Recently Reviewed

from Orlando Weekly - April 13, 2022

Informed Dissent

EDITED BY JESSICA BRYCE YOUNG

$10 OR LESS $10-$15 $15-$25 $25 OR MORE

The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds more reviews at orlandoweekly.com

OOTOYA SUSHI LOUNGE

Thornton Park sushi joint appeases both sushi purists and roll wreckers with a mix of traditional Japanese fare and a slew of makizushi offerings. Can’t-miss menu items include the bluefin tuna trio, black cod slicked in saikyo miso, and blue crab fried rice. Open daily. (reviewed April 6) 621 E. Central Blvd., 407-930-2002, ootoyasushilounge.com, $$$

TWENTY PHO HOUR

It’s easy to be enamored by the monochromatic optics inside this 2D noodle bar (touted as America’s first), but it’s the boffo bowls of pho that really hold your gaze. You can go traditional with simple and satisfying pho tai, or bling it up proper with the “Pho King,” a $45 soup with filet mignon, lobster and foie gras. The Shanghai dumpling pho is another winner, as are the spicy pork dumplings. Open 24 hours on Fridays and Saturdays. (reviewed March 30) 11951 International Drive, 407-788-1201, twentypho-hour.com, $$$

14 BIS PIZZERIA

The aviation-themed pizzeria has a geekycool interior, but it’s the sugar-crusted pizzas that lure in scores of Brazilian pizza hounds. Toppings range from the unorthodox (sweet corn, catupiry, olives with pits) to the traditional, but you’ll want to use a fork and knife. Smaller topping-filled sfihas are also a draw and make ideal dessert endings. Closed Monday. (reviewed March 23) 2869 Wilshire Drive, 407-777-1414, 14bispizzeria.com, $$

YUMMY TASTE

Sichuan restaurant in East Orlando does all the fiery staples of the regional Chinese cuisine well — from la zi ji chicken to sourand-spicy slivered potatoes. Indulging in an infernal bowl of “boiled pots fish” is worth a visit alone, though the less volcanic “beef fillets with tofu pudding” will induce vigorous scarfing as well. Some vegan options from the space’s predecessor are also offered. Closed Monday. (reviewed March 16) 504 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-8662199, yummytasteorlando.com, $$$

FOUR FLAMINGOS

Deft and playful Floribbean creations envisioned by Top Chef: All-Stars winner Richard Blais are the draw at this restaurant inside the Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress. Molecular theatrics play an active role in the food and cocktails, but those shying away from the chemical chicanery (grilled lobster, tilefish beurre blanc and seafood moqueca) tend to be most gratifying. Desserts are a must, especially the gorgeous Key lime blossom pie. (reviewed March 9) Hyatt Regency Grand Cypress, 1 Grand Cypress Blvd., 407-239-1234, fourflamingosorlando. com, $$$$

JAM HOT CHICKEN

Nashville hot chicken gets the gentrified treatment in gentrified Hannibal Square, and it’s a poultry pyro’s dream: Bell & Evans chicken kicked with habañero, ghost and Carolina Reaper peppers. Sides like crinklecut pickles, mayo-free slaw and comforting mac & cheese topped with dry bake are top-notch. Closed Monday and Tuesday. (reviewed Feb. 23) 400 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, jamhotchickenfl.com, $$

ISTANBUL GRILL

The grilled meats at this unfussy South OBT restaurant rival those of any other Turkish kebab house in the city — well-seasoned lamb kofta, piquant adana and plush tenderloin especially. Lamb chops are also superb, as is the cheesy sujuk pide dotted with fat rounds of sausage. Open daily. (reviewed Feb. 16) 9428 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-286-0887, istanbulgrillorlando. com, $$$

THE HALL ON THE YARD

Dazzling grub hub in Ivanhoe Village brings upscale vibes (and prices) to the food hall experience. Nine concepts are housed within its gilded walls, each specializing in its own cuisine — vegan, Hawaiian, pan-Latin, panAsian, gourmet, Southern, baked goods, Indian and Caribbean, plus a beer garden and an inside-outside cocktail bar. It’s full service, so be sure to check in with the host. Open daily. (reviewed Feb. 9) 1412 Alden Road, 407-887-4255, thehallontheyard.com, $$-$$$$

1921 MOUNT DORA

The Mount Dora stunner maintains a steadfast dedication to showcasing Florida ingredients, but with a new level of artistry thanks to chef Chris Edwards and his team. From seared diver scallops to oak-fired chicken glazed in peanut bulgogi to coffeerubbed venison, the dishes dazzle, and the wine list is still one of the best in the state. Closed Mondays. (reviewed Feb. 2) 142 E. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-385-1921, 1921mountdora.com, $$$$

SOUPA SAIYAN 3

Soupakase, a sub-concept at noodle house Soupa Saiyan 3, offers the best value for an omakase in the city. Ten pieces of nigiri, most using seafood from Toyosu Fish Market in Tokyo, are presented by skilled sushi chef David Tsan (Morimoto Asia, Kabooki Sushi). A handroll and soup are included, all for just $65. Soupakase is currently offered Wednesday to Sunday starting at 5 p.m. (reviewed Jan. 26) 11325 University Blvd., 407-440-4687, exploretock.com/soupa, $$$

LA ESKINNA

Some of the best Mexican street fare in the city is being served out of this food truck parked in an industrial dirt lot. Park, scan the menu, place your order with the carhop and the food will be brought out to you. The pastor, barbacoa, vegan chorizo and birria tacos are all winners. Closed Saturday. (reviewed Jan. 19) 1826 Saturn Blvd., Lot 4A, 407-5759156, facebook.com/la.eskinna, $ n