Larrimor's

Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2013

SPRING 2013 FASHION:

SHADES OF BLUE THE NEW RULES OF BUSINESS CASUAL COLOR CUES

Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance Our promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics.

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LARRIMOR’S 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 The Galleria, Mt. Lebanon 412-344-5727 Larrimors.com

FEATURES 20 24 28 58 62

Toast a Friend Raising the Barre The Fabric of a Family Music: Rodgers & Hammerstein Revisited On the Frontline

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

FASHION 8 32 34 36 48

First Rate Fashion Profile: Magnanni Footwear Style: Color Cues 6 New Rules for Business Casual 26 Shades of Blue

DEPARTMENTS 18 30 66 68

Ask Lisa Ask Forum Spirits: Bespoke Booze End Page: Turning Back Time

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

SPRING/SUMMER 2013

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ALWAYS BE A FIRST RATE VERSION OF YOURSELF AND NOT A SECOND RATE VERSION OF SOMEONE ELSE. —Judy Garland

BY LISA SLESINGER

E

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNA TOTOLICI

buyers head to market in search

the vertically challenged (read, short) by limiting my prints to

of clothes that you will want to wear. Fashion

a bold floral shirt (Georg Roth), great scarves (Etro), and

editors and bloggers head to the fashion

statement jewelry (Alexis Bittar). Abstract black and white

shows in search of clothes that you will want to

prints are sophisticated and fresh—see our Lafayette 148

look at, but not necessarily, want to wear. Buy-

New York looks for some ideas. Ladylike polish from St.

ers, editors and bloggers do have a great deal in common.

John and Giorgio Armani offer finesse and elegance seven

We are all inspired by color, texture, cut, drape, details of

days a week.

VERY SEASON,

every kind. When you are in this industry long enough, you

Great lightweight sweaters and dresses, from Aldo Mar-

learn that almost all women want the same thing. Just like

tins and Autumn Cashmere, work well with colorful tees

you, we all want to look good and feel good. Wearing

from Before & Again and Alberto Makali. Relaxed separates

clothes that we love makes us happy; it is that simple.

from XCVI, Sympli and Lilla P add novelty with interesting

Back to the idea of "trend"—please let go of the concept that you need a list of what to wear—instead choose what makes you smile (even if it is just on the inside!).

Some of us are inspired by color—last year’s Pantone color Tangerine made many of us happy. Although the warm,

GOOD NEWS FOR ALL OF YOU ASKING FOR J BRAND JEANS —THEY HAVE ARRIVED!

sunny, yummy color made me smile, it didn’t make it into

details and super soft fabrics. Good news for all of you ask-

my wardrobe. This spring, you will see more coral, punch

ing for J Brand Jeans—they have arrived! Our J Brand

(think Hawaiian), and other fruit inspired colors.

styles include high-rise and mid-rise skinnies, slim boot,

You will also see a full spectrum—everything from safari neutrals to bold strokes of fresh vibrant hues. Guess what?

You can wear whatever color you like! This is as simple as it sounds, so no excuses not to give it a shot.

Prints look especially fresh in capri or ankle-length pants.

However, I will interpret this in a way that works better for

and straight, all of which look great paired with tops from Vince, Fifteen Twenty, and all of our tees.

Well, there is a lot in store this spring, so create your own trend, choose to wear what you love, what you feel great in, and anything that makes you smile! We can’t wait to see you!

S T. J O H N

L A FAY E T T E 1 4 8 N E W Y O R K

ETRO

FUZZI | ALDO MARTINS

ARMANI COLLEZIONI

MAX MARA WEEKEND

FUZZI

ESCADA SPORT

ASKLISA Q:

SPRING 2013 FASHION TIPS There are many FOR HER

beautiful, lightweight scarves out there, but how can I wear them in the warmer months?

You can pretty much use a scarf all year, especially a sheer style in airy cashmere or a cotton/cashmere blend. When it does get warmer, untie and drape it over your shoulders as an easy wrap.

We’re also starting to see silk scarves come back as a fashion item. Look for them in the same geometric, striped or color blocked patterns popular in RTW styles. To get even more use out of your scarf collection, tie one up and wear it as a headband or style it on your handbag to accessorize.

Q:

variety of black and white items means you don’t have to pack as much when you travel. Pair black and white separates together or opt for a monochromatic look, livening up each outfit with accessories.

Color blocking continues its reign on the runways, though stripes are bolder than in seasons past. Pay extra attention to where the stripes hit on your body and make sure your garments are tailored for a perfect fit. You can even try color blocking or stripes on your shoes or bag: just as on-trend but much easier to pull off. In bright colors or soft neutrals, this is a perfect way to provide some contrast in your wardrobe and effortlessly liven up your basics. Come in to check out the fresh, modern styles from our favorite designers.

Color always plays an Last year floral patterns important role in my dominated the runways. spring/summer wardrobe. Are there any particular color trends Which prints will be big in 2013?

