Orlando Weekly Bite 2015

The UlTimaTe GUide To orlando’s Food scene i FREE 2015

A-A k i J A pA n E s E s u s h i & stEAkhousE

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CASUAL RESTAURANTS

Burgers, fried chicken, sandwiches

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CULINARY COCKTAILS

“Smokey Old Tom”

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LATIN RESTAURANTS

Cuban, Puerto Rican, Mexican, TexMex, Colombian, Peruvian

TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S 6

STAR GRAZING

Local notables share their favorite places to grab a bite

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ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Some specialize in pizza, some don’t

COFFEE, TEA & SWEETS

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STEAKHOUSES

Bakeries, pastries, ice cream, coffeehouses, teahouses

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YOUNG GUNS

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MODERN

A creative spin on the plate, with a focus on local ingredients and innovative technique

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CULINARY COCKTAILS

Five up-and-coming chefs who are drawing big notice in some of Orlando’s hottest kitchens

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TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS

Comfort-food classics given the deluxe treatment

“The Stalker”

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ASIAN RESTAURANTS

Chinese, Japanese, Sushi, Korean, Pan-Asian, Thai, Vietnamese

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SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS

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CULINARY COCKTAILS

“The Royal Palm”

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EUROPEAN RESTAURANTS

French, German, Polish, Russian, Spanish

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FOOD TO DRINK BY

Brew pubs, Irish pubs, sports bars, taprooms, wine bars

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CULINARY COCKTAILS

“Get Her to the Greek”

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HEALTHY RESTAURANTS

Vegan, vegetarian, plant-based, smoothies, juice bars

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MEDITERRANEAN

Greek, Turkish, Middle Eastern, Persian, Lebanese, Syrian

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INDIAN RESTAURANTS

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CULINARY COCKTAILS

“Strawberry Gin Jam”

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FOOD & DRINK FESTIVALS

Save the date! A calendar for foodies

CULINARY COCKTAILS

“Beet Not-feratu”

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BBQ RESTAURANTS

U N L E S S OT H E RW I S E N OT E D,

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Publisher Graham Jarrett Associate Publisher Leslie Egan Executive Editor Erin Sullivan EDITORIAL Editor Jessica Bryce Young Associate Editor Ashley Belanger Copy Editor Thaddeus McCollum Contributors Faiyaz Kara, Holly Kapherr, Christopher Kretzer Interns Haley Cannon, Luis Vazquez ADVERTISING Account Manager Candice Andrews Senior Account Exec Dan Winkler Retail Account Execs Jon Bowers, Matt Whiting, Scott Navarro, Candice Andrews MARkETING AND EVENTS Marketing and Events Director Brett Blake Promotions Manager Andreina Icaza Promotions Coordinator Rachel Hoyle Intern Emma Schledorn CREATIVE SERVICES Creative Services Director Adam McCabe Creative Services Manager Shelby Sloan Graphic Designers Christopher Kretzer, Michelle Dylan BUSINESS Manager Stacey Commer Office Assistant Alma Hill CIRCULATION Manager Keith Coville

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s EUCLID MEDIA GROUP Chief Executive Officer Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers Chris Keating, Michael Wagner Chief Financial Officer Brian Painley Human Resources Director Lisa Beilstein Digital Operations Coordinator Jaime Monzon

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Orlando Weekly Inc. 16 W. Pine St. Orlando, FL 32801 orlandoweekly.com Phone 407-377-0400 Fax 407-377-0420 Orlando Weekly is published every week by Euclid Media Group Verified Audit Member Orlando Distribution BITE magazine is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader.

ALL ISSUE PHOTOGRAPHY

BY ROBERT BARTLETT

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EDITOR’S LETTER: That first BITE

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still remember the first time I ate something in a restaurant that made me understand that food could be more than just fuel. It was a vegetable plate at Mary Sue Milliken and Susan

Feniger’s eclectic Los Angeles restaurant CITY — a sort of thali sampler comprising regional Thai, Mexican and Indian flavors. I can still recall the flavor and texture of the eggplant, a vegetable I had never looked at with anything but loathing before, and since then a lifelong favorite.

I also remember the first thing I ever cooked on the stove. A late bloomer who finally realized I couldn’t live on takeout forever, I bought the prettiest box of pasta (De Cecco, of course) at Ralphs along with all the ingredients for the recipe printed on the side. To this day, that linguine with tuna, olives and capers is one of the few things I can cook without a recipe – without even thinking, really – and it’s my go-to comfort food.

These early experiences are ADVerTIsers PrINTeD IN MAGENTA

$$$$ $$$$ $$$$ $$$$

question from a slightly different angle (don’t ever try to put chefs in a box), but all of them shared memories of delicious moments.

Some chefs learn to cook at their grandmother’s knee, like Peperoncino’s Barbara Alfano; some get intrigued by a television chef, like Kappo’s Lordfer Lalicon. Some, like Marc Kusche of Hamilton’s Kitchen, fall under the spell of a particular flavor or two in childhood and find themselves still exploring it years later, as professional chefs.

We also spoke to five up-and-coming chefs around town (page 42) that Orlando diners should keep an eye on. Wherever they are, great food is sure to be there as well. And we make note of the culinary cocktail trend: The boundaries between mixology and mise en place have blurred as restaurant bars mix kitchen-crafted ingredients into their cocktails. Finally, we included a calendar of annual food and drink events, so you can plan your year.

I hope you enjoy reading this celebration of Orlando’s dining scene as much as we enjoyed putting it together.

$10 or less

personalities in the kitchen, trivial

Happy eating,

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as they may seem at the time. So

$15-25

this year, we asked chefs about the

Jessica Bryce Young

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**The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree.

Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person.

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foundational to our palates and our

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dish that “made” them — made them serious eaters, made them want to cook, or made them a lot of money. Everyone answered the

Copyright notice: The entire contents of BITE and Orlando Weekly are copyright 2015 by Euclid Media Group LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. Publisher does not assume any liability for unsolicited manuscripts, materials, or other content. Any submission must include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. All editorial, advertising, and business correspondence should be mailed to the address listed in the masthead, left.

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STAR GRAZING Local notables share their favorite places to grab a bite

Sandy Bitman, owner, Park Ave CDs: “It’s often tough to find a good place to eat past 10 p.m. in our town. So, when I have to, I head over to Santiago’s Bodega over on Virginia or to Scratch in Winter Park.

It’s nice to roll in late and grab some good food in a comfortable atmosphere without the pressure of feeling rushed.

“My favorite vegan/vegetarian sandwiches: Ethos’ ‘What’s the Dilly, Philly?’ is an old standby that never lets me down. Stardust’s ‘No Depression’ (also a great Uncle Tupelo album) with tempeh is filling and tasty. Finally, newcomer Pig Floyd’s ‘Big Floyd’ with tofu is sloppy, stacked with coleslaw and finger-licking good.

“My favorite neighborhood haunts: BB Junction off of Fairbanks is an easy place to grab a creative burger along with a cold craft beer. And the Strand off of Mills is a welcome addition, a diner with great choices whose menu flexes depending on the season.”

Patrick and Holly Kahn, owners and curators, Snap! Space gallery: “We loved having discovered the Pharmacy when it was still a best-kept secret, but it is a bit far away. We enjoy Armando’s street-side dining, with authentic Italian food (and waiters), and Prato for its buzzing New York feel – other notables are the cocktails at the Courtesy Bar, appetizers at Txokos, tapas at Santiago’s Bodega, and the never-disappointing Ravenous Pig. In our immediate neighborhood we often frequent the Strand, Anh Hong and Dandelion.”

Emily Ellyn, the Retro Rad Chef and Food Network television personality: “This is an exciting time in Orlando, do I really have to pick my favorites?? Pig Floyd and Black Bean Deli are top picks for house-made fare, served fast-casual. RusTeak in College Park: Order the mussels. Great wine too! The Rusty Spoon is great for lunch. It’s the only place my vegetarian boyfriend will eat a burger. Chef Kevin Fonzo of K in College Park can fork-feed me his farm-to-table eats any day of the week. Cask & Larder has the best brunch in town. Curbside Chef is my favorite food-truck fix. I find Sushi Pop’s entrées intriguing and yummy. Need a new Mexican spot? Satisfying food and tasty margaritas at El Patron in Lake Buena Vista!

“This list is making me hungry! Should I keep going, or wait to anonymously pencil in my favorites for Orlando Weekly’s Best of Orlando poll?!”

“On a recent date night, Kamrin and I ventured out to the Ritz to eat at Highball & Harvest. We were super impressed with chef Mark Jeffers’ menu, and everything we ordered was really unique and delicious. The Southern spreads and house-made jerky were a great way to start the meal. We both ordered fish, and the chef’s Port Orange upbringing and Carolina-inspired flavors made for two tasty entrées.

After capping it all off with the baby donuts with hazelnut spread and cappuccino ice cream, we were already planning our return visit. Well worth the drive.”

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John Morgan, attorney at Morgan & Morgan: “Enzo’s is the bomb. It’s where we celebrate!”

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRISTOPHER KRETZER

John and Kamrin Rife, founder-owner and chief financial officer, East End Market:

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRISTOPHER KRETZER

:

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Coffee, tea & SWEETS

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ilk District hangout Se7enbites might be known for nostalgic baked goods and Southern breakfasts but, says pastry chef and owner Trina GregoryPropst, “I’m most proud of our salted caramel dark chocolate pecan pie.” It’s the pie that started it all for Propst, but perfecting her signature item put the affable, icy-pawed patissière through the wringer.

Testing for the filling and the crust spanned more than three months, during which time she became all too familiar with the science of baking. The correct ratios of butter to salt to sugar, as well as the effects of temperature and rest times, all were learned on the fly. The fact that she was still in pastry school also added to the challenge.

“The salted caramel trials were horrible,” she says half-jokingly, but when it all came together for the first time, Propst knew she had something special in her hands, and that she had found her passion. Se7enbites regulars have taken to calling Propst the “Magical Pie Lady,” and with good reason. Her baked goods put you under a spell, and sweet surrender is but a bite away.

Se7enbites, 207 N. Primrose Drive, 407-203-0727; $$

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= 2014 Best of Orlando winner

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All From Scratch 2781 Wrights Road, Oviedo, 407-8789591, allfromscratchbakery.com; $$

Bubbles & Ice Dessert Bar A poppy-bright explosion of primary colors houses a trove of sweets, primarily of the Asian varieties – boba milk teas, slushes, some of the best shaved snow in town – along with fruit-topped waffles and fried cheesecake. Try the “Double YinYang,” a mega-refreshing coffee-tea combo.

813 N. Mills Ave, 407-895-8833; $

Backhaus It means “bakehouse” in German, so delete any mental images of a backyard shack. Backhaus replaces the Orlando outpost of Yalaha Bakery briefly sited here on Orange Avenue, and offers a cornucopia of true traditional German breads, pretzels, and sausages and cured meats – not to mention a mouth-watering array of decadent sweet pastries. 1213 N. Orange Ave., 321-800-5212; $$

Blue Bird Bake Shop R Gourmet butter and fresh fruit are among the superior ingredients the bakers at Blue Bird use in their amazing cupcakes, baked fresh in small batches every day. In addition to traditional faves, this shop also creates unique flavors: Try the chocolate Guinness or vanilla black pepper for a change of pace. 3122 Corrine Drive, 407-228-3822; $

Downtown Credo Espresso drinks (lattes, macchiato, cappuccino), pour-overs and straightup drip coffee are served in a room as simple as the menu, with clean lines, comfortable modern furniture and just enough embellishment to make the space appealing. The pay-what-youwill model is intriguing, and it seems to be working out for them. 706 W. Smith St., 407-250-4888; $

Drunken Monkey Coffee Bar R Meat, though present on the menu, takes a backseat to healthy vegan and vegetarian fare at this urban coffeehouse. Of note: liquid-gold soups and hearty vegetarian burritos. Chewy Anzac biscuits partner well with the Mojo Jojo, a coffee drink with cinnamon and sweetened condensed milk.

444 N. Bumby Ave., 407-893-4994; $

Jeremiah’s Original Italian Ice R It’s like a sorbet, only more slushy. It’s not a snow cone, although it does come in a cup, in not-too-sweet and refreshing flavors such as mango, kiwi, tangerine, watermelon, red raspberry and passionfruit. Multiple locations, jeremiahsice.com; $

Lineage Coffee Roasting R A vanguard member of the third-wave coffee movement popping up around Orlando, Lineage is meticulous about

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COFFEE, TEA & SWEETS every detail in the cup, from how the bean is processed, to their own roasting methods, to the brew technique best for that bean: pour-over, French press or espresso. East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, 407-205-8096; $$

P Is for Pie Bake Shop Owner-baker Tara Gould is a staunch “from-scratch” purist, so you won’t find Crisco, gelatin or any processed foods here. What you will find is strawberry-raspberry cobbler, chocolate peanut butter sea salt cuties, light and airy banana cream Mason jar pies, and Gould’s signature flaky-crust caramel pecan hand pies – all guaranteed to tug on your Southern heartstrings.

2806 Corrine Drive, 407-745-4743; $$

Pastry-ology This Orlando bakery makes custom cookies designed for any occasion and with pretty much any design imaginable. Want cookies shaped and decorated to look like the Eiffel Tower? They can do that. Want a cookie with your logo on it to send to clients? They can do that, too.

They’ll also make cake pops, cupcakes and other sweet treats for corporate events, parties, weddings and more.

407-579-5532; pastry-ology.com; $$

The Pop Parlour A rotating menu of flavors including mimosa, coconut-rum-chocolate, and Nutella with Cigar City Maduro Brown Ale makes it clear that the popcrafters here take fun seriously, and their commitment to organic and local ingredients where possible bears that out. 431 E. Central Blvd., 321-348-7677; $

The Soda Fountain Ice Cream R The vibe at this ice cream store is undoubtedly eclectic, and that’s precisely the intent of owners Brad and Christina Cowherd (who also own Infusion Tea). Patrons are encouraged to draw on the chalkboard walls as they enjoy their sundaes, floats, shakes and egg creams. 2525 Edgewater Drive, 407-540-1006; $

Sugarbuzz Dezert Co. Cookies, pies, cupcakes, specialty cakes (such as chocolate raspberry cream cheese cake, yum) and an entire menu of cheesecakes are available at this College Park bakery. If you’ve got something special in mind, call 72 hours in advance, because everything is baked fresh. 4339 Edgewater Drive, 407-929-6542; $

Velo Creek Bike & Brew This specialty store sells bicycles and cycling gear, as well as coffee.

Get your Gary Fisher tuned up while sipping a mocha or a salted-caramel latte. This shop uses fair trade, sustainable and organic ingredients whenever possible. 93 Alafaya Woods Blvd., 407-603-4075; $

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MODERN RESTAURANTS

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ustin Haney has been riding a high ever since Scratch opened its doors back in 2013. His dishes have garnered attention and set a competitive standard for restaurants in the area, but the dish that started it all for him was one he used as a 17-year-old in Virginia Beach to impress his also-17-year-old girlfriend.

“It was chicken pancetta alfredo – sautéed chicken, wilted spinach, rendered pancetta and ParmigianoReggiano cream, served with penne. I know … pretty lame,” he grins. “It was, however, the first complete dish I learned all the components of, and the first dish I felt confident enough to replicate outside of work.”

