South Wales Directories - Twmbarlwm Articles 2018

Twmbarlwm’s Past Set in Stone A COUPLE OF RECENT events just got me to thinking of some of the reasons why the Twmbarlwm Society exists.

First of all I saw a few posts on local social media groups where the author was posing the question “where is this?” and “what does it mean?” - referring to an unusual stone on top of a mountain. I was surprised to see in the comments how so few people had any idea of the location or their significance.

Secondly, the Society were generously given a pile of One of the “Boundary of Minerals” markers remaindered books for us to sell in aid of the Society’s on Mynydd Maen Common work. The book in question is “Western Valley Walks” by munitions during the Napoleonic wars and developed a tinlocal history enthusiast Ralph Collins. Some walks in the plating process used in the manufacture of Pontypool book are out of date due to the destruction of the forestry Japan-ware. Capel was also the Lord-Lieutenant of hereabouts, but much of it is still very relevant for the Monmouthshire at the time of the Chartist Riots. research and hard work that Ralph has put into it.

In the nineteenth century when gentlemen such as this Part of the Society’s remit is to raise awareness of the pair needed to legitimise their business interests they had beautiful landscape that’s on our doorstep and to to make application to parliament by way of a Private Act. investigate the history that has created it. We also wish to It was through this process that the Boundary of Minerals encourage people to get out there, walk the hills, and Act was passed in 1839 and the stones duly explore for themselves – and in the process erected to mark the areas which are defined in become fitter and better informed. the Act’s 53 page documentation - a copy of Ralph’s book describes various walks and which Ralph was lucky enough to be given explains where many of these mysterious access, at the Pontypool Parks Estate archive. stones can be found, and his in-depth Ralph’s book gives a fascinating insight into research throws light on why they are there. the two gentlemen involved in this intriguing story Ralph’s walk “The Stones of Mynydd Maen” is a and this is just one of several walks he describes in detail. great walk to illustrate this. It’s a fairly straight forward walk CTS often organise walks such as this and it is our of about 7.5 miles, it starts and finishes above intention to follow similar walks in the coming year so Hafodyrynys, there are no steep valley sides to climb, and please make sure you look out for announcements on our it takes in several of these engraved stones. The stones website and Facebook page. are in fact “Boundary of Minerals” markers.

We are very grateful for Ralph’s donation of these books There are similar stones on other local commons with and if you would like to obtain a copy of “Western Valley different inscriptions but the four encountered on this Walks” please visit our website for details. particular walk look a little like gravestones and are incised Terry Evans - Chairman, Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society on one side with the initials BH and on the other side with the initials CHL. The stones were placed to mark a Private Act of Parliament for effecting an Exchange of Mines and Lands between Sir Benjamin Hall, Capel Hanbury Leigh Esq. and others.

But who were these people and why were the stones erected on this rugged mountain top.

Sir Benjamin Hall was, of course, famous for lending his nickname “Big CTS members find one of the Ben” to the Great Bell installed at the mysterious stones on a group walk Palace of Westminster when he was First Commissioner of Works during CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick the rebuilding of the Houses of and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which Parliament in the 1830s. everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find Capel Hanbury Leigh was an your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the important member of the Hanbury mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website family, industrialists who increased and Facebook page for details – come and join us some time. their wealth by making iron and www.twmbarlwm.co.uk 4

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January 2018

A Busy Year Ahead for Twmbarlwm APART FROM THE MAJOR DAMAGE that continues to be done to our local landscape by the inconsiderate minority with their off-road vehicles there is also the everyday wear and tear of the pathways by the footfall of the innocent visitor to this popular beauty spot.

Cts often lobbies the local council and works with the commoners to ensure serious scarring is effectively dealt with and in the coming year Cts hopes to address the minor problems on our monthly volunteer days. a recent meeting with Cadw identified areas where, particularly on the scheduled ancient monument itself, people tend to wander from the path and so start to widen and erode the path with their continual footfall. We will be effecting repairs to these areas with seeded matting and soil or rock infill.

With some repairs it may be necessary to cordon off the area to allow the repair time to establish – it may look unsightly for a short while but the benefits will soon become apparent. so please be considerate if you come across these repairs and also be aware of any damage you may be unwittingly creating yourself.