Pixel and geometric prints are popI should look for this season? ular this season, though florals are

Q:

18

certainly still happening, especially when layered with lace.

Head-to-toe geometric prints are not for the faint of heart, but luckily they work well in small doses and pair back beautifully to the black and white items in your wardrobe.

The most important style advice of all: wear what makes you feel good!

SARTI

Beautiful blues! From azure to turquoise, there’s a shade out there that looks good on everyone! If you’re not comfortable with the boldness of blue, tone it down by popping one piece against an otherwise black and white outfit in strong graphic shapes—another huge trend.

A black and white wardrobe is perfect for unpredictable weather, since you can layer pieces easily and veer towards one shade depending on the rain or sun. Plus, owning a

TOAST A FRIEND A great night was enjoyed by all as The Friendship Circle came together with Larrimor’s and Nadav Baum of BPU Investment Management Inc. to Toast A Friend. The evening highlighted the power of friendship in our lives and that of the friends and volunteers involved in this organization. Directors Rabbi Mordy and Rivkee Rudolph were on hand to mingle and share the joy they bring to individuals’ lives by creating and enhancing friendship between children, teens and young adults in our community. Just like there are no barriers between neurotypical, special needs, similar or different at FC events, there were none on this evening as everyone enjoyed great wine, good company and a chance to raise a glass to what we all hold dear: friends!

Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

PHOTOS: ARCHIE CARPENTER

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RAISING THE BARRE: A D AY I N T H E L I F E O F A P R I N C I PA L B A L L E T D A N C E R

BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE

PHOTO: RICH SOFRANKO

L

ONG HOURS OF PRACTICE. Physical and mental perseverance.

The unrelenting drive for perfection. The rigors of the ballet are legendary. But just how taxing is it? What’s life re-

ally like for world-class dancers? For Julia Erickson and Nurlan Abougaliev, principal dancers with Pittsburgh Ballet Theatre, it’s more intense—and more fulfilling—than most of us could ever imagine.

“I’m incredibly fortunate to be paid to do what I love,” Julia explains during a rare day off in the middle of the holiday maelstrom known as The Nutcracker. “They say a ballet dancer’s stress is

comparable to a firefighter’s. But it’s a dream come true to have this career.” For Nurlan, working hard is all in a day’s work if you want to remain in the top position of principal dancer. “You can never stop working on yourself…fixing your technique…watching and learning from others. It’s a mental and physical challenge.”

For Julia, the typical day begins with a “coffee breakfast” at 7:30 and a 9:15 ballet class at the PBT studios that’s basically a 90-minute warm-up. “Our first 45 minutes is spent at the barre, working on stretching, placement and core,” she says. “For the remaining 45 minutes, we dance in the center of the room. By the end, we’re flying through the air at full speed or working on turns.

Julia Erickson and Alexandre Silva perform Swan Lake.

It would challenge even seasoned athletes, yet the day isn’t even half over. That’s just the warm-up.”

1:00 p.m., followed by stage rehearsals and the performance it-

Following a 15-minute break, the dancers then begin rehearsal,

self, which can push the workday past 11:30 at night. “Practicing

either for an upcoming production or with a visiting stager or cho-

right up to the time of the show helps keep my muscle memory

reographer for a future performance. With five-minute breaks

strong and keeps it all right in the front of my brain,” explains Julia.

every hour to use the bathroom or sneak in a snack, rehearsals

For both Nurlan and Julia, one of the most rewarding aspects

continue until 2:00 p.m., when dancers break for lunch. By 3:00,

of ballet is the close collaboration with other dancers and staff.

they’re back in rehearsal ‘til 6:00. “That doesn’t mean there’s no

“Ballet is intimate—more than almost any other profession,” Julia

break at all,” laughs Julia. “Not every dancer is in every scene, so

explains. “You’re in close physical contact with other dancers—

there is downtime. But that’s usually spent doing some comple-

we’re like a family.” The camaraderie, mutual support and drive

mentary activity like Pilates—or in physical therapy.”

to push each other to become better is second nature. “You help

Schedules intensify even more when it’s a production week.

During The Nutcracker, the warm-up classes may begin as late as

them, they help you,” says Nurlan. “The hard work is all worth it when you see the end result on stage.”

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PHOTO: ARCHIE CARPENTER

B Y C A L LY J A M I S V E N N A R E

A

LONG THE OHIO RIVER BOULEVARD, just beyond the McKees

and Jill Silverman, grew up in the business and learned every

Rocks bridge as you enter the town of Bellevue, stands

piece of it—literally garment by garment—beginning in their

Leff-Marvin’s Cleaners. Its exterior façade—a long and

teenage years. Not surprisingly it became part of their lives, and

narrow edifice subdued and non-descript—is soft and unassum-

so it remains to this very day.

ing in color and design. Yet inside the swinging glass doors, Leff-

When their parents retired, there was never any doubt that Lori

Marvin’s impassioned team of workers is bursting with energy.

and Jill would continue their father’s legacy. And although the

There is non-stop motion as customers are serviced, phones are

business has now grown to over 1,500 pickup & delivery and

answered, and clothing of all shapes, sizes, colors and fabrics is

5,000 cash & carry customers, as well as 22 employees, the com-

cleaned and pressed to perfection.

mitment to personalized service that was ingrained in them by

The family-owned and operated business was founded over five decades ago by Marvin Friedman. His daughters, Lori Kayser

their father remains ever-present. continued page 44.

