ANDR_WEB

ANDRISEN MORTON Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

THE JACKET AN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

2CUUKQP HQT 5KNM

Styles may change. Colors may be brighter. Cuts may be slimmer. Our merchandise may include new designers. But year after year and season after season, this letter’s message remains the same: Thanks to you, we’ve made it through another year—now 34 and counting!

Watch for some exciting changes in the store in 2012, starting with an all-new renovated Ermenegildo Zegna Shop-in-Shop, Colorado’s one and only. Stop in and check it out. Plus, there are more surprises in store for you. What’s not surprising is the amazing new spring/summer 2012 collection, perhaps the best we’ve ever assembled.

So please take a few moments to flip through our magazine. Discover great clothes, get tips on man-style, and get to know the Andrisen Morton family a little better.

Enjoy, Craig & Dave

welcome

Everything new is new again!

Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

FEATURES 1 6 8 10 24 48 58

Welcome Letter Exceptional People Make an Exceptional Store Tailoring That’s a Cut Above Two You Can Count On Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant Photography: Rock Star Art: Art Glass

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

FASHION 18 20 26 28 30 38

Suiting: Tailored to Perfection Profile: Samuelsohn Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style Designers: Robert Graham A Walk in the Walled City The Jacket

DEPARTMENTS 4 12 14 16 44 50 52 56 60

Ask Craig and Lindsay As I See It...

Essay: Pull it Together Ask Forum World Scene Spirits: Roll Out the Barrel Travel: Awesome Austria Speed: Leaping Cat At Your Service

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

ASK CRAIG & LINDSAY When it comes to men’s style, there are no bad questions—only bad results if you don’t know the answers. To get your man-style questions answered, drop Craig and Lindsay a line at AskCraigandLindsay@andrisenmorton.com

Ask Craig

Q. A.

I’m traveling quite a bit for business this summer.

How can I get the most out of what's in my suitcase?

Sounds like you need a 10-pocket suit, which is a great new concept for traveling. More casual, softer, and less structured, 10-pocket suits are typically woven in wrinkle-resistant high-twist yarns, which are ideal for travel. The jacket features five pockets outside and five inside to comfortably accommodate all your stuff—cell phone, passport, glasses, business cards, whatever—and still cut a good figure.

You can wear it as a complete suit for more important meetings and gatherings, or wear the jacket as a blazer with nice jeans or casual flat-fronts.

A 10-pocket suit is the perfect solution for looking great on the road.

Q. What’s the story with cuffs on flat-front pants?

Q.

What’s up with the sockless look?

A. There’s no hard-and-fast rule

A. More and more men are going

against having cuffs on flat-front pants, but a plain bottom tends to look and hang better on narrower cut pants. It’s really a matter of personal taste, but if you opt for cuffs, make sure they're 1.5" to 1.75" wide.

sockless in summer. And in fact, most men’s leather shoes look great without socks. But the “sockless” look is really just that—a look. The smart guy wears no-show socks or liners. These secret socks protect shoes, feet and the noses of those nearby. So go sockless; just don’t forget to wear socks.

Q. I have some formal events coming up this summer. Should I wear a bow tie or long necktie with my tux?

Q. What’s the proper attire for the golf course?

A. Style leans to the bow tie, but all A. Start with some dressier flat-front three tie options for tuxes are appropriate: the pre-tied bow tie, the handtied bow tie (takes some practice to get it right), and the long necktie in black, silver, or a thin black/silver stripe. Consider wearing a wing collar shirt—they’re making a comeback.

cotton or cotton/silk blend shorts with at least a 20” inseam and narrower legs.

No balloon-y cargo shorts. Then go with a comfortable, dressier polo (tucked in, please!) and finish with a nice leather belt. Color does have its place on the golf course. Be bold!

Q. A.

Is it acceptable to sleep nude in the warmer months?

I don’t know, is it? But seriously, check out some of our amazingly cool and comfortable summer pajamas. Next question.

Q. Can I wear shorts to a nice restaurant?

A. Unless you’re in very casual outdoor setting, the answer is no.

A dark wash denim, colored cotton five-pocket style or flat-front trouser is far more appropriate. Add a great sport shirt, a sharp belt, maybe even a cotton blazer, and go sockless in some loafers—not flip-flops!

Q. Is color still as big as it was last year?

A.

Last year’s pastels literally pale in comparison to the bolder colors in the spring/summer 2012 collections. Grab some brightly colored shorts, slacks, shirts, and maybe even a sport jacket. You’ll project a confident, devil-may-care attitude, and be right in style.

Q. Models in the men’s magazines always sport two or three days of beard stubble.

Can regular guys pull that off?

A.

If you’re on vacation or just kicking around the house, maybe.

(As long as you get the OK from your wife or girlfriend.) But in any business or social situation, a cleanshaven look is always preferred. Just grow up and shave! And be careful not to cut yourself…

Ask Lindsay Q. Last year, I dumped my favorite pleated pants in favor of flat-front styles.

Now there’s the five-pocket trend. Isn’t that for jeans?

A. The flat-front pant is going to be around for a while, which is a good thing. Most guys look way better—as in slimmer—in them.

