San Antonio Current — February 10, 2021

FEB. 10 - FEB. 23, 2021

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contact for any custom design: tresleches18@gmail.com earring in photo: Tribal ($7) | Photo by: BXJstills

www.tres-leches.com sacurrent.com | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | CURRENT

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in this issue Issue 21-03 /// February 10 – February 23, 2021

San Antonio Current Publisher: Michael Wagner Editor-in-Chief: Sanford Nowlin

Editorial

Digital Content Editor: Kelly Merka Nelson Contributing Arts Editor: Bryan Rindfuss Food and Nightlife Writer: Nina Rangel Contributors: Ron Bechtol, Chris Conde, Daniel Conrad, Jade Esteban Estrada, Dan R. Goddard, Lance Higdon, Steven G. Kellman, Hannah Lorence, Kiko Martinez, M. Solis, Gary Sweeney, Lea Thompson, Abe Asher Editorial Interns: Emily DiTomasso, Brianna Espinoza, Katie Hennessey, Cristela Jones, Jay Moreno, Dana Nichols, Emily Schmalstieg, Jada Teague

Advertising

Advertising Director: Michael Wagner

Marketing and Events

Marketing and Events Director: Cassandra Yardeni Events Manager: Chelsea Bourque Sales & Event Coordinator: Sky Hawkes Marketing Interns: Julia Bentley

Creative Services

Graphic Designer: Samantha Serna Production Interns: Pedro Macias, Michelle Moreno

Circulation

Circulation Manager: Justin Giles

Euclid Media Group

Chief Executive Officer: Andrew Zelman Chief Operating Officers: Chris Keating, Michael Wagner VP of Digital Services: Stacy Volhein Digital Operations Coordinator: Jaime Monzon Senior Marketing and Events Director: Cassandra Yardeni www.euclidmediagroup.com

Courtesy / Ja’el Sundown for Symbio-Hush

18 Feature Clean Cut

National Advertising: Voice Media Group (888) 278-9866, vmgadvertising.com

Since the pandemic, more consumers are demanding — and buying — high quality, locally raised meat

07 News

The Opener News in Brief

Missed Shot

Black and Latino San Antonians still lag white residents in getting vaccinated against COVID-19

New Leverage

Newly certified petition changes the dynamic of contract talks with San Antonio’s police union

13 Calendar Calendar Picks

14 Arts

Animal Farm

Texas artists and modern masters share the walls in fauna-filled exhibition ‘El Rancho McNay’

San Antonio Current 915 Dallas San Antonio, Texas 78215 sacurrent.com

17 Screens

Editorial: (210) 227-0044 / Fax - (210) 227-7755 Display Advertising: (210) 227-0044 Fax: (210) 227-7733 Classified: (210) 227-CLAS / Fax - (210) 227-7733

Old dog, new tricks

San Antonio actor Jesse Borrego talks about how the pandemic is changing Hollywood

The San Antonio Current is published by Euclid Media Group Verified Audit Member San Antonio Distribution – The Current is available free of charge, limited to one copy per reader.

18 Food

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21 Music

Copyright: The entire contents of the San Antonio Current are copyright 2019 by Euclid Media Group LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher is prohibited. Publisher does not assume any liability for unsolicited manuscripts, materials, or other content. Any submission must include a stamped, self-addressed envelope. All editorial, advertising, and business correspondence should be mailed to the address listed above.

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Musical Meditation

A devastating injury sent San Antonio musician John Coker down a genre-defying path to his new album STOIC

San Antonio experimental metal band Grasshopper Lies Heavy drops new ambient release

Consumer interest in locally sourced meat increased during the pandemic. Cover design: Samantha Serna.

M

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

H

Polly Lou Livingston, the San Antonio native who achieved fame for voicing the character Tree Trunks on Adventure Time, died at her home in January. She was 81. Livingston was born in Victoria and became a fixture across the state for her outsize personality, colorful dress and contributions to the arts community.

H

Some Texans struggling to keep up with rent during the COVID-19 pandemic will soon be in line for relief. The state is set to roll out a new $1.3 billion rental assistance program, which will be available to households making no more than 80% of their area median household income. The program will help with up to 15 months of rent.

H

Texas is losing another iconic eating establishment. After struggling through the first months of the COVID-19 pandemic, Luby’s, founded in San Antonio in 1947, announced last fall that it would liquidate assets to pay off its debt.

Now, the Houston Chronicle is reporting that the company plans to close all its locations, including nine in San Antonio, by the end of August.

State Rep. Richard Raymond, D-Laredo, introduced a bill in the Texas House that would strike down the state’s ban on the sale of distilled spirits on Sundays — a law that costs the state an estimated $7.8 million to $15.6 million in annual tax revenue. Raymond’s bill would also extend liquor store hours. If it passes, it will take effect September 1. — Abe Asher

news

That Rocks/That Sucks

Courtesy / Brisoe Cain

To many who follow Texas politics, State Rep. Briscoe Cain, R-Deer Park, is a fucking joke: a lawmaker better known for stirring the pot on Twitter than engaging in serious deliberation.

For example, he once made a veiled threat to train his AR-15 on Beto O’Rourke after the Democratic presidential candidate called for a ban on military-style weapons.

