Fascinating Pakistan Magazine April 2023

PKR 900 | UK £6 | US $8

The Allure of

VOLUME 3, ISSUE 2, APR-JUNE 2023

Shandur Polo Festival

ISSN 2754-3145

A magical journey Magical Journeys

09 25

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09 to 34

Faiz Mahal - A symbol of peace and tranquillity

09

The Marvel of Chitta Katha Lake

15

A Wonderland of Sindh

21

The Pristine Beauty of Mahodand Lake

25

SHOGRAN A Must Visit Hill Station of Kaghan Valley

30

48 Treasure Trove

35 to 43

Walnut Wood Craft

35

Take Home Souvenir

38

A Man-made Forest

41

Cultural Emblem

43 to 71

Visiting Flagstaff House

44

The Prominence of Wazir Khan Mosque

48

A Glimpse at the Tomb of Jahangir

54

Freestyle Polo

59

The Meticulous Art of Chundri

64

Cuisine

72 to 74

Kartarpura Food Street

69

The Rosy Pink Kashmiri Chai

72

72

A Quarterly Publication Volume 3, issue 2 CHIEF EXECUTIVE & CHIEF EDITOR Tahawur Husain Jafri MANAGING EDITOR AVM (R) Ijaz Mahmood Malik HI(M), SI(M)

Editor’s Note

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Shams Uddin ADVISORY BOARD MEMBERS Tariq Suleman - History and Heritage Tanveer Ahmed - Cuisines Shams Uddin – Destinations & Experiences Ivan G. Somlai – International Development Huma Wasiq – Artistic Expression SUB-EDITOR Saira Z. Jafri SOCIAL MEDIA AND CONTENT MANAGER Rida Hussain DIRECTOR SALES Muhammad Zubair Khan MARKETING MANAGER Zulfiqar Husain Jafri CREATIVE HEAD Milana Veselinovic EVERYTHING DIGITAL Kiran Zahid PRINTED BY Danish Printer, Karachi, Pakistan ADVERTISING AND DISTRIBUTION Strings Media (Pvt) Ltd #6 Aries Tower, Muree Road, Rawalpindi info@fascinatingpakistan.com +92 51 2372151

Dear Readers,

T

he land of Pakistan holds a special meaning for the residents here.

It has a magic that lifts up the spirit and puts a smile on your face.

This quarter, we unveil some of the magical sights that take us back to the glorious past; the Tomb of Jehangir with its architectural splendor, the beauty of Faiz Mahal in Khairpur, the stately tomb of Allama Iqbal, next to Badshahi mosque and the aplomb of the Flag Staff House in Karachi. An inside of the Wazir Khan Mosque is presented here with a unique view of its structure, layout and the expanse of it.

Moving on, some of the outdoor activities take center stage including the adventurous trek along the famous Chitta Khatta Lake, Baqar Lake and Shogran. For cultural enthusiasts, a take-home souvenir guide with amazing traditional and cultural pieces is indeed a treasure trove. Likewise, a wrap of chunri delves into what this colourful world offers and the magnificent allure of its charm.

Last, but not the least, our cuisine explores the delicacy of Kashmiri Chai that remains quintessential during winter season in Pakistan. A trip to Kartarpur Food Street in Rawalpindi is a feast in itself.

One of the fascinating festivals that we feature her is the Shandur Polo Festival that has become a pride for Pakistan. We take you to the Shandur polo ground, to the helm of winning the best of what it offers.

Happy reading!

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6 | APR - JUNE 2023

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[ M AG I C A L J O U R N E Y S ]

FAIZ MAHAL A symbol of peace and tranquillity Text by Abdul Ghani Photo courtesy: Amar Guriro

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The grand entrance welcomes the visitors

T

he splendour of Khairpur is beyond its political landscape. The famous date-producing city stretching over 15,910 square kilometres has always been a prominent district of the southern province of Pakistan. The district is rich in political and religious history and remarkable cultural architecture. The famous Pir Pagara Family, Sachal Sarmast, the fort of Kot Digi, and majestic Faiz Mahal are the symbols of Khairpur Mir. Faiz Mahal is a specimen of King of Talpur Dynasty that Mir Sohrab Talpur had it built in 1789, as a symbol of the sovereign court of the dynasty ruling in Sindh. It is now the residence of His Highness Mir Murad Ali Khan Talpur ll, together with his sons Prince Abbas Raza Talpur and Prince Mehdi Raza Talpur. The glamour and fascination that the Mahal holds is nondescript.

Turning a steep curve on the gravel-shorn road that must have previously been ornamented by royal cars transporting even more regal way brings Faiz Mahal in all its refurbished splendour into view.

The dewan style jhoola to relax

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The building’s history and architectural characteristics were not considered until quite recent times despite being an important edifice. A meticulous restoration project has brought the Faiz Mahal back to life after it had been abandoned for many years. The once decaying structure, now stands with grace.

The inside of this palace is adorned with paintings of flowers in various arrangements. The artistic sensibilities of the palace’s original functions are reflected in the combination of painted wood and little mirrors that cover the ceilings.

The main room of the palace is additionally embellished with lacquer pillars that have been painted.

The white dignitary hall of the Talpurs is easily recognizable by its stucco work, which is also one of its defining characteristics.

Intricate carvings adorn the surface of the wooden doors as well. Mural paintings adorn the walls of almost every palace built by Talpur family built in the Khairpur State. Wellpreserved hunting of Lion by Talpur Kings during 1919 is the semblance of Kings’ hobby for hunting.

In addition to Faiz Mahal, Shahi Mahal, and White guest house that are reserved for special dignitaries, the palace of Bali, also known as the Bali Jo Bungalow, is another architectural masterpiece created by the Talpur dynasty.

The opulent waiting room

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The expanse of the palace

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Bungalow of Bali Within walking distance of Khairpur Town’s train station is where you’ll find the Bungalow of Bali.

The use of stucco in conjunction with mural painting creates a stunning effect. The walls that encircle the Bungalow of Bali, also known as Dilshad Manzil, are made of stone.

Mir Ali Nawaz Khan Talpur, who reigned from 1921 to 1935, was said to have built it as a tribute to his devoted wife Bali, Iqbal Begum, at that time. Mir Sahab had married Bali, a singer from Lahore and had brought her to live with him.

His affection for her surpassed to the point that he preferred spending time with her rather than do rituals of the working day. It was known that Mir Sahab and Bali would often go on boat rides to enjoy sunset.

Mir Ali Nawaz Khan Talpur was known as a generous soul who greatly supported arts and architecture. During his brief reign of just 14 years, he was responsible for the construction of several tombs, palaces, and schools, of which some continue to dominate the topography of Khairpur Town.

Taking permission from the attendants before visiting the Mahal is necessary, serving tea and cookies to visitors has been a norm by the attendants and administration of Faiz Mahal.

Entering the main hall of the Mahal gives an omen of the opulence and charisma of the Talpur Dynasty.

The ceiling of the hall is a panorama of intricate hand-painted motifs and the splendour of glasses add to the beauty of the Mahal. Placed on the four sides of the Hall, glass-packed boxes show the collage of historical images and treaties that the Talpur Kings had with the other kings of India and beyond.

The famous treaty of annexation of the State of Khairpur to Pakistan signed between Ali Nawaz Khan Talpur and Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah is also placed in the

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The dining hall

palace in its original form. These relics consisted of letters written in long hands, signed treaties, photographs of royal weddings, and some pictures of elegantly dressed women which seemed to be a tribute to the status of women in days when their visibility would have been a rare feat.

The courtyard of the Mahal is an excellent depiction of the opulence of art and architecture of the 18th century. It is a rare space that shows love for nature and gardening by the royal kings in the 18th century.

The acreage of land in Faiz Mahal has relics speaking of the glory of the Talpur Dynasty. The antique gun mounted within the compound is an excellent depiction of Talpur’s reception for dignitaries and other kings.

On the left side of the courtyard at the corner, beautiful and soothing sounds of birds are heard even today. The melody of sound is enjoyable and soul soothing that gives an omen of peace and tranquillity. The raconteurs of Faiz Mahal share that the Talpur kings used to sit in the courtyard in the evening times and spent time with those birds, fed them, and used to enjoy the melody of those birds.

On the right side of the white florescent and well-adorned Mahal, there exists a courtyard where different breeds of horses are domesticated. Interestingly, a descendant of family servants of the Talpur dynasty told that the lineage

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of horses is the same as it was during the 18th century. The beautification and shining white colour branded horses speak of the wonder majesty and wonderfulness of the Taj Mahal.

Sitting in the courtyard, listening to the melody of birds, and looking at the haughty movements of horses has a bracing effect for the visitor.

About the Writer Abdul Ghani is a journalist and a graduate of School of Economics, Quaid-i-Azam University, Islamabad. Ghani is an independent researcher and columnist based in Islamabad.

His interests include studying the political economy, history, culture and politics of national and international affairs.

