Hubert White

Hu b e r t Wh i t e Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2013

SPRING 2013 FASHION:

SHADES OF BLUE THE NEW RULES OF BUSINESS CASUAL RIDE ON THE WILD SIDE

Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance Our promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics.

From personalized suits to entire wardrobes.

welcome

SPRING 2013 Welcome to the new Hubert White! We took advantage of the late winter lull to totally remodel and refresh our store. After more than 12 years, the shop had become a little worn and we had some improvements to make. Now everything is lighter: the walls, the floors, the new LED lighting, the increased natural light, and especially the spring merchandise!

The “power of new” can be seen all throughout Hubert White: a new Ermengildo Zegna Shop, a new Eton Shop, a new and improved custom area for both shirts and clothing, a larger space for our growing casual wear business, and an enhanced shoe presentation, all supported by dynamic displays throughout the store. We are very excited to show off our new home and we encourage you to visit us soon.

Just as our shop needed some changes to remain current and appealing, so it is with one’s wardrobe. Fits and styles are constantly changing, so you may be in need of an update. Articles throughout this issue highlight some of the more obvious changes that have occurred over the past few years, and on page 14 you’ll find specific fashion tips for this season in a Q&A with our own Brad Sherman.

I hope you enjoy this edition of our Forum Magazine. We’ll see you in our new, bright and enticing store, and we thank you for being such an important member of the Hubert White family.

Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com

FEATURES 2

Welcome Letter

38 Interiors: Risk Management 40 First Person: Turning Back Time

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

FASHION 7

That was Then, This is Now

CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

16 Profile: Hamilton Shirts

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

18 Profile: Magnanni Footwear

Hugh K. Stanton

22 6 New Rules for Business Casual

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

30 26 Shades of Blue

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

DEPARTMENTS

CHAIRMAN AND COO

14 Ask Brad

Christine Sullivan

20 Man of Style: Philippe Cousteau

APPAREL FORUM

36 World Scene

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

42 Travel: A Grape Night’s Sleep 44 End Page: Keep it Clean

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

SPRING/SUMMER 2013

Read what Hubert White’s top associates have to say about the way your clothes should look and fit.

Jim Quinn Loves all the details

James Michel

That was

Then

This is

Now...

Knows how to put you in the highest quality in the most modern way

Matt White Dishes advice on Facebook® and puts the display face on the store

Brad Sherman Has made over 100 buying trips for Hubert White

Bob Miller Hubert White’s ”customologist“

Chuck Simpkins Wants to help you push your own envelope

fashion 101

That wasThen...

A BAGGIER FIT IS THE TELLTALE SIGN OF A DATED SUIT Jim says: “Lose this look. Donate it and get on with your life!”

Shoulders are too constructed, heavy, thick and wide.

Jacket Wider lapels and longer jacket length are dated and stale.

Pants are too full and baggy with multiple pleats.

Shoes These dated wheels with the thick soles are way too chunky.

Cuffs Skinny cuffs with baggy pants?

Forget about it!

> the new suit This is Now...

HERE ARE THE KEY FEATURES TO KNOW James says: “Less is more by today’s standards.”

Lapel is narrower with a higher notch.

Jacket is more fitted, and closer to the body.

Sleeves on the jacket are narrower and slightly shorter.

Pants are flat-front, more sculpted and slightly shorter.

Fabrics with built-in technology woven into the cloth lend themselves to a trimmer fit.

fashion 101

Yesterday’s Gone WIDER PANT LEGS, MULTIPLE PLEATS AND A LOOSE-FITTING SHIRT Matt says: “This look went the way of pagers and flip phones.”

Shirt is baggier in the body, shoulder and sleeve. Fits like a diaper.

Belt has a narrow strap with an uninteresting buckle.

Pants Wider legs and excess pleating create too much drape.

Cuffs are too narrow and they break too much at the lower leg.

Shoes Dress shoes make this casual look even more dated.

> the new dressy casual MORE FITTED WITH A SPORTCOAT AND CASUAL SHOES Brad says: “Fitted is more flattering and it will motivate you to stay in shape.”

Jacket Add a slimmer-fitting sportcoat for an updated look.

Shirt Fits closer to the body with narrower arms. You cannot fit the old under the new!

Flat-front is preferred but if pleated, make it a trimmer single pleat.

Trouser leg is narrower throughout and slightly shorter, with only a slight break.

No more looking back...

fashion 101

The Old CASUAL NO LONGER MEANS BAGGY Bob says: “Maybe for mowing the lawn.”

