Clothing Repair for Beginners

CLOTHING REPAIR For Beginners

CONTENTS 1 2-9 10-15 16-17 18-20 21-23 24-26 27 28 29

Who Are We? Introduction: Essential Tools and Hand Stitches Section 1: Patching Holes Section 2: Fixing Torn Seams Section 3: Fixing Unravelling Hems Section 4: Mending Faulty Zippers Section 5: Fixing Overstretched Elastic Waistbands Caring for Your Clothes: Tips and Guidelines Thank you References

WHO ARE WE?

We are a group of passionate volunteers campaigning for a clean, safe and fair fashion industry. Together with Fashion Revolution Singapore and Secondsguru, we would like to help individuals embrace sustainability in their fashion choices by equipping them with the relevant skills to mend and repair their clothings which could otherwise end up in the trash. In doing so, we reduce textile pollution, water use and carbon emissions.

Do your part with us today!

Credits to partners:

1

INTRODUCTION:

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

1. Needle 2. Thread 3. Scissors 4. Seam ripper 5. Elastic waistband (to fix overstretched waistbands) 6. Safety pins (to fix overstretched waistbands) 7. Long-nose pliers (to mend faulty zippers)

2

INTRODUCTION:

HOW TO THREAD A NEEDLE Pull out about an arm's length of thread.

Cut the thread on an angle so it's easier to thread the needle.

Image credit to: Nina Montenegro

3a. For single thread stitching, pull the thread about 1/3 of its length through the needle and knot only the long end of the thread.

3b. For double thread stitching , align the two thread ends and knot both ends together.

Note: A double thread is stronger but makes more visible stitches.

A single thread is useful when you'd like nearly invisible stitches or when the thread is already bulky and strong enough as a single strand.

3

INTRODUCTION:

HOW TO TIE AN OVERHAND KNOT A knot at the end of your thread keeps the stitches from coming undone.

Loop the short tail end of the thread over the longer side.

The shape should look like a pretzel!

Tug on both ends of the thread to pull the knot small and tight.

Image credit to: Nina Montenegro

Bring the tail end through the loop.

As you are tightening the knot, position it at a desired point on the thread.

Repeat steps 1- 3 to make a second knot. Go slow so you can position the second knot on the first knot.

4

INTRODUCTION:

KNOW YOUR BASIC STITCHES These are the stitches we use for hand mending, and they are the most essential simple stitches you need to know for most hand-sewing projects.

forward

RUNNING STITCH

Image credit to: Nina Montenegro and https://hopeandhart.com/

1. Bring the needle upwards through the fabric, 2. Make a stitch forward and downwards by putting the needle through the fabric a short distance away.

3. Bring your needle back up, the same distance as the first stitch.

4. Continue weaving your needle in and out of the fabric to create dashed line of even stitches.

5

INTRODUCTION:

KNOW YOUR BASIC STITCHES These are the stitches we use for hand mending and they are the most essential simple stitches you need to know for most hand-sewing projects.

BACK STITCH

Push the needle up through the underside of the fabric.

Stitch backwards from top -push the needle down through the fabric to the right.

*

* Stitch backwards from top -push the needle down through the fabric to the right (at the *).

Stitch forward from below - push the needle up through the underside of the fabric about 1/4 inch forward.

Stitch forward from below- push the needle up through the underside of the fabric about 1/4 inch forward.

Stitch backwards from top -push the needle down through the fabric to the right (at the *).

Repeat step 3-5 until you're happy.

Finish the end stitch (refer to page10).

6

INTRODUCTION:

KNOW YOUR BASIC STITCHES These are the stitches we use for hand mending, and they are the most essential simple stitches you need to know for most hand-sewing projects.

WHIP STITCH

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE This stitch is commonly used to sew hems of clothing.

1. Fold the cloth at the edge of the inner end of the hem.

2. Needle through the two folds.

3. Needle again beside the first stitch.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the hem is sewn.

5. Tie a knot at the end of the stitch 6. The right side of the clothing will only show small lines, which will be invisible when the same coloured thread is used.

7

INTRODUCTION:

KNOW YOUR BASIC STITCHES These are the stitches we use for hand mending, and they are the most essential simple stitches you need to know for most hand-sewing projects.

CATCH STITCH

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE This stitch is commonly used to sew hems of clothing.

1. With a single threaded needle, catch a little of the folded piece from the inside to hide the knot.

2. Needle through the main cloth piece, towards the right of the first stitch.

Take a little of the main cloth piece from right to left.