[ M AG I C A L J O U R N E Y S ]

The Marvel of Chitta Katha Lake

By Amna Arshad

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T

he thought of leaving behind the congestion of the city, the uproar and tumult, the intolerable noise of traffic and the mundane routines of this urban life brings a bracing effect on the mind.

Going on an “All girl’s trip” and travelling miles and miles in the company of friends was my dream for years. But the hustle and bustle of life never gave me the chance, until I joined KMC Hiking Club. The moment I joined it, the traveller inside me took a deep breath of peace knowing that some good has been done.

Our hiking club decided to take 38 girl trekkers to the Chitta Katha Lake, Shounter Valley, Azad Kashmir. Azad Kashmir is often called as “Heaven on Earth”. It is situated in the north of Pakistan.

The area around Chitta Katha lake has lush green, fertile and scenic mountain valleys, which are the characteristics of its beauty. It has diverse ethnicity and a beautiful culture just like its people.

Majority of locals speak Pahari language. The valley is mainly known for their handicrafts, poetry and carpet weaving.

A trip to the valley made us witness stunning wooden architecture in house and shops in middle of green fields.

Chitta Katha in regional language means “White Stream”. It

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is 13,500 feet above sea level. The lake is accessible from July till September.

The Route We followed the route from Peshawar to Rawalpindi to Muzaffarabad to Arang Kel to Chitta Katha Lake and then returned from Shounter to Taobut to Kheran to Islamabad and finally back to Peshawar.

Start of the adventure Day1: On first day, the girls gathered in the ground of Khyber Medical College at 4pm. Luggage was loaded in our bus, snacks bought and cable fitted. The whole night was spent in travelling; the quiet atmosphere, cool breeze and a sky full of stars were a meditation on its own.

Day 2: Around 7am we reached Muzaffarabad and stayed at a hotel. A breakfast alongside Neelum River amidst the pleasant weather just purely complimented it. After our short stay at Muzaffarabad hotel, we continued our travel to Kel. On reaching Kheran, our journey came to a temporary halt with an unfortunate land sliding few kilometres away from our bus. Hence the team decided to rent few rooms in Kheran for the night.

Day 3: Early morning at 5am, we left for Kel and reached there at 4pm. Mingling with the locals and enjoying the famous Kashmiri Chai (Pink Tea) with them was indeed an

experience. We also got a change to wander around the local market and buy souvenirs.

Day 4: Our journey started towards Arang Kel. It is a heavenly meadow 2km away from town of Kel. It is 8379fts above sea level. The trek to Arang Kel is very steep, curvy and rocky. It is quite challenging at few spots. You can also take a ride on a horse if it becomes too hard to handle but the struggle is all worth it in the end.

Day 5: We left Kel for our true adventure early morning.

We hired jeeps to Chitta Khata Base camp. It is a rough single track of 20km. After reaching the camp, we mentally prepared ourselves for the REAL ARDUOUS TREK. Before starting we hired our guide as the trail is properly chalked out. We hired six porters and one guide. The route passes through stony mountains, you have to trek up the mountain and then down. On your way you will find a stream.

The breath-taking view of snow-capped peaks, mysterious mornings and rosy sunsets with vast fields all around you, renders it a sight worth seeing.

Arang Kel Coming back from Arang Kel was quite an adventure as on our way back we were caught by heavy shower, yet another adventure! Rain made the already very difficult trek very slippery. After quite a few slips and bruises we decided to take the famous chairlift as it was getting dark and late.

The chairlift is no joke. It is a handmade metal cuboid with two benches on either side that can only lift six to seven people. It’s just like a toy hanging 200+ feet above ground.

The chairlift gives a mesmerizing aerial view of dense green forest, the sound of gushing water flowing underneath and the refreshing air makes it a once in a lifetime experience.

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Chitta Katha Lake with Hariparbat peak in the background

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Chitta Katha Base Camp As we moved ahead the trek became steeper. Now we had to climb not only with feet but with our hands too. On the way one can see purple flowers all around that give a pleasant touch to your experience. As we moved ahead the trek got steeper but no one ever claimed reaching Chitta katha is an easy job. We had to cross a patch of snow to reach the main place. It took us almost eight hours to reach our destination but the view is unimaginably beautiful.

We pitched our tents for the night and camped. The weather was chilly and freezing. We spent the night under the stars. This is the scene I can never get out of my head.

Day 6: Next morning after breakfast we headed back to the base camp. Besides all these pleasures of hiking, the opportunity of having mental peace in the wilderness is one of the best and healthiest things.

From Base camp we took jeeps towards the Shounter valley.

The zigzag road was so narrow it barely had space for two vehicles to cross. However, our driver was quite skilled.

From our camp area we could see the Hariparbat peak. It stands 5000m high in the south of Nanga Parbat. It is the second highest peak in Neelum Valley on the edge of Azad Kashmir and Gilgit Baltistan. Witnessing this majestic monstrosity will give you goosebumps.

Day 7: After making beautiful memories at Shounter we headed back towards Taobut. The road to Taobut is rough but accessible. It is the nearest location from where Neelam River enters the Pakistani territory. At this point we were all drained, having no energy to move even a single muscle but in order to reach our hotel we had to cross the bridge.

It’s a beautiful suspension bridge but also terrifying at the same time. Taobut is insanely beautiful with greenery all around bordered by snow covered peaks.

Day 8: Stay at Taobut was our last in the valley of Azad Kashmir. The grandeur of this area, the aesthetic of local buildings, all just felt like a dream. Taobut has fish farms, specifically of Trout. You can literally go to any nearby area and find one. The serenity of this place is unimaginable.

In morning we had our breakfast, played some games and explored the area. Then packed our luggage and sat in our vehicle to start our journey back.

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Shounter Valley

“Azad Kashmir has always been more than a mere place. It has the quality of an experience, or a state of mind, or perhaps an ideal,” Jan Morris: a Welsh historian, author and travel writer on Azad Kashmir

About the Author And this is how our journey came to an end with loads of memories stored in our hearts. We hit the roads back to Peshawar sunburnt, tired, sleepy yet glowing with happiness.

The early morning sunrise, the shimmery snow, the chirping birds, the cloudy sky and the cold breeze, this is what a regular morning in “Beautiful Azad Kashmir” looks like.

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Amna Arshad has served as the Joint Secretary of Khyber Medical College Hiking Club from 2021 to 2022.

Being an avid traveller and trekker, she loves to explore the natural beauty of Northern areas of Pakistan and its people.

[ M AG I C A L J O U R N E Y S ]

A Wonderland of Sindh

By Asif Ali

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Sunset view at Baqar Lake

E

xploring Sindh is a fascination indeed as it brings you face to face with the vibrant culture and rich heritage of this land.

Sindh is the best place for travelers who wish to explore something besides mountains, peaks, plains, and plateaus, in solitude and peace.

I set off from my hometown in Punjab via train to meet my friends in Ghotki from where we had planned our threeday trip. For the next three days, we traveled from Ghotki to Nagarparkar.

The Journey begins After reaching Ghotki, our main destinations were Sukkur and Rohri. Sukkur, besides being a small city, holds cultural and historical significance. There are plenty of places to explore including the famous Lansdowne Bridge, Sukkur Barrage, and Date Palm Orchards of Khairpur Mirs. The historical remains of Nawab Shah, Sanghar, Umarkot, Mirpur Khas, Mithi, and Islamkot are a sight indeed.

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The most captivating sight was that of Baqar Lake, situated 30km from Sanghar city. The lake is an hour’s drive from Sanghar and a four-hour drive from Karachi.

The Striking Ecosystem The striking visual and refreshing breeze at the Baqar Lake takes away all the tiredness of the journey.

Baqar Lake is located at the tail end of the Nara canal which starts from Sukkur Barrage near Achro City (doorstep to the Thar Desert). The lake is now part of Chutiari Dam hence the area is generally known as Chutiari reservoir and is often given the title of ‘Wonder Land of Sindh’. This area has been given this status especially due to its diverse ecosystem.

There are six lakes namely Akanwari, Tajar, Phuleli, Sari and Sao Naro, and Baqar in this area. After the construction of the Chutiari Dam, Baqar Lake and other lakes became part of the dam.

Makhi Forest Baqar lake is one of the unique lakes because of its interesting geography. The lake has multiple islands, some accessible through a boat ride. Some of these islands are populated and hold immense potential as tourist islands with water sport facilities.

Junejo Haveli

The region surrounding the lake is declared a wildlife sanctuary. The fauna of the lake consists of 109 species of migrated birds and 58 species of reptiles including crocodiles. More than 20 species of small and large mammals are found in the surroundings of the lake including wild Boars and Fox. Away from the population, the lake offers an enchanting starry night sky, a perfect delight for stargazers.

One such island in Baqar Lake has the remains of the Junejo ki Haveli (Palace). An old structure is accessible after a 15 to 20 minutes boat ride. Locals say the palace belonged to the wealthy Junejo tribe that migrated from Rajputana. The palace was built in 1937.