Sleeves were looser and longer with a larger shoulder.

Torso was fuller and wider.

Jeans were slouchy with wide legs, a longer rise and notably more fabric.

Hem was longer with a heavy break.

> the new weekend wear POLOS AND JEANS HAVE A CLEANER FIT Chuck says: “A little tweak here and there goes a long way toward updating your wardrobe.�

Sleeve is narrower and shorter with a more fitted shoulder.

Torso fits closer to the body and is less boxy.

Belt is wider with a heavier, more interesting buckle.

Jeans Taking the lead from dress pants, jeans are slimmer throughout the leg with a shorter rise.

Shoes More rugged looking shoes designed for casual wear.

Softer and more comfortable.

ASKFORUM

SPRING 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

two suits in this updated model (we have options at many prices) before you replenish your wardrobe. You might also want a few slimmer-cut shirts and narrower ties (about three inches; the ones in your closet are likely three and three-quarters) to complement the trimmer-fit suits.

Q:

I read a study that said the first thing women notice on men is their shoes. So what shoes should I be wearing this spring?

Absolutely! Whether or not you need glasses, eyewear is a hot accessory this season. We like bigger frames in black or tortoise for a pseudo-intellectual look, vintage styles with a modern twist, or a touch of color on the temple. Check out our great selection of optical-quality reading glasses that can readily accommodate almost any prescription.

Q:

Watching the new James Bond movie, I realized I’m seeing lots of color in that all my suits are out of date. men’s fashion magazines: What’s up with this skinny look?

Can I wear it if I’m not skinny? is this just for the runway or are In fact, the men’s clothing industry real guys wearing it?

Q:

has been pushing a slimmer model for several years now, but it took a hit movie and Daniel Craig to finally get the message across! Yes, today’s suits are narrower in the shoulder, chest and leg. The coat sleeves and flat-front pants are slightly shorter and the overall effect is much more youthful. Our suggestion: try one or

14

Real guys are wearing it! Color has always been a factor in men’s sweaters, shirts and neckwear; only recently has it moved to bottoms. We suggest pairing bright color fivepocket pants with more neutral tops (knits, wovens, sportcoats). It’s a great look that’s surprisingly easy to pull off, once you take that first step.

COURTESY EYEBOBS

Q:

After years of struggling with contact lenses, I’m seeing guys wear some very cool glasses. Should I switch over?

Shoes run the gamut from bright athletic styles to cool wingtips to suede lace-ups to dress/casual hybrids that combine luxury leathers with hightech soles. Color is key, if not on the shoe itself then on the soles or laces.

The possibilities are limitless: finally, a fun footwear season!

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HUBERT WHITE THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .

AND JEANS

profile

David and Kelly Hamilton have expanded the family business.

BESPOKEN FOR

A young Texas twosome reinvigorates their family’s great American shirt business. By William Kissel WE DO IT ALL—

When fourth-generation shirt makers David and Kelly Hamilton decided to extend the reach of their family’s custom shirts outside their Houston-based store, the siblings knew they would have to keep a close eye on their distribution. “In our experience, [the product is] only as good as the salesperson on the floor. So we wanted to limit ourselves to only the best specialty stores in the country who know their products and their customers as well as we know ours,” says David.

Hence, Hamilton’s signature shirts can only be found in fewer than 30 of the top retailers nationwide.

Indeed, each Hamilton shirt—whether custom, made-to-measure or a product of the firm’s relatively new Hamilton 1883 ready-made collection—is a carefully constructed work of art made from the finest Italian and Swiss fabrics (more than 500 varieties in stock and an additional 700 on demand). They are hand-cut and hand-crafted entirely in America. Unlike other shirt makers, nearly 80 percent of the 130-yearold Hamilton brand’s operation is still dedicated to the lost art of bespoke, made-to-order shirt making, a process that allows the customer to choose his own fabric, cut, button, collar and cuff style, among other sartorial details. Moreover, the firm still cuts its shirts from a customer’s own signature paper pattern and produces a prototype garment to allow for alterations and client approval before completing every order.

What’s most unique about the Hamilton experience

is that the client never feels overFROM MEASURING whelmed by the myriad options.

AND HELPING CLIENTS “It’s like a menu in a restaurant,” SELECT THE DETAILS says David. “There are infinite OF THEIR SHIRTS options, but we don’t present it that TO FASHIONING THE way. We think it’s best to make sugFINISHED PRODUCT. gestions, so the client still controls every design aspect but without the burden of making every decision.”