Above from left: Jill Silverman, Gary Lasch and Lori Kayser.

INVESTED IN YOUR INTERESTS FOR OVER A QUARTER OF A CENTURY

Prudent Investing in Times of Media Frenzies If you read or watch any financial news on a regular basis, you know that more often than not, some topics dominate the headlines for days if not weeks or months at a time, i.e. the debt ceiling and the “fiscal cliff.” There is much pontification among financial experts, media pundits, and others as to how these matters can affect you and how you should prepare or react to them.

NADAV BAUM Executive Vice President, Financial Advisor Mr. Baum can be contacted at nbaum@bpuinvestments.com

Let me give you my perspective. During my 25 years in the financial industry there have been many issues that impact investors outside their realm of control, i.e. the 2008 recession, legislative actions at the state and national levels, Federal Reserve decisions and more. However, that does not mean investors are at a loss of control when it comes to their own investments. For those of you who are anxious after reading or watching financial “breaking news” stories my advice is to stop reading and watching; rather, make an appointment to sit down with your financial advisor and revisit your long term financial plan. Investing is more than the ups and downs of Wall Street. It’s about taking a holistic approach to investing that considers not only the nature of the capital markets but also your personal circumstances and needs.

Keep the media hype in perspective.

Between regularly scheduled meetings with your financial advisor, call him or her if you have new concerns.

Remember, investing is a long term process.

ONE OXFORD CENTRE 301 GRANT ST. | SUITE 3300 | PITTSBURGH, PA 15219 | 412-288-9150 BPU Investment Management, Inc. | A registered investment advisor | Member FINRA/SIPC

WWW.BPUINVESTMENTS.COM

nb010213

The accuracy and completeness of this information is not guaranteed. The opinions expressed are those of the author and not necessarily those of BPU Investment Management, Inc. or its affiliates. The material is solely for informational purposes and is not a solicitation of an offer to buy any security or instrument or to participate in any trading strategy. Though our firm provides planning services, we do not render specific legal, accounting or tax advice.

Always consult an appropriate professional before implementing any planning decisions. Asset allocation, diversification, and rebalancing do not assume a positive return or protect against loss. © 2012 BPU Investment Management, Inc.

ASKFORUM

SPRING 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

two suits in this updated model (we have options at many prices) before you replenish your wardrobe. You might also want a few slimmer-cut shirts and narrower ties (about three inches; the ones in your closet are likely three and three-quarters) to complement the trimmer-fit suits.

Q:

I read a study that said the first thing women notice on men is their shoes. So what shoes should I be wearing this spring?

Absolutely! Whether or not you need glasses, eyewear is a hot accessory this season. We like bigger frames in black or tortoise for a pseudo-intellectual look, vintage styles with a modern twist, or a touch of color on the temple. Check out our great selection of optical-quality reading glasses that can readily accommodate almost any prescription.

Q:

Watching the new James Bond movie, I realized that I’m seeing lots of color in all my suits are out of date. men’s fashion magazines: What’s up with this skinny look?

Can I wear it if I’m not skinny? is this just for the runway or are In fact, the men’s clothing industry real guys wearing it?

Q:

has been pushing a slimmer model for several years now, but it took a hit movie and Daniel Craig to finally get the message across! Yes, today’s suits are narrower in the shoulder, chest and leg. The coat sleeves and flat-front pants are slightly shorter and the overall effect is much more youthful. Our suggestion: try one or

30

Real guys are wearing it! Color has always been a factor in men’s sweaters, shirts and neckwear; only recently has it moved to bottoms. We suggest pairing bright color fivepocket pants with more neutral tops (knits, wovens, sportcoats). It’s a great look that’s surprisingly easy to pull off, once you take that first step.

COURTESY EYEBOBS

Q:

After years of struggling with contact lenses, I’m seeing guys wear some very cool glasses. Should I switch over?

Shoes run the gamut from bright athletic styles to cool wingtips to suede lace-ups to dress/casual hybrids that combine luxury leathers with hightech soles. Color is key, if not on the shoe itself then on the soles or laces.

The possibilities are limitless: finally, a fun footwear season!

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC.

profile

GLOVES FOR YOUR FEET MAGNANNI SHOES OFFER THE FINEST IN FIT—AND FLAIR.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

ebastián Blanco had been working in shoe factories since he was 12. In 1954, at the age of 44, he decided to start his own business. With only five employees, he began making shoes out of a small workshop in his own home in Almansa, a factory town in southeastern Spain specializing in leather goods production. Two years later he partnered with shoe salesman Antonio Garcia to form Blangar.

