Culture Essay

Exposing Colour blindness In Fashion: How Black Women Influence a Generation Through Fashion and Media Erin Louise Gribbon Fashion Culture & Context AD4603

Exposing blindness Fashion: Black Influence Gener Through and

g Colour s In How Women e a ration h Fashion Media

Whilst there is still the idealisation around the “blond, blue-eyed models,” black c i n c r e a s i n g d o m i n a n t f o r c e i n t h e 2 1 s t C e n t u r y f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y, d u e s o c i a l c u l t u r e a Naomi

Camp

“In the past, there were more opportunities for black models but the trend towards blonde women has This essay will Analyse and examine how Black women of importance have used fashion t often portrayed in the media. Looking at how Coleman and Campbell tackled the same div

Zendaya Coleman, from an African American background, has grown up Channel, a popular channel for Gen Z children. Influencing Gen Z into is now considered a “multi-hyphenate powerhouse” pioneering for diver believes she is ‘Hollywood's acceptable version of a Black girl’ and aim

Her influence over Hilfigures 2019 runway collection saw not only w been marked as a major statement for diversity in fashion.

Zendaya her, who have ‘fearlessly pioneered and opened doors’ and solely be The clothes, music and venue were all a spirited salute to blackness, continuing the them African American funk music, with its driving bass lines, was a fusion of soul, jaz of funk dressing lie in the black ghettoes of America, where the successful wore hig conform to white society's values. The look was indisputably carried off by urban A f r o m b l a c k t o w h i t e c u l t u r e i n N e w Yo r k , L o s A n g e l e s , a n d S a n F r a n c i s c o , a n d o n t e r o t i c a n d o s t e n t a t i o u s . Z e n d a y a ’s i n c l u s i o n o f d i v e r s i t y i n t h e s h o w n o t o n l y s t r e e v e n m o r e o s t e n t a t i o u s i n h e r d e s i g n s . C l o t h e s w o r n i n t h e s h o w, i n c l u d i n g b e l l - b o t then made her collection widely available to purchase, through websites such as ASO the narrative behind the clothing: clothes designed by a diverse team with a Black c Z e n d a y a b e c a m e t h e f i r s t b l a c k m o d e l o n t h e f r o n t o f I n S t y l e ’s m a g a z i n e . E x c l u s i v e l y

‘I’ve always has a Black stylist and black hair and make-up artists, but we wer and

ho

cultural influences such as Zendaya Coleman and Naomi Campbell are becoming an and how they project their outspoken voice through their fashion choices and media.

pbell

quotes:

s again become extreme. In magazines, on the catwalk, I see blonde, blue-eyed models everywhere.” o project their voices louder and how they are overtaking the ‘blonde, blue-eyed models’ ersity issues in separate ways to impact society into making a cultural change in fashion.

with her target audience, since she started acting aged 14 on Disney adulthood, a generation which has reignited the BLM movement, Zendaya rsity in the fashion industry like many before her, however she still m s t o l e a v e a l e g a c y, w h i c h a l l o w s f o r t h e y o u n g e r d i v e r s i t y t o f o l l o w.

women of colour but plus size and models aged up to 70 and has a is aware and knowledgeable of the women who have come before elieve this is the only reason she is ‘able to exist in this space. m e o f b l a c k w o m a n h o o d f r o m a p r e v i o u s c o l l a b o r a t i o n . C o l e m a n w a s i n s p i r e d b y t h e 7 0 ’s zz and R&B. Funk also came to be associated with radical black politics. The roots ghly flamboyant clothes to advertise their riches in their own way - one that did not African Americans better than their white counterparts. The "funky chic' look spread to Europe. But the white adaptation of the funk look was more toned down and less e n g t h e n e d t h e 7 0 ’s u r b a n A f r i c a n A m e r i c a n f a s h i o n n a r r a t i v e b u t a l l o w e d h e r t o b e t t o m p a n t s a n d w i d e b r i m H a t s , s h i n e l i g h t o n t h e f u n k f a s h i o n o n t h e 7 0 ’s . Z e n d a y a OS, meaning that consumers could not just easily buy the clothing, but also buy into u l t u r a l h i s t o r y b e h i n d i t . F u r t h e r i n g o n t h i s m e s s a g e o f B l a c k c u l t u r e a n d d i v e r s i t y, featuring Black designers with the aim of, ‘celebration of Black talent’ Zendaya said

re able to work with two talented young Black photographers on this shoot too’

opes

to

‘Encourage

people

Something in her

to

which collaboration

buy she

from

Black

successfully Hilfiger

with

designers’

in

achieved 2019.

