TIGHTEN YOUR GIRTH

Always tighten your girth

But which type of girth to tighten and how tight should it be? This month AMANDA MAC looks at some essential English saddle girth know-how.

Google ‘horse’ and ‘girth’, and some fairly hilarious (and at times blood chilling) images pop up depicting the consequences of failing to ensure your girth is adequately tightened. Clearly riding with your saddle located somewhere over your horse’s rump or hanging beneath its belly is counterproductive, although it may well give you an alternative view of the world!

Obviously a girth is designed to keep your saddle firmly in place. But of course, there’s more to it than that. So, before we explore some of the styles and types of girths on the market, let’s first look at some girth fitting basics.

Girth Length

Estimate what length of girth you need by first placing your saddle, saddle cloth, and any additional special padding on your horse. It helps to have a second pair of hands at this point, so ask a friend to hold a fabric tape measure on the middle billet hole on one side of the saddle, while you run the tape under your horse (approximately one hand’s width away from the back of the elbow) and up to the corresponding billet hole on the other side of the saddle. The measurement you obtain translates to the girth size you need. Beware of measuring an old girth to ascertain the length for a new girth, as the old one has probably stretched. If you’ve taken the time to measure for the correct girth length, you’ll be able to secure it evenly on the same billet holes on either side of the saddle, no matter whether you’re using a long girth, or a shorter girth for a monoflap jump saddle or dressage saddle. And while on the subject, for shorter girths make sure that you have around four fingers width (inserted flat against your horse’s side and the girth) between the top of the girth and the bottom of the saddle pad and flap on either side to avoid your horse’s skin being pinched.

At the very least, don’t use a girth that needs to be buckled at the top of the billets. This allows little or no room for tightening, plus riding with buckles pressing into your inside upper thigh is just plain uncomfortable.

How tight is tight?

An overly tight girth can be uncomfortable for your horse, as well as potentially interfering with their performance in sports that require a high level of exertion. The harder a horse works, the more their chest must expand in order to increase the flow of oxygen to their muscles. A girth that is too tight can limit their capacity to breathe correctly.

The trick is for the girth to be sufficiently tight to secure the saddle, without it being so tight that it interferes with the horse’s ability to breathe and move freely. And keep in mind that a well-balanced rider with an independent seat (be sure to read this month’s Brister’s Brief on that very topic) will help stabilise the saddle, while a poorly balanced rider may increase the likelihood of the saddle slipping.

So as a general rule when tacking up, first secure the girth sufficiently to hold the saddle in place but with room to spare. Then over the next few minutes gradually tighten the girth so that it has a snug fit against your horse’s body but with enough room for you to slide three fingers underneath it. And always check your girth approximately 10 minutes into your ride – chances are it will need tightening.

Fit, comfort, style and type

A properly fitted girth is essential for both the security of the saddle and the comfort of

your horse. Girths are available in a variety of sizes, shapes, colours and styles, and that’s without considering the wide selection of girth covers and accessories that are also on offer.

However, the right girth for your horse will depend on how your horse moves, its skin sensitivity in the girth area, its confirmation, how much they sweat while working, and whether the shape and width of the girth will distribute pressure evenly and comfortably along their barrel. Additionally, the girth should move slightly with the direction of the horse’s hair, but not so much as to cause rubbing or chafing.

Some girths have belly guards built into their design, which protect a horse from injuring itself on its shoe studs as it tucks its forelegs up over a jump, while others have built-in rings for training purposes. You’ll find girths with anatomical contours that allow your horse’s elbows to move relatively unimpeded, some that are similar in design to a straight belt, and others that are shaped to relieve pressure on the horse’s sternum.

Girths with elastic at one or both ends, or with built-in elastic panels offer greater flexibility and comfort for the horse’s ribcage during exercise, as well as making for easier girth fastening, while elasticated wool-lined girths are a popular choice for jumpers and eventers.

Leather Girth

Neoprene Girth

Synthetic Girth

Nylon String Girth

What are they made of?