Based on his rancorous record, Texas Monthly

named Cain one of the state’s worst legislators in 2017. But his dubious achievements aren’t all in the rearview mirror. Far from it. Late last year, the attorney volunteered with former President Donald Trump’s legal team as it worked to reverse the 2020 election.

Which makes it both puzzling and disturbing that Texas House Speaker Dade Phelan, a fellow Republican, last week named Cain as chair of the House Elections Committee. As its name suggests, that panel ponders changes to voting law — something Cain doesn’t appear to hold in high regard given his effort to throw out the legitimate results of November’s presidential contest.

Hard to figure out who the bigger assclown is here: Cain for helping Trump with his seditious plan or Phelan for putting the conservative bomb-thrower in charge of anything having to do with elections. Why don’t we just call it a tie?

— Sanford Nowlin

In big news for supporters of police accountability, San Antonio’s city clerk validated a petition to let voters decide whether to repeal the chapter of the Texas Government Code that allows the city’s police union to engage in collective bargaining for a contract. Stripping the union of that power would likely give the chief of police greater power to discipline bad police officers. Voters will decide the fate of collective bargaining on the May ballot.

One of San Antonio’s richest men is headed for divorce in what is shaping up to be an acrimonious case. Rackspace Technology Inc. founder and downtown developer Graham Weston and his wife Elizabeth Weston are splitting after 26 years. Elizabeth Weston is accusing her husband of sexually assaulting her and carrying on affairs. Graham Weston maintains his wife secretly recorded him and hired a private investigator to spy on him. — Abe Asher

ASSCLOWN ALERT

State Rep. Briscoe Cain and House Speaker Dade Phelan Assclown alert is a column of opinion, analysis and snark.

YOU SAID IT!

“Marjorie Taylor Greene is hardly the only member of Congress to hold some out-there beliefs. Ted Cruz believes that beard is working for him.”

— Daily Show host Trevor Noah

Embattled U.S. Sen. Ted Cruz has another problem on his hands: a federal watchdog investigation of his effort to alter a pandemic loan program that sent millions of dollars to several of his major political donors. Brian D. Miller, special inspector general for pandemic recovery, is asking for all communications from Cruz’s office on the matter.

Facebook / Julián Castro

Find more news coverage every day at sacurrent.com

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Missed Shot

Black and Latino San Antonians still lag white residents in getting vaccinated against COVID-19

BY SANFORD NOWLIN

I

n San Antonio and across the country, COVID-19 has taken its heaviest toll on communities of color.

But state data suggests that, nine weeks into the vaccine rollout, white people in Bexar County are receiving shots at a higher rate than any other ethnic group — even though they represent just over a quarter of the population.

Further complicating matters, the Texas Department of State Health Services (DSHS) only last week began requiring every vaccination site to collect race and ethnicity data. That means there’s no such information for more than 45% of the people who received vaccinations in Bexar county.

As of Monday, February 8, just under 19% of the people who have received at least one vaccine dose in Bexar County were Latino and 2% were Black, according to state numbers available on Monday, February 8. Whites, on the other hand, accounted for more than 24% of vaccinations.

Even though the data are incomplete, they point to stark racial disparities in vaccine access, said Rogelio Sáenz, a University of Texas at San Antonio demography professor. He also warned that the true numbers could paint an even grimmer picture.

“There needs to be a greater effort to go out to the people who are most affected,” said Sáenz, who’s been tracking local and state vaccination rates. “We really need to pick this up more.”

Further shoring up the state data, local health officials presented data at Thursday’s city council meeting showing that more residents of San Antonio’s affluent North Side had received vaccine doses than those of any other part of the city. Roughly half of the

city’s COVID-19 fatalities have been among residents of the predominantly Latino South and West sides.

Blacks and Latinos are more likely to be employed in front-line jobs such as retail and restaurants and they’re also more likely to live in large households, both of which increase potential exposure to COVID-19, health experts say.

Further, those groups face higher rates of preexisting conditions that raise the risk they face if infected with COVID-19. Plus, they’re less likely than whites to have health insurance.

The big picture The local disparities appear to mirror state and national trends.

Across Texas, Latinos account for slightly less than 11% of those receiving at least one vaccine shot, while Blacks account for around 4%. Whites represent nearly 30% of Texas’ total, and there’s no race or ethnicity data for another 41%.

Numbers from other states suggest that people of color are being vaccinated nationwide at rates that don’t reflect the elevated danger they face from the virus. But, again, a lack of data collection doesn’t provide a complete picture, experts caution.

A late-January analysis by healthcare policy nonprofit KFF found that the share of vaccinations among Black people is smaller than their share of cases in 16 of the 17 states that report race data on those who receive vaccinations. Black residents’ share of vaccinations is also smaller than their share of deaths in all but two of those states.

Health experts have repeatedly raised concerns

about the lack of data, especially in light of high rates of vaccine hesitancy among Black Americans. As early as last April, the American Medical Association began calling on federal and state agencies to collect and share all race and ethnicity data related to the pandemic.

Local outreach San Antonio Metro Health officials say increasing inoculations among Black and Latino residents is a priority.

Metro Health is using robocalls and postcards to raise awareness of the vaccination process, and 15 workers now conduct door-to-door sign-up efforts in underserved communities, according to Dr. Anita Kurian, assistant director of San Antonio Metro Health.

More programs, potentially including online town halls, are in the works.

“That outreach is going to go on year-round,” Kurian said.