The palace was destroyed by the owner Faiz Muhammad Junejo when the British decided to make it their headquarters. The ruined palace standing on an island in the middle of the lake lends a captivating sight.

Makhi Forest Another attraction for history lovers is the famous Makhi Forest situated on the bank of Baqar Lake. Here the famous Hurs established their base against the British colonials in Sindh. It was used as a hideout for the Hurs while they were persecuted. The tomb of Hur Movement’s leader Shah Mardan Shah is also situated near Baqar Lake. Historical Makhi Forest is named after small bees which make their honeycombs in the trees inside the forest. The forest is valued for its rich honey, medicinal plants and woods.

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A Comfortable Stay

Activities at the Lake

The Sindh tourism Department has established a resort to facilitate the tourists at Baqar Lake. The resort is furnished and has air-conditioned bedrooms with a view of the lake, luxury suites, a terrace, parking and a dining room.

A speedboat facility is also arranged for the tourists and visitors. It is a wonderful experience when you are sailing on the lake and have the visual sight of Achro Desert (White Sand Desert) surrounding the lake. Here, the crystal-clear water of the lake meets with the white sand of Thar.

Eating Out and Local Delicacy Sanghar is famous for the freshwater Rohu, locally known as Kuriro, that is farmed from Chotiari Dam. Sumptuous fish Sajji is a delicacy of this place. This is the famous dish of Sanghar that attracts travelers and tourists from across Pakistan.

Sajji, a way of slow roasting meat which is popular in the Sanghar district of Sindh and neighbouring Balochistan, is traditionally reserved for lamb and goat dishes, but Abdul Jabbar Allah, a local chef tried it on Rohu, a freshwater fish species common to the region only to become a food writer, vloggers and culinary adventurists magnet.

Other much liked local dishes are Fish curry, Sindhi Briyani, Sindhi Curry, Sabu Dal Chawar (yellow daal with rice), and Bhee (simply means ‘lotus root’ in English). A high-quality lotus root is grown in the north of Sindh which is then cooked in clay-pot using various spices, which then results in an excellent delicacy that is famous all over Pakistan.

A beautiful view along the resorts

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About the Author Asif Ali is an explorer and an enthusiastic traveler with a keen interest to promote railway tourism in Pakistan. Heritage of Pakistan is his prime focus.

He is currently exploring and visiting places in Sindh and Balochistan.

[ M AG I C A L J O U R N E Y S ]

The Pristine Beauty of Mahodand Lake

By Fazal Khaliq

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P

erched amid high peak mountains of the Hindukush range in Ushu Matiltan valley, the emerald green Mahodand Lake is not only known for its serene environment and paradisiacal landscape but it is also a popular scenic resort for anglers and pescatarian where they can find an abundance of the best trout fish. Lake is a rich source of brown and rainbow trout.

Mahodand Lake means a fish lake which can be reached through a 35 Km dirt track zigzagging along the gushing river from Kalam valley. It is one of the most visited lakes in Pakistan and is always thronged with tourists from across the country and abroad. The lake lies at an elevation of about 9603 feet and extends about two kilometers.

Though the track to the lake is rugged and bumpy, yet the views along the route comprises spectacular landscapes, clouds resting on the mountain peaks, roaring waterfalls, streams and river of crystal-clear water, cool water springs, lush green meadows and calm lakes which add to the thrill of the journey and as a tourist rightly puts it, make the experience an adventurous one. Lake is a good escape from heat in summer for people living in other parts of the country.

The journey from Kalam to Mahodand is amazing as it offers multiple attractions to those who love nature. You cannot move past a scene which captures you with its magical beauty and believe me there are hundreds of enthralling scenes which force you to stop to take selfies and photographs.

One could not ignore a beautiful and unique scene on the way to Mahodand Lake which was why the 35 Km distance was often covered in three to four hours. It often gets

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difficult to distinguish if the scene is real or a painting-such is the magnificence of the lake. Words may not do justice to the landscape of the Mahodand Lake and its surrounding areas.

However, passing through unending scenic landscapes at both the sides of the track with multiple charms the first view of the lake is no more than a beatitude. The first sight of the lake is wonderful as a window of a vast cinematic view opens in front of you once you enter the boundary of the lake. A huge and calm water body with cedar trees at both ends, a lush green meadow at the right side with dozens of boats moving across, a colorful tent city to facilitate tourists and snowcapped mountains at the back drop welcome you. Boating is the favorite activity of the tourists at Mahodand Lake.

Mahodand Lake with the snowy mountains at the back

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A complete tent city with makeshift restaurants has been established to facilitate the tourists. One can see many small groups and families busy enjoying the lush green valley. Pink and yellow flowers around the lake multiply the beauty of the lake. Many tourists enjoy riding horses while others relish boat rides on the lake.

It is worth visiting this spot where one could enjoy multiple retreats— respite from scorching heat in the summer season, mesmerizing views of the lake, scent of wild flowers waving amid grasslands and the tranquil of the environment. This is simply a site which does not offer a lake view alone but offers manifold retreats to what a nature lover wants.

One should not limit themselves to the wonders of Mahodand lake but go beyond it. Kundalshai, another small lake would await them with a more pristine landscape which is just a 10-minute drive from Mahodand Lake.

The more you go beyond Mahodand Lake, the more you find nature wonders with charms which cannot be expressed in words. There are several wildflower meadows which attract people and plunge them into tranquil embrace with pure nature.

Tourists also go to Donchar waterfall from Mahodand Lake. The waterfall is six kilometers away from Mahodand Lake. One can travel to Donchar Lake in a jeep from Kalam. A glacier and a small waterfall greet the tourists on the way to the lake.

On the way to Donchar waterfall, small wildflower meadows located along the gushing river of emerald green water offer captivating views to the visitors. It would definitely leave the most cherished memories among the visitors.

Words cannot describe the beauty of the enchanting lake and awe-inspiring noise of the waterfalls in the entire valley from Kalam to Mahodand lake and then to Donchar waterfall. The entire valley is a heaven on earth. With better infrastructure, the number of tourists visiting the Mahodand Lake is multiplying each year.

About the Author Fazal Khaliq is a journalist and research writer with a focus on culture, terrorism, tourism and archaeology. He is the author of nine books and loves travelling frequently to beautiful destinations within Pakistan.

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[ M AG I C A L J O U R N E Y S ]

SHOGRAN A Must Visit Hill Station of Kaghan Valley

By Fazal Khaliq

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Kaghan Valley is one of the most scenic tourist areas of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province of Pakistan. This 160-kilometer-long valley is the most popular summer holiday resort for the thousands of tourists from the down country. The valley’s landscape features pine forests, alpine meadows, crystal clear lakes and cool mountain streams.

Kunhar River, the main feature of the valley, is famous for its trout. Nestled along the banks of the river are the towns of Balakot, Kewai, Paras, Mahandari, Kaghan and Naran.

Among the scenic places, Shogran is one of the most popular and loveliest tourist destinations of Kaghan Valley.

Blessed with captivating all around natural beauty, the strikingly beautiful plateau is an earthly paradise for the visitors.

Surrounded by thick pine forests and with an altitude of 2,362 meters (7,747 feet), the summer climate of Shogran is very mild and pleasant. A peaceful and beautiful place to visit in Shogran is the lush green lawns of the old forest rest house.

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The view of the rest house

From the rolling grassy lawns of the rest house, one can have breathtaking panoramic views of snow-covered mountains in the western and northern sides. Kaghan Valley’s highest peaks, such as Musa Ka Musalla (4,419m), Makra (3,885m) and Malika Parbat (5,290m), are visible from here.

A pleasant day excursion from Shogran is a visit to Sari and Paya. A rugged 8 km jeep road climbs 2,300 feet through thick pine forest to the top of Paya ridge, a vast expanse of undulating alpine meadows with spectacular views of Makra Mountain and Malika Parbat. In summer this place is full of wild alpine flowers which grow everywhere on the rolling grassy slopes of Paya.

From Paya, visitors can go for a day long hiking trip to climb the Makra (Spider) Mountain, which is 4,419 meters from sealevel. This mountain climb is recommended only for those who have previous experience in high altitude hiking and are familiar with the mountain wilderness safety rules.

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Sari is a small lake on the way to Paya. One can stop here for a while for rest and have some refreshments at a local tea stall along the jeep road. This place also has a small forest rest house. Travelers can enjoy a hot cup of tea from one of the stalls while soaking in the majestic views of snow covered mountains reflected in the lake.

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Shogran is situated at a distance of 34 km from Balakot via Kawai. From Balakot which is the gateway town of Kaghan Valley, the main road up the valley climbs quite rapidly, along the Kunhar River. This scenic route winds its way to Kawai (24km from Balakot) in around one hour.

Kawai is a small village beautifully located along the mountain side with fruit orchards and groves of walnut trees. It is the place from where an 8 km road branches off towards right for Shogran.

The road from Kewai to Shogran is quite steep and presently suitable for only 4x4 jeeps.

