KATEGNA ETHIOPIAN: BEYOND CLASSIC Spotlight

Tucked into an unassuming strip of shops on Buford Highway, Kategna Ethiopian is a culinary gem. The owner, Nani Desta, is not only a master of Ethiopian cooking in general but of recipes passed down from her mother, a well-known cook in Ethiopia. Berbere, the classic spice blend that gives so much of the region’s cuisine its distinct flavor profile, gets an added dash of magic, courtesy of Desta’s mother’s secret blend. You’ll taste it in dishes like Kategna’s delectable Doro Wat, Ethiopia’s signature stew of chicken, onion, garlic, ginger, and the traditional berbere, finished with spiced butter and served with boiled egg and house-made cottage cheese.

Desta is also known for her spongy injera bread, which she makes entirely with teff flour rather than the mix of flours favored by many Ethiopian restaurants. Its slightly firmer structure holds up better under heavier dishes and showcases their flavors more fully…whether it’s a bowl of vegan Misir Wat red split lentils sautéed in rich berbere sauce with garlic, onion, and ginger or a sizzling plate of prime short ribs marinated in Kategna’s house-made sauce and sautéed with red onion, tomato, fresh garlic, and jalapeños. Every dish on the menu is crave-worthy, right down to the coffee, and the lunch specials are a must.

Buford’s international melting pot has too many standouts to count, but from the food to the friendliness, you’re missing out if you don’t make a trip to Kategna.