Recently Reviewed: short takes

recently reviewed

$10 OR LESS $10-$15 $15-$25 $25 OR MORE

The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com

MILD TO WILD ICE CREAM

Ice cream “tavern” situated inside Baldwin Park’s Galeria restaurant offers boozy (“Wild”) and non-boozy (“Mild”) ice creams, floats and milkshakes. They’re tasty, but what it really has going for it is the view of Lake Baldwin. Open daily. (reviewed Sept. 1) 4979 New Broad St., 407-818-6647, mildtowildicecream.com, $$

THE 808

The Hawaiian-themed eatery in the old Dexter’s space brings everything from kalua pork to Spam musubi to Thornton Park. There are decent poke bowls to be had, as well as handhelds like the chicken sandwich with sweetish huli-huli sauce and various burgers. Cocktails are unpretentious and refreshingly fruity. Open daily. (reviewed Aug. 18) 808 E. Washington St., 407-440-4079, the808orlando.com, $$

NICK FILET

The first Nick Filet outside the Philly/ Jersey Shore area graces Orlando, and it’s all about the pricey filet mignon sandwiches. Here you can get 16 ounces of filet mignon stuffed into a Kaiser roll for $30, though half- and quarter-pound versions are also on the menu for more reasonable prices. Lobster rolls are also offered, as are tasty Old Bay tater tots, mac & cheese, and grilled cheese sandwiches. (reviewed Aug. 11) 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-250-6588, nickfilet. com, $$$

THE MONROE

The latest offering from Jason and Sue Chin is arguably their prettiest and their most accessible. The Creative Village restaurant presents modern comfort fare courtesy of chef Josh Oakley, who garnered a following after opening the Smiling Bison. Fried chicken, pastrami corn dogs and chicken waffles are all worth ordering, but the must-try dishes are jerk-spiced chicken hearts and duck served with sour cherry-scallion relish

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spooned over Murasaki sweet potatoes. “The perfect cheesecake” lives up to the hype. Open daily. (reviewed Aug. 4) 448 N. Terry Ave., 407-734-2102, themonroeorlando.com, $$$$

HANGRY DOBO

You’ll feel the love as soon as you enter the restaurant, nestled in the Collegiate Way plaza at the corner of University Boulevard and Alafaya Trail. A warm welcome awaits from behind the cafeteriastyle steam table, laden with up to 10 rotating Filipino delicacies (from garlicky chicken adobo to crispy deep-fried pork belly) waiting to be served with rice or pancit. A little nervous about trying the pork shoulder stewed with serrano chilies and thickened with pork blood called dinuguan? Just ask for a little taste before committing. (reviewed July 28) 12140 Collegiate Way, 407-270-6001, hangrydobo.com, $$

TAJINE XPRESS

The staples served at Tajine Xpress comprise all the heartwarming comfort one would expect from a Moroccan restaurant, from flaky bastille and briwat to the superb tajines, most notably lemon chicken and goat curry. The kebab trio of chicken, shrimp and kefta (ground beef) couldn’t be cooked any better — be sure to enjoy them with eggplant zalouk and fiery harissa. Start and end with a pot of Moroccan mint tea. Closed Mondays. (reviewed July 21) 971 N. Goldenrod Road, 407-233-4179, tajinexpress.com, $$

CHICAGO DOG & CO.

Altamonte Springs hot dog stand lures Midwesterners in with legit Chicago-style dogs, Polish sausages and hot Italian beef sandwiches — even pizza puffs. Avoid the poutine and stick with the cheese fries. Closed Monday. (reviewed July 14) 1113 W. State Road 436, Altamonte Springs, 407335-4010, chicagodogandco.com, $

THE BRIDGE

The Bridge brands itself as “A New York Restaurant,” but sift through the menu and you’ll find gems with Turkish roots, like the “Bridge Special,” a kebab platter of gorgeous lamb chops, mini beef sausages and brochettes of seasoned filet mignon and chicken served over lavash and served with bulgur and seasonal vegetables. There’s also the “Brooklyn Shepherd,” a salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, parsley, feta, grape leaves and unpitted Manzanilla olives. Yes, the burgers are all fine and well (there’s even one layered with 24k gold leaf), but the Bridge should really embrace its Turkish roots. Open daily. (reviewed July 7) 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-755-3300, thebridgerestaurant.com, $$$ n