Our Coast Magazine 2020 • Number 9

Now Showing in 3D at

Columbia River Maritime Museum

Open Daily 9:30 to 5:00 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria, Oregon www.crmm.org • (503) 325-2323

OUR COAST

Jonathan Williams Editor Our Coast Magazine

THE NEXUS OF HISTORY AND TOMORROW can still remember traipsing through the sandy, muddy trail toward the wooden steps that led to the beach at Oswald West State Park. It was morning and the air was brisk. Mist hung all around with ocean spray nudging at your cheeks. I was 5 or 6 years old. My dad led my brother and me on our journey in total awe of the natural enchantments of the forest and sea. We later ate at the nearby Sea Breeze restaurant. Both Oswald West and the restaurant are still there today, and the spirit of the Oregon Coast holds its same vitality.

Our coast is the nexus of where Oregon’s history and future meet. The region is brimming with artisans, doers and mavericks devoted to their craft. There are dozens of new shops, restaurants and cultural events opening up and down the north Oregon and southwest Washington coasts from Manzanita to Ocean Park. But this is no secret to locals and frequent visitors. While both groups continue to discover our coast, the North Coast’s spirit — like the changing weather — tends toward optimism, that there are always brighter days and new horizons to explore tomorrow.

That is much of why locals love calling our coast home. And visitors, too, see its appeal.

The small town of Manzanita is an example of the changes. There are new restaurants to try.

Visit there on a summer weekend and you’ll see Laneda Avenue lined with visitors and locals alike, basking in the sun, wine tasting and enjoying bookstores, art galleries and specialty shops. Visit the town in the fall or winter and delight in the cozy village ethos.

Summer in Astoria feels cinematic. This is no surprise to those who’ve seen the dozens of films made here. Locals for years have described the town as a “little San Francisco,” and with its burgeoning arts and food and drink scenes downtown, it has become the place to experience culture.

Across the Columbia River in Washington state along the Long Beach Peninsula, there is an abundance of places to stay and play. The towns of Ilwaco, Seaview, Long Beach, Nahcotta and Ocean Park each hold distinct histories.

In Warrenton, Gearhart and Seaside, too, there are dozens of places to eat, with state parks and leisure activities all around. The outdoors also present a truly endless journey for offthe-beaten-path and more well-known trails to explore during each season.

Our pages reflect the coast’s unique creators and makers — like Jacob Deatherage, who makes handmade journals from vintage books, and chef Paul Klitsie who owns MyCovio’s

restaurant, featuring gourmet food in an intimate setting in Ocean Park and Marcene Miller, owner of the new At the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub, who during the building’s renovation, sanded the floors to make her dream come true.

Our coast is brimming with artisans, doers and mavericks devoted to their craft.

Miller connects the thread of stories we tell in Our Coast of those that honor our history. The women’s suffrage movement, which celebrates 100 years this year, was popular on the coast, as is the long history of cranberry farming on the Long Beach Peninsula and fishing on the Columbia River.

Like Lewis and Clark, John Jacob Astor, Capt. Robert Gray and the Native Americans who came before them, the coast awaits for all those who wish to discover its wonders. I still find the same buzzing energy as I did as a child at Oswald West State Park. We hope you find our coast’s history as fascinating — and inspiring — as we do.

PUBLISHER Kari Borgen EDITOR Jonathan Williams CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Alyssa Evans PHOTOGRAPHER Hailey Hoffman DESIGN DIRECTOR/LAYOUT John D. Bruijn CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicole Bales David Campiche Alyssa Evans Hailey Hoffman Ryan Hume Lucy Kleiner Katherine Lacaze Emily Lindblom Marianne Monson Malia Riggs Edward Stratton Patrick Webb Jonathan Williams Matt Winters

our coast Number 9 • 2020 • DiscoverOurCoast.com

FEATURE STORIES

24

A Rider’s Paradise Horseback experiences on our coast

By Hailey Hoffman

ADVERTISING SALES Lisa Cadonau Heather Jenson Kim McCaw Andrew Renwick

50

A Spirited Scene Whiskey bars on the North Coast

By Ryan Hume

WRITE TO US P.O. Box 210 Astoria, OR 97103

74

Ripe History A mainstay on the Long Beach Peninsula

By Alyssa Evans

FIND BACK ISSUES Read up on back issues of Our Coast magazine at discoverourcoast.com Our Coast is published annually

by The Astorian and Chinook Observer.

Shoreside Pleasures Explore miles of prized beaches

Dog Days Exploring our coast with Fido

A Rider’s Paradise Horseback experiences on our coast

Dime Days Inexpensive family fun

36 38 44 50 60

Our Picks The best places to eat and drink

A Godfather’s State of Mind Pizzerias provide a bounty of pies

Scooped A coastal ice cream tour

A Spirited Scene Whiskey bars on the North Coast

Picnic like a Pro Best spots to eat outside

64 66 74 80 84

Our Picks Get to know the history of the area

Treasures of the Sea Columbia River Maritime Museum

Ripe History A mainstay on the Long Beach Peninsula

Strong Women The fight for Oregon’s Women Suffrage

Quietly Passionate Finnish life on the Columbia River

88 90 96 98 104 108

Our Picks The places and lifestyle on our coast

Northwest Bounty Farmers markets on the North Coast

Tsunami Signs How to read the emergency placards

Dress like a Local Looking your best all year-long

At the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub A calm place to recharge in Long Beach

My Coast Hear why locals call our coast home

COASTAL LIFE

Copyright © 2020 Our Coast.

All rights reserved.

EO Media Group

Our favorite coastal experiences

LIVE & STAY

EMAIL TO US editor@discoverourcoast.com

The Daily Astorian: 800-781-3211 Chinook Observer: 800-643-3703 DailyAstorian.com • ChinookObserver.com

Our Picks

HISTORY & HERITAGE

FOLLOW US facebook.com/ourcoast twitter.com/ourcoast instagram.com/ourcoast

VISIT US ONLINE DiscoverOurCoast.com offers all the content of Our Coast Magazine and more. Discover all the wonderful attractions, lively entertainment, and local quirks of the Columbia-Pacific region.

10 12 20 24 30

EAT & DRINK

ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Sarah Silver

GET CONNECTED Interact with us and the community at DiscoverOurCoast.com

DO & SEE

104

At the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub A calm place to recharge in Long Beach

By Malia Riggs

INTRO PHOTO Clammers roam the beach at Fort Stevens State Park looking for signs of a buried clams.

+ REGIONAL MAPS

COVER PHOTO Ragnar Gray, almost 2, runs around the Manzanita beach just before sunset.

Astoria/Warrenton Map..................................................................126 Long Beach Peninsula Map........................................................127 Seaside/Gearhart Map.....................................................................128 Cannon Beach/No. Tillamook County Map..............129

110 116 118 121 124

Our Coast from the Sky Drone photography of the North Coast

Critters on the North Coast Wildlife up close

Fishing Industry The people and the culture

Hikes on the Coastal Edge Angora and Onion peaks

Coastal Clam Bake Fresh razor clams cooked at Sunset Beach

OUR COAST MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTORS

JONATHAN WILLIAMS

Jonathan is the associate editor of The Astorian. He is a native of Astoria. He has edited and contributed to Coast Weekend as well as The Post & Courier in Charleston, South Carolina, Symphony Magazine, The Post-Standard in Syracuse, New York, and Oregon Public Broadcasting.

PATRICK WEBB

Patrick began his journalism career as a reporter in his native England and emigrated to the Northwest four days before Mount St. Helens erupted. His career as an editor took him to six U.S. newspapers, most recently The Astorian, where he was managing editor for 13 years. Now retired, he occasionally contributes to Coast Weekend and the Chinook Observer.

EMILY LINDBLOM

Emily is passionate about telling the stories of people and places in the Pacific Northwest and loves investigating environmental issues and highlighting the wonders of the region’s forests and coastline. She has a background in community reporting and a master’s degree in multimedia journalism and enjoys hiking and surfing in her free time.

KATHERINE LACAZE

Katherine, a freelancer of several years, lives and writes in Seaside.

She enjoys exploring the many topics of the coast from arts and culture to environmental conservation and tourism.

MARIANNE MONSON Marianne writes on topics related to women’s history from a 100-yearold house in Astoria, Oregon. Her newest historical novel, “Her Quiet Revolution: A Novel of Martha Hughes Cannon, Frontier Doctor and First Female State Senator,” was published in February.