The visitors who are travelling by cars and vans can leave their vehicles in the parking areas at Kewai and take a jeep

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from there to reach Shogran which costs around Rs.3000/for one way trip. The best time to visit Shogran is from April to September when the is mostly pleasant and the landscape of this area looks most beautiful.

Shogran has many hotels of different categories which provide comfortable boarding and lodging facilities for the visitors. Arcadian Resort, Pine Park Resort Hotel, Cedar Wood Resorts, Lalazar Hotel and Peradize Guest House are among some of the best places to stay at Shogran.

About the Author Aftab Rana is a Tourism Development Specialist.

He is the President of Sustainable Tourism Foundation Pakistan and a Vice President of Adventure Foundation Pakistan. He is also presently serving as Honorary Managing Director of PTDC. He is also a Fellow of Leadership for Environment and Development.

[ T R E A S U R E T R OV E ]

Walnut Wood Craft

By Rida Hussain

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T

he craft of wood carving has existed in this region for years even before the creation of Pakistan. Woodcraft is counted among the major handicrafts of Pakistan. This craft of carving wood into different shapes and sizes with intricate designs is prevalent in several parts of the country from north to south.

What makes walnut wood unique?

Originally, walnut wood is hygroscopic implying that it absorbs moisture in the air to maintain a pleasant environment indoors which makes it the best raw material for making products related to home décor.

The significance of wooden architecture takes a considerable space in the heritage of Pakistan. Several historical structures are made with wood in Pakistan. Azad Kashmir, Swat, parts of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit Baltistan, and Chiniot are the areas in Pakistan where the art of wood carving is prevalent and is a lucrative business.

The Famous Works Interestingly, wooden architecture is an integral part of the Wakhi culture of Gilgit Baltistan. The Gojal valley in Gilgit Baltistan is home to numerous wooden architectures.

Chaqchan Mosque in Gilgit Baltistan and Thal mosque in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa are among the prominent wooden structures in Pakistan. Also, there are several old buildings in downtown Rawalpindi dating back to the Mughal era which are made of walnut wood. Artisans execute their mastery of carving wood into delicate pieces and designs using various types of woods grown in Pakistan.

Walnut wood is resistant to humid and dry climates. It is durable and gives an aesthetic look. Walnut Wood is used to create small decoration pieces for large size beds, furniture, and doors. There is now a growing trend of walnut wood walls as well.

Types of wood that are widely used in construction in Pakistan are Deodar, walnut wood, teak, chirpine, fir, and hemlock. Walnut wood stands out in the category for not being too soft or too hard. Artisans call walnut wood the ‘jack of all trades. It smells great hence it is preferred in home décor or making products that are used in the

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interior decoration of homes and architecture.

Walnut is hard, heavy, resilient, and capable of resisting warping and suffering very little shrinkage. It is a strong wood that can take intricate carving. The grain of walnut wood is irregular but typically straight with a medium texture.

The creation of rabab requires a lot of skills and attention to meticulous details and intricacy hence walnut wood is best suited to make the instrument. Walnut wood is easy to bend and finish hence it makes the best raw material to create musical instruments.

A wooden Rabab

In Pakistan, the walnut trees natively grow mainly in Swat, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. The walnut wood has different shades but it mostly comes in dark red and pinkish colors.

A skilled artisan can make several items from walnut wood.

From creating furniture, walnut wood is used to create lightweight objects like jewelry boxes, spoons to heavy objects like trunks, small chairs, tables, sofas, beds, and cupboards, trays, dry fruit bowls, tissue paper boxes, and table lamps.

Mostly walnut wood pieces with Quranic verses inscribed on them are in high demand in Pakistan as people hang these in homes. Artisans say that the old carved walnut wood looks better than other types of wood, hence it is in demand.

Artisans say designs and patterns can be carved on any wood but walnut wood is best for the purpose. Hence, products made up of walnut wood are often seen as having the most intricate and complex carvings. This quality of walnut wood gives a regal and luxurious look to the interior.

Rabab-a classical instrument We all love the melody of rabab but did you know walnut wood is used to make rabab? Rabab largely dominates the region of Pukhtoon settlements and is widely played in Pakistan. The wood from the walnut tree are dried up and then carved into the instrument.

The Cultural Identity of Azad Kashmir In Azad Jammu Kashmir of Pakistan, walnut trees grow abundantly. Leepa Valley and Neelum Valley of Azad Kashmir are two major walnut producing areas. The significance of the craft of walnut wood can be measured by the fact that people place orders for walnut wood furniture in advance during the wedding season. Here, in Kashmir handing out items made from walnut wood to guests and tourists is considered a precious gift. Natives of Azad Kashmir believe walnut wood carving is part of their identity and culture which they have inherited from their forefathers.

Muzaffarabad has the potential to become the hub of walnut furniture, says the native population. Locals suggest that with concerted efforts of the government the small market can grow into an industry that can generate revenues for Pakistan. Artisans in Azad Kashmir say they are working hard to keep the craft alive.

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[ T R E A S U R E T R OV E ]

Take Home Souvenir

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ravelling within Pakistan is a culturally rich experience. There are plenty of things to do, shopping being one that gives a chance to explore beautiful and traditional handicraft of

Pakistan.

Some of the amazing souvenirs to take back home, which are easy on the pocket and equally a great décor item include the following:

gift to be given to young children on Eid. Some of these clay gulluks can be purchased without design, which can easily be used as an art project for children.

Beautiful and simple, these Gulluks can be used in your sitting areas as a decoration item, reminding you of the beauty of the land and the intrinsic labour that goes into it. The other items of clay include an earthen pot (Matka) which is widely used to store water at homes. The types of handmade items based on earthenware found in this region are very unique and it hardly exist in any other part of the world.

choose your gulluck

Chamak patti

The Gulluk With our traditional vibrant designs of petals, flowers and birds, these amazingly designed gulluks (piggy banks), made of clay is one of the items to take home.

These gulluks are made abundantly in the villages and cottage industry of Pakistan and are sold in many areas on carts along with other clay items. These gulluks are famous for being used as a piggy bank to save pennies. An excellent

The patterns of Chamak Patti are trendy. Their striking appeal is complimented by eye-catching colours. Various items of Chamak Patti are available in Pakistan including key chains, frames, boxes, vases, bags, jewelry and lamps.

A: Chamakpatti is traditional sticker art, commonly done on local rickshaws, trucks and buses. The beauty of chamakpatti is enhanced by how it reflects and radiates different shades of a color under different sources of light.

The artisans cut eye-catching red, orange, blue, green and yellow plastic reflector stickers sheets into shapes. The shapes are then made into patterns and affixed onto tin sheets or on engraved metal that cover the trucks or buses exteriors.

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Chamakpatti coasters

a traditional tote bag

A Tote Bag Cotton from the lush green agricultural fields of Punjab is passed through the process of spinning to create thread which is locally known as souturr. This thread is then woven to create the cloth necessary for making cotton tote bags called qora latthha in the technical language of the industry.

The term latthha is used to refer to rough quality of cloth made from cotton.

Cotton tote bags Made in Pakistan are one of the best in the world because of the pure cotton used in their making. The latest trend is to print a traditional emblem or a motif on the bag which can easily be used as a fashion statement. It is easy to carry home and is an excellent gift for all ages; can be used to carry books easily.

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[ T R E A S U R E T R OV E ]

A Manmade Forest

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ocated 80 km south west of Lahore is Changa Manga, which once held the distinction of being the largest man-made forest in the world. The Changa Manga forest can be entered from a road off the N-5 Highway near Bhai Pheru and Chunian. At present, the forest covers an area of 48.6 square kilometres.

Named after two brothers – Changa and Manga – who were well known for thievery in the area, the forest was originally planted in 1866 by British foresters and the wood from the trees was used as fuel. However, the chief purpose

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of the forest and the reason it was planted was to provide resources for the wood burning steam locomotives of the North-Western Railway.

Also known for being one of the oldest hand planted forests in the world, Changa Manga is host to 14 species of mammals, 50 species of birds, six species and reptiles, two species of amphibians and 27 species of insects. Therefore it is not just an important source of timber of the area but also a wildlife reserve.

• From Islamabad: Via Lahore-Islamabad M2 Motorway (437 km, roughly a 5-hour drive) • From Lahore: Via N-5 Highway (80 km, a little less than a two-hour drive) • From Sahiwal: Via N-5 Highway (110 km, around a twohour drive) • From Multan: Via M4 and Lahore’s M3 Motorway (approximately 310 km, roughly a 4-hour drive)

The forest serves as a conservation and breeding centre for the critically endangered species of Asiatic vultures, (white-rumped vultures). It hosts a conservation centre in association with WWF SAVE (Saving Asia’s Vultures from Extinction) programme, an international effort.

Some parts of the forest have been transformed into a recreation park with a railroad. The forest keepers developed the recreational park for the visitors. A 5-kilometer train joyride is available on a miniature train passing through the forest, and it has become a major tourist attraction, especially for children. There are other attractions too, like the waterfall, water turbine, a children’s play area, and boating is allowed on a lake named Lunar Lake.