What’s more, the city last week kicked off an effort to administer thousands of vaccinations to homebound seniors through a partnership with Meals on Wheels and the San Antonio Housing Authority.

State roadblock Still, observers caution that San Antonio and other cities are hindered by Texas’ ability to control access to further vaccine doses.

Last month, the state threatened to halt Dallas’ vaccine access after officials there rolled out a plan to prioritize getting shots to people in its most vulnerable neighborhoods. Ultimately, the city scrapped the effort.

UTSA’s Sáenz said San Antonio’s long history of generational poverty will require it to innovate.

If local leaders want to make progress against the pandemic, they should focus on making sure vaccinations are available to areas that are hardest hit.

“The pandemic has made it clear we’re all interconnected,” he said. sacurrent.com | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | CURRENT

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

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Garnish with a lime slice.

news

New Leverage

Newly certified petition changes the dynamic of contract talks with San Antonio’s police union

BY ABRAHAM ASHER

P

olice accountability activists landed a big win last week when the city confirmed that they’d secured enough signatures to let San Antonio voters decide in May whether to repeal the police union’s collective bargaining power.

In the nearer term, that victory could also reshape the upcoming negotiations on a new contract between the San Antonio Police Officers Association (SAPOA) and the city of San Antonio.

“This is probably the worst possible time for [SAPOA] to get real aggressive with the city,” said Gerald Reamey, a St. Mary’s University law professor who studies police issues.

“If people who watch this process see the police union acting in ways that make them think that [SAPOA] are not willing to negotiate in good faith … then [the union] run the real risk that they’re no longer going to have the power to negotiate,” he added.

The city and SAPOA will open negotiations on a new collective bargaining agreement at the Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center on February 12, starting a 60-day clock for the sides to approve a new contract.

San Antonio residents will then vote in May whether San Antonio police officers should retain the right they currently have to collectively bargain.

Reading the record Reamey, who has advised police departments, said SAPOA leadership likely sees the loss of collective bargaining power as an “existential threat.” That should push the union to find middle ground with the city.

But, given SAPOA’s track record, activists aren’t so sure that it will.

Some police accountability advocates had hoped a change in SAPOA’s leadership might bring the two sides closer together. However, they say new union president Juan “Danny” Diaz has so far shown little willingness to compromise on issues of officer discipline and accountability.

In a statement released after verification of the petition, Diaz criticized an alleged “lack of transparency” on the part of Fix SAPD, the group that spearheaded the petition effort, and promised to fight for the union’s collective bargaining rights.

“SAPOA plans on working hard between now and election day to inform voters about how important collective bargaining (Chapter 174) is to recruiting top-notch police officers who will keep our neighborhoods safe, and to ensuring the police chief and the city continue to have flexibility in hiring, promotions, discipline, and boosting diversity within the depart-

James Dobbins

ment,” he said.

Josey Garcia, a founding member and leader of the community group Reliable Revolutionaries, said Diaz and SAPOA appear to be taking an adversarial approach to both the collective bargaining and the upcoming election campaign.

“I want to be optimistic and say that I hope that they will come to the table and come to a middle ground so that we can make it work for everybody, but what I will think will happen, based on what we’ve been seeing so far, I believe they’re intending to fight this all the way through,” she said.

Ananda Tomas, deputy director of Fix SAPD, agreed.

“I think that if [SAPOA] really wants to say that they are accountable to the public and back up their words with their action, then absolutely, they should [compromise with the city],” she said. “But I can’t hope for it based on the history of their behavior.”

‘Stories of retribution’ Reform advocates are gearing up for the coming campaign — distancing themselves from calls to defund the police and arguing that progress on discipline issues will benefit both good officers and the city’s relationship with its police force.

Some two-thirds of SAPD officers fired over the past 10 years have ended up back on the force due to an arbitration process guaranteed under the union’s current contract.

Garcia, who served in the Air Force, said some police officers and their families actually signed the petition to repeal SAPOA’s collective bargaining rights.

“We’ve had testimonies from several police officers and families of police officers that have shared stories of retribution against them when they were accused of going against the thin blue line when it comes to reporting their fellow officers for abuses,” she said.

Indeed, at the height of nationwide police accountability protests last summer, SAPD Chief William McManus said collective bargaining plays a role in “protecting bad officers.” However, he’s since backtracked and said he’s not completely opposed to the process.

Garcia said that if SAPOA takes a hardline stance on discipline issues during contract negotiations, that will be an indictment of the union’s power.

“What is concerning to us as advocates for accountability is how hard they’re fighting to not be held accountable,” she said. “Because in any other job, when a boss fires an individual for wrongdoing, that individual generally stays fired.”

Whether SAPOA gives any ground on discipline issues in collective bargaining, the looming referendum on the police union’s collective bargaining power will give voters a direct say on how they want their police department run. “[SAPOA] are not concerned about justice,” said longtime civil rights leader and former city council member Mario Salas. “They want to continue things the way that they’re going. And if that’s what they want to do, then we’ll see them at the ballot box.” sacurrent.com | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | CURRENT

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Get a free mini bouquet and digital photo with your same-day purchases totaling $75 or more from at least two Alamo Quarry Market stores or restaurants. To collect your fresh Valentine flowers, bring current day’s receipts to the pop-up truck parked at these locations. Plus, enter for a chance to win $100 in prizes.

