A
GUIDE
TO
I DE N T I F Y
A N D
TA ST E
EXTRA VI RG I N OLIVE OI L BY MICH E L FAVUZ Z I - OLEOLOGIST
OLIVE OILS THE GUIDE
/ W RI T ER / M I C H EL FAVU ZZI / ART D I REC TO R AN D G RAP H I C DES I G N ER / C AT H ERI N E G U I L B AU LT FAVU ZZI I N T ERN AT I O N AL I N C . 6 5 DE P O RT- ROYAL W ES T M O N T REAL , Q U EB EC H 3 L 2A7 W W W. FAVU ZZI .CO M
AL L RI G H TS RES ERVED. TH E CONTE NT OF THIS MAG AZI N E M AY N OT B E REP RO DU C ED W I T H O U T P ERM I S S I O N . LEGAL DE POSIT - BIBLIOT H ÈQ U E ET ARC H I VES N AT I O N AL ES DU Q U ÉB EC , 2017, LIBRA RI ES AN D ARC H I VES C AN ADA, 2017. I S B N 97 8- 2- 98167 26 - 0 - 5
KALIKORI, KALETHEA (KALAMATA), GREECE
fundamentals
page 10
quality
page 20
tasting
page 26
oil and food pairings
page 34
Favuzzi’s selection
page 40
VILLEVIEILLE (NÎMES), FRANCE
EL BONHOMME, HELLIN (CASTILLA LA MANCHA), SPAIN
CORTES DE CIMA, VIDIGUEIRA (ALENTEJO), PORTUGAL
EL BONHOMME, HELLIN (CASTILLA LA MANCHA), SPAIN
THE OLIVE FARM, SALT SPRING ISLAND (BRITISH COLUMBIA), CANADA
GOCCIA DI SOLE AND ETICHETTA VERDE, MOLFETTA (PUGLIA), ITALY
KALIKORI, KALETHEA (KALAMATA), GREECE
INTRODUCTION
THE PRICE OF A FLAWLESS OLIVE OIL The market discourages the production and promotion of superior olive oils. In turn, this tends to standardize the product offering with oils that are sometimes flawed (oxidized, rancid, fermented, etc.), and might also have lacklustre aromatic profiles. Favuzzi is proud to present its first guide to premium olive oils. It is intended for passionate connoisseurs as much as it is for neophytes wishing to find out more about the precious nectar of this ancient fruit, whose multiple health benefits make it an unparalleled condiment!
NO QUALITY CONTROL We rely on government bodies to distinguish genuine products from counterfeit ones, but the truth is that no systematic control is carried out to guarantee the authenticity of olive oils. Retailers depend on importers, who in turn trust producers and brokers to be honest about the quality of their product. In the end, no one truly verifies the quality and authenticity of the oil on the market.
The Favuzzi family has been growing olive trees for many generations. Now established in Canada, the family imports only superior quality oils from various producers all around the world.
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TASTING BEFORE USING While cooking with olive oil is common, tasting it is not. When is the last time you tasted your oil before using it? By putting the principles of oil tasting into practice, it becomes easy to identify an oil’s quality and flaws. In Italy, the police even rely on an army of tasters who can recognize counterfeit oils without carrying out laboratory testing. While this guide does not pretend to give you this kind of expertise, it will teach you the basics on how to identify a genuine olive oil. (See the section about quality on page 20.)
THE INDUSTRY’S STRICTEST STANDARDS We selected some of the world’s best extra virgin olive oils. Of exceptional quality and characterized by superior sensory and aromatic richness, they are sourced from producers who share our values in matters of standards and integrity. (See our standards on page 23.)
FASCINATING WORLD Extra virgin olive oil boasts an extraordinary palette of aromatic profiles, resulting from the numerous olive varieties, their origin and the olive grower’s know-how. Favuzzi’s goal is to develop a culture of excellence surrounding olive oil, as in the case of cheese, wine and coffee, for instance. (See the section about tasting on page 26.)
In Mediterranean countries, the olive oil bottle is constantly in movement around the dinner table, as it is used to add flavor. With their wide range of aromas and intensities, premium oils are remarkably versatile in the kitchen. (See the section about food and oil pairings on page 34.)
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KALIKORI, KALETHEA (KALAMATA), GREECE
/ F U N DA M E N TA L S /
WHAT IS OLIVE OIL? Extra virgin olive oil is produced by mechanical cold extraction of the fruit of the olive tree. It has been the main fat in Mediterranean cooking for thousands of years. A solid body of scientific research has demonstrated its health benefits.