NICOLE BALES

Nicole is the cops, courts and county government reporter at The Astorian. She has lived in Astoria for the past three years and in her free time enjoys exploring hiking trails and beaches and eating at the many great restaurants on the coast.

6

Our Coast Magazine 2020

ALYSSA EVANS

Alyssa is editor of Coast Weekend and The Astorian’s Weekend Break section. Before that, she was a reporter for the Chinook Observer, where she covered city government and education. You can usually find her hiking a local trail, getting a veggie burger downtown or hosting a late-night radio show.

DAVID CAMPICHE

RYAN HUME

David was born in the elevator of Cook County Hospital in 1948. Poet, potter and innkeeper, his interest in clay and food and the written word have propelled him into the arts like a camel pursuing water. David has written for The Astorian for nearly 20 years, still throws pottery several times a week and loves to cook. He is just finishing up his first novel. He and his wife, Laurie Anderson, ran the historic Shelburne Inn for 40 years and still own a lovely B and B called China Beach Retreat in Ilwaco, Washington. He is a self-professed progressive.

Ryan teaches writing at Clatsop Community College and is the faculty advisor of Rain Magazine. He has contributed to Coast Weekend, Tin House, Juked, Portland Review and other publications. He lives in Astoria with his wife and daughter.

MALIA RIGGS

Malia is a McMinnville, Oregon, based journalist and photographer. She is a graduate of Linfield College and she enjoys writing about the outdoors, sports, food and drink and Pacific Northwest life.

HAILEY HOFFMAN

Hailey is the staff photographer at The Astorian. When she’s not working, she’s probably taking photos of sunsets, the beaches or the mountains.

EDWARD STRATTON

JOHN BRUIJN

Edward, a reporter for The Astorian since 2011, is a graduate of the University of Oregon and spends much of his time exploring the outdoors.

John is the Production Director at The Astorian and has been with EO Media Group for 20 years. He has designed nine issues of Our Coast Magazine and does layout and design on several EOMG special sections annually.

LUCY KLEINER

Lucy is the former editor of Coast Weekend and was a University of Oregon Snowden intern at The Astorian in summer 2019. She is now working at an environmental nonprofit in Costa Rica.

MATT WINTERS

Matt has been editor of the Chinook Observer in Long Beach, Washington, since 1991 and is a frequent contributor to The Astorian. His family homesteaded in the western Washington Territory wilderness in 1883, a background that informs his writing about Northwest history, wildlife, economics and social issues. He and his wife live on Cape Disappointment, where he rejoices in daily walks with his indomitable wheaten terrier, Duncan.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

7

8

Our Coast Magazine 2020

FIVE STAR HENNA Make a Centuries Old Tradition One of Yours When you Visit Sea side.

Antiques, ColleCtibles, books & Furniture

Long Beach Peninsula

TRADING POST 22604 Pacific Hwy. Ocean Park, WA 98640

John 3:16

360-665-3611 • WE BUY ESTATES

C A L L T O P L A N A PA R T Y O R C O M E S O L O 600 BROADWAY • DOWNTOWN SEASIDE • 541-220-8285

Open 7 Days a Week 10am-5pm • Brenda Hill

YOUR #1 PREMIER CANNABIS RETAILER

LARGEST SELECTION FRIENDLY & KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF ELITE PRODUCTS For Washington Residents

Ilwaco (8am - 10pm) 360.261.7200 133 Howerton Ave

YOUR #1Cathlamet PREMIER CANNABIS kelso RETAILER

Longview (8am - 12am) 360.703.3229 971 14th Ave

(8am - 12am) 360.636.0420 820A West Side Hwy

(8am - 10pm) 360.849.4504 327 WA-4

LARGEST SELECTION FRIENDLY & KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF ELITE PRODUCTS

WARNING: This product has intoxicating effects and may be habit forming. There may be health risks associated with the consumption of this product.

For use only by adults 21 and over. Keep our of reach of children. Marijuana can impair concentration, coordination, and judgment. Do no operate a vehicle or machinery under the influence of this drug.

–– For Washington Residents ––

US Hwy 26 • Elsie • 503-755-1818

Ilwaco (8am - 10pm) 360-261-7200 133 Howerton Ave

Cathlamet (8am - 10pm) 360-849-4504 327 WA-4

Kelso (8am - 12am) 360-636-0420 820A West Side Hwy

Longview (8am - 12am) 360-703-3229 971 14th Ave

WARNING: This product has intoxicating effects and may be habit forming. There may be health risks associated with the consumption of this product. For use only by adults 21 and over. Keep out of reach of children. Marijuana can impair concentration, coordination, and judgement. Do not operate a vehicle or machinery under the influence of this drug.

Locals Favorite stop on the way to & from Portland!

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Cam

p18re

staur a

nt.co

m

DiscoverOurCoast.com

9

DO & SEE

OUR PICKS

Astoria Arts and Movement Center

Ex Libris Anonymous

Astoria, Oregon

Astoria, Oregon

By Nicole Bales

By Jonathan Williams

The Astoria Arts and Movement Center offers people the opportunity to explore the world of dance and movement.

The movement center, founded by Jessamyn West, is housed in the Astoria Odd Fellows Building in downtown Astoria. The space features a ballroom-like setting with tall ceilings and large pane glass windows that let in natural light and a calming breeze. West and two other local women, Andrea Mazzarella and Nancy Mazzarella-Tisch, purchased the building in 2018. Over the years they have dedicated the facility to expanding access to dance and movement on the North Coast.

The Astoria Arts and Movement Center is a welcoming space where people can participate in types of dance not readily available on the coast and try something new.

Classes include Argentine tango, AfroCaribe, modern, zumba, tap, belly dance, ballroom and yoga. And the instructors are encouraging of newcomers who may be intimidated or hesitant.

Many of the classes offer people the opportunity to learn the basics and then build up. Some classes even offer participants the opportunity to learn choreography and perform at events in front of an audience.

The regular classes, workshops, events and performances are open to anyone regardless of their experience, age or level of interest.

The studio offers a warm, inclusive and positive environment for anyone interested in exploring a new type of movement.

When Jacob Deatherage was living in Seattle in 1999 and working as a book dealer, the businessman Paul Allen gave him $5,000 to leave the apartment he was living in after Allen bought the building.

This became the genesis of Deatherage’s now nearly 20-year-old business, Ex Libris Anonymous, where he makes custom-made journals from recycled vintage books.

The shop, located at 1191 Marine Drive, sits in the former space of Thompson’s Instrument Repair and has been open since spring 2019.

With colorful, hardcover books from diverse topics such as “Life in Europe: Italy” to “Guide to Modern English,” and beloved Dr. Seuss books, customers can select the book they want made into a journal.

Deatherage finds many of the books at garage sales he goes to. Deatherage saves the cover and a few pages from the book before adding in white paper and a plastic coil to hold the journal together. The journals cost $14 and can also be ordered online at www.bookjournals.com.

The space features a giant bookshelf visible from the street that reaches from floor to ceiling. Deatherage’s corgi, Crumpton, greets visitors from his perch on the couch when they come in.

Deatherage, an admitted book enthusiast, said he likes the process of making the journals and talking with customers.

“I like it when it clicks with somebody and they interact with the collection. It’s really fun to see people find something that gives them a little bit of joy, you know? What I like are people. I really like to hear people’s stories and find out what they’re about. So I think of the books as a way sort of getting some insight and that personal kind of relationship with people even briefly.”

10

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain Loop Hike

North Coast Land Conservancy

Manzanita, Oregon

Seaside, Oregon

By Nicole Bales

By Alyssa Evans

On a beautiful day, Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain Loop Hike will give you some of the best views of Manzanita.

The hike begins at Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park, but if you want to cut a couple of miles off, you can start at the North Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain Trailhead off of U.S. Highway 101. The whole loop is about 8 miles, so it’s best to start early.

Follow the Oregon Coast Trail up Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain and down to Manzanita. The hike will guide you through old-growth forests around Necarney Creek past Devils Cauldron through meadows up to the boulders that rest on the peak of the mountain.

On the way up, there are a lot of exposed roots and a few trees to step over. The hike is challenging and not ideal when wet and muddy because it makes the exposed roots throughout the hike slippery. The peak offers a panoramic view of Manzanita and the boulder offers a great spot to sit, rest and enjoy a picnic. When you are ready to head down, head toward the South Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain Trailhead, which will guide you back.