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12

CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

SUN | 02.14 BURLESQUE

VA-VA-VALENTINE

calendar

WED | 02.10 SUN | 02.21

On Valentine’s, let the Pastie Pops knock your socks off with a virtual version of their annual Va-Va-Valentine burlesque and variety show. Hosted by Camille Toe and Topsy Curvy, the sexy show features risqué performances by Jessabelle

Thunder, Tito Bonito, Ruby Champagne, Chola Magnolia,

Louisianna Purchase, Ginger Snaps, Natasha B. Capri, Jasper St. James, Vixy Van Hellen and Mary Annette. A mere $15 to watch, those looking to make their Valentine’s Day extra

sexy can spend $50 on a VIP package that includes a limited edition “V-Day At Home” kit sponsored by the Sexology

Institute. $15-$50, 7 p.m., eventbrite.com/e/pastie-pops-va-vavalentine-tickets-136908333511. — KMN

SUN | 02.14 FILM

Courtesy of San Antonio Zoo

insect to one of its animals as an enrichment treat. If that’s not petty enough, you can claim naming rights to a rat for $25. For 2021, the zoo also added a herbivore option. Those just not that mad at their ex — or who merely need to vent some frustration with lockdown roommates — can pitch in $5 to name veggies after them. Staff, of course, will feed the Courtesy of Dinosaur Drive-Thru SPECIAL EVENT

DINOSAUR DRIVE-THRU

green vittles to one of the zoo’s herbivorous residents. On Valentine’s Day, the zoo will broadcast the feeding frenzy on social media throughout the day so viewers can watch with glee as birds, mammals and reptiles chow down on dishes

A new COVID-safe family experience has come roaring into

best served cold. Last year’s fundraiser netted $45,000 for

the Six Flags Fiesta Texas parking lot. Dinosaur Drive-Thru,

the zoo on San Antonio’s pettiness. After all the tension that

which opened last weekend, showcases 60 life-sized anima-

built up in 2020, it may be able to rack up an even prettier

tronic dinosaurs in a 45-minute audio tour that includes a

penny this go-round. $5-$25, Facebook, sazoo.org/valentine.

trivia game. From the safety of their vehicles, visitors can feel

— Kelly Merka Nelson

the vibrations from the roar of a 40-foot-long T-Rex. “During most of the pandemic, there’s not much for families to do.

We really wanted our visitors to safely experience the excitement of what it would be like to go on a prehistoric safari,” Dinosaur Drive-Thru owner Troy Diskin said in a release.

“Instead of lions and tigers, we’re featuring T-Rexes and raptors.” Winners of the trivia game will receive a free certificate. Visitors can also purchase souvenir bags and custom framed professional photos for keepsakes. $49 per vehicle, 2-8 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays, 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Sundays through February

Facebook / Presa House Gallery

21, Six Flags Fiesta Texas, 17000 W. IH-10, dinosaurdrivethru.

MR. SOUL!

com. — Jay Moreno

Celebrate Black history month by remembering one of the

SUN | 02.14

first television shows to showcase Black art and culture across the nation, SOUL! The 2021 documentary Mr. SOUL! captures the vibrancy and importance of the variety show,

SPECIAL EVENT

which for five years highlighted the Black Arts Movement

CRY ME A COCKROACH!

when other media focused instead on inner-city poverty and

Plenty of us feel bitter about our exes, but how many of us

violence. The free virtual screening comes the week before

feel bitter enough to name a cockroach after them? Instead

the documentary’s official broadcast premiere and is a part

of moping around this Valentine’s Day, folks can get their

of the Indie Lens Pop-Up series, presented by KLRN and Pre-

just desserts — and so can some hungry animals — as the San

sa House Gallery. Mr. SOUL! will be preceded by a screening

Antonio Zoo brings back its Cry Me A Cockroach! fundraiser

of the short film “Birth of the Afro Beat,” and followed by a performance of San Antonio neo-soul band The Foreign

for a second year. As with last year, participants can drop $5 to name a cockroach after their ex, and the zoo will feed the

Courtesy of The Pastie Pops

Arm. Free, 6 p.m., ovee.itvs.org/screenings/qfoth. — Dana Nichols

Reminder:

Although live events have returned, the COVID-19 pandemic is still with us. Check with venues to make sure scheduled events are still happening, and please follow all health and safety guidelines.

Animal Farm

Texas artists and modern masters share the walls in fauna-filled exhibition ‘El Rancho McNay’

BY BRYAN RINDFUSS

E

videnced by the curly tailed babirusa (or “pig deer”) scrawled on the wall of a cave in Indonesia, animals have been inspiring art for at least 45,500 years. As the oldest muse on record, critters unsurprisingly boast a fascinating art historical record that includes ancient Egyptian cat sarcophagi; a foreboding dog mosaic in the lost city of Pompei; a veritable menagerie created by German Renaissance kingpin Albrecht Dürer; post-impressionist wildlife paintings by Henri Rousseau; watercolors of every imaginable bird by 19th-century naturalist John James Audubon; anthropomorphic self-portraits by Mexican icon Frida Kahlo; and contemporary interpretations that run the gamut from poppy and playful (Jeff Koons) to controversial and macabre (Damien Hirst).

With obvious exceptions, animal-themed artwork has a knack for lifting our spirits — no small feat in during the pandemic — which is one of the driving forces behind the recently opened exhibition “El Rancho McNay: Animals in the Collection.”