THE OLIVE TREE An olive tree can produce olives for hundreds of years. Some even continue to bear fruit after a thousand years. The olives harvested from a single tree yield an average of five litres of oil.
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
LIFE CYCLE OF THE OLIVE TREE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN
PRUNING / january > february /
HARVEST / october > december /
Yearly cycle of work on the olive grove
RIPENING / august > september / the fruit begins to turn colour
FLOWERING / march > april /
1ST WATERING / april /
FRUIT SET / may > july /
the fruit develops, limited watering takes place
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MAKING THE OIL
Harvesting the olives
Cleaning
Malaxing the olive paste
oil water
Centrifugation
Storing and decanting or filtering
Bottling
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
Crushing
PLANETA, MENFI (SICILY), ITALY
THE OLIVES There are 1,552 olive varieties. In Italy alone, more than 400 are cultivated. Here are the five most commonly grown varieties worldwide as well as their country of origin:
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
1. PICUAL (SPAIN) 2. FRANTOIO (ITALY) 3. ARBEQUINA (SPAIN) 4. KORONEIKI (GREECE) 5. LECCINO (ITALY)
BLENDING Just like wine, olive oil can comprise of a blend of varieties (also called cultivars). Blending allows the producer to adjust the proportions of the olive varieties used to obtain the same overall organoleptic properties from one season to the next.
Early in the season, all olives are green. They turn black only if they are left to ripen.
FIRST COLD PRESSED Thanks to modern equipment, it is now possible to extract all the oil contained in the olives on the first pressing, which means a second pressing is no longer necessary. The “first cold pressed” mention has therefore ceased to be an indication of quality. As a matter of fact, most oil producers have stopped using it on their labels.
16
SINGLE VARIETY Using a single olive variety makes it possible to appreciate the influence of geographical origin and distinctive growing conditions for that variety. For instance, two oils made with Arbequina olives could be compared, one from the Priorat region of Catalonia and the other from California’s Sonoma Valley.
WHERE DOES OLIVE OIL COME FROM?
The 10 biggest producers
SPAIN
44%
ITALY
12%
GREECE
9%
TURKEY
6%
TUNISIA
6%
SYRIA
4%
MOROCCO
4%
PORTUGAL 3%
ALGERIA
2%
ARGENTINA
1%
In % of world production based on the annual average of 2013 to 2018.
TYPES OF OLIVE OIL Extra virgin olive oil (evoo) Evoo is the highest quality of olive oil, the freshest, most flavourful and richest in antioxidants. In 1991, the International Olive Council (IOC), an international body, enacted regulation to qualitatively define extra virgin olive oil: it is an oil featuring no organoleptic defects and some degree of fruitiness. Olive oil thus became the first food in the world whose quality is formally determined, at least in part, by its sensory properties. Criteria for the eligibility of tasters, terminology defining the qualities and defects of olive oil, methods and grids for tasting, etc., were also established. The qualitative assessment is complemented by laboratory testing to measure various chemical parameters, including acidity level (which must be lower than 0.8%), peroxide value and UV absorption, which validate the oil’s freshness and authenticity.
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Virgin olive oil (voo) According to the IOC’s evaluation criteria, a virgin oil is of lower quality than an extra virgin oil. It is characterized by organoleptic defects between 0 and 3.5 and an acidity level inferior to 2%. Olive oil (oo) This oil category is also known on the market as “extra light.” It is a blend of virgin and refined oils. Refined oils are obtained through techniques such as washing, drying, odour and colour elimination, and filtering, but without using solvents, as is the case with pomace oil, for instance. During the refining process, the oil can be heated in a vacuum to 430°F (220°C) to remove any volatile compounds.
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
Olive trees can bear fruit in most temperate climates where grapevines also grow. They are found on all continents, even in Canada! In 2017 an agricultural company called The Olive Farm, located on Salt Spring Island in British Columbia, produced 32 litres of 100% Canadian olive oil from its first harvest. A truly historic innovation!
HOW TO READ A LABEL
6 2 R ÉC OLT E 2020/2021 H A RVEST LOT 2858 20XX/07
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
3
4
1
5
The only reliable way to make sure an oil is fresh and authentic is to taste it. Many specialty stores offer a sampling area. If this is not possible, the label can provide a wealth of useful indications. The level of trust you can put in an oil is generally proportional to the amount of information listed on the label.
