Fall-line Skiing. Issue 178. January 2021

TRIED AND TESTED SPECIAL

PLUS SAM ANTHAMATTEN’S RIG FOR THE GIG

ISSUE 178 FEBRUARY 2021 £4.99 WWW.FALL-LINE.CO.UK

The complete skier

THE ALPS

BY BOAT

The ski resorts that rise up from Lake Lucerne – all connected by ferry boat

HIDDEN EUROPE Big descents in the Spanish Pyrenees and cat skiing in Kosovo

Happy place Bringing the mountains to you

WIN B WITH OR IG! T SPYDEOVOX, OAKLE

Y, R & PET ZL

❄ COURCHEVEL ON A BUDGET ❄ JOHN FALKINER: VERBIER’S FREERIDE SOUL ❄ DOLOMITE TRIPPING ❄ MARTIN CHESTER ON HOW TO STOP SLIPS AND SLIDES ❄ A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO ALTA, UTAH ❄ EASY-ACCESS NORWAY: MIDNIGHT SUN FUN ❄ MEET THE ARTIST WHO PAINTS PISTE MAPS

Welcome

PHOTO MIRJA GEH / RED BULL CONTENT POOL

MAKING TURNS, FORGING BONDS

One thing I keep reading about regarding what these unfamiliar conditions of confinement, restricted travel and limited sociability mean for us as humans, is that our future selves could well be more authentic. We’ll have stripped away much of what we don’t need to focus on what we do.

An example I have seen of this, living in the French Alps, is how many people have taken up ski touring for the first time and continued skinning up for their turns, day on day. They haven’t been stopped from skiing; rather the restrictions have increased their resolve to get the turns. For me personally it has been a real awakening of how much making turns matters to me. And above all that, the most powerful aspect I have realised, is that of the shared experience.

I’ve forged new bonds with fellow skiers over mini adventures and tours, and cemented older ones only more deeply. Skiing, like most things in life, is better when it is shared, and during those long sweaty climbs, and celebrations at the top, I’ve found a rewarding side of skiing that in some ways I have to be grateful to this pandemic for experiencing.

My parents can relate. Stuck at their holiday home in France and unwilling to return to the UK as case numbers were skyrocketing,

TRIED AND TESTED SPECIAL

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FALL-LINE

Issue 178, February 2021 COVER PHOTO: PHOTOGRAPHER Oskar Enander SKIER Mattias Hargin LOCATION

Mount Baker, Washington

ISSUE 178 FEBRUARY 2021 £4.99 WWW.FALL-LINE.CO.UK

The complete skier

THE ALPS

BY BOAT

The ski resorts that rise up from Lake Lucerne – all connected by ferry boat

HIDDEN EUROPE Big descents in the Spanish Pyrenees and cat-skiing in Kosovo

Happy place Bringing the mountains to you

WIN BIG!

WITH ORTO SPYDERVOX, OAKLEY, & PETZL

❄ COURCHEVEL ON A BUDGET ❄ JOHN FALKINER: VERBIER’S FREERIDE SOUL ❄ DOLOMITE TRIPPING ❄ MARTIN CHESTER ON HOW TO STOP SLIPS AND SLIDES ❄ A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO ALTA, UTAH ❄ EASY-ACCESS NORWAY: MIDNIGHT SUN FUN ❄ MEET THE ARTIST WHO PAINTS PISTE MAPS

EDITORIAL TEAM

Editor Nicola Iseard nicola@fall-line.co.uk Online & gear editor Sophie Nicholson sophie@fall-line.co.uk Editor at large Jonny Richards jonny@fall-line.co.uk Art director Nicola Lang nic@fall-line.co.uk Sub editor Helen Milbank Backcountry editor Martin Chester martin@martinchester.co.uk 2 www.fall-line.co.uk

they started skinning one day at a time, for their mental wellbeing as much as their fitness, and they found companionship in people who were doing exactly the same. They have since formed friendships with people they might never have even met in a lift queue or zipping around a crowded piste.

Yes, I have been extraordinarily lucky to ride some lifts for gear testing over the border in Switzerland, and I was blessed with some fantastic snow, too. But what felt more important on those few days was the joy I had skiing it with my husband. I was reminded of a quote I read by a ski bum who lives alone in his van in La Grave.

He said something to the effect of: “Sure, I’ve skied hundreds of great days, countless powder days, but the ones I can best remember are days I skied with friends. Shared days are the most memorable.”

This idea stuck with me then and seems ever more poignant now.

We are a global community of skiers. Many of us are separated by more than just borders at this time, but the other side of that coin is that we are united by our shared passion, something that will far endure this damn virus. And the moment that we get the chance, we will be out there, come rain or shine, powder or crud, making turns and sharing some memorable times together.

Nicola Iseard, Editor

Office Manager Tamsin Robinson tamsin@fall-line.co.uk CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Sam Anthamatten, Graham Bell, Gemma Bowes, Mike Douglas, Mark Frame, Phil Gordon, Neil Guthrie, Eric Kendall, Gabriella Le Breton, Chrigl Luthy, Amy Marwick, Sophie Mead, Finlay Mickel and Tord Nilson CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Konrad Bartelski, Grégoire Chappuis, Dom Daher, Alex Filtz, Alex Kaiser, Penny Kendall, Adam Klingeteg, Rocko Menzyk, Alex Moling, Freddy Planinschek, Lindsay Pierce Martin, Christoffer Sjöström and Andrea Vigl Subscriptions team 07754 279367 ADVERTISING MANAGER

Rich Evans sales@fall-line.co.uk PUBLISHER Richard Fincher richard@fall-line.co.uk

Publishing Fall-Line Media Ltd, PO Box 7888, Kettering, NN16 6QY, tel: 01733 293250

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Copyright 2021, Fall-Line Media Ltd, PO Box 7888, Kettering, NN16 6QY Printed by Stephens & George Reproduction by Fall-Line Media Ltd No liability is accepted for the accuracy of the information contained herein, nor are any guarantees given by the magazine. Copyright worldwide of original material is held by Fall-Line Media Limited, and permission must be obtained for any use, transmission, storage or reproduction. Publication does not imply that the opinions are shared by Fall-Line Media Ltd. Fall-Line Media Limited assumes no responsibility for the loss or damage of contributed material. We cannot accept responsibility whatsoever for product or samples submitted to us for review – please make sure any such items are insured to their full value.

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CONTENTS 56

A sense of being somewhere wild, at the farthest-flung edge of the winter realm, with endless views across backcountry… this is why you come

PHOTO CHRISTOFFER SJÖSTRÖM

Gemma Bowes

6 www.fall-line.co.uk

08 WTF?!

30 The man behind the maps

10 News

32 15 minutes with…

14 Skeeks

36 My mountain

Great balls of fire. Upside down. On skis…

Mountain news, eco updates and more Your shout! Plus win £100 of Ski Bartlett vouchers.

Oh, and check out the answers to our epic Fall-Line crossword puzzle, too

16 Win!

What’s that? Not one but four great prize packages up for grabs this issue? Worth thousands? Crazy…

17 Dr Frame

Our knee surgeon’s back with a cautionary tale

24 The Alps by boat

Resort hopping via ferry boat across Lake Lucerne

28 Courchevel on the cheap

Is this even possible? We’re on a mission to find out

Meet the artist whose piste maps are a work of art Austrian former FWT champion Lorraine Huber A local’s guide to Alta, Utah, with pro freeskier Andrew Pollard

38 Speed freaks

Graham Bell reports on a World Cup season that’s already fraught with drama

42 In search of powder

Why we’re crazy for Kosovo

50 In search of fun

Family hooning in the Nordic resort of Trysil

58 Ski journal

Skiing in the Dolomites: cue mighty peaks, fine wines and world-class photography

68 A Spanish invitation

Come spend a weekend exploring one of the Pyrenees’ quirkiest spots, they said. 'Heck, we’re there, came the answer…

76 Stop the slide!

Expert tips to help you stay on the up and cope when you get that falling feeling

78 Backcountry guru

Martin Chester profiles his out-and-out heroes in the wonderful world of mountain guiding.

This month it’s the legendary John Falkiner

81 Gear Guide

Our pick of this season’s kit, tried, tested and delivered. Plus we chat to Elan Ski’s brand guru – and pro freeskier and mountain guide Sam Anthamatten shares his top gear picks

108 Backyard epics

A Snowdonia adventure in lockdown proves a revelation for one lucky man

TRIED AND TESTED SPECIAL

PLUS SAM ANTHAMATTEN’S RIG FOR THE GIG

ISSUE 178 FEBRUARY 2021 £4.99 WWW.FALL-LINE.CO.UK

The complete skier

THE ALPS

BY BOAT

The ski resorts that rise up from Lake Lucerne – all connected by ferry boat

HIDDEN EUROPE Big descents in the Spanish Pyrenees and cat skiing in Kosovo

Happy place Bringing the mountains to you

WIN BIG!

WITH ORT SPYDEROVOX, OAKLEY, & PETZL

❄ COURCHEVEL ON A BUDGET ❄ JOHN FALKINER: VERBIER’S FREERIDE SOUL ❄ DOLOMITE TRIPPING ❄ MARTIN CHESTER ON HOW TO STOP SLIPS AND SLIDES ❄ A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO ALTA, UTAH ❄ EASY-ACCESS NORWAY: MIDNIGHT SUN FUN ❄ MEET THE ARTIST WHO PAINTS PISTE MAPS

SUBSCRIBE TO FALL-LINE

Just £25 including ALL of next season’s mags and a limited edition Yeti buff!

See p40

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WTF?!

THE MOST INCREDIBLE PHOTOS IN THE WORLD AND HOW THEY WERE CAPTURED

GÄLLÖ, SWEDEN WORDS: JONNY RICHARDS SKIER: JESPER TJÄDER PHOTO: ADAM KLINGETEG

I

n 2009, I walked into the Fall-Line offices for my first day as editor. I was nervous. And even more nervous after meeting the publisher. “We need fire!” he exclaimed. “We need excitement!” he bellowed. “We need skiers going full Evel Knievel, not bloody playing in the powder with snow monkeys!”

Well, Saint Dickie of Peterborough (anyone supporting a ski magazine through this most difficult period definitely needs the help of a higher power), it’s only taken a dozen winters and half a century of WTFs, but finally I put on my best Arthur Brown burning headdress, start humming Da-Da-Dum (oh hell, just Google it) and bring you… FIRE! Plenty of you will have seen the full series of Japaneseinspired crazies from which this image is taken (with Jesper Tjäder’s Game Show having clocked-up over 500,000 YouTube views). But while the former World Cup overall Slopestyle winner has given his side to the edit, as part of the official 13-minute Red Bull release, nothing’s been heard from his partner-in-crime, photographer Adam Klingeteg.

Until now.

And while flying through a giant flaming hula hoop upside down can’t be easy, capturing the moment sounds just as challenging. Especially when your location is a cross-country ski tunnel, buried deep inside a Swedish mountain.

“It’s in the middle of nowhere,” says Adam of the former World War Two military installation near Gällö that now claims to be the world’s longest covered ski track, with a full loop coming in at 1.4km. “It’s not the strangest place I’ve worked,” he says dryly. “That was inside a boiling volcano on the outskirts of Kamchatka… but it might not be one of the more usual shooting areas for photos like this.”

Hard to disagree, with the biggest issue being space.

“Everything is in this long, not wide at all tube thingy,” says the Stockholm-based snapper. “It just went on forever. And since we were shooting both stills and video at the same time, to be able to find a creative angle and not be in the way for each other’s cameras – that was tough.”

Add in the element of fire, lack of slope (so you need a winch), plus a tight three-day timescale and you start to appreciate what a bonkers undertaking it was to get the dozen or so tricks nailed, with one of the features alone – the 24m triple-elbow spider rail – taking 60 attempts to get right.

“The tempo was insane,” says Adam. “Long days and long nights with tiny naps in between.” Which sounds about right for Red Bull’s always-be-pushing ethos.

Something that doubleOlympian Jesper knows all about; just watch his Unrailistic or Unrailistic 2 edits, with 4,000,000 combined views, to ensure some involuntary head shaking (in a good way).

“He does it all the way and won’t stop moving for anyone or anything!” says Adam of the Swedish freestyle boss. “He is a machine.”

Speaking of which, our man Klingeteg’s apparatus for the project was an entirely suitable, given the Japanese inspiration for Game Show, Nikon D4S. And after much bowing to the Nippon photo gods (special emphasis on colour correction due to the indoor light), he took more than 3000 pictures during the 72-hour shoot. “I’ve never shot a ring on fire before,” he says, by way of confirmation that it was worth the lack of sleep.

His next project with Jesper the Brave involves playing in the powder with snow monkeys, and will be extensively covered in Fall-Line. Only joking, Dickie!

It’s not the strangest place I’ve worked… that was inside a boiling volcano near Kamchatka

8 www.fall-line.co.uk

www.fall-line.co.uk 9

NEWS What a guy! Matt’s a true inspiration

IN BRIEF BORIS SKIS, ANYONE? The Finnish city of Lahti, reigning European Green Capital (lahti.fi/en), has launched a pioneering urban ski-sharing programme, akin to the bike-share programmes popular in cities across Europe. Lahti, which has hosted seven FIS Nordic World Ski Championships and is set to achieve carbon neutrality by 2025, has introduced this new, fun initiative in a bid to encourage residents to reduce their transport-related carbon emissions. Grab a pair of cross-country skis from one of the three ski points across the city, go where you need to go using the urban ski trails that have been laid on the sidewalks, then return after use. Simples.

STRENGTH IN THE FACE OF ADVERSITY

Gabriella Le Breton talks with Matt Masson, Fall-line contributor and co-author of The Road to the Top of the Mountain – the one ski book you need to read this winter

I

t’s easy, in these lockdown days, to feel a bit sorry for yourself. Ski holidays – quite likely the entire season – cancelled, whole months going past without seeing family or friends… If you’re in danger of wallowing, grab The Road to the Top of the Mountain.

The tale of Matt Masson’s hard-won recovery from a life-changing brain injury, recounted by his mother and himself, couldn’t be a more timely, or welcome, dose of perspective.

A free-spirited 23-year-old skier, sailor and globetrotter, Matt fell through a roof shortly before embarking on a ski season in Courchevel. Awaking from a coma six weeks later, he was unable to talk or sit upright unsupported. Medics were loath to offer predictions on his recovery (or lack thereof), yet he defied the odds and was skiing in the Chamonix valley 366 days after his accident.

Regular Fall-line readers will recognise Matt’s by-line – the self-styled Wobbly Journo has written for us several times since recovering from his accident. The Road to the Top of the Mountain is, however, primarily the writing debut of Matt’s mother, Anne. Her copy is candid, enabling us to live vicariously through the initial shock of discovering her young son might not survive a monumental brain injury

before joining her on the emotional rollercoaster that accompanies his recovery.

It’s impossible not to be inspired by the strength of Matt’s family, and particularly by Anne’s tireless efforts to mobilise ‘Team Matt’ – a stream of friends to entertain, stimulate and encourage him to first emerge from his coma and then commit to his lengthy rehab.

The family’s passion for skiing unites them and us, offering a clear goal to strive towards: getting Matt back on skis. Over time, various members of the freeskiing community join Team Matt, from dry slope instructors in the UK to the likes of Jacob Wester and CR Johnson’s sister, Kahlil.

Now based in Le Tour, Chamonix, Matt is living independently and loving life as a ski journalist: “My job is to chat with my heroes.

And lockdown means I get to speak to more skiers as they’re not out on the slopes! Don’t tell anybody, but it’s not been that bad. I never felt any pain, there were just things I couldn’t do.

I basically get a free pass as nobody expects me do anything – I’m allowed to try everything!”

The Road to the Top of the Mountain is available from WH Smith, Waterstones and The Book Guild Publishing, priced at £11.

Visit whsmith.co.uk, waterstones.com and bookguild.co.uk.

Medics were loath to offer predictions on his recovery (or lack thereof), yet he defied the odds

10 www.fall-line.co.uk

SCULPT IT! We love a good snow sculpture, and over in France, the 38th annual Snow Sculpture contest took place in Valloire last month despite the Covid-19 pandemic. 15 competing teams had from 9am on 21 January until noon on the 24th to build their masterpieces from four-metre-high blocks of ice. First place went to ‘L’Envol du Silence’ (The Flight of Silence), with its huge owl design. And we struggle to make a snowman that doesn’t look like a inebriated Mr Blobby…

FAREWELL TO FARRELL Jan Farrell, the most successful British speed skier in recent history, a world record holder and third fastest human in the world on downhill skis, has announced his retirement after 10 years at the top.

Jan explained: “Like many people, after a rather turbulent year I’m experiencing a lot of changes in my life. I have made the decision to retire from elite sport due to my new family situation and because of the current Covid-19 wave. I feel responsible for the people that surround me and want to reduce the risk by not travelling.”

SWIPE SNOW FOR LOVE Finally, if you’re a single lady looking for love online (thereby joining the global lockdown online dating boom), Club Med has revealed that of all the holiday snaps men love of women most, it’s skiing pictures that make them swipe right far more. So, ladies: dig out your finest snowy shots and prepare yourselves to be wooed!

M-LINE FREE RANGE Dynastar continues to make freeride a part of its history: a legend that this winter is developing into M-Pro… making it even better. Freeride adventurers will have new weapons on their feet, with an instinct sure to turn heads on the powder. Incisive, fast and powerful, the M-Pro range will withstand high-speed curves and committed landings on any kind of snow…

DISCOVER THE RANGE ON : www.skibartlett.com www.ldmountaincentre.com www.skiexchange.co.uk www.glideslide.co.uk www.skishops.co.uk www.fluid-lines.co.uk www.absolute-snow.co.uk www.craigdon-edinburgh.com www.snowsun.com www.backcountryuk.com www.theskierslounge.co.uk www.braemarmountainsports.com www.snowlab.co.uk

NEWS

E-C rner

With Mike Douglas, legendary pro skier and President of Protect Our Winters (POW) Canada

INSPIRING THE NEXT

GENERATION T

he primary motivation behind my climate advocacy has always been my children, but being a greenconscious father of two teenagers has challenged me in ways I never expected.

When I started getting serious about climate I thought my kids would be inspired by my action and jump on the green wagon.

Things haven’t exactly gone that way.

Talking climate around the dinner table most often leads to a pair of eye rolls and a quick exit.

Like many parents, my daily routine involves walking around the house turning lights off and badgering my kids to take out the recycling and compost. I feel like a broken record, and most days I wonder if they get it or care at all.

Occasionally, my 17-year-old son will open up and tell me he understands but finds the subject matter depressing. The doom and gloom message is a hard sell for teens. They find those years challenging enough on their own let alone adding a global pandemic and impending climate catastrophe to the mix.

However, I’m starting to see some of the seeds I’ve planted beginning to sprout. Here are five tips I’ve discovered to help your kids become green skiers…

TALK ABOUT IT

While they may act like they don’t want to hear it, they are probably absorbing more information from you than they are willing to let on. I try to balance the depressing news with positive news about technological breakthroughs and government actions. The more hopeful the conversation is, the more buy-in I usually get. Electric vehicles are always a good topic because they are fast and fun. On a good powder day when there are smiles on my kids’ faces, I let them know that this is what we are trying to protect.

12 www.fall-line.co.uk

experience can be, the more likely the kids will enjoy it, and the more likely they will want to protect it when they get older. I’m also a big proponent of the educational aspects of travel. Immersing your family into another culture for a few weeks is priceless.

VOTE WITH YOUR DOLLARS

Youth united: the positivity and energy at climate marches is contagious

GET THEM OUTSIDE

Exercising in the outdoors has been proven to have an incredibly positive effect on both our physical and mental health. I see it in my kids every single day. If they spend a full day inside in front of a screen, they tend to be lethargic and grumpy. Once they’re outside they are totally different.

It’s hard to build an appreciation for the value of the natural world if you are never out in it. While skiing a couple of years ago, I took my daughter to an ice cave that had opened up at the base of the Blackcomb Glacier. Suddenly this abstract idea of climate change became real for her; she saw the beauty of the ice first hand, and that made her want to protect it.

TRAVEL LESS, STAY LONGER

My kids like to go on vacation but they hate the travel. Every parent knows the phrase, ‘Are we there yet?’ With ski trips, there is so much gear and challenge, it seems like such a shame to go through all the hassle for just a few days of enjoyment.

My suggestion is travel less often but stay longer. Less travel is better for the environment and staying longer gives the family more time to unwind and appreciate the mountains. The more positive the ski

As skiers we need stuff – a lot of stuff!

More and more outdoor and snow brands are waking up to the impact their products are having on the planet. Support these brands and buy products that have strong warranties and are built to last. This may mean paying a bit more up front, but a lot less in the long run. I have several items in my daily kit that I’ve been using for over 10 years. When your kids are young, try to pass along ski gear if you can. My kids wore nothing but hand-me-downs from friends until they were 10 years old.

ATTEND A CLIMATE MARCH

Most kids are afraid to stand out or say something controversial or potentially uncool. Historically this has made it tough for them to be vocal about things like climate change, but Greta Thunberg’s #FridaysForFuture movement has opened the conversation for many teens. I attended my first climate march in early 2019 and haven’t missed one since.

The positivity and youthful energy at the marches is contagious and gives me a good boost of hope for the future. Events like these help flip the narrative from doom and gloom to hope and action, and allow the youth to unite and have a say in their future.

My fellow pro skier friend and climate advocate, Greg Hill, summed it up well by saying: “Be the change you want to see in the world. Staying true to your convictions and leading by example is probably the most powerful thing you can do.”

My daughter saw the beauty of the ice first hand, and that made her want to protect it

Mike’s daughter explores an ice cave at the base of the Blackcomb Glacier. “Suddenly this abstract idea of climate change became real for her”

www.fall-line.co.uk 13

WIN! £100 OF SKI BARTLETT VOUCHERS Want a chance to bag £100 of spending money to splash on kit at Ski Bartlett’s legendary shop in Hillingdon or on its website, skibartlett.com?

All you need to do is put pen to paper or fingers to keyboard. Share some snowy wisdom, pose a question on anything from kit to couloirs, or send us a photo and the tale behind it. The writer of the winning letter in each issue wins the vouchers… it’s as simple as that.

WRITE TO US AT skeeks@fall-line.co.uk WINNER HOW LONG IS WRONG?

I’m looking to buy the Salomon Stance 96s, which received your Editors’ Choice award. But I’m getting conflicting info as to what the ideal length for these skis is.

I’m 5ft 10in and ski on Salomon Rocker 2 90s in 177cm, and QST 115s in 179cm.

The Stance 96s come in 176 and 182. I’ve read a few reviews that recommended to size down, as these are more of a stiffer frontside ski, but I wouldn’t want to sacrifice any float. Did any of your testers have views on length with this ski?

James Iman, London

BIKING IN THE BUFF

I’m making good use of my free FL Yeti buff! It matches my gravel bike perfectly. Shame there’s no skiing this year, but plans are already being made for winter 21/22. Keep up the great work guys!