We’ve already got a long list of work for the coming year and a short list of volunteers so if you fancy helping out a little, get in touch or watch our website for announcements of workdays planned.

A pathway repair done around the trig point 18 months ago

CTS meet at the car park below twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys rFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details – come and join us some time.

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Any Road Up… It’s nearly that tIme of year again when all roads lead to twmbarlwm. the 30th of march is Good Friday and that’s when, according to local tradition, people from miles around come to trek to the summit of the mountain like many generations before them have done.

We at the twmbarlwm society saw that the tradition was starting to wane a little and ten years ago you would only see a couple of dozen people up there on the day. We, therefore, hijacked the idea a few years ago and made it our own with “The Hot-CrossBun Walk” – and nowadays there is likely to be a few hundred people making the trek to the top. there are many different routes you can take, some more arduous than others, and everyone has their own favourite route – you can even get most of the way there by car, but that’s cheating. a few different routes are described on our website.

Cts organises a group walk, leaving from the stony Bridge, Pontymister, that takes a direct route straight up the hill through ty-sign, onto mountain road and so on to twmbarlwm. not the most picturesque to start with but it is faithful to the route that pilgrims may have taken centuries ago on their way from llantarnam to Penrhys. the Friends of Cwmcarn Forest Drive will be leading a group from the Cwmcarn Visitor Centre and there will be other organised groups from Cwmbran – please visit our website for more details of the organised events.

We also want to encourage as many other groups as possible to organise their own walk and use the occasion to raise the profile of their organisation (carry a flag to let us know who you are) - get in touch with us and we will include your details on our website. most people still like to make their own way up the tump by their preferred route just like their parents and grandparents did before them. We’ll be happy to see you however you get there – it’s always a great family day out and Cts distributes hot cross buns to everyone who makes the climb (on a first come first served basis).

Terry Evans - Chairman, Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society

march/april 2018

Twmbarlwm Forest Walks need Clarity Main photo: Brash covered footpaths leave them unusable for many months.

Right: A sign warns cyclists of “live work” in the Cwmcarn Forest but does not prohibit entry - yet PRoWs remain closed to walkers far too long.

READERS OF THIS COLUMN have become aware of the work of the Twmbarlwm Society, such as litterpicking, fence and path repairs and our struggles against off-roaders. But how many realise that CTS campaigns on many issues that have an immediate effect on the wider landscape of the mountain? Our members work continuously to lobby local authorities and government departments to get the best for our environment.

One such campaign concerns the actions of Natural Resources Wales (NRW) precipitated by Phytophthora Ramorum (aka Larch disease) that has affected forestry throughout the UK and in particular, south-east Wales.

Clearing the diseased trees in the lower Sirhowy and Ebbw Valleys has had a major impact on the landscape.

The harvesting process has taken longer than elsewhere due to the steep, and therefore, tricky terrain, which has meant that every tree has to be felled by hand and then winched up to forest tracks. Locals have, for the most part, been understanding about the length of time the forest paths have been closed, but there should be an expectation of professionalism and balance from NRW. With felling on Machen, the Gwyddon Valley, Mynyddislwyn, and the Cwmcarn Forests around Twmbarlwm, occurring within a relatively short space of time, walking routes have been substantially reduced. NRW has the right to close forestry tracks without consultation. However, permission must be sought to close public rights of way (PRoW). Initially permission can be granted by the local authority for up to six months. If NRW needs longer it must apply for an extension. If a short extension is needed, because of the magnitude of the exercise, it is understandable that the correct procedure isn’t always followed. However, public rights of way have been closed in some areas for substantially longer than six months.

There is more than one reason for this. NRW tends to apply to close PRoWs well before contractors are ready to move to that particular area.

For instance, Restricted Byway 189 in the Nant Carn Valley has been closed since December 2017, but at the beginning of March 2018 not only were there no WARNING posters advising visitors of the closure, no work had started on the byway. It is highly unlikely that NRW will meet the six month deadline for reopening the byway at the end of May. This is just one example, but it is far from an isolated incident.