N o w, C a m p b e l l m a y h a v e n o t d e s i g n e d a c o l l a b o r a t i o n w i t h a s t r o n g connection to her diverse culture but, she to is all for supporting Black a r t i s t s i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. C a m p b e l l j o i n e d f o r c e s w i t h P a t M c G r a t h t o b e c o m e t h e f i r s t g l o b a l f a c e o f P a t M c G r a t h ’s L a b ’s . T h i s c o l l a b o r a t i o n w i l l b e a m a s s i v e s t e p i n t h e r i g h t d i r e c t i o n o f d i v e r s i t y, e s p e c i a l l y i n t h e m a k e - u p i n d u s t r y, w i t h m a n y p e o p l e o f c o l o u r a r g u i n g t h a t f a c t t h a t i t i s a challenge for them to find the right shade of foundation compared to a white person. Could the main reason behind this collaboration spring from the fact t h a t i n t h e e a r l y y e a r s o f C a m p b e l l ’s m o d e l l i n g c a r e e r s h e b e l i e v e d t h a t : ‘Black

models

are

being

sidelined

by

major

modelling

agencies’

This collaboration between a renowned Black make-up artist and model supports the idea of how diverse women of importance have used fashion to project their voices louder by collaborating to celebrate how diverse the fashion industry is becoming. Campbell spoke about how the collaboration was not just an opportunity that she needs to embrace but something she could do for her entire culture.

In this way both women are becoming the next pioneers for Black culture in fashion. By supporting not only black creatives already in the industry but diverse creatives emerging through it is being easier and more of a ‘norm’ that barriers are broken, and we are bringing to see more culture rich fashion made by a more diverse set of creatives.

Zendaya's awareness for the models who ‘fearlessly pioneered and opened doors’ before her reflects on Naomi Campbell, who began to change the landscape of fashion back in 1986. One milestone in Campbells fight for diversity was in 1991, where she was the first b l a c k m o d e l t o a p p e a r o n t h e f r o n t o n F r e n c h Vo g u e . D e s i g n e d b y I s a a c M i z r a h i , T h e To t e m P o l e d r e s s , r i f f i n g o n N a t i v e A m e r i c a n s o u r c e s a s w e l l a s m i d - 2 0 t h - c e n t u r y k i t s c h , h i t t h e c o v e r o f Ti m e i n S e p t e m b e r. T h e b r i g h t c o l o u r e d fabric collated with bold shapes mirrors the native clothing of African tribes. “ T h e r e ’s a tongue in cheek with this dress,” Ms. Pearlman said, “but i t ’s also incredibly glamorous.”

T h e t o t e m p o l e i s a s y m b o l i c s t a t u e t h a t c o m m e m o r a t e s a n c e s t r y, h i s t o r y, a n d p e o p l e . To t e m s , o f t e n c a r v e d b y h a n d , a r e s y m b o l i c i m a g e o f n a t i v e America and for Campbell to wear this chosen dress on Times first cover celebrates and honors a historic diversity: strongly carrying Campbell's m e s s a g e o f d i v e r s i t y i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. Z e n d a y a ’s m a g a z i n e c o v e r a l s o commemorates the work of Black designers, however unlike Campbell who wore something linked to her diverse heritage, Zendaya is more about the team w h o w o r k s a r o u n d h e r, s u p p o r t i n g t h e d i v e r s e m i n o r i t y i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y.

I O

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The results show a growing trend in diverse awarness across fas issues in the fashion indusrty but are becoming increasingly more by black women. The results showing that consumers believe that indicates that through Black models and other Black women in t media platforms educating consumers on the truth behind the

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shion and social media. More consumers are aware of diversity e aware that their social media feed is becoming more influenced t black fashion trends have a stronger connection to their heritage the indusrty theres been a greater connection made across social e fight for diversity in the fashion industry and also in society.

A N

M S

In 2007 magazine publishers still believed that white women will not buy a m a g a z i n e w i t h a B l a c k w o m a n o n t h e c o v e r. T h i s i s w h e r e t h e d i ff e r e n c e shows between Campbell and Zendaya, Zendaya, A fellow Gen Z, has grown up with her target audience and has also grown up with various social media platforms in which she can voice out her options and influence on c u r r e n t i s s u e s i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. W h e r e a s C a m p b e l l g r e w u p i n a t i m e where social media was not the main media platform and fashion consumers were still buying magazines, with blonde, blue eyed women on the front.

