Off the Chain

DINING Off the Chain

From pubs with creative cuisine to white-tablecloth dining rooms in historic buildings, Gwinnett has plenty to offer in the way of interesting, independently owned restaurants

BY LIA PICARD

Bottles and Bones

o disrespect to national chain restaurants, but if N you assume that’s all you’ll find in Gwinnett, you’re overdue for a visit to this part of the ’burbs. Some of the county’s indie eateries are new; others are iconic. Some are nestled in quaint historic downtowns, while others are tucked in nondescript strip malls. Here is just a small sample of only-in-Gwinnett dining offerings.

Got Beef?

Carnivores will find happiness at recently opened Bottles and Bones in downtown Suwanee. The chophouse eschews tradition with its light and airy design featuring an open kitchen and modern decor. Bring a date and share the dry-aged porterhouse for two, available on Friday and Saturday. If you relish classic confines, head to Frankie’s The Steakhouse in Duluth, where the atmosphere harkens back to Hollywood restaurants of the 1950s and 1960s. On the menu, steaks share top billing with Italian specialties like bone-in veal parmigiana.

Local Republic

Brunch Apothecary Epicurean Cafe

Local Republic

What’s Old Is New Again

Care for a side of historic charm? At Local Republic in Lawrenceville, diners can enjoy the gastropub’s famous burgers inside an industrial-chic, two-story space with bones that date back to the nineteenth century. Duluth’s Epicurean Cafe resides in the circa-1897 Knox House—home of the city’s first mayor—on the town green. Here, diners savor upscale American fare like herbed lamb chops or fried green tomatoes with warm brie and candied pecans.

Nestled among turn-of-the-century buildings in downtown Buford, Aqua Terra puts a bohemian spin on fine dining, with local art enlivening rustic walls and global influences accenting traditional dishes (try the seared scallops with orecchiette and a mushroom-truffle sauce). At Brunch Apothecary in Dacula, build your own biscuit or order elevated versions of classics (like the Pork Belly Benedict) inside the 1905 former home of a physician— hence the restaurant’s name.

Parkside District Seafood and Meats

Thoroughly Modern

With its gleaming decor and farm-to-table menu, Parkside District Seafood and Meats in Lawrenceville feels decidedly of-the-moment. Specialties include the fra diavolo mafaldine (seafood pasta in a spicy white wine sauce) and a grilled pork chop in an apple cider brine. Inspired cocktails and hand-picked craft beers and wines will make any meal feel like a celebration.

In Peachtree Corners, Pub Ten is casual, but the food is creative. How about Korean pulled brisket nachos with wonton chips, or Southern salmon with a sweet-tea glaze served over grits? Located across the street from the Forum on Peachtree Parkway, it’s the perfect stop for a post-shopping lunch.

Local Republic

Singular Sensation

For 35 years, Kurt’s Euro Bistro in Duluth has dished out top-notch European cuisine with a German accent. Crave-worthy treats include the Swiss cheese fondue (bring a friend or two for this one), the classic wienerschnitzel (breaded veal cutlet), and smoked pork chops. No meal is complete without an order of the bananas foster, flambéed tableside. The covered patio is the perfect place to expand your knowledge of German and Belgian beer.

Kurt's Euro Bistro Uncle Jack's Meat House

Awesome Imports

Two concepts from opposite coasts find a home in Gwinnett

Uncle Jack’s Meat House started in Astoria, New York, the brainchild of Willie Degel, host of Food Network’s Restaurant Stakeout. The contemporary steakhouse has an outpost in Duluth and another on the way in Peachtree Corners. Don’t miss the smoked bacon with peanut butter dipping sauce. California-based Lazy Dog brings a Rocky Mountain vibe to Peachtree Corners. The restaurant serves up comfort food in a lodge-inspired space that tempts you to sit and stay awhile.