Haney, naturally, has a nostalgic appreciation for the dish – that 17-year-old girlfriend is now his better half, and on occasion, when the mood strikes, he’ll bust it out for old time’s sake.

“The dish is, at best, very elementary, but it taught me how to replicate mise en place, how to adjust and control variables, and how to see a dish through to its completion without supervision.” While Haney’s sure-shot chicken pancetta alfredo will never appear on Scratch’s menu, that “lame dish” did teach him another valuable lesson – that cooking can please, and even impress.

Scratch, 223 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-325-5165; $$

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DusTIN HANEY SCRATCH R

= 2014 Best of Orlando winner

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MODERN Artisan’s Table Chef Scott Copeland applies culinary strokes of fancy to such dishes as braised lamb shank with roasted eggplant and feta whipped potatoes and chilaquiles-style dark-meat chicken with hominy and crème fraîche. Consider the chocolate tart with kettle potato-chip crust to end, though an affogato might be more your style. Stiff cocktails are also artistically crafted. 22 E. Pine St., 407-730-7499; $$$

Cask & Larder R With a commitment to nose-to-tail cookery and a fine selection of accessible-but-atypical cuts, this “Southern public house” has already reached legendary status. C&L serves terrific nouveau-Southern fare – grilled lamb heart, ethereal pork belly, foie gras-stuffed quail and a country-ham tasting flight, to name just a few. Pair your meal with a craft beer brewed in-house or a hand-built craft cocktail.

565 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 321-280-4200; $$$

Cress Restaurant R Beard award-nominated mathematician-turned-chef Hari Pulapaka has the formula for success: fusing traditional and multicultural approaches with organic ingredients. The

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delicately crisp roasted-vegetable bisteeya is beautifully executed; garlicky escargots are sublime; and the grouper tacos are worth the drive to DeLand. Wine service is creative and thoughtful. 103 W. Indiana Ave., DeLand, 386-734-3740; $$$

K Restaurant The restaurant tucked into a cozy bungalow reaches a grand level of food and service; chef and owner Kevin Fonzo (the “K”) creates dishes that are both simple and elegantly delicious, often using ingredients from the garden behind the kitchen. From salad to starter to main course, everything hits the right note, surpassing the restaurant’s already sterling reputation. 1710 Edgewater Drive, 407-872-2332; $$$

Kasa Restaurant & Raw Bar This boîte has plenty of substance to go along with its downtown swagger. Small plates, like crispy polenta cakes topped with adobo pork and messy Kobe brisket sliders, rule.

White fish ceviche with watermelon makes for a bracing sharing plate, and oysters from the raw bar are crisp and refreshing. Parking in the Plaza Garage validated for 90 minutes.

Open daily. 183 S. Orange Ave., 407-985-5272; $$

Luma on Park Foodies are hot for the innovative fare at this Park Avenue star. There’s a great wine selection and a creative cocktail menu, and the smaller plates encourage sharing. Or go for one of the fabulous seasonal entrees, such as duck breast with romanesco and blueberry compote. The atmosphere is lively, especially at the chef’s table.

290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-4111; $$$

The Ravenous Pig R The frills are as sophisticated as the fare at this Winter Park gastropub; diners swoon over the Gruyère biscuits. Starters like wild oysters with strawberry jam and crispy rice underscore creativity and talent in the kitchen, as do mains like boudinstuffed Texas quail served with haysmoked beets. Desserts are uniformly rich and rave-worthy. 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-2333; $$$

The Rusty Spoon Chef Kathleen Blake brings a locavore credo to the downtown core. The rustic menu focuses on locally farmed and raised ingredients, but not obsessively so. Best: tapenade-stuffed eggs, coffee-rubbed culotte steak and grown-up s’mores. There’s a focused selection of craft beers, wines and

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cocktails as well. 55 W. Church St., 407-401-8811; $$

Soco Thornton park Greg Richie’s imaginative take on Southern classics has made Soco one of downtown’s premier dining destinations, thanks to such renditions as cassoulet of duck confit with boiled peanuts, molasses-glazed hanger steak with smoked brisket hash browns, and hot-smoked cobia with buttermilk potato cakes. Those with a penchant for indulgent endings will appreciate oatmeal spice cake with a pink peppercorn whiskey syrup or house-made moon pies served with a vanilla RC Cola float. Open daily. 629 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-1800; $$$$

The Strand Cozy Mills 50 gem packs them in, thanks to a food-first ethic and dedication to local and seasonal sourcing.

Enjoy a craft brew with the roasted red snapper hash, a breakfast item available as a dinner appetizer. More substantial items of note include the fried Cornish hen with mustard mashed potatoes and wilted greens, as well as the grilled mahi atop roasted-vegetable tabouli. The olive oil cake with mascarpone cream is already a fan favorite. 807 N. Mills Ave., 407-920-7744; $$

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THE STALKER ARTISAN’s TABLE

What looks like a mild-mannered, possibly minty elixir turns out to have an unexpectedly savory twist. The punnily-named Stalker, served at downtown’s Artisan’s Table, throws the curveball of an assertive celery coulis into its otherwise straightforward recipe of vodka, lime and St. Germain elderflower liqueur. Topped with Fee Brothers rhubarb bitters, the cocktail catapults celery’s peppery, mineral-y flavor to the front of the palate.

22 E. Pine St., 407-730-7499; artisanstableorlando.com

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ASIAN RESTAURANTS

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ennifer Banagale, Mark Berdin and Lordfer Lalicon are a part of the New Wave of culinarians changing the restaurant landscape of our city. Kappo, their seven-seat restaurant at East End Market, is arguably Orlando’s finest Japanese eatery, but each of the trio made a uniquely different foray into the world of cooking.

Mark Berdin, Jennifer Banagale & Lordfer lalicon KAPPO R

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“One day, I stumbled upon an old, dusty copy of the Tassajara Bread Book in my friend’s parents’ closet,” recalls Banagale. “It taught the basics of baking bread from scratch and of how just three ingredients (water, yeast, flour) could be transformed into something so perfect. I was hooked after making my first loaf!” For Berdin, tasting ohitashi – vegetables soaked in dashi – got him hooked on cooking, Japanese cuisine specifically. “I was mesmerized how a light broth like dashi (kombu and bonito shavings) could elevate the flavors of the vegetables,” he says. And if it weren’t for Jamie Oliver’s Naked Chef series, Lalicon might have been doing chores all his life. When Oliver fashioned a chicken Cordon Bleu on one episode, a 16-year-old Lalicon felt an urge to make the dish for his friends. “As I cooked, they did my chores,” says Lalicon, “and after eating my cheesy chicken, they were astounded.” Lalicon made the gathering a regular occurrence, and why not? He got to practice his technique, and his famished friends did all the other work.

If there is a common element binding the trio’s experiences, it’s simplicity – be it in ingredients, technique or execution.

Kappo, 3201 Corrine Drive, facebook.com/kappoeastend; $$$

= 2014 Best of Orlando winner

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ASIAN

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A-aki Japanese Sushi and Steakhouse

Kiko Japanese Cuisine

Fresh sushi, as well as soups and noodle dishes, bento boxes (for lunch and dinner) and a hibachi menu round out the offerings at this Japanese eatery. Hibachi deals on offer every day from 4 to 6 p.m., as well as a sushi happy hour. 1400 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-888-9545; $$

Neighborhood sushi joint does everything right, from fresh cuts of sashimi to indulgent and thoroughly gratifying rolls. Specialty dishes like grilled-thensteamed “ginga” fish impress, as do the nearly 60 meatless options, from rolls to stir-fries. 110 S. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-5800; $$

Anh Hong R

KoyWan Hibachi Buffet

There are hundreds of items on the menu at this Mills 50 mainstay, where No. 146 – fried tofu stir-fried with lemongrass and chili – reigns supreme over the many vegetarian options that round out meat and seafood. There are salads, subs (banh mi) and various neon-colored surprises in the takeout refrigerator case. 1124 E. Colonial Drive, 407-999-2656; $

Bottomless appetites will find 15 kinds of sushi, steam tables full of familiar Chinese dishes and custom-grilled hibachi offerings, all for practically pocket change. The authenticity here isn’t what you’d find in the Asian restaurants crowding the Mills 50 district, but for some diners, quantity trumps quality; for them, this is a gold mine.

945 W. State Road 436, Altamonte Springs, 407-628-8866; $

Chuan Lu Garden R Chuan Lu employs plenty of fiery stimulants in their authentic, real-deal Sichuan fare. The cumin lamb and the lazi jiding (fried chicken bits) are both laced with tien tsin peppers and aromatic Sichuan peppercorns for a numb-spicy effect. Not ready to get the fire started? Stick with the Lanzhou-style beef noodle soup. 1101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-8966; $$

Hawkers Asian Street Fare R The sheer variety and low price point of the assorted dishes makes this hub of pan-Asian small plates a popular draw, but it’s better for snacking and drinking beer with a group than sitting down to a trad meal. The menu comprises an array of tiny, tasty Chinese, Malay, Viet and Indian dishes and the place packs ’em in, so call ahead or risk a wait. 1103 N. Mills Ave., 407-237-0606; $$

Magic Wok Pass on the American Chinese menu and ask for the bill of fare listing authentic Shanghainese dishes. The daring will want to dive into the plate of stinky tofu, while anyone would revel in a saucy bowl of pork belly and preserved Chinese greens. Noodle dishes like Shanghai-style rice cake and beef chow fun, a Cantonese specialty, are also worth sampling. 6700 Conroy Road, 407-522-8688; $$

Mamak Asian Street Food Mamak brings a semblance of Malaysia’s food-stall culture to Mills 50 with plenty of pan-Asian noodle soups, wok-fired delicacies and small plates. From beef bulgogi and cod in black bean sauce to char kway teow and kari mee, the dishes here are thoroughly gratifying. To end, sweet ice kacang is a cold comfort. 1231 E. Colonial Drive, 407-270-4688; $

Hotto Potto Fresh ingredients and genial service help make this Winter Park hot-pot joint an option for those looking for a change in their restaurant routine.

Meats aren’t too out of the ordinary, though live blue crab, lobster, shrimp and bass keep it interesting. Soup base and spice levels can be adjusted according to taste, and a wide array of house-made sauces seal the deal.

Open late Fridays and Saturdays.

3090 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-951-8028; $$

Kabooki Sushi Behind the city-slick mask sits a restaurant bent on a focused and serious approach. Chef Henry Moso gets creative while keeping theatrics to a minimum, whether plating sublimely fresh cuts of sashimi or seared escolar splashed with kimchi vinaigrette.

Moso knows sushi, but non-sushi dishes like crisp hamachi collar and tender wagyu yaki are also expertly rendered. 3122 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-3839; $$

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Ming’s Bistro Hard to spot, but well worth seeking out, Ming’s specializes in the a la “cart” scarfing extravaganza known as dim sum. Menu descriptions are terse, so be sure to ask your red-vested server about the ingredients. 1212 Woodward St., 407-898-9672; $

Noodles and Rice Cafe Noodles, be they hot, cold, soupy or stir-fried, are the, ahem, mein attraction at this Mills Avenue resto, so whether it’s ramen, udon, soba or lo mein that bubbles your bowl, find it all right here. Don’t overlook the Hong Kong style barbecue or the hot pot tables. It’s BYOB, but you’ll have to tithe to the chef. Open daily. 813 N. Mills Ave., 407-895-8833; $

P.F. Chang’s R With chic trappings and sophisticated service, this chain restaurant at Winter Park Village updates Chinese dining.

The innovative menu serves the traditionals alongside unique alternatives

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such as kung pao chicken-and-jicama tacos. 436 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-0188; $$

hour. 4898 New Broad St., 407-8988801; also 8031 Turkey Lake Road, 407-248-8888; $$

Pho 88 R

Shin Jung

Specializing in huge, weirdly addictive bowls of rice noodles and various cuts of beef submerged in delicately seasoned broth, Pho 88 is an Orlando tradition. They also serve stir-fries and rice-paper rolls – but the soup’s the thing. 730 N. Mills Ave., 407-8973488; also 9728 E. Colonial Drive, 407-930-7670; $

Exotic Korean cuisine served in an intimate and recently remodeled space. If you’re inexperienced with Korean cuisine, let the servers steer you. 1638 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-7345; $$

Pho Curry Ford Modest joint on Curry Ford Road serves dependable pho and other Viet staples. The hearty beef stew banh mi served with doughy French bread and an aromatic pho tai are both stellar.

A decent list of vegetarian items is offered, including fat tofu-filled spring rolls and taro-stuffed egg rolls. 3334 Curry Ford Road, 407-930-6267; $

Ra Sushi Trendy sushi joint is pitched to newbies, so those seeking a more authentic sushi experience should look elsewhere. While flavor fizzles in such dishes as “Ra”-ckin Shrimp, striped-bass nigiri and octopus sashimi shine. 9101 International Drive, 407-454-5600; $$$

SEA Thai R SEA Thai’s menu is pleasingly playful; house specialties include a jazzedup “South East Asia pad thai” with prawns, and crispy pineapple duck curry offers boneless meat in red curry-cream sauce. 3812 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-0985; $$

Sakari Sushi Maki rolls, bento boxes, teriyakis and tempuras are on offer, alongside signature dishes like the Sakari bomber (deep-fried jalapeño with spicy tuna, snow crab salad and cream cheese).

510 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-5050; $$

Sapporo Ramen Banish all thoughts of salty plasticwrapped bricks: It isn’t that kind of ramen. Richly flavored bowls of tonkotsu, shio, miso or shoyu ramen are the main event, but udon and soba noodles are also offered, as are curries and gyu-don, both of which are worth ordering. 5080 W. Colonial Drive, 407-203-6777; $

Seito New Japanese Cuisine R This popular Japanese eatery is about more than just sushi – small plates, like green curry mussels, beef negimaki and sea scallops with candied walnuts, share the menu with full-size entrees like duck leg confit with English pea and edamame mash, oxtail yakisoba and wagyu ribeye.