Andy Williams, Canterbury

Way to go, Andy! Pleased to see you’re putting your Fall-Line buff to good use. It looks very smart next to your bike. We know it would look even better alongside a pair of skis, but that time will come!

LOCKDOWN LAUGHS

We have come up with ideas for a virtual ski trip: 1. Make a mug of hot chocolate for my partner as he sits outside in all his ski kit – and charge him €10.

2. Always wait 30 minutes in an imaginary queue before going upstairs. I’m not sure whether it will be in Europe or North America, so I may have to put out tissues.

3. Recreate my efforts last year by pretending a bench is a chairlift, sitting down in front of it and then lying splayed on the ground, while my partner acts as the grumpy liftie.

4. Wait for a foggy day. Buy a bus pass and pick up an oversized map of my area. Try to navigate along a route incorporating steep hills. Wait ages for a bus ride that goes round the whole area before getting to where we

Ah, the ‘which length to go for?’ is one of the eternal conundrums with ski choice.

Our ski tester Chrigl has this for you: “If you’re buying the Stance 96 to replace both your Rocker 2 and your QST then probably go for the longer length, after all, ‘float’ sounds important to you. If, however, you intend to replace your Rocker 2 90s with a fun yet carvey all-mountain ski, then go for the shorter length. The Stance 96 will definitely be more stable than your Rocker 2 ever was, even in the shorter length. These choices are really determined by how many pairs of skis you wish to own, or take with you on trips. It is a sum made up of innumerable vectors, but let’s boil it down to this: how do you ski now and how do you intend to ski this coming year (or next)? If you intend to push for faster speeds, then take the 182; if you are happy at your current speed and value manoeuvrability, then plump for the 176. Let us know what you decide!” want to be. Bonus points for taking brie baguettes in our rucksacks and stopping for chips to warm our hands.

Julia White, Guernsey

Thanks Julia, you’ve taken us right to the slopes. Almost. Don’t forget to splash water on your bathroom floor to ensure you slip all over the place whenever you need to go!

SKIING STARS

While looking through some old photos, we found this one of our

Star struck! Josie and Dave, left, with FL’s Tamsin on the right with the one and only Graham

daughter Josie. It was taken when she competed in a school ski competition a couple of years ago at Pendle Ski Club. The guest of honour was Dave Ryding. He chatted to all, posed for photos and signed ski helmets. What a star! It was wonderful to meet Dave and chat about where it all began for him. He is a true inspiration for all up and coming young skiers. Keep up the good work Dave!

Nick Lee, Lancashire

Nice one, Nick. Your email and Josie’s photo sparked memories for FallLine’s Office Manager Tamsin. Her photo is taken some 30 years earlier than yours and with a different ski star, our very own Graham Bell!

CORRECTION

Sorry guys! In our November issue we slipped up and used the wrong photo to illustrate ‘80s gear’. The suits were definitely not from the ’80s; they were the fab contemporary creations of OOSC. Oops. Our apologies to them and their fun and functional clothing.

Where will you ski next winter? Email us your plans (or your ‘I reeeally want to go here’ lists) at skeeks@fall-line.co.uk – we’re stacking ’em up for a Let’s Ski Skeeks Special.

14 www.fall-line.co.uk

FALL-LINE’S FANTABULOUS CROSSWORD The wait is over, folks. We bring you the answers to Fall-Line’s first ever ski-themed crossword! Did you smash it? Did one question have you stumped?

Email us at skeeks@fall-line.co.uk to let us know how you got on

p i l s i K C o r t ina i c e e K t mo h a w b r z a o a b m o t s ü p de at h G h a r e l e g t r e i f al l l ine n e l i f t pas s y h l K Rev e l s t o e e t t e c o rni c e t ap r es sKi 1

2

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5

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9

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Across: 4. Former Olympic ski resort featured in a Bond film (7) 6. Glen Plake’s hairstyle of choice (6) 9. The sort of cookies you don’t want to eat (5) 11. Direct line down a slope. Often described as the route a ball would travel if released down a slope (4, 4) 12. You need your ‘fit slaps’ to get you up there – anagram (4, 4) 14. Canadian ski resort that shares its name with a former civil parish in Devon (10) 15. An overhanging snow ledge formed by wind loading on an exposed ridge line (7) 16. Skiing’s equivalent of golf’s ‘nineteenth hole’ (5, 3) Down: 1. Even things out a bit with a ‘spite rehabs’ – anagram (5, 6) 2. Ocean vessel, also vital part of a ski boot (5) 3. Austrian ski resort that is home to the infamous Hahnenkamm downhill ski race (9) 5. High life accessory, also exquisite Rocky Mountains powder (9) 7. Meaning of the old Norse word ‘skíð’ – a split piece of ---- (4) 8. A typical French Savoyard dish made with potatoes, reblochon, cream and bacon (11) 10. Largest ski resort in Scotland (8) 13. Possibly mythical creature of the High Himalya (4)

Got them all right? Give yourself a sticker! www.fall-line.co.uk 15

COMPETITION

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ORTOVOX ASCENT AVABAG

A brilliant Ascent 30 or Ascent 28 S Avabag is yours for the taking…

he allure of skiing off-piste is undeniable and sometimes irresistible. No queues, no mechanical chatter of the lifts, no cat tracks, only the promise of virgin snow… jump on in!

The problem is that too many skiers do just this without ensuring they are prepared first. Wearing a transceiver and carrying avalanche rescue gear is essential; but what about preventing a burial in the first place? Enter the airbag.

The idea is simple – a backpack that features a gas or batterypropelled airbag that can be released when the avalanche breaks, keeping you buoyant and above the avalanche.

This month Ortovox is offering one lucky reader the chance to win one of their Ascent 30 or Ascent 28 S Avabags complete with the Avabag canister. Both backpacks (available in a range of colours) feature the extremely light and compact 690g Avabag airbag system.

Remove the compressed gas canister and you can practice activating the bag over and over again, so you’re good to go if the shizzle hits

the freeride fan. The great thing about the Avabag system is that due to its small size there is plenty of room to store other things in the backpack.

The Ascent 30 is the ideal airbag backpack for longer ski tours, with 30 litres of volume to carry everything you need – safety equipment, a hydration system, a change of clothes and a snack… everything has its place. The foamed 3D back system ensures it is super-comfy, too.

The Ascent 28 S Avabag has all the same top specs at the 30, but is designed for women, with a shorter back system as well as hip and shoulder straps adapted to the female anatomy. It is also suitable for men with shorter backs. The Avabag system is removable from both backpacks for days when you just want to cruise the groomers.

Get to fall-line.co.uk now for your chance to win one of these brilliant airbags! www.ortovox.com

HOW TO ENTER: FOR A CHANCE TO WIN AN ORTOVOX AVABAG, HEAD TO FALL-LINE.CO.UK BEFORE 5 MARCH, 2021 16 www.fall-line.co.uk

ADVICE

DR FRAME’S CRUCIAL CASE NOTES Ex-racer and orthopaedic knee surgeon Mark Frame shares a tale of hope after adversity…

W

ith everything conspiring against us to get on a slope, I thought I’d buck the trend and shine some light on the possibility of maybe just getting some slushy skiing in this year.

With the long game mentality in place, we must think about how we can maintain our Christmas ‘fitness’ and consolidate it for the end of the ski season grand finale.

I like to consider myself as one of those ‘do as I say and not as I do’ kind of doctors, so I thought it might be interesting to give some insight into how I recovered from my own ski injury and begun my preparation for ski hols 2021. We will briefly gloss over the extensive eating of Toblerone and move on to the ski drama, knee and exercise tips…

Well, it was a great day’s skiing with friends in Tignes; a fabulous morning making our way as far as we could across the ski map. We had a well-planned lunch

stop at a restaurant at the very edge of said ski map, but as with so many of these long days out, we underestimated quite how far we had travelled. As such, we were faced with the complex spiderweb of pistes and lifts that required fast negotiation if we were to make it back to base before the lifts shut and we were left stranded.

In my haste I was shussing down a narrow path when one of my ‘best’ friends decided to cut in front of me. Misjudged (not helped by the long lunch, I imagine), his tails made contact with my tips and we tumbled around together in a puff of snow. Finally settled and counting our limbs, all seemed OK. Until I tried to turn left… I had managed to tear my medial collateral ligament (MCL): the ligament designed to stop your knee bending the wrong way side to side.

After much swearing and right turning, and a €100 taxi ride, I made it back to the chalet.

His tails made contact with my tips and we tumbled together in a puff of snow

Thankfully, although a common injury, I didn’t need surgery, just physio. However, getting an MRI quickly is important, as an MCL injury is often not in isolation. That twisting force can also damage your ACL and disc of meniscal cartilage that could be best served with immediate surgery.

Generally, an MCL in isolation will heal on its own. In some rare circumstances if it doesn’t heal it may require reconstruction.

It was a long haul for full recovery, which surprised me as a surgeon. Although it was so much better after six to 12 weeks, it took nearly a year to completely settle. You will be pleased to hear I am now back to full strength and have skied since without issue.

As for getting prepared for a possible 2021 ski trip, here is my advice: stay at home and follow the rules so we can do everything we can to get back on track. Oh, and work those quads too! ❄ Mr Mark Frame MBChB MRCS FRSC is a trauma and knee surgeon at the University Hospital Southampton/Spire Hospital. Go to wessex-knee.com.

“Thank you - this changes everything!”

Richard Auerbach

“Without my Ski Mojo I’d never get onto the slopes” Nigel Barden “I now have bionic knees!” David Carpenter TEL: 07464 373336

“Skimojo has been transformational...

John Heagney money really well spent!” www.fall-line.co.uk 17

COMPETITION We’re loving the racey, retro style of this season’s women’s Captivate jacket

WORTH £1000

WIN

SPYDER GEAR FROM ELLIS BRIGHAM WORTH £1000

Ooh, with £1000 to spend on Spyder kit, what to get… Pants? Jacket? Both?!

I

n need of a new ski wardrobe? Then listen up, because we have the competition for you. Spyder has teamed up with Ellis Brigham to offer one lucky winner the chance to spend £1000 on Spyder gear in-store at one of Ellis Brigham’s retail outlets, or online at ellis-brigham.com/spyder.

What gear you choose is up to you. We’re loving the racey, retro style of the women’s Captivate jacket (£380). It combines a Gore-Tex Infinium outer with PrimaLoft insulation to offer protection from the elements, along with a detachable helmet-compatible hood, strategically placed stretch panels for freedom of movement, and underarm vents to dump heat when the mercury rises. You could pair it with the Gore-Tex/PrimaLoft Winner Pants (£290), and layer up with the Savona Tee (£100), a fast-wicking, super-soft stretch polyester layer

put through the ringer by the US Ski Team (so it must be good).

There’s heaps of kit for men to choose from too. A big fan favourite, the Leader Gore-Tex jacket (£530) is one of Spyder’s best-selling jackets. Spec-loaded, it has PrimaLoft insulation, an engineered laser-cut construction, detachable helmet-compatible hood, and a zip-out powder skirt. You could pair it with the Gore-Tex/PrimaLoft Dare Pants (£300), and the Bandit mid-layer (£111) – a knit tech fleece jacket guaranteed to keep you toasty on sub-zero days on the mountain.

Don’t hang about… channel your inner speedster (Spyder’s founder was a passionate sports car fan and took the ‘y’ spelling from the Ferrari Spyder) and get to fall-line.co.uk now to enter! www.spyder.com

HOW TO ENTER: FOR A CHANCE TO WIN SPYDER GEAR, HEAD TO FALL-LINE.CO.UK BEFORE 5 MARCH, 2021 18 www.fall-line.co.uk

Xeros Jacket Built for Alpinism, the Xeros has been specifically crafted for maximum warmth to weight.

COMPETITION

WIN

OAKLEY JACKET, PANTS, GOGGLES AND HELMET Get shreddy with it! Bag a cool £670-worth of Oakley kit and you’ll be rocking the slopes in the very latest jacket-pant-headwear combo

B

lock colours, bigger logos, brighter colourways, and new materials – we are loving Oakley’s Winter 2021 kit line. And Oakley are sure you will too, which is why they’re offering one lucky reader a chance to win a jacket/pant/headwear combo this month.

First up is the feature-rich Men’s TNP BZI Jacket (£215), or if a woman wins, the TNP Insulated Anorak (£200).

Both are made with 2L FN Dry 10K material with O Protect DWR coating to block light rain and snow while still staying breathable. The Biozone insulation keeps things toasty in key areas, but there are pit zips for when you need to dump the heat fast. An interior media and goggle pocket, removable powder skirt, and roomy YKK zip pockets complete the package.

Pair these jackets with the Men’s TNP Lined Shell Pant (£165), or Women’s Insulated Pant (£145), both made with the same FN DRY 10K fabric and water-repellent exterior.

Our fave features are the abrasion-resistant kick panels and the added stretch for freedom of movement.

If you are planning to get shreddy, you’ll need a top-spec helmet to protect your noggin. Enter the unisex Mod1 Mips helmet (£105). It has a lightweight, low-profile design inspired by the classic skate-style helmet. It features a BOA 360 Fit System so you can dial in the perfect fit, plus fixed ventilation, removable liner/ear pads, and a seamless magnetic buckle. It offers top-level protection too, thanks to the MIPS Brain Protection System – a low-friction layer designed to reduce rotational motion transferred to the brain during an impact.

There is one last item to complete your get-up: a pair of Flight Path XL Factory Pilot Snow Goggles (£187), or for folks with smaller faces, the Flight Tracker XM or XS (£112 - £142). Both boast a huge field-of-view in all directions and top-spec lenses.

Don’t delay, head to fall-line.co.uk now to enter! www.oakley.com * If the products or sizes required are out of stock an item of a similar value will be offered.

HOW TO ENTER: FOR A CHANCE TO WIN THIS EPIC OAKLEY KIT, HEAD TO FALL-LINE.CO.UK BEFORE 5 MARCH, 2021

WORTH UP TO

£670 20 www.fall-line.co.uk

COMPETITION

PHOTO 2020 PETZL DISTRIBUTION/MATHIS DUMAS

WORTH £526

WIN

PETZL RAD RESCUE SYSTEM, CRAMPONS, HARNESS, AXE AND HEADLAMP

No one does ski mountaineering kit like Petzl – and now you can bag the best…

C

alling all ski mountaineering enthusiasts! If your idea of a perfect day out involves skiing among jaw-dropping seracs, negotiating bergschrunds and scaling big peaks – or this is an area of skiing you are keen to venture into – you need not just the knowledge but the kit. And no one does ski mountaineering kit quite like Petzl, who are offering one lucky winner the chance to bag £526 worth of gear.

First up is the Petzl RAD crevasse rescue system (£240), an ultra-lightweight rope kit that is top of our backcountry editor Martin Chester’s ‘recommended’ list. “It features an excellent 30m rope weighing only 660g and a micro-traxion locking pulley.

This provides a low-friction clutch for hauling,” says Martin. “With a rope this light, there is no excuse for only having one in the team.”

Also in the featherweight category are the Leopard crampons (£104). They feature a light but strong aluminium construction,

tool-free length adjustment and Cord-Tec flexible linking system that minimises bulk when they are stowed in your pack.

The Ride axe (£70) is equally as light and compact. It boasts all the tech, including a steel head, pick tapered to 3mm for good penetration in ice, plus a curved shaft and machined grip for good handling.

Next up is the Fly harness (£80). Ultra-lightweight (notice a trend here?), it can be donned with both feet on the ground, while wearing skis or crampons, and it features Petzl’s patented innovative buckle-free construction.

Big days often require early starts and/or late finishes, so you’ll need the Bindi headlamp (£32) in your pack. Weighing barely 35g, it has 200 lumen brightness, three lighting modes, and is rechargeable via a USB port.

Head to fall-line.co.uk now for your chance to win! www.petzl.com

HOW TO ENTER: FOR A CHANCE TO WIN ALL THIS PETZL GEAR, HEAD TO FALL-LINE.CO.UK BEFORE 5 MARCH, 2021 22 www.fall-line.co.uk

SEE MORE THAN EVER BEFORE

4D MAG™ Experience a visual revolution with the 4D MAG™ goggle featuring BirdsEye Vision™.

Soar with BirdsEye Vision™ ultrasporteu.com

01332 813 150

info@ultrasporteu.com

PHOTOS LUCERNE TOURISM

SLUFF LAKESIDE SKIING

24 www.fall-line.co.uk

ALPS BY BOAT Neil Guthrie from 2theAlps explores the Swiss canton of Lucerne, taking to the water to reach the epic lakeside ski resorts…

H

ere at 2theAlps we love exploring the more obscure corners of our favourite mountain range. We also love to find opportunities for unusual means of transport, so we were drawn to the Swiss canton of Lucerne. It’s better known as a summer destination but has much to recommend it in the winter months, not least the option to travel to the local ski resorts by boat across Lake Lucerne.

It’s a relatively accessible Alpine city from the UK, with excellent rail connections; just under 10 hours from St Pancras, or just over an hour from Zürich airport.

The city occupies an idyllic location on the northern shores of Lake Lucerne surrounded by majestic peaks, and is steeped in architectural history – bridges over the pretty

River Reuss date from the 14th century. Most parts are within a 10-minute walk, and the Bahnhofquai – where year-round boat services depart – is right in the centre of town, just a minute’s walk from Lucerne train station.

We spent three days in Lucerne last winter, exploring three of its lakeside ski resorts, taking the boat each day.

Although quicker train and bus combinations are usually available, we recommend the boat at least for one leg; there’s no more relaxing way to start a day on the slopes.

FRIDAY – RIGI KALTBAD

Day one takes us to Rigi Kaltbad, known locally as ‘Queen of the Mountains’. The first boat departs Bahnhofquai just after 9am; timetables are at sbb.ch/en/timetable.html.

We sit on the deck initially (most boats have outside space) to take in the magnificence of the jagged peaks rising up in all directions above Switzerland’s fifth largest lake, before the cold kicks in and we retreat, clomping in our ski boots, to the warmth of the café.

After 55 minutes we disembark at Vitznau, where an adjacent funicular climbs 1000m to Rigi Kaltbad. You can find your ski legs on an easy blue with panoramic views across the lake.

To access the main ski area, jump back on the funicular and head up to

Made it to dry land?

Let the funicular take the strain

We sit on the deck initially to take in the magnificence of the jagged peaks, before the cold kicks in and we retreat, clomping in our ski boots, to the warmth of the café

Zürich

SWITZERLAND Bahnhofquai Lake Lucerne

Beckenreid

Rigi Staffel resort Vitznau Brunnen Morschach Stoos resort Klewenalp resort Caption www.fall-line.co.uk 25

SLUFF LAKESIDE SKIING Get that floaty feeling in more ways than one

Rigi Staffel, the Clapham Junction of the cog railway world.

From here, four lifts serve a choice of red and blue slopes, with the summit topping out at 1797m. The long reds to skier’s right are a highlight, weaving between the trees, before crossing the railway tracks at the bottom. We pause for rösti at one of the many cosy slopeside huts.

You can retrace your steps for the journey home, stopping briefly at Rigi Kaltbad for a dip in its outdoor thermal spa. Or you can take a cable car from Rigi Kaltbad to Weggis (for a boat

connection) or train it all the way back via Arth-Goldau. ❆ rigi.ch

SATURDAY – KLEWENALP

Day two offers the most extensive skiing of all the local resorts at Klewenalp, pronounced ‘Kleevenalp’, not ‘Clue-n-alp’ as we discovered after baffling the locals when asking for directions. The first boat leaves just after 9am. After 70 minutes on board – time spent eating coffee and cake from the café while taking in the views – we disembark at Beckenreid for a

two-minute walk to the Klewenalp cable car.

The cable car ascends over 1100m, through and above the Lake Lucerne mist into glorious sunshine. Klewenalp is at a snow-secure altitude of 1600m offering 40km of open-mountain and tree-lined slopes, climbing to 1900m at the top end and linking with the resort of Stockhutte (1200m) at the eastern end.

Our favourite run is the panoramic red from the Chalen chairlift with the option of a mid-slope stop at the Tipi Stube hut for some Alpine-style

It’s possible to ski all the way down to the lakeside cable car station via an unpisted ski route offering a top-to-bottom descent of 1500m

PHOTO GREGOIRE CHAPPUIS

LAKE GENEVA SKI RESORTS BY BOAT

Although Lake Lucerne has more immediate lakeside skiing to hand, there are similar experiences to be had in other corners of the Alps, and Lake Geneva also has year-round ferry services.

We are big fans of the skiing at Rochers de Nayes (pictured) on the Swiss side above Montreux, and Thollon-Les-Mémises on the French side. Our favourite view from any slope in the Alps may well be that of Lake Geneva from the Vielle Caisses run in Thollon-Les-Mémises.

To make the journey by boat, coming from the Geneva direction, take the train to Lausanne. A 10-minute walk (or ride on the Metro) takes you to the lakeside to pick up the ferry for a 35-minute trip across the French border into Évian-les-Bains.

Thollon is a 20-minute bus or taxi ride up the hill. ❆ winter.thollonlesmemises-tourisme.com ❆ stations-de-ski.ch

26 www.fall-line.co.uk

Stoos has two linked ski areas and epic views of the lake

macaroni and cheesecake.

If you’re lucky with conditions and feeling adventurous, it’s possible to ski all the way down to the lakeside cable car station via an unpisted ski route offering a top-to-bottom descent of 1500m. Retrace your steps for the journey home, or opt for a quicker bus and train alternative via Stans. ❆ klewenalp.ch

SUNDAY – STOOS

Day three includes

a relaxing two-hour boat excursion and the world’s steepest funicular, so it’s one for the transport enthusiasts.

We take the same boat departure, just after 9am, and remain on board all the way to Brunnen.

Then it’s just a minute’s walk to the bus stop and a short ride (on bus B504) to the Stoos cable car station at Morschach.

The resort has two linked ski areas: Fronalpstock with easier skiing (still mainly reds) and the best views of the lake, and Klingenstock for a mix of challenging reds and blacks.

We get the legs burning on the Franz Heinzer piste, named after the 1991 Swiss world champion – it is an FIS-recognised race piste, 4km long, and incredibly steep.

For the journey home we recommend taking the world’s steepest funicular – proudly highlighted on the piste map with the label ‘weld rekord! – down to the fantastically named Schwyz Stoosbahn. Bus 501 takes you to Schwyz station to connect with a train to Lucerne in just over 40 minutes. ❆ stoos-muotatal.ch

www.fall-line.co.uk 27

SLUFF CHIC AS CHIPS

COURCHEVEL ON THE CHEAP

Can this playground of the rich be enjoyed on a budget? Will Robson investigates

A

PHOTO COURCHEVEL TOURISME

s winter draws on it’s impossible to know when, or if, any resorts in the Alps will welcome UK guests this season. But there are few skiers keener than Brits, so if there’s a way to ski safely before the spring thaw, we’ll be there.

The famous 3 Valleys resorts are doing their best to prepare for guests in a Covid world, not least Courchevel – one of the most prestigious ski spots in the French Alps, and a playground to the rich and famous.