Visit the Oregon Coast and you’ve visited the North Coast Land Conservancy.

From Astoria to Tillamook, the conservancy manages thousands of acres of land along the coast. The organization’s goal is simple: maintain and improve Oregon’s coastal lands.

The conservancy’s founding members began working to create the organization in 1985. Just a year later, the group officially formed the conservancy. Within a handful of years, the group was bringing conservation proposals to state and federal agencies.

In 1991, the conservancy completed its first land swap, where it traded land near Saddle Mountain. In the same year, the conservancy purchased a saltmarsh in Seaside, in turn helping create the Wahanna Ball Fields.

Since the conservancy’s efforts in 1991, the organization has grown to manage more than 50 properties in Oregon.

As the conservancy has grown as an organization, its need for volunteers has increased at the same time. Volunteers help the conservancy with tasks like site monitoring, educating community members and tracking grants.

Volunteers also play a role in single-day projects, which are open to visitors and locals to partake in.

Throughout the year, the conservancy hosts what the organization calls stewardship days. On these days, volunteers work with staff at the conservancy’s properties to manage and improve the land’s habitats.

In 2020, some of the conservancy’s stewardship day projects will include creating habitat heaps, replanting a riverbank and cleaning up Nehalem Bay. Information on volunteering with the conservancy is available at nclctrust.org/volunteer/

DiscoverOurCoast.com

11

12

Our Coast Magazine 2020

DO & SEE

Shoreside P L E A S U R E S EXPLORE MILES OF PRIZED BEACHES THAT ARE OFF-THE-BEATEN PATH Words: David Campiche • Images: Hailey Hoffman

Moods, colors and sunset hues: cranberry, amber and cerulean — dusk on the Columbia-Pacific beaches, the most sublime of experiences — rock the soul.

And the softness of dawn, a bleed of quicksilver, pewter and periwinkle gray. And beaches, miles and miles of sandy beaches.

Here, at the mouth of the Columbia River, big water spawns like migrating salmon, rolling both north and south as the wide river floods into the Pacific Ocean, spilling, MY FAVORITE BEACH eroding and building again.

IS A DESERTED BEACH. Here is an endless display of might and aqueous THEY REMAIN RARE IN grace, and eons of natural evolution: boulders, long OUR 21ST CENTURY. ago broken and pummeled and finally reduced to shiny, sandy grains. And then, all this scattered by the firm westerly winds and ebbing tides.

My favorite beach is a deserted beach. They remain rare in our 21st century world amid boardwalks, Staten Island-like beaches and the French Riviera’s fashion show known as the Cote d’Azur. Each location is overwhelmed by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year.

Waves crash into the South Jetty at Fort Stevens State Park.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

13

DO & SEE Here, on the northern edge of the West Coast, the Long Beach Peninsula is 28 miles long and little more than a modified sand dune with several villages built on top like a flowery garnish.

The beaches in Clatsop County extend and radiate much the same way. Sunset Beach and Ecola State Park remain favorites to a great degree. The lovely beaches nestled on the ocean side of the South Jetty at Fort Stevens State Park are equally alluring, and significantly less traveled. Effluents from the Columbia River shaped these sandy marvels, but two jetties define the river mouth. Both of the huge stone structures are long, rugged and majestic.

THE BEACHES IN CLATSOP COUNTY EXTEND AND RADIATE MUCH THE SAME WAY. SUNSET BEACH AND ECOLA STATE PARK REMAIN FAVORITES TO A GREAT DEGREE. The sands at Long Beach are well traveled and known for superb clam digging, beachcombing and the annual Washington State International Kite Festival. So is the popularity of the Clatsop beaches, particularly in Seaside and Cannon Beach. But buried behind the long rock jetties on opposite sides of the river mouth is an ever-present opportunity to explore the sandy shores in relative solitary peace.

At Cape Disappointment State Park just out of Ilwaco, Washington, are two jewels.

One is a small beach filled with driftwood that snuggles inauspiciously under one of the most scenic lighthouses in the country. That is Cape Disappointment, and the beach is called Waikiki Beach, a name allocation harkening back to the days of the sailing ships, many of which floundered on the shallow bars at the mouth of the river. Two Hawaiians drowned here, and their bodies were ordained in both name and legend into this ancient territory.

14

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Perfectly Created

Crafting fine jewelry since 1998.

Ecola State Park features hilly cliffs and quiet coves, like Indian Beach.

1150 Commercial St w Astoria w 503.325.8029 www.hollymchone.com

DiscoverOurCoast.com

15

DO & SEE

Ecola Creek carves its way through Cannon Beach and into the Pacific.

Winter waves can pound the igneous cliffs. Storms etch and sting Benson Beach at the end of North Jetty Road. The ocean here is notorious for wild, unpredictable currents and waves that blast the malleable winter shores. The beach is long and hedged in by the southern jetty and the tall volcanic cliffs that once lifted North Head high above the ocean; a photographer’s dream. North Head Lighthouse sits above all this splendor, a beacon to the sea-going ships and an inspiration to visitors. From the overlook, whales swim by. Pelicans glide just above the white-hatted combers, hugging the wavetops as they fly effortlessly on brisk summer winds that curl out of the southwest. Seabirds litter the soft gray sands below, or weave back and forth through the surf line, as agile as the tempestuous clouds that scud the skies with furtive movements.

At the north end of the beach, in a location known today as Dead Man’s Hollow, one can picnic, nap or meditate to the sound of tumbling ocean combers. We all play seasonal favorites: winter gray; spring greening up; summertime, a love affair with bluebird days and gentle flooding tides; and a favorite, the sublime Indian summers that rally during early fall with hot clear days and cerulean skies.

Sea lions surf while offering effrontery. A pair of eagles hovers over the beach, hungry for prey. And all that ocean music remains hard to define, but certainly enriches the senses, a water symphony imploring us to unravel the secrets of following seas and pristine beaches.

Bring a good camera and a picnic lunch. Choose your beverage carefully. The Columbia-Pacific region claims bragging rights on more than a handful of microbreweries and their reputations are exceptional. All that is required here is a simple plan of engagement: an afternoon by the ocean.

16

Our Coast Magazine 2020

STORMS ETCH AND STING BENSON BEACH AT THE END OF NORTH JETTY ROAD. THE OCEAN HERE IS NOTORIOUS FOR WILD, UNPREDICTABLE CURRENTS AND 30-FOOT WAVES THAT BLAST THE MALLEABLE WINTER SHORES.

John Harrow of Bend flies a quad kite on Benson Beach.

Many large driftwood logs, carried from the ocean, are deposited in Dead Man’s Hollow.

The sun sets on a quiet evening at Sunset Beach.

The water recedes, leaving a glassy reflection of the blue sky at the Cove in Seaside.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

17

THE ONLY THING THAT HAS CHANGED IS OUR NAME! IS NOW KNOWN AS-

Formerly at 1055 Marine Drive Astoria Janitor & Paper Supply

Walter E Nelson Co.

Janitorial & Paper Supplies

WALTER E. NELSON CO. 2240 Commercial St., Astoria The same great Service, Paint and Janitorial Supplies we have always offered our customers!

Millpond Area

503-325-6362 • 800-344-1943 • MON-FRI 8-5pm

SEASONAL SEAFOODS Located at 306 Dike Road on the Palix River in Bay Center

• • • •

Wholesale and Retail Sales OPEN MON-FRI 8:30 - 4

Fresh Willapa Bay Oysters Farm-raised Steamer Clams Pickled Salmon & More Custom Orders Welcomed

360-875-5519 Toll-free 888-905-9079

www.lighthouseproperty.com

Visit our online store www.baycenterfarms.com

seafood@willapabay.org

INVEST IN YOUR DREAMS

Need health care now?

Seaside walk-in clinic Open daily, 7 a.m. – 7 p.m.

725 S. Wahanna Road, Suite 230 at Providence Seaside Hospital

We ship fresh seafood anytime

PROVIDENCE.ORG/NORTHCOAST

Hike. Cycle. Explore.

With over 185,000 sustainably managed acres, our forestlands provide clean drinking water for 15 rural communities.

Our properties are open year round for permitted, non-motorized, public access, so come explore our forests today.