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Another reason for the extended closure of PRoWs is that NRW appears not to check that contractors have cleared the route of the brash generated by the harvesting process. It is impossible to find the line of a right of way when it is covered in brash and it would be dangerous to try to negotiate a way through. Many walkers, including Ramblers members, moan about the problem but do not make a formal complaint. So the paths can stay “closed” for a very long time. The route may be legally open but that’s no comfort when it is impossible to use it.

Additionally, extra forestry roads need to be installed to extract the felled timber and in doing so PRoWs are compromised. Unfortunately, there seems to be little attempt to reinstate many of the rights of way and thus although they still legally exist, they are in fact unusable.

NRW recently sent out a request that walkers obey the WARNING signs and not enter a prohibited area, but when someone is on a planned 8 mile walk and they come across a WARNING sign, there is often no choice but to carry on. Dragging a group back up a steep incline and extending the walk by a few more miles is just not possible, especially when the walkers are looking forward to the final stretch. Walking groups have to plan their programme in advance. It is an impossible task when information is non-existent or significantly out of date or maybe even totally incorrect.

The public expect professionalism from a government body, and we expect the same level of commitment to different types of users. NRW expects members of the public to play fair with them, but maybe NRW should lead by example.

Maggie Thomas, CTS Trustee and Correspondent for the Open Spaces Society for Caerphilly and Torfaen County Boroughs

CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details.

www.twmbarlwm.co.uk April/May 2018

Drone Survey to Reveal Twmbarlwm Secrets?

This image is taken from a digital 3D model that was created from over 300 hi-resolution individual images. It can be viewed online at https://skfb.ly/6yASY where you can explore the whole area in 360º simulation.

Almost every time I meet a new visitor to Twmbarlwm they invariably ask “What is it, exactly?”. However, it seems there is no definitive answer, as every expert has their own opinion or interpretation of the evidence put before them. The Twmbarlwm Society has now joined the debate and have started a project that may reveal some of the secrets of the ‘Twmp’.

Working with and taking advice from Cadw, the historic environment service of the Welsh Government, our aim is to use modern archaeological methods to prepare data in more detail than has ever been done before. All data and results collected will be published and made freely available for expert analysis.

To start with we commissioned a photographic Drone Survey and, eventually the project will involve a geo-phys survey, lidar and palaeoenvironmental (boring core samples) surveys.

So it was that on a beautiful sunny day in April, archaeologist and drone-operator, Mark Walters, met with CTS members on Twmbarlwm. He did several drone flights around the mountain top. The first flight worked to a precise grid, taking over 300 hi-res photos vertically over

Just one of the spectacular shots of the motte on Twmbarlwm with a hazy Risca below

Twmbarlwm Hillfort and Motte Castle

by Mark Walters on Sketchfab

pre-defined points. These images look fairly innocuous when viewed alone, but they were later processed to create an accurate 3D model that gives an astounding 360º tour around the ancient monument.

As well as the photo-realistic rendition of the 3D model Mark also created a digital surface model (shown above).

It has been optimised to accentuate the earthworks and it makes details in the ramparts like the gaps, quarry hollows etc. clearer for general viewing, discussion and interpretation. The online model has been annotated with points of interest and experts can explore the model to add their own opinion about the sequence of earthworks visible.

Another flight took detail photos of the motte (the tump) and the whole of the surrounding ditch – these remarkable shots give you angles of view you’ll never normally see.

Hi-definition videos of the whole area were also shot and we also did a quick flight over the Bronze Age mound that is just to the south east of Twmbarlwm. These revealed interesting areas that we hope to include in future research.

The initial results from the drone survey can be seen on our website and there are also links to the 3D model and videos.

There’s not enough room in this article to reveal what the experts have said so far but we will publish all our findings in due course.

In the autumn the experts involved in the project will give an overview of their findings in an illustrated talk at Crosskeys RFC, and this will be followed by a field walk on the mountain where the physical features will be pointed out and explained – watch the website for the dates.

Note: If you have any expertise in this field and would like to get involved please get in touch.

