Travel: A horse lover’s paradise

TRAVEL

A horse lover’s paradise

An hour south of Seville, the capital of Andalusia, lies the legendary town of El Rocio. MATHILDE GREGOIRE shares some of its magic.

Spain’s ‘Wild West’ town of El Rocio is a horse lover’s paradise. Its specially adapted infrastructure features broad, sandy, equine friendly roads, and parking spots reserved for horses at the entrance of bars and intersections even have corrals set up for riders to lunge their horses. In this town, horses are the heroes, and they have priority over motor vehicles.

Each year, during the weekend leading up to Pentecost Monday, the town celebrates the Romería, also known as the Pilgrimage of El Rocio – a religious ceremony that attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims from all over Spain who travel by foot, carriage, or horseback to honor and celebrate the Virgin of El Rocio. The event combines religion and festivity, as the streets of El Rocio light up and people celebrate until the early hours, singing, playing guitar, and dancing flamenco. While the Romería is the celebration that attracts most people, other events and festivities are held during weekends throughout the year, especially during the warmer months.

There is an immense sense of pride in the way jinetes (horsemen) prepare, pamper, and braid their stunning Andalusian horses before wandering the town’s streets. The gentle nature of this breed makes them treasured companions, and they remain patient while their riders socialise and gather around bars, hopping from one house terrace to the next.

Flamenco and fashion

Flamenco and fashion play an important role in the cultural identity of this region, and with every year comes the opportunity to display new trends and accessories. Women dazzle in long, colorful flamenco dresses known as traje de flamenca, while men wear a traditional herdsmen uniform, the traje corto, which consists of a closely fitted jacket and trousers, long leather chaps, boots, and a broad-brimmed hat.

Traditionally, men hold the reins while women in their flamenco dresses sit sideways behind the saddle on a sheepskin pad with handles for them hold on to. It has not been until recently that more women have started taking up the reins. Known as amazonas, female riders can now also wear the traje corto, with a jacket and a long, uniform skirt and leather boots. Children take part in the festivities too, as many of them are in the saddle before they even learn to walk.

El Rocio on horseback

The best way to experience El Rocio is to visit the town like a local, which is, of course, on horseback! Doñana Horse

Adventure is a riding center located a few kilometers out of town which offers tailored trail rides for experienced riders and the adventurous. The ride takes you through the challenging tracks of the Doñana National Park, a protected area and a UNESCO World Heritage site, which borders the town and has a unique ecosystem with a diversity of wildlife.

On your way to El Rocio, the Doñana Horse Adventure’s highly trained horses take you on long canters, jump over logs, and cross shallow rivers. A welldeserved thirst-quenching drink will be waiting for you at one of the town’s bars!

For more traditional Spanish riding, Doñana Dressage, an equestrian center located at the entrance of the village, caters to riders of all levels and offers guided visits to the National Park and El Rocio. Dressage classes and Spanish Working Equitation, known as Doma Vaquera, are also available at the stables – a great way to learn more about the local equestrian culture. For those looking for a multi-day stay, accommodation and catering can be arranged.

The region and surrounds

For Andalusian horse lovers, the region is home to a number of traditional ferias (fairs) that still honour some of the oldest equine traditions in the world – the most famous being the annual Feria del Caballo, or Jerez Horse Fair, which dates back to the Middle Ages. Open to the public, this week-long event held in May promotes the majestic P.R.E breed Pura Raza Española, while hosting a variety of horse-related programs, including riding competitions, polo, carriage driving, classical dressage, and traditional Working Equitation competitions.

For classical dressage lovers, a main attraction is the Royal School of Equestrian Art in Jerez de la Frontera, one of the most prestigious riding academies in the world. Tickets can be booked in advance to visit the school and watch its world-renowned show How the Andalusian Horses Dance. Traveling to Andalusia? Be sure to visit the Royal School of Equestrian Art in Jerez, and in El Rocio, book a ride with Doñana Horse Adventure. Visit P.R.E International Horse Fair for tickets to this event, held in November each year.

FACING PAGE: Colorful flamenco dresses make a dazzling fashion statement. TOP: El Rocio’s Romería is the celebration that attracts most people. BOTTOM: The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art at Jerez de la Frontera (Image by Harvey Barrison). Images by Mathilde Gregoire