Free permits available at: permits.greenwoodresources.com 18

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Minutes from Downtown & Astoria Attractions

42 Rooms • 14 Deluxe Kitchens • Cable with HBO Columbia River View • Free Wireless Internet

Fridge, Microwave & Coffee in Every Room

(503) 325-2921 • 59 W Marine Dr., Astoria

Toll-free Reservations (866) 322-8047 www.rivershoremotel.com

vvvvvvvvvvvv

– Forsythe a

Bowpicker Fish & Chips

home & garden ARTS

Fine Ar t Ceramics & Jewelr y Garden & Outdoor Ornament Kitchen Linens Candles 1124 commercial st. astoria 503.325.2189

Homespun Quilts & Yarn

COME SEE WHAT WE HAVE FOR YOU Top Quality Fabrics & Yarns Books, Patterns & Notions Row by Row, Ravelry

-Best In Town-

Walk up window Beer Battered Fish

monday-friday 11-5:30 sunday 12-4:30

1634 Duane St • Astoria

108 10th St. – Astoria, OR (503) 325-3300

Across from the Maritime Museum

Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm

503-791-2942

www.homespunquilts.com

vvv

PLAY ON!

SIX DANCE LESSONS IN SIX WEEKS

March 13 - April 18

May 8 - 30

COMEDY

COMEDY

MONTY PYTHON’S

SPAMALOT

GUILTY CONSCIENCE

June 19 - Sept. 5

July 2 - Sept. 6

MUSICAL / COMEDY

THRILLER

SLEUTH

Local. Fresh. Sustainable.

Riverfront. Live Music. 90% GF.

RODGERS + HAMMERSTEIN’S

CINDERELLA

Sept. 25 - Oct. 24

Nov. 15 - Dec. 22

COMEDY

MUSICAL

vvv

503.325.6777 • Open Daily Lunch, Dinner, Sunday Brunch BridgewaterBistro.com 20 Basin Street, Astoria OR

Come play with us in Cannon Beach

2020 SEASON COASTER THEATRE P L A Y H O U S E 108 N Hemlock Street Cannon Beach OR 503-436-1242 | coastertheatre.com DiscoverOurCoast.com

19

DO & SEE

DOG DAYS

20

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Words & Images: Malia Riggs

EXPLORING OUR COAST WITH FIDO

It is said that dogs are man’s best friend. They’re always ready to go and always happy for an adventure with their favorite humans. Whether on the Astoria Riverwalk or walking through Fort Clatsop, Fort Stevens State Park, Cullaby Lake or on the beach, the best hiking companion has four legs and never disappoints.

With so many new smells to explore, Fort Clatsop is the perfect destination to bring your favorite furry friend.

While dogs must be on a leash, the park is extremely dog-friendly, providing waste bags and having easy hiking trails that are perfect for seasoned or beginning hikers and dogs of any size.

While the rain, wind and fog frequently accompany winters on the coast, any Oregonian or native Pacific Northwesterner knows that a good pair of waterproof boots, jacket and a warm pair of pants are a necessity when doing anything outside.

With beautiful bridges looking over the Lewis and Clark River on the historic Netul Landing trail it’s hard to ignore the crisp smell of the wooded surroundings or the fresh winter rainfall. Take in notes of thick mud as ducks splash in the distance and enjoy the light mist that seems to never leave the coastal forests.

A good set of tennis shoes or hiking shoes are recommended, and a fresh and warm towel is also recommended for our four legged friend at the end of the journey as well.

With ears perked listening to all the scurrying and splashing critters, wet noses taking in all the forest smells and paws wet from exploring the forest floor, Fort Clatsop really is a trail for everyone.

Fort Stevens also offers great adventures for dogs. With endless miles of beaches and numerous trails to explore in Trestle Bay or the South Jetty, Fort Stevens State Park is also a gold mine of smells and adventures for our doggo friends.

The smell of the salty air and sea breeze on adventurous faces, and the feel of sand between the paws of exploring dogs, Fort Stevens offers it all for every adventure seeker out there, and is perfect for a sandy game of fetch.

But sometimes a hike or a trip to the beach just isn’t in the cards of busy daily schedules. Dog parks are always a great way to give dogs a fun mini adventure for the day.

The Gearhart Indoor Dog Park offers a unique place to play and stay dry. The Warrenton Dog Park at Carruthers Memorial Park is fenced and has separate areas for small and large dogs where they are free to run and play with friends their own size.

But regardless of if it is a trail, the beach or a park, what matters is making memories with the people and animals that mean the most.

Right: Kip on a walk at the Netul Landing trail. Left from top: Kip walks on the Netul Landing trail. The bridge on the Netul Landing trail at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. The leafy Netul Landing trail at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park is the perfect place to explore with your dog.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

21

303 Sid Synder Drive, Long Beach, WA 360-642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com A great destination for fun for all! Experience the history and art of kites through video and interactive elements.

Make your own kite and fly it here on the world’s longest beach!

Visit today!

Featuring:

• Bold heroes and story characters on kites from Japan • Delicately painted Chinese silk kites • Kites that saved lives in WWII • See new ongoing upgrades and changes to exhibits featuring birds, birds, birds!

Visit Our Museum Store for:

Admission Includes Kite Making!

CHECK FOR SEASONAL HOURS

• Kites for flying on the Beach • Books about kite making, flying & history • Postcards, T-shirts, jewelry & posters

Appointments Gladly Accepted!

Life Happens...

ere!

H e ’r e W y h W ’s t a h T

Our friendly and dedicated Physicians and Physician Assistants are available for all of your routine healthcare needs, not just for emergency situations!

Keith Klatt, MD

If you’re suffering from a headache, toothache, earache, backache, any illness or injury, are in need of a refill of your prescription medications, or even a sports physical or DOT physical, our dedicated staff is here to assist you!

WE ARE OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Monday-Friday 7aM-7pM • Saturday-Sunday 9aM-7pM

Mark Tabor, PA-C

We are located in the Park Medical Building East on Exchange Street.

We accept most insurances, offer a cash discount and also accept the Oregon Health Plan and Medicare.

Sally Baker, PA-C

We observe the following holidays & are closed on July 4th, Thanksgiving, Christmas & New Year’s Day.

2120 Exchange Street, Suite 111 Astoria, Oregon 22

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Express Healthcare for Busy Lifestyles www.urgentcarenwastoria.com

Kenyon Solecki, PA-C

503-325-0333

OceanSW Washington’s Park Area Beach & Bay

Bay Avenue Gallery

1406 Bay Ave. Ocean Park

http://bayavenuegallery.com (360) 665-5200

Visit our area for a vacation close to nature, wrapped in beautiful scenery, activities that the entire family will never forget, events nearly every weekend of the year, historic landmarks, walking trails and seafood that can't get any fresher. Discover the 5 state parks, pristine bay, 2 lighthouses, diverse historic communities, beaches, art communities, food, wildlife, deep sea, lake and river fishing, 2 golf courses, horseback riding, go cart track, arcade, shopping and festivals, that make the region, where the Columbia River meets the Pacific, famous. Let Us Treat your family to SW Washington's Friendly Ocean Park Area Hospitality!!!!

Okie’s Thriftway Market 1820 Bay Ave. Ocean Park www.okiesthriftway.com (360)665-5222

Surfside Golf Course 31508 J Pl Ocean Park

***2020 Local Events***

*PAA Annual Spring Art Show - Apr 3-5 *World’s Longest Garage Sale - May 22 - 25 *Annual NW Garlic Festival - June 20 & 21 *Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade - July 4 *Art in the Park - July 4 *Oysterville Artisan Faire - July 3 - 5 *Music in the Gardens - July 11

*Summer Studio Tour - July 17 - 19 *Jazz & Oysters - August 15 *Rod Run to End of the World - Sep 11-13 *Peninsula R&B Festival - Sep 18 - 19 *PAA Annual Fall Art Show - October 2-4 *Water Music Festival - October 9 - 11 *PAA Studio Art Tour - November 29-30

*Christmas Tree Lighting-Santa’s Workshop - December 4

Jack’s Country Store surfsidegolfcourse.com (360)665-4148

Bank of the Pacific

Shakti Cove Cottages

26006 Vernon Ave. Ocean Park

25301 Park Ave Ocean Park

jackscountrystore.com

shakticove.com

Mermaid Inn & RV Park

Ocean Beach Hospital & Medical Clinics

(360)665-4000

(360)665-4989

Ocean Park

bankofthepacific.com (360) 665-5255

Ocean Park RV Resort 25904 R St Ocean Park

1910 Pacific Ave N Long Beach

mermaidinnatlongbeachwa.com (360)642-2600

174 1st Ave. N. Ilwaco

(360)642-3181 www.oceanbeachhospital.com 24/7 Physician Staffed E.R.

Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce opresort.com (360)665-4585

(360)665-4448 Ocean Park Klipsan

1715 Bay Avenue P.O. Box 403 Ocean Park, WA. 98640

opwa.com Surfside Nahcotta

opchamber@opwa.com Oysterville

DO & SEE

Paradise A RIDER’S

Words & Images: Hailey Hoffman

FROM NEHALEM TO LONG BEACH, OUR COAST OFFERS DOZENS OF FORESTED, SANDY AREAS FOR EXPERIENCED AND FIRST-TIME HORSEBACK RIDERS

H

orses have been a part of Northwest history through pulling covered wagons along the Oregon Trail to hauling logs through luscious forests. Today, their uses tend to be in recreation or tourism.

On the North Coast of Oregon there are countless opportunities to spend time on horseback, no matter your experience or skill level.

Horseback riders head north on Long Beach with West Coast Horse Rides.

DO & SEE

Trail riders wind through the grassy dunes after a trip to the beach.

BACKCOUNTRY RIDES

For more experienced riders with horses of their own, there are ample opportunities for exploration along the North Coast in the forests and beaches.

The Northrup Creek Horse Camp off of Oregon Highway 202 is the perfect way to spend a weekend exploring the backwoods of the Clatsop State Forest. With eight reservable campsites, complete with corrals and parking for your horse trailer, the camp meets both horse and rider’s needs.

In the early 2000s, the North Coast chapter of the Oregon Equestrian Trails wanted to open a horse camp somewhere in the Clatsop State Forest. In 2005, with her husband, who works for the Oregon Department of Forestry, Diane Berry found the perfect spot just off of Northrup Creek and far back from any major roadways. By 2006, after a significant amount of fundraising, bushwhacking and building, the Northrup Creek Horse Camp opened to the public.

With miles of forested trees winding up old game trails and along railroad grades, the route takes riders and their horses through dozens of different micro ecosystems in the Clatsop State Forest.

26

Our Coast Magazine 2020

“You get a little bit of everything,” said Ashley Letora, the chapter chair of the North Coast Oregon Equestrian Trails. “You cross creeks, you go up inclines. You’re in old forests, you’re in new forests. You’re in big maples.”

The campsite also features an obstacle course that simulates obstacles a horse may encounter on the trail. With big boulders and small stumps right in the campsites, horses can get used to what they might encounter on the trail before they even head out.

The campsites close in mid-November, usually, and re-open in the springtime when the temperature warms and rain abates, making the trails safe for horses again. Campsites are reservable through Reserve America.

There are countless other areas in the Clatsop State Forest to explore via horseback.

The 24-mile-long Banks-Vernonia State Trail is frequented by local horseback riders and is open year round. The 4.6-mile loop on Step Creek Trail sits just south of U.S. Route 26 and is open from March to November when the weather is nice.

Fort Stevens State Park also offers miles of trails, starting in Parking Lot A and heading along the beach as far south as DeLaura Beach next to Camp Rilea. Along the way, riders can take their horses through the wooded trails of

the interior or down along the sandy beaches past the Peter Iredale shipwreck while heading south.

With no steep inclines and solid footing on the sand for the horses, the trails provide a leisurely ride, no matter the weather.

“You have a couple different ways you can go. You can go out Strawberry Knoll, hit the beach, or if it's a lousy day, you can do the interior trails and follow parallel to Burma or Ridge Road,” said Linda Brim, a member of Oregon Equestrian Trails.

Riders also have the opportunity to head south of Camp Rilea, crossing Sunset Beach and heading through to Seaside with ample beach to explore. Cannon Beach to Arch Cape to Nehalem Bay State Park also have horse-friendly areas for any rider’s needs.

With the growing industries of recreation and tourism across Clatsop County, there has been significant growth in the equine industry and community. Locals can get involved at local stables or with organizations, like North Coast Oregon Equestrian Trails or Backcountry Horsemen of Oregon, to help maintain trails and support the recreational activity that continues to maintain popularity for people of all ages.

Dave Thompson walks his horse Tex, a Missouri Fox Trotter, along the beach at sunset at Fort Stevens State Park.

Horseback Riding WEST COAST HORSE RIDES 308 Sid Snyder Drive Long Beach westcoasthorserides.business.site

SEA RANCH RESORT AND RV PARK

415 Fir Street Cannon Beach searanchrv.com

OREGON BEACH RIDES 9500 Sandpiper Lane Manzanita oregonbeachrides.com

NEHALEM BAY HORSE EXCURSIONS 17150 Camp 4 Road Nehalem Find them on: facebook.com

NORTHRUP CREEK HORSE CAMP

87644 Northrup Creek Road Clatskanie Find them on: reserveamerica.com

DO & SEE GUIDED TRAIL RIDES

Through swaying beach grass and over soft sand dunes, anyone can enjoy a guided horseback ride along the white stretches of Long Beach, Washington. The rides take you on a walk, trot or gallop to the edge of the Pacific, and perhaps, if you’re lucky, you’ll spot a passing whale or two.

With as many as 24 trusty steeds saddled up and ready to go, anyone from seasoned riders to rookies can hop on a horse and spend an afternoon riding with a guide from West Coast Horse Rides in Long Beach.

The ride itself begins just across the street from the World Kite Museum. Mosey one-by-one through a small wooded area before opening up to the gently rolling sand dunes.

Here, some horses love to stop for a snack and munch on the towering beach grass, despite its harshness on their stomachs. Ride on above the soft sands until you reach the expansive flat of Long Beach. Heading south, the horses spread out and prance along the shimmering water’s edge that runs for miles. After about half an hour, the horses know, like clockwork, when to turn around and head back the way they came.

West Coast Horse Rides offers a onehour ride for $30 and $5 pony rides through the wooded area just outside the corral for the younger kids. More experienced riders can enjoy a two-hour ride and adventure farther south to Beards Hollow in Cape Disappointment State Park for $60. Horse rides run year-round, weather dependent. In the summer, it’s an every day opportunity for any local or tourist; however, in the off-season, West Coast only saddles up on weekends.

West Coast Horse Rides offers trail rides out to Long Beach every day in the summer and on weekends during the off season.

Mother and daughter duo Tracy and Brandi Gardner took over the business in 2017 and, between the two of them, have years of experience with horses. After moving to Long Beach in 2005, Brandi and her sisters got involved in the horseback riding scene along the peninsula, pulling Tracy along with them.

It became a family activity and passion. Years later, they saw the opportunity to run their own

Tracy Gardner helps a visitor settle on her horse at the start of the trail ride.

28

Our Coast Magazine 2020

trail riding business and share their love of horseback riding with the community.

“I love sharing the horses with people who have never even petted a horse before,” Tracy said. Her best memories involve the happy smiles on children’s faces after they finish their first ride.

If you’re in Long Beach and are looking for another option, you can head over to Long Beach Horse Rides just across the street for a similar trail ride experience.

Sea Ranch Resort in Cannon Beach also offers daily trail rides during the summertime.

For $95, visitors can take an hour ride to Haystack Rock or to Chapman Point for equally beautiful views of the rocky coast. Two-hour rides south to Silver Point and sunset night rides are also available.

If you’re farther south in the Nehalem area, Oregon Beach Rides and Nehalem Bay Horse Excursions offer beach and trail excursions to explore the backwoods and the coast. With Oregon Beach Rides, you can spend an entire day exploring Nehalem Bay State Park or ride off into the sunset across the sand dunes for a shorter, equally magical experience. Nehalem Bay Horse Excursions offers pony rides as well as classic trail excursions.

ia R st ive o r

o lo the m p x at

Step Back Into History

ry

E

n’s Mi rEgo the C litary H o olumb i uth of rE

O Y e a r -PRE N ound MAY-SE P

10AM-6

T OCT PM 10 -APRIL AM-4PM

Military Museum & Gift Shop Memorial Rose Garden Living History Programs Self-Guided & Guided Tours Underground Batteries Popular Truck Tours Underground Mishler Tours (Tickets for both tours are sold on a first come first serve basis. Space for the Truck Tour is limited)

THE FRIENDS OF OLD FORT STEVENS A non-profit organization, supports the maintenance and preservation of the Ft. Stevens Historical Area. Much of our funding comes from proceeds from the museum store, guided tours, special events and campfire wood sales.