The new five-pocket styles take the denim model, but applied to different fabrics like twill and brushed cotton.

And in brighter colors and different cuts too. Explore the possibilities of five-pocket pants.

Q. Should men get menicures?

A. Man-style is all about presentation and grooming is a very important part of that.

Masculine manicures keep the nails neat, trim and clean, which is much appreciated by us members of the opposite sex.

When a man takes pride in the way he looks, it is sexy, all the way down to his nails.

Exceptional People MAKE AN

Exceptional Store Our shelves and racks may be filled with the world’s finest men’s clothing, but that’s not what keeps customers coming back. It’s the expert knowledge, beyond-the-norm service and genuine friendliness of our people. Always has, always will be.

TARA

JOEI

PAUL

A Jersey girl by birth, Tara moved to Aurora at age 8. As a young girl, Tara wanted to be a teacher, but her grandmother’s career in fashion and retail put her on the path to AM. Starting when she was a teenager and through her time at University of Northern Colorado, Tara worked at Target, Peck & Peck, and ID, eventually leaving school to manage its Southglenn store.

Hard to believe Tara’s bright smile and calm demeanor have been keeping our customers happy for 15 years now. She makes everyone feel welcome.

Born in Honolulu to a military mom and dad, Joei moved to Colorado at age 10. Joei always loved fashion, so after high school, she attended L.A.’s Fashion Institute of Design & Marketing. Her talent was evidenced by the fact she soon began doing “visuals” (designing windows and displays) for Armani Exchange and Neiman Marcus—although barely 18 years old!

Joei returned to Denver and became a full-time member of the AM family in 2004 at the age of 19.

She adds a sense of style, sophistication and fun to the store.

Born in Idaho Falls, ID, Paul spent his early childhood in Scotland. He grew up a huge Notre Dame fan and actually wanted to become a sportscaster. He loves playing basketball, playing and watching football, snowboarding at Breckenridge and carpentry.

Paul is our man about town, and we mean that literally. He handles all the personal deliveries for the store, as well as many other tasks. He’s been on the go for AM since 2006.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Drew Barrymore

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: A young Demi Moore

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Martin Short

HOBBIES: Travel, family, her 13-year-old daughter and one-year-old baby

HOBBIES: Interior design, Cross Fit, boxing and anything athletic

HOBBIES: Basketball, football, snowboarding at Breckenridge

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: The beach, either the Jersey Shore or Florida

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: NYC, Italy or Laguna Beach

FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: NYC and Glenwood Hot Springs

WHAT SHE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF SHE COULD: 6” heels or Lululemon workout gear

KNOWN FOR MAKING: People laugh

KNOWN FOR MAKING: Italian red sauce and meatballs WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Our servant spirit. Customers feel comfortable and cared for.”

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Customers like shopping here for the same reason I like working here— it’s all about people.”

WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The customer is always right, even when their little dog bites and draws blood on a delivery.”

Tailoring That’s

GILDO, ALICIA, HAI & ROBERT

a Cut Above

Our six full-time master tailors and seamstresses are a vital part of the store’s success.

That’s because we know the best looking apparel is also the best fitting apparel. You met a few in the last Forum, and we hope you’ll take a moment to meet the rest of the tailoring department now.

Gildo

Gildo was born in the village of Calvene, Italy, 60 miles northwest of Venice in the Asiago valley (yes, home of the cheese). Though born to be a tailor—he’s the third generation—as a kid he wanted to be a pilot. Gildo apprenticed with his father at age 14, and immigrated to Colorado in 1965.

HOBBIES: Watching Formula One and Indy Car racing and soccer FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Las Vegas to play poker and blackjack KNOWN FOR MAKING: Pasta, pasta, pasta!

WHAT HE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE COULD: Jeans and a T-shirt WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The merchandise, the people, the comfortable atmosphere.

It’s so nice, I couldn’t stay retired.”

Alicia

Growing up in Durango, Mexico, Alicia dreamed of going to school and college, but life got in the way. She came to America in 1982 for better opportunities in life and has worked very hard ever since, starting in a local dry cleaner.

Alicia is the tailoring department’s “presser,” the person who assures the clothing the tailors have worked on looks its very best before being delivered to the customer. She came to AM in 2007 and we are so very happy to have her.

HOBBIES: Exercising, jogging and reading FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Yearly trips to Mexico to visit family and go to the beach KNOWN FOR MAKING: Green chili, tamales and posole WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “The people are so wonderful!”

Hai

Hai grew up in Haiphong, Vietnam, a bustling port city near the capital of Hanoi. His family relocated to Saigon when HOBBIES: Travel and listening to music the Vietnam War escalated. As a child, he dreamed of FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Anywhere in traveling and at age 19, Hai joined the South Vietnamese Europe.

Returned to Vietnam in 2010 to visit Navy to pursue that dream. family he hadn’t seen for many years.

Unfortunately, he was WHAT HE WOULD WEAR EVERY DAY IF HE imprisoned by the COULD: Real casual—jeans and polos Communists for five years at WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Great service, great the end of the war, but finally merchandise, and everybody is so friendly.” made it to America in 1986.