REACHING CHANGA MANGA WILDLIFE PARK Enjoying a central location in Punjab, the Changa Manga forest can be reached by using the following routes.

With ample greenery, a wide range of natural vegetation, incredible wildlife species and different types of exciting outdoor activities, the Changa Manga forest has become a popular tourist attraction.

The entry to this wildlife reserve is free, however, you may have to pay ticket prices ranging from PKR 20 to PKR 400 for availing the recreation facilities available inside the park.

The unperturbed natural environment of changa manga wildlife park with a variety of trees and animal species also makes this game reserve an interesting place to be explored by the individuals studying biological and environmental sciences to benefit their respective fields.

The park is open to tourists throughout the year. It is a beautiful place to visit for picnics, where families may enjoy get-togethers and friends or corporate employees plan outdoor activities. The public swarms this area during national holidays and also to enjoy the special weather and outdoor activities that the park offers.

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[ C U LT U R A L E M B L E M ]

Visiting Flagstaff House Photo courtesy: Shabbir A Jangda

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he yellow brick façade with green wooden frames attracts many visitors to its gate as the Flagstaff House stands as tall as Jinnah’s achievements.

This is the Quaid-e-Azam House, dedicated to the personal life of Muhammad Ali Jinnah located in Karachi, close to Frere Hall. In the hustle bustle of the city, the house is a reminder of what the Quaid did for us.

This house remained the residence of Jinnah from 1944 until his death in 1948. It is known that Mr Jinnah hardly lived at this place but visitied it frequently. His sister, Fatima Jinnah lived there until 1964. It was bought by Jinnah in 1943 at the cost of 150,000 rupees. The building was later acquired in 1985 by the Pakistani government and converted to a museum.

The study room consists of a reading table, chairs, table lamp and some stationery items. A resting sofa is placed at on corner of the room. The shelves made of wood and fine quality glass are decorated with high standard crockery which were used by the Quaid-i-Azam.

The Quaid-i-Azam House is now renovated, and equipped with modern facilities. It is centrally air-conditioned and there is a fire extinguishing unit. Other facilities include burglar alarm system, close circuit TV and film projection facility.

The Department of Archaeology and Museums, the Government of Pakistan and the Public Works Department jointly prepared a comprehensive scheme for renovating and restoring the Quaid-i-Azam House.

The Structure

THE MAIN HOUSE

The structure is built of lime-stone masonry with wooden trusses supporting the roof. Red ceramic Manglore tiles are used at the top to cover the roof. The staircase is all wooden and is in dark brown color. Beautifully coloured tiles are used on the ground floor and wooden planks are used on the first as floor covering.

The main House has been completely renovated and restored but its general character or profile has been maintained intact. Only the roof of ground floor was changed and laid in cement concrete but was provided by refixing the false wooden ceiling and wooden floor on top similar to the original design, using almost 80% old material.

The roof over the 1st floor has been done according to its original plan and finished with red clay tiles.

The Decor Each room is decorated with those relics which Quaid-iAzam used during his lifetime. A finely carved cigarette box of good quality sandalwood is one of the antiques now placed in the house. A big camphorwood box which is skillfully carved on the sides is also placed in the bedroom on the first floor. The sofa sets are preserved in their original form.

On the exterior, missing and damaged portions of columns balusters and balconies have been restored to match the original style and colour. The damaged stone of the building has been replaced with new ones to strengthen the structure. All electric controls have been placed in two control rooms where fire alarm systems will is monitored.

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THE ANNEXE The Annexe originally consisted of four small rooms with a verandah that provided access to the rooms. The flat concrete lintels in the verandah indicate that it was added at some later date. The dividing walls of the rooms have now been removed to provide a large Hall to serve as an Auditorium and Projection Room. The verandah has been retained which opens towards the front garden. Though the roof has been changed, it follows the original profile of the slopping roof and has been finished with clay tiles.

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OUT HOUSE The roof profile and clay tiles finish has been maintained according to the original construction. The front verandah has also been maintained as in the original building. The Out House has been converted into reserves, offices and library.

LIBRARY A small library, containing books about Quaid-i-Azam and Freedom Movement has been established in July, 2003 to facilitate visitors.

GARDEN: The Garden in front and in the back of the Quaid-i-Azam House has been redesigned to serve the requirement of Museum visitors. It has been laid after due repairs and restoration of the water supply system. A number of lights have been provided in the garden for security and also for its use on special occasions.

The Rooms Within On the first floor, there is an open area with a breakfast table, a second ‘upstairs’ drawing room and two bedrooms belonging to Fatima Jinnah and Mr Jinnah respectively.

The rooms are well kept. The second drawing room, most probably reserved for special guests, seems smaller.

Both rooms are too date portray a simplistic and minimilistic feature with very little furniture. Fatima Jinnah’s room also features a separate dressing area.

Mr Jinnah’s room is done in dark-wood furniture. Like his sister’s room, there is only a single bed and a bedside table, with a small sitting area. A pair of his iconic two-tone shoes lay on a rack in the corner.

Mr Jinnah’s house and his possessions contained therein reflect his personal style well.

Visiting Hours: 9.00am to 6.00pm

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[ C U LT U R A L E M B L E M ]

The Prominence of Wazir Khan

Mosque

By Asif Khan

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ahore is one of Pakistan’s oldest cities and is known for its cultural riches. Several mosques, offices, and archives from the Mughal and imperial centuries have been maintained in the city. The majority of these architectures are still in use today. This includes the Wazir Khan Mosque, the most beautiful mosque of the Mughal era. Even now, it is a prominent place of worship.

It is located outside the Delhi gate of Lahore’s walled city, which tourists may approach after walking through the lively bazaar of squabbling sellers’ and customers’ voices.

The elaborate designs gracing the mosque’s walls are a characteristic of Mughal architecture.

Wazir Khan Mosque is among those traditional monuments still functional and one of the most prominent places of worship. Listed on UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List, the Wazir Khan Mosque is among the most beautifully decorated buildings built by ruler Mughal Emperor SHAHJAHAN. The delicate and intricate tile work (known as Kashi-Kari) makes this site a treat to watch. Anyone visiting Lahore makes sure to visit this mosque to get a glimpse of Pakistan’s rich and elegant history.

Historical Significance In the 17th century, Emperor Shahjahan built Wazir Khan Mosque as a symbol of Islamic Culture in Lahore. It was built by Governor “Hakim Sheikh Ilm-Ud-Din Ansari” within the profound neighborhood of the walled city of Lahore.

This mosque is among the most significant buildings of the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan Era. It took seven years to complete this intricate and elegant masterpiece of construction. The Mosque holds a special place in history as the emperor used to pray Friday’s congregational prayers in Masjid Wazir Khan although it is located at a distance from Lahore Fort. A particular walking trail made of red bricks was built leading from the fort via Delhi Gate towards Wazir Khan for the King.

Architecture And Design The period in which this mosque was built is signified as one of the most historical eras regarding cultural innovations and architectural developments. The sophisticated and delicate designs carved on tiles termed Kashi-Kari were the signature style of buildings built in that period.

The massive courtyard had been marked with four grandeur minarets which enhance its beauty.

The minarets are built in octagonal design, adding magnificence to the majestic construction of the mosque.

It was built around the Tomb of Sufi Saint Syed Muhammad Ishaq Gazrooni, commonly known as Miran Badshah among the people. His renowned Tomb is now preserved under the basement in the courtyard of the Mosque. He was a Saint of the 14th century from Iran, yet he lived and then laid to rest in the walled city of Lahore during Turkish – the Tughluq era.

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construction style; that is why you will see walls made of red bricks, which was the traditional material used for building walls of houses, mosques, and mansions.

The central prayer area is the largest hall built on Persian architectural standards. The octagonal Char-Taq, or four arches, serves as pillars for the large dome of the mosque that had been exquisitely designed with murals representing Muslims’ idea of heaven. The frescoes are slightly different from other Mughal-era buildings as the fusion of Islamic and Punjabi culture can be seen within these murals.

The main structure can be sectioned into three parts: • Entrance, • Courtyard, and • Prayer area.

The mosque’s courtyard also comprises an enormous marketplace with many holy book bindings and amending shops. Also, around the neighborhood you can find calligraphy shops that can paint calligraphic portraits of Quran verses and Sufi sayings. The profit from these shops had been dedicated to the maintenance and development of the mosque.

After passing through the market, you will walk in front of an enormous entrance or rectangular-shaped gate with balconies extending toward the left and right; the wide entrance leads to a covered octagonal area called Calligrapher’s bazaar. The exterior of the arched entrance is decorated with the Quran verses, the sayings of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), and some couplets from Persian poetry. Above the entrance, the Kalma or Muslim faith declaration had been engraved beautifully.

Visitors can enter the mosque’s prayer area by passing through the beautifully preserved, red-bricked bazaar.

Alongside the bazaar, there is a small pool for ablution. Many worshippers use this pool for cleansing before prayers.