Craft cocktails and an extensive sake list make this a hot spot for happy

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Sushi Lola’s Japanese & Korean Restaurant The sushi-and-bibimbap joint has moved into a larger space, but very little has changed. The room is still jammed with close-set tables, but now there are more of them and the sushi chefs and kitchen staff have room to move. The stone-bowl bulgogi bibimbap is still spicy-crunchy-steamygood, and the flaming Magic Roll is still toted precariously throughout the crowded dining room. 2902 Corrine Drive, 407-898-5652; $$

Sushi Pop R Don’t let the fuchsia hues and J-popthemed decor fool you – Sushi Pop takes its fare seriously. Stellar sushi and sashimi complement a variety of rolls, entrees and whimsical desserts flourished with notes of molecular gastronomy like liquid-nitrogen PB&J sorbet made tableside. Sake fans can consult an in-house expert. 310 W. Mitchell Hammock Road, Oviedo, 407-542-5975; $$$

Tasty Wok You’ll be saying “thank you” repeatedly to your quick-to-educate servers at this modest corner barbecue and noodle house. Singapore rice noodles are a don’t-miss, and roast duck and chicken offer a proper juicy-to-crisp ratio. The real deal. 1246 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-8988; $

U Roll Sushi Design your own sushi roll or bowl by choosing your protein (salmon, fried tofu, shrimp, spicy tuna and the like), your fillings (asparagus, cream cheese, avocado, etc.) and your toppings (sesame seeds, wonton strips, tempura flakes and more) and sauces for a truly individual dining experience. Not in the mood to create your own dish? Choose an entree from the kitchen menu instead. 7685 E. Colonial Drive, 407-730-9699; $

Yum-Mi Sandwiches Bright, fresh and modern banh mi counter aims to please the masses with variations on the iconic Vietnamese sandwich. Specialty options like pork belly (“Miss Piggy”) and Asian-marinated beef cubes (“shimmy shaker”) stuffed inside fresh-baked baguettes are hits. Fresh fruit slushes and boba teas are must-try treats. 1227 N. Mills Ave., 407-894-1808; $

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immy Reyes might be a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, and his professional training may be rooted in classical French cuisine, but those technically challenging dishes don’t hold a candle to the one dish that defined him as a chef – hamachi crudo. “Although it’s a simple dish to make,” notes the executive chef at Todd English’s Bluezoo, “perfecting it so that it becomes something special is an art.”

And the version Reyes fashions truly is. Just listening to him describe the dish feels like a lesson in chemistry, and makes a trip to Bluezoo (at Walt Disney World’s Swan & Dolphin Resort) seem a whole lot shorter.

SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS

“My hamachi crudo is marinated overnight in fresh ginger and white soy. Marcona almonds are roasted and placed in a spice grinder to balance the acid in the dish. Meyer lemon is charred to bring out its natural sugar, then liquefied and blended with agaragar into a fluid gel texture. I then finish the dish with a cream reduction which is infused with Key lime juice, then carbonated to be made into a foam.”

OK, enough said. Who’s driving?

Todd English’s Bluezoo, 1500 Epcot Resorts Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-934-1111; $$$$

JIMMY REYES BLUEZOO

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SEAFOOD

Atlantic Beer & Oyster

Eddie V’s Prime Seafood

Bluepoint oysters, as well as those from Texas and Louisiana, are the main attraction at this beer-andoyster bar, but a trio of shrimp dishes, a salad and a burger are also offered.

The smoky fish dip makes a worthy nosh alongside a beer, of which there’s a decent selection. Service can be lackadaisical. 358 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7021; $$

You get what you pay for and, for the most part, this pricey Dr. Phillips fish house delivers. Both the steak and lobster tartare and the jumbo lump crab make a splash as starters.

Though it’s primarily a seafood place, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better steak than their 22-ounce USDA Prime bone-in rib-eye. 7488 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-355-3011; $$$$

Blu on the Avenue

King Cajun Crawfish

Chef Tony Kreuger knows what he’s doing with such dishes as ovenroasted snapper and pan-roasted duck breast. Owner Joanne McMahon is also an expert pastry chef, so don’t pass up sweet endings like peanut butter pie. Reservations recommended. 326 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-3778; $$$

A host of seasoning choices, topnotch sides and cut-rate prices make this Cajun dive a real draw for diners craving crawfish boils. Other NOLA staples are hit (catfish po’boy) and miss (gumbo). End with a strong cup of Café du Monde coffee. 914 N. Mills Ave., 407-704-8863; $

Cityfish

An unfancy place with 50 years of experience, where the fresh, sweet oysters (raw or steamed) are the focal point. For the full effect, sit at the bar and settle in with a whole bucket of them. 5621 Old Winter Garden Road, 407-293-3587; $$

The revamped Cityfish takes a good thing and makes it better thanks to executive chef/partner Greg Richie.

Fresh oysters, crab-shrimp gumbo and fish tacos make perfect lead-ins to more substantial mains like swordfish steaks and Parmesan-crusted day boat scallops. Richie’s Southern leanings are evident in shrimp and lobster pie. 617 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-9779; $$$

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Lee & Rick’s Oyster Bar R

served grilled, blackened, broiled, jerk-seasoned, Shang Hai-style or with a ginger-panko crust, among other options. The menu also includes a handful of entrees for people who simply don’t do fish. 460 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-339-3474; $$

Moor Fresh, sustainable food is what’s on tap at the Gaylord Palms’ newest restaurant. Look for the 60-foot-tall sailboat mast to find this “harbor of hip,” which features New World Floridian cuisine served by a chef who just arrived from Key West to bring an island-style atmo to town. 6000 W. Osceola Parkway, Kissimmee, 407-586-0000; $$$$

Ocean Prime There’s plenty of style and swank at this Art Deco supper club to keep the Sand Lake set happy, but a little more focus will make this good restaurant great. Aside from the premium seafood, don’t miss the Berries & Bubbles cocktail – spookily smoky from a cube of dry ice – and the truffled deviled eggs. 7339 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-781-4880; $$

Mitchell’s Fish Market You can order one of the fish market’s signature entrees, or choose today’s “market catch,” hand-filleted and

Oceanaire Seafood Room A budget-busting bounty of unparalleled freshness awaits fish lovers at

what is arguably Orlando’s finest seafood house. Up to 25 varieties of fish, lobster, crab and mussels, and 12 varieties of oysters are flown in daily from around the world. Family-style sides are available, though not necessary.

Save room to share the enormous caramel brownie. 9101 International Drive, 407-363-4801; $$$$

Urban Tide Local seasonal seafood, such as Gulf grouper and whole red snapper, share the menu with coastal fare from other areas, like sustainable wild-caught salmon, West coast oysters and New England scallops. If you’re more of a landlubber, there are plenty of steaks, chops, salads and more to choose from. Pick a table overlooking the grotto pool to complete the experience. Hyatt Regency, 9801 International Drive, 407-284-1234; $$$$

Winter Park Fish Co. R The mostly-from-Florida seafood served here will get you hooked.

They’ll make a gratifying fish and chips from scratch with almost any fish they’ve got in-house (your choice!), and fresh local produce is a nice healthy touch. Good things come to those who wait. 761 Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-6112; $$

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ROYAL PALM SOCO

That luscious orange marmalade you’ll enjoy on Soco’s brioche French toast (along with the candied peanuts and whiskey syrup) also makes its way into a brawny concoction they call the Royal Palm. Umatilla-distilled Palm Ridge Reserve whiskey is shaken with the house-cooked marmalade, then graced with a dark note of Scrappy’s chocolate bitters.

629 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-1800; socothorntonpark.com

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ike so many chefs, Peperoncino’s Barbara Alfano learned the aromas, flavors and traditions of southern Italian cuisine “between the burners and ovens” with her two nonnas. The quality time she spent with her grandmothers, particularly during those long, hot Calabrian summers, proved inspirational and formative. One dish in particular – her nonna’s melanzane chine, or stuffed eggplants – had a particular effect on her. “In the small town of Saracena, all women make their version of this dish,” recalls Alfano. It’s a classic secondo on Sundays, served with sauteed bitter greens, spicy peperoncino, green salad and what Alfano calls patate e puppazz’, or potatoes with peppers. “The aroma of the peppers when they hit the pan, and the eggplant when it gets roasted, triggers something fantastic inside my brain … it activates the love and passion I feel for cooking.”

Indeed, the potent union of food and memory impacted Alfano’s life in a meaningful way. While she’s mastered the art of feeding, she’s keenly aware of the importance of entertaining, and she wants to be sure her guests leave with special memories of their own. “Customers tell me all the time that my dishes bring back memories of their grandmothers, great-grandmothers and greataunts, and I tear up every time they tell me.”

As far as replicating her nonna’s stuffed eggplants, that’s easier said than done.

“She’s tried numerous times to explain it to me step by step, but it never turns out the same.”

BARBARA ALFANO

Peperoncino, 7988 Via Dellagio Way, 407-440-2856; $$$

Peperoncino

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Anthony’s Pizzeria & Italian Restaurant R Located in historic Thornton Park in a breezy building washed with bronze colors and a Tuscan atmosphere, the café’s two dozen tables – inside and on the courtyard – are a comfortable spot to enjoy traditional Italian subs, pizzas and pasta entrees. 100 N. Summerlin Ave., 407-648-0009; $$

Armando’s Cucina Italiana & Pizzeria Trendy Hannibal Square hotspot lures a diverse crowd for primo Italian standbys and wonderfully blistered pizzas, care of a custom-built brick oven. The egg-topped San Giovanni pizza is a crowd fave and ideal for sharing, but don’t overlook carpaccio with shaved Parmesan and pear slices. Pastas and secondi are simply presented, and shine because of it.

Reservations strongly recommended.

Patio dining available. 463 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-951-8930; $$

Brio Tuscan Grille With a stylish atmosphere and wellexecuted menus, Brio excels at flatbread pizzas and wood-grilled steak.

A bakery adds warmth to this bustling eatery at Winter Park Village. Try the Bellini brunch on weekends. 480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-5611; $$$

Enzo’s on the Lake Beautiful and sophisticated, the lakefront setting is as much of a draw as the culinary excellence of this Longwood mainstay. Along with the buzzing ambience comes occasional service pauses, but the kitchen makes up for them with Italian delicacies including fresh pasta and the best carpaccio in town. 1130 S. Highway 17-92, Longwood, 407-834-9872; $$$

Francesco’s Ristorante & Pizzeria Sicilian specialties star at this Maitland ristorante, with wood-fired brick-oven pizzas stealing the show. Pastas, like beautifully plated penne Palermitana, are worth seeking out, but be wary of bland veal Siciliano and flavorless calamari steak. Hand-fashioned desserts, like profiteroles and strawberry tiramisu, help make dealing with service deficiencies more bearable.

400 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-960-5533; $$

Il Pescatore R Former owner Stefano LaCommare and family have moved on, but in this simple atmosphere their dishes live on, true Italian through and through.

Seafood specialties make this bustling spot unique; pizza makes it familyfriendly. Choosing among the plethora of huge pasta entrees is pleasingly difficult. 651 N. Primrose Drive, 407-896-6763; $$

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Jet’s Pizza Specialty pizzas, like the eight-corner deep dish, the BLT or the chicken parm, share the menu with a ton of specialty subs (including Jetzee subs, made with deep-dish pizza crust bread), boneless wings, deep dish bread sticks and more. Multiple locations, jetspizza.com; $

Lazy Moon Pizza R Size matters to the throngs of underand post-grads here, and Lazy Moon delivers with astronomically huge slices. They also meet the needs of the broke with the Box Car Willy special – a giant slice of cheese pizza and a PBR – but better beers by far are to be had: 15 beers on tap and almost 50 more by the bottle. This fiercely beloved east Orlando spot holds its own as a haven for the anti-Budweiser legions who want craft suds with their slice. 11551 University Blvd., 407-658-2396; $

The Meatball Shoppe Small Azalea Park eatery serves up (what else?) meatballs in six different varieties, which can be enjoyed three different ways – on top of a side (consider penne pasta, polenta or white bean ragout), smashed inside a ciabatta roll, or “alone” (over greens).

Meatballs, be they traditional Italian, spicy pork or lamb, are moist and juicy, though meals can leave you wanting more, given that just three meatballs come in an order. Local Muse gelato and pricey, though tasty, mini cannoli comprise the dessert offerings. 7325 Lake Underhill Road, 407-270-6505; $

Mellow Mushroom R The quasi-hippie vibe at this Atlanta mainstay means you can get tofu on your pizza and it still tastes good; a menu of hoagies and superb salads, as well as more traditional pizzas, make this a chain you don’t have to feel guilty about loving. Try the Maui Wowie, a Hawaiian pizza with pesto, bacon and banana peppers, or the Thai Dye, with curry chicken, basil, cucumbers and Thai chili sauce; but if pizza’s not on your mind, salads and subs are huge and fresh. Good beer selection available. Multiple locations, mellowmushroom.com; $$

Metro Espresso Pizza CafE Trusty takeout joint on the ground floor of the Post Parkside building takes care of its Eola Heights neighbors with pizza and meatball subs, as well as the owner’s memorable lasagna and pasta dishes. 417 E. Central Blvd., 407-422-5282; $

O’Stromboli This family-friendly Italian restaurant has occupied the same Audubon Park spot for years, serving locals redsauce classics. It’s the neighborhood

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go-to for pizza, calzone and fantastic garlic knots; parking is tough, but delivery and takeout are offered.

1803 E. Winter Park Road, 407-647-3872; $$

Pizza Xtreme On the fringes of the tourist sector lies this hard-to-find gem dishing out some damn decent pie. The sauce is made from scratch, the dough is hand-stretched and tossed, and toppings are cut fresh, resulting in the quintessence of pizza. Stick to the circular pies for better consistency and flavor; if you’re pinching pennies, there are plenty of specials. 7250 S. Kirkman Road, 407-226-3333; $

Prato R You’ll battle crowds to get a seat at Brandon McGlamery’s Park Avenue “it spot,” but once inside, the rustic Italian creations of chef Matthew Cargo will justify the body-checking.

Start your meal with an apéritif, move on to house-cured bresaola or meatballs lolling in cipollini-sweetened sauce, then indulge in ricotta gnudi richened with Meyer-lemon confit or Idaho trout with sunchoke puree.

Mascarpone pound cake and brownbutter panna cotta are proper endings. 124 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-262-0050; $$

Ravalia’s Fresh Pasta & Italian Grill It’s hard to say “basta” to the pasta when you can get a heaping plate of house-made cavatelli with zesty sauce and a garlic breadstick for about seven bucks. Six house-made pastas and six sauces allow for plenty of mixing and matching, but don’t overlook the Tuscan rotisserie items and the grinder sandwiches. With all this and gelato too, you may need to break out the fat pants. 3579 Lake Emma Road, Lake Mary, 407-878-0923; $

Rocco’s Italian Grille The polished yet comfortable interior and the range of regional Italian fare are sure to delight discriminating diners with such singularly pleasing dishes as the golden-crisp veal Milanese and the linguine frutti di mare. Even simple herb-grilled chicken is impeccably prepared, and desserts, such as creamy tiramisu and dense, milky gelato, are heavenly.

400 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-7770; $$$$

Rome’s Flavours Roman husband and wife bring a small slice of the Eternal City to Winter Park with simple, rustic, fullflavored dishes. Rustic “paddle pizzas” served on floured cutting boards are just as delectable as the hearty potato soup and flank steak served over arugula. The focused menu also features a variety of salumi and al dente pastas. Whatever you do, sample their

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ITALIAN gelatos, preferably in the form of an affogato. 124 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-951-8039; $$

Siro Urban Italian Kitchen Siro brings farm-to-fork dining to the tourist corridor, and does it with aplomb. Seasonal small plates like roasted bone marrow, spicy lamb sausage, crisp baby artichokes and cheese mezzaluna with sage brown butter are well worth the drive, more so if you happen to be in the area.

Their staunch commitment to sourcing local should be applauded. World Center Marriott, 8701 World Center Drive, 407-238-8619; $$$$

Tartini Pizzeria & Spaghetteria Neighborhood trattoria is drawing aficionados of wood-fired pizza. Thin crust, perfectly blistered and wonderfully doughy pies are as good as any you’ll sample in the city, and the house chicken soup is a must for anyone feeling under the weather.