1. COUNTRY, REGION AND TOWN OF ORIGIN
2. OLIVE VARIETIES
3. OIL INTENSITY
4. HARVEST YEAR
5. BEST BEFORE DATE
6. ACIDITY LEVEL
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CONSERVATION Unlike wine, olive oil does not improve with age. It begins to alter as soon as it is produced and can become completely oxidized in just a few months if it is not stored in ideal conditions. It needs to be consumed rapidly for its full benefits to be enjoyed. At Favuzzi, we avoid importing oil during the summer unless temperature-controlled containers are used. Our warehouses are kept cool, at an optimal temperature for oil conservation. To get the freshest oil on the market, choose one from the latest harvest, in a dark glass bottle. Avoid keeping the oil on the counter, exposed to light, and near the stove or other heat sources. Instead, store it in a cool, dry place. Close the bottle tightly after use to avoid exposing the oil to air, and consume the oil in one to three months after opening.
19
The oil can be filtered naturally, by decantation, or by using cellulose to trap all vegetal particles. A filtered oil will be clear, whereas a non-filtered oil will have a cloudy appearance and a stronger taste. In addition, vegetal residue accelerates the deterioration of non-filtered oil, which must be consumed rapidly after the harvest lest it become rancid.
HEALTH BENEFITS As the main source of fat in the Mediterranean diet, olive oil has beneficial properties attributed in part to the presence of polyphenols found in no other oil. It is known to lower the incidence of heart disease and to have a protective effect against certain types of cancer tumours as well as many degenerative and chronic diseases.
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / F U N DA M E N TA L S
FILTERED OR NON-FILTERED?
PLANETA, MENFI (SICILY), ITALY
/ QUALITY /
FAVUZZI, ELJAS (EXTREMADURA), SPAIN
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / Q U A L I T Y
WHICH COUNTRY PRODUCES THE BEST OIL? Each olive variety has unique characteristics, offering a wide aromatic palette likely to please all consumers. Excellent oils can be produced in any part of the world where olives are grown. It is therefore essential to reject claims that one country’s oils are better than another’s. In fact, we can consider each olive variety as “innocent”: the quality of the oil is determined by the producer’s know-how. That is why we must focus our attention on producers as a starting point.
EXTRA VIRGIN? SO WHAT? At Favuzzi, we believe the standards of the International Olive Council (IOC) are so flexible that they create a wide disparity in the quality and offering of “extra virgin oils.” In front of a store display filled with oils of highly varied prices, consumers can’t help but be confused. Even though the IOC’s standards rank them in the same extra virgin category, these oils are very different in terms of the ripeness of the olives used, their freshness, their aromatic complexity, their origin, their antioxidant (polyphenol) content and their resistance to frying temperatures.
22
We believe the time has come for the IOC to rethink the criteria that define an “extra virgin” olive oil. A more rigorous categorization would help consumers better understand why some oils are more expensive than others and to make their choice in full knowledge of such facts. In order to help Canadian consumers, Favuzzi defined its own criteria to select the superior quality oils imported into Canada.
FAVUZZI’S STANDARDS
• free acidity, • peroxide value and • UV light absorbency. These parameters provide indications regarding the inadequate handling of the fruit before and during pressing and show the oil’s oxidation level at the time of bottling.
The following chart compares the IOC’s extra virgin olive oil standards to those set by Favuzzi to choose the oils the company imports. More restrictive than the IOC’s, our criteria allow us to offer oils with interesting, complex aromatic notes. They are also fresher and richer in antioxidants and will keep longer.