C a m p b e l l ’s m a g a z i n e c o v e r w a s m o r e i n f l u e n t i a l i n t e r m s o f b e i n g o n t h e f i r s t i n a f a s h i o n l a n d s c a p e t o s h o w d i v e r s i t y, w h e r e a s Z e n d a y a , despite also being the first on the cover of InStyle magazine was not as influential in terms of people viewing the magazine, so having the diverse team supporting her on the magazine would be more influence for diversity in the fashion industry at the time.

E d w a r d E n n i n f u , f i r s t B l a c k e d i t o r - i n - c h i e f f o r B r i t i s h Vo g u e , i s f o l l o w i n g the new norm of having black icons on the front covers, including his first cover as editor showing mixed-race model and feminist activist A d w o a A b o a h a s t h e c o v e r s t a r. S h o w i n g t h e c h a n g e t h a t h a s h a p p e n e d since 2007 in magazine media platforms, as Gen Z break through into adulthood, models like Zendaya continue to pioneer diversity throughout the fashion industry just like Naomi Campbell and other iconic models have done before, just with added help of social media.

“Zendaya said she has a specific goal in mind - to open doors for other black creatives.” (“Zendaya Aims to Represent Black Beauty and Culture The ...”) The 25-year-old superstar also expressed thanks to the other "black beauties" that came before her, sharing that she worked with s t y l i s t L u x u r y L a w t o p a y h o m a g e t o b l a c k m o d e l s w h o p a v e d t h e w a y.

Zendaya is very much aware of the ‘black beauties’ that came before her and she is grateful for the legacies they have left b e h i n d . S h e n o w p o s s e s s e s t h e d u t y t o c o n t i n u e t h e l e g a c y. " I d o n ’ t like speaking about things that I don’t know about,” she said.

“But cultural appropriation is something that I can understand, and s o m e t h i n g t h a t I c a n a p p r e c i a t e p e o p l e b e i n g c o n c e r n e d a b o u t . Yo u w i t n e s s it all the time, and for me at least, being someone who is very proud of where I am from, it is important to be vocal.” Much like Campbell, Zendaya is no stranger to being vocal and speaking out on what is right.

Zendaya must find diverse ways to support and influence diversity in the f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. C a m p b e l l a n d Z e n d a y a b o t h i n f l u e n c e d i f f e r e n t g e n e r a t i o n s s o i t i s i m p o r t a n t f o r t h e m t o u s e t h e i r p l a t f o r m s a c c o r d i n g l y. Z e n d a y a u s e s her social media to influence and create awareness and assert her influence of black diversity in mainstream fashion and ‘While she doesn’t consider herself to be an activist, she wants to use her platform to shine a spotlight.’

S i n c e C a m p b e l l b e g a n h e r c a r e e r, s h e b e l i e v e s ‘ B l a c k m o d e l s a r e b e i n g s i d e l i n e d

“I’m happy that everyone’s all on the same page, that now everyone feels comfortable to come out about their experiences,” says Campbell. “But for me, nothing is changed. I am going to speak the same way.”

by major modelling agencies.’ And due to Models, such as Naomi Campbell, G r a c e J o n e s a n d Ty r a B a n k s i n f l u e n c i n g t h e i n d u s t r y, t h e r e h a s b e e n a g r o w i n g i n f l u e n c e o f b l a c k m o d e l s o n t h e r u n w a y, h o w e v e r, N g o n i C h i k w e n e g e r e , a Black designer, sees a similarity in the message Zendaya is trying to spread in her work. ‘These celebrities have grown up like I have grown up. Where you love fashion but do not always see yourself represented’ Ngoni says.

‘This has been happening in the fashion world, but because the people doing this were not as famous as Rihanna or Zendaya, it was not as mainstream’ Which leads me to question how influential has social media and media coverage been in the two women careers, when it came to raising awareness of Black culture in mainstream fashion?

There is a greater awareness now of diverse models that are utilising their social media platforms to create awareness through their content, u n l i k e i n t h e 1 9 8 0 - 9 0 ’s w h e n C a m p b e l l w a s b r e a k i n g t h r o u g h d i v e r s e barriers using magazine covers, fashion catwalks and press coverage.

C a m p b e l l s c r e a t e d a c o m m u n i t y o f d i v e r s i t y w i t h i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. S h e h a s t a k e n t o w a r d a y o u n g e r g e n e r a t i o n o f m o d e l s , a n d t h e m e n t o r i­ n g r o l e t h a t h a s m a d e h e r a s u r r o g a t e m o t h e r t o m a n y i n h e r i n d u s t r y. T h a t s e n s e o f r e s p o n s i b i l i t y — that desire to be part of the change in fashion, and to demand greater Black r e p r e s e n t a t i o n , c a n b e t r a c e d t o t h e s t a r t o f C a m p b e l l ’s c a r e e r a t a g e 1 6 .