Hamilton might be unknown to most who’ve never ventured inside the company’s original Texas shop, but the brand actually has deep roots. It began in 1883 (hence the signature on its ready-made shirts) when brothers Edward and J. Brooke established Hamilton Brothers as a clothier producing everything from custom-made suits to hats. Shirts became the family’s primary focus after World War II, and over the years the business passed from generation to generation.

Under Kelly and David’s stewardship, which began in 2006, the label has expanded nationally and introduced a new collection of softly styled sport shirts with a slightly slimmer fit to reach a younger demographic. “The softer collar gives it a more contemporary feel, and the tail is shorter so it can be worn in or out. But we still use the highest quality fabrics that appeal to a more classic customer,” says David.

Shirts range in price from roughly $225 (readymade) to $325 (full bespoke).

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profile

GLOVES FOR YOUR FEET MAGNANNI SHOES OFFER THE FINEST IN FIT—AND FLAIR.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

ebastián Blanco had been working in shoe factories since he was 12. In 1954, at the age of 44, he decided to start his own business. With only five employees, he began making shoes out of a small workshop in his own home in Almansa, a factory town in southeastern Spain specializing in leather goods production. Two years later he partnered with shoe salesman Antonio Garcia to form Blangar.

When Blanco’s only son Pascual turned 14, he began learning shoe design and pattern making from his father. At just 16, Pascual became the lead designer, introducing more elegant styles and rebranding the company as Magnanni (after going to a movie with his future wife Rocio, where he was impressed by Italian actress Anna Magnani).

In 1968, Pascual married Rocio, and the couple later had five sons (Sebastián, Miguel, Pascual, Julio and Luis) and a daughter (Rocio). Today the entire third generation of Blancos occupy key positions at Magnanni. Pascual, the third son of Pascual and

Footwear Trends for 2013

• Single and double monkstraps • Mixed-media: leathers, suedes and textiles • Drop tassels

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Rocio, is in charge of distribution in the U.S. and Asia, and reveals that although his father is technically retired, “the company is like another son to him. In my opinion, my father is the best shoemaker in Spain, and we still learn from him every day.”

When asked about the difficulty of working alongside five siblings, Pascual laughs. “When we discuss business, it’s usually informal… and loud! Sometimes we get on each other’s nerves, but then we go out afterwards and have a beer. We’re a very close family.”

Still based in Almansa, Magnanni continues to construct all its footwear by hand using only the highest quality European leathers.

Magnanni is known for its use of the complicated, labor-intensive Bologna construction. But the end result—a foot wrapped 360 degrees with leather, as a hand in a glove—is worth it, giving each shoe exceptional flexibility and comfort. “We make the shoe so the lining wraps around your entire foot,” explains Pascual. “Some brands use a hard insole, but we have soft molded leather. It conforms to your foot faster so there’s never a long breaking-in period.”

The last, a metal or plastic piece shaped like the human foot over which a shoe is formed, is another vital part of any shoe design. Magnanni’s are all carefully constructed in house to ensure quality and consistency. “Even if they don’t realize it, the last is the first thing people feel when they try a shoe on,” Pascual says. “We’ve found a successful fit, but we’re always testing and developing it to make it better.”

The company also hand-paints all of its leathers with exclusive dyes, natural creams and polishing rags, imparting each pair with a one-of-a-kind finish and a deep, rich coloration. The perfect final touch on the shoes you’ll wear for a lifetime.

man of style

A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE When Philippe Cousteau was a boy, he wanted to be a fireman. Then, on his 16th birthday, his mother and sisters gave him a present: a research trip to Papua New Guinea. Since then he’s been traveling the world, from enduring the cold of Antarctica to providing humanitarian aid in war-torn Sarajevo.

A self-described “explorer, social entrepreneur and environmental advocate,” Philippe Cousteau is the 32year-old son of Jan and Philippe Cousteau Sr. He is also, of course, the grandson of legendary Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau. “My grandfather taught me to always innovate... always question,” he says. “Each of us has the responsibility to make the world a better place.”

Cousteau takes this responsibility very seriously.

