ISSUE 26 OCT 2020
Ellen Von Unwerth featuring Parker Winston
table of contents 248
268
Anja Van Herle
Personal feature
Personal feature
60 124
Elle Street Art
Anthony Peto
Exclusive Interview
Kilian Hennessy Exclusive Interview
212
Brooke Shaden
Personal feature
8
160
Dita Von Teese
184
Le Turk
Exclusive Interview
Personal feature
F A D DY Mag
10
Ellen Von Unwerth
Featuring Parker Winston - Cover Story
104
New York en Noir
Frederick Anderson - exclusive interview
288
82
Soy Tierra
42
When Night Falls
Freddy Koh
Latitu Bags
Advertorial
228
Martial Lenoir
Personal feature
Candice Solomon
9
ELLEN VON UNWERTH FEATURING PARKER WINSTON
ACTRESS, MODEL AND MUSE
Photographer Ellen Von Unwerth @ellenvonunwerth Model Parker Winston @parkerwinston Stylist/Fashion Contributor Newheart Z. Ohanian @newheartnyc Make-up and Hair Mark Williamson @markwilliamson45 for Artist management Miami @artistmanagementmiami and Creative Space artists @creativespaceartists using @MacPro ,@maccosmetics ,@byartis @privehair Nail tech Misa Matsumura @http.misam Assistant MUA Joel Marriott @joelmarriottmakeup Fashion Assistant Ellen-Claire Newell @ellenclaire_newell Producer Candice Solomon @candicesolomonstyle Candice Solomon and FADDY Magazine team assistant Helen Wiley @been_to_helen_back 11
LOVE MOSCHINO sweater - WOLFORD briefs- BEAUTIISOLES slides - ERICKSON BEAMON earrings <- On Front and Back Cover: AUGUSTO MANZANARES dress - ERICKSON BEAMON bunny ears - PER FIDEM moto bootsÂ
ERICKSON BEAMON pearls; hair and neck - LOVE MOSCHINO purse - MOLA WALKER dress -> on the right page:Model ERICKSON BEAMON cuff -- BETSY JOHNSON over knee knit socks - MOLA WALKER pin striped suit GUECHA: Dress choker DULCEand BESTIA Cape AFFFAIR - Boots 803LIFE - Earrings VAUJE
Photographer Rocio Segura @Rocio_segura_photography Models Natalya Piro @natalyapiro Elena Sartison @elenasartison Creative Director, Producer and Stylist Candice Solomon @candicesolomonstyle Hair Niko Weddle @Nikoweddle using Moroccanoil @moroccanoil Mua Marc Cornwall @marc_cornwall Nail Artist Misa Matsumura @http.misam 1st Assistant Stylist Helen Wiley @been_to_helen_back Assistant Stylist Holly Pan @hollyhpan A special thank you to Candice Solomon dear friend Al Tapper for his glorious Park Avenue Penthouse
When Night Falls
Model NATALYA PIRO: Beaded Gown and embroidered cape by NAEEM KHAN @naeemkhan Crystal Chandelier Earrings by ERICKSON BEAMON @ericksonbeamon
Model NATALYA PIRO: Beaded gown and Embroidered cape by NAEEM KHAN @naeemkhan Crystal earrings by ERICKSON BEAMON @ericksonbeamon <- on the left page: Model ELENA SARTINSON and NATALYA PIRO: Beaded cocktail dresses by NAEEM KHAN @naeemkhan Model ELENA SARTINSON: Head piece & earrings by ERICKSON BEAMON @ericksonbeamon
K I
wanted to bring the art of perfumery back to the pedestal, drawing on it to its most authentic truth; the way the
perfume was composed between the late nineteenth century and the beginning of the twentieth without giving up on adding a personal and contemporary touch Kilian Hennessy
ilian Hennessy exclusive interview
EXCLUSIVE I N T E RV I E W I N T E RV I E W B Y B I A G I O D E G I O VA N N I
Can you tell me a little bit about the
the simplest way to create a perfume. I
brand, can you describe it in 3 words?
wanted to go back to the 50’s and 60’s, when base notes were more important.