His family owned a tailor shop and Hai started learning the trade at a young age. He joined the AM family in 1997 after working for a number of years at an upscale tailoring shop on South Broadway.

Robert

Robert, our own man of mystery, was born in Warsaw, Poland during WWII. It was a tough childhood but Robert persevered and became a successful tailor with a large shop. His clientele were primarily the many diplomats in Poland’s capital city.

Now here’s the mysterious part… Robert was involved with Solidarity, the group that spearheaded the Polish revolution.

He left everything behind and came to the US in 1987 for “security reasons.”

Robert’s tailoring career in Denver includes many years at Fashion Bar, Alta Moda and Saks. He began working at AM in 2006.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Paul Newman HOBBIES: Skiing, photography, sports cars KNOWN FOR MAKING: Great coffee FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: Snowmass, Breckenridge and any beach WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Everything is the best quality, including the people!”

TWO YOU CAN COUNT ON: STYLE AND SERVICE Usually, men don’t like shopping. Until they shop here. Mostly it’s because of experienced, style-savvy sales pros like Mike and Tyron.

Like their counterparts, they’re men’s fashion experts and are practitioners of the lost art of uncompromising personal service.

Count on it.

MIKE THOMPSON

TYRON JAMES

Mike is a true son of the Midwest, growing up in the small city of Delaware, Ohio, which is in the exact geographic center of the state. He aspired to be a master carpenter just like his father, but his dad knew better.

So in 1968, Mike went off to college in Southern California, first at Glendale College, then Cal State-Northridge where he majored in art/art history.

As a student, he began working part-time at an upscale men’s store in Burbank, loved interacting with customers and was hooked. Then in 1972, Mike became the manager of Bentley’s LTD—a shop very much like AM—managing men’s locations in Palos Verdes and Manhattan Beach. Mike came to AM about eight years ago, after working at Saks Fifth Avenue for many years.

Tyron’s roots are in Chicago, but he grew up in Germany, France and Italy as part of a military family.

An admitted military brat, Tyron knew the military wasn’t for him.

He earned a degree in petroleum geology from Western State, and was a Small College All-American tight end playing for the Mountaineers.

Though working in the oil and gas industry, Tyron started moonlighting at the very upscale Cerruti 1881 and enjoyed it so much, he changed careers. The ensuing years found him at Alta Moda, Lawrence Covell and Neiman Marcus. He began calling AM home in 2004.

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Col. Sanders HOBBIES: Spending time with his wife, kids and grandkids KNOWN FOR MAKING: His wife Rosie laughs if he even tries to cook WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “Management gives us the flexibility to order anything our clients want. There’s no luxury men’s shop better at customer service than we are.”

CELEBRITY LOOK-ALIKE: Bill Cosby HOBBIES: Reading, being outdoors, skiing, golf, music, good restaurants FAVORITE VACATION SPOT: St. Anton in Austria and long weekends in Steamboat Springs KNOWN FOR MAKING: Grilled anything including steaks, chicken, BBQ WHY AM IS SPECIAL: “It’s like going to a favorite restaurant or bar to hang out with friends—and shop! It’s inviting, the service is incredible and the team is the best.”

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AS I SEE IT… Great service isn’t just sending thank you notes or birthday cards, calling about an upcoming sale, or asking about spouses by name. Those activities are about relationships, which is certainly as important as providing great service.

The majority of clients probably see them as one and the same.

While our job is always to stay in touch with clients on an emotional level, our success is predicated on how well we serve them. Call it our “servant spirit.”

Many customers say they most value our delivery service. Our full-time delivery guy and

Dave Morton’s take on “service.”

Most businesses just give lip service to the concept of service. We actually think about service all the time and try to improve it all the time.

It’s our biggest priority. We live and breathe service.

Here, service is defined as the exact amount of attention a customer wants or needs, combined with careful execution of details— right down to the guy wearing his new suit for the first time. And much of that detail is in tailoring and alterations. It must be perfect the first time. It’s why we have seven world-class tailors on staff.

Service is also not saying “no.” We figure out ways to always say yes.

What I think about most is how customers feel. When they feel great, they send us new customers. When they don’t feel so good, even if one customer is upset with us, that keeps me up at night.

Big time.

van made nearly 2,000 trips last year alone. 2,000! And that’s just in metro Denver/Boulder. We also deliver to Aspen, Vail, Colorado Springs and Fort Collins, too.

How cool is that? You come in, buy some beautiful clothes, get fitted by expert tailors, and all of a sudden the clothes show up at your door. You don’t have to come back in to pick them up. That’s great service.

Service also extends to having enough pros on the floor, behind the register and in the tailoring department. We love the fact that customers enjoy being in the store, but trust me, a guy doesn’t want to wait 15 to 20 minutes to be helped with a purchase or to get a fitting. So staffing properly is service, too.

Anyone can sell somebody once. If you have world-class merchandise, selling a guy once is easy.

But the only way they come back to buy again is great service.

Whoever offers the best service wins.

We enjoy spoiling our customers, and they do too.

There’s a new player in town.

Lamborghini of Denver 125 Alter Street, Broomfield 303.469.1801

essay

PULL IT TOGETHER!

THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER ■

Socks should match the trouser, rather than the shoe. (But a little whimsy on the feet is acceptable, as is going sans socks in summer.)

■ More than anything else you wear, your tie expresses your personality.

Make sure it’s current (three and a half inches, narrower if you’re a rock star) and make sure it’s interesting.

Even casual outfits, including jeans, go up a notch with the right neckwear: try a knit or linen tie, or a subtle conversational.

■ Keep your eyewear current. Bring along a friend when you select new glasses and make sure the frames complement your face shape and features. (Bold frames are of the moment, but only if they look good on you!)

■ A handkerchief in your sportcoat pocket adds a touch of elegance.

So there it is. Without threatening my masculinity, the simple act of coordinating a suede belt with my suede bucks has instilled newfound confidence. And now that I’m taking a few minutes each morning to accessorize, my life is changing for the better. My girlfriend seems happy to see me. My colleagues are showing respect. Who knew life could be so simple? My patronizing friend even picked up the check at our most recent lunch outing.

14

ZEGNA

row up,” my fashionable friend sneered over his ceviche, with one eyebrow raised. “You look disheveled, kind of a mess…”

“What are you talking about?” I demanded, feeling very sartorially appropriate in trim khakis and a crisp blue oxford shirt.

“Your outfit!” he dispatched with disdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated.

It makes you look dated. And clueless!” Requesting specifics about my fashion transgressions, I was told that, for one thing, my belt and shoes had nothing in common.

“The belt’s at my waist, the shoes are on my feet: what do they need in common?” I wondered aloud.

But after a quick self-assessment, I had to admit that my friend was right.

Despite owning plenty of quality clothes, some with designer labels, I never seemed to look quite right.

Clearly, my image was far less cool and far more boring than most of the guys in that trendy restaurant.

Time to consult the experts.

Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buy the best you can afford. When the accessories look expensive, the outfit looks expensive.

■ The belt and shoes should be as close as possible in color, texture and material.

ASKFORUM

SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q:

I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

Q:

What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?

Q:

My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.

Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

16

CANALI

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.

suiting

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is an

Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.

exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an everso-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s.

But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas—as many as three layers— for structure, yet the finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand.

Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company

18

has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.

W

HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-

cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly— from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment.

(Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again.

“By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn

THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards.

Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world.

The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian

one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clientele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully

19

wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like lightcolored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service.

Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”

bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and hand-iron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.

profile

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing company with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, luxury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style.

For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas construction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated cleanings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, featuring cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk and precious fibers like vicuna and yangir.

Hand-tailored details include Bemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing company in Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s.

Respected as one of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speak with him about tailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.

What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit?

It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a half hours of labor, more than many of the well-known designer brands that are almost twice the price.

Are they made totally by hand?

No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are several processes a machine can’t duplicate: the handbasting, the handsewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can be automated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot. Most importantly, technol-

20

Samuelsohn designer Arnold Brant Silverstone

ogy has not been able to duplicate a full canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger since the shape comes from pressing.

But after dry cleaning, that shape is gone.

Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—what does this mean?

It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, a softness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a welltailored suit should also have shape and dimension.

What should guys look for when buying a suit?

The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, it should make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriad imperfections and moves with you.

The shoulders should be on you, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the body, but that shouldn’t mean you lose comfort. It’s like driving a great sports car and really feeling the road. When you wear a quality suit, it moves with you.

How can guys look elegant when they’re not wearing suits?

The biggest problem is when men equate casual with not caring, with

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant, George Clooney… However casual the look, it was well thought-out, not thrown together, reflecting their personal style.

What are the key items a man should have for spring/summer 2012?

1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropical wool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A performance blazer or suit, either with high-twist yarns or some Lycra. Most guys these days are traveling or on the move but there’s no reason not to look crisp…

3) A cool outerwear piece: something reversible or with interior pockets or truly transitional and multi-functional. 4) A soft coat.

We’re famous for ours: they look tailored but weigh next to nothing.

What’s the secret of success for a clothing manufacturer?

Passion! I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years; I inherited the passion from my parents. But in addition to passion, one needs a spirit of innovation. We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits, technologies. We’re always pushing the envelope, never satisfied with the status quo. We want the customer to say “WOW!” every time he puts on one of our garments. That’s my passion, and my mission.

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE. throwing on jeans and a T-shirt.

The best-dressed men put thought into dressing: casual might mean beautifully tailored cotton pants and a soft jacket or a lightweight knit cashmere sweater or a cool reversible outerwear piece. Think back to the best-dressed men over the decades: The Rat Pack, James

22

How would you describe your own personal style?

I like to look contemporary: not blending in with the crowd but not blatantly standing out. I like clothing that’s special, with the focus on fit, quality and elegance. That’s the way I like to dress and the kind of clothing I love to design!

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retail environment, how do independent stores compete with stores many times their size? Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn how they do it.

Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.”

Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers’ interests, tastes and lifestyles…”

Braeger points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned.

“We buy smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…”

What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments.

NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that knowledge with trends in the market.”

Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who

24

composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.”

On a more pragmatic note, Wally Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money spent stays in the community.