Masking up, spacing in lift queues, and regular disinfection of public spaces are just some of the precautions Courchevel will put in place if it manages to open, as well as reducing the financial risk for guests, with ski pass refunds if

28 www.fall-line.co.uk

the resort gets locked down before or during your trip. It may be renowned for attracting wealthy clientele, but like every resort right now Courchevel is keen to present itself as good value.

But is it ever possible to do Courchevel ‘on the cheap’? I went on a recent visit to find out.

STAYING SOLVENT IN 1850 AND BELOW

It’s many years since Courchevel was known as a priced-out playground for the rich. That said, even back then, there were always more budget places to stay if you knew where to look – even at 1850, the highest and therefore most pricey of Courchevel’s three villages.

For example, Hôtel Olympic

in the heart of 1850, at £357 per person for a week’s B&B in a double room, is a bargain.

It also offers €35 per day lunch/ dinner vouchers at partner restaurants in 1850 and Moriond 1650, which work out at about 10% cheaper than buying from the menu on the day. Other (non-voucher) ways to save would be to keep half of the pizza-sized Milanese chicken escalope at Alessandro’s in Le Forum shopping centre, and have it in a baguette for lunch the next day!

For après snacks, Stephan at the Olympic puts a tray of homemade pastries on each landing; or you could sample a hot chocolate and crêpe at L’Arbe café around the corner.

If you catch the bus to Moriond

you can enjoy free pizza (4.30 to 7.30pm) with your drinks at the Fire and Ice bar at Portetta hotel.

Airbnbs are another way to save money. A quick search online and I found an apartment in Moriond 1650 near the centre of town, sleeping six, for just €150 per night. Self-catering means you can save money not eating out (nothing like a chairlift picnic!).

There are several large Carrefour and Sherpa supermarkets in most of the resorts, and the products are the same price across France.

The type of ski holiday people take has changed over the past 20 years too. Regular, cheap flights to airports closer to the 3 Valleys (such as Chambéry and Turin) mean weekend breaks are more common.

Getting back into the mountains will be all about the skiing, but finding less crowded activities for après-ski could become the norm

THE SKIING IS ALWAYS FIVE-STAR

Courchevel, together with seven other neighbouring resorts, forms one of the largest connected ski areas in the Alps, with 600km of slopes and over 300 marked runs.

Most British skiers buy a pass to access every skiable kilometre of the 3 Valleys, even though Courchevel alone has over 100 runs and 55 lifts.

To be fair, there’s not much saving in a Courchevel-only ski pass – a three-day Courchevel pass is just €18 less than an adult 3 Valleys, which costs €191, while a six-day full area pass costs €321, only €35 more than a Courchevel-only pass.

The 3 Valleys ski pass price is just about comparable to other French resorts. For example, Megève is offering the mega Mont Blanc Unlimited pass (includes Verbier and Courmayeur) for €202/€336 (three days/six days), offering six days for the price of five.

The Portes de Soleil pass, covering 600km of slopes, is €160/€240. A Val d’Isère-Tignes pass is €132/€252, but with half the amount of marked ski slopes.

You can also bag discounts on the 3 Valleys pass if you buy in a group of two or more, purchase a Family Pass (everybody pays the child rate), or the Saturday day pass (20% off an adult pass).

FOLIE DOUCE ON A BUDGET, AND OTHER SURPRISES

reasonable prices, where lunch will set you back about €12-15.

Over the back of the Saulire, admittedly just on the Méribel side, a steak frites-type of lunch at the famous Folie Douce brasserie can be had for a mere €12 a head. If you can, acquire a voucher that Folie Douce is known to give tour operators – the podium dancing and party atmosphere are free.

Courchevel is home to some of the most top-end restaurants in the Alps. A gourmet burger and fries at La Cave des Creux at the OTHER CHEAP AND top of the Aiguille de Fruits chairlift CHEERFUL THINGS TO DO will probably be the best burger Getting back into the mountains you ever eat – but it’ll cost you a will be all about the skiing, cool €39. You can also blow a but finding less crowded or week’s budget on a pudding at Le bar-centric activities for après-ski Sarkara, the world’s only Michelin or down-days could become two-star desert-only restaurant. the norm. Take To save pennies on the snowshoeing; mountain, the key is to eat at first glance, in snack bars, or places Ski France it may like the Bel Air (skifrance.co.uk), seem restaurant above which offers Hôtel 1650: great for Olympic, is giving 10% a panini on the off with the code ‘SKI10’ terrace at about for bookings made before €12. For a proper 31 October 2021. Under lunch, Le Bouc 18s go free.

Blanc at the top of courchevel.com the La Tania lift has good food and

excessively arduous, but local man Yann at Azimut Rando (seecourchevel.com) will take you on a 25-minute snowshoe into the woods, guided by your own flaming torch and the promise of Savoyard apple liqueur and a fondue in his specially-built 80-brick igloo. It costs €150 for a group of up to six people and includes snowshoe hire, guiding, drinks and fondue, which can work out as a great value après or dinner option.

When it’s safe to venture inside, the futuristic Aquamotion leisure pool complex near Courchevel Moriond (aquamotion-courchevel. com) is good value at just €9 for a two-hour swim, or you can bag five two-hour sessions for €35.

For an extra €13-23 you can also spend three hours sessioning the 110m ‘wild water river’ and flumes – bargain!

Après snowshoe, anyone? With tipple?

And fondue? And all for under €25?

We’re in! www.fall-line.co.uk 29

SLUFF WORKS OF ART

THE MAN BEHIND

THE MAPS

Gabriella Le Breton talks to James Niehues, the trail map artist whose piste maps have become works of art in themselves

J

ames Niehues is America’s most prolific trail map artist, having created over 260 piste maps for more than 200 different resorts across the globe. Revered by the likes of Chris Davenport, James has just released a book, The Man Behind the Maps, which exposes the intricate processes behind the niche genre that he dominates, and allows the reader to revel in the complex detail, masterful watercolours and pure beauty of these everyday artworks.

Here, Gabriella Le Breton speaks to the great man to delve even deeper into his art.

Is America’s most prolific trail map artist the job you dreamed about having as a child?

I grew up on a small farm in Western Colorado, among landscapes that varied from 10,000-foot mountains to deserts.

Outdoor adventures amidst this awesome scenery made me aspire to become a famous landscape artist. I didn’t ski, and therefore wasn’t aware of ski maps, until I moved to Denver with my family in the 1980s and contacted the legendary landscape artist Bill Brown to ask whether he might have an overflow of work painting ski maps. He gave me a small project, I worked hard to mimic his technique, and it became an inset for Winter Park’s 1987-88 ski map. Bill wanted to move on to another venture and turned over his ski map enquires to me. I embarked on a whole new career at the age of 40… and I couldn’t even ski.

PHOTOS LINDSAY PIERCE MARTIN, OPEN ROAD SKI COMPANY, JAMES NIEHUES

Talk us through the process of creating a new map...

I first seek aerial photographs, taking them myself whenever possible by chartering a small plane to fly above the resort and shooting the mountain from various angles, altitudes and perspectives. I’ll then sketch a scene which, once approved,

is transferred to the painting surface. I use gouache watercolour, as it’s easy to remove and repaint for future alterations and expansions. I paint on an illustration board that’s prepared with gesso [similar to acrylic paint, only thinner] so the paint doesn’t soak into the board. After another approval, the final painting is taken to a photo lab for the scan. I work on these scans to touch up areas and tweak the colour before sending it to the client, who then puts the trail names and symbols on the image.

What’s the greatest challenge within this process?

Quite simply, getting all slopes of a complex mountain in one flat representation of the real life, multi-faceted scene. My job is to translate what the skier will encounter – steepness, width of run, shadow or sunny side of the mountain, deciduous or coniferous trees, glade density, rocks and cliffs – as much as getting them around the mountain’s slopes. I take particular care to make sure all lift and trail lengths are relative to each other and truly represent the experience on the mountain. In this regard, I am more artist than cartographer.

You’ve said the dynamics you see in your aerial photographs sometimes need to be stretched to portray terrain as it actually skis. How do you even begin to do that?

It takes a lot of manipulation of the elements to connect all trails, but keep them relative to each other to show all sides. I make every effort to keep all runs running down-page, especially the steepest. Many perspectives

James has created over 260 piste maps, each wonderfully intricate

30 www.fall-line.co.uk

My job is to translate what the skier will encounter – steepness, width of run – as much as getting them around the mountain’s slopes

flow together to create the final composition, which will effectively help the skier navigate to different parts of the mountain. Once the sketch is transferred to the painting surface, I work with an airbrush to paint the sky and all the snow’s undulating surfaces. Steeper slopes are usually shaded to set them apart from the easier runs. Next up: tree shadows on the snow. The trees are the most time-consuming part. I’ve developed a technique that lets me create a tree-like texture then rewet the colour to blend and add the highlights and shadows. It is important to create the landforms with the sun’s light on the tree-covered slopes using shading.

How long does it typically take to paint a trail map?

A large ski resort takes about a week to compose into a sketch and a good two weeks to paint. That said, the book contains a chapter about painting the Breckenridge ski map, a process that saw me take aerial photographs in 1995 and only complete a full map in 2017. That was unusual.

Your miniature artworks adorn the walls of ski legends like Chris Davenport – and litter the ground below chairlifts. How do you feel about that?

The widespread use of my art has been rewarding. Skiers may not know my name, but my artwork is in so many pockets. I don’t know of another artist who can say that; it is satisfying to know that people depend on my art to navigate the mountain.

How do you see the future of trail map painting?

I have hopes that the hand-painted trail map will continue into the future as it remains the best way to create an image that best represents the experience, which does more than a simple map; it invites dreams and plans for the next adventure.

Is there a trail map artist you particularly admire, and would consider passing the baton on to?

Rad Smith has been turning to the hand painting of ski maps after rendering computer mapping images. He contacted me several years ago when he realised he couldn’t meet the standard of my images using computer software alone. His recognition of the value of hand painting, plus his computer understanding, gives him an edge that I hope will continue into the future. It’s important to keep that human touch and interpretation to convey the outdoor experience.

Map geeks rejoice!

James’ book is filled with his finest piste map illustrations

* ‘The Man Behind the Maps’ costs £85 on Amazon UK, or you can order via James’ website, jamesniehues.com. www.fall-line.co.uk 31

15 MINS WITH...

LORRAINE HUBER The Austrian former Freeride World Tour champion talks to Sophie Mead about the thrill of competing, how it feels to be in front of the camera, and what drives her in life

Sophie Mead: Having hung up your competition hat in 2018, you were offered a job last season as commentator on the Freeride World Tour. What was that transition like?

Lorraine Huber: I was offered a role as a field reporter for the Tour. That meant I was responsible for doing interviews at the finish line and also for the Insider video series, something I haven’t done before. I’m used to being in front of the camera, but always as an athlete and for my own projects, so I was really learning with each stop. I was nervous before the first live broadcast in Hakuba, which was a 20-minute piece explaining the decisions behind why the competition was postponed [due to changeable weather conditions].

I realised that in some ways it’s the same as being on camera as an athlete, because you have to perform at a very specific point in time. The difference with commentating is that you don’t have that fear of physical injury. But there are, on the other hand, social risks. In a way it boils down to the same feeling and effects.

PHOTOS ANTON BREY, DOM DAHER

SM: Do you prefer being in front of the camera as an athlete or presenter?

LH: I prefer being an athlete because for me that’s very simple – it’s about my own development. As an athlete, you’re making decisions on a daily basis to ensure that you can be at the top of your game and perform well. It’s something that you are doing directly for yourself. In this new role, the spotlight was on me but in a different way.

There were more moving parts; I worked as part of a team and that was new for me. I was starting again as a beginner!

I spent a long period of time developing to become World

Lorraine is used to life in the spotlight, both as an athlete and presenter

SM: Did your experience as a former champion help you connect with the athletes?

LH: When I was commentating I had so much empathy for the athletes who were crashing. I was like: “Oh, don’t worry, you’ll have your next chance soon,” because I know how it feels. It’s more in my nature to do the athlete interviews at the finish line because I’m at eye level – I enjoy being close to the action and the emotion; when you’re up in the commentary box you’re very removed from it all. I enjoyed the opportunity to bring in expertise, too. It’s great to be able to ask questions in such a way that you get those gold nuggets out of the athletes.

Lorraine in action during the 2018 Freeride World Tour in Verbier 32 www.fall-line.co.uk

Champion on the Tour and mastering those skills, whereas here I was throwing myself into the deep end again and I think it’s good. I’ve always been obsessed with learning.

SM: What does the Freeride World Tour mean to you?

LH: This new role was a way for me to be involved in a sport that I really loved. It was my thing; my jam! I loved it and I loved competing. There are some athletes who don’t enjoy it that much – for example, if things aren’t going to plan or aren’t going well, they just stop. Or they don’t like the whole waiting game and would rather be at home shredding with their friends or filming. I loved it, because I think the challenge is very unique.

It’s different to filming. If you’re filming, you have multiple chances that day to nail the lines that you want to film, whereas here you have one chance. One time on the Tour we flew to Alaska and spent two weeks studying the line, and you would rarely do that in a film project unless it’s a really special line. To put all that energy into one line really ups the ante. So the pressure is quite a ‘candy high’, and learning to deal with that was fascinating for me. I enjoyed learning that process, because I was honestly convinced that I didn’t have what it takes [to be FWT Champion]. I thought I wasn’t mentally tough enough and wasn’t a good competitor. I knew I was a decent skier, but thought I couldn’t nail it on the day.

When I was commentating I had so much empathy for the athletes who were crashing.

I was like: ‘Oh, don’t worry, you’ll have your next chance soon’

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15 MINUTES WITH... LORRAINE HUBER

It’s not a matter of who’s mentally tough or not… you have to learn the mental skills [to cope with the pressure], and so that was my path after competing

SM: Did the Freeride World Tour lead you towards these studies?

LH: I love teaching and I’ve been doing it since I was 16, working as a ski instructor. I’ve always been attracted to passing on knowledge and helping develop people’s skills, which I find super rewarding. I realised that I wouldn’t be able to ski at a competitive level all my life, and I wanted to have a job after being a sponsored athlete that I would feel equally passionate about. I considered full-time guiding, but it wasn’t quite intellectually stimulating enough for me. It is an amazing job and can be complex, but I didn’t feel 100% drawn to it as a full-time profession that I could still do in my seventies. I heard about the mentor college in Bregenz, went to a two-day open information event, and decided to pursue that. It helped to reassure me there’s not only skiing in this world; there are a lot of other things that I can get equally passionate about, and I needed to channel that passion into something that matters to me.

SM: One of your speciality areas of coaching is performance under pressure. Have you coached anyone on the Tour?

LH: I coached Hedvig Wessel [Norwegian freestyle skier] last season. I have done quite a bit of coaching, maybe 200 hours, as it’s part of my degree. I haven’t only been working with athletes though. One of the clients I recently worked was a 50-year-old man freshly divorced for the second time, trying to pick up the pieces of his life. It’s this personal development that I’m fascinated in. It’s not psychiatry or pathological; I’m not qualified to work with mentally ill people. I’m working with people who want to improve their potential, so athletes fall into that space because they are always looking for ways to get more out of themselves, and the mental part of it is huge. Some athletes realise that more than others. I’ll also help people who aren’t able to reach certain goals and are blocked for some reason.

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Performance under pressure is something Lorraine understands all too well

SM: When coaching athletes do you draw on your past experiences competing and the mental challenges you yourself faced?

LH: Absolutely. I see performance under pressure as one of my go-to fields, because I have so much experience in that area. It’s not enough to have the mental strength knowledge – you have to connect it with some kind of context or experience, so that you can create better tools for your clients.

For example, being able to relax is very important, because if you’re constantly tense it gets tiring.

Being able to switch off when you know the contest is delayed – and using the time for fun shredding or keeping up with strength training – is important, so you’re not constantly under tension and stress.

SM: What are your thoughts on the announcement of equal pay for male and female athletes?

LH: I think it’s super good. We could have done it years ago. In today’s modern world it’s the only way to do it.

People didn’t understand the system we had of prize money depending on the size of the category.

Importantly, it’s sending a really clear message that women are as valuable as the men and I think that’s very positive.

PHOTO ALEX KAISER

SM: Not being able to ski the competition face prior is a bit dangerous for athletes, isn’t it?

LH: Well, no. It’s a process of how to select the line, and how to study it so you can ski it without it being dangerous.

There’s so much that goes into it. You have to stay focussed and not be distracted by other competitors and the media buzz around you. Of course, pressure creates anxiety so competitors need to deal with that. It’s not a matter of who’s mentally tough or not; I didn’t realise that you have to learn the mental skills [to cope with the pressure], and so that was my path after competing. I’m just completing my masters in mental strength coaching.

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I get inspired by all sorts of different people at Alta…

From the 50-year-old snowblader to the 12-year-old ripper

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MY MOUNTAIN

ANDREW POLLARD ALTA, UTAH

Pro freeskier Andrew Pollard has been hitting the slopes of Alta since he was two – and this old mining town’s still full of magic…

Why base yourself in Alta?

For the snow and the people. It’s obviously really good to be skiing powder, but it’s also really important to be skiing that good snow with good friends. I like skiing up at Alta because it really is the culmination of those two things.

We generally tend to get a lot of good snow. But even when the snow is bad, there are always awesome people to go skiing with. I get inspired by all sorts of different people at Alta.

From the 50-year-old snowblader to the 12-year-old ripper who’s just learning how to do a 360 – it’s such a power spot with a real range of people.

Tell us about your first skiing experience here…

Growing up here at Alta, we were all about the early TGR movies like Tangerine Dream. And those films had at least three prominent Alta segments with skiers like Sage Cattabriga-Alosa, Dave McReynolds and Will Burks. We would always see them skiing around Alta and that would inspire us to follow in their footsteps. You could literally go watch them ski something and then get yourself fired up to go ski it later. I always loved riding the chairlift with those guys; that was always a cool experience as a kid.

Tell us about your best day ever skiing Alta…

Interlodge days. I’ve had only a couple of these sacred days.

If the road closes due to avalanche danger and you’re stuck up there, they’ll sometimes keep spinning the lifts just for those staying in Alta’s lodges. Those days are really special because you’re skiing the best pow ever and no one can get up from the valley.

This is why you try to get a lodge reservation up in Alta, then you don’t have to deal with the junk show of Utah traffic – you’re right where you need to be if it does snow and the road closes.

Favourite funny crash story from Alta?

What’s funny about Alta is that if you do crash or slam, someone else is always watching. It’s a very interactive ski resort, so a lot of times if you slam it tends to be under the chairlift and everyone’s going to see it. Crashing is not necessarily a bad thing, it’s just taking your turn.

Have you ever been banned or chased by patrol?

No – and I plan to keep it that way. Alta ski patrollers are pretty cool and support a lot of the freeride skiing in our

community. They’re pretty much our number one fans and they probably rip harder than you do. It’s important to say hello to ski patrol and also say thanks, because they’re working hard so that you can ski without a backpack (avalanche gear).

Which is your favourite Alta ski lift and why?

Wildcat. This is a fixed grip, double chairlift and I believe it’s the only lift that’s been running at Alta since I was a little kid. It’s my favorite chairlift because, for me, it’s super nostalgic and it feels like home when I sit on it.

Tell us something we don’t know about Alta…

Most people don’t know that it’s a mining town first and foremost. A lot of Alta’s terrain features are formed by the old mine. For example, all the cool undulations in the slope that create the jumps we love have been created by old mine tailings piles. That’s why Alta still skis so well on low snow years.

What’s good to eat in Alta?

The Goldminer’s Daughter – better known as the GMD – is your best slopeside grub spot. If you’re looking for a quick bite for lunch, from pizza to nachos and beer, the GMD is your go-to.

Favourite après bar in Alta?

The Peruvian Bar has music and is the spot for all of your grungy Cottonwood Canyon folk. This is pretty much the only bar on the hill. The delicacies include a bunch of different IPAs, some crusty local jam band, some popcorn and perhaps some trailmix. It’s pretty simple.

If you’re looking to enjoy a luxury resort experience, then Alta is probably not for you. But if you want to ski and experience an authentic ski culture and 50-year-old skiers that rip way harder than you do, then come on up.

Best local superstition?

Alta is almost definitely haunted because it’s riddled with dead miners. In terms of skiing superstition, DO NOT talk about the storm until the storm happens. The way storms work here is that they either under perform or over perform, there’s no in between. I’m very superstitious about people posting the forecast before it happens – that’s bad luck.

Is there anywhere we should avoid?

If you’re trying to ski powder, stay up at one of the lodges rather than trying to deal with the road; on powder days it can take three hours to drive eight miles! ❆ alta.com. To see more from Andrew on Alta, the FWT, his art and more, follow @apollski on Instagram. www.fall-line.co.uk 37

PHOTO ROCKO MENZYK

How many years have you been skiing?

Since I was two. My parents were busy managing a lodge in Alta, so skiing was how they kept us occupied. They would send us out on the ski hill every day while they were working.

It was lucky that I fell in love with it as we had no choice in the matter! Luckily skiing became my passion.

SPEED FREAKS GRAHAM BELL Graham is a five-time Olympic skier and former junior World Champ, but is most proud of his 12th place in the notorious Hahnenkamm race

TURBULENT TIMES

Aleksander Aamodt Kilde tore his knee last month while training in Hinterreit

PHOTO GEPA

Covid, crashes and cancellations… this year’s World Cup season is already full of drama

T

he 2020-21 World Cup season started under the same Covid cloud that had cut short the ’19-20 season. The race calendar had been rescheduled and safety measures put in place, but even so, an alarming number of racers started recording positive Covid tests.

World Cup champion Aleksander Aamodt Kilde tested positive after the opening race in Sölden, and the Swedish women’s team were forced to sit out the World Cup in Finland after a coach tested positive. For Swede Anna Swenn-Larsson the bad luck continued, and after returning home to Äre, she tested positive herself and was forced back into quarantine.

When she finally got herself on skis, she broke her ankle in a training accident.

Austrian Marco Schwarz and three Swiss, Loïc Meillard, Justin Murisier and Marco Odermatt, all tested positive in November but were able to resume racing after quarantine.

The racer worst hit by the virus was Manfred Moelgg, who was hospitalised in Brunico for a short period, stating: “This disease is costing me a lot of energy.” At 38, he’s one of the oldest Slalom racers on the tour, and thankfully his energy returned enough to post an eighth place in the Schladming Nightrace.

Once the season started to unfold it was clear the national teams with the best access to home glacier skiing were looking the best prepared, particularly the Swiss, Italians and the Norwegians.

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One exception was team USA, whose only summer training had been the postage stampsized glacier at Mt Hood in Oregon. Paula Moltzan scored a career best second place in the Lech Parallel, Tommy Ford placed second in the Santa Caterina GS, and Breezy Johnson has so far recorded four third place finishes in Downhill. Ryan Cochran-Siegle won his first race at the Bormio Super-G, and Mikaela Shiffrin emotionally won her first race since the death of her father last season, but declared her victory in the Courchevel GS did not mean she was back. The multitalented Shiffrin has stayed with her preferred technical disciplines, but has lacked the killer instinct that made her almost unbeatable.