For him, exploring the connections between humans and the environment is as important as exploring nature itself. He is co-founder of Azure Worldwide, a strategic environmental design, development and marketing company. Along with green site design and planning, eco-tourism and new media, they’re using interactive gaming “to help people understand how their actions impact the environment.” Cousteau is also a special correspondent for CNN International, hosting the Going Green series and reporting on environmental and humanitarian issues. He serves on the boards of directors of The Ocean Conservancy, the Marine Conservation Biology Institute, the National Environmental Education Foundation and the National Council of the World Wildlife Fund. He has

20

TOP RIGHT COURTESY BBC. BOTTOM LEFT AND NEXT PAGE COURTESY ADAM LARKEY.

PHILIPPE COUSTEAU MAKES ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION LOOK GOOD. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

also testified to Congress on ocean management and off-shore drilling.

In addition, Cousteau is president of EarthEcho International, a non-profit organization he founded with his sister and mother, whose mission is to encourage youth to take action that restores and protects our water planet. “My grandfather was a wonderful storyteller and communicator,” Cousteau reveals. “He believed you could change society through kids.” Following this philosophy, EarthEcho combines education, balanced advocacy and a commitment to action, providing programs and tools for students to undertake local projects to help the environment. It also includes training in citizen journalism, workshops that teach young people how to write and tell stories about the environment and the world they live in. “If they can learn [how to write], their words have meaning.

They have power,” he emphasizes. Cousteau is the co-author, with Cathryn Berger Kaye M.A., of Going Blue: A Teen Guide to Saving the Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands (Free Spirit Publishing, 2010) and Make A Splash!: A Kid’s Guide to Protecting Our Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands. “We’ve seen firsthand the passion young people have for the environment. EarthEcho’s focus is to empower youth to make a difference…. Adults often tell me they now recycle because their kids insist on it.” xtending his social and environmental work to the financial realm, Cousteau has partnered with AdvisorShares Investments to launch the Global Echo Exchange Traded Fund on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE: GIVE), as well as to form the GlobalECHO Foundation, a 501 (c)(3) for which he serves as co-founder and chairman.

“The GlobalECHO Foundation is dedicated to supporting projects and organizations that have the power to transform communities and inspire positive change well beyond their geographic boundaries,” he explains.

Despite the seriousness of his business, Cousteau

“ADULTS OFTEN TELL ME THEY NOW has a charming sense of humor. His personal RECYCLE BECAUSE style is both classic and delightfully unique. In a dress shirt (no tie), a vest and jeans (with a THEIR KIDS INSIST jacket draped over his suitcase), he also wears ON IT.” two cords around his neck—one featuring a carved

cow horn from Zanzibar, the other a silver shark tooth—as well as numerous bracelets, including one made of wooden beads from South Korea, another of Guatemalan embroidery, and a silver one from his fiancée.

Due to his busy schedule, which on any given day might include taping a television segment during a jungle trek, then attending a fundraiser or making a personal appearance, Cousteau has had to learn which clothes work for him in various settings. For TV appearances in the wild, he chooses blue cotton shirts and khaki pants; he even has the pants tailored for a perfect fit.

For casual wear he likes jeans (which he lets his fiancée pick out), and on dressier occasions, he prefers three-piece suits. (Recently Cousteau “is into vests,” in part because they offer pockets for his latest passion: pocket watches.)

The sense of adventure that has taken Cousteau all over the globe for his work is also reflected in his private life. He even has a list of things he thinks he (and every man of style) should be able to do: fix things around the house, ride a motorcycle, drive a stick shift, tie a bow tie, choose the best wines and spirits, prepare good meals and barbeque. And what does a man who travels 300 days a year do for vacation? Cousteau smiles. “When work is swimming with great white sharks, a day off is sleeping in.”

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PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CIUCCOLI STYLING: JOSEPH UNGOCO GROOMING: VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS FOR FORD ARTISTS

Take note.

NEWRULES FOR BUSINESSCASUAL You heard it here first: Casual Fridays are becoming less casual, even on Fridays, even in the summer!

The new Business Casual is just as relaxed but nowhere near as sloppy. Clothes that fit. Colors that flatter. Luxury fabrics that beg to be touched.

(Well, maybe not in the office…) Score points with the boss, with the women, with your mother… Look better, feel better, perform PERFORMANCE better. Here, in the pages to follow, the new ENHANCING rules for Business Casual.

Rule

1

JEANS IN THE OFFICE:

Unless youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re meeting with formal clients, jeans are okay. Just make sure youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re wearing perfectly fitted premium denim in an even-tone dark wash.

Paired with a sportcoat, a cardigan, or even a shirt and tie, dressed-up denim is fine with us. (Just ditch the big baggy stuff and wear great shoes!)

Rule

2

A SPORTCOAT IS ALWAYS APPROPRIATE!

