Recently Reviewed: short takes from recent visits

recently reviewed

$10 OR LESS $10-$15 $15-$25 $25 OR MORE

The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com

THE MONROE

The latest offering from Jason and Sue Chin is arguably their prettiest and their most accessible. The Creative Village restaurant presents modern comfort fare courtesy of chef Josh Oakley, who garnered a following after opening the Smiling Bison. Fried chicken, pastrami corn dogs and chicken waffles are all worth ordering, but the must-try dishes are jerk-spiced chicken hearts and duck served with sour cherry-scallion relish spooned over Murasaki sweet potatoes. “The perfect cheesecake” lives up to the hype. Open daily. (reviewed Aug. 4) 448 N. Terry Ave., 407-734-2102, themonroeorlando.com, $$$$

HANGRY DOBO

You’ll feel the love as soon as you enter the restaurant, nestled in the Collegiate Way plaza at the corner of University Boulevard and Alafaya Trail. A warm welcome awaits from behind the cafeteria-style steam table, laden with up to 10 rotating Filipino delicacies (from garlicky chicken adobo to crispy deepfried pork belly) waiting to be served with rice or pancit. A little nervous about trying the pork shoulder stewed with serrano chilies and thickened with pork blood called dinuguan? Just ask for a little taste before committing. Samples are given with pleasure. (reviewed July 28) 12140 Collegiate Way, 407-270-6001, hangrydobo.com, $$

TAJINE XPRESS

The staples served at Tajine Xpress comprise all the heartwarming comfort one would expect from a Moroccan restaurant, from flaky bastille and briwat to the superb tajines, most notably lemon chicken and goat curry. The kebab trio of chicken, shrimp and kefta (ground beef) couldn’t be cooked any better — be sure to enjoy them with eggplant zalouk and fiery harissa. Start and end with a pot of Moroccan mint tea. Closed Mondays. (reviewed July 21) 971 N. Goldenrod Road, 407-233-4179, tajinexpress.com, $$

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CHICAGO DOG & CO.

Altamonte Springs hot dog stand lures Midwesterners in with legit Chicago-style dogs, Polish sausages and hot Italian beef sandwiches — even pizza puffs. Avoid the poutine and stick with the cheese fries. Closed Monday. (reviewed July 14) 1113 W. State Road 436, Altamonte Springs, 407335-4010, chicagodogandco.com, $

THE BRIDGE

The Bridge brands itself as “A New York Restaurant,” but sift through the unfocused, and pricey, menu and you’ll find gems with Turkish roots, like the “Bridge Special,” a kebab platter of gorgeous lamb chops, mini beef sausages and brochettes of seasoned filet mignon and chicken served over lavash and served with bulgur and seasonal vegetables. There’s also the “Brooklyn Shepherd,” a salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, parsley, feta, grape leaves and unpitted Manzanilla olives. Yes, the burgers are all fine and well (there’s even one layered with 24k gold leaf), but the Bridge should really embrace its Turkish roots. Open daily. (reviewed July 7) 155 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-755-3300, thebridgerestaurant.com, $$$

WINTER PARK BISCUIT CO.

The all-vegan Southern diner inside East End Market is known for its oat buttermilk biscuits, but the burgers (diaper-wrapped à la In-N-Out) stand up to any being served in town, plant-based or otherwise. The crunch of the Death Valley chik sandwich really impresses, as do the fries cooked in peanut oil. Open daily. (reviewed June 30) 3201 Corrine Drive, winterparkbiscuitco.com, $$

SOSEKI

Cozy 10-seat “modern omakase” in Winter Park offers a refined dining experience fusing global cuisine and Japanese-forward sushi-nigiri courses with a European-style degustation service. Dinner only. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. (reviewed June 23) 955 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-9847869, sosekifl.com, $$$$

KOMBU SUSHI RAMEN

In a less-glamorous, half-forgotten strip of Winter Park, Kombu Sushi Ramen maintains a fittingly low profile, serving a so-so mix of sushi, ramen and donburi. Kombu likely won’t be mentioned among the city’s elite sushi or ramen spots, but it’s bringing a foodie-fave cuisine to a neglected sector, and as local tastes are elevated, the kitchen may rise to meet them. Closed Mondays. (reviewed June 16) 7325 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 321-9729965, facebook.com/kombusushiramen, $$ n