13.10.17 MEN’S EDITION STARRING
The style staples no man should be without
James Franco
Porn, politics and trying to grow up
* yes, really
OFF THE RAILS
Virgil Abloh Blondey McCoy Loyle Carner Arnaud Valois and style icon* Jeremy Clarkson
CONTENTS 8 Roitfeld frights and Tom Hanks writes in CAPITAL GAINS 10 Laura Craik on why it’s nice to be nice in UPFRONT 13 Our MOST WANTED are Louis Vuitton’s neon knit kicks 14 Looking fly, it’s Stephen Fry in FLASHBULB 17 Suit up and Swatch out in TRENDWATCH
MEN’S STYLE is all about Berluti’s booties 25 Well hello, VIRGIL ABLOH 32 How to be a FATHER 35 JEREMY CLARKSON, global style icon 37 Strap on the new breed of TIMEKEEPERS 41 Ooh la la, it’s ARNAUD VALOIS 44 To be perfectly JAMES FRANCO 51 BOTOX and the City 53 GANT-ily clad 54 Who the hell is BLONDEY MCCOY? 63 The lovely Loyle Carner in BEAUTY 71 GRACE & FLAVOUR on James Cochran N1 73 The TART girls steak their claim 75 Inside Anthony Kendal’s pad in HOMEWORK 81 ESCAPE to Paris 82 Tommy Hilfiger’s MY LONDON 22
Getty. Cover: James Franco photographed by Victor Demarchelier. Styled by Jenny Kennedy. COACH coat, £2,050; jumper, £475 (uk.coach.com). Trousers James’s own
EDITOR Laura Weir
Here are the ES team’s top five male icons of the moment
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DICK WOLF ‘Dick Wolf, the prolific creator of Law & Order, which first aired in 1990. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen every episode across each franchise, and I’ve started on his latest spin-off, Law & Order True Crime: The Menendez Murders. Dun dun.’ Katrina Israel, fashion features director
MARILYN MANSON ‘Recent cheater of death and flicker of reporter’s testicles — what else do you need to know?’ Jenny Kennedy, fashion editor
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5
STORMZY ‘I’m going with Stormzy, not just because he’s had a No1 album, a Brit and a Mercury nom, but also because of his decision to open up about his depression on Channel 4 news — a brilliant way to dismantle the stigma of mental illness.’ Alice-Azania Jarvis, features director
4
GRAYSON PERRY ‘Astute cultural commentator, brilliant brain, gifted artist, challenger of convention; these are just a few of the reasons why Grayson is my pick.’ Laura Weir, editor
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TOM PETTY ‘I lost one of my all-time heroes last week: Tom Petty, an inspiration in music, style and, most of all, attitude. Two months ago I saw him play in Hyde Park and he looked in great shape. I was waiting for a not-outrageouslybrilliant song to go to the bar. For two hours, it never came.’ Hamish MacBain, associate features editor
@ESmagofficial
@ESmagofficial
Editor Laura Weir Deputy editor Anna van Praagh Features director Alice-Azania Jarvis Acting art director Emma Woodroofe Fashion features director Katrina Israel Commissioning editor Dipal Acharya Associate features editor Hamish MacBain Features writer Frankie McCoy
Acting art editor Andy Taylor Art editor Jessica Landon Picture editor Helen Gibson Picture desk assistant Clara Dorrington
Beauty editor Katie Service Deputy beauty and lifestyle editor Lily Worcester
Social media editor Natalie Salmon Office administrator/editor’s PA Niamh O’Keeffe
Merchandise editor Sophie Paxton Fashion editor Jenny Kennedy Fashion assistant Eniola Dare Chief sub editor Matt Hryciw Deputy chief sub editor Nick Howells
Contributing editors Lucy Carr-Ellison, Tony Chambers, James Corden, Hermione Eyre, Richard Godwin, Daisy Hoppen, Jemima Jones, Anthony Kendal, David Lane, Mandi Lennard, Annabel Rivkin, Teo van den Broeke, Nicky Yates (style editor at large), Hikari Yokoyama Group client strategy director Deborah Rosenegk Head of magazines Christina Irvine
ES Magazine is published weekly and is available only with the London Evening Standard. ES Magazine is published by Evening Standard Ltd, Northcliffe House, 2 Derry Street, Kensington, London W8 5TT. ES is printed web offset by Wyndeham Bicester. Paper supplied by Perlen Paper AG. Colour transparencies or any other material submitted to ES Magazine are sent at owner’s risk. Neither Evening Standard Ltd nor their agents accept any liability for loss or damage. © Evening Standard Ltd 2016. Reproduction in whole or part of any contents of ES Magazine without prior permission of the editor is strictly prohibited
13.10.17 ES MAGAZINE 7
MEN’S STYLE What to buy now
Big Ben’s bit on the side
by TEO VAN DEN BROEKE, style director OF esquire UK
Amazing shade
Salle Privée Todd aviator sunglasses in brown tortoise, £318
Salle Privée Brett square sunglasses, £247
Salle Privée Joseph sunglasses in amber, £318
Designs on your book shelf
Barber Osgerby, Projects, Phaidon, £59.95, is out now
Perhaps best known for designing the London 2012 Olympic torch (it looked a bit like a gold baseball bat), British duo Edward Barber and Jay Osgerby have, over the past two decades, produced some of the most important designs to come out of the UK. From the Tip Ton chair, conceived to tip back without sending you flying, to the ultra-understated Tab lamp, projects past, present and future are all covered in this retrospective tome.