Why not try a modern unconstructed version, (unlined, minus the padding) worn with a lightweight knit top or shirt and tie. (Bows are back, especially for young guys!) Note too the fivepocket pants in non-denim fabrics. Fit is key!

3

Rule

INVEST IN A GREAT SPRING JACKET!

Since you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need a whole wardrobe of them, pick something really special. (Suede in the spring is very Italian!)

4

Rule

FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES.

Cool socks: check! Perfect watch? Essential. Bracelet?

Adds personality. A great bag or backpack? Of course! And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t overlook your belt and wallet. Make sure they convey the impression you want to make.

5

Rule

BEST FOOT FORWARD.

Women know, and guys are learning: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the shoes! For spring 2013, we love lace-ups in soft leather or suede; have fun with color!

6

Rule

MODELS: KERSCH, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT; PIERRE BARRERA, RED MODEL MANAGEMENT

IMPORTANT: IT’S OKAY TO LOOK LIKE THE BOSS! You’ll never be denied an opportunity because you look too professional. On the other hand, clothes that work for the gym or backyard could very well hold you back. As the saying goes: Dress for the job you want, not the one you’ve got…

26

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEK STYLING: WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

SHADES of BLUE This spring, the world’s most universally beloved color — and the color that somehow magically looks good on everyone — is everywhere! In a stunning spectrum of solids, prints, textures and patterns, when it comes to blue, the sky and the sea are the limit. So get your blue on!

Aquamarine Azure Baby Bluebe b rry Caribbean Ceru ulean Cobalt Cornfl flower Denim Heather In ndigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet

Aquamarine Azure Baby Blueberry Caribbean Cerulean Cobalt Cornflower Denim Heather Indigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet

world scene GARDEN VARIETY

T

his spring and summer, you could plant a few geraniums… or create your own private paradise. A simple patch at a small house in London, a garden featuring an Italian cascade in California, extravagant parks on great estates in France and Belgium: French landscape artist and garden designer Francois Goffinet develops the concepts and personally oversees the realization of his projects all over the world. Aficionados who prefer to do it themselves can still have a touch of the master with pieces from Monsieur Goffinet’s recently introduced classical garden furniture collection, which includes a wood chair, armchair, footstool, stone table, tent and planters. He also offers advice: “Take care of the site and the genius loci.”

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

VINO DA CANTARE

A

few miles from Florence near the small village of Lajatico is the Bocelli vineyard, which has belonged to the family of world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli for generations. (Andrea’s sister-in-law Cinzia and brother Alberto manage the azienda and greet guests; Mama Bocelli can often be found hand-tying vines in the fields.) Next time you’re touring the Tuscany region of Italy, you might spend a charming afternoon visiting with the Bocellis and tasting their wines, then stop for dinner at Ristorante La Vallata just a short distance away. This restored farmhouse has several Bocelli wines in the cellar, or you can choose a favorite at the vineyard and bring it with you. Settle on the terrace surrounded by cypress and olive trees dating back to the 1700s and dine on entrées the chef creates to pair with the Bocelli wines.

36

RIVER WORLD

R

osa River Cruises sail along historically fascinating waterways. There’s the Blue Danube cruise that meanders up this romantic river to Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia. The cruise along the Rhine docks at castles, cities (including Mozart’s birthplace) and the mysterious Black Forest (both ships offer travelers private tours of museums and great châteaux). On board, local, often rare wines are served. There’s a spa with one-way glass walls (so guests can view the passing scene while having a treatment), gym, lounge with a dance floor, sun deck, swimming pool, putting green, whirlpool and shuffleboard court. The restaurant features regional dishes; if you’re too entranced by the view to go inside to eat, the chef will arrange to have your dinner served on deck.

37

interiors

RISK MANAGEMENT

Kelly Wearstler lays it all on the line to make a grand statement on style. By William Kissel hen Mies van der Rohe uttered his famous words “God is in the details” to an admirer of his design work, the German-American architect might just as easily have been speaking about the work of Kelly Wearstler, the entrepreneurial designer whose thought-provoking and detail-driven designs for boutique hotels and opulent homes have redefined the concept of modern glamour.