Around the courtyard, there are 32 arcades which were dedicated to religious research scholars; these cloisters were famous as “Khanna’s.”

Although the same ruler had built the monuments built in Delhi and Agra, stones were used to construct their walls. Yet, this mosque not only follows those monuments’ architectural footsteps but also incorporates Punjab’s local

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The walls, adorned with Quran verses, give you a sense of spirituality, peace, and tranquility. The distinctive floral patterns (Taza-Kari), majestic architecture, calligraphy, geometrical designs, and mosaic tiles give this mosque a glorious and grand status, marking it an unchallenged place on the UNESCO world heritage list.

Conservation Initiatives Many famous historians and archeologists wrote that the mosque had been neglected; hence they reported about its worn and disrepair condition. Following this, the Government of Punjab (GOP) began conservation and restoration work in 2004.

The GOP maintained its restoration work, and in 2007, the Aga Khan Trust for Culture stepped in. Two years later, in 2009, both parties began an in-depth examination of the mosque as part of a wider initiative to rehabilitate several landmarks around Lahore.

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Conservation work concluded in 2015, when the 3D mapping of the mosque was finished by Lahore University of Management Sciences (LUMS) and the United States Agency for International Development (USAID).

How To Visit Masjid Wazir Khan The mosque is located on the southern side of Shahi Guzargah, commonly known as “Royal Road” in Lahore. It was called after the road that Mughal nobility used on their journey to the imperial palaces at the Lahore Fort.

As you enter Wazir Khan Mosque, you will find a sense of Peace and Spirituality that will give your soul a calm and tranquil fulfillment. Although the outer walls and courtyard need more attention as they have been surrounded by a busy marketplace, damaging the mosque’s grandeur, the history seems to unfold in front of your eyes when you enter the mosque.

Although overly crowded markets and busy streets now surround the mosque, once you enter Wazir Khan Mosque it feels like the door to a peaceful world, and spiritual calmness has opened.

The mosque is located around a hundred meters west of the Delhi Gate. The mosque’s Shahi Hammam, commonly referred as Wazir Khan Hammam, is located here. The mosque overlooks the Chitta Gate and Wazir Khan Chowk, a town plaza.

When you pass through Delhi gate, the ornate minarets will be seen from a far distance, and you can easily reach there.

The other way is to do an unguided tour which is also very easy as you will find signboards that will lead you to the exact place. Also, you can get help through your phone’s GPS-guided map.

About the Author Asif Khan is a young writer who has penned down many features related to lifestyle and tourism in various publications. With an eye for creativity and a passion for travel, Khan’s content adds value for the readers.

There is no separate fee you need to pay to visit the mosque; all you need to know is the times the mosque is open for visitors.

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[ C U LT U R A L E M B L E M ]

A Glimpse at the Tomb of

Jahangir Part II

Text and photos by Huma Wasiq

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n the previous part of this article, I wrote about the Tomb of Jahangir near River Ravi, Lahore. I discussed a bit of its history, its layout plan, gardens, architectural qualities, building material and engineering geniuses.

But there is much more to tell from my field research about this place of much historical value.

sections have their own charbagh style gardens with their own significance. Apart from the enclosed buildings, there are tombs of the grand vizier Asif Khan and empress Noor Jahan.

The gates of this building allowed elephants to enter with the queen and the royals sitting on them to be welcomed under a shower of flowers falling from well-designed small balconies. These balconies have arch windows to allow the guardians and court girls to see and welcome their masters with full royal protocol. Imagine the flower petals falling, lush green gardens blooming, birds chipping, the waterfalls and fountains burbling. The whole atmosphere was created for a special feel.

The most interesting thing about Noor Jahan’s tomb is its underground tunnel which links it to Hiran Minar at Shekhupura on one side while Shalimar Garden to Delhi on another side. This tunnel allows a horse rider to sit on the horse and travel safely underground. These tunnels were closed in different places with the passage of time and the hanging coffin of the Queen was looted. Asif’s tomb is in critical condition, pillaged but still, we can see beautiful plaster work inside the dome and extremely beautiful glazed tile work on the outer walls. The first section of Jahangir’s tomb is just beside Asif Khan’s tomb.

The whole plan of this tomb is divided into three main parts. The mosque, the rest area or the workers’ residence and the main tomb. Simplest to the fanciest. All these three

The Mosque

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the intricate pattern

The simplest section, showing the modesty and purity in relationship between man and Allah, this section contains a mosque.

Once this mosque was decorated with fresco paintings showing gardens from heaven and beautiful marble floors to pray on.

These marbles were decorated with in lay work and special Red Stone was imported from Rajasthan to decorate this mosque but the Sikh period left a lot of damage to it.

The marbles were stolen and the frescos were destroyed.

30 years ago, these walls were whitewashed and today, this fragile white mosque with three domes stands on trembling walls. At the front of the mosque is a small pond with a fountain in the centre which provides water for ablution.

A path between the four gardens leads towards the second section with ornamental plants and better gardens. This section was actually the residential part for servants and also served as a rest area for travelers. Rawalpindi and Lahori Gates are situated face to face in this section.

There are 180 rooms still standing on their arched design.

These rooms were built by emperor Akbar in 1557 and hence known as ‘Saara e Akbari’. The main Gates have two platforms on both sides for guards to stand and are built as double gate for better protection. The gates were decorated with fresco paintings showing flowers and trees.

Unfortunately during the British raj, the main gate was converted into the post office and a train track was laid crossing through both Rawalpindi and Lahori gate. This resulted in damage to plasters and paintings. Only 30% of this area is today inside the walls while 70% has been acquired by locals.

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The magic played by architects and designers keep playing with our minds, especially when we enter the third section.

We started by looking at simplicity then we moved towards the necessity and then we entered the luxury section.

A big entrance gate led us to a beautiful garden. Yes, this is the gate which was used to welcome the royal families.

The garden is in Persian charbag style with fruit trees.

Water channels with falls, pools and fountains all are still functional. In the central crossing of the pathway is a big water reservoir with fountains and small waterfalls.

The water flows in between the pathway.

This path leads towards a four to six steps high platform to enter the main arch of Jahangir’s tomb. The central arch has two side doors with staircases inside. The whole veranda has five more arches on each side of the main arch allowing air to enter from all sides. The four sides of this building have the same architecture. Its design later inspired that of the Taj Mahal. Four minarets with 8 sides and of 100 feet height are designed leaning slightly outwards. They are decorated with zigzag designs.

The river (eastern) side of the monument is less maintained, which allows wild animals like jackals, porcupine and snakes to enter, especially at night. We enter this section with a majestic feel. Originally there was a baradari on rooftop, which was made in Italian white marble. As this marble shines in moonlight one can imagine it along with the rest of the aforementioned features of the tomb and the soft breeze, giving the area a paradise feels.

The roof floor is made up of limestone with inlay work of geometric designs on it. It is 6 to 7 feet thick and constructed without concrete. This 10 kanal wide roof

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age-old patterns on the wall

A beautiful fresco on the ceiling

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had a false cenotaph exactly above the original inside the building. There are two false cenotaphs on each of the top floors, exactly above the original which is underground and is not accessible.

along with his titles: “Nur-ud-Din Muhammad Jahangir Padishah”.

On the ground floor to enter the main grave compound, there are four wooden doors on each side of the building.

Today only the front (western) door is kept open. Inside beautiful fresco walls give amazing impact. Decorated in deep red and blue, the combinations walls are full of fresco work. Yellow, green and deep red roofs are painted in floral designs.

Plaster and glazed tile work can be seen here. Beautiful motives, flora and fauna, architectural designs all painted here. Uzbek and Afghan landscapes are visible on vases painted in frescos of these walls. Kashmiri landscapes with boats and lakes, flowers and trees all are present in these paintings.

About the Writer Moving further inside the building, we need to cross the marble jali gateway. These jalis are cut in honey comb design from single piece of white marble. Crossing these jali we can see the ground floor grave, above which hangs a lantern which was placed in 1910 and was brought from Calcutta. This works with electricity and made in Egyptian style. The original lantern was of gold and decorated with rubies. The whole roof was once decorated by diamonds which are no longer there.

This false cenotaph stone is white marble in one piece decorated with semi-precious stones inlaid into it. We can see 99 names of Allah written in black marble known as ‘Sang e Musa’. The name of the emperor is written in Persian

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Huma Wasiq is a nature artist from Pakistan with MFA degree from the Punjab University. She has received many academic and merit awards, including the Presidential Award and Special Artist Award 2018.

She is also a valued member of the Advisory Board of Fascinating Pakistan.