Terry C. Evans, Chairman CTS

CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details. www.twmbarlwm.co.uk 4

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July/August 2018

Twmbarlwm Suffers in the Heat of 2018 This dramatic shot of the fires raging on The Medart, The Darren, Pegwyn-y-Bwlch and Twmbarlwm was taken by local designer/photographer Rhys Bennett.

The Motte of the hillfort on the summit of Twmbarlwm after the first wave of the fire had passed over it.

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Photo: Terry C. Evans ©

If you are of a certain age you probably still talk about the “Summer of 1976”, when the soaring temperatures lasted for weeks and water shortages made basic living conditions very difficult. No doubt you will now be changing your topic of conversation to the “Summer of 2018” Helicopter laden with water from Pantyreos reservoir and the terrible consequences of the heat and dry conditions on Cwmcarn Forest and Twmbarlwm mountain.

Back in 1976 there were no personal computers, no From the outset we were desperately worried about social media or digital cameras to record such events in the fires reaching the hill fort and for the first few days it so much detail. Nowadays it’s a different story. escaped any serious damage. Then the wind picked up and the fire spread over the summit. The heather and Within minutes of me seeing someone online asking wimberry covering of over half of the inner bailey the question “…can anyone smell smoke in was burnt down to the soil and all the motte Cwmcarn?” I heard the sound of fire engines itself was similarly affected. racing past my house. By the end of the afternoon the Facebook groups were full of Mother nature will, no doubt, restore the images of flames and smoke billowing from undergrowth in the fullness of time but what the mountain like an erupting volcano. damage has been done to the underlying archaeology we may never know.

Fire crews from miles around fought the fires 24/7 supported by helicopters collecting water from CTS accompanied Cadw inspectors on a tour of the Pantyreos reservoir to douse the flames. NRW were also site to assess the damage and to start formulating plans there digging out fire breaks and clearing brash from the on how to react to the devastation. path of the fires.

Apart from the bigger question of how to protect the The one thing that social media can be commended now fragile, exposed surface of the soil, much of the for was how it enabled the community to organise timberwork will need repairs which, no doubt, the society support for those fighting the fires. Many individuals, local will be involved with – watch our website for details. shops and cafés donated food and drinks to support the Once again – many thanks to all those who fought the crews during their long, arduous shifts. fires in an attempt to save our landscape, wildlife and We can’t thank all these people enough for their heritage. I’m sure that the summer of 2018 will be one commitment and hard work in trying to stop the fires that sticks in the memory for all the wrong reasons. from spreading – heroes one and all.

Terry C. Evans, Chairman CTS CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details.

www.twmbarlwm.co.uk September/October 2018

A group of mountain bikers wait as walkers climb over the stile on the forestry road below Twmbarlwm.

Walkers on the ridgeway of Mynydd Henllys - in the distance you can see the iconic “Twmp” of Twmbarlwm

Many members of Cymdeithas Twmbarlwm Society (CTS) are also members of other organisations of an environmental nature. Some organisations are started when there is a perceived injustice, which needs to be rectified and the best way to achieve that is by collective action. CTS and the Friends of Cwmcarn Forest Drive (FoCFD) are two such groups and where there is a need, the members of the two organisations often work together if they need to achieve the same goal.

Maybe there are other organisations who ought to consider working together to coexist in our ever-diminishing landscape.

Recently there was a comment posted on the FoCFD Facebook site from a cyclist, who asserted that he had the right to roam as much as anyone else.

Firstly, “The Right to Roam” applies to Scotland only. In England and Wales since the CRoW Act 2000 there has been the right of access on certain land. The rights apply to land called ‘access land’ and we are to be able to go on foot onto access land for open-air recreation.

Rights such as horse riding or riding a bicycle still apply on bridleways, restricted byways and byways open to all traffic that cross access land, but people must keep to the right of way.

Access land is: common land; land mapped by Natural Resources Wales as open country; and any type of land offered by its owner for use as access land (dedicated land). Common land is land registered under the Commons Registration Act 1965.

Open country is land that is wholly or predominantly mountain, moor, heath or down.

If there were equestrian rights on a common before the CRoW Act then those rights remain.

On an OS Explorer map Open access land (England & Wales) – you will notice areas that are shaded in yellow.

