Muswell Hill
Muswell Hill is a beautiful place to live. The architecture, much of it still standing in the vision it was built, gives the area a character untypical of a London suburb. The views over central London, on a clear day, stretch for as far as eye can see. Within this supplement you’ll learn about the history of our ‘village’ and also read about the darker aspects of the area. It’s full of facts and information that you never knew about Muswell Hill. So delve right in!
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 1
15/9/08 13:47:09
Back in the day... Muswell Hill Circa 8,992 BC
Ice going!
What’s in a name?
You could say that Muswell Hill first came to be during the ice age. Vast glaciers, that for thousands of years had shaped and moulded the earth, had reached as far north as Thames Valley (all the way from the North Pole). As the Earth warmed, the glaciers withdrew towards the pole, leaving in its retreat large boulders, debris and massive amounts of granite rock, sculpting Muswell Hill into the steep hill it’s famous for.
Muswell Hill is believed to have taken its name from a spring, local to area, called the ‘Mossy Well’. At the time, this spring was believed to have astonishing healing powers - that those who drunk from the well were miraculously cured from their disease. A Scottish King, passing through the area, was cured of his ailments after taking water from the well, the news spread and the area became legendary.
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 2
15/9/08 13:47:13
James Edmondson Architectural mastermind of Muswell Hill and keen cyclist
Did you know? During the Second World War, 214 civilians were killed and about 1,290 injured. Over 80 per cent of the houses were destroyed or damaged.
In 1908 there were 17 private schools in Muswell Hill, but only two state or public schools: a junior school and nursery.
So it begins... Muswell Hill, as we know it today, was born in 1896 with a murder. Mr Henry Smith was a wealthy widower who lived in, what is now, Burlington Road. He was found bound and gagged, brutally killed by burglars. News of this murder spread quickly and caught the attention of property developer, James Edmondson, who identified the Muswell Hill area as a perfect place to build on. So impressed by its natural beauty, Edmondson bought up the local area and began building the houses and streets we walk around in today. The two burglars responsible Henry Smith’s death were caught, tried and hung. James Edmondson’s unique architecture helped give Muswell Hill its character. He designed many of the streets in the area including the Broadway itself. He also built some of the most prestigious streets in Muswell Hill: Hillfield Park, the Elms, Wellfield, and North Lodge. Edmondson also created the, now demolished, Athenaeum, a classical building with two domed towers and pillars at the front. It was used for many things including the Muswell Hill Parliament, an all-male debating society that lasted until the 1950s. Unfortunately the Athenaeum was demolished in 1966 to make way for Sainsbury’s supermarket.
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 3
15/9/08 13:47:15
Muswell Hell The Highgate Vampire
The area supposedly has its own Vampire also. It is said that in medieval times, ‘the King Vampire of the Undead’, a nobleman of Wallachia (a historical region of Romania) was brought to area in the 18th century in a coffin. When he died, he was buried on the grounds that are now Highgate Cemetery. In the late 60s, people either visiting or passing the Cemetery saw sightings of a dark supernatural figure, and corpses of foxes, drained of blood, were found in the grounds.
Muswell kill Muswell Hill had its very own serial killer. Dennis Nilsen lived in the attic flat of 23, Cranley Gardens. He is known to have killed 15 men. His victims were students and the homeless. He took them back home and, after some heavy drinking, he strangled them until they were unconscious, and then drowned them in the bath or in a bucket. Nilsen attempted to dispose of the bodies by boiling the heads, hands, and feet to remove the flesh. He chopped the entrails into small pieces and flushed them down the toilet. He blocked the drains of the flats. A drain company was responding to the call out and it was then that the some of the remains were found. The company discovered the drain packed with a flesh-like substance. The drain inspector then called his supervisor, but no assessment was made until the next day, by which time the drain had been cleared. This aroused suspicions, and the police were called. Remaining traces of body tissue were found in the drain. When first questioned Nilsen claimed innocence, but quickly admitted murder when pressured by the police officers. Nilsen was tried at the Old Bailey and convicted of six murders and two attempted murders. He was sentenced to life imprisonment (25 years) on November 4, 1983. In November 2008 he will have served his full term and could be eligible for parole.