Andrisen Morton in Denver, Colorado emphasizes service. Says co-owner Craig Andrisen, “Employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.”

Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.”

Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”

GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO

retailing IN TODAY’S HIGHLY COMPETITIVE

THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT

www.brunellocucinelli.it

Castel del Monte - Andria

denim

ATTENTION-GRABBING

STYLE

AG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED.

BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfect jeans, a pair that is both comfortable and sexy? Seemingly impossible standards for most brands to live up to… but AG isn’t most brands.

Mixing that form-fitting silhouette with a lived-in feel is what makes AG denim the hottest on the market.

The company launched in 2001 as a collaboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “the Godfather of denim” Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old Koos Manufacturing, one of the world’s premier denim factories; Goldschmied co-founded Diesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004 and the brand has been on the up-and-up since Ku’s son Sam became design director in 2006.

AG manufactures everything in

its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles, employing over 1,000 workers. The amount of time and personal attention that goes into each pair is astonishing: from hand-sanding and oven-baked whiskering to new eco-friendly laser technologies that help create that perfect vintage look.

“We control every step because we’re a vertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’t take shortcuts, or try to save a few cents here and there with cheaper fabrics or trims.

We really care about the product and want our consumer to look and feel good in our jeans.”

Premium fabrics are sourced from Japan and Italy, many of which are exclusive to the brand.

Recently, AG has also impressed

26

with its non-denim styles, like super-soft pima cotton cords.

In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam highlights colored bottoms as one of spring 2012’s hottest trends.

Men should try muted colors like sand and charcoal, while women can experiment with a more diverse range: dusty shades of rose and gray, and saturated brights like electric blue and raspberry.

The brand has garnered frequent press attention thanks to its many celebrity devotees, including power couple Gavin Rossdale and Gwen Stefani, and Academy Award nominee Anne Hathaway. But Sam gets most excited when he sees someone—anyone—walking down the street in a pair he designed.

“For me, that will never get old!”

BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600

designers

secret is exceptional product. Ten years ago, they virtually invented the colorful contrast trim woven sportshirt that revolutionized men’s fashion. By juxtaposing patterns on collars, cuffs, and/or the actual body of the shirt, they created a whole new look for men’s casual dressing. Since then, the line has evolved to include tailored clothing, footwear, an extensive assortment of premium denim, and lots of whimsical accessories, from

ROBERT GRAHAM:

ECLECTIC STYLE CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF FASHION INNOVATION.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

nyone who’s ever thought that men’s fashion is boring can’t be familiar with Robert Graham apparel.

Founded by award-winning designer Robert Stock 10 years ago, these exciting clothes are part of a total lifestyle concept, summed up by his trademarked mantra (Knowledge, Wisdom, Truth) that appears on every garment.

In addition to the fabulous fashion and spiritual components, Robert Graham sportswear offers up a hefty dose of fun! The company does more than 150

events a year, including the prestigious Concours d’Elegance antique car rally in Carmel, California.

Their strong celebrity following includes athletes (Albert Pujols, Mariano Rivera), actors (Alec Baldwin, Owen Wilson), musicians (The Beach Boys, 50 Cent) celebrity chefs, wedding planners and more.

High profile fans notwithstanding, Robert Graham’s real success

28

hats to socks.

Although he’s been through similar brand-building journeys several times in his career, Stock (who started out working with Ralph Lauren) couldn’t be happier about this one. “What’s different here is that Robert Graham is not just about clothes; it’s about making people happy. Our customers are collectors: some of them own literally hundreds of our shirts. At a recent personal appearance in a store, I lent the DJ one of our shirts in a size 2XL. After the appearance, he confided how many people told him how great he looked. (So of course I gave him the shirt!) And that’s what drives me: seeing that kind of reaction…”

From top: Robert Stock; 50 Cent; Albert Pujols

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HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

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a walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...

citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink

THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia,

romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

The Jacket THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication.

This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look.

And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

MEMORABLE!

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE AND ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

MEMORABLE!

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET!

FORGETTABLE

The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer

4

3 1 2

THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI

JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

world scene

THE ART OF STYLE

L

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers.

Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere.

There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organizes excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.

BAYEUX TOURIST OFFICE

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

UN JOUR EN NORMANDIE

T

he lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italianstyle gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

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SUMMER READING

IMAGE BY GLENN SUOKKO

T

here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with a good book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300 acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hideaway was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson.

Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (and probably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains its aura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rustically elegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burning fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’s hiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing.

But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.

PLUGGED IN

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ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusiast, chances are you’re going to want to tool around the countryside (or slip quickly through city traffic) this summer on the top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. The Titanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, no emissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour, has a range of 100 miles on one charge and is almost completely silent. At your request, Evolve will even make coordinating accessories, such as a container sized perfectly to hold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.

FROM THE TOP

IMAGE BY GREG POWERS

O

n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftop lounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite among celebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular, the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strict rule about the number of people admitted), and the staff is charming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and Niko Mavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collection of spirits and wines from all over the world, including an astonishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderful savory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac and cheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy to help guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars.

46

Let us indulge you head to toe with a Citrus Lavender Salt Scrub.

