Designer issue 25

SHUBANKHAR RAY ON G-STAR RAW’S SIMPLE SOLUTION TO A COMPLEX PROBLEM

t e x t E RI N D E N N I S O N phot o grap h y A N D RE W A RTH UR styl ing A S H L E Y C H A RBO N N E A U m ak e u p A M Y S TRO Z Z I h ai r BO BBY E L L I O T mo d e l s N I C H O L A S @ N E XT KI M @ P H O TO G E N I C

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GREEN BRANDING IS MOST EFFECTIVE AS A ”SLOW BURN“ RATHER THAN A HARD, CLICHÉD SELL. BY SUBTLY INFUSING ETHICS INTO A BUSINESS BUILT ON ROI, RAW FOR THE OCEANS HAS BEGUN TO ALTER POP-CULTURE’S DNA.

The fashion world might have a reputation for being riddled with self-congratulatory systems of sycophancy, but Shubankhar Ray,

pioneering collaboration is in cooperation with The Vortex Project, a program created by sustainable platform, Parley for the Oceans.

G-Star RAW’s Global Brand Director, has never been one to fawn.

After hearing the world’s leading oceanic scientist speak

After obtaining a degree in chemistry, the former scientist became

and being organically introduced to Pharrell Williams at a Parley

disillusioned with the rigid institution. He went on to get his MBA, which

for the Oceans event last year, Ray was inspired to conceptualize

quickly turned into a lucrative advertising gig, all the while moonlighting

a solution to the paralyzing problem by raising awareness through

in the Manchester punk scene. The notable chasm between polymers

the vocal platforms of fashion. Through the exceptionally integrated

and anti-establishment rhetoric with a casual pit stop in media marketing

process that’s taken over 12 months to perfect, the Ocean’s collection

has made him an unlikely sartorial authority. In his words, each detour

is on par with the G-Star’s high-performance standards. With

has “changed his DNA.” You see, Ray’s just too busy standing at the

numerous tests, samples, and formula edits later, the garments are

intersection of science and pop-culture to be obsequious .

unidentifiable—there is no perceivable difference between denim

Since 1989, G-Star’s engineer-like approach is dedicated

manufactured from post-consumer waste and traditional cotton.

to understanding their product and consumer, taking a problem-

G-Star’s commitment to ethical production has been a

solver’s approach to purposeful design. From partnerships with

priority since 2008, when the company began experimenting with

Leica and Vitra to groundbreaking programs like RAW Gallery, a pop-

cotton alternatives. Back then, an independent auditor measured

up installation showcasing gallery style exhibitions of the runway

that 1% of their collection was entirely sustainable. Ray decided

collection and RAW Icon, which has featured notable celebrities such

to change the process from the inside out, making sustainability a

as Dennis Hopper, Benicio Del Toro, and Liv Tyler, Shubhankar has

condition for doing business by blending recycled materials they used

certainly added panache to the minimalist brand. His tenure aligns

into their most popular garments, consequently forcing retailers to

perfectly with G-Star’s examination of utilitarian solutions. Ray’s latest

sell sustainable products. As he explains it, green branding is most

progressive offering, RAW for the Oceans, is no different.

effective as a “slow burn” rather than a hard, clichéd sell. By the end

RAW for the Oceans is a long-term creative exploration,

of 2014, with the help from RAW for the Oceans, they’ll be at 20%.

where Bionic Yarn and G-Star have joined forces to innovate the

Shubankhar’s take on branding is both unexpected and

denim making process. Creatively directed by Pharrell Williams,

straightforward. He understands that in order to advance G-Star’s

Bionic Yarn develops and manufactures premium-textiles made with

mission of sustainability they have to change the industry. By subtly

fibers derived from recycled plastic bottles. The first high-performance

infusing ethics into a business built on ROI (with cool kids on the stoop

thread—which is unlike prior breakthroughs aimed solely at functional

and hallways lined with contrarians), they have begun to alter pop-

improvement—is also driven by environmental responsibility. The

culture’s DNA. A tall order, but not for an abstract-thinking futurist.

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