503-861-2000

Ft. Stevens State Park, Hammond, OR $5 State Park Day-Use Fee Museum Store Website

VisitLongBeachPeninsula.com

www.visitftstevens.com • foofs@teleport.com

Photo by Walter Dorsett

DiscoverOurCoast.com

29

DO & SEE

Words: Ryan Hume • Images: Hailey Hoffman

So you came to the coast for the calming clap of the surf and some much-needed family R&R. But, inevitably, even with the sweetest kids, something goes wrong: attention spans wane, sunburns appear, sugars crash and you are left wondering what to do next without taking out a second mortgage. Luckily, the North Coast and lower Columbia cater to the kiddos with plenty of entertainment options that won’t break the bank.

There’s more than enough to do for the whole family both indoors and out.

Try your hand at feeding the seals at the Seaside Aquarium or learn about the Graveyard of the Pacific at the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria.

Visiting Jake the Alligator Man at Marsh’s Free Museum is always a trip. Even if you don’t make it up to Long Beach for the Washington State International Kite Festival held in August, there are plenty of places to buy or rent kites and you can follow a breeze into the World Kite Museum and check out their Hall of Fame.

If spilling pins is your thing there’s also Lower Columbia Bowl in Astoria and Gearhart Bowl located in the little hamlet of its namesake just north of Seaside on U.S. Highway 101.

See? You’ve got this. Just remember: a stimulated kid is a kid that goes to bed earlier and a sleeping child is the most relaxing part of any parent’s holiday.

Follow our recommendations to these cheap retreats and save a few bucks to put toward a local bottle of wine.

30

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Dahlia Bodeutsch whips around the corner ahead of her family at the Fun Beach Speedway in Long Beach.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

31

DO & SEE LONG BEACH

SEASIDE/GEARHART

Washington State International Kite Festival 303 SW Sid Snyder Drive Long Beach kitefestival.com

Seaside Aquarium 200 N Prom, Seaside seasideaquarium.com

Marsh’s Free Museum 409 Pacific Ave., Long Beach marshsfreemuseum.com

Long Beach Funland Family Fun Center 200 Pacific Ave, Long Beach Funlandlongbeach.com Fun Beach Speedway 915 Pacific Ave. South, Long Beach funbeachspeedway.com

ASTORIA

Columbia River Maritime Museum 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria crmm.org Lower Columbia Bowl 826 Marine Drive, Astoria lcbowl.com Astoria Column 1 Coxcomb Drive, Astoria Astoriacolumn.org Tapiola Park 900 W Marine Drive, Astoria Astoriaparks.com Buoy Beer 1 8th St., Astoria Buoybeer.com

Situated right downtown, the Funland Family Fun Center offers over 9,000 square feet of gaming, including a midway complete with carnival-style games and laser tag. Grab a futuristic gun and chest plate at $9.95 for two rounds or $14.95 for four rounds. High score winners receive a free round.

Rev your engines on a go-kart at the Fun Beach Speedway. Now under new management, the track has been completely revived. Single karts start at $10 and doubles at $15. Kids must be 12 to drive alone and drivers of a double need to be over 17 with a valid driver’s license to chauffeur anyone 3 or younger. While the speedway is open year round, hours do depend on weather.

32

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Gearhart Bowl 3518 Highway 101 N, Gearhart gearhartbowl.com

Funland Arcade 201 Broadway St., Seaside funlandseaside.com Seaside Bumper Cars 110 Broadway St., Seaside seasidechamber.com/list/member/ interstate-amusement-co-inc-112 Captain Kid 2735 S Roosevelt Drive, Seaside Captainkidamusementpark. business.site

CANNON BEACH Ecola State Park 84318 Ecola Park Road, Cannon Beach Oregonstateparks.org

Family FunCycles 1160 S Hemlock St., Cannon Beach facebook.com/cannonbeachfamilyfuncyles Cannon Beach Escape Room 248 N Spruce St., Cannon Beach cannonbeachescaperoom.com

No visit to the North Coast is complete without a trek to the top of the Astoria Column to take in the panoramic views of the region. First dedicated by the Great Northern Railway in 1926, the column recently received a polish to preserve its historic uniqueness as a Northwest landmark. Buy a balsa wood plane at the gift shop for $1 and let it sail from the top. Visiting the park and entering the column is free, though parking is $5.

If the weather is nice, Tapiola Park on the south slope of Astoria overlooking Youngs Bay has an impressive playground featuring recreations of some of Astoria’s most notable landmarks. Named after the Finnish god of the forest, Tapiola also has a skate park for older kids.

Whether going for a stroll, riding the trolley or biking down the Astoria Riverwalk along the mighty Columbia River, take a moment to stop in for a bite or a pint at the waterfront Buoy Beer. Kids go wild for the slab of glass flooring they have in the main dining room which overlooks pilings. The lapping shore is often home to some very lazy and very loud sea lions. The beer and food at this family-friendly brewpub is reasonably priced.

Rain or shine, kids always go crazy for the Funland Arcade, which, oddly enough, has no relation to the similarly named business in Long Beach. The arcade has plenty of new and classic video games as well as bumper cars, fascination and an in-house Fultano’s Pizza for when the kiddos get hungry. Open since 1931, Seaside’s Funland is the area’s oldest amusement though it has certainly changed with the times. Putting money onto one of their Power Play Cards lets you control how much or how little money and time you want to spend there.

But the fun doesn’t stop at Funland. It spills down the block towards the Pacific where there’s more bumper cars, a Tilt-A-Whirl and a 10 hole putt-putt golf course, all collectively known as Interstate Amusement Co. All benefit from being indoors and under the same roof. Each ride is $2.50. Kids below a certain height are only $1.50. Interstate is also the home of the Seasidefamous Pronto Pup concession stand, which hand-dips corn dogs to order for $3.25 a pup, er, pop.

Captain Kid Amusement Park, like all kids, just keeps growing. Adding onto an 18 hole mini golf course and a go-kart track, they now boast a 26 foot rock climbing wall, a small, three-horse carousel and GyroXtreme! Rotate and Tumble for the tykes to try out some astronaut training like they might at NASA space camp. To find them on U.S. Highway 101 just look for the helicopters.

Wrapped around Tillamook Head, Ecola State Park is comprised of 9 miles of rugged, breathtaking coastline studded with Sitka spruce. The name is attributed to explorer Captain William Clark who misspelled the Chinook word for “whale.” Miles of trails shatter through a forest teeming with wildlife. Tide pools will keep the tykes happy for hours at no extra charge. Parking for $5 is the only cost unless you pack for a picnic.

Just in case you forgot to bring your bikes or need a more sturdy ride, Family FUNcycles in Cannon Beach rents recumbent tricycles and other models that really move on both street and sand. Kid bike trailers are available too. Feel like a real Goonie cruising past Cannon Beach’s famous Haystack Rock on the shore.

Nothing bonds a family like spending time together trying to get out of a locked room and the Cannon Beach Escape Room offers just that. Experience being locked in the pirate One-Eyed Jack’s captain’s quarters with only 60 minutes to get out before ye walk the plank. No matter the theme, up to 10 participants are given an hour to work together to find clues and develop strategies to find the key that will release them.

These games require communication and using your wits and keen deductive skills. Think you can make it out in time? Adults will have to pay $25 and children 14 and under $20 a head to know for sure.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

33

EVEN DOGS NEED A VACATION! Licensed & Bonded #150126 Supported by a fully equipped cabinet shop featuring DeWils Fine Cabinetry:

Making your entire beach vacation pet friendly with in-and-out privileges throughout the day!

503-436-2235 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 coasterconstruction.com

Family owned & operated since 1966

•Overnight Boarding Suites •Dog Playcare •Grooming •Full line of Pet Supplies

We are a full-service propane company where you will find...