Let us ease away tension with the soothing warmth of a Colorado River Stone Massage.

Let us replenish your skin with our special High Altitude Oxygen Facial.

Let us allow you to contemplate nothing more serious than the aroma of your therapy.

Experience the benefits of a spa treatment designed just for you.

For more information or to make an appointment, call The Ritz-Carlton, Denver at 303-312-3800 or go to ritzcarlton.com/denver.

Š2012 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

Taking photos at rock concerts started out as a hobby for NYC teenager Neal Preston. But with his unique ability to capture not just the celebrity but the spirit and humanity within, Preston ultimately became one of the preeminent rock star photographers of our era, traveling around the world with famous musicians for the past four decades. His work has appeared on covers and features in major magazines (Time, People, Rolling Stone), newspapers, movies and on count-

less record and CD covers.

We caught up with Preston at a recent photography exhibit at The Morrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo.

What life lessons have you learned from traveling around the world with rock stars?

I’ve learned that music touches everyone in a very deep and spiritual place, as it does me. If you take someone’s music away—and it doesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop, classical, whatever—you are ripping out his soul…

Top left: Stevie Nicks at home in Venice, California, 1981 Left: Freddie Mercury at London’s Wembley Stadium, 1986

ALL IMAGES BY NEAL PRESTON

photography

STAR

PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTON ON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I’ve also learned that the greatest luxury in life is to be able to take private rather than commercial flights!

How do you manage to get these very wired guys to relax? How do you capture them in ordinary moments?

Jimmy Page, onstage during Led Zeppelin’s 1977 U.S. tour

It’s all about being a fly on the wall. Mind you, that’s not something that can be taught; you just have to go by instinct. There is a real finesse involved with figuring out when to remain invisible and when not to. If you start to act like you’re the fifth member of Led Zeppelin, you’re gonna have a big fat problem…

What was the strangest moment you ever experienced at a rock concert?

There are many. But having Peter Grant (Led Zeppelin’s legendary manager) tell me to actually go onstage during a show and stand in front of the drummer (John Bonham) and shoot him was pretty bizarre.

What do you consider your greatest accomplishment?

Many people have told me that they can hear the music when they look at my photos.

Who do you most admire?

I’m not sure “admiration” would be the right description, but the two musicians who have influenced my life are Pete Townshend and John Lennon. Pete for the honesty in his writing, his creativity, his tortured genius, his ability to look at life from multiple points of view… I could go on and on. And John Lennon, for showing me what “cool” really is, for giving me the greatest soundtrack to life a teenager could have, and for allowing me to realize that music was, and always will be, in my DNA.

49

spirits

CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

atered down" liquor is a loaded term, implying a less-thanpremium product. The fact is, almost all hard spirits are watered down before you buy them. By U.S. law, most hard spirits must have a minimum ABV (alcohol by volume) of 40%, or 80 proof (liqueurs, sweetened, infused alcoholic beverages, can have a much lower ABV). Since booze usually comes off the still between 110 and 190 proof, water is added to bring it down to our acquired palate and maximize the base product.

The concept of ‘cask-strength’ spirits—that is, bottling the product exactly as drawn from a maturing barrel—has only recently gained cachet, particularly among Scotch whisky drinkers. These days, there are cask-strength releases of Laphroig, The Glenlivet, The Macallan and so on, targeting the malt whisky aficionado. "Caskstrength whiskies generally have a much more intense flavor profile," says Michael J. Neff, co-owner of the whisky-driven Manhattan bar Ward III. "It allows a broader range of experience.”

‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is "the natural strength of the spirit, unadulterated by water, and is

dependent on maturation conditions," says Iain McCallum, master blender for The Bowmore, Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch whiskies. As a result, the final proof usually differs from bottling to bottling, so the latest release of Auchentoshan Valinch might have an ABV of 57.5%, while Bowmore's 10year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%.

Whisky and bourbon aren't the only aged spirits drinkers are sipping straight from the barrel these days: • DeLeon Tequila, a relatively new luxury label, released its extra-aged expression last fall at cask strength.

The $250 tequila, aged 51 months, comes in at 51 proof. Founder Brent Hocking is confident in the purity of his product. "At cask strength, you can taste flaws or additives," he says.

• Because Cognac is generally a blend of dozens of barrels, and heavily regulated by French law, it's rare to find cask-strength expressions in America. So when Pierre Ferrand Cognac released its $600 limited edition 1972 Cask Strength a couple of years ago, it was a big deal. And

50

when it's gone, it's gone.

• Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape spirit, is gaining popularity in North America. According to Johnny Schuler, founder of the new premium label Pisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco is distilled to strength, with no water, oak or anything else added." This produces a clean spirit at about 86 proof.

"It's an honest drink," Schuler says.

DeLeon 51, a new extra-aged tequila, is one of the only modern tequilas bottled at its full cask strength.

Expect other brands to follow.

IMAGE DELEON TEQUILA

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travel

AWESOME AUSTRIA! THE HILLS ARE ALIVE.