“I wanted to put together an exhibition that was accessible and sort of fun and lighthearted during these difficult times,” McNay Curator of Collections Lyle W. Williams explained. “And the theme of animals immediately popped to mind. Because probably a lot of people don’t know [the McNay] was a working farm back in the 19th century. Animals have always roamed the property. When Mrs. McNay built her house, there were peacocks and dogs on the patio. …

And our founding director John Leeper had a string of pampered cats that lived with him on the property.”

“El Rancho McNay” also functions as something of a welcome party for two recent gifts from avid collectors Harriett and Ricardo Romo: Luis Jiménez’s 1993 lithograph Alligator and Richard Armendariz’s 2016 woodcut Red Saturn and His Children.

Epic Proportions Late El Paso native Luis Jiménez grew up working in his father’s neon sign shop and eventually made a big name for himself with large-scale polychromed fiberglass sculptures that nod to his Mexican heritage as well as low-rider culture, Southwestern iconography and socio-political satire.

A humorous homage to the alligator-filled pond that drew tourists to El Paso’s San Jacinto Plaza from the 1880s to the 1960s, Jiménez’s sculpture Los Lagartos is a beloved landmark that’s featured on Roadside America’s

guide to offbeat attractions. Created in tandem with that public art project, his Texas-size print Alligator is puzzled-together at the center.

“You can see it’s printed from two separate stones,” Williams said. “The alligator was so big it wouldn’t fit on one.”

Tragically, Jiménez died in 2006 after a piece of his 32-foot-tall sculpture Blue Mustang, a commission for the Denver International Airport, fell and severed an artery in his leg.

Mythic Adaptation Also hailing from El Paso, San Antonio-based artist and educator Richard Armendariz celebrates hallmarks of the borderlands from his own distinct perspective. Easily recognizable, his work involves using a customized router to carve patterns and imagery into moody landscape paintings.

Remixing concepts borrowed from Fransisco Goya’s horrific painting Saturn Devouring His Son, Armendariz’s Red Saturn and His McNay Art Museum Children reimagines the cannibalistic titan as a buffalo that’s unperturbed by pesky “children” bent on usurping his mighty powers.

“When I started traveling more, I realized that the cultural protagonists found in myths and legends

McNay Art Museum

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

arts

2010 linocut Chu Cho Revolucionario.

Born and raised in Mexico and based in San Antonio since 2007, Mora is an accomplished artist and educator known for intricate black-and-white prints inspired by surrealism, science fiction and social satire. Packing in references Family Affair to stray dogs, classism, the Golden Age of Mexican Cinema and even During a masked and socially distanced walkthrough of “El Rancho McNay,” Williams the charro suit his grandfather wore on Sundays, his Chu Cho Revshared a bit of trivia that viewers might not olucionario depicts a well-dressed pick up on. canine holding a less-fortunate “Frank Romero was one of the pioneers of dog on a leash. the Chicano art movement in Southern Cal“In Mexico sometimes we call the ifornia. His daughter has a work in the show stray dogs chuchos. Like, ‘Chucho, too. It’s nice to have that continuity,” he said. get out of here! You’re not wantInterestingly, Frank Romero’s White Horse ed,’” Mora explained via Zoom. conjures playful energy with expressive ges“[This] dog has another dog on tures and a childlike sense of color, while his a leash. … I’m daughter Sonia Romero’s playing with dogs in a way Bee Ball feels pensive and ‘El Rancho McNay: that represents machispointed by comparison. mo.”

Animals in the Collection’ “She’s interested in the decimation of the bee population,” Williams The Old Guard said. “She likes to bring 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesday-Friday, her Chicana heritage Smartly, Williams 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday, and use printmaking as used the exhibition as an noon-5 p.m. Sunday thru May 30 a socio-political tool to opportunity to showcase McNay Art Museum [explore] different issues, the historical breadth of 6000 N. New Braunfels Ave., especially the environthe McNay’s permanent (210) 824-5368, mcnayart.org. ment.” collection while placing contemporary art in the same context with works Revolutionary Pooch by modern master Pablo Picasso, French fauvist Raoul Dufy and early Texas printmaker “El Rancho McNay” is filled with gems Mary Bonner. that span styles and decades — with animals While it’s always a thrill to inspect a Picasbeing the chief common denominator. That so up close, his four etchings in the show — a said, the compact show’s undeniable undercat, a butterfly, a frog and a spider — speak dog is Juan de Dios Mora’s brilliantly colored

are interchangeable,” Armendariz told us. “I enjoy the idea of Saturn [as an] aging buffalo, no longer powerful. [He] ignores the prediction of his dethroning and allows his children to unseat him. The moths, cicadas and grackles pester Saturn, who is unable to fend them off, resigned to his fate.”

$10-$20

McNay Art Museum

McNay Art Museum

Photos (clockwise from upper left): 1. Richard Armendariz, Red Saturn and His Children; 2. Luis A. Jiménez Jr., Alligator; 3. Juan de Dios Mora, Chu Cho Revolucionario; 4. Frank Romero, White Horse; 5. Mary Bonner, Mrs. McNay’s Dog and Pup.