When Blanco’s only son Pascual turned 14, he began learning shoe design and pattern making from his father. At just 16, Pascual became the lead designer, introducing more elegant styles and rebranding the company as Magnanni (after going to a movie with his future wife Rocio, where he was impressed by Italian actress Anna Magnani).

In 1968, Pascual married Rocio, and the couple later had five sons (Sebastián, Miguel, Pascual, Julio and Luis) and a daughter (Rocio). Today the entire third generation of Blancos occupy key positions at Magnanni. Pascual, the third son of Pascual and

Footwear Trends for 2013

• Single and double monkstraps • Mixed-media: leathers, suedes and textiles • Drop tassels

32

Rocio, is in charge of distribution in the U.S. and Asia, and reveals that although his father is technically retired, “the company is like another son to him. In my opinion, my father is the best shoemaker in Spain, and we still learn from him every day.”

When asked about the difficulty of working alongside five siblings, Pascual laughs. “When we discuss business, it’s usually informal… and loud! Sometimes we get on each other’s nerves, but then we go out afterwards and have a beer. We’re a very close family.”

Still based in Almansa, Magnanni continues to construct all its footwear by hand using only the highest quality European leathers.

Magnanni is known for its use of the complicated, labor-intensive Bologna construction. But the end result—a foot wrapped 360 degrees with leather, as a hand in a glove—is worth it, giving each shoe exceptional flexibility and comfort. “We make the shoe so the lining wraps around your entire foot,” explains Pascual. “Some brands use a hard insole, but we have soft molded leather. It conforms to your foot faster so there’s never a long breaking-in period.”

The last, a metal or plastic piece shaped like the human foot over which a shoe is formed, is another vital part of any shoe design. Magnanni’s are all carefully constructed in house to ensure quality and consistency. “Even if they don’t realize it, the last is the first thing people feel when they try a shoe on,” Pascual says. “We’ve found a successful fit, but we’re always testing and developing it to make it better.”

The company also hand-paints all of its leathers with exclusive dyes, natural creams and polishing rags, imparting each pair with a one-of-a-kind finish and a deep, rich coloration. The perfect final touch on the shoes you’ll wear for a lifetime.

style

SPRING 2013 FASHION SIZZLES WITH BOLD HUES. HERE’S HOW TO WEAR THEM. BY LENORE RICH

COLOR CUES To get out of a lackluster neutral zone, a few tips: Determine your best colors and wear them near your face. You’ll have a healthy glow. Your eyes will be brighter, your teeth whiter, you’ll look more alert. Knowing your personal color palette will prevent costly mistakes (like buying clothes that just end up hanging in your closet). A professional color analysis is the best option, but you can also do it yourself. Under natural lighting, hold a fabric up to your face, alternating between cool, blue-based tones (blue-reds, true blues, black, white) with warm, yellowbased shades (yellows, oranges, beiges). It should be obvious: either cool or warm colors will be more flattering.

(FYI, the vast majority of American men look best in cool shades; hence white or light blue dress shirts rather than beige, and gray or navy suits rather than brown.)

Accessorize! If some of your favorite clothes are in the

‘wrong’ color, add a scarf or sweater in the right shade.

Eyeglasses, hotter than ever, are a great way to bring ‘correct’ color to your face. Men should consider adding color with great ties, scarves, socks, belts, shoes (and shoelaces!), or other mood-elevating accessories.

This season’s essential buy: five-pocket pants or jeans in bold color. The good news: just pick a shade you love! It’s okay to wear a wrong color away from your face; just make sure the top is in your right color! But remember: color blocking that cuts the body in half looks best on tall, thin model types, which most of us are not.

While skin tone is the most important factor in finding your best colors, make-up and hair color matter.

Fortunately for the men out there: most guys look great with gray hair, as long as it’s the right shade of gray. See a professional colorist and go from drab to dynamic.

The Color-Mood Connection Connecticut, confirms that color evokes mood. “People need visual cues to reinforce feelings and create a state of mind. For example, the Argentine Tango, a passionate dance, evokes feelings of fury, mystery and attitude. I wear a red tie and my dance partner wears red lipstick and strong eye makeup, enhancing the intense facial expression inherent in this dance. Although the quintessential black or red tango dress may seem cliché, it’s totally relevant.

Latin dances—caliente and spicy—scream for reds, yellows, oranges and sparkle. But a graceful elegant waltz begs for soft blues and pastels to set the scene—picture a fairy tale Princess gliding across the dance floor...”

34

LEFT FERNANDA RESENDE. ABOVE COURTESY SCOTT JAMES

Ronny Dutra, dance instructor at Dance With Me studios in Stamford,

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CIUCCOLI STYLING: JOSEPH UNGOCO GROOMING: VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS FOR FORD ARTISTS

Take note.