BY VIVIENNE WEUS

ver since Julie Andrews skipped across our movie screens in the Oscar-winning The Sound of Music, the green hills of Austria —and their breathtaking backdrop of snow-capped mountain peaks—have been on my travel wish list. As a young child, something about the soaring Tyrolean mountains stirred my soul and filled me with awe.

Forty years later, when I finally saw those mountains with my own eyes, they did not disappoint. For me, Austria inspires wonder, admiration and a deep reverence for its spectacular natural beauty.

I felt the reverence standing near the large cross and tiny chapel on Markbachjoch mountain, taking in the sweeping views from 1,500 meters above sea level.

I felt the admiration for a people

T H E

U L T I M A T E

T R O U S E R

locals (many in traditional costume) and tourists, we waited for the cows to descend while lunching on schnitzel, washed down with cold Austrian beer.

No visit to Austria is complete without a cable car ride high into the mountains, to experience that “on-top-of-the-world” feeling. We took the gondola from Neiderau to Markbachjoch, a popular hiking spot and take-off point for paragliders. At the top, the 360degree view made my soul sing.

some exquisitely handmade and hand-painted, others kitschy. We found one such shop in the arcade in Innsbruck’s Old Town, where we were wowed by the beauty of pastel buildings with intricately sculpted facades, and the Golden Roof landmark building with its 2,738 gold-plated copper tiles shimmering in the sunlight.

On the food front, we took advantage of our hotel’s half board offer, which included breakfast and dinner each day. We also enjoyed

the Brixental valley. We arrived in mid-September to perfect summer weather, and the next six days gave us a taste of Austria in all its incarnations: sunny, foggy, drizzling, thundering and hailing, and then, on our last day, snowing. Weather can change quickly in the Tyrol!

Our visit also coincided with one of Austria’s great rural traditions: the annual fancy-dress festival for cows! It’s a ceremonial cattle drive when alpine herdsmen bring their charges down from mountain pastures to winter in the warmth and comfort of the valley’s barns.

To mark the occasion, cows are decked out in headdresses, decorated with flowers and crepe paper, and paraded through the crowdlined streets. Along with scores of

Majestic mountain peaks stretch out as far as the eye can see, and you get a bird’s eye view deep into the patchwork fields of the valleys below. There are lots of hiking trails, so it’s easy to spend a day wandering across the mountains, then return to the restaurant terrace to listen to music and watch paragliders run for take-off.

If, like me, you enjoy a bit of retail therapy on your travels, the Tyrol region offers awesome shopping, like the amazing Swarovski Crystal World park, Kristallwelten, at Wattens, which includes a maze, alpine gardens and the world’s biggest Swarovski shop.

Another great experience can be had rummaging through stores dedicated to holiday ornaments,

trying the local specialties: weiner schnitzel and hearty beef gulasch.

As for desserts, apfelstrudel (apple strudel) remains a firm favorite, along with kaiserschmarrn, a pancake made with raisins and other fruits, broken into pieces and served with fruit compote.

The Austrian people were an obliging and fun-loving lot. We were impressed with their strong culture and tight hold on tradition.

On special occasions, many still wear traditional dress—the attractive dirndl for women and lederhosen for men—with pride! In fact, from decorating their homes to caring for their pastures and nurturing their animals, one gets the sense that the Austrians take great pride in everything they do.

54

IMAGES BY DANNY WEUS

who love life and celebrate summer by filling their balconies to the brim with colorful flowers.

And I felt the wonder when, on the last day of our holiday, I opened the curtains to the first snowfall of the season and watched the green fields and pine trees turn into a veritable winter wonderland.

We spent seven days exploring the villages and valleys around Innsbruck from our base at a boutique hotel in the countryside, near the pretty village of Hopfgarten in

ROB ERTGR AHAM .US

KNOWLEDGE 路 WISDOM 路 TRUTH

speed

LEAPING CAT

A RACECAR DRIVER TESTS OUT THE NEW JAGUAR XJL. BY DAVID A. ROSE

s a motorsports enthusiast and driver, I’ve long been obsessed with the Jaguar marque. I’ve owned several over the years and love the look, smell and sound unique to the old Jags. Would the new XJL inspire the same passion?

I was able to make the comparison at Motorcars Incorporated in Plainville, CT, where Dean Cusano sells primarily vintage Jags. Among his offerings: a 1958 Jaguar XK 150.

It was easy to see why these old Jaguars became so popular in their day: dramatic sculpted lines, expressive headlights, a long hood line, a dignified grill, and one of the most powerful engines of its time.

The new Jaguar XJL displays similar characteristics, with an

even more graceful stance. With a 5-liter overhead cam and 4 valves per cylinder V8 engine, this supercharged Jaguar produces an amazing 510 horsepower. Its 6-speed automatic transmission can also be shifted manually using the shifting paddles on the steering wheel, similar to those found in modern Formula 1 racecars.

Connecticut and Jaguar have another connection: the town of Thompson is home to America’s original purpose-built race circuit.

Thompson Raceway began operating in 1940 as a 5/8-mile paved oval track. In 1952, sports cars like the Jaguar XK 120 began racing on what had become a 1.5 mile proper road race circuit on land owned by John Hoenig. For years

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Thompson Raceway was the home track of racers in the Sports Car Club of America’s northeast division, but the last race held on the course was in 1977. The track is still operated by the Hoenig family; John Hoenig’s great grandson Jonathan, now marketing manager, plans to one day reconstruct the course and bring road racing back to northeast Connecticut.