PARTICIPATION IN
MAJOR INTERNATIONAL
COMPETITIONS AND
AWARDS WON
CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT
OF PROCESSES TO SUPPORT A
CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT
OF QUALITY
CONTINUOUS OPTIMIZATION
OF PRODUCTION ALIGNED
WITH AN ECOFRIENDLY
ORIENTATION
VS FAVUZZI STANDARDS
ANALYSIS CRITERIA
IOC STANDARDS
FREE ACIDITY % m/m of oleic acid
≤ 0.80
≤ 0.30
PEROXIDE VALUE in oxygen milliequivalent per kg of oil
≤ 20
≤ 7.5
K 232
≤ 2.50
≤ 1.85
K 268
≤ 0.22
≤ 0.17
SENSORY DEFECTS
NONE
NONE
UV ABSORBENCY
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / Q U A L I T Y
THE BASIC ANALYSIS CRITERIA FOR OLIVE OIL ARE:
In addition to analytic and organoleptic criteria, Favuzzi relies on other factors to select producers, including:
mg/kg
$$$
1000 410 180 EVOO FROM GREEN OLIVES
polyphenols
8-15 kg/litre
aromatic intensity
/ olive oil price / Evoo from green olives has a high polyphenol content
aromatic intensity
/ olive oil price / Evoo from ripe olives has a low polyphenol content
mg/kg 1000
$$$
410 180 EVOO FROM RIPE OLIVES
4-8 kg/litre
polyphenols
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / Q U A L I T Y
POLYPHENOLS Many scientific studies on the Mediterranean diet suggest that the polyphenols in olive oil have several health benefits. Polyphenols absorb free radicals and can help fight cardiovascular disease and some cancers. They also have anti-inflammatory properties. The polyphenol concentration in an oil correlates directly with its freshness
FREE ACIDITY VALUES Free acidity values give some insight as to how the fruit was handled during the harvest and the transfer to the mill, as well as the time between picking and pressing. Free acidity is also an early indicator of the oil’s potential longevity. Superior quality oils are produced from olives preserved in optimal conditions until they arrive at the mill or pressed rapidly after the harvest. Such oils have very low acidity.
and its taste, and makes the oil more intensely bitter and pungent. It can also influence the oil’s aromatic intensity: delicate, moderate or intense. The polyphenol content, calculated in mg/kg, depends on a variety of factors: olive variety and ripeness, weather conditions and agricultural practices.
Intensely aromatic olive oils tend to have a polyphenol content greater than 410 mg/kg, while delicate oils have less than 180 mg/kg. Favuzzi favours oil with a high polyphenol concentration. Oil from some olive varieties, such as the Coratina found in our Favuzzi Intense finishing oil selection, are known to have polyphenol levels of up to 1,200 mg/kg!
PEROXIDE VALUE Peroxides are generated by the oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids present in the oil. They accumulate slowly and inevitably make the oil rancid. The likelihood that peroxides will form increases during storage. The onset of this deterioration process can be delayed by a year or two in a quality, antioxidant-rich olive oil. The peroxide value indicates the early stages of oxidation.
24
UV ABSORBENCY UV absorbency tests measure UV light absorption by the oil at various specific wavelengths. Absorbency at K232 nm (nanometres), K270 nm and Delta (∆) K2 correlates with the state of oxidation, since it detects specific oxidized compounds. It is also a potential indication that the product was falsified with refined oils.
THE RIPENING CYCLE OF THE OLIVE
Extra virgin olive oil is a commodity traded on European stock markets. Large industrial brands purchase various lots of oil at the lowest price, in one or several countries, and blend them to achieve economies of scale. The olive varieties used and their exact origins are not usually indicated on the labels. These lots of blended oils normally comply with the standards of the International Olive Council (IOC) and can even be organic. To offer their oils at a competitive price, industrial brands typically prefer olives harvested when fully ripe, yielding a greater volume. However, these oils have a lower polyphenol content, lose their freshness more quickly, and can have organoleptic flaws.
OLIVE VARIETIES WITH HIGH POLYPHENOL LEVELS: Since polyphenol levels naturally decrease as the olives ripen, the date of harvest influences the oil’s polyphenol content. Green olives picked early in the season yield less oil, but this oil will be intensely fruity, with a characteristic bitter finish, and will contain more antioxidants. Ripe olives yield a greater volume of oil, with more delicate fruity aromas and a lower concentration of antioxidants. This oil is also cheaper. In short, by paying less, we also get lower quality for the money.
CORATINA
/ Italy /
KORONEIKI
/ Greece /
CORNICABRA
/ Spain /
MORAIOLO
/ Italy /
A superior quality oil produced with early harvested and green olives is generally sold between $30 and $60 a litre. Just like wine, several factors influence the price of a bottle of oil. The greater the volume produced and the greater the automation, the lower the cost. However, the volume imported, the number of intermediates and the originality of packaging (look at that nice bottle!) will increase retail price considerably even though they have no bearing on quality.
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / Q U A L I T Y
PLANETA, MENFI (SICILY), ITALY
THE PRICE
/ TA S T I N G /
HOW TO RECOGNIZE A GOOD OLIVE OIL
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
Pungency is a sensation felt in the throat, similar to the effect of a hot pepper, which may induce coughing.