NEWRULES FOR BUSINESSCASUAL You heard it here first: Casual Fridays are becoming less casual, even on Fridays, even in the summer!

The new Business Casual is just as relaxed but nowhere near as sloppy. Clothes that fit. Colors that flatter. Luxury fabrics that beg to be touched.

(Well, maybe not in the office…) Score points with the boss, with the women, with your mother… Look better, feel better, perform PERFORMANCE better. Here, in the pages to follow, the new ENHANCING rules for Business Casual.

Rule

1

JEANS IN THE OFFICE: Unless you’re meeting with formal clients, jeans are okay. Just make sure you’re wearing perfectly fitted premium denim in an even-tone dark wash.

Paired with a sportcoat, a cardigan, or even a shirt and tie, dressed-up denim is fine with us. (Just ditch the big baggy stuff and wear great shoes!)

Rule

2

A SPORTCOAT IS ALWAYS APPROPRIATE! Why not try a modern unconstructed version, (unlined, minus the padding) worn with a lightweight knit top or shirt and tie. (Bows are back, especially for young guys!) Note too the fivepocket pants in non-denim fabrics. Fit is key!

3

Rule

INVEST IN A GREAT SPRING JACKET! Since you don’t need a whole wardrobe of them, pick something really special. (Suede in the spring is very Italian!)

4

Rule

FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES. Cool socks: check! Perfect watch? Essential. Bracelet?

Adds personality. A great bag or backpack? Of course! And don’t overlook your belt and wallet. Make sure they convey the impression you want to make.

5

Rule

BEST FOOT FORWARD. Women know, and guys are learning: it’s all about the shoes! For spring 2013, we love lace-ups in soft leather or suede; have fun with color!

6

Rule

MODELS: KERSCH, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT; PIERRE BARRERA, RED MODEL MANAGEMENT

IMPORTANT: IT’S OKAY TO LOOK LIKE THE BOSS! You’ll never be denied an opportunity because you look too professional. On the other hand, clothes that work for the gym or backyard could very well hold you back. As the saying goes: Dress for the job you want, not the one you’ve got…

Personal attention is a Leff-Marvin’s hallmark. In combination

give equal care and attention to khakis, jeans and casual wear.

with its high-quality cleaning services, it is an unbeatable combi-

That commitment to care is exemplified not only by Lori, Jill and

nation that keeps generations of customers coming back for

Gary, but also by their loyal employee base. In a business where

more. Decade after decade. Lori, Jill, and their business partner

employee tenure averages 14 years or more, one can find Fried-

Gary Lasch (a former Leff-Marvin’s employee), wouldn’t have it

man, Lasch and other families working together like a well-con-

any other way.

ducted orchestra.

We care about the people we serve. Not only are we a multigenerational business, we have serviced multiple generations of families over the last five decades.

“Harmony is the magic here,” says Ann Stapley, a Leff-Marvin’s employee of 16 years. Moving effortlessly among a sea of shirts, pants, dresses and other garments, she stops only for a moment to share her thoughts, then quickly returns to the important work at hand. Ordering, cleaning, pressing, bagging, repairing and delivering clothes. Each person in sync with the other. The Leff-Marvin’s life cycle continues for another day and, undoubtedly, will remain in place for generations to come.

“We care about the people we serve,” explains Jill. “Not only are

Editor’s Note: Leff-Marvin’s Cleaners offers pickup and delivery

we a multi-generational business, we have serviced multiple gen-

to your home or office. They are located at 4449 Ohio River Boule-

erations of families over the last five decades. Our customers

vard, Pittsburgh, PA 15202, or call them at 412.761.4054.

know us and we know them. And that makes all the difference.”

“This business is our baby. We go out of our way to do everything that we can to satisfy our customers,” adds Lori. “We take it to heart. We obsess and lose sleep over things. We just can’t help it!”

Take stains for instance. For Leff-Marvin’s—who cleans 1,000 pounds of clothing and presses 800 shirts PER DAY—stain removal is a frequent customer concern.

Gary, who is quiet in demeanor but the “king of stain-removal”

MYTH OR TRUTH? Cleaning your clothes wears them out.

Allow the experts at Leff-Marvin’s to dispel this common myth, because it couldn’t be further from the truth. Here’s the reason why, according to Lori, Jill and Gary:

according to his partners, is constantly in high demand. When

The more you clean and freshen your clothing, the less

he’s not assisting on a delivery, he is on the floor inspecting EVERY

chance you will incur bug/moth damage or perspiration

garment that comes out of their dry cleaning operation. If the stain

stains. Or, worse yet, the dreaded “invisible stain”—the

has remained after the water-free dry cleaning process, he diag-

result of the oxidation process that occurs when the

noses the problem and treats it within seconds via an intense poof

sugar (in what you were eating or drinking) reacts with

of steam and a splash of his custom-blended stain removal elixir.

the air (in your closet). It’s the same phenomenon that

“Our customers feel confident bringing a garment to us for

makes an apple turn brown after it’s been cut open.

a consultation when there is a particularly tricky issue. That’s where the quality of the cleaner comes in…and where we excel!”