Whether designing the decadent black, white and daffodil yellow interiors of Palm Desert’s Viceroy Hotel (one of the many Viceroys she’s designed from California to the Caribbean), putting the finishing touches on her recently launched women’s fashion label, or drafting pieces for her new line of furniture and wall coverings debuting this spring, Wearstler—a former Playboy centerfold turned style-bending interior designer—is a self-described risk-taker who finds

genius in the most off-beat places. “I can find inspiration in vintage books and fashion, or spend hours in a button store and see one that inspires a pillow,” says the Australian-born designer, who shares her Los Angeles home with her husband, real estate developer Brad Korzen, and their two young sons, Oliver and Elliott. “The smallest things in everyday life—colors, prints, patterns—all fascinate me,” she says.

Those everyday musings have been turned into magical pieces for the home, office or wardrobe: everything from bedding and draperies to jackets and day dresses. Wearstler and her signature studio, KWID, have quickly become one of the world’s most sought-after design firms, primarily because her work transcends style and place without appearing too studied or overly trendy. To that end, Wearstler is not afraid to combine elements of Hollywood Regency, Rococo, Streamlined Modern and Chinoiserie in the

38

same room, nor is she averse to mixing textures and materials such as velvet, gold leaf, tortoise shell, buffalo horn, stainless steel and glass, among others, resulting in her own kind of decorative anarchy.

“All of my interiors are fun, yet still sophisticated and elegant; they are spirited and soulful and full of elements that are raw and refined,” says Wearstler, whose stamp is on countless boutique hotels and residential estates as well as Bergdorf Goodman’s signature restaurant, BG, in New York City. Currently the effervescent designer is at work on a new luxury hospitality group’s first hotel property in San Francisco, while also putting the finishing touches on her first collection for The Rug Company and her dinnerware line for Pickard Fine China. “To me there is no place for rigidity in design,” reveals Wearstler, who is fond of what she calls ‘unexpected style.’ “Unexpected style is mixing different periods together, or creating tension in a room with different pieces of furniture and color. Mixing 10 different woods and four different fabrics creates something truly unexpected. But if you know what you’re doing, it can look very seamless and pleasing to the eye,” she maintains. he daughter of an engineer and a wannabe interior designer, Wearstler grew up surrounded by beautiful and unusual objects, textures and colors. “My home was always in a state of flux; I’d come home from school and the living room would be an entirely different color,” she says, referring to this constant evolution of style as a rhapsody, coincidentally also the name of her new book for Rizzoli.

“Rhapsody is about a bunch of things, different periods, scales and textures, coming together to create a beautiful space,” she explains. “I’ve always wanted to inspire people to take risks and to create environments that feel spirited.”

Wearstler’s signature is always apparent in her works—if you know where to look. “I would say my signature is sculpture. But they are usually very modern, not fussy,” she says. “I like animals and figures and busts. Those are my favorite accessories because they bring a human element to a space. Furniture brings a human element as well, but for me, I just love animals: they add surprise. So in the Viceroy Hotel in Palm Springs, for instance, I put greyhounds in all the doors to make it a bit more interesting.”

Surprises notwithstanding, great thought and purpose is behind every choice.

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first person

“Wait ’til you hit 35! I used to look like you, but turn 35 and it’s all downhill…’’

In my 20s, I received this warning, time and again, from a bevy of men (usually those wearing large-size pleated trousers). I’d laugh at such an admonition from these uncool middle-aged guys: Who were they to imply I’d automatically fall victim to a similar metabolic demise?

I’d been slim my whole life, after all. But then I neared 35.

My job became stressful and my body tired from daily workouts. I allowed myself the occasional “luxuries” of skipping the gym, eating fast food and splurging on caramel mocha lattes. Unfortunately, these occasional luxuries soon became the norm: on my 35th birthday, I realized that I looked... well, 35! My hair was thinner, my body thicker. Once-comfortable pants were now depressingly tight, so I exchanged them for boring slacks with more “room in the leg.” T-shirts suddenly made me look like an unemployed boy band member, so I switched to plain woven button-downs. I wore vertical stripes. I went through a sweater-vest phase. And as I looked in the mir-

Reclaiming my youth... and my wardrobe!

By David Thomas Moore

ror, I heard a resounding chorus of I told you so’s.