Italian-imported desserts and wines lend to Tartini’s authenticity. 6327 S. Orange Ave., 407-601-2400; also 625 Rock Ridge Blvd., Apopka, 407-814-7474; $$

Terramia Wine Bar & Trattoria It’s out with the old and in with a new brick oven at this Altamonte mainstay in its new digs. The perfectly blistered artisanal pizzas are a top-notch draw, as are the gratifying plates of pasta – particularly the wonderfully briny squid ink pasta. Chantilly cream-filled profiteroles were ridiculously good, but tiramisu lacked the espresso jolt.

1150 Douglas Ave., Altamonte Springs, 407-774-8466; $$$

Trevi Pasta College Park Italian market serves as a one-stop shop for fresh-made pasta, piadini, gelato and sundry Italian imports (think truffles). Pasta, however, is their main pursuit, with a variety of cuts, flavors and types from which to choose. Sauces are expertly fashioned, from simple pomodorobasilico to creamy numbers with portobello, porcini and prosciutto.

The gelato case is always a popular gathering ground for kids and adults alike. 2120 Edgewater Drive, 407-985-2577; $$

Wolfies Pizzamia R Ivanhoe Village artisan pizzeria dishes out house-cured charcuterie and hand-tossed pizzas with a dedication to time-honored techniques. The salumi platter, a bowl of split-pea soup and arugula salad is a primo way to commence, followed by any one of their pizzas (try the signature Wolfies with fennel, blue cheese and dry salted beef) or house-made pastas (do yourself a favor and get the spaghetti and meatballs). 1905 N. Orange Ave., 407-237-0921; $$

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rmed with an impressive résumé that includes stints at some highly acclaimed NYC and Chicago restaurants, Tim Dacey is giving his star some added rise as the executive chef of Capa steakhouse at the Four Seasons Resort. But it didn’t come easy for the hotshot 20-something – in fact, his career might have taken a different turn had it not been for a fateful wintertime trip to Chicago with his sister.

“After cooking for two years, I still wasn’t sure if it was something I wanted to pursue as a career. But I remember that trip to Chicago for two reasons – the blistering cold and the incredible dinners we had.” One such dinner was a standout serving of gnocchi with a wild boar ragoût from Tony Mantuano’s Café Spiaggia. “It was a dish that was perfect on all levels,” recalls Dacey. “It was so rich and hearty that it made me forget about the cold outside and, more importantly, it was a dish that marked a turning point in my career.” A year later, Dacey was working in Chicago, at Café Spiaggia, and the rest, as they say, is history.

Capa, Four Seasons Resort, 10100 Dream Tree Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-313-7777; $$$$

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Choo Choo Churros From empanadas to authentic open-grilled steaks, this is a good but unpretentious Argentine steak house in the shadow of the East-West Expressway. Order a delicious mixedmeat grill from parts of the beast that some people, even carnivores, would rather not think about. 5810 Lake Underhill Road, 407-382-6001; $$

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar Paul Fleming, the “P.F.” in P.F. Chang’s, brings another high-end steakhouse to Winter Park, with an emphasis on wine. Fleming’s offers aged, hand-cut beef in huge, thick-as-a-brick servings and family-style side dishes, giant seafood entrees and enormous desserts. Big and beefy. 933 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-699-9463; also 8030 Via Dellagio Way, 407-3525706; $$$

Fogo de Chao A shrine to beef, with heavenly tableside service to boot. Juicy skirt steak, salt-crusted rib-eye and meltingly tender filet are standouts, but accoutrements like deep-fried polenta squares, bacon-studded rice and beans, and thick spears of chilled asparagus will also wow. The impressive wine list leans toward South American malbecs and rioja; the high ratio of staff to diners means service is equally impressive. 8282 International Drive, 407-370-0711; $$$$

The Golden Knife A modern American steakhouse menu awaits at this downtown eatery.

Indulge in 28-day dry-aged steaks, steak tartare, salmon with pumpkin pesto and Brussels sprouts with pancetta and chestnut honey. If you have room for dessert, a selection of pies, cakes and artisanal cheeses awaits. 63 E. Pine St., 321-352-7785; $$$

Kres Chophouse Downtown chophouse brings an element other steakhouses don’t seem to have – impeccable service with Jazz Age flair. The prime cuts of meat are damn fine too, be they rib-eye steaks or foie gras-topped elk tenderloins.

An in-house sommelier roams the space proffering sagacious wine advice. Desserts, like white chocolate bread pudding with whiskey sauce, also cater to epicurean sensibilities. 17 W. Church St., 407-447-7950; $$$$

Linda’s La Cantina R No matter how you slice it, Linda’s La Cantina serves a superb steak and has been doing so for more than a half a century. Sit in the Fire Fountain Lounge sipping a grasshopper while you’re waiting for your checkedtablecloth table in the dining room – and keep in mind that on most nights, reservations are recommended. All

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STEAKHOUSES steaks are cut in-house, including the monster 2-pound T-bone. 4721 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-4491; $$$

Nelore Churrascaria Park Avenue churrascaria offers up an awesome 40-item salad bar, comprising crisp vegetables, fish, soup and more, but it’s the all-you-can-eat-meat extravaganza that packs ’em in. Our advice: Stick to the sirloin cuts (top sirloin and picanha) and avoid the lamb. Scrumptious Brazilian desserts are made in-house. 115 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-1112; $$$$

Oyishi Japanese Steakhouse In addition to fresh sushi, sashimi and traditional Japanese rice and noodle dishes, this Oviedo eatery also offers diners the quintessential hibachi experience. Hibachi chefs will cook up everything from salmon to lobster to filet mignon right before your eyes, and they’ll put on a show while they do it. 1275 Oviedo Mall Blvd., Oviedo, 407-921-2968; $$

Ruth’s Chris Steak House R Weighing in heavily on the masculine side of the top-dollar dining spectrum, the ambience, menu and service here are powerfully delivered. The New Orleans-based chain serves only aged meats from corn-fed Hereford cows, seared on an 1,800-degree grill – so tender a knife isn’t necessary. For expense accounts and special occasions. Multiple locations, ruthschris. com; $$$$

Shula’s 347 Grill Part sports bar, part trendy steakhouse, this hotel restaurant scores big. The scene and clamor may not suit all tastes, but the cowboy steak, a 16-ounce bone-in rib-eye, certainly will. Same goes for the grouper, simply grilled and served with balsamicdrizzled asparagus and smashed potatoes. 2974 International Parkway, Lake Mary, 407-531-3567; $$$$

Texas de Brazil One price buys overindulgence at this richly styled all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria, serving 15 cuts of charcoal-grilled meats on large skewers that are delivered to your table until you tell ’em to stop. The salad bar is a country in itself, with a wealth of fresh vegetables and Latin standbys. 5259 International Drive, 407-355-0355; $$$$

Vines Grille & Wine Bar Steaks and seafood straight from an open charcoal grill are what you’ll find in a surprisingly intimate spot in the heart of Sand Lake’s restaurant row.

The upscale fare includes perfect tenderloins and crunchy flatbread pizzas, and there’s live music nightly. 7533 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-1227; $$$

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ver since the Petrakis empire expanded to include the sandwich and provisions shop Swine & Sons, located next to Cask & Larder in Winter Park, foodies have been abuzz about the husband-and-wife team behind the counter. Rhys and Alexia Gawlak are the lifeblood of the place, and those creamy blueberry goat cheesecakes and robust macarons and pillowy carrot muffins? That’s all Alexia.

Since her graduation from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, in 2004, Alexia has held

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positions in some of Orlando’s most-talked-about restaurants. Her early career was shaped by the farm-fresh-food concepts of Melissa Kelly at Primo at the JW Marriott Grande Lakes, where she began her career after graduation. Not a bad place to hone chops. Gawlak then moved over to work under Brandon McGlamery at Luma, and with the opening of the Ravenous Pig in 2007, she served as James and Julie Petrakis’ sous-chef.

Chef Gawlak cites cooking with her own children as an exciting part of her learning and development as a chef, and often takes the lessons and experiments (and attitude) she gains from spending time with her kids in her home kitchen to her work in the professional kitchen. “Cooking with them allows me to remember to not take food so seriously, and is a nice break from having spent so much time in the kitchens of fast-paced, upscale restaurants,” she explains. “I’ve also found that it has lightened up my food philosophy and made me more easygoing.”

The house-cured charcuterie at Swine & Sons is a paramount example of what Gawlak feels most passionately about: food that comes from food. “We are aiming to make honest food more accessible at home,” she explains.

“There’s no stuff here you could just make out of a box.”

The ideals Gawlak gleaned from her time at Primo still pervade her menu development and approach, and she cites Kelly, along with local chef Kathleen Blake (who has also been instrumental in bringing farm-to-fork eating to the City Beautiful) as among her biggest culinary influences. “What’s available seasonally is what’s most inspiring to me,” she says. As summer approaches, she anticipates adding Zellwood sweet corn ice cream to the pint lineup at Swine & Sons. We can’t wait.

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t only takes a bite or two to realize it when the chef’s having fun back there, and at Primo at the JW Marriott Grande Lakes, the Orlando outpost of Melissa Kelly’s Maine farm-to-table resto, that chef is Mariano vegel. vegel grew up in the culinary industry in Argentina, and after dropping out of law school, he followed in his family’s footsteps and graduated with a culinary arts degree from Instituto Argentino de Gastronomia in 2006. His first job out of school was at a Marriott in Buenos Aires, and in October of that year, he made his way to the JW Marriott Grande Lakes and worked his way up through the casual dining restaurant, Citron, to eventually be appointed chef de cuisine at Primo, just six years later. for vegel, food is memory, especially when it comes to developing new additions for the Primo menu. “I incorporate a lot of my Spanish and Italian roots into my cooking. for example, whenever I make a bagna cauda, the aroma takes me back to a family table with 30 people dipping raw vegetables in hot butter. My first bite into a tortilla española always makes me feel like a kid again,” he says.

Connecting with his family in Argentina keeps his sense memories flowing, too. “We talk about smells and flavors from my mom’s kitchen and then try to replicate them on my own. I figure, if this food made me so happy for so long, it should have a similar effect on the people that come to eat at Primo.”

As a boy, vegel worked in his grandfather’s pizzeria rolling and cutting pasta. Now, Primo is one of the growing number of places in town where all the pasta is made from scratch in house. Taste some of vegel’s childhood in the squid ink frutti di mare – the black pasta is dotted with calamari rings, picked crab, florida rock shrimp and tasso ham. Combining ultra-high-quality ingredients and comforting dishes is part of vegel’s philosophy on food.

“Simple and down-to-earth food is what we’re all about; it should be food that everyone understands and can relate to. We follow a simple formula here: fresh ingredients plus passionate execution equals new memories for our guests.”

Whatever the dish, vegel’s global influence and excitement in the kitchen is as vibrant as the dishes he puts out from the Primo kitchen. He remarks, “I hope to keep learning, to open eyes through food, and to have fun in the kitchen until my last day.”

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t 15 years old, Jason Schofield cooked his first Thanksgiving dinner, solo – that’s the kind of kid he was. Now, he’s getting primed for the opening of Maddey’s Craft & Cru, a joint that’ll sling artisan pizzas, seasonal bites and craft brews. from his start as a dishwasher in Tampa, Schofield has built a kitchen philosophy alongside his consulting business, garnering praise for his work at Wolfies Pizzamia and White Wolf Café, part of his background in corporate culinary development.

“There’s more than one way to climb a mountain,” says Schofield. “In a chef’s terms, there are many different ways to execute a dish through textures, flavors, ingredients and cooking methods.” Schofield believes the secret to his kitchen success is finding the right combination of

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those things to create a dish that speaks to his guests. He’s forward-thinking, with an eye toward the future and how he can adapt to keep diners interested, including sustainable practices, population growth, carbon emissions and other big-picture ideas. His travel and work in Turkey and the Mediterranean gave him a global perspective on craft.

“It’s all about the senses,” he says. “They take us back to a moment in time, and that’s our job as chefs, to help you relive life’s great moments through food.” Sometimes those moments happen at home but end up on menus: The star of a recent dinner party was an impromptu dessert napoleon layered with Chantilly cream, crème de cassis gastrique and macerated berries, topped with crushed Kit Kat bars, toasted cumin and smoked paprika. When Maddey’s opens, find it on the dessert menu as the “Kat-hattan.”

A spirit of play imbues Schofield’s work – he calls it his “I-Am-ness,” getting in touch with that child-like place where fun and exploration are paramount. “I yearn to get to that free-spirited point where you aren’t bound by what you can or can’t do, and what people say is or isn’t traditional,” he explains. Surrounding himself with creativity and talent inspires him daily.

“My dad wasn’t a great communicator, but we understood each other through food we made and ate together,” says Schofield. Eating at the state’s newest and most exciting eateries at an early age opened his eyes to food’s inherent excitement. “My dad was my role model, and of course you want to do everything your role model does, so I ate whatever he ate,” he says. Above all, Schofield wants to make his family proud as a chef. He’s well on his way.

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ith a pedigree that includes stints at victoria & Albert’s (under Scott Hunnel) and at Tuyo in Miami and Norman’s at the Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes (under Norman van Aken), it’s no wonder that when Barnie’s CoffeeKitchen execs came looking for someone to run their newly reimagined space on Park Avenue, van Aken personally recommended Camilo velasco.

After starting his career as a dishwasher while attending culinary school at valencia College, velasco put himself in the right place at the right time, ending up in an unpaid stage at v&A’s, and then moving into a paid position as chef de partie. for the Colombian native, the fusion cuisine of Norman’s and Tuyo was a natural fit, and in 2012, when he took on the kitchen at Barnie’s CoffeeKitchen, he brought with him a love of inventive cuisine and willingness to push boundaries. velasco’s kitchen and menu development approach goes far beyond what might be expected at a coffeehouseturned-bistro. “I like to focus on sourcing first, buying the best I can in season. Then, when developing dishes, I like food that conveys sharing. I like clean flavors, acid-driven dishes with few components,” he explains. velasco has developed relationships with many local suppliers and artisans that provide ingredients for his menu’s chef-driven dishes, like Tom West Blueberries in Ocoee, Nine’s Mine Ranch in St. Cloud and Palmetto Creek farms in Avon Park. for velasco, inspiration comes in the form of seeking out what’s creating buzz in the Orlando food scene. “from

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hole-in-the-wall spots no one except a few people know about to the flagships of chefs I know and admire, this town has tons of cool stuff going on in the culinary scene,” he says.

When he’s not behind a cutting board or in front of a stove, velasco is exploring wine and discovering new ways to pair his favorite varietals with his dishes at Barnie’s. “I approach new wines with food pairings in mind, so I often like to cook specifically for a bottle of wine I’m excited about, or a new discovery,” says velasco. Always seeking a new benchmark for his own cooking is what keeps him motivated to innovate in the kitchen and push the boundaries of what “café food” really is. Rabbit ragoût with cavatelli pasta and freshly shaved truffles, anyone?

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Executive Chef at Norman’s at the Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes

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pleted dish is pan-seared cobia with sous-vide Zellwood farms corn crema and fresh winter Périgord truffles.” That kind of innovation is what gets Norman’s noticed, and Mendoza is the engine behind the kitchen.