So remember this: cleaning your clothes after wearing

says Gary with pride.

gives them a leg up the next time you take them out of

And while Leff-Marvin’s excels in cleaning specialty clothing for both men and women—including high-end brand names like St. John, Armani Collezioni, Etro, Canali, Zegna and others—they

your closet. It’s that simple, and that important. When in doubt, just call Leff-Marvin’s for a consultation.

26

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEK STYLING: WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

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studio in London. Not just any studio, but Abbey Road Studio, where John, Paul, George and Ringo recorded most of their music from 1962 to 1970.

Ted Chapin didn’t have to imagine it. He lived it and confides that “it was pretty cool.” But instead of hearing the legendary Beatles, he listened with pride and admiration as the talented British conductor John Wilson coaxed his handpicked orchestra—comprised of many of the U.K. and Europe’s finest first-string players—to bring to life the film orchestrations of Rodgers & Hammerstein.

Wilson has produced countless orchestrations for film, radio and TV, and his lifelong love of musicals has led him to restore the scores of numerous classic films including High Society and Singin’ in the Rain.

“I listened to a CD many years ago of movie music by John Wilson. I’d never heard of him before, but immediately became a fan,” says Chapin, president and CEO of the New York-based Rodgers & Hammerstein: An

JOHN WILSON CONDUCTS HIS ORCHESTRA IN THE LEGENDARY ABBEY ROAD Imagem STUDIO. Company. “It led THE ANATOMY OF A CLASSIC, me on a quest to find this person who conducted with such guts and passion. I wanted him to take a look at the repertoire that I represented.”

Chapin and Wilson would eventually meet at the BBC Proms, share their zeal for all things R&H, and agree to collaborate on a project. The culmination of that mutual admiration is EMI Classics’

58

SEVEN DECADES LATER! Rodgers & Hammerstein At The Movies, the first re-recording of many of R&H’s most beloved songs since the original movie soundstage sessions.

“There is nothing in existence with this type of integrity,” boasts

CHRIS CHRISTODOLOU / SIM CANETTY-CLARKE LICENSED TO EMI CLASSICS

music Imagine taking the long and winding road to a recording

RODGERS & HAMMERSTEIN REVISITED

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“The recording opened to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall, ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys, Katy Perry…”

Chapin. “John has shaken up R&H’s music and said, ‘Listen to this: it’s pretty extraordinary. Don’t take it for granted.’”

Since debuting to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall—ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys and Katy Perry—the recording has enjoyed comparable notoriety in the United States following its February 2013 release. How could it not with a selection of 15 classics from Oklahoma, Carousel, South Pacific, The King and I and The Sound of Music in their stunning original film orchestrations?

Almost seven decades after Rodgers & Hammerstein first collaborated on Oklahoma, the universality and significance of their music and message has never been stronger—both in the U.S. and abroad. John Wilson saw the reaction firsthand when he performed the duo’s iconic music at the BBC Proms and received a huge public response that grew with each subsequent performance.

He was gratified by the strong reaction to a legendary team that he believes “gave us a completely new sort of musical where the songs were seamlessly integrated into the plot and pushed the plot forward. In addition to this, you got terrific tunes and beautifully crafted lyrics.”

“If you’re a general fan of Rodgers & Hammerstein, you will hear in these performances such a degree of energy, clarity and passion, it’s like hearing them for the first time,” explains Chapin. “Everyone knows the

notes that make up these songs, but when you hear them played by John Wilson, you sit up and say ‘Wow!’” And that’s exactly what happened to David Pittsinger, the international opera star who made his Broadway debut as Emile de Becque in South Pacific and who also performs Some Enchanted Evening on this recording.

Pittsinger says he’s in awe of “the genius of John Wilson. He captured the essence, the flavor, the text and the color of the film orchestrations. It’s inspirational to be a student, curator and champion of this music, which serves as a great tribute to the lasting relevance of Rodgers & Hammerstein.”

Interestingly, South Pacific was the first musical featuring R&H as both writers and producers. One of the most successful partnerships in the history of American musical theater, their musicals have collectively earned 34 Tonys, 15 Oscars, two Pulitzer Prizes and two Grammys.

For this unprecedented recording, Wilson chose what he considered to be “all the best tunes... where the orchestrations show off the orchestra.” He also showcased a broad crosssection of characters—“the Rodgers & Hammerstein types”—and intentionally cast great singers who are also respected actors.

“John is smart at getting all the goods to make music,” adds Chapin. “I think Mr. Rodgers and Mr. Hammerstein would be thrilled by the results. They’d say, ‘Whoa, that’s what we wrote… and that’s exactly the way we wanted it to sound.”’