Girths are manufactured in from a variety of materials – some natural, others synthetic. One of the main considerations here is whether or not your horse has an allergy to any materials – so, let’s take a look at some of your options:

Leather Girths: Definitely a traditional look, these girths are usually folded over three times so that the horse’s skin doesn’t come into contact with the cut edges of the leather. The girth may be constructed entirely of leather, or include webbing or elastic inserts. They are easy to care for, and if of good quality become softer over time. Usually available in black or brown, they can either be quite simple or feature contrasting colours, fancy stitching and overlays. Neoprene Girths: While these girths are affordable and easy-care, some horses are allergic to neoprene. Riders who have had problems with leather girths slipping often opt for these girths, which are generally wide and include elastic ends for greater comfort.

Synthetic Girths: If you’re looking for a girth that’s reasonably priced, easy to clean and surprisingly durable, this might be the right choice for you. The down side is that although they are constructed similarly to leather girths, they may not last as long. But there again, if you need several girths for different horses, this is definitely an affordable option. Synthetic girths are available in either black or brown, and can be either contoured or straight, while some are lined with sheepskin, synthetic fleece, or gel for added comfort.

String Girths: Made of multiple strings of mohair, wool, cotton or nylon, this girth is cool, allows air flow, dries quickly and is a popular choice for combating slippage and irritated skin. However, while they may be perfect for some horses, others may be pinched or chaffed by the strings, which can move independently of one another. Cotton string girths should be hand-washed in cold water to avoid shrinkage while nylon string girths can be machine washed but never bleached, which permanently yellows the nylon. For mohair and wool, wash according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Webbing or Fabric Girths: These are often the girth of choice for a horse that does well in a soft girth. They’re simple, affordable and are best hand washed in cool water.

Wool or Synthetic Fleece Lining: Many girths are available with the option of either a wool or synthetic fleece lining. Genuine wool helps to wick sweat away from the skin, but both options are ideal for a horse that needs a soft surface against its skin. Some horses that tend to be ‘girthy’ (see our sidebar) will often benefit from the comfort of a fleecy lining.

Dealing with ‘girthy’ horses

Horses who object to having the girth tightened are sometimes known as ‘girthy’. They might flick their tail, stamp, try to move away, pin their ears, bite or kick out. Although bad manners and dangerous behaviour should never be tolerated, chances are that in this instance, your horse is trying to tell you that they are uncomfortable or in some way distressed. This shouldn’t ever be ignored, so here are some potential problem areas to investigate:

Check for pain and discomfort: And not just around the obvious back and girth areas, but also their legs, head and mouth. While not directly related to the girth, horses are good at connecting the dots, and if they’re in discomfort in any way while they’re ridden, they may associate being tacked up with what later causes them pain. It’s also possible that a problem with the hindgut is causing girthing to be uncomfortable – so if in doubt, talk to your vet. Assess your horse’s tack: Look for problems with positioning, fit, wear and cleanness. Has the bit developed any rough or sharp edges? Is the bridle clean and supple? Are there any potential pressure points on the underside of the saddle and does it fit properly? Are your girth and saddle cloth clean and in good condition?

Is it you? Do you carefully place the saddle on your horse’s back, ensuring that your saddle cloth is properly positioned and wrinkle-free? Do you tighten the girth gradually, or in one swift movement? Take stock of your approach - if you’re not gentle, or tend to be a bit impatient as you tack up, your horse is likely to become distressed.

Try out a different girth: Some girths have no give and can be restricting and uncomfortable. Borrowing different girths to see if they make a difference can be helpful – just be sure that they’re the right size so you have enough holes to tighten them gradually. ‘That’ girthy horse: The fact of the matter is that every now and then there is ‘that’ girthy horse – the one that no matter what you do or how gently you treat it, will register their disapproval at the idea of the girth being tightened. This may well stem back to problems from their early training days, or from a too-tight girth when they were competing, and no matter if you have tried your best to solve the problem, they may remain forever girthy. That said, it’s extremely important to make sure that all possible causes of discomfort have been examined, for the sake of your horse’s comfort and for your peace of mind.

If you can’t pinpoint that ‘girthy’ problem on your own, don’t be afraid to seek out expert advice, perhaps ask your vet when he or she is paying a visit anyway, or talk to your local saddlery, or a riding school instructor for example.