A good oil evokes freshness: it smells and tastes crisp and green. It is bitter, pungent and harmonious all at once.
Bitterness is present in dark chocolate and craft beer, and a seasoned taster will appreciate it in a quality olive oil as well. Bitterness is created by healthy olives grown in optimal conditions. It is neat, pleasant and elegant, even when very strong.
mg/kg 1000 500 250
polyphenols
A superior oil does not leave a greasy sensation on the lips or the palate; that would be a sign of oxidation.
The oil’s aromatic intensity, described as delicate, moderate or intense, refers to the persistence of the taste in the mouth and is independent of bitterness and pungency.
Bitterness is felt on the sides of the tongue.
There is an undeniable correlation between the intensity of bitterness and pungency and an oil’s polyphenol concentration. In other words, the more an oil is bitter and pungent, the better it is for your health.
INTENSE MODERATE DELICATE aromatic intensity
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VOCABULARY AND REFERENCES USED FOR THE DESCRIPTIVE ANALYSIS OF OLIVE OIL / aromatic notes /
GREEN APPLE Granny Smith apple aroma
EXOTIC FRUIT pineapple, guava, lychee, mango aroma
GREEN FRUIT unripe fruit (green olive, banana, apple)
ARTICHOKE artichoke aroma
VANILLA vanilla aroma GREEN TOMATO green tomato aroma
TEA green tea aroma RIPE TOMATO ripe tomato or vine tomato aroma NUT almond, pecan, etc.
GRASS freshly cut grass BUTTER butter aroma
RIPE FRUIT ripe fruit (olive, banana, apple, berry)
GREEN ALMOND aroma of a fresh, slightly gelatinous almond
FINE HERBS fresh fine herbs (rosemary, basil, oregano)
MINT mint or eucalyptus aroma
ASTRINGENT dry feeling in the mouth
VISCOSITY runny or thick
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
CITRUS lemon or orange aroma
FLOWERS flower aroma
HOW TO IDENTIFY A BAD OIL
earthy
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
An oil made with unhealthy fruit will taste mouldy, damp or earthy. This happens when the olives are altered by mould and yeast after being stored in damp conditions for several days, or when soil and mud residue is not rinsed off after the harvest. Any negligence during one of the production steps can affect taste. The quality of the olives at harvest, transportation and storage before pressing, washing, kneading time and temperature, extraction, bottling, shipping, and finally, storage by the importer and retailer, are all factors that can enhance or lessen flavours.
During blind taste tests, most people prefer rancid or fusty oils to quality oils. This incoherence is explained by the fact that when we consume a defective product for years, we become used to it and believe it has the desired taste. We even come to find it good!
The oil should not necessarily taste like ripe olives, the same way wine does not taste like grapes. In fact, a black olive tapenade taste is a sign that the oil is fusty (fermented). A fusty oil was produced with olives in an advanced state of anaerobic fermentation or has been in contact with olive paste residue left on the inner surface of the equipment.
An aftertaste of rancid nuts, lead pencil, paraffin, modelling clay or old peanut butter indicates that the oil is rancid. Rancid oil is the result of advanced oxidation caused by prolonged exposition to light, air or heat.
30
Winey or vinegary are descriptions used for an oil in an advanced state of fermentation, caused by acetic bacteria which develop when the olives are stored for a prolonged period before pressing.
If the olive paste is kneaded for too long at a high temperature, the oil will tend to have an overcooked taste, reminiscent of caramel.
HOW TO TASTE THE OIL
At home, a large spoon or a wine glass can be used. Pour a small quantity of olive oil (one tablespoon, or 15 ml, is sufficient) into the glass. Place one hand on top of the glass to retain the aromas while warming the base of the glass with your other hand.
31
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
Professional tasters use tulip-shaped glasses with a blue tint, so they are not influenced by the oil’s colour. Indeed, colour is not an indication of quality. The oil is kept at a temperature of 28°C to improve the perception of aromas.
/ 1st step /
OLFACTORY TEST
INTENSE MODERATE
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
DELICATE
When you breathe into the tasting glass, oils with intense aromatic profiles are detected near the top of the glass, whereas oils with delicate aromas are generally detected near the bottom.
Turn the glass in your hand for a few seconds to warm the oil and help it release its fragrance. Take a few deep slow breaths to identify the oil’s aromas and intensity.
If the aromas evoke freshness and the oil does not seem to have negative characteristics, then it is good.
Take a moment to reflect after each breath in.
Now, try to identify its aromatic notes.