• Rent and install propane tanks • Tanks from 25 - 1,000 gallons • Gas Appliance System Check • Fireplaces • Propane Heaters (space or whole house) • On-Demand Water Heaters • Gas appliance installations

1480 SE 9th StrEEt, WarrEnton

(503) 861-9817

BaYBrEEZE-BoarDInG.CoM

• High efficiency L.P. furnaces • Other Indoor and Outdoor Products • RV Parts and accessories • RV and Vehicle propane fill station • RV Dump Station • RV Pull Thru from Pacific Highway or Washington Ave North

1318 Pacific Hwy North • www.propanelongbeach.com Schedule an appointment online today!

Visit our website or call us toll free at

We also do sheet metal fabrication !

888-895-5509 Propane • RV Parts • Dump Station

Check out our new show room featuring gas appliances!

Pacific County Historical Society

MP 54, Hwy. 101 South Bend 360-875-5224 Museum & Visitor Center • Book Store Local and Northwest History • Maps and Charts Open Every Day! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Free Admission www.pacificcohistory.org

Our mission is to provide a continuum of highest quality service and care to meet the physical, social and emotional needs of our community.

The Coast’s favorite pizza, Fultano’s Pizza served while you bowl or dine in the large dining room.

Take out and delivery available. college and pro sports on our HD TV’s • Oregon video lottery rock ‘n bowl every Friday and Saturday night full bar and proudly pouring local SISU BEER on tap ®

Open at 11am 7 days a week Our Coast Magazine 2020 3518 Highway 101, Gearhart, OR • 503-738-5333 • gearhartbowl.com

34

CLATSOPHEALTH CARE DISTRICT In-Home Care Services Assisted Living Community

Out-patient Rehabilitation Dementia Residential Care

www.ClatsopCare.org

Not-for-profit care since 1979

Long-term Care Rehabilitation

GREAT SERVICE QUALITY GEAR EXPERT ADVICE 240 11 th St.

Plaza Jalisco

Authentic Mexican Cuisine

Purveyors of Curious Objects Astoria’s Artisan shop that invites you along for a journey

AstoriaCoffeeHouse.com

Open Daily

of spirit, time & place.

Family owned & operated for more than 17 years with delicious food & friendly service.

503.325.8067 www.cargoinc.com

1 Place st

DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPECIALS

itage Hispanic Her Celebration

g Salsa Makin Competition

212 Eighth Avenue Astoria • 503.338.4440 www.plazajaliscorestaurant.com

243 11th Street Astoria, OR 503.325.1787

Trust your vehicle safety to the professionals at

DEL’S O.K. TIRE Get to The Point.

Expert Service. Guaranteed.

JUNE 19, 20 & 21, 2020 Clatsop County Fairgrounds, Astoria, OR

Sa

72 years of the same local owners putting you first!

503-325-2861

35359 Hwy 101 Business • Astoria Store hours: Mon-Fri, 8-6; Sat. 8-4

Closed Sunday

DiscoverOurCoast.com

35

EAT & DRINK

OUR PICKS

Carruthers

Coffee Girl

Astoria, Oregon

Astoria, Oregon

By Lucy Kleiner

By Katherine Lacaze

Whether you’re in the mood for a classy date night or a boozy brunch with friends, Carruthers has the cocktail for you.

Nestled in the heart of downtown Astoria, Carruthers is a highend restaurant with an elegant, old-time feel and a friendly, small town staff. During the day, sunlight beams in through the window walls and provides an airy atmosphere. At night, twinkling lights and miniature lamps set the scene.

No matter the mood, the cocktail menu has the drink to match.

During the chillier evenings, warm up with a glass of pumpkin Autumn Mule or the classic Fireside, made with vodka or tequila, cocoa, cayenne and whipped cream.

If you’re craving a sip of summer, try out their Kentucky Relaxer, made with bourbon, lemon and light notes of lavender. If you just can’t decide, go for a personal favorite, the Blueberry Cucumber Gimlet, which comes with a sweet garnish and is almost as beautiful as it is tasty.

Cozy up to one of the glass fireplaces tucked in the corners, or step up to the marble bar at the center of the space. Enjoy the restaurant’s allday happy hour, and explore their signature drink selection. The cocktail bartender, David Licitra, has been crafting specialty drinks since the restaurant opened in 2016 and has mastered the singular taste of Astoria.

Stepping into Coffee Girl, it’s impossible not to be enticed by the strings of white lights draped by the windows, the verdant potted plants decorating tables and window sills and the large glass case displaying a wide variety of handmade pastries and treats.

The charming coffee shop, located at the end of Pier 39 in the oldest cannery building in the west, embodies a warm, vintage feel that pays homage to its namesake and history with a picture of Ellen Hansen, one of the original “coffee girls.”

For many years while the cannery was in operation, Hansen served coffee in the cafeteria that at the time was situated near the front of the pier. The counter she and others used is now inside Coffee Girl, which previously was cold storage for the cannery, and serves an identical purpose. Behind it, friendly staff members take orders for a selection of espresso-laced beverages, teas, paninis, breakfast sandwiches, baked goods and unique dishes, such as the lox bagel with marinated cucumbers.

A small group of bakers ensures there are scones, sweet breads, quiches, brownies, cookies and other treats available seven days of the week. The pastries and sweets featured each day depend on the ingredients on hand and the baker’s choice, although the quality is consistent.

Beside the cash register sits a large sign bearing the shop’s rotating collection of specialty beverages. Rivaling the high caliber of Coffee Girl’s menu are the breathtaking views of the Columbia River and Washington state shoreline offered from both indoor and outdoor seating.

Although Coffee Girl is located a bit off the beaten path, the shop’s reputation and interesting history draw in visitors, along with an ample amount of regulars.

Monica Blackwood, assistant manager, said, “There are few places, even in Astoria, where you can get coffee, and you’re literally sitting over the river.”

36

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

MyCovio’s

Yolk

Ocean Park, Washington

Manzanita, Oregon

By Patrick Webb

By Nicole Bales

The first time I went to MyCovio’s I chose lightly pan seared rockfish on a bed of spinach with an antiboise sauce crafted from nine ingredients including olives and apple cider. Tina Turner could have sung about it: simply the best.

On my second visit, eager for variety, knowledgeable server Matthew Sites steered me to the 8-ounce pork loin. Cooked sous vide — French for “in a vacuum” — it was tender, juicy and satisfying, served on a sweet bed of, oh, too few translucent onions.

It is remarkable that Ocean Park on the northern end of Washington state’s Long Beach Peninsula should have attracted a gentleman chef from Rotterdam, Holland’s blue-collar port city, home to Feyenoord, a pro soccer team feared for its uncompromising tackling.

On the playground during grade school, you would have picked the confident, imposing figure of Paul Klitsie for any team.

I eschew appetizers to save room for my entrée, but MyCovio’s is the exception. His bruschetta could be a meal: sliced beef with just enough mascarpone cheesy sauce on crispy toasted garlic French bread.

Three bites — the best $5 you will ever spend.

Klitsie brags everything is from scratch except tinned tomatoes.

Mushrooms are locally foraged; ocean seasons dictate that rockfish ensemble could be halibut or black cod. His fascination with all things Italian means the often-changing menu is pasta focused, with fettuccine, lasagna or spaghetti, washed down with one of eight wines, Fort George Vortex IPA, extra-dry prosecco or blackberry cider. Desserts — do save room — include tiramisu or panna cotta.

Tables are close to allow shared expressions of joy, but there is space for only five, plus a trio of bar seats to watch the chef work, so arrive early. My two starters and entrée cost $40. And that tender pork?

Vacuum sealed and lowered into a water bath roiling at 144 degrees for 56 minutes then pan seared when your order is placed. Proof this chef is a scientist, not merely an artist.

In the heart of downtown Manzanita, Yolk serves breakfast classics with meticulous attention to detail and exciting novelties.

Opened in 2018, Yolk serves breakfast and lunch until 2 p.m. The wide windows let in natural light, which blends with the warm lighting and cozy colors. The spacious and comfortable layout of the restaurant offers a relaxing atmosphere good for conversation.

The food is flavorful and well-seasoned. The thoughtful choices made both in the aesthetic of the restaurant and the flavors are difficult not to appreciate.

Almost everything down to the harissa sauce is made in house.

Two popular menu items are the huevos rancheros and french toast. The french toast is especially exceptional. Yolk far exceeds expectations for breakfast on the coast.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

37

EAT & DRINK

a Godfather’s STATE OF MIND

FAMILY-FRIENDLY PIZZERIAS PROVIDE A BOUNTY OF PIES TO CHOOSE FROM Words: Ryan Hume • Images: Hailey Hoffman

Whether you call it pie or za, there is no disputing that pizza has long been a national obsession, not to mention an easy way to pacify the family without turning on the oven, unless you aim for take and bake.