60

MUSICAL MUSINGS ON MEN’S STYLE Ted Chapin: “God love the blue blazer is all I can say! Women always travel with lots of clothes on hangers, but if I’m gone for a threeday trip, I can do it all with a blue blazer. Brioni is the suit that looks best on me, so I guess I now have ‘a brand.’ And I like to have fun with neckties, an absurd category of clothing when you think about it....”

David Pittsinger: “I feel very close to Emile de Becque’s style: clothing that’s refined, but expressive. I love lifetime classics—like Zegna and Armani—that make you feel impeccably dressed and pressed. But I also admire the styling of Robert Graham, whose color palettes, hand-stitching and tattoo-inspired designs are dramatic yet elegant.”

ON THE FRONTLINE: S E RV I N G A M E R I C A’ S V E T E R A N S B Y M I C H E L E Q . M A R G I T TA I

the middle-aged woman said qui-

PHOTO: MATT MAHONEY

W

E WERE INVISIBLE,”

etly. Wearing a red hooded sweatshirt, jeans and sneakers, she sat at a table, her hands folded in res-

ignation as she shared her story. Her family sat around the table as well—her husband, also a veteran, and their two teenage children. The girls smiled when I glanced at them, but they looked older than their ages—weary. Dad had his Navy baseball cap pulled down low, shoulders hunched, quiet, but listening and nodding his head in agreement as his wife spoke.

The past few years had been tough for this family—separated for months while they were homeless, the parents placing the girls in a shelter for children while they lived in their car and at men’s and women’s shelters. Now reunited through a housing program, they are together, but continue to struggle: the kids are bullied at school, the parents work at odd jobs despite medical issues, and

their stories and ultimately by directing more resources to provide

finances continue to be difficult.

a hand-up, not a hand-out. Though I am incredibly proud of my

Variations of their story unfold again and again here at Veterans

family members in military service, I am not a veteran. Like many,

Leadership Program of Western Pennsylvania. Men, women and

I was under the impression that our veterans were mostly taken

their children arrive here in crisis—some seeking safe and afford-

care of by the U.S. government. I am quickly learning—though

able housing, others looking for jobs where they can earn a wage,

there are many services available from the government—there

and still more just seeking help to overcome obstacles they face trying to transition from military service to civilian life.

Here, our team of dedicated housing case managers and employment counselors greet them at the front door, with respect, gratitude and a “no judgment” attitude—no matter the veteran’s cir-

And more and more, we welcome Operation Iraqi Freedom and Operation Enduring Freedom veterans who use their military training to survive while living under bridges and in the woods of our area.

cumstances—whether homeless, out of work, addicted or just hopeless. We then work side by side with these

is a complicated formula that determines whether a veteran is

veterans, helping them along their journey to self-sufficiency, fi-

eligible to receive those services.

nancial sustainability and a better quality of life.

During my initiation into this world, I find myself overwhelmed by

I have only worked at this non-profit organization for a few

the number of heartbreaking stories of our heroes—not on the

months. My job is to raise awareness of our veterans by telling

battlefield, but here in their hometowns: continued next page

The Vietnam War veteran who arrived asking for tarps to cover

tumors, and was terrified that her family would not have enough

the holes in his roof so he could bring his wife, who was dying of

food or would be evicted from their home while she was in the

bone cancer, home from the hospital. The widow of a World War

hospital for brain surgery. And, more and more, we welcome Op-

II veteran who arrived here after having not eaten for three days.

eration Iraqi Freedom (OIF) and Operation Enduring Freedom

(She had used her monthly pension—typically for food and utili-

(OEF) veterans who use their military training to survive while liv-

They return from war—their adult lives hardly begun—and try to determine what is next.

ing under bridges and in the woods of our area.

This new generation of veterans reminds me of my cousins who served in Iraq and Afghanistan—their young bodies strong, but weathered and burdened by the wounds of war—some apparent, some hidden, others yet to be diagnosed. They return from war

ties—for a security deposit on a new apartment in a safer neigh-

—their adult lives hardly begun—and try to determine what is

borhood after hers had been infested with bed bugs for the

next. Like so many, while they are searching for their futures, they

second time.) The Gulf War veteran, a single parent with five

somehow become lost—invisible to so many of us living here in

teenagers, who became unable to work due to re-occurring brain

the Pittsburgh region.

Michele Q. Margittai works as Director, Development and Community Outreach at Veterans Leadership Program of Western Pennsylvania, Inc. Each year, VLP serves more than 2,300 individuals, makes nearly 5,000 referrals for assistance and operates one of the nation’s most effective homeless Veteran employment programs that places veterans in meaningful jobs. VLP is the largest provider of subsidized-transitional and -permanent housing to veterans and their families in this region. For more information, please call 412481-8200 or visit NeverForgetVets.org.

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶LARRIMORʼS THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .

AND JEANS

spirits

BESPOKE BOOZE

OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING FINE AND RARE WHISKIES (OR STORING YOUR OWN COLLECTION), ARE INCREASINGLY POPULAR. BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS COME CHEAP.