Rid your nose of residual smells by sniffing your forearm before each inhale.
Does the oil smell like tapenade, rancid nuts, dampness, vinegar, etc.? If so, it is defective. Usually, during a professional tasting, a defective oil is disqualified after the olfactory test and no taste test occurs.
32
/ 2nd step /
TASTE TEST
BITTERNESS 1-2-3 Define a mental scale and rate each of the olive oil’s three main attributes (bitterness, pungency, aromatic intensity). Then, determine if the oil is in fact delicate, moderate or intense.
PUNGENCY 1-2-3
INTENSITY
(persistence in the mouth)
1-2-3-4-5-6
DELICATE
To taste the oil, swirl a small quantity around your mouth while inhaling air and exhaling through the nose to enhance the perception of aromas in retro-olfaction. The first sensation is bitterness, followed by pungency. The oil’s aromatic intensity is identified last, depending on persistence in the mouth.
Are all the oil’s characteristics in harmony with each other? Note that intense bitterness or a persistent piquant finish are not signs of an unbalanced oil. An oil has an unbalanced taste when some of the aromas dominate all the other flavours.
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1-2
MODERATE
3-4
INTENSE
5-6
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / TA S T I N G
Avoid eating, drinking or smoking before tasting an olive oil. If you try more than one oil, bite into a Granny Smith apple between each tasting to clear your palate.
ISTOCKPHOTO
/ O I L A N D F O O D PA I R I N G S /
Besides salt, there are very few condiments as useful as olive oil in the kitchen. Thanks to their wide palette of aromas and intensities, premium olive oils are remarkably versatile, as evidenced by their range of uses in Mediterranean cuisine.
THE BASIC RULE
The oil serves to both enhance and harmonize the flavour of dishes.
/ AN OIL WITH INTENSE AROMAS PAIRS WITH BOLDLY FLAVOURED DISHES WHILE AN OIL WITH DELICATE AROMAS PAIRS WITH SUBTLY FLAVOURED DISHES /
[white fish + lemon]
[hearty soup]
OLIVE OIL WITH DELICATE AROMAS
OLIVE OIL WITH INTENSE AROMAS
COMPLEMENTARY PAIRINGS In complementary pairings, a marriage between opposite flavours creates balance. Surprising and delicious pairings can be created by matching seemingly incompatible tastes.
[vanilla ice cream]
[goat cheese]
OLIVE OIL WITH HERBAL NOTES
OLIVE OIL WITH TROPICAL FRUIT NOTES
37
Olive oil has a high smoke point of about 210°C, considerably higher than the ideal temperature for frying food (around 180°C). If it is not heated excessively, olive oil undergoes no significant structural alteration and maintains the properties derived from its antioxidant content and richness better than other oils. Olive oil has another advantage: by forming a layer on the surface of food items, it prevents excessive oil penetration and enhances taste. Food fried in olive oil has a lower fat content than food fried in other types of oil. Olive oil is therefore the most appropriate, the lightest and the tastiest for frying. It can also be more economical, since it can be reused a greater number of times than other oils. In addition, its volume increases when heated, so a lesser amount is needed to cook and fry food.
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / O I L A N D F O O D PA I R I N G S
FRYING
AROMAS
DELICATE
OIL & FOODS PAIRINGS
V I SI T FAV UZ Z I.CO M TO D I SCOV E R THE S TO RY A N D C HA R ACTE R IS TIC S B E HI N D T HE OLIV E O ILS W E I M P O RT F RO M SO ME O F T HE BE ST A RTISA NS I N T HE WO R L D.
MERULA
VILLEVIEILLE
FAVUZZI DELICATE
AROMAS
MODERATE
OLI
EL BONHOMME
MARQUÉS DE VALDUEZA
KALIKORI
CORTES DE CIMA
FAVUZZI MODERATE
ETICHETTA VERDE
GOCCIA DI SOLE
RINCÓN DE LA SUBBÉTICA
FAVUZZI INTENSE
AROMAS
INTENSE
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / O I L A N D F O O D PA I R I N G S
TEANUM
PLANETA
THE BASIC RULE AN OIL WITH INTENSE AROMAS PAIRS WITH BOLDLY FLAVOURED DISHES WHILE AN OIL WITH DELICATE AROMAS PAIRS WITH SUBTLY FLAVOURED DISHES. Pay attention to seasonings: their aromatic intensity will also influence the intensity of the oil used to bring out the flavours and harmonies in your dishes.