Like his mentor, van Aken, Mendoza believes strongly in the historical and cultural implications of food. “I like to cook food that not only tastes and looks great, but tells a story,” he says. He cites van Aken as his biggest culinary and personal influence, not only admiring his knowledge of cuisine, but the way he presents himself as a chef and as a person.

Mendoza’s ambitions lie in the perfection of his craft and continuing the comestible storytelling for which Norman’s has garnered so much attention. “I express my own cultural history through my cooking. With each dish, I hope I’m sharing that culture and my passion for it with our guests,” he says.

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n his day off (when he takes one), you might find chef Andres Mendoza strolling one of Orlando’s myriad ethnic supermarkets in search of the next ingredient to inspire a dish at Norman’s at the Ritz-Carlton Grande Lakes. Helmed by one of the original kitchen kings, Norman van Aken (godfather of the floribbean movement), the James Beard-nominated Latin-fusion temple gives a fine-dining experience as authentically elegant as at any big-city brasserie, but with decidedly more Caribbean, Central and South American flair.

Like many chefs, Mendoza credits his mom for instilling a love of cooking, but not in the typical “tugging at the apron strings” way. for Mendoza’s mother, cooking was punitive. “When I began high school, I became an expert at causing trouble. As punishment, my mom would make me help her cook lunch. What she didn’t know was I started to enjoy cooking and spending time in the kitchen,” he recalls. After moving to the U.S. in 2006, he started working as a dishwasher. His interest in cooking continued to grow, and in 2008, he enrolled at the Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. After two years spent in chef Phillip Ponticelli’s crew at Citricos at the Grand floridian, he joined the team at Norman’s as chef de partie. The fit was immediate, he says. “I identified heavily with the ‘New World’ cuisine. The ingredients, the atmosphere, even the smells in the kitchen made me feel at home.”

Mendoza, now the executive chef at Norman’s, brings his roots to the menu here, along with a healthy appetite for innovation. “Recently I was on the hunt for huitlacoche, the Mexican corn fungus. It was nowhere to be found anywhere in town,” he says. “That’s when I thought to myself, ‘What is huitlacoche? It’s just a fungus,’ so I started to experiment with other fungi, specifically truffles. The com-

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s Germans, we love cauliflower,” declares Marc Kusche, executive chef of Hamilton’s Kitchen at the Alfond Inn. Not only is that a step up from loving David Hasselhoff, but it’s an ingredient he now uses in a dish that came to him in his youthful days as an apprentice in one of Germany’s top seafood restaurants – Natusch, in the northern port city of Bremerhaven.

TRADITIONAL RESTAURANTS

Being from the North, Kusche grew up on fish, and one day he had the idea to combine the two in a dish featuring olive oil–poached red snapper and caramelized cauliflower. “I love the variation of flavors,” notes Kusche, who has since modified the dish and added it to the Hamilton’s Kitchen menu. “In addition to the nice, nutty cauliflower and flavorful moist snapper, I add crispy shaved fennel to top the flavor palette.” After the 12-ounce ribeye, it’s the most expensive dish on the menu and, no surprise, the restaurant’s top seller.

Hamilton’s Kitchen at the Alfond Inn, 300 E. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-998-8089; $$$$

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TRADITIONAL Boca Tampa-based boîte is the latest to make a go of this jinx spot, and does so with intermittent success. Wonderfully crisp fried green tomatoes with pimento, tomato jam and house bacon are an impressive starter, as is the farmhouse salad with greens grown right on the walls in their “vertical garden.” Mains can be hit (pan-seared wahoo over pineapple salsa, black bean paste, celery puree) or miss (overdone bistecca). Desserts are right on. 358 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7022; $$$

The Cheesecake Factory The menu is almost as large as its portions (think take-home box).

More than 30 varieties of cheesecake complement the meal, though it’s OK to pick up a piece at the takeout counter on your way out. Massively satisfying from beginning to end. 520 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407644-4220; $$$

Cooper’s Hawk Winery and Restaurant Midwest chain brings a wine-centric concept to the UCF corridor with a slew of proprietary varietals and a menu catering to all palates. The fare, comprising the gamut of flatbreads and pasta to steak and seafood, is expectedly satisfactory if unexceptional. 529 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-3742464; also 8005 International Drive, 407-956-3400; $$$

DeVines An eclectic yet simple tapas-style menu that changes seasonally puts the focus on fresh ingredients. From light bites, like charcuterie and cheese plates, to more substantial dishes, like spring risotto or grilled skirt steak, there’s plenty to pair with the restaurant’s extensive wine selection.

15 Alafaya Woods Blvd., Oviedo, 407359-5016; $$

Dexter’s R The three restaurants in the Dexter’s family, longtime favorites of the Orlando brunch and happy-hour scenes, share a flair for giving comfort food – pastas, sandwiches, killer sweet-potato fries – an exciting twist in an ambience that’s just right for friends, food and conversation.

Multiple locations, dexwine.com; $$

Highball & Harvest The Ritz-Carlton’s farm-to-table resto caters to the city’s food-conscious millennials with Southern-inspired dishes employing local, farm-fresh ingredients. Competently executed plates of comfort food issue from Mark Jeffers’ kitchen: You won’t go wrong with a starter of duck and andouille gumbo, followed by an outstanding skirt steak, capped with sticky toffee pudding. Don’t miss

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ham-hock-infused boiled peanuts.

Ritz-Carlton Orlando Grande Lakes, 4012 Central Florida Parkway, 407393-4422; $$$$

Hillstone R A short menu compensates with huge portions, especially desserts. Pork ribs, steaks, chicken and a fish of the day (and a very popular grilled artichoke) are served in a wood-accented setting with a lake view from every seat. You’ll likely spend some time on the lovely tree-dotted lawn if you don’t make a reservation – but that’s OK. 215 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-740-4005; $$$

House of Blues Classic Southern-style comfort food with a contemporary spin is the specialty here, and favorite dishes include voodoo shrimp, applewood bacon-wrapped meatloaf and Angus burgers prepared any way you like.

Don’t miss the weekly gospel brunch every Sunday at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m.

1490 E. Lake Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-934-2583; $$

Maxine’s on Shine R Neighborhood jewel offers an eclectic Italian-esque menu in a casual, intimate atmosphere. Pasta and fish dishes are deftly executed; the nutrient-rich kale in the Cobb salad offsets the decadent bacon, egg and blue cheese. Wine list is ample and studied. Brunch is offered Saturday and Sunday. 337 N. Shine Ave., 407674-6841; $$

RusTeak Restaurant & Wine Bar Don’t let the scary-long menu fool you – most of the dishes created by the proficient kitchen of this Ocoee gastropub are top-notch. If the lamb porterhouse is ever offered as a special, pounce on it. They also know how to cook fish to perfection. Other highlights: Tuscan steak flatbread and the hefty half-pound RusTeak burger.

1568 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-6143765; also 2625 Edgewater Drive, 407-540-1100; $$

Tap Room at Dubsdread Historic dining destination on the grounds of Orlando’s oldest public golf course offers simple, impeccably prepared dishes. Pot roast makes an ideal meat-and-potatoes nosh, fish and chips are simple comfort food, and homemade Key lime pie is a must.

549 W. Par St., 407-650-0100; $$$

Taps Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Part watering hole, part wine bar caters to grown-ups, but beer and wine aficionados are sure to be impressed with the extensive selection. The menu focuses on small plates, salads and sandwiches.

480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-677-5000; $$

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ecognition and appreciation are fundamental human needs, and for many a budding chef, they can mean the difference between a good career and a great career. Back in 2002, soon after Laurent Hollaender was appointed to the position of executive chef at the celebrated Café Lombardy in Washington, D.C., he was invited to appear on Recipes From the Chef’s Kitchen, a popular TV show on the local PBS affiliate.

Hollaender whipped up a roasted Colorado rack of lamb with wild thyme jus, gratin Dauphinois, tomato Provençal and whole garlic confit for the show’s Valentine’s Day episode, and the show returned the love by giving credence (and attention) to what the Alsatian chef was doing at the Pennsylvania Avenue resto, adding to his growing cachet. Newspapers like the Washington Times picked up on his roasted lamb creation, as did other publications. “I had this dish on my menu for many years, and it was always a top seller,” says Hollaender.

The Boheme, Grand Bohemian Hotel, 325 S. Orange Ave., 407-581-4700; $$$$

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Ararat Bistro Portions are generous and prices reasonable at Ararat, a restaurant specializing in dishes from Russia, Armenia and all points in between.

Specialties from the Caucasus region worth sampling are many, including Russian-style dumplings (pelmeni) and baked buns (pirozhki). For mains, consider crispy butterflied Cornish hen and lamb kebabs. 7540 Universal Blvd., 407-351-3131; $$

Benjamin French Bakery A stellar bakery in the heart of Thornton Park serves sandwiches and quiches worth stopping in for, but the baguettes, croissants and other sugary delights are what linger in your mind long after you’ve left. 716 E. Washington St., 407-797-2253; $

Bistro CloClo Classical French bistro dishes are served in a plush dining space covered in original art and ruby-red wallpaper. Salade CloClo – if topped with the optional sautéed foie gras – and scallops à la CloClo are standout dishes, but skip the insipid escargots vol-au-vents. Some, but not enough, French wine to be had. Excellent individual service (almost) makes up for any kitchen missteps. 7600 Doctor Phillips Blvd., 407-745-5045; $$$$

Madrid-style tapas, flamenco dancing and top-notch fare. 7637 Turkey Lake Road, 407-730-8948; $$$$

Mi Tomatina Paella Bar Hannibal Square tapas bar impresses with a lineup of hot and cold small plates and rice dishes. Mushroom caps stuffed with Serrano ham, authentic tortilla con chorizo, and vegetarian paella full of meaty wild mushrooms spark the palate. A nice selection of Spanish wines and sherries ensures authenticity. 433 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 321-972-4881; $$

Paris Bistro Fine French fare comes to the northern end of Park Avenue with a roll call of bistro classics. Canard aux peches, ballotines de volaille and beef burgundy are standout mains, and a tableside dessert cart is a nice touch.

216 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407671-4424; $$$

Polonia Polish Restaurant Diners with bored palates will find revived appetite at this traditional Polish restaurant. Chicago cold cuts and homemade desserts bracket slow-cooked stews and crispy potato pancakes; many dishes are prepared from family recipes. 750 S. Highway 17-92, Longwood, 407-331-1933; $$

Hollerbach’s Willow Tree Cafe

Santiago’s Bodega R

Homey gasthaus in Sanford’s historic downtown district offers bier, wursts, spaetzle, strudel and some of the finest sweet red cabbage you’ll eat, but the talent extends well beyond the food: Oompah music, dancing and downing “das boot” (about a yard of beer) are a crowd-stirring must. 205 E. First St., Sanford, 407-321-2204; $$

Deeply attractive dining room serves a bevy of tapas and small plates.

While prices are ponderous, many dishes – like beef tenderloin carpaccio, yellowfin tuna ceviche, patatas bravas and short ribs coated in a cherryhoisin glaze – are as accomplished as they are pricey. The extensive wine list impresses, but so does the plain old house red. Open late. 802 Virginia Drive, 407-412-6979; $$

Lacomka Bakery & Deli The mix of foods from Russia includes whole smoked herrings so tender that they spread like pâté and potato dumplings and borscht worthy of a stay at the Summer Palace. On your way out, pick up a box of Czar Nicholas Royal Tea. 2050 Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-1101; $$

Le Coq Au Vin R Incredible French cuisine is the hallmark of this south Orlando landmark.

Graceful technique distinguishes dishes such as a grouper fillet crusted with toasted pecans and spices and bathed in citrus beurre blanc. 4800 S. Orange Ave., 407-851-6980; $$$$

Lolailo the Original Dining on authentic Galician staples will cost you, but what’s a few extra dollars when you get to experience sublime grilled octopus flown in from the cold waters off the Galician coast? Or firm and flaky merluza (Atlantic haddock)? Patrons head to this Turkey Lake Road resto for the

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EUROPEAN

Schumann’s JAger Haus While Willow Tree in Sanford may be tops for fans of German cuisine, there’s plenty of good food, beer and atmo at this downtown German restobierhaus to save Orlandoans the drive.

Plump sausages, comforting schnitzels and crisp potato pancakes all beg to be washed down with a half-liter of Spaten Optimator. Don’t pass on flaky apple strudel. 25 W. Church St., 407-985-1950; $$

Txokos Basque Kitchen Believe the hype. Basque renditions

by James Beard Award nominee Henry Salgado are as inspired as they are exquisite. The asador grill yields sublimely tender octopus, while the charred peach encrusted with chorizo crumbles intrigues. Other highlights: pinxtos of anchovies, morcilla and charred spring onions. Libations are thoughtfully crafted and selected.

East End Market, 3201 Corrine Drive, 321-972-8852; $$$$

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A flute full of opaque blood-red fluid might cause non-vampires to quail, but screw your courage to the sticking place and give it a try; you’ll be met with an utterly unique combination of flavors and textures. The faint earthiness of beets – roasted to bring out sweetness, then pureed and strained – mingles with a silky house-made gomme, smooth Reyka vodka, sharp Boodles gin, a flamboyant pop of raspberry liqueur and a subtle, tart acid tincture. It’s a menu mainstay, but other culinary cocktails do pop up at Pharmacy – sometimes there’s a punch made with tincture of prosciutto di Parma and clarified milk, and a foie gras-based drink is on the horizon.

8060 Via Dellagio Way, 407-985-2972; thepharmacyorlando.com

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BBQ RESTAURANTS

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irst and foremost, I am not a chef,” begins Thomas Ward.

“I’m just a really big guy that likes simple food.” Long before opening Pig Floyd’s Urban Barbakoa, Ward worked in the supermarket business and would visit late-night food trucks specializing in a sandwich fashioned from pan sobao (a Puerto Rican sweet bread) with churrasco, chicken, potato sticks, lettuce, tomato and mayoketchup. “I found the sandwich so delicious that I set out to make my version of it.” Ward’s well-regarded Treehouse Truck became known for the “ChiMoo,” a sandwich of skirt steak, chicken, coleslaw, sweet potato fries and mango barbecue sauce, and that sandwich helped him parlay his keen culinary vision into a successful brickand-mortar barbecue operation.

No surprise, then, that Pig Floyd’s sandwiches are the most popular items on the menu, only now, those sub rolls are filled with luscious oakwoodsmoked brisket and flavorful pulled pork. Barbecue-loving hipsters hooked on Treehouse Truck anxiously waited for Ward to open the doors on Mills Avenue last year, and now, meal after meal, Pig Floyd’s never fails to leave them comfortably numb.

Pig Floyd’s Urban Barbakoa, 1326 N. Mills. Ave., 407-203-0866; $$

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THOMAS WARD Pig Floyd’s Urban barbakoa

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BBQ 4 Rivers Smokehouse R It’s all about the smoked-to-perfection Angus beef brisket at this popular Texas-style smokehouse; be prepared to wait in line. Heady sides set this barbecue joint apart from the rest: smoked corn relish, sweet and meaty baked beans, and cream-cheesestuffed jalapeños wrapped in bacon.