On Point
22 es magazine 13.10.17
Berluti Keith Austin leather boot, £1,540 (berluti.com)
berluti aw17
Parisian bootmaker Berluti is best known for producing immaculately crafted, hand-patinated footwear for the world’s wealthy. For AW17, the LVMH brand has taken its sex appeal up a notch with the appointment of Colombian creative director Haider Ackermann. Known for his drapey, ultra-hip aesthetic, Ackermann’s first collection for Berluti is suitably louche — soft cashmere trackpants, oversized shearling coats and rich corduroy suits abound. It also includes a thumping array of pointy cowboy boots. Could we be witnessing the return of the winkle-picker? If Ackermann has anything to do with it, we may well be.
Ben Machell steps up to the mic for a round of stag do karaoke
S
o, last time, I was halfway through telling you about a mate’s stag do in London. What had begun with me being trapped in a centrifugal death spiral at the Olympic velodrome will now end with me doing karaoke in town. The cycling was traumatic. But karaoke? Karaoke I can manage. In fact, over the years, I have developed into a quietly confident karaoke artist. It’s not that I can sing, not as such, but more what I consider my ability to interpret, convey and connect. And making that connection with the audience is key. You have to look at the other people in the room — properly stare at them — for the duration of the whole song. It also helps, I have found, to grip the microphone as tightly as possible. Do not allow it to be prised from your hands until you’ve finished. You have rights. I really can’t stress that enough.
“I was going to unleash Barbra Streisand’s ‘Woman in Love’ on a group of lagered-up thirty-somethings” I knew what I was going to sing. Barbra Streisand’s ‘Woman in Love’ remains one of the most hauntingly erotic songs ever recorded and I’d been giving some pretty big talk about how I was going to unleash it on our group of eight lagered-up thirty-somethings. Only then we got to the venue and a quiet doubt took hold. As each of us took the mic to perform a string of modern classics — Avril Lavigne’s ‘Sk8er Boi’, R Kelly’s ‘Ignition (Remix)’, anything by Will Smith — I felt increasingly self-conscious about doing my Streisand number. Why? Perhaps it was the crowd. I mean, half of the guys were from Norwich, so I thought that maybe they weren’t the massive Babs fans that most red-blooded metropolitan males are. Anyway, by the time the groom had downed a dirty pint, we were all singing Rage Against the Machine, so I knew my chance had passed. Afterwards, I felt sheepish. I felt like I’d not just let myself down but also Streisand and, to a lesser extent, Barry and Robin Gibb, who had originally written the track. Why hadn’t I just sung it? The next week was a vortex of self-doubt until, the following weekend, I was at my friend Laura’s wedding party when I saw she had hired a mobile karaoke booth. Immediately, I knew what I had to do. I gripped the mic, shut my eyes tight and gave ‘Woman in Love’ absolutely everything. And as I hit the high notes, I was myself once more. I was redeemed.