Heritage
Woods, Resins, Musks or Leather notes
Nightlife
make a perfume last longer. By focusing
Eco-luxury
on those base notes, perfumes with depth were created, which became my
62
You come from a family of illustrious
olfactive signature. The funny thing is
Cognac makers and producers, can
that I grew up with some of these base
you tell us if this has influenced your
notes like vanilla and wood. The sugar in
career and your love for fragrance
the alcohol of the cognac, the wood of
and how?
the barrels: familiar territory.
After my studies, I did a nose school
Before obtaining your degree, you
in Paris. As soon as I started smelling
wrote a thesis on the semantics of
raw materials and essential oils, I fell
perfume, in search of a common
in love with Perfume. When I started
“language” between gods and
in the industry, perfumes were mostly
mortals. You then remembered
composed around top and heart notes:
the “share of angels”, a story from
F A D DY Mag
build your brand? What lessons did
pushed you towards the world of
you take away from working with
perfumery. Can you tell me a little bit
each different fragrance house and/
more about this fascinating story?
or what did you think was missing there?
I believe that there are many similarities between creating a fine perfume and
I worked over the last 10 years in
creating a fine cognac. They are both
different groups for different brands,
complex creations, with many layers
always as a creative director designing
each of which develop over time – be
new scents. None were making me
it in a barrel or on the skin. It is true
very happy because it was too far from
that, in some way, my fragrances carry
what I felt a great perfume should be.
my childhood memories of the sugar
Before making the decision to start my
and the alcohol and the wood of the
own company, I was actually about to
cognac barrels. Remembering the
go work in fashion. I was really ready to
«angels’ share» as part of my heritage,
leave the perfume industry. One night
I was led into the world of perfumery.
I stopped by the Baccarat Museum in
The «angels’ share» is what the House
Paris. At that time they were exhibiting
of Hennessy calls the percentage that
one century of perfume in Baccarat
evaporates from cognac cellars, like an
bottles, and that’s when I realized the
offering to the gods.
level of craftsmanship and the attention to detail…it was gorgeous. It just felt
You’ve worked with some of the most
so right in terms of luxury feel. It felt
prestigious Perfume Houses in the
like this is what the customer should
world: Christian Dior, Paco Rabane,
deserve. The next day I canceled my
Giorgio Armani and Alexander
appointment with the fashion designers
McQueen; how has working with
to start my own company.
other houses helped you set up and
I feel terribly proud of what has been
Fragrances
your childhood, and it was this that
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Freddy Koh Soy Tierra
Director and Photographer Freddy Koh @freddy_koh Assistant Alberto Velasquez Model Daria Pershina Mua Anastasio Tuz Styling Adrian pavia Alejandra Iruegas Art Eugenia Lagarde Location Dreams Natura Spa Location Producer Charlie Lontano
Earrings FERNANDO RODRÍGUEZ - Blazer VERO DÍAZ
F
"I love women and design clothing to enhance and empower individuality. I believe fashion is your conversation with the world... If so then speak with an individual and authentic voice" FREDERICK ANDERSON
rederick Anderson New York en noir
ANTHONY PETO
Anthony Peto was born in London. He began his career in the English capital as the editor in chief of an art magazine and party planner. It was in the beginning of the 80’s, time during which he settled in France, that his love for hats grew. He founded his atelier in the center of Paris, gathering all the necessary craftmanship to insure a qualitative, handmade and innovative production. His main goal: create fashionable and esthetic hats that are easy towear and comfortable. His first collections were dedicated to masculine shapes such as the fedora or the top hat. With time, he decided to take a more artistical and freespirited direction: feather wigs, cut out hats, oversized hats and unusual materials, while still keeping more traditional and day to day shapes. Anthony Peto has now a worldwide distribution and has three flagship stores, two in Paris and one in Dublin, where Anthony has been living for several years now. His inspirations come is a mix between English eccentricity and Parisian elegance. The range of colors reminds us of the Mediterranean’s warm tons. Often requested by entertainment professionals or hat lovers from all around the world, Anthony Peto counts among his friends Jacques Audiard, Christian Louboutin, Mathieu Chedid, Justin Timberlake, Joey Starr and many more.