Desserts are insanely huge and toothtwangin’ sweet (and we mean that in a good way). Multiple locations, 4rsmokehouse.com; $$

American Q Barbecue makes rodizio-style rounds at American Q, the brainchild of B Hotels and China Grill’s Jeffrey Chodorow. Buffet cuts like brisket with Texas bark and andouille sausage are Lone Star State-worthy. Be wary of desiccated pork shoulder and flank steak, however. A la carte items like Texas beef ribs and Mississippi fried catfish gratify, but hit the pocketbook hard. Service is professional and friendly, but it can lag. Interesting cocktails and “swine candy” (a sweetglazed bacon bar snack) keep barflies buzzing. Open daily. 1905 Hotel Plaza Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-8273080; $$$

Bubbalou’s Bodacious Bar-B-Que R Follow the siren smell of smoky, sweet meats: pork, chicken, beef, turkey, sausage, lamb and, for BBQ rebels, gizzards and livers. At meal times, expect to fight your way to a table at this award-winner. Multiple locations, bubbalous.com; $$

Cecil’s Texas Style Bar-B-Q Specializing in meats slow-cooked over hickory wood, this Texas-style smokehouse raises the bar in freshoff-the-fire fare. Velvety beef brisket

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and sausage are signature items, and the smoky succulence of the turkey breast makes for guilt-free indulging.

Sides, like the sweet potato souffle and jalapeño chili beans, are outstanding and plentiful. Creamy banana pudding provides a little Southern comfort. 2800 S. Orange Ave., 407423-9871; $$

Red Eye Bar & Grill Ocoee bar and grill keeps the focus on barbecue, and rightfully so, though perfect steaks and enormous grilled wings give the robustly smoked brisket a run for its money. Dollars are less wisely spent on starters like the fish dip and crab-and-corn chowder, but bananas Foster is a blissful mealender. 2594 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-877-0003; $$

Southern Moon Smokehouse At this Conway-adjacent smokehouse, the chefs behind the popular Fork in the Road food truck are honing their pitmaster skills. Dry pulled pork needs work, as does the rub on the brisket, but St. Louis-style ribs are absolutely luscious. Vegetarians may want to sample the smoked and pulled jackfruit, an intriguing option.

House-made sodas are tart and original; service is friendly but as yet harried. 3000 Curry Ford Road, 407895-8076; $

Wildside Bar And Grill Bbq Wildside’s bar is a casual hangout for those who want a beer after dinner in Thornton Park. An inside bar with adjacent outside seating doesn’t hurt the people-watching – or dog-watching, either. 700 E. Washington St., 407-872-8665; $$

AMERICAN Q

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John rivers the coop

J

ohn Rivers’ path to the kitchen started with his first taste of brisket 25 years ago. “I’d never even heard of brisket until [Rivers’ wife] Monica brought me to Sugarland, Texas, to meet her family,” he says. It was there on a crisp November afternoon that Rivers enjoyed his first succulent and smoky slice of what he refers to as “benevolent bovine.” Naturally, he took some Texasstyle ribbing on his lack of barbecue acumen from his wife’s cousins, so in an attempt to save face, he vowed to conquer the art of smoking a brisket, which he did after 18 years of trial and error. (Taste the results for yourself at 4 Rivers Smokehouse.)

By comparison, it only took Rivers a year to lock down his recipe for fried chicken, though he attacked it in a similarly obsessive manner, starting off with “research trips” that took him to various cities in the South, followed by months of testing brining times, batter seasonings and frying techniques. He settled on a three-day brine and an

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herbaceous buttermilk coating, and patrons of the Coop, his Winter Park deep dive into Southern cuisine classics, have been the beneficiaries since it opened last spring.

Rivers’ cooking prowess, be he smoking or frying, has come a long way in the last quarter-century – quite the accomplishment for a guy who ditched a lucrative career in the healthcare/pharmaceutical industry. “Oh, and those cousins,” he adds, “I don’t hear from them much.”

The Coop, 610 W. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-843-2667; $$

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Another Broken Egg

Gator’s Dockside R

Another Broken Egg’s menu is rooted in Cajun and Creole cookery, which means flavor, flavor and more flavor.

Don’t miss the fried green tomato app or the perfectly melty lobster-andBrie omelet. What the biscuit beignets lack in lightness, they make up for with buttery richness. A full bar slings Bloody Marys and Kahlúa-spiked coffees, and the dark roast is served in earthenware crocks; this place has charm down to a science. 430 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-790-7868; $$

A massive menu that features ribs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and bar favorites, including award-winning wings (served grilled, breaded or Buffalo-style), make this a popular choice to catch a game, or just hang out on the weekend. Multiple locations, gatorsdockside.com; $

BB Junction Local grass-fed beef and a farm-totable approach is the hook, which seems to be working. The bison rules, but be sure to order it “pink.” The No. 6, with an infernal coat of ghostpepper cheese, is a hellaciously good choice. For vegetarians, there’s a house veggie patty and some stellar grilled cheeses; craft beers on tap and house-made desserts make for very happy endings. 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-513-4134; $

Beth’s Burger Bar Being pigeonholed as a late-night pit stop is inevitable when you’re situated in the downtown core and stay open until 3 a.m. on weekends, but Beth’s Burger Bar is worth a visit even during sober daylight hours. Beth’s takes a down-to-earth approach to patty-stacking, eschewing the trend for designer burgers with a thousand toppings in favor of a straight-up, old-school approach with old-school pricing. 24 E. Washington St., 407650-4950; also 5145 S. Orange Ave., 407-888-1190; $

BurgerFi R Winter Park burger joint is loud and proud of its all-natural Angus burgers, though flavors can ebb and tide depending on the choice of patty. The double cheeseburger is stellar; the quinoa burger will appease vegetarians. Also on the menu: Wagyu beef hot dogs and frozen custard “concretes.” Prices are a bit steep, but, hey, rustic-PoMo-industrial decor doesn’t come cheap. 538 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-2010; $$

The Cowfish Sushi Burger Bar In the midst of celebrity-branded restaurants and kiosks slinging theme-park kitsch, the Cowfish fills the need for inventive, delightfully weird cuisine. There’s a menu section for burgers, one for sushi, and a selection of bizarre combinations requiring a suspension of disbelief, like the Buffaloooo-shi burgushi roll: chipotle bison, fried green tomato and feta rolled in crispy tempura flakes.

Somehow, though, it works. Universal Citywalk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407-224-2275; $$$

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Graffiti Junktion R Prodigious patties for the post-grad set seems to be Graffiti Junktion’s function; the crowd is young and the digs run to squatter-chic embellishments. Skip the salad and chili and head straight for the beefed-up burgers, served on homemade buns. A full bar keeps the scene lively and the din uproarious. Multiple locations, graffitijunktion.com; $$

Greens and Grille The salads and sandwiches assembled here are luxurious versions of everyday basics. High standards of quality are apparent in the dressings made from scratch, super-fresh salad ingredients and natural, hormonefree meats grilled to order. Don’t miss the balsamic-braised portobello mushroom or the rich, gooey homemade macaroni and cheese; accompany your meal with a glass of wine or a craft beer. 4104 Millenia Blvd., 407-770-1407; $$

Hamburger Mary’s While diversity is key at this gayfriendly burger joint, the menu is unquestionably all-American. Hefty, gloppy burgers satisfy, as do triangles of addictive fried mac-and-cheese, and meatloaf is a must. Desserts like fried Twinkies and Mary Tyler S’mores will test your ticker. 110 W. Church St., 321-319-0600; $

Hard Rock Cafe With its pillar-studded facade, HRC stands majestically like a Roman Coliseum of rock, boasting more pieces of rock & roll memorabilia than any other Hard Rock. Not only is there a vast, multi-level cafe, but throw in Hard Rock Live Orlando, a 3,000person concert venue, and you’ve got a winner. 6050 Universal Blvd., 407-351-5483; $$

Hubbly Bubbly Falafel Shop R Fast-casual College Park eatery places an emphasis on quality with a focused offering of falafel and spit-fired meats.

Rib-eye/lamb shavings are perfect in pita pockets, as is the turmeric- and paprika-rubbed chicken, though both can be enjoyed in salad or hummus bowls; for the vegans, lentils with caramelized onions are a toothsome protein. Start with fried cauliflower in “Lilly” sauce; for a light capper, the lemon slushy is good sweet fun. 3405 Edgewater Drive, 407-985-5841; $

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JJ’s Grille Whether JJ’s brings a Med influence to fresh-Mex, or a Mex influence to fresh-Med, most will agree that the burritos, rice bowls, pita sandwiches and tabbouleh bowls are equally worthy. A gracious and welcoming staff not only make the fast-casual experience tolerable, but enjoyable. Beer and wine served. Open daily. 2950 Curry Ford Road, 407-802-2947; $

’Kesh Restaurant Eclectic UCF-area resto offers a mishmash of delights to in-the-know patrons, many of whom come for gourmet tacos, stand-out sandwiches, plump Chicago-style hot dogs and home cooking. The Taylor Street beef sandwich and the pork soft tacos with mole and house-made queso crumbles are stellar. If the grilled cornbread is available, order it. Desserts vary, but handspun milkshakes in flavors like rose petal, spicy chocolate almond and peanut butter and ginger are out of the ordinary.

Closed Sundays. 11768 E. Colonial Drive, 407-203-0801; $

Pom Pom’s Teahouse & Sandwicheria R Want interesting sandwiches (Mama Ling Ling’s Thanksgiving is a cult classic, and the yellow curry chicken salad is just plain classic), unusual tea

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CASUAL (raspberry-rose, tiramisu rooibos), killer desserts (lavender-peppercorn crème brûlée), and a cheery, art-filled atmosphere? Find it all here at this Milk District pioneer. Open 24 hours Friday and Saturday. 67 N. Bumby Ave., 407-894-0865; $

Shantell’s Cafe Stylish Sanford soul-food joint sells a 1-pound burger that’ll knock your socks off, though affable proprietor Shantell Williams also perfectly executes chicken and waffles, fried flounder and fried okra. Some items, like a mac-and-cheese-topped portobello mushroom and fried Jamaican beef patties, are atypical but noteworthy nonetheless. Desserts change daily, but whatever Shantell’s got, get it. 417 S. Sanford Ave., Sanford, 407915-5444; $$

Stardust Video & Coffee R Over the years, the Audubon Park stalwart has morphed to serve the changing desires of the community.

Among its many functions (work and study spot, café, farmers market) and despite its ramshackle air, the ’dust is prized by anyone looking for a quality lunch, a late-night snack, or a nice buzzy glow, whether from caffeine or liquor. 1842 E. Winter Park Road, 407-623-3393; $

Tako Cheena R An eclectic offering of tacos, burritos and arepas stuffed with mostly Asian (but also Indian and African) fillings sets this taquería apart from the rest – along with the loud music and edgy art. Empanadas are a must to start, then dive right into the sublime panko-crusted cod taco. Burritos are substantial – don’t pass up the African braised beef, with corn, potatoes and quinoa – and the sauces, especially sweet chili with smoked ghost pepper, are sublime. 932 N. Mills Ave., 321-236-7457; $

That One Spot The drolly named That One Spot is a hipster burger joint right down to the graffiti mural, but that hasn’t scared off the suburbanites. Crowds line up patiently for the spectrum of 13 burgers comprising red meat, other meats and two veggie options. The curry chicken burger has a surprising flavor burst, and the crunch burger was an absolute beauty – it’s the one you’ll be hankering for until your eventual return. 10968 W. Colonial Drive, Ocoee, 407-877-7575; $

Toasted Appealing to the basic human need for cheese and bread, Toasted deserves high praise for their simple,

albeit sleep-inducing curds wedged between grilled artisan bread. The braised brisket-and-fontina and figand-goat are grilled cheese options worth enjoying, as is the herbaceous “holy basil” burger. Even vegans can get in on the fun with house-made vegan cheese and burgers. Open daily. 1945 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-3922; $

Toojay’s Gourmet Deli R Gourmet deli holds its own with regard to tradition, doing justice to chopped liver, matzo-ball soup and cheese blintzes. But the menu opens up to contemporary palates as well with wraps, pastas, omelets and salads. Don’t leave without a big blackand-white cookie. Multiple locations, toojays.com; $

Yellow Dog Eats R The popular Gotha eatery now has a New Smyrna Beach location, where they continue to serve their signature barbecue and unique sandwiches (try the pulled pork with jalapeñofig sauce, or the club sandwich with sweet Thai chili sauce) as well as tacos, nachos, salads and veggie items. 147 Canal St., New Smyrna Beach, 386-410-4824; also 1236 Hempel Ave., Windermere, 407-296-0609; $

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SMOKEY OLD TOM The RUSTY SPOON

House-made rosemary and lemon tinctures are the secret weapon in the Rusty Spoon’s Smokey Old Tom. The drink is built by first misting the inside of a coupe with rosemary tincture, then giving it a rinse of Laphroaig Scotch whisky. Full-bodied Old Tom gin, Dolin Blanc vermouth and a fresh honey syrup made by the bartenders are mixed and poured into the prepared glass, and then a light spritz of lemon tincture across the top adds piquant aromatics to the well-balanced whole.

55 W. Church St., 407-401-8811; therustyspoon.com

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hefs are recalcitrant artists by nature, and some get into the business just to piss someone off. Black Bean Deli’s Andres Corton knew he wanted to cook for a living, but he also wanted to rebel against his parents’ expectations of him. When he and his folks left New Jersey and settled into a neighborhood in East Orlando, Corton’s friend showed him how to fry an egg.

Andres Corton Black Bean Deli R

“Of course I’d seen it a million times, just never like this. My grandmother would fry an egg in olive oil, so it was rather bland, but Eric’s fried egg was cooked in butter, and it was the best fried egg I’ve ever had.” With that, Corton had found his new obsession. He set out to make the perfect buttery fried eggs, omelets, scrambled eggs, egg sandwiches and his mom’s tortilla Española. The latter – a Spanish potato-and-onion omelet cooked on one side in a skillet, then flipped and slid back into the skillet – became his primary fixation. “This is still one of my favorite dishes to eat and cook,” says Corton. “While I didn’t know it at the time, Eric’s fried egg was seriously life-changing.”

Black Bean Deli, 1835 E. Colonial Drive, 407-203-0922; also 325 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-0294; $

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8-8 Panda Neighborhood takeout joint specializes in chifa, a niche cuisine of Peruvian-style Chinese fare that draws a loyal patronage of Latin Americans and expat Limeños. They come for the chaufa, lomo saltado and comforting soups, but those new to the culinary style will find the roast duck and roast pork dishes gratifying. 500 E. Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 321-207-0388; $

Agave Azul A cool blue interior belies the spicy fare served at this trendy taquería.

With 100 brands on hand, tequila is the aperitif of choice, but all good drinks lead to food, and the Tex-Mex dishes served here are done right.

Chunky guacamole, the plato grande (a hungry man’s dish of skirt steak, picadillo enchilada and a superb chicken tamale slathered in mole), and the pastel de piña are all recommended, as are reservations. 4750 S. Kirkman Road, 407-704-6930; $$

Baja Burrito Kitchen Freshness is without question at this fast, healthy spot. Tacos and burritos are packed with the usual suspects – grilled chicken, steak, ground beef – but don’t pass up more creative fillings like flaky white fish, spicy shrimp or grilled portobello mushroom. 2716 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-6112; $

Border Grill This MetroWest taquería is a real find, and once found, a treasure trove of tacos (pibil, chorizo and grilled chicken are our faves), tortas, gorditas, burritos and caldos awaits.