3. Needle through a little bit of the folded piece only, without the lower main cloth, towards the right of the previous stitch, from right to left.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the hem is complete.

5. Do not pull the thread too tightly as it will cause a crumpled effect.

6. With the thread the same colour as the cloth, the finished hem will look invisible.

8

INTRODUCTION:

STITCH TO FINISH SEWING When you have come to the end of your sewing, you will need to tie off before the thread gets too short (when you have about 5 inches of thread remaining).

1

1. Sew one stitch in place.

(Note that the illustration demonstrates a right-toleft sewing direction.)

3

3. Sew a third stitch right on top of the first two, but before pulling the thread taut, push the needle through the loop in the thread. Pull the thread taut, locking the thread in place.

Image credit to: Nina Montenegro

2

2. Sew a second stitch right on top of the first.

4

4. Finally, push the needle through to the underside of the project and cute and excess thread.

9

SECTION 1 Patching Holes Recipe 1: Repair by Ladder Stitch Recipe 2: Patching pinhead holes

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 1: Repair by Ladder Stitch 10 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: NEEDLE, THREAD, SCISSORS

Place the clothing right side

Starting from one end, insert the needle

up.

towards the inside of the clothing near the seam. Pull the needle through.

Insert needle on the other side directly across from where the thread has come out. The thread should be perpendicular to the seam.

10

Alternate right and left stitches to form your way up the "ladder", pulling the thread gently as you move up to gradually close the two sides.

Once you have reached the other end, insert the needle through the clothing.

11

Secure the thread by

Done!

stitching a secure stitch on the fabric in the seam.

12

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 2: Patching pinhead holes 10 MIN

MEDIUM

Thread needle with matching

MATERIALS: NEEDLE, THREAD, SCISSORS

Place the clothing right side up.

color thread as the clothing.

Insert the needle towards the

Insert the needle at the adjacent

inside of the clothing on one side

side of the hole, taking as little

of the hole. Pull the needle

thread from the clothing as possible.

through.

Pull the needle through.

13

Repeat step 4 until the hole is closed.

Smoothen out the end of the stitched area by sewing a few more stitches to slowly close the gap and level out the "bump".

14

Do the same to the other end too.

Once completed, insert the needle through the clothing. Secure the

Done!

thread on the underside with a knot.

15

SECTION 2 Fixing Torn Seams Recipe 1: Repair by Ladder Stitch

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 1: Repair by Ladder Stitch 10 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: NEEDLE, THREAD, SCISSORS

Hold the cloth right side up.

Do the ladder stitch all the

Insert the needle on end of

way up the tear, till the

the tear, upwards.

end.

Pull the thread through at the end to close the gap between the two cloths. This will cause the stitch to ‘disappear’ between the seams.

16

Insert the needle at the top of the

Cut the end of the thread.

stitch and twist the thread around it 3-5 times. Then, pull the thread to form a tight knot.

This is how the stitch should look on

Done!

the underside of the clothing.

17

SECTION 3 Fixing Unravelling Hems Recipe 1: Repair by Catch Stitch Recipe 2: Repair by adhesive fusing tape Recipe 3: Repair by fabric glue

Recipe 1: Repair by Catch Stitch 10 MIN

MEDIUM

MATERIALS: NEEDLE, THREAD, SCISSORS

Insert the needle on the underside

Needle diagonally below to the

of the folded hem (inner) and pull

right of the 1st stitch.

thread

Needle through a small bit of cloth on

Repeat until all hem is sewn. then,

the top folded hem and pull through.

knot twise to secure stitch.

18

Recipe 2: Repair by adhesive fusing tape 5 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: ADHESIVE FUSING TAPE, IRON

Your hem needs fixing and you don’t have time to sew it? The following method will fix it in a jiff.

Uses: No sew pillow cases, double backing ribbons, curtains, cloths, fabric, clothing, etc.

Benefits: Fabric fusible tape is lightweight, strong, long-lasting and easy to use.

Hem holds well even after several washes.

Directions: Place a suitable position of the adhesive fusing tape between 2 pieces of fabrics, then iron on the fabrics. Done!

19

Recipe 3: Repair by fabric glue 5 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: FABRIC GLUE

Your hem needs fixing and you don’t have time to sew it? The following method will fix it in a jiff.

Uses: For any type of fabric including but not limited to cloth, linen, denim, felt, suede, leather, cotton, polyester, flannel, silk, synthetic and nylon Benefits: Fast drying, non toxic. After fully cured, the glue will become clear in color and remain soft and flexible. Waterproof and can withstand high and low temperatures.