Before my time with the car was up, I took the supercharged Jaguar around the time-honored oval track for a few hot laps. The Jaguar was at home on the playground of its ancestors. I was thrilled to feel this luxury road car instantly transform itself into a racecar, as I thought of the legendary drivers who preceded me at this iconic speedway.

art

Art

MIND-“BLOWINGLY” BEAUTIFUL

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

GLASS A MIXTURE of the most common materials—sand, calcium and ash—is transformed by fire into glass. Artists turn it into masterpieces.

Making glass dates back to about 2500BC in Mesopotamia. Phoenicians were accomplished glassmakers as were the Egyptians, known for stunning turquoise and blue pieces created with copper and cobalt oxides. But it was the Syrians who discovered glassblowing in 50BC. Until then, glass objects were luxury items, considered more valuable than precious gems. Apart from some jewelry—beads and amulets—most glass was used for utilitarian purposes: holding wine, perfume and oils.

Glassblowing made it possible for large quantities of diverse glassware to be produced inexpensively, creating two categories of glass: luxury and functional. Over the centuries, various areas became renowned as glass centers: Venice, Bohemia, France, Sweden. But while a few individual artists such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany became internationally recognized for innovations in the field, glassmaking 58

Gauguin’s IslandIII by Peter Layton

IMAGE THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS

Above: Ruby Conical Intersection with Amber Sphere by Harvey K. Littleton Right: Squill I byAdamAaronson

remained industry based, often shrouded in secrecy.

It wasn’t until the 1960s in the United States that the idea took hold that individual artists could create art glass objects in their own studios. Fueled by desire and technical advances, in 1962 artist Harvey K. Littleton and glass scientist Dominick Labino led groundbreaking workshops at the Toledo Museum of Art, introducing artists to the use of glass as a material for contemporary art.

Soon, glassmaking programs sprang up at universities and art schools across the country, and what became known as the Studio Glass Movement developed into an international phenomenon.

Dale Chihuly is one of the bestknown American artists to emerge from the movement. But British artist Peter Layton also happened to be in the States at the time, teaching ceramics at the

University of Iowa; he became so taken by the properties of glass that he changed disciplines.

“Glass has a life and will of its own that you need to work with rather than control,” explains Layton. “I love the fluidity of the medium and the spontaneity it demands.”

Back in England, the glass-smitten Layton established The Contemporary Glass Society to support and encourage glassmakers and opened the London Glassblowing Workshop to create and teach contemporary glass art.

Now, Peter Layton and one of his initial students, Adam Aaronson, are considered mainstays of London’s art glass scene. Both take nature as an inspiration and “landscape” and “painterly influences”

Viewing Art Glass

are two major areas of common exploration. Although the execution is quite different, their work has the feeling of Impressionist paintings rendered in solid form.

“As an artist, I am inspired by the ceaseless variability of light on the landscape, in the sky and on

water,” Aaronson says. “Glass is the ideal medium to express this idea of continual change since its properties are inherently fluctuating, not only in its molten state but also in the way the play of light creates endless nuances in the finished piece.”

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In 2012, the 50th anniversary of the Studio Glass Movement is being celebrated at museums across the world.

THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS Corning, New York (www.cmog.org) Special 2012 Exhibitions: Founders of American Studio Glass: Harvey K. Littleton & Dominick Labino; Masters of Studio Glass: Erwin Eisch; Making Ideas: Experiments in Design at GlassLab

TACOMA ART MUSEUM Tacoma, Washington (www.TacomaArtMuseum.org) Permanent Collection: Chihuly: Gifts from the Artist

ZeST GALLERY AT THE INTERNATIONAL SCULPTURE OBJECTS & FUNCTIONAL ART FAIR New York and Santa Fe (www.sofaexpo.com) 2012: Pieces by Adam Aaronson and Peter Layton

at your service

Going above and beyond for customers is the heart and soul of Andrisen Morton’s culture. We believe great merchandise combined with great service is the only way to exceed clients' expectations.

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs.

Just call and we’ll make it happen.

MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.

GIFT CARDS For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton.

Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.

ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.

HOME/OFFICE VISITS Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries.

We’re more than happy to come to your home or office. So give us a shout and we’re there…

CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.

PERSONAL DELIVERY Whether in metro Denver, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins or Vail, if you need a purchase delivered, rest assured you’ll receive it when and where you need it…with a smile.

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton gift-wrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.

Theree is a stretchh of road in Boulder Canyon known as The Na Narrows.

5 corners through the steepest, narrowest part of the canyon.

The mountain roads are calling.

When you reach this stretch of road, open your windows and downshift.

V12 Vantage

Listen to the note of the engine, g , ffeel the ggripp off the tires and accelerate up the mountain to know everything this car was meant to do.

125 Alter Street, BroomďŹ eld . 303.469.1801 . www.sthmotors.com

ANDRISEN MORTON FORUM SPRING 2012