Seasonal Treats in February

Bring some cheer to meal times in the depths of winter with these home-grown seasonal superstars…

Cauliflower

With a mild flavour when properly cooked – overboiling should be a criminal offencecauliflower can easily take on the taste of any ingredients it’s used with. There is, of course, the comforting classic of cauliflower cheese – steam cook then drain before generously covering in Cheddar cheese sauce and baking until the cheese is bubbling and turning golden. Its meaty texture also makes cauliflower a perfect replacement for vegetarian dishes – cut into 5cm-thick steaks, steam until just tender, then add to a hot frying pan and sear in butter before roasting for 10 minutes until caramelised.

Forced rhubarb

When there isn’t much fresh produce around, forced rhubarb brings a touch of brightness to winter menus. It is traditionally grown in almost complete darkness in heated sheds inside the fabled Yorkshire Rhubarb Triangle (nine square miles between Rothwell, Morley and Wakefield) and hand-picked between January and March by candlelight.

Forced rhubarb’s eccentric cultivation results in pretty pink stalks that need no peeling, as they are far more tender than the outdoor-grown version, and they keep their shape better when cooked, too – and without a hint of stringiness. To prep, simply trim and remove the toxic leaves before cooking or freezing.

Jerusalem artichoke

Jerusalem artichoke is a small, lumpy tuber that’s no relation to its rather more gorgeous globe namesake. But what it lacks in the looks department it more than makes up for in taste. With a nutty, earthy flavour, it can be used both raw and cooked, but you do need to cook or serve it fast once you’ve trimmed and sliced it, as otherwise it starts to oxidise and lose its depth of flavour. It goes well with earthy fish, or white meat like chicken or pork. Try it sliced and fried in butter, spiralised in a crunchy salad, or roasted.

Wild things: rabbit

At this time of year gamekeepers will keep local butchers busy with a steady stream of wild rabbits as they battle to keep them from munching through young crops. They are usually sold skinned and portioned, and their lean, gamey meat makes for a marvellous slow-cooked stew. Add carrots, smoked bacon, leek, mushrooms, beef or chicken stock and red wine for a tasty lapin au vin.

February Shopping List