Directions: Simply apply a thin layer of glue to one side of the fabric and attach to the other piece of fabric. Press for 30 seconds. Done!

20

SECTION 4 Mending Faulty Zippers Recipe 1: Fixing slider that comes off track Recipe 2 : Fixing zipper that doesn't close

SECTION 4:

MENDING FAULTY ZIPPERS

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 1: Fixing slider that comes off track 10 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: SCISSORS, NEEDLE, THREAD

Top Tape End Make a snip to the

Slider Zipper Chain Bottom Tape End

Bottom Stop

side of the zipper chain that the slider has detached from, at the bottom tape end.

Feed the cut end of the zipper chain into the slider, like with a coat. Move the slider up to close the chain.

21

SECTION 4:

MENDING FAULTY ZIPPERS

Stitch the chain together with thread around the snip to prevent the slider from coming off.

Done!

22

SECTION 4:

MENDING FAULTY ZIPPERS

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 2: Fixing zipper that doesn't close 5 MIN

EASY

MATERIALS: SMALL LONG-NOSE PLIERS

Using a pair of pliers, gently pinch the left and right plate of the slider together to help restore the slider to its original, tighter shape.

Note: Do it gently and slowly to avoid tightening the slider too much.

Done!

23

SECTION 5 Fixing Overstretched Elastic Waistbands Recipe 1: Insert new elastic waistband

SECTION 5:

FIXING OVERSTRETCHED ELASTIC WAISTBANDS

VIEW VIDEO TUTORIAL HERE

Recipe 1: Insert new elastic waistband 15 MIN

MEDIUM

MATERIALS: NEEDLE, THREAD, SCISSORS, SEAM REAPER, SAFETY PIN, ELASTIC WAISTBAND

Using a seam ripper or scissors, remove the stitches at the front or back seam to open the elastic casing.

Attach a safety pin on one end of the new elastic band.

Note: The width of the elastic band should be smaller than the elastic casing, while the length of the elastic band will be the waist measurement.

24

SECTION 5:

FIXING OVERSTRETCHED ELASTIC WAISTBANDS

Use a safety pin to secure the other end

Insert the safety pin with the

of the elastic band to the garment near

elastic band attached into the

the opening to ensure it stays outside the

opening.

garment and not go into the casing.

Begin pushing the safety pin through the casing, making sure it does not twist. Note: There may be stitches at the back and/or side seam as you move along. Remove the stitches to continue.

25

SECTION 5:

FIXING OVERSTRETCHED ELASTIC WAISTBANDS

When the safety pin and elastic band come out on the other side of the opening, overlap the two ends of the elastic band and stitch them together.

Sew to close the opening(s) of

Done!

the elastic casing.

26

CARING FOR YOUR CLOTHES:

TIPS AND GUIDELINES READ WASH CARE LABELS It is very important to read the fabric care label on all your clothes. If the wash care label suggests a cold water wash or dry clean only, it is essential to follow those instructions. Doing so helps preserve these garments.

Find out more about labels here

ALWAYS SORT LAUNDRY Sort between white, dark and colored laundry to protect your clothes from colour transferring, getting pulled due to metal zippers and so on. If you don’t sort your laundry, it could also damage those delicate items you would like to protect.

Credits: The Spruce / Leticia Almeida

WASH CLOTHES INSIDE OUT Garments like denims or jackets should be washed inside out to keep their colour from fading. It is also important to wash them separately as they can cause abrasion inside the machine and can damage other materials.

AVOID IRONING ON STAINS Before ironing, check the garment for stains.

Ironing on stains can cause it to spread further.

It then gets difficult to clean. Thus, always re-wash the stained spot before ironing.

Content credits: www.getsetclean.in

27

Credits to: Mending Life by Nina Montenegro

'Consider every garment you’ve ever owned; consider where it is now. Consider a garment you loved that you let go of along the way, deeming it irreparable. Now imagine hands open in front of you, offering you that garment, revived and ready to wrap around your body once again, ready to keep you warm, beautiful and alive.'

- Nina Montenegro

Thank you 28

REFERENCES: 1. Mending Life, A Handbook for Mending Clothes and Hearts by Nina Montenegro and Sonya Montenegro 2. Beginner's Guide to Sewing Magazine (author not cited from source) 3. Laundry 101- Sorting Clothing Steps 1-6 from The Spruce website by Leticia Almeida https://www.thespruce.com/laundry-101-sortingclothing-1900125 4. Clothing care by www.getsetclean.in 5. Knowledge shared by Adel Ng from Muta wear

29