Consider starting with fresh-made guac and ending with homemade flan, no matter how stuffed you feel.

Homemade salsas can be downright infernal, but various aguas frescas (get the watermelon) prove effective extinguishers. 5695 Vineland Road, 407-352-0101; $

Cafe Tu Tu Tango R Artists work while you eat in what’s essentially a mini-gallery, where the mood is festive, even outrageous, and the service is always impressive.

Entree portions are intentionally small; diners are encouraged to order several and swap around the table tapas-style. 8625 International Drive, 407-248-2222; $$$

fish taco in town (and yeah, ante up the annoying extra buck for cheese).

Tequila aficionados can try to work their way through the 80 varieties listed on the board; hard-core partiers can try to work their way through the 244 tequila shots on offer. 50 E. Central Blvd., 407-422-6299; $

Cocina 214 Haute-Texican cuisine with Portuguese flourishes gives cause to visit this industrial-chic Park Avenuearea resto. From skillfully rendered shrimp piri-piri to pollo pibil to duck confit tacos, the kitchen employs a mix of traditional and contemporary methods. Brunch here is one of the few places in town you’ll find authentic migas and chilaquiles. 151 E. Welbourne Ave., Winter Park, 407-790-7997; $$

Colibri Mexican Cuisine Upscale Baldwin Park taquería has honed its act in the kitchen. The mole is bueno, as is luscious chipotle pepper-cream sauce lathered over plump shrimp. Tres leches cake is a decadent capper. 4963 New Broad St., 407-629-6601; $$

Cuba Libre A festive Cuban restaurant and rum bar, serving all your favorites: ceviche, ropa vieja, corn cakes and more. Can’t decide? Try the chef’s tasting menu, featuring 15 items, including appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts, for $40 per person.

9101 International Drive, 407-2261600; $$$.

El Buzo Ceviche is the specialty of this tiny Peruvian cocina, but be sure to start with excellent mussels on the halfshell, dressed with a tangy salsa jacked with aji limo peppers. Grilled beef heart and traditional lomo saltado are worthy turf selections, if you’re not into surf. 1436 N. Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-673-0237; $

El Patron

Crossroads at Lake Buena Vista, 12547 Kissimmee Vineland Road, 407-827-1052; $$

This Mexican kitchen offers traditional dishes, like enchiladas, carne asada and burritos, as well as more creative cuisine, like mussels with chorizo broth, mariscada (anisescented lobster broth with mussels, calamari, shrimp and octopus) and pechuga rellena (chicken breast stuffed with wild mushrooms, plantain, goat cheese and pistachio pipian). 12167 S. Apopka Vineland Road, 407-238-5300; $$

Chico’s Dirty Tacos & Tequila

Gringos Locos R

Downtown Tex-Mex stop serves the closest thing to beach food in a margarita-fueled, Tijuana-wild atmosphere. Go for the mahi-mahi tacos, which can stand up to any

Downtown and Milk District outposts of this taquería are a boon for latenight revelers, offering standard tacos, burritos, chimis and quesadillas. The sizable girth of the chimi and

Chevy’s Fresh Mex

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“1 Night Slam” burrito make them ideal alcohol sponges, and crisp, flaky empanadas are great graband-go items. Skip overdone fish tacos. 20 E. Washington St., 407841-5626; also 2406 E. Robinson St., 407-896-5626; $

La Fiesta Mexican Grill Within La Fiesta’s cozy walls, you’ll find a homey atmosphere and an emphasis on home-style Mexican cooking. The typical vast menu offers all the usual suspects, but executed with care; especially good are tangy enchiladas verde, golden-brown shrimp empanadas and salty, chewy carnitas. Don’t miss the chilaquiles, a comfortfood classic of sautéed corn chips, tomatillo sauce, pulled chicken and cotija. Beer and wine available. 2901 Curry Ford Road, 407-985-4340; $$

Oh! Que Bueno A small Colombian café that specializes in protein: meat, chicken, sausages, seafood. And unless you count rice, corn and red beans, not a veggie in the place.

The carneteria offers authentic traditional dishes done well, as well as enormous combination plates of beef, pork, sausage and the

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LATIN occasional egg. 1125 S. Semoran Blvd., 407-447-5026; $

Paxia Alta Cocina Mexicana & Tequila Lounge College Park eatery leads the charge to bring worthy Mexican cuisine to this city. Try a side of nopalitos – tangy, tender cactus stems with queso fresco – or chiles rellenos like you haven’t had them before: with spicy sauteed shrimp and eggplant and a roasted bell-pepper sauce. Coffee-rubbed rib-eye and char-grilled skirt steak are worthy of signature-dish status. Don’t miss “Pajama Brunch” on Saturday and Sunday. 2611 Edgewater Drive, 407-420-1144; $$

Q’Kenan Among the timeshares and hotels on the southern end of I-Drive, this unusual family Venezuelan joint peeks out of the overwhelming fast-food dining scene. It’s part restaurant and part grocery store and there’s not a whole lot of ambience, but the authentic arepas, empanadas and cachapas are first-rate. Got a big appetite? Try the mixed mountain grill (parrilla tepui mixta) for a super-hearty entree. 8117 Vineland Ave., 407-238-0014; $

Rincon Cubano Cafeteria Down-home Cuban cooking awaits those who take the drive down Forsyth Road; Maria Alfonso brings her diner to life with welcoming exuberance. Empanadas are a must (if they haven’t sold out); meat-lovers will revel in the steak palomilla, churrasco and porktopped mofongo. Breakfast and lunch only. 3327 N. Forsyth Road, Winter Park, 407-679-5600; $

Rocco’s Tacos Top-shelf tequila and thumping music make this Dr. Phillips taquería more bar than restaurant, but there are pockets of goodness to be found on the mostly TexMex menu. Tableside guacamole is tasty; chorizo, spicy beef and mushroom tacos are chompworthy; cheesy corn on the cob and pulled pork enchiladas warrant a try. 7468 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-226-0550; $$

Super Rico Colombian Bistro Food truck fans may remember them as Que Rico Colombian Fast Food, but wheels or no, the Colombian specialties flying onto your table at this tiny downtown spot will keep you in your seat.

Beef and grilled onion-topped

patacones (somewhat similar to tostones), pintxos (grilled meat skewers) and bright-yellow cheese empanadas are tasty; the arepa burger is not to be missed. 57 W. Central Blvd., 407-426-7007; $

Wall Street Cantina

The slightly funky location at Orange Avenue and Wall Street rescues this streetside eatery from too-calculated hipness. Basic Tex-Mex favorites – tacos, burritos, nachos, bowls – are heaped with pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream and are absolutely delicious.

Stellar salads and grilled sandwiches round out the offerings. 19 N. Orange Ave., 407-420-1515; $

Zaza New Cuban Diner R The new location in Altamonte Springs should prove to be just as popular as the original, serving classic renditions of Cuban comfort food. The kitchen dishes out affordable, bountiful dinner plates and some of the finest café con leche north of Key West. Flaky, buttery homemade guava-andcream cheese pastries make for a sweet finish. 3500 Curry Ford Road, 407-228-0060; also 380 S. State Road 434, Altamonte Springs, 407-347-6606; $

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FOOD TO DRINK BY

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elebrity chef Kevin Dundon of Downtown Disney’s Raglan Road gives full credit to the independent hospitality guide Georgina Campbell’s Ireland for putting his name on the proverbial map.

In 2007, the influential publication named Dundon’s “Roast Rack of Lamb in Irish Stew Consommé” Irish Dish of the Year. For Dundon, it was an affirmation of his personal food ethos, and a defining moment in his career.

“It was the recognition of my innova innovative culinary style, my more natural approach to cooking indigenous ingredients and really letting the food speak for itself,” says Dundon. Since then, he’s been recognized the world over through his books and televi television series and appearances, but he still looks back at that unforgettable moment in 2007 with a particular fondness: “That’s when I knew that the dedication, long hours, stress and strains of becoming a chef was all worthwhile.”

Raglan Road Irish Pub, 1640 E. Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-938-0300; $$$

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Kevin Dundon Raglan Road Irish Pub

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FOOD TO DRINK BY The Church Street Tavern We love the Rust Belt vibe at this Pittsburgh-inspired spot downtown.

Such hearty fare as kielbasa sliders, Cincinnati chili (that’s five ways, for you Southern folk), cheesesteaks, chili fries and pierogis are the foundation of the menu, and there are five different kinds of fries to choose from. Five.

Different. Kinds. 120 W. Church St., 407-985-5833; $$

Colonial Lanes R There’s nothing pretentious on the menu here – it’s a lounge and bowling alley, after all – but there’s more variety than you might expect. Onion rings, fries and wings, as well as soups, sandwiches, burgers and pizzas round out the extremely affordable munchies menu. 400 N. Primrose Drive, 407-894-0361; $

Crafted Block & Brew Equal parts craft beer joint, sports bar and restaurant, Crafted serves modern pub-grub fare highlighted by a decent selection of messy burgers fashioned from a short rib-brisket-chuck mix.

There’s a nice selection of craft brews available on tap or by the bottle. 2417 Hiawassee Road, 407-601-6887; $$

Frank & Steins Hot dogs and craft beer (franks and steins, get it?) are the signature menu items. There’s an entire menu dedicated to signature franks (spicy Cubano dogs, classic Coney Island dogs, Polish sausages and veggie dogs, among others), and 300plus beers to pair them with. 150 S. Magnolia Ave., 407-412-9230; also 200 W. Fairbanks Ave, Winter Park, 407-636-6757; $

The Geek Easy R The menu is satisfyingly simple as well as refreshingly cheap: cheeseburgers, pizza burgers, veggie burgers and six different kinds of grilled cheese, all priced at $7 and under, as well as specialty drinks, beer, sake and nonalcoholic beverages. 114 S. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-332-9636; $

The Gnarly Barley A roadhouse that just so happens to serve great food, the Belle Isle brew pub features obscure and wonderful beers and a menu full of hangover preventers like the “Johnnie Mac ’n Cheese” sandwich, a bombshell take on the French dip. 7431 S. Orange Ave., 407-854-4999; $

The Hammered Lamb A gorgeous patio with a full bar and 16 beers on draft offers views of Lake Ivanhoe on one side, and the roar of the train tracks on the other (but don’t worry, when the locomotive goes rushing by, the bartender hands out train shots). If you start to feel peckish while you party, peruse a

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menu full of creative sandwiches and wraps. 1235 N. Orange Ave., 407-7043200; $

Oblivion Taproom R One of the city’s better beer bars sits, unexpectedly, on a forgettable strip of Colonial Drive. Even with 40 beers on tap, it’s the meaty bar bites (inventive burgers, especially) that set this place apart from the rest. Don’t overlook crisp battered-and-fried items or tots with house-made ketchup. Vegan and veggie options are plentiful. 5101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-802-4800; $$

The Porch Winter Park sports bar can get cacophonous at times, but the eclectic crowd seems to enjoy sipping on cocktails, downing beers and watching football – the fact that the food here is decent is a bonus. Try the stuffing waffle topped with mashed potatoes, roasted turkey and gravy.

Enter through the parking lot shared with the Meat House. 643 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-571-9101; $

The Smiling Bison Meat matters to chef Josh Oakley, a fact made clear after just one bite of the pork cheek tamale or bison burger; the duck lovers’ pizza (with duck confit, duck ham and a duck egg) is not to be missed. There’s a great selection of craft brews, including Cask & Larder and Cigar City.

Late-night menu available after 10 p.m. Closed Mondays. 745 Bennett Road, 407-898-8580; $$

Sportstown Billiards R A linchpin of the Milk District, Sportstown has a little something for everyone. Plentiful beer options are inexpensive, and rental prices for pool tables and other games won’t break the bank, either. Plus, the steak sub with horseradish and Swiss cheese is an unsung hero. 2414 E Robinson St., 407-894-6258; $

Tasty Tuesdays Every Tuesday night at 6:30 p.m., an army of food trucks descends on the Milk District, creating an open-air cafeteria serving everything from sushi to Korean food to desserts. Choose your truck, get your food, then head inside to Spacebar, Milk Bar or Sandwich Bar for seating and drinks. 2432 E. Robinson St., 407-895-6363; $

The Wine Barn Whether you’re a wine aficionado or a pizza snob, this Fairbanks Avenue market-pizzeria is a must-stop. The 600-plus-bottle wine selection is primarily of the boutique and smallvineyard variety, while their pies are wood-fired, perfectly blistered and have just the right amount of give.

959 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-9463; $$

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GET HER TO THE GREEK The Lobby Bar

Dairy in your cocktail? Cream does great things in a White Russian, as do egg whites in a Pisco Sour, but using Greek yogurt in an alcoholic beverage sounds a little iffy. However, misgivings will be swept away by this mix of dark chocolate, raspberry and yogurt on a base of St. Augustine Distillery’s Florida cane vodka. You won’t find the sweet, foamy concoction on the menu, though – it’s a specialty of bartender Ryan Wolfe, and you can only order it when he’s behind the stick.

Four Seasons Resort, 10100 Dream Tree Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-313-7777; fourseasons.com/orlando

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HEALTHY RESTAURANTS

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n 2006, while honeymooning in Vienna with his wife (and Ethos co-owner), Laina, chef Kelly Shockley experienced a gastronomic epiphany of sorts. He enjoyed a dish – a vegan pepper steak with red wine sauce he ate at a vegetarian café called Bio Bar – so much that it opened his eyes to how plant-based fare should be prepared.

“Vegan food back then was very tame and lacked any sort of flavor or creativity,” he recalls, “but this had to be the best vegan food I had ever eaten. The dish knocked it out of the park!”

At the time Ethos Vegan Kitchen was but an unformed dream, but the experience at Bio Bar was such a positive one for the Shockleys, and the vibe so congenial, that it inspired them to open an all-vegan restaurant with the same positive energy as that Viennese café right here in Orlando. Ethos has since become staple stomping grounds for Central Florida vegans and the people who love them.