The Covid situation did not improve much in January, with the classic Lauberhorn race in Wengen cancelled due to an outbreak of the ‘British’ strain of the virus taking hold in the town. A week later, the Hahnenkamm race in Kitzbühel looked under threat with another ‘British’ strain outbreak in nearby Jochberg. The two Slalom races were moved to Flachau in Salzburgerland, and the following weekend the speed events ran in Kitzbühel, all be it without the FIS race director Markus Waldner, who had himself tested positive for the virus.

Going into the World Championships in Cortina, taking place 8-21 February, the injury list makes for long and unpleasant reading. Lack of preparation and training time on tough courses, or the added stress of

racing in the time of Covid, has had a dramatic effect, and the Championships will run without many strong medal contenders.

Prior to Christmas in Val d’Isère, Austria’s Nicole Schmidhofer crashed through the safety nets at the compression, injuring her knee. The young Norwegian, Lucas Braathen, who won the season opener in Sölden, crashed spectacularly on the last gate in the Adelboden GS in January, also injuring his knee. Then, training in Garmisch, Swiss Mauro Caviezel suffered concussion and a knee injury, and Aleksander Aamodt Kilde tore knee ligaments training in Hinterreit.

The warm, fast snow conditions and a tail wind caused many of the racers' problems on the finish jump in Kitzbühel. Swiss Urs Kryenbühl took a horrific fall that echoed the bad crashes of Scott Macartney and Daniel Albrecht in the past. Urs caught the wind above his ski tips at 87mph, hitting the ground head first, suffering concussion, a broken collarbone and a torn knee. In the same race USA’s Ryan Cochran-Siegle also crashed spectacularly on the finish traverse, suffering a minor fracture to his neck.

Finally, the host nation for the World Championships will be without Sofia Goggia after she fell in foggy conditions fracturing the tibial plateau in her right knee while skiing back to her hotel in Garmisch.

It has been a difficult season so far – let us hope the World Championships can run without drama, mishap or injury.

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IN SEARCH OF POWDER

Crazy for

Kosovo Bear paw prints, epic lines and the wilderness of the Šar Mountains all add up to one epic adventure WORDS AND PHOTOS TORD NILSON AND FINLAY MICKEL

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IN SEARCH OF POWDER KOSOVO

E

very summer, a few of us from Atomic UK sit down over a beer and ponder how we can take some of our UK customers on an unforgettable experience, while also putting the latest Atomic kit through its paces.

It is essential that the trip is a reflection of the upcoming products; in 2018, for example, we travelled to the notorious downhill race piste at Kitzbühel to launch the, at the time, brand new Redster piste range.

Last season it was backcountry and touring kit we were keen to test, including the Backland ski range and Hawx Prime XTD boots, along with the Shift 10 bindings. After many hours of discussion, flight searching and research into January snow depths, we decided that Lynx Freeride in Kosovo was to be our next destination.

Lynx Freeride is a cat skiing operation in Brezovica, founded by Croatian snowboarder Sebastian Fleiss and legend of Kosovan skiing Hamdi ‘Hamda’ Hisari. Straight away from the first email, Seb understood that behind every Atomic testing trip is an adventure – and boy, what an unforgettable adventure did they have planned for us.

January came around and four members of Atomic staff and nine customers from across the UK – along with 32 pairs of brand new test skis and 10 pairs of boots – set off on a mammoth flight across Europe, via Zurich, to Pristina in Kosovo. We had no idea what was awaiting us in the Balkan state.

We arrived at the small and almost deserted Pristina airport, and were met by Seb and his fleet of Nissan Patrols.

We jumped in and began our journey into the glorious Šar mountain range.

Everyone had a mix of excitement and nervousness of not knowing what awaited us in Brezovica. As we pulled off the motorway and started heading up into the mountains the roads got increasingly smaller and the feeling of remoteness was ever highlighted by the sporadic

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The latest Atomic kit gets set to be thoroughly put through its paces

housing and the feeling of going back in time. We were hustled straight into what would become our local (and only!) restaurant, the wonderfully named Restaurant Gold, which served us a never-ending amount of hearty food – perfectly cooked meat and vegetables with feta cheese, olives and warm homemade bread – along with carafes of local wine and beer.

Then it was back to our accommodation, which consisted a whole apartment building only five minutes up the road from the restaurant and 20 minutes from the resort. Time for bed; we had skiing to do tomorrow.

THE CRAZY CAT DRIVER The cat tries to force its way up a goat track. Standard!

We woke to sunshine and were ready to tackle whatever Kosovo could throw at us. We got kitted up and set off with our guides, Seb, Hamda and Dani, on the drive up to the

Behind every Atomic testing trip is an adventure, and boy, what an unforgettable adventure did the team at Lynx Freeride have planned

Let the hike into the wonderful unknown begin www.fall-line.co.uk 45

We dropped in one by one from the sunshine into a cold, shaded face, which was covered with glorious, thigh-deep powder

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IN SEARCH OF POWDER KOSOVO

small resort of Brezovica, the convoy led by Seb who had acquired a former UN Land Rover Defender, painted white and fully kitted out in the back for soldiers.

Arriving at the resort – which has nine lifts and almost 16km of pistes – was like travelling back several decades: ski rental consisted of straight ’90s skis, and it was not unusual to find bullet casings on the ground. But the locals were thrilled to have us there. No doubt, we were the main attraction in town that week.

Our cat arrived and the man driving (we weren’t sure of his name, but we’ll refer to him as the Chain-Smoking Crazy Cat Driver) loaded us up and off we went, churning up the powder as he smashed up a goat track at the edge of the resort. It was all going well until we hit a rather precarious part of the track that had a big snow drift on the right-hand side and a 40-foot drop on the left.

Needless to say, the whole crew were more happy to jump out and stand a fair few paces away from the cat as the Chain-Smoking Crazy Cat Driver tried churning his way up the impossible goat track before even he admitted defeat and turned back.

We changed course, and decided to head out on a big traverse into fresh, windblown powder. This was what we were after – super-light, upper-mountain snow.

The adventure became even more adventurous when we needed to navigate our way down, over, and sometimes in, a river that led back to the resort. A great way of checking the new Shift 10 release mechanism!

The Chain-Smoking Crazy Cat Driver then decided to give us a view for our picnic lunch, so with everyone back on board, he went full throttle through waist-deep powder straight up the peak next to Brezovica. And he kept going, determined as ever, avoiding nothing and churning through everything until we finally reached the top peak. Here he stopped, got out, and placed out a wonderful traditional Balkan picnic on the tracks of the piste machine.

As the light was fading into a wonderful golden orange light, we skied down through small fir trees and soft, powder while our friendly cat driver drove next to us all the way down to our vehicles in the resort car park.

CAT UP, POW DOWN, AND REPEAT

Day two and we were as excited as ever to get back out into this epic area of outstanding beauty and wilderness.

Tord heads down the gully under the unused lift

The entire Šar Range beckons

We took the cat up on the opposite side of the mountain to the previous day, and after a quick 20-minute hike we were suddenly in North Macedonia, from where we could see the whole Šar Range and three countries: Kosovo, North Macedonia and Albania.

Having taken in the views, we dropped in one by one from the sunshine into a cold, shaded face, which was covered with glorious, thigh-deep powder.

The run continued into upper mountain trees at more than 2000m; an unusual sight anywhere, but especially in Europe.

We kept sessioning that face until the afternoon when most of the group had decided that a beer back at base was calling them. However, there’s always time for one more run (especially when you have your own cat!), so a small group of us headed up in the fading golden-hour light to grab an incredible last run down through the magical Kosovan powder straight to the bar to enjoy a beer with our guides.

The importance of Atomic's testing trips is that we want to put the skis through different situations, so on day three it was time to grab the lightest Backland skis and boots, some skins, and get touring.

We drove to Prevalla, a village at 1500m. Skis and skins donned, we set off through the woodland for our four-hour

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IN SEARCH OF POWDER KOSOVO

skin up into the mountains, stopping for lunch at 2100m, and then, for those who continued, topping out at 2650m, again at the North Macedonian border.

At that point our, for the most part, relaxed guide Hamda came into his own and used his local knowledge to safely get us down the steep and exposed terrain, which then led into a mammoth ski back to the vehicles through open Arctic landscape, into tight woodland and then finally into vast powder farmland fields. What a day.

Earning turns: hiking up from the Macedonian border

Pristina

KOSOVO Brezovica ski resort

NORTH

ALBANIA

GHOST LIFTS AND GALES

Throughout the week a couple of us had been eyeing up a gully that started at the peak of Brezovica, but the lift that serviced it was disused and beyond repair.

In fact, the lift had been built for the Sarajevo Olympics in 1984 as the backup run for the Downhill. However, due to it being built slightly too long, it went into North Macedonia and therefore caused a political uproar; as a result it has only ever run for two days since 1984.

A couple of us, along with one of our guides, Hamda, took the 40-minute hike from the cat track and headed up towards 2200m, while enjoying the incredible views of the valleys of North Macedonia. Reaching the top, we surveyed the ski lift: totally unused and untouched for over 30 years it had an eerie, ghost-like feel to it – plus it was blowing a gale up there.

Nonetheless, there was a gully to be skied and we were going to do it. Dropping in we were met by a horrible scraping sound of ice, and for a split second we questioned if it had all been worth it. The second turn answered our question. It was waist-deep, incredible powder – the lightest of the trip.

Fresh pow led to shrubbery and small trees for some awesome, super-fun playful skiing and the perfect way to end an incredible, wild trip. It was a trip that ticked every box when it came to adventure, and each day had stories

SERBIA

MONTENEGRO Montenegro

MACEDONIA North Macedonia

Albania

DO IT

Atomic flew from Edinburgh to Pristina, via Zurich, with Austrian Airlines (austrian.com).

Lynx Freeride (lynxfreeride.com) offers a seven-night package from €1600, including full-board

accommodation at Grand Gjeravica hotel, six days of cat skiing, two guides per group, transfers on and off the mountain, and avalanche equipment hire, plus airport transfers (for groups bigger than six).

that were wilder than the next; bear paw prints found outside our accommodation, epic lines accessed by Chain-Smoking Crazy Cat Driver, the wilderness of the Šar Mountains, all topped off by the incredible people of Kosovo who were the most hospitable we’ve ever come across. We came for an adventure – and we found it.

It was a trip that ticked every box when it came to adventure, and each day had stories that were wilder than the next

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Lowering your parter Do not belay directly off a temporary anchor of dubious strength.

Helping a partner

The belayer is tethered to the anchor, keeping the tether taut to reduce the chance of shock loading. The belayer takes a braced stance, possibly on a platform dug in the snow, and belays off the harness.

If you think your partner may have difficulty descending a couloir, stay above him/her with the rope and equipment for belaying and assisting the descent.

Start by finding an anchor Solution 1: make a temporary anchor in the snow (example: ice axe deadman).

Solution 2 : find a natural anchor (example: rock horn, tree...).

Movement of the second On a fixed natural anchor, the second can set up a rappel to descend the difficult section. Otherwise, he/she should downclimb or ski.

Example of anchors

Once tethered to the anchor, you can throw the rope with a carabiner so that the 1st skier can easily attach themselves

Remember that before using your equipment, you must have read and understood the supplied Instructions for Use and seek professional instruction. Further technical advice and videos available at

r e b s t m h e g i N to rem e alon g n i e, rid ign up? p a c s of es do we s t n ome Where m n … twee n above e b d iche explosio w d n r n, sa ial glitte u f y t l fami a celes n o Full ght withOWES at niDS GEMMA B

PHOTO SKISTAR

WO

R

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IN SEAR CH OF

FUN

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Hardcore the conditions may have been, yet up ahead my little daughter was whooping and hooning down the mountain like a mad thing

Dark Nordic nights set in just after lunch

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Have lights, will ski: Trysil's vast floodlit night skiing area

IN SEARCH OF FUN FAMILY TRIP TO TRYSIL

T

he night was witching-hour black, a whipping wind threatening to lacerate my face scattered tiny snow pebbles across the icy piste, and it was very, very cold. Hardcore the conditions may have been, yet up ahead my sweet little blonde-haired daughter was whooping and hooning down the mountain like a mad thing. Only six years old and this, her first experience of night skiing, was making her deliriously happy.

Dark Nordic nights set in early here in the Norwegian resort of Trysil in mid-winter, not long after lunchtime in fact, and so accordingly the country’s largest resort offers a vast floodlit area of night skiing several times a week, when the very lucky might even get to ski beneath the Northern Lights.

The Arctic Circle may still have been a long way north — Trysil, in the county of Innlandet, is 125 miles north-east of Oslo, near the Swedish border — but the landscape resembles Lapland with its rolling icing sugar hills and endless pine forests, doused in an ethereal half-light that negates the need for sunglasses and colours the sky unbelievable shades of hot pink, cherry, and neon lilac.

One of Scandinavia’s most popular resorts, it is favoured by families for its excellent ski schools, ski-in, ski-out accommodation, reliable snow and a long season running from November until May. Last winter brought another reason to head to the region, with the launch of the Scandinavian Mountain Resorts Airport, a game-changing new international hub over the border in Sweden.

Lying 10 minutes from Sälen, one of Sweden’s most popular ski areas, and 40 from Trysil, it created a direct link from the UK (and other European airports) to make ski holidays here more viable, swapping a flight to Oslo and a three-hour transfer for a two-hour direct flight from Heathrow and much shorter drive.

At least that was the plan. Things didn’t get off to the best start when, a few days before the inaugural Heathrow departure with SAS at the end of 2019, we were told UK flights were blocked due to administration and licensing problems. We would have to go via Oslo after all. The transfer buses were all full so we were forced to take a taxi, a journey filled with wonderment at the beautiful Christmas-card snowscapes we crossed, and at the £300 price-tag.

Eventually flights did commence in early 2020, but now, of course, the current season has its own problems (check the latest government travel advice if you’re considering a trip imminently).

Once things are back to normal though, the airport has the potential to revolutionise skiing in Scandinavia for Brits, making it a match for the Alps and reshaping our mental ski map of Europe.

That those visiting Salen can book an airport transfer by dog-sled was a strong temptation, but we plumped for Trysil, with a higher ski area, 31 lifts, and 68 slopes – a fun mix of pristine groomers, tree runs and steeps.

Both resorts are smoothly operated by SkiStar, along with five other resorts in Sweden and Norway, including Åre and Hemsedal, and the company was one of 33 private investors in the airport. In Trysil, SkiStar franchises two huge Radissons, which sit on either side of the 1132m Trysilsfjellet mountain, at the foot of the pistes.

Ours, the Radisson Blu Mountain Resort & Residences, was the more chilled out-of-towner on the north side, predominantly self-catering apartments but also offering indulgent buffet dinners where the kids were enamoured by a help-yourself ice-cream station. Though it lacks the indoor surf wave and bowling alley of its sister hotel in Trysil’s main town, its children’s play room with built-in slide, and sleek spa with hot outdoor pools for poaching beneath the stars were enough for us.

PHOTOS SKISTAR

Ski in, ski out, and repeat…

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IN SEARCH OF FUN FAMILY TRIP TO TRYSIL

THE REAL SCANDINAVIA

I rose before dawn on the first morning to take my youngest, Hamish, to his ski lesson, a short bus ride away, while it was still dark. Smiling instructors fluent in English, and a fenced learner’s slope dotted with toys, gates and obstacles, were unfortunately insufficient compensation in my tearful three-year-old’s eyes for having to venture out in what was technically still night-time, to cross an icy piste and be left with strangers. It was clearly not going to work for him, so I cancelled the sessions and took him on sledging adventures instead.

My daughter’s classes were a different story, and she happily jettisoned off to perfect her turns each day, at the more reasonable time of 10.30am, and was soon riding the button with the irreverent slouch of a park rat.

PHOTOS OLA MATSSON

Smiling instructors and a fenced learner’s slope… my daughter happily jettisoned off to perfect her turns each day For tag-teaming parents like us, the well-organised, from-the-door lift network and night skiing made it easy to slip in a few cheeky solo runs. We could quickly head round to the main part of the resort to charge some powder in the trees and hit a cache of black runs at Høgegga. From February onwards, lifts start at 7am twice a week, expanding the day further.

Our side of the resort was purpose built, in the style of many American resorts, though enclaves of sexy black timber cabins with cartwheel-sized firepits were tucked away in the forest (next time I’d love to rent one of those).

For nibbles of Scandinavian culture we headed to downtown Trysil, a short shuttle bus ride away, or a longish one if you accidentally stay on for two loops as we did.

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Family ski time followed by a few cheeky solo runs. Score

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IN SEARCH OF FUN FAMILY TRIP TO TRYSIL

Dreamy descents at the farthest-flung edge of the winter realm

ESSENTIALS TRAVEL SAS (flysas.com) has flights from Heathrow to the Scandinavian Mountain Resorts Airport from £99 each way.

Shared bus transfers (salenbuss.savea.se/trysil) cost from 350 SEK (£31)pp, or half price for children aged 11 and under. Private transfers from 1780 SEK (£158) per group.

STAY Radisson Blu Mountain Resort & Residences in Trysil

Trysil Skimuseum is a treasure trove of ski history

(radissonhotels.com) has doubles from 1040 NOK (£90) per night, room only. Two interconnecting rooms for a family of four cost from 2050 NOK (£174).

SKI A week's ski pass for Trysil at Easter 2021 costs from €247 per adult, €197 per youth (7-17 yrs), children aged six and under free. A ‘parent pass’, which can be shared between two adults, costs €333 per week. Book via skistar.com.

than Blizzard of Aahhh’s, yet somehow the ferocity of the weather felt invigorating. A sense of being somewhere wild, at the farthest-flung edge of the winter realm, with endless views across magical wooded backcountry, veined by hundreds of kilometres of cross-country trails we wished we’d have time to explore, felt like the real Scandinavia.

This is why you come.

The era of the new airport may have got off to a start more wobbly than a three-year-old on a windy Poma, but it’s sure to get into its swing before too long.

My own celebrations were rare moments of escape…

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PHOTO SKISTAR

PHOTOS GEMMA BOWES

If there is a Scandi equivalent to Orientalism, the fetishisation and romanticisation of all that hygge, friluftsliv-y Nordic culture, this was the place to invoke it.

Pastel-coloured clapperboard buildings housed stylish bakeries and homeware stores, and we lost some hours comparing delicious local beers at Kveik, a hip brewpub.

One particularly cool white building caught my eye and, taking it for a boutique hotel, I photographed it, only discovering when googling later it was actually a funeral parlour. It’s that kind of town.

The excellent Trysil Skimuseum tells how the town was home to the world’s first ski competition in 1857, its first ski club, started in 1861, and first female ski competitor, in 1863.

It also details the origins of cross-country skiing, developed by a local priest in the 1700s, who skied with one long ski, for gliding, one short for pushing. Beautiful wooden skis adorn the walls, including a pole dating to 1780.

An après-ski disco in the hotel bar one night bar was led

by Valle, the resort’s snowman mascot who seemed to be afforded Mr Tumble-level status, and who kept popping up, to lead kids on night skiing processions, or to high-five ski class graduates receiving their certificates. We sneered, but our kids were into it.

My own celebrations were rare moments of escape, riding alone at night, when icy speed and a celestial glitter explosion above made up for the fact I’d ended up doing more childcare than planned. My constellation prize.

One afternoon, riding back alone near the summit, I was hammered by the most powerful winds I’ve ever experienced — the result of expansive landscapes uninterrupted by any seriously huge mountains. My beanie was swept off, I was blown sideways and back uphill exiting the Poma and my final run was more Blizzard of Arse

The microfibre piste map

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SKI JOURNAL

DOLOMITES

LA DOLCE VITA

Skiing in the Dolomites has long been on Rich Evans’ skiing bucket list.

Bring on the mighty peaks. And the wine. And the world-class photography…

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PHOTOS ALEX FILTZ

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SKI JOURNAL

DOLOMITES

SUNDAY

08:00 Good morning Kronplatz! We’ve woken to wall to wall sunshine. Today should be a good day. Amber, my wife, and I arrived late last night after a ridiculously beautiful drive along Lake Garda.

10:24 We’re boarding the shuttle bus, later than expected – the buffet breakfast at the Hotel Winkler was a monster.

We take the main bubble to Kronplatz summit (2275m) where we are greeted by 360-degree views and a huge metal bell, the Concordia Peace Bell.

10:46 We set off on red 11, which feeds into red 29: a top-to-bottom warm up that does just that. No need for a piste map here – all the lifts on Kronplatz mountain (nicknamed ‘panettone’ due to its circular shape) bring you back to the summit. There is no fresh snow, but the pistes are in tip top condition.

12:20 Having skied through San Vigilio (along with San Martin, it forms the Ladin part of the Kronplatz region) we’re at the top of Pix du Planes. Amber asks an instructor his thoughts on the black run to Piculin. He tells her it’s ‘a black black’ so she opts for a coffee instead. The instructor was right: it’s steep, icy in places, and if I didn’t keep stopping to take photos it would be a real leg burner.

14:07 We are lapping the Marchner and Belvedere bubbles, due to their wide and fast network of blues and reds, rather than the fact the lifts have heated seats and wifi, honest…

16:30 Our legs are beat. It’s sauna-time back at the Winkler where swimwear is banned. Leaving our modesty at the door, we sweat it out for three whole minutes before making a dash for the outdoor pool with swimwear back on.

The bell! The Concordia Peace Bell, to be precise

MONDAY

10:15 The high pressure weather system is firmly locked in.

No new snow is on the forecast, but we’re not complaining.

11:01 We’re cruising down Ried, a stunning 10km run through the trees. At the end you can hop on a train to the neighbouring resort of 3 Zinnen, where we’re moving onto later today.

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Kronplatz's summit is home to the newly-opened Lumen museum of photography

11:50 We rush back to the Plateau chair – the Concordia Bell rings at noon every day (as well as when a country abolishes the death penalty). Will we make it in time?!

12:00 “Dong! Dong!” Darn it, we can hear it but not see it.

I pole frantically, ski around the corner and there it is, the impressive bell still swinging.

13:03 After several laps of the long and wide reds off the Olang bubble, we stop for homemade minestrone soup at the cosy Graziani Lodge, located at Plan de Corones.

14:50 It’s time to put my cultural head on and visit the newly-opened Lumen museum of photography, located at the summit. The dramatic glass building cantilevers out over the mountain and has four floors showcasing work from some of the most famous international mountain photographers (and, brilliantly, you can keep your ski boots on…).

16:50 We’re back at base, packing our bags, ready to head to 3 Zinnen, 35 minutes’ drive away. When we arrive at the Post Hotel in San Candido it’s a distinctly chilly -5 degrees and dark clouds hover overhead. Could snow finally be on the horizon?

World class photography…

…and you can keep your ski boots on while you admire it!

The dramatic glass building cantilevers out…showcasing work from some of the most famous mountain photographers

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SKI JOURNAL

DOLOMITES

TUESDAY

PHOTOS KOTTERSTEGER

08:05 The answer is: no. We wake to more blinding sunshine.

The imposing rock formations from the bedroom window are stunning; Kronplatz had great views, but this was the Dolomites I was expecting.