[ C U LT U R A L E M B L E M ]

Freestyle Polo

By Shams Uddin

The game in full swing

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A band performance before the games

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handur (3,700 m) is where the three mountain ranges—Hindukush, Himalaya, and Karakoram— meet. The region has historic importance with beautiful landscape, flora, and fauna. It is the highest polo ground on earth, where the contest of the rugged free-style polo takes place between the team of Chitral and Gilgit from July 7 to 9 every year, and that attracts national and international tourists, high-profile officials, and diplomats. players in action

The Origin The origin of this unique and historical sport is largely shrouded in mystery; however, some researchers believe the equestrian sport originated and evolved in Central Asia around the 6th century BC to train the cavalry and stimulate a real-life battle. The ruling elites and soldiers initiated the sport to maintain and promote their cavalry skills and use the exercise to prepare themselves physically and mentally for the battlefield.

Since technology has superseded the use of horses in battle, the free-style polo of northern Pakistan is the only surviving cultural sport to remind the battlefields of the medieval era. No rule governs the game played at Shandur and across Chitral and Gilgit Baltistan. It sheerly depends on the stamina of the horse, the skill of the player.

Evelyn Hey Cobb, the British Administrator in Chitral and Gilgit Baltistan, introduced free-style polo at Shandur for the first time in 1935. He played a nighttime match under

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the light of the full moon—a raison d’être to name the polo ground ‘Mas Junali’, in Khowar language, which translates ‘the Moonlit Polo Ground’. Since then, the Shandur event has become a source of cultural and sports connection between the communities living in the Hindukush, Himalaya, and Karakoram mountains, who share a common culture, history, cuisines, dresses, musical heritage, and cultural sports.

The Teams The arch-rival teams of Chitral and Gilgit play at the Shandur festival, the biggest free-style polo contest in the world, let alone Pakistan. Four teams from each region participate.

Every team has six players plus two reserves. Chitral C versus Gilgit C, Chitral B versus Gilgit B, and Chitral A versus Gilgit A are the scheduled matches of the event. The contest between Laspur and Ghizer teams is another exciting event

that quickens the pulse of the public. Spectators from both the valleys, including local women, turn up to support their respective teams.

grand Shandur event.

Besides the thrilling matches of free-style polo at Shandur, The horses are healthy and well-trained. They also gallop the event also features a unique cultural experience and dance to the rhythmic for foreign tourists and sports beats of traditional music, enthusiasts. The cultural which is an integral part of fusion of the Hindukush, the free-style polo matches.

At the end of each contest, the Himalayan, and Karakoram regions with their traditional winning team celebrates the music, cuisines, dresses, and victory with a group dance overall lifestyle in a single to thunderous clapping and space has a tremendous shouts of their supporters. fascination for tourists.

Adventure sports like The event, over the years, has attracted many tourists from paragliding, tandem flights, North America, Central Europe, Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, South Asia, and Southeast Asia. Tour operators boating in the blue lake, and and travel companies abroad enthusiastically schedule the horse-riding, in addition to trip of their clients every year to witness the fiercest polo folk dances, folk music, and contest played in its raw form.

When the Shandur polo event draws to a close, the district indigenous cuisines of Chitral administration in Chitral and Gilgit decide on the final and Gilgit-Baltistan, are the teams for the Shandur polo through a series of preliminary matches in their respective regions to identify and select highlights of the event. the outstanding players and best horses. Players and their supporters attend the district-level polo event from across different villages, tehsils, and districts. The teams then get divided into two pools and play under the strict scrutiny of the Jury to settle disputes, if any. The jury members comprise former polo players, coaches, and community representatives with experience and skills in dispute settlement. The teams reaching the final in their pool play in the final of the district tournament.

During these matches, the Jury members are responsible for keenly observing the tactics, skills, and strength of players and the speed and stamina of their horses—the factors determining the selection of the players for the

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The cultural performances of Chitral and Kalash valleys along that of Gilgit-Baltistan are the high points of the threeday mega event. Enjoying the pleasant but relatively cool nights in camps at Shandur and listening to the traditional music of tabla, sitar and rabab provide the visitors refreshing entertainment day and night.

The picturesque meadows on either side of the Shandur plateau along the snow-topped mountains provide the best opportunity for trekking and picture-taking in the pristine natural environment from the close quarter.

The Camping Site The Langar camping site, 5-kilometer north of the Shandur polo ground, is one of the best campsites in northern Pakistan, flanked by a clean river stocked with trout fish. Trekking up to the Baha Lake (11,883 ft) from the Langar camping site is another irresistible attraction for trekkers, adventurists, and nature lovers. It is where you will experience the cool breeze and see different singing birds in the wild shrubs, willows, and Himalayan birch, with shepherds tending their yaks and livestock.

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The rugged polo, a traditional sport of northern Pakistan, is to promote adventure tourism in the area. It has provided adventurists, nature lovers, sports enthusiasts, and cultural tourists plenty of opportunities to know and enjoy the indigenous cultures, traditional cuisines, folk music, flora and fauna, and the beautiful landscape of northern Pakistan.

Festival Information It is advisable to reach Shandur one day ahead of the game as the routes get croweded. The best way to reach the

Shandur Pass is via Chitral or via Gilgit as it is a midpoint between both.

Facilities A tent village is set up for tourists coming for the festival including wash room facilities.

Restauraunts and food stalls are set up for the festival only.

Many people travel to sell their crafts and souvenir.

About the Author Mr. Shams Uddin operates tours of both national and foreign tourists across Pakistan, particularly in the north. He has rich experience and knowledge in the field coupled with extensive linkages in northern Pakistan. Mr Shams Uddin is also a valued member of the Advisory Board of Fascinating Pakistan.

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[ C U LT U R A L E M B L E M ]

The Meticulous Art of Chundri Text and images by Rumana Husain

64 | APR - JUNE 2023

“

Chundri” and “Bandhani” are terms with which Tie & Dye, the beautifully dyed fabrics are referred to in Pakistan and India. This craft is one of the oldest in the world for making dotted or striped coloured designs on a fabric. Some fabrics are also designed with motifs of animals and vegetation.

History The history of tie & dye is not too accurate since archaeological records of garments and fabrics are scarce.

However, there is a piece of evidence that tie & dye was practiced in Peru, in South America, almost 6,200 years ago, in Egypt 4,000 years ago, and in the Middle East 5,000 years ago. Tie & dye also existed on the Silk Road, in Central Asian countries like Kazakhstan. The Japanese version of this meticulous fabric art, known as Shibori, is made with indigo.

It has been around for 1,300 years and was popularized in the Edo period. Today, silk kimonos in Shibori are extremely expensive, and some pieces can take up to two years to complete! For over 1,000 years Shibori is also being practised by the Bai community in Yunan, China, where it too is made with indigo in blue and white, and is an essential item in the wedding outfit for women in that region. In the

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United States tie & dye became popular during the hippie movement in the 1970s, based on the fabric-printing found in West African countries such as Nigeria.

This ancient technique began in the Indian subcontinent during the Indus Valley Civilisation - a Bronze Age civilisation, lasting from 3300 BCE to 1300 BCE, and in its mature form from 2600 BCE to 1900 BCE. Its sites spanned an area from northeast Afghanistan and much of Pakistan to western and north-western India. Mohenjodaro (in Sindh, Pakistan) and Harappa (in Punjab, Pakistan) very likely grew to contain between 30,000 and 60,000 individuals, and the civilisation may have contained between one and five million people.

In Pakistan, this rich source of culture has been handed down and delicately preserved. There are many towns and cities of Sindh and the Punjab where Chundri is made. A variety of different colours come together on dopattas and clothes that hang outside the various shops and workshops where Chundri workers dyeing cloth over steaming and bubbling cauldrons of colourful dye are not an uncommon spectacle.

What is in a Name?

In Pakistan the words Chundri (tie & dye) and Chunri are often used interchangeably, though the latter is a Punjabi language word for a stole or dopatta (also called chunni in Punjabi), which is worn over a shalwar qameez.

The name Bandhani is commonly used. The word is derived from the Hindi/Urdu word ‘bandhan’ which means to tie.

Technique Chundri is a form of resist dyeing. Batik is also resist dyeing, but unlike its use of wax, Chundri is a technique of patterning fabric by tying parts of it in different ways to prevent the penetration of dyes. Several portions of fabric are plucked by fingernails followed by tying a tiny portion of it with thread (some workers also use a pebble or grain and then tie the fabric around it), and then dipping in dye.

After the dye is completely dried, the knots or nodes are unwound to expose striking dotted designs and geometric patterns.

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Various regions boast of a different method along with a unique output for acquiring great textures, styles, and techniques of Chundri.

Nevertheless, the soft tones of natural dyes permeate the fabric, making it a beautiful as well as a unique possession.

Traditionally, Chundris are done on cotton and silk.

However, various other materials like cotton silk, chiffon, georgette, etc. are also experimented with. The product

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range also varies from dopattas and sarees to stitched or unstitched garments like qameez, kurtas and skirts. Some women wear Chundri as bridal wear, in particular for their Mehndi event, and for many years now the young and old men accompanying the groom also don colourful Chundri dopattas around their necks, thus making the occasion appear colourful and festive for both genders.