Single malt fans have more options than ever to customize their drinking. By Robert Haynes-Peterson It’s an excellent time for connoisseurs of single malt Scotch whisky. Distilleries are expanding, production is up, with more iterations of fine and rare releases than ever before. For those seeking even more unusual drinking options, a cottage industry of whisky clubs and concierge services has arisen to assist in customizing your whisky experience like never before.

1494 Club: A New Yorkbased whisky club directly targeting high earners, 1494 honors the private social clubs of the 19th century. Founder David Clelland has secured an undisclosed townhouse in Manhattan where members can convene for tastings and curate their personal collections.

Founding Members ($175,000) gain access to Scotland distillery and golf course trips via private jet, while Collector memberships ($25,000 and up) also boast many perks. “I wanted to offer an experience, and a lifetime commitment for collectors,” says Clelland.

The Whisky Dog: Founder Nicholas Pollacchi is an affable, stylish young Scotsman who has worked all angles of the whisky trade. What he felt was missing were private tasting events customized to meet a company’s or individual's needs. Meet The Whisky Dog. “We’re all about sitting down with the client and creating the kind of experience they want to create. Is it focused on high-end, rare product, or is it a one-to-one Scotch 101 seminar with younger executives?” asks Pollacchi. In addition to offering a large range of specialty whiskies, Pollacchi can customize events to include extras like fine cigars, a bespoke tailor, food pairings and musical entertainment.

Branded Whisky Clubs: Groups like the Glenlivet Guardians, 1801 Chivas Brotherhood and the Custodians of The Dalmore provide extra perks for your favorite brands. Sign up online and gain access to early releases of new expressions, private tasting events and more. The Glenlivet Guardians, for example, have sole access to the Guardian Single Cask Edition (about $300), and to a three-day "Whisky School" at the Speyside distillery, including the opportunity to bottle your own whisky.

66

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America: This branch of the popular Edinburgh-based Society allows members the opportunity to sample and buy rare single-cask expressions, custom-made for SMWS. Bottles are identified by number (i.e.

Cask No 106.18) rather than distillery, to allow the whisky to speak for itself.

The date of distillation, number of bottles and tasting notes are printed on each bottle.

Membership is $229 (which includes a kit with four sample whiskies), and an annual renewal fee of $60. Members also get discounted admission to tasting events.

end page

“Wait ’til you hit 35! I used to look like you, but turn 35 and it’s all downhill…’’

In my 20s, I received this warning, time and again, from a bevy of men (usually those wearing large-size pleated trousers). I’d laugh at such an admonition from these uncool middle-aged guys: Who were they to imply I’d automatically fall victim to a similar metabolic demise?

I’d been slim my whole life, after all. But then I neared 35.

My job became stressful and my body tired from daily workouts. I allowed myself the occasional “luxuries” of skipping the gym, eating fast food and splurging on caramel mocha lattes. Unfortunately, these occasional luxuries soon became the norm: on my 35th birthday, I realized that I looked... well, 35! My hair was thinner, my body thicker. Once-comfortable pants were now depressingly tight, so I exchanged them for boring slacks with more “room in the leg.” T-shirts suddenly made me look like an unemployed boy band member, so I switched to plain woven button-downs. I wore vertical stripes. I went through a sweater-vest phase. And as I looked in the mir-

Reclaiming my youth... and my wardrobe!

By David Thomas Moore

ror, I heard a resounding chorus of I told you so’s.

Something had to change. Like a svelte phoenix, I resolved to rise from the greasy-fried ashes and return to my former glory! (Cue ’80s movie montage—minus the cheesy soundtrack.) I traded my beloved lattes for regular coffee, no sugar. I said goodbye to fast food. I began a grueling workout routine crafted by my best friend’s boyfriend—an annoyingly perfect-looking specimen who I’m convinced is the guy whose head you don’t see on exercise infomercials. I grew out my hair, and had it professionally trimmed. Finally, I changed my wardrobe, discarding the lifeless shirts and full-legged trousers and replacing them with slim-fit, flat-front pants and tastefully patterned, tailored shirts in fine fabrics. The piece de resistance: I purchased a perfectly fitting black cashmere V-neck that I fell in love with, despite the price tag.…

It was that sweater I was wearing with a pair of sleek gray pants and a modern black-faced watch when I recently walked into a restaurant to meet my friends for dinner. This would be the test. Would anyone notice? I inhaled, opened the door and turned the corner....

“Wow: look at you!” “Love the sweater!” “David, um... you look great!” Success! I noticed a few females in my party whisper to each other. My buddy Matt said, “Dude, you look great,” in the casual tone men use to give each other compliments. Another friend’s son nodded at me approvingly. He’s in his 20s and in great shape.

Just wait ’til you’re 35, kid... wait ’til you hit 35.

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TURNING BACK TIME 68

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LARRIMOR’S FORUM SPRING 2013