10:05 Our mission for today is the Giro Delle Cime, a well-marked tour of the resort. There are both short and long versions, and we’re opting for the shorter version today.

The Helm Barn Monte Elmo bubble delivers us to start and we’re off.

10:31 We’ve arrived at the top of a new heated chair and the views are jaw-dropping. Wow, just wow – a sea of towering jagged peaks. Though, still no sign of the 3 Zinnen, the peaks that are all over the promotional material and after which the area is named. Must ask a local…

12:35 We follow the Giro Delle Cime on meandering blue and red runs through the trees, stopping briefly for a delicious arrabbiata pasta at the Helm Berg restaurant (how do Italians make even the basics taste so good?).

13:55 We’re at the top of the new No. 16 chair. There are more snow cannons than people; it’s like our own private ski resort.

15:41 We’re back at base and somehow manage to work out where to get a bus back to San Candido.

16:04 We head out to explore the town. It’s like a mini Innsbruck – beautiful with lots of coffee shops and bars, mountain views from every corner. Mounds of snow are piled up along the roads; the raw material for the Snow Carving World Championships that will take place in the coming days.

18:05 We have a drink at the Post Hotel bar and get talking to some locals. Apparently, those 3 Zinnen we’ve spent the day looking for are not visible from anywhere here.

Rookie error…

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Mounds of snow are piled up along the roads; the raw material for the Snow Carving World Championships

3 Zinnen: a sea of towering jagged peaks – and the occasional snow carving

WEDNESDAY

10:29 After a short and beautiful drive we’re parked up at Signaue, ready to tackle the Grand Giro Delle Cime: three valleys, five mountains and 5600 metres elevation gain.

We’re game.

10:55 Talk about jumping in head, or rather feet, first: I’ve set off down the black Holzriese run, the steepest groomed piste in Italy at 71%. Gulp. The legs are burning, the adrenaline flowing, when was the last time I edged these skis…

11:16 I’ve survived! And having reunited with Amber at the top of the brilliantly-named Bad Moos bubble we are admiring a humungous snowman family. Think modest two-storey house and you’ll be about right.

11:35 We follow the Blue 1 Skiweg. It’s both stunning and surreal – there are a couple of travelators to take you over the flat sections, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Solitude and scenery you’d usually hike for an hour to find.

12:55 After a short bus journey to Padola to fill in the last part of the Giro, we stop for lunch on the terrace of the Col d’la Tenda, surrounded by views of jagged steep peaks.

14:17 Bellies full of pasta, we drag ourselves away and head down the cruisey blue 50.

14:50 The bus is bang on time and delivers us back to our car.

17:20 Having admired the transformation of the snow mounds that are now impressive sculptures – everything from polar bears to an intricate-looking Romeo and Juliet – we hit the road. Destination: Alta Badia.

18:40 A full 90 minutes of twists and bends and we arrive at the Hotel Marmolada in Corvara. We hit the sack early – it’s been a hell of a ski day, and we have more to do tomorrow.

DON’T MISS

The Lumen, Kronplatz A beautiful 1800-square-metre gallery at the Kronplatz summit that explores mountain photography from history to the present.

Reid run, Kronplatz A stunning 10km-long red run that twists and turns through the trees – don’t forget the camera.

Grand Giro Delle Cime, 3 Zinnen A well-marked tour through the UNESCO Dolomites taking in mellow skiing, travelators and a sense of solitude you’ll usually have to hike miles to find.

Sommelier on the Slopes, Alta Badia Accompanied by a guide and expert sommelier, it’s a unique experience that offers great skiing combined with a sampling of South Tyrol’s finest wines. €30 per person.

Lagazuoi Tour (aka The Hidden Valley), Alta Badia Dolomites panorama meets world history on this panoramic ski circuit on the Lagazuoi mountain.

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SKI JOURNAL

THURSDAY

We meet guide Stefanie at the Col Alt bubble (on the site of the first chairlift in Italy, opened in 1946) and we’re off to do the Lagazuoi Circuit.

10:38 After a couple of runs we’re in a queue for a taxi in San Cassiano village – the first queue we’ve seen all week – to reach the Falzarego Pass.

11:23 We’re stepping out of the cable car at 2778m where the views of the fossilised volcanic stacks in the distance are so stunning even local Stefanie is taking photos. “I never get bored of the views,” she says. The awe-inspiring views are tempered with the knowledge that, right here, thousands of men were killed as Austria and Italy fought in the First World War. You can still see the wartime trenches and entrances to tunnels.

10:00

PHOTO ALEX MOLING

DOLOMITES

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Next stop: the Hidden Valley…

12:07 We ski the 7.5km-long Armentarola piste past craggy mountains and ice falls, with not a lift or building in sight.

I can see why it’s nicknamed the ‘Hidden Valley’.

12:30 Next, the most environmentally-friendly lift there is: horses. Noriker horses work in pairs to drag about 40 people on skis behind them. Yee-haa!

13:08 After passing back through San Cassiano and hooning some mellow reds, we stop for lunch at the Pralongia Rifugio. A hotspot for foodies, Michelin-starred chefs often make guest appearances here. No such luck for us - though the mushroom polenta is the tastiest thing I’ve ever eaten on the mountain, ever.

14:13 We’re back on our skis and heading towards Corvara, passing a mountain that was bombed in the war leaving a massive crater. We bid farewell to Stefanie.

The most environmentally-friendly lift there is… Noriker horses work in pairs to drag about 40 people on skis behind them. Yee-haa!

PHOTO ALEX MOLING

PHOTO FREDDY PLANINSCHEK

Let the Lagazuoi Circuit begin. Cue horses and hooning

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SKI JOURNAL DOLOMITES FRIDAY

09:27 A different tour today: Sommelier on the Slopes.

What could go wrong?

10:20 We are sat at L’Tabla restaurant at the top of Lift 4, being introduced to our sommelier Cameilia, who is smartly dressed in black tie… and ski boots. We taste two different wines: a Kettmeir Brut Rosé and Pinot Grigio Valle Isarco 2018. We learn the Ladin for cheers – “vives!”

11:20 A couple of runs later and we’re at Rifugio Bioch for our second tasting. This time we’re on the red, first a Weingut Vernatsch Donà, then a Pinot Nero Riserva Mazon.

The sommelier tells us the latter will be even better in another two years; it tastes pretty great to me now.

12:33 Claudia, our guide, has brought us to the top of the World Cup course, Black 17 Gran Risa. She clearly has a sense of humour. It’s steep, and fast, and I regret finishing that second glass of red…

13:32 Somehow I survived with all limbs intact. Now it’s a ski through San Cassiano and up to Rifugio Bioch Hütte for lunch. Markus the proprietor gives a tour of his wine cellar, showcasing over 500 different wines from Kazakhstan to California. Sadly, we miss seeing ‘sabrage’ (the cutting off the top of a bottle of champagne with a ski).

15:18 After an Italian feast we get our first an introduction to Latschen pine cone schnapps. We toast to a fantastic Dolomites adventure, which is sadly now over. Time to return to base and pack.

16:50 Bags loaded, I decide to check tomorrow’s weather forecast: snow. My powder curse hits again. Am I disappointed? Heck no, this is a place where powder is simply a bonus.

Fine wines and the Black 17 Gran Risa… Vives!

PHOTOS RICH EVANS

A different tour today: Sommelier on the Slopes.

What could go wrong?

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ESSENTIALS TRAVEL Innsbruck is the closest airport, 105km from Kronplatz and 130km from 3 Zinnen and Alta Badia. There are regular bus services to the resorts as well as car hire.

STAY The Winkler Hotel in Kronplatz (winklerhotels.com) offers doubles from €140 per person per night, half-board. The Hotel Post in San Candido (posthotel.it) offers doubles from €105 per person per

night, half-board. Hotel Marmolada in Corvara (marmolada.org) offers doubles from €170 per person per night, half-board.

SKI Day passes cost from €54 in Kronplatz (kronplatz.com/en); from €53 in 3 Zinnen (dreizinnen.com/en); and from €54 in Alta Badia (altabadia.org/en).

A Dolomiti Superski day pass costs from €58 (dolomitisuperski.com).

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BACKCOUNTRY A SPANISH INVITATION Come spend a weekend exploring one of the Pyrenees’ quirkiest spots, they said.

Heck, we’re there, came the answer…

WORDS ERIC KENDALL PHOTOS PENNY KENDALL

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Val d'Aran guide Roger Martorell surveys his kingdom

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BACKCOUNTRY VAL D’ARAN, PYRENEES

“H

ello Fall-Line, I’m mountain guide Roger Martorell, based in Val d’Aran, Spanish Pyrenees… I would like to invite you to get to know the area and discover all the posibilities of our mountains.”

That’s the kind of email that gets my attention. The only problem is that we have just two short days during which our paths can cross – not long when you see the size of Baqueira Beret, Roger’s home resort. But you’ve got to start somewhere.

DAY ONE

It’s easy to spot Roger and the Snoworks team of instructors and clients we’re joining for their final day of a backcountry week. At 9 o’clock this February morning the vast, glossy restaurant-café El Bosque, one lift up from Baqueira’s centre, is empty but for them. Given the typical (i.e. late)

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South-facing loveliness: Roger skis the shoulder of Tuc de Beret

local dinner time – a major hazard for skiers – most people are still in bed, meaning we have the whole resort, not just the café, to ourselves. Even if it had just snowed a foot overnight (it hasn’t), I suspect there’d be no competition for fresh tracks.

Today’s plan sounds good: a climb to an in-bounds summit, 2594m Tuc de Beret, to ski its big south face, followed by a journey to a refuge in a remote valley.

Traversing the western side of the resort via a series of empty chairlifts and rolling, pristine piste, we head for Beret, the higher hub of the domain, to ride its most northerly lift to the Tuc deth Dossau at 2521m. That’s almost as high as it gets around here. The summits, or ‘tucs’, which dot the domain, are mostly around 2600m; modest in Alpine terms, but big in the Pyrenees, whose highest peak, Aneto, is 3404m. The key thing, resort-wise, is that Baqueira’s base altitude of 1500m gives you a clean 1000m vertical, and,

The Spanish have a nice balance of effort versus reward. This is confirmed as we peer into our descent: huge, and all for us

Below: plenty to savour by day on snow and at night in the old town of Vielha

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BACKCOUNTRY VAL D’ARAN, PYRENEES

A long upper-valley descent feels instantly remote, though mellow… we’ve definitively left the domain behind

combined with the breadth of the terrain, it feels big. We feel like we’re cheating to start with. A magical blue piste, the Colhet de Marimanha, follows an undulating ridge, with the help of a short drag lift. Where piste dives downhill from the Marimanha col we veer off and stick on skins to continue south up the Tuc de Beret, ignoring at least one interesting looking descent en route. We’re finally having to do some of the uphill work ourselves, though it’s minutes, not hours, to the tuc. My feeling so far is that the Spanish have a nice balance of effort versus reward.

This is confirmed as we peer into our descent: huge, and all for us. The general view is also impressive, with more peaks than skiers to be seen, even though it’s already late morning. Entry to the face is uncomplicated, but steep, and Roger delivers a little explanation on how best to tackle this kind of thing, dropping over the edge, poking about a bit and then deciding we’d be best off descending the shoulder

Epic views galore: skiing down to (inset), and skinning up from (main photo), Estany Pudo

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from the summit to hit the face a little way down. Not sure if it’s the condition of the snow or our skiing that is the determining factor.

Even from our lower, more gentle entry, it’s still a long way down – an uninterrupted bowl of sun-groomed, south-facing loveliness that can be taken in one massive pitch. Where the angle eases we hit bouldery, playful, well filled-in ground, heading towards sparse trees, for an exit route that’s as fun as the main event.

A quick break for lunch at Audeth in Beret – wild boar stew and ham croquettes – and it’s up the same lifts, but this time to head north, off the back to Montgarri.

A long upper-valley descent feels instantly remote, though mellow – we’ve definitively left the domain behind, with no hint of infrastructure in any direction. We hit trees as the valley drops more steeply, at which point we begin a climbing traverse through perfectly dotted trees across a beautiful hillside; it’s warm now in the Spanish sun and taken slowly even a downhill die-hard would get it.

What goes up must come down, though not necessarily as enjoyably. Rounding a lightly wooded shoulder we can sense as much as see an epic descent of forested mountainside, which looks from here like a very promising series of glades. But the problem is the snow: a couple of days ago it would have been eleven in epicness on a scale of one to 10. Now, thanks to a bit of freeze-thaw and who knows what, it’s in the minus numbers.

Much, much later, we limp west along the valley of the Noguera Palharesa river. We’re all alive, limbs intact and, in that type-two-fun kind of way, we’re enjoying ourselves.

The day’s real skiing is over – all that’s left is to slide a few

Martin Chester IFMGA GuIde

If you believe the best skiing starts where the groomers stop, get in touch. I provide advice, skills coaching, tailor-made groups and bespoke guided adventures from the Alps to the Arctic, to help take your skiing...

Above and beyond

www.martinchester.co.uk www.fall-line.co.uk 73

BACKCOUNTRY VAL D’ARAN, PYRENEES

metres into the hamlet of Montgarri with its Romanesque church, stone refuge – and some dog teams and sleds.

We’re a world away from the gloss of Baqueira, though in reality it lies just a few kilometres across the mountains from us, which leads to a final sting in the tale.

You could overnight here, but we’re planning something much more terrifying: Ski-Doo-tow along the mountain track back to Beret. It doesn’t sound too bad until you factor in the steepness of the terrain, which means the drivers have to gun it along the flatter bits to have a chance of making it up the hills. And the track is twisty. And – the really nutty bit – we’re towed not in a long line, but with a V of twin ropes coming off the back of each sled, meaning it’s not just hanging on that’s the issue, but not crashing sideways into your neighbour. That’s a complication we could really do without. As Lee from Snoworks says: “Just scream if you want to go faster!”

Scream if you want to go faster… just hope the skidoo tow from Montgarri doesn't involve hot dogging

This is natural ski terrain for pure fun... you could head in almost any direction to find more idyllic skiing ESSENTIALS TRAVEL The closest airport is Toulouse, France, two hours away.

Ski Inspired (skinspired.co.uk) arranges minibus transfers from £80 per person return.

STAY Baqueira is a big, modern ski station with a range of accommodation. But for a real Spanish experience, nearby Vielha, an authentic mountain town, is the place to be, with an old centre of cobbled riverside streets, tapas bars and quality restaurants. Contact local specialists Ski Inspired (skinspired.co.uk) for all your arrangements; Iori Hote (iorihotel.com) is highly recommended.

SKI Roger Martorell (rogermountainguide.com/en) guides by the day and also has regular group trips, both local to Val d’Aran and internationally. Prices from €155 per person per day, based on a group of five.

Snoworks (snoworks.co.uk) runs various trips, including a Baqueira backcountry course aimed at upper level skiers.

Prices for course only (five days’ coaching) from £535.

Packages cost from £1350 per person, based on twin-shared half-board accommodation, five-day backcountry course, and return group airport transfers from Toulouse.

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DAY TWO

It’s just two of us plus Roger today; he suggests starting from the south-east end of the resort near the Bonaigua pass to head straight out of domain for a short tour.

One chair, a drag and a short skin gets us over a ridge for a ski down to a lake called Estany Pudo. This country is different again from anything we skied yesterday – still in the midst of big mountains but with a distinctive, un-Alpine feel to it; this is natural ski terrain for pure fun.

It’s good on the way up too, with no vast unbroken expanses to make you feel you might never get there. In the clear light it’s easy to see that you could head in almost any direction to find more idyllic skiing, following the sun’s work as it softens the slopes by degrees. And it’s also clear, back on the ridge top, with line after line of peaks and ridges in every direction, that we’ll have to come back – and not just for a weekend.

PURE SKI TOURING

PHOTO Hansi Heckmair

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BACKCOUNTRY BETA with British mountain guide Martin Chester

STOP THE SLIDE Whoa there! Rocketing down a slope on your backside is less than ideal, so here’s how to stay on the up and up

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PHOTO ISTOCK

Take the fall out of the fall-line with Martin’s steadying influence 76 www.fall-line.co.uk

e’ve all watched on in horror (or hopefully in humour, if all ends well) as some poor skier has slid at rocket speed down the slope on their backside. But do this in the wrong place and even the most benign slide can have hefty consequences at the bottom, depending on where you end up, or how quickly you come to rest.

The reality is that there is a lot you can do to stop yourself sliding or, at the very least, seriously reduce the consequences. And like any set of skills, they require practice.

First things first, don’t dawdle! We accelerate pretty quick, so the sooner you can chop on and do something, the better. Many ski schools and steep ski clinics will teach the aikido roll: if you’re going, then embrace the tumble and go full roll to land back on your feet before you even begin to slide.

But on firm snow, or an icy piste, we may be whooshing downhill before we can get past the what of WTF?! Good news is that the basic principles are very simple…

Martin Chester is a British IFMGA guide and Fall-Line’s esteemed backcountry editor. To find out more about him and the awesome trips he organises, go to martinchester.co.uk Brakes on! Push away from the slope with your hands, aiming to get your hips high enough to enable your ski edges to contact the snow

THE BASIC PRINCIPLES 1) STOP THE SPIN

Flick flacks might look cool in the movies, and if you have a 1km Alaskan spine buried under the softest pow, by all means fill your jacket. But if you’re flipping down at rocks, ice or trees, it ain’t so funny. Make like a starfish with rigor mortis and get back in control. Throw your limbs out wide to stop the tumble. If you are still sliding, then it’s time to get your feet downhill and squeeze the brakes on.

2) GET YOUR HEAD UPHILL OF YOUR FEET

Throw your hands and arms up the slope.

Sure, you can try to get a grip with your fingers or drag a pole if you still have one.

The ideal is a combination of the two: throw and grip. Let’s pause to chat poles and leashes. I rarely, if ever, wear ski pole leashes. Truth is, with leashes on you will keep your poles on your wrists, but likely get tangled up with them buried beneath you. It’s pretty tricky to use them however you wish. Sure, without your leashes, there is a risk of losing the poles, but you also maintain the choice to jettison or not when things get messy. You also get the choice to grab the pole however you like – slide your hands to one end or another, and get a grip of the slope with spike or handle.

Reality is, pole or not, if you throw your arms uphill with enough determination and vigour (urgency) it’s like a diver throwing a tumble. Wherever you throw your head and shoulders, the rest of your body will follow.

Now is the time to capitalise on the slide to aid the spin. Keep those feet – boots or skis – up and off the slope. If they drag, they’ll just stay uphill and leave you hurtling

head first. Fight like mad to keep your head up the slope because, whatever happens next, it’s better to hit any obstacles with your feet, and absorb with your legs, than hit with your head and absorb with your spine.

slowly force the toes of your boots to grip more and more as you come to rest. By this stage it’ll look more ‘cat on a hot tin roof’ than downward dog – but who cares how it looks if it works.

3) COMING TO A STOP

STAY COVERED… AND PRACTICE

Now your feet are downhill we need to squeeze the brakes on. I say squeeze because doing anything too sudden risks another cartwheel and going back to stage one – repeatedly. Like an emergency stop in the car you need to balance braking with traction. Take it slow(ish) but determined.

At best, we want to stop completely but, at worst, this is going to slow things down and reduce any impact.

How best to brake depends on how you have ended up. If you still have your skis on it’s crazy tricky trying to get the edges to grip. Go and try it for practice. Your only real chance is to push away from the slope with your hands. You need to get your hips high enough to enable your ski edges to contact the snow.

Ironically, things are easier without skis.

In your ski boots, try and flip over onto your front (it’s easier than it sounds if you do it with gusto) and get into a press-up position. With feet shoulder width apart, slowly push up into a plank, and keep pressing your hips up towards a downward dog. You won’t get that far, but the steady pressure will roll you up on your toes and

It is worth noting that all that dragging of your palms or fingertips in spring snow, or especially icy terrain, will take its toll.

Anyone who has been there will know that an icy piste has the sharp granular texture of tarmac. Never again will you want to ski, nor let any of your loved ones ski, in short sleeves or without gloves. If you don’t get it then you are the lucky ones: heed this advice, stay covered up, and we can spare you the pain!

Finally, knowledge is the first step to success – the rest only comes with practice.

Go and find a suitably steep and slippery slope with a friendly and benign runout. The idea is a bowl of firm or spring snow, rising steeply at the top, but flattening out at the bottom before too long. That way you can throw a few laps, starting with the braking process – feet first on your front, then a simple slide on your bum before you flip. Then throw a few different shapes: headfirst on your front; headfirst on your back; skis on and skis off in any combination.

It won’t take you long. It will make you giggle like a kid. And, one day, it might just save your bacon. Good luck…

Make like a starfish with rigor mortis and get back in control. Throw your limbs out wide

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BACKCOUNTRY GURU

Martin Chester profiles his out-and-out heroes in the wonderful world of mountain guiding

THIS MONTH: JOHN FALKINER

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e are sitting on the hut balcony, supping a beer after a day on the Weissmies, and watching the alpenglow kiss the peaks of Monte Rosa.

John casually drops the time he skied the Marinelli couloir into conversation.

Cue a sharp intake of breath, as the Marinelli is a contender for the longest couloir in the Alps on one of the biggest faces of them all: the Macugnaga, or east face of the Monte Rosa. It is the tick of all ticks in my ski dreams. Then John casually mentions that it was the first telemark descent – and I nearly spit my beer.

It’s hard to comprehend how the son of a merino sheep farmer, who grew up in the Old Man Plain of Australia, ended up one of the most esteemed skiing legends, an IFMGA mountain guide and stuntman.

John gets his sense of adventure from his dad. In 1937, while at school in England, he went skiing in the Austrian Tyrol, perhaps tempted by the fact that ‘she-ing’ (as he heard it called) was a euphemism for hunting girls! He finished school in Australia, before returning to Biggin Hill as a spitfire pilot. Eventually, once back in Australia, skiing was beginning to take off. “Dad longed to have another go and became a regular, climbing up to the huts and lodges that were being built. When I was about five, he took me along… and thus created a monster.”

So it was no surprise when John moved to Verbier to work a season; 47 years later, he’s still there! While his dad was wondering when John would get a ‘proper job’, he worked his way from pot washer to freestyle competitor, to ski instructor/examiner/coach, to stuntman and finally to IFMGA guide. His dad finally realised he was serious when, some 10 years after arriving, John appeared on the big screen as a Russian skier in the Bond film A View to a Kill…

John’s had a hand in almost every ski clip you may have seen on the big screen The pinnacle moment in John’s remarkable career was when, in the late ’70s, he rented a chalet in an area above Verbier, called Clambin, with fellow Verbier locals and adventure photographers Ace Kvale and Marko Shapiro. This was an amazing trio with incredible synergy and, before long, ‘Team Clambin’ was attracting many of the big names in skiing to stay with them.

As a consequence, John, Ace, Mark and their guests pushed the frontiers. Ski brands gave them kit for their pictures, and the resort gave them passes for the great skiers they attracted, all in a virtuous circle of mutual benefit. Verbier was firmly put on the serious ski map.