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more quietly than Dufy’s eight woodcuts, all gorgeously graphic illustrations taken from Guillaume Apollinaire’s 1911 poetry collection Le Bestiaire ou Cortège d’Orphée. Hailed as “San Antonio’s first fine art printmaker,” Bonner (1887-1935) is perhaps the show’s biggest shoo-in, since her etchings capture Marion Koogler McNay’s beloved dogs, including a playful standoff in the museum’s picturesque courtyard.

McNay Art Museum

Find more arts coverage every day at sacurrent.com

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

San Antonio actor Jesse Borrego talks about how the pandemic is changing Hollywood

BY KIKO MARTINEZ

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ctor and San Antonio native Jesse Borrego (Blood In, Blood Out) considers himself an “old dog” in the movie industry. But that doesn’t mean he’s unaware of the changes happening in Hollywood, even before the pandemic upended everything almost a year ago. “[The pandemic] changed society and the way we live our lives and our careers,” Borrego told the Current during an interview last week. “As actors, some people are stuck in the old model and going to auditions, while these little kids and gamers are becoming YouTube stars. You can’t old-dog it anymore.”

Borrego says he’s keeping a positive outlook as more movies and TV shows get back into production under strict COVID-19 restrictions and studios continue to tinker with release schedules. Whatever happens in 2021, Borrego believes Hollywood is never going to function the same way again — and that’s OK with him.

Has anything positive happened in the industry since the pandemic began?

It’s been a double-edged sword. Like many other industries, everything got shut down.

We did see the ability for independent projects to come out into the world and compete with the big film narratives. It proved that there is still a glimmer of hope for independent films and that they could compete with the big boys in this new technological landscape.

As an actor, are you ready for things to get back to normal?

Not really, because my personal career has been about being an outsider anyway. When I moved to San Antonio in 2012, I was already auditioning through the internet. It was something I was already doing and enjoying. The stress of going to an audition was relieved. I like it a lot better because I have more control. Instead of me walking into a room and turning it on for them, now I feel like I can show them what I need to. That freed me up to do a lot of good stuff.

What do you think about a major studio like Warner Bros. deciding to release their movies this year at theaters and on HBO

screens

Old dog, new tricks

Fear the Walking Dead / AMC

Max simultaneously?

The cat is out of the bag. First, they went from a three-month window to a three-week window, which was already killing the theaters.

It’s going to be really interesting to see how the old model tries to survive, but you can’t stop the fact that it’s all in the digital world now. It’s all a la carte.

Will the way we watch movies fundamentally change after this?

Oh, yeah. This is the new disruption of society by technology, and we’re utilizing it. Now, we need to find out how to tell these narratives in new ways.

blown up to a big screen anytime you want.

These home theaters are so immersive, you feel like you’re at a movie theater. Now, what about the social construct of getting together and sharing movies? I don’t see how that could disappear because it’s such a fun thing.

But we’re not gonna see those big multiplexes anymore. I don’t see anybody investing money in that.

Anytime during the pandemic, have you thought, “Uh oh. Fear the Walking Dead”?

Some people would argue that the old way is fine, and that King Kong vs. Godzilla should be seen on the big screen, not a cell phone.

(Laughs.) Man, I saw it all. I said, “Be the water bearer, man.” Ruben Blades told me that he had never seen a character like mine [in Fear the Walking Dead] before. He was like, “You’re the kindest, gentlest character in this world.”

I was like, “Man, I did it again! I was in this violent, horror genre TV series, but I was the kindest, gentlest guy!”

How are you supposed to watch Con Air on your smartphone, right?

What’s your take on the Screen Actors Guild thinking about kicking Donald Trump out of the union? (Note: This interview was conducted before Trump ultimately resigned from the organization on February 3).

The reality is that people are already doing it. You see these kids watching stuff on their smartphones. I try to do that and I’m like, “Man, that’s too small for me!”

Exactly! But they love it. I think the new generation is going to buy into the miniaturization of everything. The technology is gonna be such that small information can be

It’s good to see that the union is standing up for something. But why did they wait so long? Dude, I would’ve thrown him out four years ago!

Find more film stories at sacurrent.com

Courtesy / Ja’el Sundown for Symbio-Hush

Clean Cut

Since the pandemic, more consumers are demanding — and buying — high quality, locally raised meat

BY NINA RANGEL

O

n a cold December afternoon in 2013, among food writers, farmers and noted Texas chefs, I learned what it means to be happier than a pig in shit.

I’d heard the phrase before, but on the sprawling grounds of South Texas Heritage Pork, an artisan hog farm nestled just 50 minutes southeast of downtown San Antonio, I saw firsthand exactly how happy the critters could be.

That afternoon, our motley crew of local food pros — some boasting deep Louisiana roots — banded together to hold a traditional boucherie. The rural southern Louisiana tradition centers around the slaughter, butchering and cooking of an entire animal, the meat of which is divvied up between participating families to serve in a shared, potluck-style feast.

The pork was incredible, the camaraderie unmatched and the ingenuity of the chefs played a big part.

What I remember most clearly, however, is those pleased pigs.

When Heritage Pork owners Mark and Kelley Escobedo welcomed our band of culinary misfits into their humble home, it was clear they’d spared hardly any expense on their animals’ living conditions. The wellfed, nocturnal beasts were free to roam the grounds, foraging for native vittles. A pack of trained guard dogs kept them safe from nighttime predators.

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

I know I mentioned porcine poo earlier, but these swine had room to roam and a meticulously maintained environment. They had it made.