SALADS mild tasting leaves: lettuce, romaine, spinach, kale, escarole, chicory, iceberg VEGETABLES turnip, mashed potatoes PASTA plain, stuffed, cream and mushroom sauce FISH sole, cod, turbot, halibut, haddock, tilapia, bass, shrimp, seashells, sashimi MEAT carpaccio CHEESE goat, brie, mozzarella, ricotta, bocconcini, mascarpone DESSERTS pastries, fruit salad
SALADS strong tasting leaves: endive, arugula VEGETABLES squash, carrots, zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, mushrooms [cremini, chanterelle] PASTA seafood, basil pesto, rosé sauce FISH flavourful or grilled: tuna, salmon, swordfish, sardines MEAT poultry, pork scaloppini CHEESE parmesan, emmental, gruyère, cheddar DESSERTS dark chocolate OTHER risotto, lobster, fine herbs [rosemary, oregano, thyme, sage, lavender, basil, mint, coriander] SALADS tomato, Greek, Sicilian or mixed: lardoons, mushrooms, garlic, shallots VEGETABLES tomatoes, bell peppers, beans, mushrooms [shiitake, porcini], zucchini, eggplant, onion, garlic PASTA meat or tomato sauce: regular or spicy, dried tomato pesto FISH marinated, tartare, shellfish MEAT stewed, braised or grilled [beef, lamb] CHEESE parmigiano reggiano, grana padano, asiago, ricotta salata, pecorino, roquefort, taleggio, gorgonzola, blue DESSERTS vanilla ice cream OTHER pizza, peppers [ancho, Aleppo, chipotle, chili]
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / O I L A N D F O O D PA I R I N G S
OTHER avocado, apple, shellfish [oysters, clams, crab]
MIGUEL CARRASCO LAJAS, OLIVE GROWER (FAVUZZI)
MIGUEL CARRASCO
THE ARTISAN AND AWARD-WINNING PRODUCER BEHIND THE FAVUZZI DELICATE AND MODERATE OLIVE OILS
C HA RT L EG E N D
MAIN ATTRIBUTES
INTENSITY DELICATE MODERATE INTENSE
BITTERNESS
••• 1
2
CARACTERISTICS
AROMATIC NOTES
COMPOSITION: % OF THE OLIVE VARIETALS
HARVEST PERIOD
ALTITUDE OF THE OLIVE TREES
NUMBER OF OLIVE TREES
3
PUNGENT
••• 1
2
3
ANNUAL PRODUCTION
MILL ADOPTING ECO-FRIENDLY PRACTICES
42
OIL WITH ORGANIC OR BIODYNAMIC CERTIFICATION
ACIDITY PEROXIDES POLYPHENOLS MAIN CHEMICAL PARAMETERS
KALIKORI, KALETHEA (KALAMATA), GREECE
FAVU ZZI D E L I C AT E
- Chef -
DELICATE INTENSITY
•••• ••
BITTERNESS PUNGENT
Aromatic notes /
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / FAV U Z Z I S E L E C T I O N
RIPE FRUIT
RIPE TOMATOE
GREEN ALMOND
100% MANZANILLA CACEREÑA
We created this oil with delicate aromas at the request of chefs who wanted a less bitter, less pungent oil to use in their subtly flavoured dishes. To achieve this, we picked the olives later in the season, starting in the second half of November, just as they began to turn colour and become riper. Determining the maximum ripeness level to comply with Favuzzi’s strict organoleptic and chemical standards is quite the balancing act. Fortunately, just like our moderate oil, our delicate oil is produced under the supervision of one of Spain’s best olive growers, Miguel Carrasco. Miguel ensures the finished product is a superior quality oil, as confirmed by exhaustive analysis reports from a third-party laboratory. Our delicate oil features pleasant banana, almond and ripe tomato aromatic notes. Available in 2-litre size only.
