Keeping the art of Tivaevae alive

By Kathrine Reid

Tivaevae - The word is as Polynesian in flavour as the exotic names of the pacific places it belongs to: the Cook Islands of Rarotonga, Aitutaki, Mangaia, and Atiu (to name just a few). A visit to any of these Islands is a visit to paradise.

The giving and receiving of Tivaevae is very sacred to the people of the Cook Islands - it is a sign of love, respect, honour and pride, marking important events in our lives whether it is a birthday, wedding, funeral or graduation, just to name a few....

There is no written record on how and when the sewing of Tivaevae was introduced to the women of the Cook Islands. Some say it was the wives of the London Missionary Society Missionaries who arrived in 1821 and others believe it was the three Catholic nuns (one Irish, two French) who came from Tahiti in 1895 and taught sewing at the local Catholic school. I feel sure both these groups had an input into what is known today as Tivaevae.

To translate the word Tivaevae risks losing its meaning and poetry. The ‘loose’ translation – Polynesian bed cover – is inadequate, while the literal alternative – to patch repeatedly is too narrow. Simply put, Tivaevae is a term that is now used to refer to all applique and piecework fabrics from the islands of Polynesia.

Did you know that traditional hand embroidered Tivaevae aren’t measured by monetary cost and are therefore rarely for sale? Their value is reflected in the love and patience their creators put into them.

Throughout Eastern Polynesia, Tivaevae (or Tifaifai as they are known in Hawaii) appear in weddings and funerals more often than in any other ritual context. Special Tivaevae form part of a mother’s wedding gift to her daughter.

Even death does not conclude a person’s contact with Tivaevae. A year or so after a funeral comes the unveiling, where close relatives and friends will bring Tivaevae to cover the commemorative head stone. In turn each of them is then called upon to come forward and lift one of these precious cloths, layer after layer, until

the head stone is finally revealed. This practice is commonplace in the Cook Islands. Relatives and friends often strive to place several Tivaevae in the grave to indicate their regard for the deceased.

Kura Taripo prides herself on her different designs and patterns, all handmade.

Jacinda Adern was gifted one of Kura’s Tivaevae masterpieces on her recent visit to the Cook Islands.

Tivaevae patterns and techniques have evolved into styles which have become quite distinctive to the Cook Islands. Tivaevae reflect the women’s surroundings and are usually designs of flowers, leaves, birds, fish, insects and animals.

Rosina Wichman shares her Tivaevae story and her superb embroidered Tivaevae with crocheted edges.

“Both of my grandmothers, first got me interested in the craft. Dad’s mother, Matakaiariki Wichman, cut a couple of Tivaevae’s while staying with my parents on a visit to New Zealand. I was too young and had no idea how or what colours to sew in embroidery. She cut five Tivaevae’s (Grapes pattern) as she was well known for filling her Tivaevae’s with leaves!!! It took me ,what seemed forever, to complete. Grapes were embroidered then sewn to leaves which were sewn with the V stitch. I was useless! My stitching looked awful. Not even my mum Mata (aka Tata Wichman), and her sister Teremoana Kokaua, helped me!

My other grandmother was my mum’s mother, Tearikivaine Goodwin from Muri, (aka my little Nana) Papa Tangaroa Kainuku’s mother, her style was totally different, 1 inch squares/ hexagon, sewen by hand, I was absolutely useless! I had to use a bigger size, because I only had patience to do a cushion.

Our grandmothers were very talented, I then was very blessed to meet my dear friend and mentor Mamati Tamoe, (aka The Queen Elizabeth Kavana). She taught me so much, and gave me the confidence to cut Tivaevaes. Although my grandmothers got me interested, it was Mamati and another mama from Arorangi, who came to teach our Vainetini in Hastings to cut Tivaevaes. This gave me a confidence to cut them myself. It is a craft for life. I’m 62 this June and I’m still learning!”

The beauty of Tivaevae starts very simply by choosing the right materials, the right colour palette and then the craft comes alive in your hands. The secrets are passed from one generation to the next.

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Ina Bishop spends quiet time calling on her Tupuna (grandparent or ancestor), to guide her before she puts scissors to material.

All her work is created freehand and no two pieces are the same. Ina refuses to look at other Tivaevae as it may taint her creative flow. A true artist who loves to share her gift, we are proud to work with her.

“The significance of our Tivaevae are the life experiences, stories of our culture, papa’anga (genealogy), knowledge and our traditions. These are interwoven throughout each methodical stitch, pattern, colour and design. The weaving process is passed down from one generation to the next.”

Tivaevae Collectables has the following range of Tivaevae to reflect the vibrancy, colours and moods of the Pacific.

Hand made Tivaevae are priceless pieces of art.

Handmade Tivaevae come in a variety of colour’s, design and detail. The ultimate gift you can wrap yourself in and feel the warmth and love of the Cook Islands. These are lovingly crafted by Cook Island women.

Cut and tacked Tivaevae. Most of the skill lies in the cutting and tacking. You will be able to find pre-cut and tacked Tivaevae to save you doing this tricky part of the process. Cut and tacked Tivaevae are all made in the Cook Islands.

Machine made Tivaevae – “easy care” Tivaevae, machine appliquéd for everyday use. After a global search for the best machine embroiderers, we now have a team of 14 independent sewers from Penebel, a small village in central Bali. This is a new generation of Tivaevae – one that is practical, affordable and sensational.

We have a wonderful friendship with all our Tivaevae family and are very proud that we are able to work with such a diverse and lovely group of women while keeping the art of Tivaevae alive.

Alice Rogers story:

Look at this precious Tivaevae!

It was first made for my children’s father for his hair cutting, and then re gifted for my son’s hair cutting. So, it was made in the 1990’s. It’s a small part of one of our Tivaevae’s and I got it framed for my daughter’s room. A little bit of culture for her to be proud of.

When I have travelled or felt a long way away from family, to wrap myself in Tivaevae centred me, it brought me home. The colours took me back to the Cook Islands, where I longed to be...

Naketa’s story:

I watched my grandmother painstakingly sew this for my 21st (along with other Tivaevae for my sister/cousins) and took the Tivaevae wrapped in a pareu everywhere with me - even when we travelled overseas and lived in Saudi Arabia. It’s too precious to use, and too beautiful to put away, so my husband surprised me and got it framed.

Angela’s story:

We planned a huge celebration for Nanas 80th. I especially wanted to spend time with her to learn Tivaevae. Unfortunately, she passed away prior, to the shock of our family. My nana loved to make Tivaevae, you can see she was very good at it.

My mum had given me a set of pillowcases that I cherished. Some work colleagues framed this one for my birthday. It is admired by all and often a subject of conversation!!

Love my Nan Rangi Paara

Mike’s mother made a Tivaevae for his wedding but didn’t get to finish the cushion to go with it. In honour of his mum from Arorangi, Rarotonga, he framed it.

Gone but never forgotten... love in every stitch.

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Previously known as Lagoon Lodges, the site was redeveloped in 2011. The impact of COVID-19 on world travel saw many changes. The resort shut down, along with most of the world, resulting in less money, guests and more time to spend on developing the resort.

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