Campbell is unapologetic about her outspokenness having been convicted of two assaults and having sued a tabloid for photographing her attending Narcotics Anonymous. She has spoken out about her genuine fatigue at the notion of the “angry Black woman.” Often this phrase has been explicitly or implicitly attached to narratives about Campbell, adding another barrier to the diversity issue the fashion industry faces. She speaks. “Is it now that we h a v e p e r m i s s i o n t o s p e a k ? We l l , I h a v e a l w a y s s p o k e n . ” S h e h a s n e v e r b e e n asked to speak. Up for diversity but believes it is her duty to say something about this rising issue, which is not just in the fashion industry but in society as well. Campbell is ahead of her time she has always spoke forwardly about what she believes is right and wrong and is a strong feminine advocate for B l a c k f e m a l e s t h r o u g h o u t t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. T h e o n l y d i f f e r e n c e w e s e e today with Campbell is that she speaks with greater intentionality and is a w a r e t h a t s h e i s a B l a c k A f r i c a n A m e r i c a n w o m a n i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y.

In today's society she is more influential than ever: nothing has changed with what Campbell is speaking out about. She has ‘always spoken’ out f o r B l a c k w o m e n a l l a r o u n d t h e g l o b e , n o t j u s t i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y.

Both

models

have

a

‘ Ta k e - n o - s * * t ’

attitude

when

“There were a few things that I would do when I was younger that I was told were bad for my race,” Campbell says. “Now the things I do are not just for me anymore. I think more of my culture and my race, as opposed to thinking about just me.”

it comes to speaking’ Krentcil, F, their minds.

Campbell has been extensively critisied for her outspoken opinions and has never been the most likeable supermodel around, and as established, throughout her career she has never shied away from talking about the i s s u e s s u r r o u n d i n g c o l o u r i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. C a m p b e l l B e l i e v e s i t i s all about ‘selling … blonde and blue-eyed girls’ in the fashion industry and believes that colour diversity needs to be more prominent in the i n d u s t r y. Z e n d a y a s h a r e d t h e s a m e c o n c e p t w h i c h i n s p i r e d t h e H i l f i g e r collaboration. She ‘wanted to make a show inspired by the women who made it possible for (her) to be in the position where (she is) now’ ( “ Z e n d a y a D e b u t s H e r F i r s t C o l l e c t i o n w i t h To m m y H i l f i g e r I n . . . ” ) .

Including 59 black models on the Runway Zendaya commented on a c o n v e r s a t i o n b a c k s t a g e i n r e f e r e n c e t o t h e b a t t l e o f Ve r s a i l l e s f a s h i o n s h o w. A s h o w w h i c h s a w a g r e a t a m o u n t o f d i v e r s i t y a n d barriers broken to raise money for the restoration of a historic cause.

Zendaya is not just another unknowledgeable voice in the battle for d i v e r s i t y i n t h e f a s h i o n c o m m u n i t y. D e s p i t e h e r a g e s h e c o m m e n t s ‘If I don’t know something, then I ask people who are actually on the front lines doing the work’ unlike others who just preach BLM due to the trend.

Z e n d a y a , h a s w o n a V i s i o n a r y Aw a r d f o r h e r e f f o r t s i n p r o m o t i n g d i v e r s i t y and inclusion in fashion and film and has become a ‘Leading example for younger generations and beyond’ Far,E 2020. She is the future for a c t i v i s t s i n t h e f a s h i o n c o m m u n i t y, u n l i k e C a m p b e l l w h o h a s h a d t h e notion attached to her that she is an ‘angry Black woman.’ Zendaya's approach to diversity in the fashion industry is more calm, collective, a n d t h o u g h t f u l a n d i s j u s t a s i m p a c t f u l a s C a m p b e l l i n h e r e a r l y c a r e e r.

Colourism within the beauty and entertainment industries needs to end, and the battle for diversity in the fashion community continues to strengthen with the help of models such as Zendaya and Campbell, using their platforms to promote their outspoken opinions to the next generation. They understand their privilege as influential Black women and both models strive to become ‘real models’ instead of role-models and continuously support and surround themselves with people who share the same values and follow the effort to show how diverse the fashion industry can be. The Social culture of society is now becoming more inclusive of Black women in all industries, a l l o w i n g f o r a g r e a t e r a c c e p t a n c e o f d i v e r s i t y i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y. ‘ We ’ r e vastly too beautiful and far too interesting for me to be the only representation of that’

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