Something had to change. Like a svelte phoenix, I resolved to rise from the greasy-fried ashes and return to my former glory! (Cue ’80s movie montage—minus the cheesy soundtrack.) I traded my beloved lattes for regular coffee, no sugar. I said goodbye to fast food. I began a grueling workout routine crafted by my best friend’s boyfriend—an annoyingly perfect-looking specimen who I’m convinced is the guy whose head you don’t see on exercise infomercials. I grew out my hair, and had it professionally trimmed. Finally, I changed my wardrobe, discarding the lifeless shirts and full-legged trousers and replacing them with slim-fit, flat-front pants and tastefully patterned, tailored shirts in fine fabrics. The piece de resistance: I purchased a perfectly fitting black cashmere V-neck that I fell in love with, despite the price tag.…

It was that sweater I was wearing with a pair of sleek gray pants and a modern black-faced watch when I recently walked into a restaurant to meet my friends for dinner. This would be the test. Would anyone notice? I inhaled, opened the door and turned the corner....

“Wow: look at you!” “Love the sweater!” “David, um... you look great!” Success! I noticed a few females in my party whisper to each other. My buddy Matt said, “Dude, you look great,” in the casual tone men use to give each other compliments. Another friend’s son nodded at me approvingly. He’s in his 20s and in great shape.

Just wait ’til you’re 35, kid... wait ’til you hit 35.

GETTY 1

TURNING BACK TIME 40

SPRING 2013 In America, we start at the bottom and work our way up.

travel

A GRAPE NIGHT’S SLEEP LUXE WINERIES THAT ACCOMMODATE BEYOND THE TASTING ROOM. BY SHIRA LEVINE Sleeping where you drink doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a well-pickled grifter, but the warm buzz from a few glasses of pinot noir undoubtedly nudges most of us into a deep rest. When spending a snug few nights within a winery, exclusivity, top-notch amenities and epic landscapes combine to make a sensational bottle taste that much better.

We got our teeth red to bring you three of our favorite winery refuges, encouraging you to toss the keys on the mahogany table, stay the night, and wake up to a crisp sparkling white… for breakfast!

CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO IN PONTASSIEVE, ITALY Anyone can drink good wine in Italy, but not everyone can say they’ve clinked glasses and spent the night in a medieval castle. Located atop the San Brigida hills roughly a half-hour from Florence, the castleturned-mansion villa is surrounded by lush grape vines, olive groves and saffron crocuses.

Trebbio offers a subtle modernity while respecting history and tradition. (Castles are made of stone and get cold, so central heating and electricity are fêted

where they can be found!) The castle tower that once protected the fortress still stands, but now serves as a welcoming entry. The estate warden, although retired, still greets guests in traditional clothing, and the dungeons with their once murderous hooks remain to hold Chianti hostage in Trebbio’s wine cellar. The cave-like restaurant is a relatively recent addition, whose dishes enhance the celebrated Riesling/pinot grigio blend and the aforementioned Chianti.

Built by the Pazzi family, Renaissance-era Florentine bankers, the castle first changed hands in the 14th-century after a bloody clash with the Medici clan. But today, romance is the main focus on Trebbio’s 800 acres. The property hosts many a bride and groom from around the world, as well as those seeking a fairy tale setting for any occasion.

The villa is separated into three apartments, each rustic and cozy with its own patio, private garden and swimming pool. (Those who plan to cook or bring a chef should request the one previously occupied by the owners; it has the most modern appliances.)

Guests can arrange activities like Italian language courses, painting or cooking classes and horseback riding. Hiking and biking trails lined with chestnut trees and olive groves lead from the villa to the lake and the local village.

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JORDAN WINERY IN HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA

MATETIC WINERY IN CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE

The picturesque roads that snake through northern California’s wine country don’t just lead to Napa and Sonoma. About an hour northwest is Healdsburg, an insider’s enclave. Filled with fab foodie spots, the town is rich with wineries that reap their fruits from the crossings of the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys.

Within that dynamic topography lies the 1,500-acre, family-owned Jordan Winery. Tastings are open to anyone with a palate, but a night’s stay within the 18th century-esque château (actually built 37 years ago for a reported $15 million) is only for oenophiles in Jordan’s loyalty program. Earn reward points through the purchase of two award-winning wines, a cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay that have impressed chefs and sommeliers since 1976.

Built by the architects responsible for George Lucas’ Skywalker Ranch, the château includes seven unique rooms, each with high wood-beamed ceilings, red tiled floors and authentic Louis XIII antiques.

Below the suites is the regal dining room and Chef Todd Knoll’s kitchen, where he and his hospitality director wife Nitsa marry epicurean innovation with tradition using the freshest ingredients from the plentiful garden outside. Fava greens, cremini mushrooms and haricots verts are just a few of the treats served on Baccarat crystal and Madeira linens to overnight guests like Bono, Pierce Brosnan and Michael Mina.