Over the past few decades, a growing number of independent meat, poultry and dairy farmers have seized on this quality of care, but it’s not always been embraced by consumers. The resulting meat — nutritional, sustainable and oh-so-tasty — has a tendency to be more expensive than what’s available from big box grocers. As a result, consumers generally know less about independently owned options available in their communities.

The COVID-19 meat shortage started to change that.

Due to labor shortages brought on by the pandemic, meat became harder to get nationwide last spring.

When mega-brands such as Tyson and Smithfield Foods temporarily closed plants as staff tested positive for the coronavirus, smaller farms saw a significant upswing in new, local customers.

“Let’s face it, people had more time at home … and they were doing more ordering through online mechanisms, even if it was a click-and-collect model at their local grocery store,” said Chris Oliviero, general manager of Niman Ranch, a network of 750 small, independent family farmers and ranchers. “If you think about it, how much time do you spend looking at a package of meat in a store? Not a whole lot. But when you’re shopping from

Butcher Series’ online shop offers exclusive a la carte cuts of locally sourced meat.

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home, you have the ability to click on an item, and it pulls up more information about who that supplier is.”

Westminster, Colorado-based Niman Ranch works with farms that raise cattle, pigs and lamb humanely and sustainably — with no antibiotics or hormones. The business also pays the ranchers a premium for their livestock, recognizing the work that goes into raising their animals to strict protocols. In turn, it sells the meat to restaurants, distributors, butchers and specialty grocers.

Niman’s San Antonio purchasers include restaurants Down on Grayson, 18 Oaks at the JW Marriott Hill Country Resort and Camp Outpost in Southtown.

Pre-COVID, about 43% of Niman’s business was foodservice. That bottomed out in April of last year at 13%, but has bumped back up to 25-30%, according to Oliviero.

“Consumers, when they were quarantined and fearful of dining out, started trying services like meal kit companies, or companies like Butcher Box,” he said. “[Sales through] that channel have increased 40% over the course of the year.”

Sales momentum SA-born chef and butcher Joe Saenz took advantage of that trend and in August launched Swine House Butcher Series, an online butcher shop that allows customers to purchase locally raised specialty meats. The shop — a collaboration with popular food truck and catering outfit Box Street Social — works with regional pork, lamb and grass-fed beef providers to purchase and butcher

food Jaime Monzon

whole animals. It stocks an online shop with exclusive a la carte cuts.

“It just seems like there’s even less resistance from consumers now,” Saenz said. “The momentum we saw back in August has intensified, and we’ve definitely seen enough to be encouraged.”

Citing steadily growing consumer interest in the Butcher Series, Saenz said he’s looking into refrigerated vehicles so his crew can expand into delivery.

“People are now expecting pick-up and delivery systems,” he said. “Companies are getting rid of their dining rooms completely and using those spaces as landing areas for newly developed to-go systems. I’m excited to be able to move toward helping consumers see what they’ve been missing out on for the sake of convenience.”

$500 designed to help farmers address pandemic-related challenges.

In a December survey of those emergency mini-grant recipients, 62% reported that their farm business is better off now than it was before the pandemic. Many of those independent farmers were able to beef up — pun intended — their marketing, cold storage, shipping and technical capabilities via the grants.

“When restaurants were first shut down, farmers had all of this meat, and then suddenly didn’t have a market for it,” FACT Executive Director Harry Rhodes said. “Our mini-grants were so helpful to these independent farmers because they were able to funnel that money away from marketing as a wholesale operation, and instead market directly to consumers.”

Rhodes credits the relative success of small, independent farmers during the pandemic to more consumer awareness. Focused social media, marketing and advertising campaigns — avenues to which many independent farmers hadn’t previously dedicated time and money — played a role in building that interest.

Direct to consumers

‘Liberate ourselves’

As it turns out, Alamo City residents aren’t alone in turning to smaller, independent farms as they look for better sources of meat.

In April and May of last year, more than 200 livestock and poultry farmers across 40 states were awarded emergency mini-grants from Chicago-based nonprofit Food Animal Concerns Trust. Over those two months, FACT— which focuses on advancing food safety and animal welfare policies — doled out grants of up to

Until recently, the Escobedos of Heritage Pork were just such business owners.

The couple have operated their farm for more than a decade, posting up at weekend farmers markets and selling directly to area eateries. Pasture-raising English Large Black and Tamworth hogs meant seven-day workweeks for the couple, so social media and other marketing efforts weren’t exactly a priority.

When the opportunity to open a brick-and-

Heritage hog farmer Mark Escobedo shows off locally sourced beef cuts.

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Courtesy / Niman Ranch

Pasture-raised pigs with access to sunlight and native food produce tastier meat, experts say.

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mortar butcher shop — a career-long dream — presented itself during the pandemic, the Escobedos jumped at the chance. Social media is now a pivotal, daily aspect of their consumer relations.

“It’s been nerve wracking, for sure,” Kelley Escobedo told me when I stopped by their shop, The Farmer’s Butcher, to reintroduce myself after nearly ten years. “But things have evened out. We’re tired, but right now, our prices aren’t that much more expensive than what you’ll find at H-E-B. And it’s good stuff.”

Indeed, the glass cases of the East Side shop are brimming with the Escobedos’ flavorful, sustainable, healthy and environmentally responsible signature pork, along with cuts of beef and poultry from like-minded farmers.