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EXCLUSIVE I N T E RV I E W I N T E RV I E W B Y A N N E Y S A G A I L L E
Anneysa Gaille: I’d like to start by asking about
AG: How has your perception of the psychology of
what inspired you to become a chapelier.
hat making developed over the years?
Anthony Peto: That’s an interesting question
AP: Well, I started in the eighties and the eighties
because I think at the time it seemed like an
were far more exuberant era than we’re in now for
accident. Before I started doing hats, I was editing
all kinds of reasons. So, I think the people in that era
an art magazine in London. Then I moved to Paris
were basically partying, having a good time, showing
and started this business more or less on a whim. It
off, and having fun. I don’t think that they were too
just seemed like a fun thing to do, and I didn’t really
concerned about what they were expressing as long
think I would take it very far. I thought maybe it
as they’re expressing something. I think that now I
would just be making hats and selling them on the
feel it’s more important to express the personality
market or to friends. But it took off really quickly.
of the person than just to go out there and be out
So, I would say that on one hand it was an accident.
there. So, I think, yes, how I perceive the psychology
On the other hand, I think it’s something that is
of hat making has become more focused in that
probably innate in me. I had an aunt, Judith Lieber,
sense.
who made handbags. So, in the family we have a string of people like her who make things, and
As far as the average hat wearer is concerned, a lot
I think that I’ve always been attracted to making
of people are very shy. They want something that
practical things, not art. Art is an activity, and I
they could wear that will maybe not attract too much
would rather make something that people use
attention and is easy to wear, but little by little by
in their daily life. Maybe because I don’t think I’m
offering more choices, you can persuade them to go
worthy of being an artist. I don’t know; I don’t want
a little bit further to wear something that really will
to go into that. So, it happened, and I eased into it,
attract attention—but in a good way—and will make
but I think it was always meant to be.
them feel comfortable at the same time. That means working with the customer. I’m finding something that
What I really like about hats is the closeness to
they can wear and really want to wear. So, in terms
the face and the fact that a hat will do a lot for
of the actual customers, I think what I understand
the psychology of the wearer by expressing their
about what people want has developed quite a bit.
personality in a way that I don’t think any other item
Obviously. I mean, I’ve got more experience than
of clothing can do. You can accentuate qualities
when I started out.
that a person has, or dig up qualities a person didn’t know they have; you can express elements
For example, there was a jazz musician who came
of fantasy within someone’s personality. A woman
into the shop. He used to play on stage and he was
can put on a hat and suddenly she’s almost Greta
quite shy and didn’t really want to move around on
Garbo, or something like that. I’m exaggerating,
stage and attract attention to himself. The other
but there is this whole aspect of hat wearing that
people in the band said, “Go and get a hat. Maybe
I don’t see with shoes or other accessories, and
you feel differently.” So, he came to us and we found
the psychology of hat wearing is something I find
him a hat that expressed a totally different aspect
endlessly fascinating.
of his personality. I can’t remember what it was. It 125
Anthony Peto in his workshop
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F A D DY Mag
In the hat shop
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A self-described Glamour Evangelist, Dita Von Teese once started a list of all the reasons to buy beautiful lingerie and ended up writing six pages. With a refreshing, down-toearth perspective, the Queen of Burlesque shares some of the stories that led her to this moment in time.