After dinner, the lucky are invited to enjoy a glass (or two) in CEO John Jordan’s private 1920s-style hangar. Besides a bar, pool table and vintage shuffleboard, he keeps his bright yellow piper cub plane and a museum quality collection of World War I and II-era memorabilia on display to dazzle those who wander in.

The Casablanca Valley, a midway point between Valparaiso and Santiago, is a wine region just 11 miles from the water, bathed in cool breezes and morning fogs from the Pacific. The result: a ‘premium cool valley’ where chardonnay and sauvignon blanc vines can thrive.

Just southwest of Casablanca is the futuristic-looking Matetic Winery, discreetly tucked into the slope of a hillside within the San Antonio Valley. Pioneering 21st-century enotourism, the avant-garde property features a dramatic oval barrel cellar and two swish tasting rooms replete with a waterfall.

Try the organic pinot noir, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay within the gleaming wood and glass winery, then take a short drive to the elegant yet rustic La Casona. The traditional colonial-style estancia and hacienda is also a working family ranch and vineyard that sits on 27,000 acres hugging the Rosario Valley.

The adobe guesthouses are chic and stylish thanks to a 2004 renovation. Seven rooms are each named after a wine and enhanced with a private terrace. They boast four-poster beds, and rich damask curtains that flank windows with views of palm trees and verdant wild gardens (though the views from the swimming pool are some of the most staggering).

Dining options include the gourmet restaurant Equilibrio or a private chef who prepares indulgent breakfasts and dinners. Organic and sustainable is the agenda, so guests can expect mostly handcrafted ingredients, from homemade breads and sheep’s milk cheeses to honeys and jams made from grape, fig, papaya and pomegranate trees growing on the land. (There’s even a family-run cheese operation to tour on the property!)

43

KEEP ITCLEAN PREVENT YOUR CLOTHES FROM GETTING AS DIRTY AS YOUR BEACH READ.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

oil, that pesky Bain de Soleil); or dye (blueberries, permanent markers) all require different methods of removal.

One of the biggest mistakes you can make is attempting to remove the stain yourself. You risk destroying the fabric as well as permanently setting the stain. Your dry cleaner has the expertise to remove most stains, even invisible ones left by perfumes and cologne that can wreak havoc over time.

Here are some questions to ask before entrusting a dry cleaner with your fine garments: • Do they send out the garments or clean them on-premise?

• Do they wrap specialty buttons to prevent scratching?

• Do they hand-iron and offer hand-finishing?

• Will they pre-measure and block those expensive Chanel, Brunello Cucinelli or St. John knits to their original shapes so they won’t distort during cleaning?

• Do they offer rush services and tailoring?

• Is home pickup and delivery available?

A couture cleaner will provide all these services.

To be on the safe side, always do a trial run with a lessloved garment before committing an important piece to their service. And one last tip: When it comes to suit separates, have both pieces cleaned even if only one needs it so they show the same wear.

Until someone invents a virtual wardrobe from which to wipe away life’s mishaps, the best option is to bring your threads to the professionals. Your apparel will thank you.

GETTY 1 / CHRISTIAN ADAMS

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lathered in SPF 4 Bain de Soleil Orange Gelée while sipping a Gosling’s Bermuda Rum Swizzle poolside is the ultimate way to enjoy a good book on vacation. But this indulgence comes with a price, as evidenced by my friend’s oil-stained designer cover-up.

But life is meant to be lived, and unseemly mishaps are bound to happen (if you’re having fun). We all want to prolong the life of an expensive Zegna suit or Chanel dress that has lived through many good times. However, dunking it in the infinity pool isn’t the solution.

The best way to protect your investment is to use a reputable dry cleaner who knows how to care for high-end fine designer apparel. As we’ve all discovered, some dry cleaners are better than others. So what makes one superior?

A top-notch dry cleaner has a professional relationship with retailers of fine garments and often designers themselves. This helps him identify the fabrics and the best way to clean and ultimately save your expensive garments. Your fine clothing retailer can direct you to the most qualified dry cleaner for the brands they sell.

A couture cleaner’s knowledge encompasses the proper way to treat fancy embellishments such as beading, feathers, leather and suede. Discuss with your cleaner what caused the stain to help him or her decide on the proper method for its removal. (Be honest!)

Different stains, such as protein-based (dairy, blood); tannins (wine, coffee, etc,); oil-based (butter, car grease, body

RELAX. WE MAKE LOOKING GREAT EASY.

HUBERT WHITE FORUM SPRING 2013