MID-NOVEMBER EARLY DECEMBER
44
600 TO 700 M
30,000 OLIVE TREES
65,000 L
ECO-FRIENDLY
ACIDITY 0.19 % / 0.80 % PEROXIDES 2.5 / 20 POLYPHENOLS > 500
FAVU ZZI MO D E R ATE - Everyday -
MODERATE INTENSITY
•• ••• ••• ••
BITTERNESS PUNGENT 100% MANZANILLA CACEREÑA
MID-OCTOBER MID-NOVEMBER
RIPE FRUIT
RIPE TOMATOE
GREEN ALMOND
Inaugurated in 2008, the mill is located in the heart of the gorgeous Sierra de Gata natural reserve, in northwestern Spain. This ecofriendly mill, one of Spain’s most technologically advanced, is on a mission to make the best possible olive oil with a zero-carbon footprint. Produced by olive grower Miguel Carrasco Lajas, our oil is of superior quality and rich in polyphenols, but remains affordable enough to be used without moderation. It is a balanced oil with ripe tomato, green almond and ripe and green fruit notes. Thanks to its pleasant bitterness and pungency as well as its moderate persistence, it is highly versatile in the kitchen.
45
600 M
37,700 OLIVE TREES
70,000 L
ECO-FRIENDLY
ACIDITY 0.13 % / 0.80 % PEROXIDES 3.2 / 20 POLYPHENOLS > 500
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / FAV U Z Z I S E L E C T I O N
Aromatic notes /
FAVU ZZI IN T E N S E
- Finishing -
INTENSE INTENSITY
••• •••
BITTERNESS PUNGENT
FAV U Z Z I .C O M / O L I V E O I L G U I D E / FAV U Z Z I S E L E C T I O N
Aromatic notes /
CHICORY
FLORAL
ROSEMARY
ALMOND
ARTICHOKE
This oil with intense aromatic notes was designed to use as a finishing touch and pairs especially well with boldly flavoured dishes. It features herb, artichoke and chicory aromatic notes, enhanced with rosemary and almond. It is made near the Adriatic coast, in the town of Andria, Puglia, the same region where the Favuzzi family has its roots. Combining the Guglielmi family’s experience with the most advanced technology available to extract the oil within a few hours of harvesting guarantees a quality oil of the utmost freshness. Coratina olives are picked very early in the season, while they are still green. Although they yield a lower volume of oil, they have rich organoleptic properties and a high polyphenol content. In fact, the Coratina reigns supreme amongst the world’s olive varieties with the highest polyphenol concentration.
46
100% CORATINA
EARLY OCTOBER
150 M
10,000 OLIVE TREES
150,000 L ACIDITY 0.14 % / 0.80 % PEROXIDES 5.36 / 20 POLYPHENOLS > 500
TABLE OF CONTENTS M I C H E L FAV U Z Z I
/ OLEOGIST /
FUNDAMENTALS What is olive oil? ................................................. 12 The olive tree ...................................................... 12 Life cycle of the Mediterranean olive tree .......... 12 Production ........................................................... 13 The olives ............................................................ 16 First cold pressed ................................................ 16 Blending .............................................................. 16 Monocultivar ....................................................... 16 Where does olive oil come from? ....................... 17 Types of olive oil ................................................. 17 How to read a label ............................................. 18 Conservation ....................................................... 19 Filtered or non-filtered? ...................................... 19 Health benefits .................................................... 19 QUALITY
A must-have ingredient with exceptional properties, olive oil has been used for thousands of years to enhance the flavours in cuisines from countries of the Mediterranean basin. Recent technological advances have completely transformed the offering and quality of the oils available on the market today. In this world of remarkable aromas, the expertise of master producers brings out the best in over 1,500 varieties of cultivars and numerous terroirs from various areas around the world. Michel Favuzzi, olive oil expert certified by New York’s International Culinary Center, is also an educator, conference speaker, importer, and the founder of Favuzzi International. For nearly 20 years, he has been working to give a place of choice in Canada to olive oils and fine foods from the world’s best artisans.
Which country makes the best oil? ............................... 22 Extra virgin? So what? ............................... ..................... 22 Favuzzi’s standards .................................... ..................... 23 Polyphenols ..................................................................... 24 Free acidity ...................................................................... 24 Peroxide value ................................................................. 24 UV absorbency ............................................................... 24 Price .................................................................................. 25 TASTING How to recognize a good olive oil ................................ 28 How to identify a bad oil ................................................ 30 How to taste the oil ........................................................ 31 Olfactory test .................................................................. 32 Taste test .......................................................................... 33 OIL AND FOOD PAIRING S The basic rule .................................................................. 37 Complementary pairings ............................................... 37 Frying ............................................................................... 37 Oil and food pairings ..................................................... 38 FAV UZZI’ S SELECTION Favuzzi Delicate (Chef) evoo ...................................... 44 Favuzzi Moderate (Everyday) evoo ............................ 45 Favuzzi Intense (Finishing) evoo ................................. 46
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