D
ita
Von Teese
Photo by Eric Brumfeld
Photo by Albert Sanchez
Le Turk
B
rooke Shaden
M
artial
Lenoir
A
sudden flash of bright, vivid eyes. A toss of
ion design led her to a career in the arts. In 1987,
exquisitely styled hair and chic, oversized
she enrolled in Belgium’s prestigious Higher Institute
sunglasses with a touch of Swarovski crys-
for Art Education where she earned a Master’s of
tals. These are the timeless moments when we en-
Fine Arts in Painting. In 2003, Anja relocated to Los
counter high fashion, and artist Anja Van Herle has
Angeles, where she now concentrates on playful
caught them all and more in her remarkable body of
figurative paintings that combine a European sense
work mixing both classical and contemporary ideas
of high fashion with an American sense of wonder.
of fashion. Anja specializes in large-scale paintings
As timelessly chic as Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at
featuring beautiful, idealized faces, often framed
Tiffany’s, Anja’s women are playfully sexy, and their
with elegant eyewear. “If the eyes are the window to
expressions and eyes tell stories that go far beyond
the soul, then glasses are more than just an acces-
the simple exhibition of fine fashion. In Anja’s mas-
sory; they’re an extension of one’s personality. The
terful hands, fashion becomes alive.
use of sunglasses in my work allows me to define my
“These women—they feel.”
subjects and infuse each composition with a vibrant juxtaposition of color.” Born in Belgium in 1969, Anja’s early interest in fash250
F A D DY Mag
http://www.studioanja.com/
Chain on You 38”x50”
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F A D DY Mag
Call me Mellow Yellow 42”x42”
253
ELLE STREET ART
E
LLE’s work is evocative,
tall projection onto the facade of
borate with sportswear brand
alluring, lavish, outrageous,
the New Museum in New York.
Reebok. The brief was to take
purposeful and informative.
Vogue Australia featured ELLE’s
her energetic street style and
Although she began as an illegal
recent artworks in “32 pieces of
apply it to clothing. The result, the
graffiti artist in New York, ELLE is
Melbourne street art to see before
ELLExReebok graffiti legging and
now considered one of the top
you die,” and her graffiti is featured
subsequently, the ELLExReebok
touring street artists. “ELLE has
in the Tom Clancy video game: The
yoga capsule collection.
created some of the most memo-
Division. “She holds specific and
rable walls in all streetart” - Wo-
hard to find creative talent which
Within the New Nike Headquarters
men Street Artists, book by Xavier
cannot be taught nor replicated.”
in Melbourne, one will find a 40
Tapies.
The Taboo Group. Her artwork has
meter wrap around painting by
been published in dozens of books
ELLE. If in Berlin, one might see an
Her work has been exhibited in
on streetart along with hundreds
Augmented reality installation with
the prestigious Saatchi Gallery in
of online publications and articles.
Samsung, as well as a 5 story wall
London, Urban Nation Museum in Berlin, and as a two hundred foot
268
F A D DY Mag
along Gorlizer park commissioned ELLE was approached to colla-
by Berlin Mural Festival. She joined
Steve Aoki headlining in an Asics
Space for Sinners,” followed by a
“Brooklyn’s ELLE is at the front of
Campaign “I Move Me” speaking
joint Exhibition and painting of a
a pack of female street and graffiti
on how her creativity is inspired
large scale public sculpture with
artists clawing their way into what
by movement, and starred along-
renowned artist Judith Wierseman
has historically been a male-run art
side Dani Leigh in an episode of a
in Amsterdam at Vroom and Varos-
scene”.
Graffiti Artists x Rappers TV show.
sieau Gallery in 2019.
She touts a past global collaboration with Ikea, invitations to work
Elle finished 2020 by painting four
with Kanye West’s creative agency,
large murals for Ralph Lauren in
Curio, and more.
Tribeca NY, a 3,000 square foot painting at the base of the infa-
ELLE was invited to be Artist in Re-
mous Vessel structure in New York
sidence inside of the Rialto Towers
City along the highline, as well as a
precinct in Melbourne where she
four story high tribute painting to
had her first Solo exhibition in
Ruth Bader Ginsberg in the lower
Australia in December of 2018, “A
east side, NYC.
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