Jonny Cochrane; Josh Shinner
Founded by Patrick Munster, former creative director of Euro megabrand Scotch & Soda, Salle Privée is dedicated to producing functional, stylish menswear. Though the pima cotton T-shirts and perfectly cut trench coats are second to none, it’s the new range of sunglasses that really stuns. Consisting of eight minimalist styles, including an opaque round keyhole frame and a block bridge aviator, they’re available exclusively from Salle Privée. (salle-privee.com)
COACH jacket, £995; necklace, POA (uk.coach. com). BURBERRY T-shirt, £150 (uk.burberry.com)
The
growing pains of
James Franco He’s the star of TV’s most talked-about new drama The Deuce, and one of Hollywood’s most prolific actors. James Franco talks to Dan Rookwood about past mistakes and life as a recovering workaholic PhotographS BY Victor Demarchelier stylED BY Jenny Kennedy
J
ames Franco settles into his armchair, takes a slurp of black coffee and smiles. He looks pretty happy with his current lot. His new show, The Deuce — which was created by David Simon of The Wire fame and charts the rise of the porn industry in sleazy, early-1970s New York — is the most talked-about and most universally acclaimed thing on TV at the moment. Franco, ever the prolific polymath, not only plays the leads of both Brooklyn-raised Bar stars: James Franco in twin brothers Vincent and The Deuce with Chris Coy Frankie Martino, but executive produced the series and directed two of its eight episodes. He is a key part of its instantaneous success, and he knows it. Franco is beefier in the flesh than you might expect. He fills out his form-fitting striped
Breton sweater. He looks good, and also smells good — as he should, given that he is now the ruggedly bestubbled face of Coach for Men fragrance (he was also in the front row at the label’s SS18 show). ‘I’m wearing it right now,’ he says. It is a far cry from the first time he flogged fragrance. As a tearaway teenager growing up in the Bay Area tech town of Palo Alto, where his late father was a Silicon Valley entrepreneur and his mother is a writer, he got arrested, he says, for shoplifting designer aftershave from a department store. ‘I was the big cologne guy in junior high,’ he continues. ‘We were stealing it and selling it at school. I guess that was the last time I really wore fragrance.’ That was a long while ago. Franco turns 40 next April. He’s changed. He used, for example, to be relentless on social media, and enjoyed using it to post provocative selfies and
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Instead, the clean, white-painted walls (an arctic Dulux White Mist) provides the perfect canvas to offset Kendal’s impressive collection of artwork, which runs the gamut from a drawing of Kate Moss by Tracey Emin to a bronze water feature by Italian architect Carlo Scarpa. ‘I’m quite in love with it but my husband thinks it looks like something from a Seventies Chinese restaurant,’ he giggles. The couple’s hero piece, however, is a large black-andwhite photograph of Isabella Blow taken by Lucy Ferry shot through a stocking, giving the image a beautiful mottled effect. ‘I met Isabella at a party when I was 20. I remember going back to her hotel suite, [where] she decided she was going to take all her clothes off, get in the bath and clean her teeth. It was an interesting experience.’ Years later Kendal spotted the photograph at one of Ferry’s exhibitions and he had to have it. Elsewhere in the all-white space is a corner-sized shrine to colour. ‘It’s a celebration of primaries. We call it the Memphis room.’ There are also other meaningful
‘We asked a friend to do a reading at our wedding but I had no idea that he would write the prose himself nor how beautiful it would be’
‘The table and vases are by Dinosaur Designs, which is an Australian brand. It has been going for about 40 years and made some of the jewellery Kylie Minogue wore in “Better The Devil You Know”, and the two ceramics on the left I did at a pottery’
‘A collection of blackand-white images from my personal and professional collection hangs in the Kendal and Partners office space, ranging from pieces from Herb Ritts to Tracey Emin and Daniel Jackson’
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objects that punctuate the space. Take the handwritten poem, for example, given pride of place in a living room cabinet, suspended in a clear glass frame. Written for the couple by a close friend, it was read at their wedding last year at Lismore Castle in Ireland. The friend later had it framed as a gift. ‘We asked our friend Justin to do a reading but I had no idea that he would write the prose himself nor how beautiful it would be.’ Kendal was born and brought up in Perth, Australia, and fashion has always been a central part of his life. His mother was an ex-model turned finance director and many of his early memories include her ‘wearing YSL and Giorgio Armani on the school run. I suppose fashion was always something my sister and I were exposed to and loved.’ He also did his homework, first studying business and marketing at Murdoch University in Perth (it was there that he first met Prendergast ‘drunk in a nightclub’) followed by fashion design at Sydney’s prestigious National Art School. His first big break in London, having moved here in 2004, was working for Anya Hindmarch, packing boxes. He took the position with a pinch of salt: ‘It’s about positive energy and working hard and not being afraid to get your hands dirty.’ The rest is history, but the frenetic pace of fashion makes coming back to a temple of serenity all the more comforting. ‘There is so much noise that goes on in the world; it’s nice to have something calm to come home to.’
‘The sofa is from Poliform, the cushions are Hermès, the chairs are by Marcel Breuer and The Bauhaus pieces were bought in Berlin’
‘The office hosts a reconditioned German army table and 1950s chairs. The photo of a man is by Prem Sahib’
get the look
the pendant lamp Mini Crescent by Lee Broom, £485 (leebroom.com)
the side table Bergen oak bench, £275 (coxandcox.co.uk)
the sofa Mendini two-seater sofa, £599 (made.com)
the chair Wassily Chair by Marcel Breuer, £1,333, at conranshop.co.uk
the houseplant Swiss cheese potted plant, £235 (outthere interiors.com)
the statement table Sienna table in marble and gold leaf, £399 (swooneditions.com)
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