PHOTOS KONRAD. BARTELSKI

BIG LINES TO BIG SCREENS

While the team may have looked like the original ski bums from the outside, they grafted hard to get what they wanted. And more than anything, they wanted to ski. John started carrying tripods on film shoots in the ’70s and has now clocked up over 80 film projects, on both sides of the lens. He has starred in all manner of films, from niche Italian telemarking documentaries to The Blizzard of Aahhh’s, Vitamin Ski, three Bond movies and Bridget Jones.

John appears to have had a hand in the venue selection, action filming, team safety and co-ordination of almost every ski clip you may have seen on the big screen.

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So what happened next? The Clambin dream lasted over 15 years and John, Ace and Marko are still the very best of friends and ski buddies. But as Verbier became well known, there were soon “too many flies in the box”.

I know John well enough to know there is nothing derogatory to others in this phrase; it is simply a lovely metaphor that conjures up just the right image. Fat skis changed everything, and enabled many more people to access their precious secrets. Too many flies invade your head, and your karma, as much as your mountains, and Team Clambin found themselves in competition with more careless masses. As John puts it, he likes to base his decisions on the mountains, not other people, preferring to “make his own mistakes”.

So John went exploring, to find places other people didn’t ski (yet). It’s an enviable list of exotic locations, including Iran, Lebanon and Russia.

In 1989, his team were skiing in the big terrain of Gulmarg when theirs were the only (not just the first) tracks. John has been on a mission ever since: “Finding destinations in the mountains where there is still room to move and learn, from the people and the cultures.” He has skied from the 6190m summit of Denali on alpine skis, and (with a high point of 8300m without oxygen) telemarked from around 7000m on Everest.

Suddenly, the Marinelli couloir doesn’t seem that outrageous…

A DIFFERENT MINDSET

It was on his way home from the Caucasus, after spending five days storm-bound in a snow cave on Elbrus (5642m, the highest point in Europe), that John decided to capitalise on his acclimatisation. The north face of Mont Blanc was in mint condition, as were the team. So Monte

From Russian Bond villain to IFMGA guide…

When he’s not deep in pow, John can be found playing Verbier’s bars

Rosa was the obvious next adventure. They went old-school, skinning up to the Monte Rosa hut from Zermatt. With perfect conditions and enviable fitness, they decided to climb through the night, leaving the winter room at 10pm and skinning up the mighty Grenz glacier by moonlight. Reaching the Margherita hut (4556m) at 5am, they brewed up and rested up as best they could.

However good the conditions, you are never going to get perfect snow for all 2500m of vertical on a face like this. Dropping in it was so firm John had his heart in his mouth for the first few hundred metres.

While the average gradient is quoted between 45-50°, some sections are steeper. This is also before the era of fat skis so, with the edge of his bindings touching the slope, it was more paramark (parallel telemark) than telemark. John recalls the levels of adrenaline – and the view down into the Macugnaga cemetery. Thankfully, once through the crux section, the snow softened to perfect corn for the remaining 2000m.

John had made the first telemark descent of this monster couloir.

However wild John may have been with his friends, becoming an IFMGA guide marked a shift in his mindset. He was relatively late to get his badge and, having been in my early 30s, I flinched at the idea of doing my guides test at 49. But then, with so much more to offer and so much less to prove, it is not such a bad idea. Guiding is a super-rewarding team event and, as a team, you are only as strong as your weakest link.

John has mellowed to embrace these rewards, and likes his skiing “extremely interesting” rather than extreme these days.

Everyone should ski with John at least once in their lives. Or go and listen to John’s band, The Lost Guides, play their tunes in Verbier. I knew that talking to John about his life history would take me into the heart of ski history; but I accidentally found its very soul in the process. ❄ johnfalkiner.com, teamclambin.com www.fall-line.co.uk 79

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STAY INSPIRED Gear for the good times COMING UP… Rig for the Gig: Sam Anthamatten’s big mountain kit

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Behind the Brands: Elan in the spotlight

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Four of the Best: recovery and rehab devices

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PHOTO LINE SKIS

Tried and Tested: handmade skis, GPS watches and more

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NEVER COMPROMISE IN ASSOCIATION WITH

with Phil Gordon

No one knows what’s coming up in the world of ski equipment better than Snow+Rock’s ski hardware buyer, Phil Gordon, who can often be found testing the latest high-tech breakthroughs and revolutionary designs on his own pilgrimages to the mountains.

AN EXPERT’S GUIDE TO…

YOUR ANNUAL SNOWSPORTS GEAR HEALTH CHECK

Y

our gear is your pride and joy, and making regular kit health checks a priority is the best way to prolong its life, keeping performance at its best and doing your bit for the planet, too.

Here’s a breakdown of everything you need to do – you can thank us later.

BOOTS

We all know that once you take the plunge and get your own ski boots, there’s no going back. Well, the same can be said even for trading your old boots in for a shiny new pair – so keeping your beloved new boots in prime condition for as long as possible should be top of your to-do list. We recommend bringing them to our boot fitting labs for a check-up before you make your escape to the mountains, especially if you haven’t been skiing in a while.

Our in-store experts will first perform a few checks to evaluate the fit of your boots.

Your feet can expand over time, and with wear you compress your boot linings – both of which can result in a poor fit, bad transmission and instability. We can adjust your boot shell or the liners to get them back to fitting like a glove, or even craft brand new custom insoles for that perfect fit and uncompromising support. Ready to

make even more upgrades? We can also switch your soles to ‘GripWalk’ technology to make getting around the resort a breeze. Trust us, you’ll wonder what you ever did without it.

Next is to make sure your boots still fit perfectly with your bindings. We’ll check the toes and heels of your boots, which are most susceptible to wearing away, to make sure they’ll still work safely with your setup, and replace those parts if needed.

We can also check the DIN to make sure they still release properly – this is especially important if your weight has changed since you bought them.

SKI SERVICING

That perfect shred relies on your skis delivering on a delicate balance of factors – and getting them in for regular servicing preserves that balance for optimum underfoot performance. Our ski services involve tuning and sharpening the edges, grinding the base for a smooth ride and fixing any holes to restore your skis back to their former glory. The base of your skis is like skin, in that it needs oils to prevent it drying out, so we’ll also apply all the nourishment it needs to regulate water and maintain that sweet, smooth slide.

HELMETS

As a rule, your helmet should be replaced when it’s either five years old or you’ve had it for three years – whichever comes first.

The reason is that helmets are affected by the materials expanding and contracting in different temperatures, and being knocked about during travel, so it’s difficult to know how damaged your helmet is. Helmets don’t have to be expensive, but you should always consider getting the best possible one within your budget.

SOCKS

You need to have at least one back-up pair with you at all times. We also recommend replacing all your ski socks regularly to help keep your boots clean and odour-free.

GOGGLES

Your lenses have a hydrophobic coating to stop fogging, but this can be compromised by some cleaning products, so we recommend replacing them regularly. * See what services are available in your local store at snowandrock.com/stores * After more expert tips and inspiration?

Find it all at snowandrock.com/ adviceandinspiration

GET THE GEAR

Oakley MOD 5 MIPS Snow Helmet, £190 82 www.fall-line.co.uk

Falke Men’s SK1 Ski Socks, £26

Falke Women’s SK4 Ski Socks, £30

Oakley Flight Deck XM Goggles, £185

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❄ COURCHEVEL ON A BUDGET ❄ JOHN FALKINER: VERBIER’S FREERIDE SOUL ❄ DOLOMITE TRIPPING ❄ MARTIN CHESTER ON HOW TO STOP SLIPS AND SLIDES ❄ A LOCAL’S GUIDE TO ALTA, UTAH ❄ EASY-ACCESS NORWAY: MIDNIGHT SUN FUN ❄ MEET THE ARTIST WHO PAINTS PISTE MAPS

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SEE YOU THIS AUTUMN! A big THANK YOU to all our readers and subscribers for joining us during this rollercoaster of a winter – we wouldn’t be here without you.

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RIG GIG FOR THE

BIG MOUNTAIN TOURING ESSENTIALS This month: pro freeskier and mountain guide Sam Anthamatten gives us the lowdown on his high mountain ski and mountaineering equipment SAM ANTHAMATTEN

Swiss born and raised, Sam has spent his life on the high peaks of his home town, Zermatt. He is a highly experienced UIAGM/ IFMGA mountain guide, mountaineer, and a man for all adrenaline-fuelled sports, be that biking, climbing, paragliding or freeride skiing.

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o stranger to descents on 6000m peaks in exotic locations, Sam is methodical about his gear. In spring 2020, far-off locations were out of the question due to the pandemic, so Sam decided instead to explore the mountains closer to his home in the Swiss Alps. His expedition is chronicled in Faction Skis’ film Zermatt to Verbier, which features both footpowered freeride lines and a historical look at the Patrouille des Glaciers – the Swiss Army ski touring race that made this route famous.

In this edition of Rig for the Gig, Sam talks us through the essential kit to take for a freeride-focused glacier tour…

“I’m a small guy (168cm tall) and I ride both the Dictator 3.0 and Agent 3.0 in the 188cm length,” says Sam. “Both skis are 106mm underfoot and lightweight, but the Dictator 3.0 has the extra power that allows me to charge fast through no fall zones and absorb big landings, whereas the Agent 3.0 saves me additional weight while still standing up to big freeride lines.”

ALL GEARED UP FOR A FREERIDE FRENZY

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Rig for the biggest of big freeride lines…

I’ve been using Faction’s Dictator 3.0 for a big project I’m working on with Jérémie Heitz – La Liste II. We’ve been skiing 6000m peaks in Peru and Pakistan and I like how stable it is

1. Skis: Faction Agent 3.0 £649 factionskis.com

This is the ski I took for the Zermatt to Verbier trip along Patrouille des Glaciers route. It’s also the ski I use when working as a guide; it’s perfect for climbing a lot of vertical. It has a lightweight karuba wood core and a full carbon weave, plus 1% of the sales are used to support sustainability organisations through 1% For The Planet.

2. Skis: Faction Dictator 3.0 £629 factionskis.com I’ve been using this for a big project I’m working on with Jérémie Heitz – La Liste II. We’ve been skiing 6000m peaks in Peru and Pakistan and I like how stable it is. ‘Stay Metal’ is the logo, and I really feel that in the way it handles. The poplar core and dual span of titanal give it torsional strength that’s livelier than most metal skis. There is an elliptical sidecut, so the radius is longer underfoot and shorter at the front and rear.

3. Bindings: Cast Freetour Upgrade Kit £269 casttouring.com This system allows me to have a pin set up for going uphill and a regular alpine binding for the descent. Designed by guys I used to compete with on the Freeride World Tour – Lars and Silas Chickering-Ayers – this patented conversion system is designed to turn your Look Pivot 15 or 18 alpine bindings into a super-light pin-tech

touring system. Once you’ve mounted the Freetour Upgrade Kit you simply swap the toes by pushing a small lever and sliding them off. It’s easy to switch between the two, and gives you the best set up for going uphill and skiing back down. On the Dictator 3.0 I have them mounted 1cm in front of the recommended line and on the Agent 3.0 I go 2.5cm in front.

4. Boots: Lange XT Free 130 £550 lange-boots.com

7. Harness: Mammut Zephir Altitude £80 mammut.com This is functional and safe but super lightweight.

There are four harness sizes, which have minimal adjustability, so it’s important to choose the right size and not get too fat throughout the season!

You can also put it on without taking your skis off.

8. Hardwear: Petzl Laser Speed Ice Screw and Multihook £52 and £29 petzl.com

With around 43° ROM in walk mode these four-buckle free touring boots are great for going uphill, and with a solid 130 flex, they’re punchy and precise on the downhill too. Firm and powerful, they also come with GripWalk soles.

With just one ice screw and the abalakov hook I can actually get down almost every mountain.

All I need is a rope and then I can rappel off.

5. Helmet: Julbo Peak £155

This ultra-light pulley weighs 85g and is a vital piece of kit if you need to carry out a crevasse rescue, self-rescue, haul gear or need an emergency ascender. Easy to use and efficient.

julbo.com

This is light and comes with dual certification for skiing and mountaineering. It weighs just 360g (without ear pads) and has active venting, Fidlock buckles, adjustable fit and a headlamp retainer.

6. Crampons: Petzl Irvis £96 petzl.com

Packable and lightweight (for steel), but able to take on serious rock + ice climbing when needed, these are another example of me choosing reliability and performance over the lightest weight materials on the market.

9. Hardwear: Petzl Micro Traxion £60 petzl.com

10. Safety kit: Mammut First Aid Kit Pro £40 mammut.com In addition to my Mammut Barryvox S transceiver, shovel and probe, I always carry a first aid kit with me on the mountain. This always holds clean bandages, painkillers (really strong ones!), gauze, tape and, if I have space, I’ll take a SAM splint, which is great to stabilise bone breaks and sprained arms and legs. www.fall-line.co.uk 85

BEHIND THE BRAND...

ELAN Sophie Nicholson talks to Melanja Korosec, Global Brand Director at Elan Skis…

Sophie Nicholson: Last winter saw Elan celebrate 75 years of ski-making. Can you give us a bit of background into the brand’s origins?

Melanja Korosec: As the world adapts to change, we remain steady with the vision we’ve had since 1945 – to build the best skis for friends and family to enjoy the skiing lifestyle and create lasting memories.

Our headquarters are in Begunje, Slovenia, between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. From working with the best of this generation’s athletes to supporting junior and new skiers around the globe, we are dedicated to enabling skiers to have their best day on snow.

SN: As Global Brand Director, you are one of the most powerful women in the ski industry. Tell us a bit about your career so far…

MK: I grew up a stone’s throw away from the Alpine Skiing World Cup slope of Maribor in Slovenia. I was

86 www.fall-line.co.uk

inspired at the age of three to start skiing; ski racing at six. Later, Elan recognised me as an athlete and made me an ambassador for them. The whole time I was aware of the importance of education, pursuing a business degree. I finished business school and later did an MBA and master degree.

A decade ago, Elan invited me to work on product development.

Starting as a junior brand manager for the women’s program, I went on to be product director for the winter division. When the opportunity came to take more responsibilities beyond the ‘female’ role, I was probably the first in the industry to be trusted with the development of a complete winter ski portfolio.

Today I run the global brand, design and product development team, with the responsibility for the overall strategy and design process, directing Elan’s innovation roadmap and product marketing initiatives.

Over the years I’ve learned it’s the team who achieves the goal, not an

Melanja’s biggest achievement?

Helping to produce Elan’s new Voyager

Since the 1940s, Elan has strived to enable skiers of all abilities to enjoy their day on the mountain

We remain steady with the vision we’ve had since 1945 – to build the best skis for friends and family to enjoy the skiing lifestyle

individual. The growth, innovation, product awards… all these are a result of dedication and passionate team work, and I’m grateful for my amazing co-workers.

SN: Elan has established a reputation for innovation, pioneering many industry firsts.

Is there one particular ‘first’ that stands out?

MK: Everything started with the victories of Ingemar Stemark (pictured left), and Elan introduced so-called carving skis – skis with extreme sidecut – 25 years ago.

Today, we’re introducing the Elan Voyager, which is redefining the complete skiing experience, not just how we ski; it extends to the journey from home to the resort and back.

The design team spent several years

fine-tuning the Voyager to ensure it delivers the level of excellence Elan is renowned for. The result is a ski that is bringing the mountains closer to many skiers who can’t wait to escape.

This ski allows you to carve up groomers, float through powder, attack moguls… but after skiing it simply slots into the back of your car.

It’s proof of Elan’s dedication to innovation, design and commitment to delivering good times to skiers around the globe. It’s the project I’m most proud of.

SN: Tell us more about Elan’s age-old philosophy to ‘build skis for friends, families and good times’…

MK: The pursuit of excitement is a universal theme. The skiers looking for a good time aren’t looking for only www.fall-line.co.uk 87

The Ripstick was designed to go everywhere without any compromise… It is the ski companion you want this winter

PHOTOS ANDREAS VIGL

the best conditions or most risky terrain, they are about skiing and enjoying the experience together with friends and family.

Elan’s range represents the brand’s mission for elevating the skiing experience for everyone, with a balanced offering of new technology.

On one hand boosting confidence in skiers who are progressing, while its expert level products are developed for those looking to take their skiing to the next level.

Above all, nothing in our line is exclusive, overwhelming, overpriced or unapproachable.

SN: Tell us more about how the relationship with Glen Plake came about: MK: Glen is a living legend. His skiing is an uncanny mix of adrenalin, art, creativity and imagination; we are inspired by his adventures.

Glen is known everywhere and is living proof that skiing is a synonym for unlimited imagination and a deep personal philosophy. He and his wife Kimberly are skiing vagabonds, living on the road and holidaying at their 88 www.fall-line.co.uk

home in Nevada or their apartment in Chamonix.

Since Elan has been his go-to brand for the past decade, Glen often drops by the factory in Slovenia. He’s been involved with the development of Elan’s product range, including Ripstick skis.

Additionally, Glen is an amazing athlete and a truly inspiring leader who is all about authenticity. His tenacity for adventure and good times aligns with Elan on so many levels, and we’re excited to have him on the team.

SN: The multi award-winning Ripstick series has been an enormous success. What is it about these skis that makes them so darn good?

MK: The Ripstick was designed to go everywhere without any compromise.

After years of testing and development, the end product perfectly blends the desired dynamics of a lightweight construction with a smooth ride and powerful rebound to create a high-performance ski with uncompromised versatility.

The skis were tested and challenged

by Elan ambassadors, ski guides and daily skiers all around the globe.

We required a product that would be strong, stable, versatile, fun, playful and light. The goal was to develop a product that will make you a better skier. The Ripstick is the ski companion you want this winter – plus, it’s Glen’s ski of choice!

Elan’s mighty Ripstick is a winner on and off the hill

SN: Talking of ground-breaking skis, tell us more about the new Voyager: MK: It’s not just skiing that has evolved; the way we live our lives has evolved too, and a ski day is not just about the turns we make, but everything around it. How we leave our homes, how we travel to the resort, how we start the skiing day and how we return home. For the first time in a long time we’re changing our perspective – from skiing down the slopes to creating an amazing skiing day. This has led to a product concept beyond any ski in existence: the Voyager.

The Voyager is convenient to transport, be it by car, train or plane.

It simply and quickly packs into its custom bag (as it folds to under one metre in length), but despite being so space-efficient, it will happily tackle anything a demanding skier can imagine – all without compromising an ounce of performance.

Functionality, intuition and long-term quality are the three main design drivers: Voyager is the world’s first folding, all-mountain ski.

SN: We’re all living through an extremely difficult time.

Can you tell us a bit more about how Elan have reacted and adapted to the challenges of a pandemic?

MK: The situation is extremely fluid and unpredictable, and the challenges we were – and still are – facing are completely unknown. Over the past year we’ve implemented a number of measures, including setting up an operations task force to tackle issues such as how to assure safer production layout and social distancing of employees.

To end on a positive note, skiing is inspirational, and inspiration will play a vital role in post-Covid times.

Outdoor activities will play an important role in people’s lives, and demand for certain sports products will increase. Also, online sales will

continue to grow with higher pace. For both of these opportunities we are creating scenarios, working on new strategies and designing new experiences.

The Voyager folds to less than a metre, but packs a hefty punch out on the slopes www.fall-line.co.uk 89

TRIED & TESTED

FOUR OF THE BEST...

Gear editor and sports massage therapist Sophie Nicholson puts

BLACKROLL RECOVERY PILLOW €90 shop.blackroll.com SPEC: 50 x 30cm breathable high tech memory foam pillow. Ergonomic shape with four sleeping positions; travel-friendly; made in Germany.

VERDICT: Measuring just 50 x 30cm, this low profile pillow may

This doubles as the perfect travel pillow for anyone looking to maximise the quality of their zzz’s

look less than impressive but holy heck, it does a remarkable job of helping you sleep like a baby. Plus it’s small and rolls up easily to fit in a bag so you can take it with you on your ski trip.

Made from breathable high tech memory foam, it’s soft yet supportive and comes with four recommended sleeping positions for all types of sleepers (stomach sleepers, back sleepers, side sleepers with narrow shoulders and side sleepers with broad shoulders) – all designed to relieve shoulder and neck tension.

Having smashed up my left shoulder good and proper in my previous life as a snowboarder, I often suffer sporadic discomfort in my left shoulder and neck, particularly in the winter months or whenever I’m sat at my desk for too long (hello Gear Guide). I can honestly say that since I’ve started using the Blackroll Recovery Pillow, this tension and pain has all but totally disappeared. I use it in Position 3 – the side sleeper with narrow shoulders position – which keeps my head in line with my shoulders, thereby keeping my neck and head aligned when sleeping and relieving any associated pressure.

BEST FOR: Those who suffer from sleep disorders or neck and shoulder tension.

Take control of your feet-related issues

BLACKBOARD TRAINING SYSTEM €106 blackboard-training.com SPEC: BlackBoard Foot Training System with two bars (long and short).

Printed manual and a 45-minute video workshop.

VERDICT: A healthy foot is extremely important for a healthy body.

The problem is that the foot is also super complicated. Having struggled with a persistent foot/ankle injury that’s refused to respond to countless hours of physio, wobble board exercises and even a spell under the knife, I was stoked to come across the BlackBoard System earlier this year. Developed by physio Lars Grandjot and sports scientist Gregor Stumpf, the ISPO award-winning BlackBoard offers a new treatment method designed specifically to activate, mobilise and train the entire foot. Constructed using two connected wooden platforms that move independently, it enables users to isolate the specific movements of the forefoot and rear foot by placing the wooden bars underneath the BlackBoard in particular positions.

Having read the manual and watched the video, I started using it and could feel a difference within minutes. All the hurrahs!

The video explained how my foot ‘should’ feel and move, offering anatomical education and awareness to hone in on my areas of weakness. Since I started using it I’ve noticed a difference when skinning and skiing, and am now able to do back to back 1,200m+ days in the backcountry with zero adverse effects.

If you suffer from flat feet, high arches, plantar fasciitis, Achilles tendon problems, poor balance, stiff ankles or any other ankle/foot related problem or injury, I highly recommend this. It will help you get back on track, better than ever.

BEST FOR: Anyone looking to regain functional, pain-free feet.

90 www.fall-line.co.uk

RECOVERY DEVICES some of the latest rehab and pain management systems to the test NUROKOR MITOUCH COMPLETE BODYSYSTEM £399 nurokor.co.uk SPEC: Bioelectrical massage device with five apps (pain, pain+, performance, recovery and microcurrent/MC-2).

Two electrode treatment wires and four pairs of EcoLife series application pads. USB charging cable; quick start guide; two-year warranty and a 30-day money back guarantee.

VERDICT: If you’re fed up of popping pills

to manage your pain, this portable bioelectrical massage device is a very impressive alternative one-stop therapy shop for a wide range of soft tissue problems. I’ve used it for a whole host of issues, including rehabbing a tender Achilles, and general aches and pains.

There are five easy-to-use apps to target different problem areas.