For folks who might have always thought proteins from local, independent farmers were too expensive to fit into a weekly budget, local farmers and food professionals say now’s the time for a rethink.

“Literal cookie-cutter packages of meat are built for speed, scaling and industrialized food systems,” Swine House chef and butcher Saenz said.

“Maybe it’s just time to liberate ourselves from expecting what we’ve come to know as the ‘ideal’ form of any one product and embrace the journey of going from raw to cooked with righteously raised meats.”

Find more food & drink news at sacurrent.com

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

A devastating injury sent San Antonio musician John Coker down a genre-defying path to his new album STOIC

BY SANFORD NOWLIN

A

Courtesy / John Coker

freak injury while performing onstage forced classical musician John Coker to reevaluate his life.

During a performance rehearsal at Baltimore’s Peabody Institute, he was exposed to a blindingly bright lighting rig that he says triggered a permanent hyperactive state in his visual cortex. He was temporarily blinded and later diagnosed with PTSD from the incident.

It took years of meditation and therapy for Coker to recover from the PTSD, although he’s still forced to wear dark glasses so his vision can function something close to normal.

“The meditation helped me lose all this fear and this false self that I’d become,” said Coker, who now resides in San Antonio. “It represents being able to be multiple things instead of being stuck in this narrow pigeonhole.”

That eagerness to be multiple things permeates STOIC, the new album Coker recorded during quarantine in his apartment, performing all the instrumental and vocal tracks. The album, Coker’s second long-player as a solo artist, dropped last month on New York-based Bentley Records.

The nine-song release alternates track to track between proggy, improvisation-driven pieces reminiscent of vintage Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream and King Crimson and quiet, more conventionally structured songs that reflect Coker’s simultaneous interest in

acoustic singer-songwriters.

The end result is an inventive album unsaddled by genre limitations that manages to explore fresh sonic territory without wallowing in self-indulgence. While there’s plenty of experimentation going on, Coker’s musical chops and embrace of melody never get lost in a sonic mire.

The opening track, “Face the Night Feel Alright,” features electric bass as its most prominent feature — understandable since Coker’s classical training is on the double bass. Stuttering electronic percussion and overdriven guitars do a dance in the headphones before the track settles into a groove somewhere between Tones on Tail and dub reggae.

The 10-minute suite “Eine kleine Not Mozart” provides a showcase for Coker’s classical training, starting with a delicate composition that sounds like it’s being performed on a piano recorded from the other side of an apartment wall. A series of orchestral swells build the piece to a darker, heavier conclusion.

Given the density of Coker’s arrangements, it could be easy for the acoustic songs to feel like filler — something to skip over on the way to the next big payoff — but their immediacy and songcraft allow them to stand on their own.

“Possibly Forever,” which features acoustic guitar accompanied only by tambourine manages to sound like a forgotten songwrit-

San Antonio experimental metal band Grasshopper Lies Heavy drops new ambient release

first of which dropped for preorder last week.

The new release, available via Grasshopper’s Bandcamp site, features a pair of 20-plus-minute tracks that veer into Tangerine Dream soundscape territory, steering clear of the skull-crushing heroics of the band’s live shows. While the ride includes some heavier moments, it’s largely introspective, melancholy and in line with Grasshopper’s soundtrack work.

“Everything we see is an illusion,” Grasshopper writes on the page for its new release.

“We are made of sadness, like stardust but darker than black.”

Expect more output over the course of the year. Next up is likely to be a three-cassette box set of an ambient live set Woodard

I

f you’re excited that San Antonio’s the Grasshopper Lies Heavy just released new material, thank guitarist James Woodard’s recent computer crash.

Woodard managed to salvage recordings from the fried PC’s drives, but the incident scared him into releasing the rescued songs via a series of limited-edition cassettes, the

music

Musical Meditation

ing collaboration between the Beatles and the Moody Blues, only with an unexpectedly gothy edge thanks to Coker’s dramatic baritone vocals.

With its lilting folky melody and delicately fingerpicked bridge, “Rose of Another Name” evokes the ’70 British folk-rock scene that gave rise to Fairport Convention and Steeleye Span.

While all that genre jumping could make for an awkward three-bean salad of an album, STOIC hangs together as a cohesive work. Like Jeffrey Lebowski’s rug that pulls the whole room together, Coker’s interest in manipulating sound manages to unite the tracks.

Instruments leap from the mix like jump scares in a horror movie and musical passages pan from one speaker to another and back again, making for a headphone-friendly listening experience.

Those touches no doubt derive from Coker’s experience doing sound design with local stage productions.

“I’m just obsessed with sound,” he said.

“It goes back to that thing with John Cage: where’s the line between noise and music?”

While there’s no shortage of solo artists creating experimental releases in their bedrooms that walk a similar line, STOIC stands out from the herd thanks to Coker’s musicianship, ambition and novel approach to contrasting hot and cold, light and dark.

Reminder:

Courtesy / The Grasshopper Lies Heavy

performed at a Louisiana museum a couple of years ago.

“Dreading mixing that one,” he said.

— Sanford Nowlin

Although live events have returned, the COVID-19 pandemic is still with us. Check with venues to make sure scheduled events are still happening, and please follow all health and safety guidelines.

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CURRENT | February 10 – February 23, 2021 | sacurrent.com

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