Ethos Vegan Kitchen, 601-B S. New York Ave., Winter Park, 407-228-3898; $

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Dandelion Communitea CafE R

Infusion Tea R

More than 30 organic loose-leaf teas are offered at this socially conscious teahouse that’s become a gathering ground for nonconformists, neo-cons and everyone in between. A predominantly vegan menu of wraps, salads and an outstandingly hearty chili will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. Start with garlicky hummus with hemp seeds, “roll or bowl” a variety of veggie-grain combos, and finish with the fluffernutter sandwich – a sweet proposition. 618 N. Thornton Ave., 407-362-1864; $

Some special places offer more than what’s on the table, and while the teas and creative vegan and vegetarian snacks are wonderful here, just as much nourishment comes from the “third place” environment created

by Christina and Brad Cowherd. If they’re on the seasonal menu, don’t miss cauliflower-chickpea tacos. 1600 Edgewater Drive, 407-999-5255; $

Freshii Quinoa lovers, rejoice! Freshii, a Toronto-based fast-casual joint, focuses on making healthy eats affordable and convenient. The menu comprises salads, soups, wraps, burritos and noodle, rice or quinoa bowls, all topped with fresh ingredients (with the exception of the hormone- and antibiotic-free meats, which are precooked and shipped in). Smoothies, especially the mint-pineapple-coconut Powerhouse, are terrific. Friendly staff in an eco-friendly space. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-203-8856; $

Extract Juice and Tapas Bar Hannibal Square juice bar is the place to come for fresh juices with intriguing ingredients (Brussels sprouts, broccoli, habañero peppers), but the fare is equally notable. If you can stop pawing the addictive cayennebrown sugar popcorn, you’ll delight in their pita pizzas, Thai pineapple lettuce wraps, ahi nachos and honeybalsamic goat cheese dip. Owners are laid-back and generous, so don’t be surprised if you see some freebies come your way. 400 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-960-6988; also 101 S. Garland Ave.; $

Garden Cafe The creative kitchen works exclusively with meatless options to create satisfyingly deceptive Asian dishes like orange chicken and salt-and-pepper “ribs.” Some fool the taste buds while others need a die-hard vegetarian’s appreciation, but you won’t find a more satisfyingly toothsome stir fry than the Hong Kong style “eel” or satay “lamb” anywhere. 810 W. Colonial Drive, 407-999-9799; $$

House Blend Cafe Lattes and cappuccinos aren’t the only items worth sampling here.

Above-average café fare includes burritos, sandwiches and waffles, not to mention freshly made desserts. All of HBC’s profits go toward community service projects in Orange County and around the world. Customers are encouraged to help out, so be sure to inquire if interested in more than just a cup of joe. 10730 W. Colonial Drive, Ocoee, 407-656-7676; $

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Loving Hut The tiny building is a sparkling-white temple of oddly delicious vegan dining. The environmentally friendly Loving Hut offers a win-win proposition: Along with more typical Asian options like “noble rice” and “saintly stir-fry,” the menu is stocked with snacks like cheesecake, “golden nuggets” and “happy dogs,” but it’s all vegan. 2101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5673; $

Power House Cafe Founded in 1970, the simple eatery with an active lunch counter is what used to be called a “health-food restaurant.” A Middle Eastern focus shows in the fattoush, tabbouleh and shawarma on offer, but the menu is mostly skewed toward healthy, natural proteins and salads, along with the delicacy that single-handedly revived the blender – the smoothie. 111 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-6453616; $

Skyebird Juice Bar & Experimental Kitchen R Cold-pressed juice, kombucha and kale chips are just a few of the raw concoctions you’ll find at the Skyebird stall at East End Market – all made from organic, non-GMO produce. The starfruit kombucha is a favorite, as is the Thai Hot, a spicy green juice; don’t miss the avocado salad, served in Mason jars with a generous pile of the house-fermented kimchi. 3201 Corinne Drive, 407-960-2861; $$

The Smoothie Room Experience fresh, no-additives vegetable-and-fruit juices and smoothies without having to get out the peeler or clean the juicer. Whether you think fresh juice offers health benefits or just like the way it tastes, raw foodists, vegans, vegetarians and omnivores will all find something to love at this art-filled SoDo hangout. 25 W. Crystal Lake St., 407-250-4894; $

Vitality Bistro There’s something for everyone at this cheery café. Veggie burgers, soups and pastas fill the extensive menu; Sunday brunch is extra festive, with pancakes, French toast, breakfast burritos and even mimosas stirred up with organic champagne and organic OJ. 301 N. Baker St., Mount Dora, 352735-8411; $$

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MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANTS

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aving grown up in the small mountain village of Yaroun in southern Lebanon, Violette Haddad gained much of her culinary technique, style and prowess from her mother and grandmother, but it wasn’t until she moved to Miami that her career as a chef took off. “I became known in my social circle for preparing extraordinary foods,” states Haddad, “so at the urging of some friends, I started catering with foods learned from my mother and grandmother and they were an instant hit.” Haddad credits a good part of her success to her “authentic” falafel and kibbeh.

“Each takes hours to make,” she says, “and I’m so particular about the preparation that I do all the work myself.” No doubt, if you’ve been to Maraya at Sabrina’s Restaurant, you know the great care Haddad takes in preparing both – and you know that you’d be hard-pressed to find better ones in the city. “I’m sure you’ll find my falafel and kibbeh exceedingly good,” she says confidently, and we’re sure you will too.

Maraya at Sabrina’s Restaurant, 8100 Crystal Clear Lane, 407-856-8155; $$$

VIOLETTE HADDAD MARAYA at SABRINA’S RESTAURANT

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Ali Baba House of Kabob An oasis of tantalizing flavors. Ali Baba’s Persian entrees include a variety of shish kebabs along with familiar Middle Eastern dishes. A buffet is offered at both lunch and dinner.

Inside the restaurant is the Persian Room, an intimate space offering dinner and entertainment ranging from dancers to cabaret singers to magicians. 1155 W. State Road 434, Longwood, 407-331-8680; $

sorts of prepared food ready to take home) and lunch counter. A gaggle of smiling, gregarious women serve some of the best shawarma in town, sided with refreshing tomato-andcucumber salad garlicky enough to ward off the undead. 8100 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-855-6555; $

Nar Mediterranean Grill

Bosphorous serves delightful fare with many lamb, eggplant and yogurtcentered dishes. Not only is the food superb, it’s also a nice place to sit while smoking scented tobacco from their water pipes and/or enjoying a glass of Turkish wine. 108 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-8609; also 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-352-6766; $$$

Create your own meal: Choose a protein and stuff it in a sandwich, layer it on top of rice and two sides, or have it atop a salad. Those proteins include falafel, doner kebab, and lamb, beef and chicken kofte. Of the several side-dish choices, pass over unremarkable roasted vegetables and go for cumin-seasoned bean salad or lemony tomato-cucumber salad.

Portions are gigantic, but don’t skip dessert: Turkish rice pudding or buttery baklava. 3402 Technological Ave., 407-277-4774; $

Cedar’s Restaurant

Olea Mezze Grill

Their spin on traditional Lebanese food is a lightness of texture and flavor that is both refreshing and inviting. Use the hot, puffy house-baked lavash bread to scoop up baba ghanoush topped with pickled walnuts; kibbeh are crunchy-fabulous. Top off your meal with a hookah on the patio.

7732 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-3516000; $$$

Olea, a fresh-casual Greek joint, is part of the new breed of eateries bent on made-from-scratch offerings and superior customer service. Start with grape leaves imported from Greece and end with heavenly baklava from Hellas Bakery in Tarpon Springs. In between, take your pick from rice or couscous bowls, salad bowls or pita sandwiches. The trick is to temper your desire to top your bowl (or stuff your pita) with any and all available items. 400 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-335-4958; $

Bosphorous Turkish Cuisine R

The Greek Corner R The view of the downtown skyline is spectacular from this nook on Orange Avenue across from Lake Ivanhoe.

Dining outside is a must, as is the hearty meze platter, with a sampling of enough Greek specialties – baked feta, gyro meat, braised lamb and traditional salads melitzanosalat and taramosalata – to satisfy the gods on Mount Olympus. 1600 N. Orange Ave., 407-228-0303; $$

Mediterranean Blue R Familiar South Orlando Greek spot offers a deceptively simple menu, but nearly everything on it is a winner.

The Provence sandwich is a delicious trip across the salty-savory spectrum, and falafel gets extra points for fresh, soft pita and house-made tzatziki sauce. 435 E. Michigan St., 407-4222583; $$

Mediterranean Deli An oasis of authenticity, complete with odd decorations, exhilaratingly exotic smells and hearty but inexpensive meals. You’ll find perfect hummus, superior kibbeh and superb gyros, not to mention one of the best spinach pies around. A top spot to eat for $10 or less. 981 W. Fairbanks Ave., 407-539-2650; $

Middle East Market & Deli OBT spot is equal parts specialty grocery store, hookah supply, deli (all

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Shiraz Grill Filet mignon and chicken kebabs steal the show, but perfumed plates of barberry-jeweled pilaf with luxuriant Persian stews are also outstanding. A smoky starter of pureed aubergines drizzled with cream of whey is as dipworthy as any hummus. Get closure with a glacial orb of syrupy-sweet falooda. 6427 Westwood Blvd., 407284-1273; $$

Taboon Bistro Authentic Mediterranean favorites, including makanek, shawarma, kafta, kabobs, kibbeh and fattoush, round out the menu at this upscale bistro.

You can also order seafood, steak or vegetarian items, as well as plenty of mezza (small plates or appetizers), perfect for pairing with wine or cocktails. 5911 Turkey Lake Road, 407270-4848; $$

Theo’s Kitchen Head into this tiny spot for the superbly seasoned fried chicken – everyone else does. But the lamb gyros, stuffed grape leaves, hummus, falafel and other Syrian/Greek standbys are just as worthy. Prices are dirtcheap, and everything is seasoned to perfection. 2952 Curry Ford Road, 407-849-0810; $

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INDIAN RESTAURANTS

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hen Asif Fazal’s family moved to Orlando from New York, it initiated a series of events the 13-year-old couldn’t possibly have envisioned. For one, his father left the printing business in favor of opening an Indian restaurant, and Fazal ended up helping out wherever he could, be it greeting guests or doing prep duties. When he settled at the tandoor station, “the heart of the kitchen,” says Fazal, he learned the ways of the tandoori marinade and the time-honored method of baking chicken in a cylindrical clay oven. “There was something about how all the ingredients came together in a simple yet complementing arrangement that fascinated me.”

ASIF FAZAL FRESH DABBA

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Soon after Fazal left for college, his father was diagnosed with cancer, and he left school: “I decided my place was to be back home.” When his father passed away in the summer of 2012, it shook his family to the core, but Fazal sought comfort, and support, in the kitchen. “Food was what we came to know and love,” he says, “and I came to understand the passion my father had for bringing authentic flavors and excellent service to our guests.” And Fazal’s Fresh Dabba delivery operation, which draws inspiration from the dabbawallas who transport fresh-cooked meals to homes and offices across the Indian subcontinent, does just that. “It takes me back to when it all started, 15 years ago in front of that tandoor.”

Fresh Dabba, freshdabba.com; $

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INDIAN

MYNT Aroma Indian Cuisine

Moghul Indian Cuisine R

Aroma places a focus on customer service and offers the fortunate denizens of Lake Mary some of the finest Indian food in the Orlando area. Kebabs sizzling from the tandoor are a must, while vegetarians need not look past the puri and okra curry. Looking to raise your cholesterol? Consider the house specialty butter chicken, then cap it off with creamy frozen kulfi. 4275 W. Lake Mary Blvd., Lake Mary, 321-283-0242; $$

Winter Park gets its own Indian restaurant, though don’t expect anything too exotic: Tried-and-true standards define Moghul’s kitchen, especially superb chicken tikka and seekh kebabs. Ghee-slicked peshawari naan are buttery, nutty and delightfully sweet wonders.

Note: Ordering dishes “Indian hot” amounts to infernal. Closed Mondays. 401 N. Semoran Blvd., 407-599-9001; $$

Mynt Bombay CafE This sanctuary of South Indian fare gives Woodlands a run for its money with infernal vegetarian curries, enormous dosas and comforting flatbreads. Chaats (crunchy snack mixes) offer textural diversity with varying levels of heat. Lunch thalis are available Monday to Sunday. 1137 Doss Ave., 407-240-5151; $

Bombay Grill Inside one of the city’s most popular Indian grocers sits a grill serving up fresh-from-the-butcher meats at prices that can’t be beat.

Grilled lamb chops are sublimely succulent, and plush beef kebabs and flavorful minced lamb are just as exceptional. But there’s not much here for the meat-free crowd. 11741 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-203-6988; $

Khasiyat Most people come to this humble vegetarian hideaway for the cheap lunch buffet – well-stocked with five different curries – but the real star is the selection of savory Indian snacks. Can’t-miss offerings: enormous, not-at-all-greasy dosai masala and addictive bhel puri.

Wash it all down with a Limca, the official soft drink of the subcontinent. 852 W. Lancaster Road, 407-888-2147; $

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Understatedly elegant Indian joint brings standard curry house fare guised as haute cuisine to Hannibal Square. Flavors work in such dishes as uttapham sliders, but fancy plating makes for impractical eating. There are plenty of options on the menu: creamy, subtly sweet lamb pasanda, flaky lacha paratha, and Cochin fish curry – a bowlful of rich, spicy comfort food. Open daily. 535 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-636-7055; $$$

Tamarind Indian Cuisine R Tamarind’s familiar, fiery and focused dishes are worthy of Subcontinental food cravings.

Dosai and sizzling tandoor-fired lamb chops are the way to start; end with falooda kulfi, ice cream made of condensed milk, rose syrup and crushed pistachios.

501 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-207-0760; also 12309 E. Colonial Drive, 407-237-0920; $$

Woodlands R Pure vegetarian Southern Indian delicacies hit every part of the tongue with equal splendor. Go straight for the thali specials for a bit of everything, or savor Tamil specialties like enormous, crispy, masala-stuffed dosai served with fresh coconut chutney. 6040 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-854-3330; $$

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STRAWBERRY GIn JAM

Don’t be fooled by that innocent pink hue.

RusTeak’s Strawberry Gin Jam is a fresh, puckery quaff of the chef’s local strawberry shrub, muddled with whole fruit into a shaken blend of house-made sweet and sour mix, egg white and Uncle Val’s gin. It’s summer in a Mason-jar mug.

RUSTEAK

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2625 Edgewater Drive, 407-540-1100; also 1568 Maguire Road, Ocoee, 407-614-3765; rusteakwinebar.com

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Food & DRINK FESTIVALS the Great orlando Mixer Whiskey Business May 15, 2015 whiskeybusinessorlando.com

Walt disney World sWan and dolphin food & Wine ClassiC

heart of florida united Way Chef’s Gala

Oct. 30-31, 2015 swandolphinfoodandwineclassic.com

May 16, 2015 hfuw.org

Greek fest Nov. 6-8, 2015

lakeridGe Winery annual harvest festival

orlandogreekfest.com

June 12-14, 2015

Winter park harvest festival

lakeridgewinery.com

alocalfolkus.com

Bite niGht

doWntoWn food & Wine fest

June 29, 2015

downtownfoodandwinefest.cbslocal.com

bitenightorlando.com

orlando Chili Cookoff orlando taste of the nation

orlandochilicookoff.com

Aug. 8, 2015 ce.strength.org/orlando

the Great orlando Mixer thegreatorlandomixer.com

epCot food & Wine festival apC national pie ChaMpionships

wdwinfo.com

piecouncil.org

latin food & Wine festival

taste of Winter park

Oct. 18, 2015

facebook.com/tasteofwinterpark

latinfoodandwine.com

taste of ColleGe park Central florida veGfest

collegeparkrotary.org

Oct. 24, 2015 cfvegfest.org

taste of pointe orlando pointeorlando.com

CoWs ’n CaBs

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Oct. 24, 2015

doWntoWn pour

cowsncabs.com

facebook.com/downtownpour

PHOTO BY THuYvi GATeS

Sept. 25-Nov. 16, 2015

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