Although there is no tool required for the process, in some places the craftsmen wear a metal ring with a protruded point to facilitate the lifting of cloth for tying. Repeated tying and dyeing is carried out from anywhere between two to several colours. One begins with the lightest colour and goes to the darkest. After the dyeing is over the cloth is dipped in a solution of castor oil and dried. The pattern fully appears when the knots are untied. The traditional colours used were indigo, turmeric, and alum but nowadays different type of chemical dyes are used.

In a nutshell, the basic process has the following steps: a. Washing and cleaning of materials b. Printing of the motif c. Folding of the fabric into four or more layers before tying d. Tying of the motifs

ventures are mostly organised by individuals but not taken up by the government as a tool for development or cultural conservation, which is a shame. Whether it is Chundri, or any other Pakistani handicraft, the state should actively promote them for posterity as well as for economic benefits.

e. Dipping of the textile in the lightest colour f. Removal of the knots and then dyeing in the next darker colour

About the Author

g. Renewal of the tying and dyeing with the darkest colour

Rumana Husain is a writer, artist and educator.

h. Washing of the fabric

She is the author of two coffee-table books on Karachi, and has authored and illustrated over 60 children’s books. Four of her books have won awards in Pakistan, Nepal and India. She has been a contributor to various newspapers and magazines, and written hundreds of articles, travelogues, art and book reviews, and has also conducted numerous interviews in the print and electronic media.

i. Opening the knots

The Chundri Market Lately, in Pakistan, there has been a resurgence of interest in traditional handicrafts, and Chundri has also got a boost. The social media has definitely facilitated this trend, allowing local artisans to connect with domestic buyers as well as buyers in different countries. However, these

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[ CUISINE ]

Kartarpura Food Street

By Rida Hussain

K

artarpura, one of the oldest food streets in downtown Rawalpindi, hosts an influx of visitors that throng the market for sumptuous food throughout the week. Long queues of people outside the eateries in the narrow street of Kartarpura are a regular sight with sellers speeding up to serve and pack the food to meet a large number of orders. Food Street comes in full swing at night.

Rawalpindi is a small city in the Potwar plateau near Pakistan’s federal capital, Islamabad. Hence, these cities are also called the ‘twin cities. It is among the top-rated food hotspots in Pakistan, having multiple Food Streets for the locals and tourists. The city has several Food Streets including the one at Saddar and another one at Bhabra Bazaar. But, the historic Kartarpura Food Street tops the game and is the most cherished dine-out place for the locals.

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Crowd increases manifold on weekends, when people from surrounding cities and areas like Taxila, Murree, Hasanabdal, and Gujjar Khan also come here to enjoy their favorite dishes.

Residents of Rawalpindi believe Kartarpura is a jewel for the city that multiplies its cultural and religious significance.

However, the street specializes in traditional breakfast. It is advised to come to Kartarpura in the early morning if one wishes to have a meal in a comparatively less crowded environment.

History of Kartarpura

The food street offers a plethora of traditional beverages and cuisines like Nihari, a traditional dish of slow-cooked meat, Payee, Qeema Naan, Tikka, and Lassi at very affordable and reasonable rates. A twokilometer-long Food Street is adorned with food stalls on both sides and the aroma of savory dishes grips the atmosphere at Kartarpura.

Kartarpura is said to be one of the oldest business centers in the city. It is a Food Street that dates back to prepartition time. The area was once the residence of the Sikh community- who developed much of the Rawalpindi and surrounding areas under the Sikh ruler Ranjit Singh.

Kartarpura was once the key business district of that time.

Some of the eateries have been running the business on Kartarpura Food Street since 1947. According to the locals, during the time of partition, there were only two restaurants offering food and green tea in Kartarpura.

The most famous food outlet of Kartarpura is ‘Kala Khan Nihari’ which has been offering tasty Nihari since 1947.

Visitors believe food street has still retained its traditionality.

Many vendors prefer to prepare Lassi with a traditional and an old method over the use of mechanized blenders.

Some shopkeepers donned the look of the Mughal court attendant with a big mustache, beard, and wearing colorful turbans.

What makes Kartarpura Food Street distinct?

The packed Food Street is not about the elegant ambiance or excellent customer service but it is about the food and the taste. Waiters here do not set the table for the customers but the customers have to grab a table and chair

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for themselves. Visitors say other food streets may offer better seating and a less crowded environment but the chefs here prepare the dishes according to the taste of the locals, which gives Kartarpura an edge over other places.

Usually, after 11 pm at night, Food Street hardly has any place left to sit in any one of the restaurants but even that does not deter the visitors. Parking is also a challenge but food lovers do not mind parking their cars on nearby streets. One can only guess if this is the love for food or Kartarpura.

Many reasons to visit Kartarpura Kartarpura Food Street bustles in Ramzan at Sehri and Iftar times. Food Street brims with buyers standing in long queues two to three hours before to get their order on time. Rush peaks at 1.00 am during Ramzan. Waiters say

they start preparing for sehri soon after Iftar. Hoteliers say all the food is sold out before the time of Sehri because people also place takeout orders.

On the freezing and cold nights of winter, the food street is once again the favorite spot for foodies. The hot food served at the market is a perfect shield against chilling winters in Rawalpindi.

Beautification of the Food Street The project for the beautification of Kartarpura Food Street was launched in 2019 owing to the increasing number of visitors visiting the site. Parks and Horticulture Authority had outlined plans to upgrade the busiest Food Street of Rawalpindi.

The projects included the beautification of the buildings in the street and the creation of a large parking area in the vicinity to facilitate the visitors parking their vehicles with ease. The upgrade plans were being implemented to attract more visitors and residents of the twin cities.

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[ CUISINE ]

The R osy Pink

Kashmiri Chai

72 | APR - JUNE 2023

W

ith the first blew of nippy air, Pakistanis get ready to stock their supplies of hot beverages, kahwa and Kashmiri chai being the most preferred. Be it a morning sit to bask the warmth of the sun or a nocturnal walk in the gardens, a cup of Kashmiri chai is always welcomed.

This beverage has a rich tradition to take center stage of weddings and festivities alike as almost all the winter weddings serve this chai. The consumption of Kashmiri chai is however not a thing of winters only, it is widely used in the northern areas throughout the year as the weather remains close to cold. It is also a delicacy to be enjoyed during monsoon season when tray-full of biscuits and samosas are served to enjoy the rain.

So, what is so different about this chai and what makes people try it out and fall in love with.

To begin with, it is that distinctive ‘Gulabi’ colour; the hue of the tinge of pink that makes it so tempting. The creamy texture, the addition of roasted almonds and pistachio on top and the aroma of green cardamoms infused with the richness of the tea makes this tea so special.

Also known as ‘Noon Chai’, the tea from originated from the valleys of Kashmir. Made from green tea leaves, the distinctive pink colour is attained by adding a pinch of baking soda in the brewing tea.

The first step in making Kashmiri Pink Chai is to make the kahwa (or kehwa) which is the tea concentrate. Boil green tea leaves in water for about thirty minutes or till the water level reduces by half.

Once the water reduces, there is a three-part process that leads to the signature pink colour of Kashmiri Chai. First, add cold water (preferably with ice cubes) to shock the tea concentrate. Second, add baking soda which reacts with the tea, and bubbles for a few seconds.

Third, aerate the tea heavily with a ladle, or a mug. This step is known as ‘phaita lagana’ in Urdu, and it means to pour and re-pour the tea from a height. Use a ladle, a mug or two pots. This will aerate the tea creating a frothy layer on the chai. As you keep aerating the tea, you will notice the color of the chai mixture changing to a dark-reddish brown.

The reddish hue is an indication that you are on your way to making a beautifully pink Kashmiri Chai. At this point, the Kashmiri Chai kahwa or kehwa is ready. Strain the tea leaves and keep the kahwa in the fridge.

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The intensity of the pink color can vary depending on the variety of tea leaves used, the amount of aeration done, and the quantity of baking soda used. Just remember that even if the tea is light brown in color, it will still taste delicious.

Once the Kashmiri chai kahwa is ready, making a cup of Kashmiri Chai is the next step which is quite easy.

To make Kashmiri Pink Chai, add equal quantities of the kahwa and milk to a boil. Add cardamom pods along with a pinch of salt. Simmer for 10 – 12 minutes and serve with crushed almonds, pistachios and sugar. Adjust the quantity based on how creamy you want the chai. Add more milk (or cream, or condensed milk) if you want it richer, otherwise add more water. The addition of milk has an impact on the pink color of the chai. The more milk is added, the more pink the chai will turn. Remember not to overcook the chai as the colour will soon fade away.

The authentic version of Kashmiri Chai is namkeen, however it is widely served with nuts and sugar. Just like the scenic landscapes of Kashmir, its delectable cuisine has been winning hearts for ages.

Glossary Guide •

Badaam = Almond

•

Gulabi = Pink

•

Ilaichi = Cardamom

•

Kahwa = Tea without milk

•

Namkeen = Salty

•

Pista = Pistachio

•

Sabz Chai = Green Tea

Price Guide: Green tea is readily available throughout Pakistan. A 200 gram pack of green tea costs Rs 600.

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