It’s worth watching the How to use NuroKor MiTouch video on YouTube to familiarise yourself with each setting as it does a great job of explaining the tech. What makes the NuroKor different from other comparable devices is the MC-2 mode that uses quadwave microcurrent to stimulate the nervous system and speed up the body’s healing process by increasing production of the wonder molecule Adenosine Triphosphate – aka ATP. No matter which mode I’m using I always finish any treatment with half an hour on MC-2.

One final thing: wipe the pads with a damp cloth after use to keep them clean, and if they won’t stick pop ’em in the fridge for two hours.

BEST FOR: Active folks looking for a travel-friendly device.

A healthy alternative to pain management

THERAGUN PRO £549 theragun.com SPEC: Professional grade percussive therapy device with customisable speed range; QX150 motor with QuietForce Technology; 300-minute battery life; rotating arm and ergonomic multi-grip. Smart App integration via Bluetooth.

Pricey but oh-so effective

VERDICT: This is all the rage on social media where you’ll find countless videos of pro athletes giving their ripped muscles a solid dose of Theragun love. There’s no doubting the success of the brand’s marketing campaign, and it turns out the device itself is equally impressive. Designed to speed up the recovery process by deeply penetrating muscles to release knots and tension, it generates percussive force using a scientifically-calibrated combination of 16mm of amplitude and an unlimited speed range. Whether you’re using it to warm your muscles up ahead of exercise, speed up recovery time post-workout or simply for pain relief, the results are both immediate and impressive.

As a super active household we have a host of recovery devices, and the Theragun definitely gets the most use. I tend to use it mostly to help relieve aching limbs after consecutive days on the hill, while my partner Duncan uses it on a daily basis to help him stay on top of his lower back pain. Other users have reported improvements in sleep quality. It comes with a choice of head attachments to target different areas of the body, is super easy to use, and the ergonomic, adjustable arm allows you to reach awkward places like your upper back without having to call on someone else for help. The downside is of course the eye-streaming cost. But if you’re a devoted athlete living an active lifestyle, it’s a justifiable investment with guaranteed returns.

BEST FOR: Committed mountain athletes prepared to invest. www.fall-line.co.uk 91

TRIED & TESTED THE TESTERS Nicola Iseard Editor Style: Steeps, speed and spread eagles Dream line: Kil the Banker, Revelstoke Sophie Nicholson Gear/online editor Style: Turn earner.

Doesn’t do well indoors Dream line: The Armancette Glacier Martin Chester Backcountry editor Style: Wilderness seeker Dream line: From the summit of Monte Rosa Dickie Fincher Publisher Style: Hippy Dream line: Cat-accessed trees in Powder Mountain, Utah Amy Marwick Contributing Editor Style: Rips all terrain with utmost ease Dream line: Mont Blanc Lee Hardy Tester Style: Race and retail pedigree Dream line: Deep in the Chugach mountains Chrigl Luthy Tester Style: Terrain tickler.

Generally airborne Dream line: Tree skiing.

Anywhere Duncan McCallum Tester Style: Bearded split personality Dream line: Happo One to base GOT SOMETHING YOU WANT TESTING? We're always looking to put new gear through its paces, and we try to cover as much as possible throughout the season. Drop us a line if there's anything in particular that you'd like our team to take for a spin on the hil - sophie@fall-line.co.uk 92 www.fall-line.co.uk

BLACK DIAMOND DAWN PATROL HYBRID PANTS TESTED BY MARTIN Any regular readers will know I have been on the quest for the perfect pants for a while now.

The ‘one pair does it all’ that fit like your favourite jeans, yet function from hut to summit.

So far this has led me down the ‘soft-shell plus lightweight overtrousers in the pack’ combo.

But this is the first pair of pants to (literally) stop me in those tracks. Feels like soft shell; looks like soft shell – but when I took them out in a proper Welsh soaking, they behaved like proper shell pants, but without overheating. All thanks to the BD Dry + softshell combo. Stretchy too!

Several burly outings later, and the DWR is still beading like a beauty. I am building faith in these as a serious poor-weather pant, as well as a comfy skinning outfit.

They are also well featured: two harness compatible thigh pockets (one has a neoprene transceiver pouch and attachment point); a small

hand pocket; zipped thigh vents and a Recco reflector. The boot cuff is great, with reinforced instep patches and a cunning dual closure. They promote this for both racing and touring boots, but I like it to keep my flares from snagging my Crocs in the hut lounge! In the recent lockdown madness, it has helped to keep the cuff out of my bike chain on the ‘exercise from home’ outings, too!

In use, the cuff is just big enough to get over a loose skinning boot, but with no Velcro to let you down it’s a bomber seal.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £270

VERDICT: They rock when it’s hot, and when it gets cold and wild out there I combine ’em with my trusty zip-on/off insulated shorts combo – winner! blackdiamondequipment.com

Wherever Your Passions & Dreams Take You...

ARC’TERYX RUSH JACKET TESTED BY DUNCAN If you don’t mind going out when it’s blowing a hoolie and there’s a risk of getting slapped in the face with a flappy, sticky skin every so often, then you need to match your kit with your ambitions and the conditions.

Too light a jacket and it holes up the first time you catch a ski edge and clings to you in the wind like a needy child. Too heavy and bulky and you’ll be constantly fighting to pack it away the moment the wind drops and the temps climb a little.

The Rush Jacket is the ideal middle ground – a minimalist yet rugged Gore-Tex Pro shell that’s light enough to take to Tromsø in the spring, and tough enough that it won’t rip or tear should it snag on granite or on a branch on a dream tree-ski descent.

Yes it’s expensive and you would be forgiven for wondering why something so stripped back could possibly merit such a substantial investment. But what you are getting and paying for is refined simplicity, cut in a shape that really works for its intended use.

The Rush is the result of years of evolution at Arc’teryx HQ – many gazillions of hours and minutes have been spent by boffins with aeons of expertise and experience refinining it down to its bare essentials. Trust us: the absence of ‘go gadget’ features, diamanté inserts and over-engineered construction is where its real value truly lies.

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We’ve Got The Equipment & Expertise To Get You There!

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Bringing you the UK’s largest range of specialist skis & boots and advice and expertise since 1965.

We’ll always be here to help and advise you on the correct equipment for wherever your passions and dreams take you.

Full worldwide mail order service Click & Collect facility available Call or email for help and advice Custom Ski Boot Fitting Specialists Members of the Sidas Boot Fitting Academy Ski Industries Of Great Britain Official Ski Testers Winner Ski Club GB - Best UK Store Sports Equipment Provider Winner Ski Club GB - Best UK Store Sports Clothing Provider *LOTS OF WARM CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES STILL AVAILABLE* MID-SEASON SALE NOW ON! UP TO 30% OFF THIS SEASONS GEAR! AND UP TO 70% OFF ON PREVIOUS YEARS MODELS!!

TOURING | TELEMARK FREERIDE | FREESTYLE | RACE | RECREATIONAL

LOW-DOWN RRP: £600

VERDICT: No fluff, no bluster – a truly excellent durable, windproof, Gore-Tex shell with refined and effective simplicity. arcteryx.com

Uxbridge Road, Hillingdon, West London, UB10 0NP 020 8848 0040 www.SkiBartlett.com MAIL ORDER | CLICK & COLLECT

TRIED & TESTED

BLACK DIAMOND SPARK GLOVES TESTED BY MARTIN For deep winter skiing and for hauling ropes, whacking axes, shovelling snow and poling hard I like a burly work glove. This pair hits the spot – like a pimped up version of those amazing Chamonix-bin-men-gloves we all adore. Great quality goat leather means they are supple yet dextrous and great for gripping ropes and tools. The super-soft fleece liner is a joy to slip into (even when hands are damp) combined with PrimaLoft Gold insulation to keep you toasty. The fingers are spacious enough for my chubby digits, yet really well designed: no annoying thumb flap to snag in karabiners.

Any of you who dabble on the dark side and climb ice will appreciate the extra padding on the back of the hand; and all of you will use the suede goggle swipe to keep those lenses free of snow.

The pièce de résistance is the cuff closure. Hurrah – someone has actually designed a glove to be sleek at the wrist. Hence, they are an ‘inny’. That is, they fit effortlessly under any shell cuff to seal out the harshest weather.

With a great neoprene and ‘plenty of Velcro’ combo they will reliably close and won’t ice up. Slap on a bit of Nikwax to get them super-grippy and you are good to go.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £70

VERDICT: Come tooled up for duty with these on your fists! blackdiamondequipment.com/en

DRAGON NFX2 CHRIS BENCHETLER SIGNATURE GOGGLES TESTED BY SOPHIE These stealthy looking frameless goggles combine Dragon’s top eyewear tech with big time style courtesy of backcountry charger and artist Chris Benchetler.

The NFX2 is one of Dragon’s most popular goggles due to its clean and simple design and versatile medium fit. The cylindrical lens may not offer the max visuals of its spherical or toric brethren but the major bonus is the low profile fit and feel – perfect for anyone wanting to avoid that bug-eye look.

I’ve used these goggles on my backcountry touring adventures in Scotland this winter and been super impressed so far. The compact design means they fit easily into the goggle-specific pocket in my pack when skinning so there’s no squeezing or bulging which often results in lens scratches or worse.

When it comes to the descent, they’re super comfy to wear and the 200% Super anti-fog coating combined with armoured venting keep things mist-free on all but the most humid of days.

Lens-wise there’s two top quality options to choose from here, both of which feature Dragon’s infamous Lumalens tech designed for max contrast, clarity and enhanced visuals. The main lens – the uber-cool looking Dark Smoke – is great for sunny days but due to the ‘unique’ nature of the Scottish weather, I tend to ride mostly with the bonus Red Ionized lens that’s optimised for variable conditions – aka the norm in the Highlands!

If you do want to take both with you and keep your options open out on the hill then Dragon’s Swiftlock Lens Tech has your back.

Switching between the two is genuinely easy (I promise!) – a mere flick of a lever is all that’s required to release and replace a lens.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £160

VERDICT: Clean, simple, technical, proven and laden with kick-ass style. dragonalliance.com 94 www.fall-line.co.uk

COROS VERTIX GPS ADVENTURE WATCH TESTED BY SOPHIE If you’re tired of the age-old Garmin v Suunto debate and looking for an alternative multisport outdoor watch then the genuinely industry-disrupting award-winning Coros Vertix GPS Adventure watch is a truly cracking option.

Unlike many other watches in this sector, the Vertix has been designed specifically with outdoor adventure in mind.

Whilst other high-end devices seem to have become increasingly laden with unnecessary features that invariably compromise battery life, the Vertix has clearly been built for the core adventure audience.

Great looking, rugged, lightweight (76g without silicone strap), affordable (comparatively), and super intutitive to use – the Vertix is immediately impressive out of the super cool mini pelican case it comes in, but it’s in the field where it really knocks it out the park.

All the features are accessed via just three buttons, one of which comes with a digital dial that’s easy to operate with one finger even when wearing ski gloves.

The screen may be a little bit darker than its competitors but the battery life you get in return is well worth the trade off (and if you really need to brighten things up you simply press the ‘light’ button).

With 45 days battery life in regular mode, 60 hours in full GPS mode and 150 hours in UltraMax mode, the Vertix lasts longer than any other GPS watch on the market. A fully charged Vertix battery will last about twice as long as the much-lauded Garmin Fenix 6 and takes half the time to re-charge from empty.

Not content with its industry-leading battery life that performs in extreme cold (it works down to -20°C with less than a 30% depreciation in battery performance), the Vertix can also claim to be the only GPS watch with a 150m waterproof rating and 24/7 blood oxygen monitoring to aid altitude acclimatization.

Throw in a whole host of other kick-ass features including customizable watch faces, 24/7 heart rate monitoring, back-to-start navigation, barometric altimeter, compass, and it’s little wonder that Coros has attracted some of the world’s leading ultra and mountain athletes onto its pro team.

Used in conjunction with the app, the Vertix also functions as a personal training hub where you can create your own training plans, track and analyse your progress (including VO2 max, training load and threshold pace) and download workouts from legendary mountain pros including alpinist Steve House, climber Andres Martin and pro trail runners Hillary Allen and Sage Canaday. It also works with third party apps such as Strava and Training Peaks. Super cool.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £539

VERDICT: The search for the ultimate GPS multisport adventure watch may well be over. Well played Coros, well played indeed. coros.com www.fall-line.co.uk 95

TRIED & TESTED

DYNAFIT HOJI FREE 110 TESTED BY MARTIN I was a huge fan of the Hoji Free when the 130 model first came out, but I have to admit I like a slightly softer boot, so I was psyched to get my hobbit feet into these bad boys.

A slick looking boot, they almost explode at the front when you open them up. It takes a while to work out how to get them back together the first time, but once you’ve got it dialled you are in for a treat.

Jumping in, the tongue is on a Velcro adjuster (make sure that slides in without catching) so you can ease any pressure spots on your shins over multi day trips (if ever required).

Closing the boot, you have three buckles and a power-strap to ensure you get the perfect fit.

The Ultra Lock system on the power strap does what it says on the tin: ultra-easy to adjust and locks solid where you want it. I tend to crank them up in ski mode at the start, then flip them open for skinning. Cue the major Dynafit USP – the one lever transition.

Dynafit have always been king of the one lever transition in my eyes and the Hoji Free 110 simply reinforces this rep. Once they are set up right, opening the heel lever gives you oodles of flex for easy skinning, and plenty of room for comfy manoeuvre. Yet with two buckles over the foot, you can keep a grip of your edges (or your boot crampons) when you’re in more challenging terrain.

Lock Dynafit’s infamous Hoji Lock lever down and you get all the support of a performance hooning boot – but not in a rigid and restrictive way that you get with some other boots in this genre.

The Hoji Free 110s ski with a progressive flex, which gives them the edge over the 130 for me. I like to be able to bend my ankles; to stand up and mince through powder; but to crank on the fronts and put the hammer down in the hardpack when required.

These boots give back every ounce of oomph you put into them, all over the mountain. Furthermore, they make me feel more nifty and nimble than locked in and lifeless. It is hard to imagine such all-round performance from just 1550g of boot.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £620

VERDICT: A superlative free touring boot with excellent uphill comfort. dynafit.com

SCOTT COULOIR MOUNTAIN HELMET TESTED BY LEE

FALL-LINE MISTER YETI BUFF TESTED BY SOPHIE New for winter 2021, this limited-edition buff/ headband/neck gaiter/face covering features the coolest kid on the mountain, Fall-Line’s new Mister Yeti mascot! Mister Yeti is a total dude with bags of character and the 100% acrylic buff he’s printed on has heaps of applications.

I’ve been wearing mine as a headband when out earning my turns in the Scottish backcountry this winter and loving it. It keeps my ears and forehead cozy on windy ascents whilst allowing the heat to escape from the top of my head so I don’t get too sweaty.

It’s also equally useful as a neckwarmer on those wild winter days when you really need to wear a hat to keep things cosy ‘oop top’ and as a face covering when grabbing that post-ski takeaway coffee (literally this year’s must-have accessory).

If you can’t get to the mountains this winter, don’t worry. Mister Yeti is the perfect partner for all your outdoor adventures. Winter walks, frosty trail runs, character-building road and mountain bike rides – the Mister Yeti buff is a multi-talented bit of kit designed to keep you cosy when it’s cold and cool when it’s hot.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £5

VERDICT: A versatile accessory with a heap of personality – everyone needs a Mister Yeti buff in their life! fall-linemedia.co.uk 96 www.fall-line.co.uk

This dual-certified ski and mountaineering helmet has all the cred to help keep your head safe and protected when travelling in the high mountains.

Scott’s tech dudes have used ultra-protective wonder material Casidion in the top of the shell to create a feathery, freeride-inspired lid designed to provide the latest in impact protection.

Apparently Casidion is ‘EPS on steroids’ – a big time material that’s widely used in motorbike helmets.

The Couloir lid is light and low profile so you can easily strap it to your pack or wear it when skinning on wild days in the backcountry and/or bootpacking in exposed and rocky terrain.

Lining up in Scott’s Ski Touring ‘Mountain’ collection, it comes with softer ear pads than the Swiss brand’s more mainstream, resort-specific helmets which means you can fold the ear pads inside the helmet, resulting in a more streamlined package when attached to your pack. The removable liner means you can wear it over a beanie, or on its own on those warmer spring days. It’s also headtorch compatible.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £145

VERDICT: A versatile, light and comfy lid that will take you from the resort into the big mountains in style and safety. scott-sports.com

ultrasporteu.com

01332813150

info@ultrasporteu.com

www.bernhelmets.com

TRIED & TESTED

REIMA TAITOA THERMALS TESTED BY NICOLA, MOTHER OF LUPO, 6, AND PAX, 4 Only a moment after my four and six-year-olds fly into the kitchen and land in some sort of a kung fu stance declaring, “we are stripy ninjas!”, my four-year-old takes me aside and whispers to me, “Mummy, they’re not even itchy”.

Now, I’m sure most parents would agree that two of the key things they value in their kids’ lives are their stoke and their comfort. Reima has managed to create a matching top and bottom baselayer, called Taitoa, which succeeds in ticking both of these boxes.

The boys think they are the most comfortable thermals they have tried, thanks to Reima’s bamboo viscose weave on the inner side of the thermals. They are super soft – soft enough to not provoke the contact dermatitis that other polyester thermals tend to in my youngest. The wool outer layer keeps them warm, but the fabric is breathable enough not to make them overheat.

As for the crazy-cool stripe patterns, I guarantee your kids will love them, but if they are too much for your eyes then Reima offers more classic solid colours on its website.

Seeing more and more articles on the damage that washing synthetic textiles does to our world’s waterways, the all-natural fibre blend should let those with ecological concerns sleep better too. Nice.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £60 per set

VERDICT: Wool-bamboo thermals that are as soft, snazzy and ecological as they get. reima.com

NAMUK FOUR SNOW JACKET AND CORBET SNOW BIB PANTS TESTED BY CHRIGL, FATHER OF LUPO, 6 I’ll be honest, as soon as I had taken a good look at this Namuk gear I went online to check if they did adult sizes – sadly they don’t. The colours are unlike the standard fare adults are offered (pictured here is the Wasabi-coloured Four Snow Jacket, with the Purple Beans Corbet pants). So, yes, the colours are cool and the cuts are dialled but, of course, Namuk’s reputation hasn’t been built solely on how their gear looks, but how it performs. These boast 15,000mm waterproofing/15,000gm breathability, combined with PrimaLoft Bio insulation, which simply means, your young one will stay dry and warm at least as long as you will.

If you are serious about offering your kids the best experience in the mountains then take note of the other features: the pants are bib pants, to keep snow out when building igloos or learning powder technique; the pants can be zipped onto the jacket for extra security in deep snow; the seams are all fully taped; there are pockets for ski passes/goggles/sandwiches/garbage; the jacket has underarm vents; the outer material is soft but appears very durable. Essentially, there is nothing that has been left off of a top-spec adult outfit. Sure, this gear is as pricy as kids’ ski wear gets, but you get what you pay for.

Last, but not least, something that highlights Namuk’s focus on the younger generation and the future they will inherit, is the sustainability of the gear. Namuk can confidently say they are a brand with a conscience thanks to their charitable actions, and also their efforts to include recycled and trademarked biodegradable materials in this gear and other ski suits, in order to reduce the impact our kids’ ski wear has on the planet. Bravo, Namuk.

LOW-DOWN RRP: JACKET £256, PANTS £194

VERDICT: Ethically produced gear, which is technologically up to spec.

Don’t be afraid to size up. namuk.ch 98 www.fall-line.co.uk

STEALTH GTX® GLOVE

DREW JOLOWICZ P: TOSHI PANDER

100% “GRADE A” LEATHER

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TRIED & TESTED

THE NORTH FACE SUMMIT SERIES L3 50/50 DOWN JACKET TESTED BY SOPHIE Undeniably best suited to mountaineers looking for a do-it-all layer, this also works really well for those wild winter ski tours when you need a warm yet breathable jacket for the descent. Built for heart pumping activities in the coldest of environments, the innovative new 50/50 construction takes toasty 800 fill power hydrophobic down and stuffs it into separate tubes which are then stitched individually to the interior. The idea is that the gap between these baffles allows heat and moisture to escape through the air-permeable nylon face fabric to offer maximum warmth and breathability.

I’ve tested it in on numerous character-building backcountry adventures in the north west Highlands where it definitely impressed. As soon as you pull it on you feel warm yet it’s surprisingly light for such a big cosy jacket, packing down easily into the integrated stuff sack to the size of a Nalgene.

While mega warm outer layers are always appreciated on bone-chilling summits they can rapidly become superfluous to requirements as you make your way further down the mountain into more benign conditions. This is where the 50/50’s funky construction does a great job of keeping you warm yet it genuinely does allows the heat out. Features of note include the insulated helmet-compatible hood that’s easily cinched in.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £470

VERDICT: Ideal for chilly descents, mid-winter dawn patrols and big days at altitude, it feels like getting into a cosy sleeping bag. thenorthface.co.uk

OOSC FOLIE SKI SUIT TESTED BY NICOLA There is no way of understanding how good an OOSC suit actually looks until you see it in its natural habitat – on the mountain. The colours and the form-fitting shape make the wearer look like they were sent in a time machine from an era when skiing was all about fun, when it took itself less seriously!

I initially was nervous about wearing a suit so bold, but since feeling how streamlined and comfortable it is, and hearing the comments of approval I am getting, I am genuinely picking it over some of the most technically advanced jackets and pants in the business.

Some days all I want to do is just have fun out there, and it is impossible not to ski with a feeling of joy when wearing this suit.

Sure, the breathability and waterproofing (10,000gm/10,000mm) aren’t much to talk about, but there are plenty of features besides the retro looks that make the Folie suit for women (there are loads of men’s options too) a practical outfit for almost any mountain experience. The insulation provides great protection from the cold, and there are vents under the arms and at the thigh for extra breathability. I have skied in this one-piece on sunny, warm days; in blizzards with 100km/h winds; on powder days; on wet days; and never once did I get too cold or too hot.

It’s also worth pointing out its eco credentials. OOSC (Original Old School Ski Company) make all of its outerwear from recycled polyester made from plastic bottles.

The greatest pluses are the form-fitting svelte nature of the suit – I never realised how bulky some of my other jackets and pants are – the colours, and the reminder that skiing need not be so serious.

It harks back to the age of bold style, flamboyance and fun. Let’s bring that attitude back! Thanks for the reality check, OOSC.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £250

VERDICT: Super comfortable and with a big dollop of fun. oosc-clothing.com 100 www.fall-line.co.uk

FOR THE SKIN TRACK AND THE RESORT

SKIER: Sam Schwartz | PHOTO: Will Eginton

MINDBENDER 120

TRIED & TESTED

RAB KHROMA KINETIC JACKET AND PANTS TESTED BY MARTIN The Kinetic Jacket and Pants from Rab line up in the British brand’s new touring-specific Khroma collection. Designed for backcountry skiers looking for waterproof protection and max breathability, the Kinetic combo has a soft ‘hardshell’ construction making it ideal for spring skiing - a slightly less rugged alternative to the also-new Khroma GTX line.