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 4
There was particular first hand account from a local accountant that created a particular commotion. When walking through the cemetery the man, who refused to be named for fear of ridicule, became lost. Calmly he looked for an exit when he suddenly became ‘hypnotized by ‘something’. Behind him was a ‘dark spectre swinging around’ who aimed to cause him physical harm. The man was unable to move or make a sound until, eventually, the ‘thing’ left. It took the man many minutes to regain control of his body, but was left convinced that he’d been victim of some sort of attack, despite considering himself logical and sceptical by nature. Two men, Sean Manchester and David Farrant, suspected that a Vampire might have been awoken – although neither used those exact terms. Manchester claimed that Satanists had aided the resurrection and the only way to rid the cemetery of the evil force would be to find the resting place of the vampire, drive a stake through it’s chest, remove the head and burn the corpse – all of which was, and remains, illegal. By now the Highgate Vampire was receiving worldwide press and both Manchester’s and Farrant’s attempts to ‘deal’ with the spectre were being thwarted by police,. However there have been reports of charred remains being found in the catacombs of the cemetery suggesting some success. To this day sightings of a gloomy dark figure continue to be reported. Mwahaha!
15/9/08 13:47:17
Did you know? One of the locations of Bram Stoker’s Dracula was set in Highgate Cemetery. Professor Van Helsing and Johnathan Harker break into the cemetery at night to stake Harker’s vampire wife. As well as harbouring serial killers, Cranley Gardens was a riverbed two hundred years ago. Despite the romanticism that clouds the image of Medieval Knights, in reality ‘if a Knight met a maid unprotected on the road he raped her’ according to historian S.J. Madge (The Early Records of Harringay alias Hornsey).
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 5
15/9/08 13:47:19
A few of our favourite things... “
I like coming to Muswell Hill because there are lots of things for young people to do, like Exposure, ice skating and shopping.
”
Khashawna Burton, 16, works in Muswell Hill
“
There’s a lot to like about Muswell Hill. It’s a lovely place that has a great atmosphere. People are generally friendly, although some can be a bit selfimportant! I love the Odeon Cinema’s art deco look. I also like how the Athenaeum (a grand pillared building that looked as if it was built by the Romans, complete with its own two domed towers), was smashed down to build flats and a Sainsbury’s. Excellent work.
”
Gary Flavell, 26, Muswell Hill resident
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 6
“
My favourite thing about Muswell Hill is that there is no underground station here, so it is a little enclave away from the busy public transport systems of Greater London
”
Peter Thompson, 71, Muswell Hill resident
15/9/08 13:47:21
“
I love Muswell Hill. It has a lovely feel to it, the people, the places, the shops (not that I go shopping) and restaurants (I like to eat though). There’s something romantic about being on top of a hill. In fact, when I wrote a novel, I had my hero living here for that reason. I think this place is a little mystical actually - I think there must be ley lines passing through here that the ancient druids put down. And the most important thing - I almost forgot. Muswell Hill is the home of Exposure. And it doesn’t get better than that! Andreas Koumi, 43, Manager of Exposure
”
Did you know?
The Kinks come from Muswell Hill; their first album was called Muswell Hillbillies. Carl Barat of Dirty Pretty Things, and formally The Libertines - lives in Muswell Hill. Johnny Borrell, of Razorlight, apparently lives here also. The Romans once lived here, leaving coins and pottery under Muswell Hill Road. Muswell Hill is mentioned in lots of books and songs, and on TV:
“
Muswell Hill has a seaside town feel to it – the parade of little boutiques and dainty coffee shops are lovely. The panoramic views over London turn the back streets into beautiful places. Being in the green belt of London makes it relaxing and chilled out. It certainly has an excellent charm about it. Amelia Dillingham, 25, Muswell Hill resident
t
”
• Madness mention Muswell Hill in their 1982 hit, “Driving In My Car”. • In the 6th episode of “That Mitchell and Webb Look”, Muswell Hill is referred to as a prospective area for house hunting. • During a stand-up round of “Mock the Week”, Ed Byrne mentioned that he used to live in Muswell Hill, and how although it is fairly central, nobody knows where it is. • In the famous sitcom Porridge, the main character, Fletch, is from Muswell Hill. • Anthony Horowitz also mentions Muswell Hill in his book “Horowitz Horror”.
t
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 7
15/9/08 13:47:23
Muswell Hill has been home to award-winning Exposure magazine for the past ten years. Based at the Muswell Hill Centre, Exposure has grown from a youth magazine into a fully fledged youth media charity giving young people the opportunity to learn different media skills including graphic design, film-making and journalism.
Young people at Exposure, Haringey’s award-winning youth media charity, produced this booklet, with help from books published by local author and historian, Ken Gay. The following young people contributed in the production of this supplement:
From left.
Eliot Scott-Faulkner, Lara Lindo, Tutku Erbil, Alex Robson
From left.
Nicholas May, Khashawna Burton, Brayan Vargas, Camila Lopes
This project was funded through the Muswell Hill Area Assembly ‘Making the Difference’ programme.
Under Exp (Muswell Hill)amended.indd 8
15/9/08 13:47:24