This is open access land and within this area you are free to roam on foot at will. Although there are footpaths and trails running across this land – you do not have to stick to them if you don’t want to. The boundary of the open access land is marked with a tan colour thicker line.

NRW forestry land is coloured a light green and is also 4

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is indicated with a boundary in a tan colour, thicker line.

NRW leases some land and this is not open access land. These areas are shaded a different colour green and are not bounded by a tan colour thicker line. A great deal of forestry near Cwmcarn such as Rhyswg and Gwyddon, is not open access land because it is only leased by NRW. In recent years NRW has created and allowed others to create cycle trails on its land.

In addition NRW seems to be more than happy for cyclists to use the wide forest roads, which have been created to allow the timber to be extracted. These roads are wide enough for walkers, equestrians and cyclists to co-exist happily. Where cycle tracks cross footpaths or bridleways, the cyclist must give way to walkers and equestrians.

It is vital that all users learn exactly what their access rights are. There is plenty of room for us all to coexist and enjoy our beautiful countryside if we all behave in a responsible manner.

Maggie Thomas, CTS Trustee and Correspondent for the Open Spaces Society for Caerphilly and Torfaen County Boroughs

CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details.

w w w. t w m b a r l w m . c o . u k November/December 2018

Photos: Terry C. Evans ©

Roaming Free On Twmbarlwm

Re-seeding & Re-growth of Twmbarlwm Another year has gone by and it was another busy year for the Society and probably an unforgettable one for Twmbarlwm and the surrounding area.

You all know that I’m referring to the wildfires that devastated vast areas of the Cwmcarn Forest and spread over the summit of Twmbarlwm causing extensive damage to the undergrowth and compromising the underlying archaeology.

The fires raged around Twmbarlwm for nearly two weeks and once it was over, CTS met on the mountain with field officers from Cadw to examine the damage.

Then with advice from CCBC’s ecologist and a Cadw appointed landscape engineer it was decided that in the short term it was vital to attempt to stabilise the surface by re-seeding as much of the damaged area as possible before severe winter weather did further damage to the landscape.

Therefore the society set about raising the necessary money, primarily from Cadw and Trustees of the Llanarth Estates, to pay for a specialised mix of native species grass seed.

With just three days before the proposed day to sow the seed we put a call out on the internet for volunteers to help with the sowing - so it was a marvellous surprise on 7th October when over 40 people turned up to help.

It was a glorious sunny day with just a small breeze perfect sowing weather - and we had the whole top of the mountain covered within three hours - it was a marvellous day and illustrates how the Twmp holds a unique place in the hearts of the local community.

We have kept our eye on the Twmp to check on progress since the re-seeding. Unfortunately, storm Callum whipped through the area just a couple of days after re-seeding, this did us no favours in giving the seed a chance to germinate. The burnt areas had a real battering from the heavy rain and strong winds, and areas that were fine ash and dust hardened into a solid clay consistency - not a good base for the grass seed.

Much of the seed was also swept off the crest of the surrounding ditch leaving a few bare patches. So for the first few weeks our efforts seemed to be futile.

Some of the re-seeding volunteers show great sowing technique on Twmbarlwm

Despite some horrendous autumn weather some areas are showing signs of regrowth

However, a month further on, I visited the mountain in early December and I could see more promising signs.

Now I’m no botanist, but even I could tell that there was plenty of evidence that our newly sown grass was starting to show through as well as some original, surviving grass stock – there are also new shoots of heather and wimberry coming up.

I await the experts’ verdict but I believe we did a satisfactory rescue job and expect more re-seeding will be necessary in the spring – so watch our website for announcements and come and join us next time.• CTS meet at the car park below Twmbarlwm’s summit for a litter pick and volunteer workday on the last Sunday of every month to which everyone is invited, it’s not all hard work and it’s a great opportunity to find your way around up there. We organise walks and other events up the mountain and at Crosskeys RFC throughout the year so watch our website and Facebook page for details.

w w w. t w m b a r l w m . c o . u k

Over 40 volunteers helped sow grass seed over the scorched areas of the mountain top.

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January 2019