The jacket is relatively light yet big and burly enough – in the cut, rather than the weight – to be a proper hardshell. The new 20D Proflex fabric is supple, breathable and stretchy enough to feel like softshell; yet waterproof enough to compete with any hardshell.

And, oh man, did I test it in some filthy weather.

Slightly longer than a mountaineering hard shell (a critical 2cm) it is not so long as to interfere with a harness. This is tricky to get right but Rab have nailed it.

It turns out that every other detail on the jacket is equally well considered. At first, I was a bit cynical about the stingy Velcro cuff closures. I expected them to freeze and ice up in no time at all, but they combine well with the elastic opening to be compatible with most gloves.

I really like the absolutely cavernous and ‘venting’ Napoleon pockets. Offering a neat alternative to pit zips, the vents are positioned at the back of the arms which offers superior air circulation and a through flow ventilation system that actually works.

The hood is way big enough to get over a lid; yet rolls down or cinches tight when you’re hitting the hill helmet-free. Mitt friendly closures and adjustments can be found throughout. All in all, a really well thought out and stripped ‘back to essentials’ jacket, 102 www.fall-line.co.uk

weighing in at a very packable 532g. When it comes to touring pants, I’m normally strictly a softshell kinda guy but the Kinetic Pants are definitely forcing me to have a re-think.

An ideal replacement for the Patagonia Descensionist, I gave them a proper challenging test through lockdown (from the door, obvs) in the harshest conditions you could imagine… They breathe really well, yet the Proflex fabric shrugs off the wettest and wildest weather with ease.

Now I may be more ‘form follows function’ than fashionista, but halle-bloody-lujah! It’s great to have a pair of shell pants in a light colour for once as it really helps reflect the heat of the spring sun.

The details are everything you expect from Rab and their mountaineering pedigree: just the right number of pockets, in all the right places. They may be lightweight but they have everything you need; and nothing you don’t. Top opening waist pockets keep clear of harness leg loops and the thigh pocket sits below with a neoprene transceiver pouch. The boot cuff is simple, light and uber-stretchy, so it fits over a closed boot, or skinning boot, with no need for adjustment.

LOW-DOWN JACKET RRP: £300

VERDICT: Ideally suited to highly functional ‘need a shell all day’ missions in burly conditions.

PANTS RRP: £250

VERDICT: The ideal pant for ski mountaineers who love the up as much as the down – and are just too busy to change their pants or faff with overtrousers. rab.equipment/uk

ST ROTATION

www.dynafit.com

TRIED & TESTED

Read about the ski-building process of the Ronin skis in our 2021 Gear Guide

RONIN 116 SKIS TESTED BY CHRIGL Having put in five full days of testing, in varying snow conditions, on the handmade freetouring Ronin 116, my overwhelming impression of it is one of total confidence. When you have a trip planned, a bag packed with skins, crampons etc., you want to be sure that the ski you bring will be the right one whatever conditions you find, and this Ronin delivers that confidence in spades.

On the first day of testing, the game became to try and find a turn shape or a snow type that the ski would object to. I tried heavy untracked mashed potatoes with a load of different turn shapes; I tried tight trees, steeps, fast speeds, hard-snow short swing and carves, ollies, drifts… the 116 was there for me every time.

I couldn’t outwit it.

All the while, the skis were quiet – there was minimal vibration transmission. Having hand-built the skis at Ronin in Chamonix, under the tutelage of Jonno (read all about the process in our 2021 Gear Guide), I recalled the rubber inserts we had placed in the ‘vibier’ areas, and, moreover, the layer of organic flax throughout the length of ski, which counteracts the undesirable effects of the carbon lay-up.

Run after run, my sense was that the skis were immensely ‘comfortable’ to ski. They were intuitive – twitch your ankle and they change direction, and you get that fresh turn or avoid that rock.

Part of their responsiveness is owed to their very mellow underfoot camber and progressive rocker profile. The sheer pivotability of the 116 means you can get yourself into, and out of, trouble in an instant.

Of course, it’s a double-edged sword, so where the gentle camber helps with manoeuvrability, the edge grip, despite the performance of the bamboo sidewalls, and poppiness are not quite on the same 104 www.fall-line.co.uk

level as something with a lot of camber (the Ronin 108 is more cambered underfoot). I also felt that the stated radius of 21m felt a touch longer when I lent them over for some carves (but given how precise Jonno is with his engineering this could merely be my impression rather than fact).

The salient feature of the Ronin’s is how light they are. These 116mm 187.5cm skis are a mere 1800g per ski. That is mega light, they tracked uneven snow better than anything I have skied in this weight category. I am happy I mounted them with the versatile Shift binding for extra precision and security albeit with a weight penalty.

There is no question in my mind that I would have been just as content with a pin binding and the resulting uphill performance will definitely be a priority for many customers (the current Ronin range is touring focussed). I mounted them at +1 from Jonno’s recommended point, which ended up being -10cm from True Centre.

Having built the skis at the Ronin workshop, I can confirm that skiing something that you know literally inside and out is a supercool feeling. I learned a lot about ski design during the process and subsequently during testing. In some ways it feels like the skis being as good as they are is just a bonus.

LOW-DOWN RRP: From €1500, including two days spent building the skis in Jonno’s workshop. From €1150 off the shelf VERDICT: Balanced. A massive sweet spot (can be skied slow/fast or short/ long radius with either a fore/aft weight distribution). Light, comfortable, forgiving but keen to shred. Can be customised for softer/stiffer profile at build. Aesthetically gorgeous. Available in 98, 108 and 116 widths. roninskis.com

©OAKLEY INC.

OAKLEY.COM

TRIED & TESTED

Simple, yet effective. We like

Introducing the Grippy/Tidy couple…

MR. GRIPPY AND MS. TIDY TESTED BY MARTIN You might know me as a Mountain Guide and backcountry whittler of words, but way back in the day I actually studied industrial design to degree level.

While I may have turned my back on that career, I still love the whole design process, so when a product like Happy Norwegian’s Mr. Grippy ski tuning stand comes along I’m as keen to learn about the concept and design itself as I am to find out whether the end product really works!

So intrigued was I that I sat down with Espen Hinsch – the CEO of Happy Norwegian – to find out more . . .

The brain child of Espen and his friend and colleague, Brage Eriksen, Mr. Grippy is a pop-up ski tuning stand designed to offer a space-saving, affordable solution to the expensive business of ski servicing.

Being true Norwegians, Espe and Brage were practically born with skis on their feet, keen on both cross-country (XC) and alpine skiing from the start. Fast forward to 2016 when they were both students, studying economics and entrepreneurship, of all things.

They were living in small apartments, with precious little space to service their skis and no work bench in sight.

They were looking for a portable solution, having been frustrated that you could blow over €200 on expensive vices that might wreck 106 www.fall-line.co.uk

your table and still wouldn’t really work for both kinds of ski.

And so the first wooden prototype of Mr. Grippy was born.

SO WHAT ACTUALLY IS IT?

Like all the best ideas, the concept is refreshingly simple. Just two blocks (like stools) that support either end of your ski, on any flat surface.

The end product may be minimalist and straight-forward, but the journey to production was anything but.

To begin with, everything that could go wrong, did go wrong.

Getting the right combination of materials took a while. They had every kind of production problem. Bonding the rubber to the composite structure was a nightmare… But in the end their struggles have been our gain.

The latest stands are robustly moulded from a sturdy composite material, with the oh-so-grippy rubber layer melted (thus firmly bonded) onto the composite moulding later. The rubber is unbelievably grippy and tacky and the more pressure you apply to the ski, the more it grips.

They also experimented with size and the latest iteration is perfect for servicing a single alpine ski at a time, or for waxing both your XC skis together for a perfect match. Having been rigorously tested by the Norwegian freeski team, they are confident that they will really last the distance.

Two blocks (like stools) support either end of your ski…

…on any flat surface…

…while rubbery feet make Mr. Grippy live up to his name

What’s for tea tonight, dear?

Simply adjust the blocks for a firm waxing

Grippy AND tidy.

What's not to love?

HOW DOES IT PERFORM?

Cleaning the bases is a doddle, with the ski sitting flat on the stands.

To sharpen your edges, simply roll a ski onto its side into the slots provided. This is where it gets clever – as your slim tip and tail will easily slot in, then you slide the stands together until the slots grip on a wider section of ski (although don’t go too nuts with this, or you will struggle to release them afterwards).

Your ski is now well and truly clamped and will take any amount of pressure as you file your edges. I was slightly concerned about the metal filings getting stuck all over the grippy rubber surface, but a quick rinse or wipe with a damp cloth nailed that pronto.

All good so far . . .

With the stands clean, flip the ski to work on the base. This is where I discovered a double bonus, as you can put the stands anywhere you want. This meant I was able to put the ski across my stove and under my extractor hood to P-tex the bases (yes, I know, I should get a P-tex gun – but I usually do this on the road!). Back on the worktop, waxing was super easy. I had to experiment to shift the stands under the optimal point on the ski, but this is so quick and easy. In fact, once again, it is better than a fixed position ski vice.

With rubber grips on the feet as well as the deck, scraping the wax off the length of the ski was no drama – nothing budged at all. Just get the Hoover out quick before the other half gets home! Seriously though, any cooled wax just chipped off the stands after use, and cleaning up was a doddle.

This is where Ms. Tidy comes in. As the ‘female’ in the partnership, she’s obviously the ultimate cog in the wheel that makes the whole process efficient and practical. Ms. Tidy is an optional clip-in extra storage tray that allows you to slot the stands together, bundle all your ski service kit into the tray, giving you a single block to keep all your kit together to store neatly away.

Overall I was suitably impressed and convinced this is a serious solution. These now have a place in the van for all my alpine road-trips, as I will be able to service my skis in any boot room, hotel room, alongside at the quay or out the back of the van on the roadside if needs be.

On the down side, at 33 x 26 x 17cm when stacked, they are a bit too big and bulky to fly with, but for all other trips they are the answer.

Having been adopted by the Norwegian ski team, they have been super well tested and developed. Espen and the team are understandably proud of their quirky product – deservedly so, in my opinion.

LOW-DOWN RRP: £90

VERDICT: Affordable, practical and proven – a truly excellent solution for ski servicing on the move. happynorwegian.no www.fall-line.co.uk 107

RETAILERS’ DIRECTORY ACTIVE SNOWSPORTS

BOARDWISE

activesnowsports.com 01473 487474 Suffolk Ski Centre, Ipswich

B

boardwise.com 0131 229 5887 Cannock & Edinburgh

ABSOLUTE SNOW

craigdonmountainsports.com 01467 625855/0131 445 7711/ 01224 62433/01463 248600/ 01738 631006

absolute-snow.co.uk 01442 232154 Watford, Herts

Scotland

Inverurie, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Inverness, Perth

ALPINE ROOM

alpineroom.co.uk 01245 223563 Danbury, Essex

ANYTHING TECHNICAL

braemar@braemarmountainsports. com 01339 741242 Braemar, Scotland

skiequipmentuk.co.uk 01539 734701 Kendal, Cumbria

With three shops in the Cairngorms National Park, our Aviemore & Braemar stores specialise in telemark, alpine and nordic touring equipment, while Aviemore has a wide selection of specialist climbing equipment and ice tools. Our shops provide a relaxed and welcoming environment in which customers can browse around whilst dreaming of their next adventure.

“Can’t make it to the store?

Then check out all of our products online at braemarmountainsports.com

ATTWOOLLS

attwoolls.co.uk 01452 742233 Gloucester

BAC OUTDOORS LEISURE bac-e.com 01422 371146 Elland, West Yorkshire

BACKCOUNTRY UK

backcountryuk.com 01943 816011 Ilkley, West Yorkshire

Scotland’s largest independent ski retailer with five locations throughout Scotland. We pride ourselves on our friendly service and expertise, offering a wide range of ski equipment and clothing, including custom boot fitting and ski touring departments.

DEVON SKI CENTRE devonski.co.uk 01626 833356 Newton Abbot, Devon

DEVINE RIDE

devineride.co.uk 0121 4231160 Halesowen, West Midlands

CARTERS

The UK’s largest and most established ski retailer with 27 stores nationwide.

Stockists of the largest range of men’s and women’s ski and boot brands, including Atomic, Salomon and Rossignol. Try before you buy today at selected locations nationwide.

carters360.com 0118 959 9022 Reading, Berkshire

Being dedicated skiers we pride ourselves in our specialist ski boot fitting, full shell adaptation, liner moulding and custom insoles. Wide range of skis, boots and clothing all widely tried and tested. Full ski workshop in store, on site servicing.

B

dicksboardstore.co.uk 0114 279 7909 Sheffield, South Yorkshire

tiso.com/blues 0131 554 9101 Scotland (Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness & Perth)

Snowboard stockist

108 www.fall-line.co.uk

horacebarton.co.uk 01242 516772 Cheltenham, Glos

LD MOUNTAIN CENTRE

ldmountaincentre.com 0191 232 3561 Newcastle, Tyne & Wear

LOVE & PISTE

loveandpiste.co.uk 01509 853944 Loughborough, Leics

MAGIC TOAST

NEVISPORT

nevisport.com 01479 810239 Nationwide

COYOTI SKI & SNOWBOARD

profeet.co.uk 0207 736 0046 London

Vale of Glamorgan, Wales

ROUTE ONE finchesemporium.com 020 8699 6768 Forest Hill, London

countryside.co.uk 01438 353086 Stevenage, Herts

As one of the oldest independent ski shops in the UK, Countryside Ski & Climb are dedicated to bringing you the best gear with unmatched customer service. Offering expert fitting and advice on all things ski, with gear from leading brands such as Patagonia, Salomon, Hestra and Helly Hansen.

Prepare for your next adventure with Countryside Ski & Climb.

B

magictoast.com 0116 2124262 Leicester, Leics

PROFEET

coyoti.com 01446 775778

banksofperth.co.uk 01738 624928 Perth, Scotland

B

HORACE BARTON & SON

lockwoods.com 01926 339388 Leamington Spa, Warks

cairngorm@ braemarmountainsports.com 01479 810 903 Aviemore, Scotland

BLUES THE SKI SHOP

Bringing the ski shop to your doorstep, anywhere in the UK. Specialising in custom ski boot fitting, with simple, old fashioned, one to one customer service.

We’re a totally mobile business, stocking the best kit, from the biggest brands in the industry, all backed by our Comfort Fit Guarantee.

LOCKWOODS

ellis-brigham.com 0800 035 6483 mail.order@ellis-brigham.com Nationwide

BIG DICK’S BOARDSTORE

hikeandride.co.uk 07719 315301 info@hikeandride.co.uk London

Finches are the only independent ski & snowboard store in London run by the same family since 1947. Our vast store is packed with a huge range of equipment, clothing & accessories & backed up by experts who will help you with your selection.

FLUID LINES

fluid-lines.co.uk 01206 545533 Colchester

FREEZE PRO SHOP

freezeproshop.com 0131 2609677 Edinburgh, Scotland

routeone.co.uk Nationwide

rivingtonalpine.co.uk 01257 483999 Adlington, Lancs

Specialising in service and knowledge for ski hardware. We’re Masterfit graduate fitters, and have a fully equipped boot lab with fit guarantee.

We have ski tested extensively and can provide you with excellent, first hand advice for ski purchasing and on-site servicing.

Hardware is our thing. Oh and Jägermeister, don’t forget the Jägermeister!

SAIL AND SKI

SNOW TOGS

SCOOTER & SKI

SNOWEAR

sailandski.co.uk 01244 401449 Chester, Cheshire scooterandski.co.uk 0117 970 1356 Bristol

skishops.co.uk 023 807 73925 Southampton, Hants snowear.co.uk 01892 517807 Tunbridge Wells, Kent

SKEE-TEX

skee-tex.co.uk 01268 768282 Essex

skibartlett.com 0208 848 0040 info@skibartlett.com Uxbridge, West London

Bringing you the most comprehensive range of skis and boots in the UK, combined with over 50 years of specialist expertise and friendly, helpful advice. Our goal is to help you choose the correct equipment to improve your skiing. We are custom boot fitting specialists, and Ski Industries of Great Britain official ski testers. We are also a World Snow Awards winner.

SKI EXCHANGE

skiexchange.co.uk 01954 210984 Cambridge, Cambs

THE SKI SHOP

theski-shop.co.uk 01732 464463 Sevenoaks, Kent

snowfit.co.uk 01603 716655 info@snowfit.co.uk Norwich, Norfolk

Snowfit/Revolutionz, looking after skiers and snowboarders since 1998.

Our dedicated staff have a wide range of expertise. Our huge choice of skis, snowboards and boots includes a specialist Ski and Snowboard Touring Department. On-site boot fitting, Physio Clinic and ski/snowboard servicing workshops make Snowfit/Revolutionz your one-stop wintersports specialists.

SNOWTRAX

snowtraxstore.co.uk 01202 499155 Christchurch, Dorset

SOLUTIONS 4 FEET

solutions4feet.com 01869 244424 Bicester, Oxfordshire

SUBVERT

subvertboardstore.com 0161 7476066 Castleford & Manchester

SUFFOLK SKI CENTRE

suffolkskicentre.co.uk 01473 487474 Ipswich, Suffolk

snowandrock.com 0117 456 2355 Nationwide

Expert advice born from experience and quality gear from the very best ski and outdoor brands - find it all at Snow+Rock.

Advertise your business here and be seen by the kind of folk who view shopping for skis, boots, helmets and kit as serious stuff.

Fall-Line’s esteemed ad manager Rich is the guy who can make the magic happen. For details email him on sales@fall-line.co.uk

THE SNOWBOARD ASYLUM

B

ellis-brigham.com 01827 59047 Tamworth, Staffs (The Snowdome)

TRESPASS snowlab.co.uk 01323 848410 Hailsham, East Sussex

Snow Lab is an independent specialist winter sports store based in East Sussex.

We are committed to bringing you the best products available to the winter sports industry. We offer a comprehensive custom boot fitting service, only using experienced and knowledgeable fitters to maximise your comfort and performance.

Snow Lab has an onsite workshop for all your servicing needs. We also hire quality ski and snowboard equipment.

Please see our website for more details.

thebootbus.co.uk 07792 199099 thebootbus@outlook.com Kent

The Boot Bus is a one-stop ski shop, providing all you need from an alpine stockist at a time and location that suits you best.

With our mobile service we visit you to service skis, fit boots and everything in between. Covering the South-East UK & more!

THE OUTDOOR STORE

braemarmountainsports.com 01339 753878 Ballater, Scotland

trespass.com 0141 568 8089 Nationwide

tallingtonlakesproshop.com 01778 347000 sales@tallington.com Tallington, Lincolnshire

Est 1975. An independent ski and snowboard retailer, with years of experience. Large selection of quality products in store and online. Expert boot fitting service. On-site dry ski slope and equipment servicing workshop.

FOR A FULL LIST OF SIGB RETAIL MEMBERS HEAD TO SIGB.ORG.UK

VENTURA

venturaski.co.uk 01942 717971 St Helens, Merseyside

WHITE STONE

white-stone.co.uk 01423 858584 Harrogate, North Yorkshire

BACKYARD EPICS

STATS Location: Elidir Fawr, Snowdonia, North Wales Distance from home to trailhead: 5.3km Route: Marchlyn Gate (330m), past the Dam (650m), to the summit of Elidir Fawr (924m).

Ski down via the ‘Elidir Blue Piste’

PHOTO MARK WALKER MOUNTAINEERING

Time: Three hours if you want to rush; seven hours for a few laps and to savour the sunset before rolling home!

A SNOWDONIA ADVENTURE

As his backyard’s transformed into a winter playground, Martin Chester is one happy man

L

iving in the sleepy Snowdonia village of Brynrefail, it is only a short walk to Pen Llyn or the head of the lake. Looking up the Llanberis Pass to Snowdon, this view contains memories of scrambling, running, walking, biking, kayaking, swimming, climbing and, once in a decade, some skiing.

These accessible adventures have seen my body and soul through cancer and Covid; and with the latest lockdown came one of the most unusual winters any of us can remember – for the volume and quality of the local sliders as much as the snow. It was a white Christmas over the modest summits of Snowdonia. Over the next days, the snow line crept down and fluctuated around 300m as the wind filled the hollows and the snow pack built above.

In the summer, on bike and on foot, our local summit of Elidir Fawr is a sub-two-hour adventure from the door. In winter, it would not be the obvious choice for North Wales’ premier ski resort, as it is a rocky and rugged affair. But the service road to the hydro scheme makes it amazingly accessible. It also forms an enticing horseshoe (the Pedol Elidir) with Carnedd y Filiast and Mynydd Perfedd (the ‘perfect mountain’).

Discovering that my 15-year-old son Joe and I could ‘pop out’ after home school, bike to the snow line, ski Elidir Fawr, and be back home within three hours, was a revelation.

110 www.fall-line.co.uk

With a fresh dump of snow over the summits and a calm day forecast, ‘Big Saturday’ was a chance of a lifetime for G’dad. Now 77 years young, David had become part of our household throughout the lockdowns.

Setting out, we strapped skis to bikes and poles to packs. Riding up the icy path, I questioned the impact of a sideways fall on David’s artificial hips but, barring one walk around a patch of ice, the ride passed without consequence. Getting up into the snow line, we were soon doing better than the cars…

Lots of cars! Despite the lockdown, there were crowds kitting up at Marchlyn. It is fair to question whether this is kosher, but it was inspirational to see (and we all have to run our own risk/benefit analysis and interpret ‘how local is local’ when travelling to exercise).

Bikes locked up, it was skins on. The antics on the dam road were hilarious, watching as people realised stiles, cattle grids and kissing gates are hardly regular alpine obstacles.

David and I quickly reached the Dam, and the literal ‘end of the road’, just as the mists swirled in. A quick bite in the tunnel entrance and we were soon questing up across the slopes of Elidir Fawr. The mist wrapped us in our own world as we felt our way up to the summit ridge. With wind-sculpted snow and poor visibility, it was easier to stash the skis at the col and boot the last, horizontal, 200m.

The views were spectacular. Holes in the mist drifted gently past, framing views out to the Menai Straits and the whole of Anglesey.

The bi-lingual banter (in Welsh and English) reminded us this was no ordinary ski peak, as eight more skiers appeared out of the clouds.

Back at the skis, we stripped skins and clicked into bindings. You don’t come here for the quality of the snow, but this was good. Once off the wind-battered ridge, we could let rip into the mist. A quick check of the altimeter and it was time to head left to the col.

Rime ice had transformed the netting fence into a one-foot-wide (but only a foot high now) barrier to straddle as we entered the surge pool bowl. Dropping out of the mist, the full Snowdon panorama opened up before us.

The grippy wind-pack underfoot held up particularly well as we cruised down the ‘Elidir Blue Piste’ to the surge pool enclosure.

A quick boot and a skate, and we were scoffing the remainder of our picnic at the road-head, marvelling that we had not hit a single rock, nor a single turn in crust. We savoured the view across sea and mountains, before the final descent to the bikes.

There is something amazing about having your backyard transformed into an unexpected winter playground. The combination of familiar hills and familiar faces are a pleasure. Here’s to the next time…

Photo : ©Sofia Sjoeberg

Jacob WESTER (SWE)

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