As universal as pizza is, or perhaps because of this, it is also always the subject of debate. What flour makes the perfect crust? How long does it need to rest or proof? How much sauce is too much sauce? Not enough cheese? Too much cheese? To fold or not to fold? Let’s not even get started on toppings, which can range from none to anchovies to BBQ chicken and everything else in between. Bringing silverware into this conversation will also only elicit open-mouthed scoffs from some purists while offending others.

38

Our Coast Magazine 2020

DiscoverOurCoast.com

39

EAT & DRINK The North Coast doesn’t have a particular style of pizza. It’s more an amalgamation of traditions stopped hard at the edge of the continent by Pacific winds.

An Angelina’s Pizzeria and Cafe worker fills a calzone with pepperoni, olives and lots of mozzarella cheese.

Of course, the debate extends far beyond components, methodology and utensils. Pizza is also extremely regional — a source of pride for cities and nations the world over. Since 1997, Neapolitan pizza — zoned by ingredient in the fabled birthplace of pizza, Naples, Italy — has obtained an official DOC or denominazione di origine controllata (denomination of control), a government-backed protection usually only applied to wine and cheese and other location-based delicacies.

The debate in the states tends to run between first and second cities: thin and balanced New York or extravagant, casseroledeep Chicago. Neo-Neapolitan is trying to worm its way into this argument one artisan decade at a time by way of wood-fired ovens and organic sifted flour.

The North Coast doesn’t have a particular style of pizza.

It’s more an amalgamation of traditions stopped hard at the edge of the continent by Pacific winds. In Astoria alone, the upper chamber of Fort George tosses out amazing wood-fired pies, Baked Alaska’s pizza annex let’s kids design their own before they are blistered in a gas oven and newby food cart Pizzuti’s splashes pies and slices with fresh basil or arugula for no extra charge. Sahara has its delivery game down; it’s what Domino’s aspires to be. On the water, Inferno Lounge also serves up New York-style slices.

Generally, you’ll see more seafood toppings offered on the North Coast than I hope you would, in say, Oklahoma. Speaking of, you won’t find Midwestern varietals — Chicago deep dish, Detroit-style — around here.

Today, pizza is strictly comfort food. And a comfortable place to eat it can be just as satisfying as a good slice. The unsung hero of all pizza is the traditional American parlor, where pies take no sides and soccer teams can kamikaze at the fountain machine on their way to the video games.

Pizza at Fort George Brewery + Public House

Freshly-made pizza dough is kneaded and stretched.

40

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Marinara sauce is evenly spread in a perfect spiral across the fresh dough.

Astoria Fultano’s Pizza owner Mark Cary slides a pizza into the oven in the back kitchen.

A pepperoni pizza sizzles in the hot woodfired oven.

Piping hot pizza is sliced and ready to serve.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

41

EAT & DRINK Our Coast rolled through a number of pizzerias which hit this family-friendly vibe without anyone having to risk too much dough. That said, most splittable pies do crest at over $20. Single $ apply to other menu items like appetizers and sandwiches.

Anyway, let’s get baking Pizza a’fetta

231 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach $-$$ Nestled amid a bustling corridor of downtown Cannon Beach, Pizza a’fetta has been hand-tossing award-winning pies since 1988. Once named one of the 50 Best Pizza Restaurants in the Nation by Pizza Today Magazine, Pizza a’fetta’s dining room is done up in a minimal yet classic parlor style, replete with the requisite red-checkered tablecloths, an upstairs banquet room and an adjoining to-go slice shop. The pies start with a delightfully spongey and airy crust that’s built upon with top-notch ingredients. When the weather is nice courtyard seating surrounding a gurgling fountain is the way to go.

And don’t forget to save room for dessert at the ice cream shop next door. Pizza a’fetta plans to open another location in Seaside in the future. Signature dishes include the Smoked Basil Chicken pie (14” $21.95/18” $32.95) and the Crab Artichoke Dip ($10.95) served with pesto breadsticks.

Angelina’s Pizzeria and Café

1815 S. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside $$ Angelina’s was always a solid stop for za in Seaside even before they moved across U.S. 101 to their more spacious and refined digs a few years back. With a cozy fire pit out back and a dramatic bed of inferno out front, Angelina’s really visualizes the flames they submit their pizzas to. Football-sized calzones, Stromboli, salads and sandwiches round out a very large menu. Pizza toppings include all of the usual suspects, some BBQ and Alfredo based specialties, but for a truly unique experience try The Philly (8” $13/12” $24/16” $30), which, like the name suggests, is a deconstructed Philly Cheesesteak with Italian beef, red onion, green or pepperoncini peppers, cheddar and mozzarella all sitting atop a house-made cream cheese sauce then baked until bubbly. Who says you can’t cheese up your sauce too?

Fultano’s Pizza

Multiple locations $$ With various spots littering the region, Fultano’s is the undisputed king of North Coast pizzaioli if only by pure volume alone. This is the pizza that coasties cut their teeth on. From Cannon Beach to Clatskanie and beyond, each Fultano’s is a little bit different as they are all operated as single-owner franchises. The Seaside Fultano’s is attached to the Funland Arcade on Broadway while the Gearhart location on U.S. 101 is inside the bowling alley. Astoria’s west end room is a classic pizza parlor with a small nook for video games and a large room for banquets and other events. Some similarities you’ll find between each 42

Our Coast Magazine 2020

location is a thick and garlicky ranch sauce, a salad bar and an all-youcan-eat lunch buffet. The pizza too is pretty standard across the board — an abundant amount of cheese and toppings. Where you really find the small variations on the menus is in the specialty pizzas which are named after hyper-local nods. For instance, order the Seasider at the Seaside location or the Fighting Fishermen — named after the high school’s sports mascot at the Astorian location — and you will get a unique combo with bay shrimp, mushrooms and olives.

Geno’s Pizza-N-Burgers

3693 Leif Erikson Drive, Astoria $-$$ Geno’s offers a classic parlor-style pie in the sort of dimly lit room one used to find at Abby’s Legendary and other vanishing institutions.

The pie is cracker-crisp on the bottom but still airy throughout as the cheese and toppings flow towards the outer edge where they burn into little bits of goodness against the pan. Like the name implies, yes, there are burgers — some quite gluttonous, like the 1 and 1/3 pound Double Super Burger patty — but also salads, hot sandwiches and all manner of things beer-battered and fried. Signature pies range from interesting vegetarian options like the Otis Opus (sm. $12.45/ lg. $25.15), which combines smoked gouda, artichoke hearts, garlic, red onion and sun-dried tomatoes atop an olive oil base, to the truly unusual, like the Breakfast Lover’s (same pricing), which starts with a pour of country gravy before layering on cheese, scrambled eggs, onion and sausage or bacon. Like a breakfast skillet on a pan crust.

Chico’s Pizza

4301 Pacific Way, Seaview, Washington $-$$ Behind the brilliant, mid-60’s kitschy façade of Chico’s, things can get pretty busy, especially during the summer. In such a large space, rambunctious kids, percolated by fountain drinks, speed off in every direction with the faulty GPS of unnerved cats. Fans of “Stranger Things” will appreciate the 80s-period arcade games. In fact, much of the experience of eating at Chico’s is like time travel stung with nostalgia, though the prices have certainly increased since the year “Back to the Future” was released, but what hasn’t? As for the pies, Chico’s is not afraid of cheese. The crust is crisp and the toppings are plentiful. One distinctive feature of Chico’s is they certainly offer more combos featuring Canadian bacon than other joints, including the Sore Thumb (sm. $11.95/ lg. $25.20), which includes the aforementioned up-north ham, pepperoni, German and Italian sausage and ground beef. A Seafood Combo (same pricing) pairs bay shrimp with smoked oysters and anchovies upon request.

SUNDAY AFTERNOON

Live

Join us for the following upcoming performances!

Visit our website at sundayafternoonlive.org for updates on more performances to come!

All concerts start at 2pm.

The High Kings March 29th, 2020 2pm - 4pm

Rousing & Reflective, energetic & insightful Irish Ballad Music!

Nurture your

Mind

Body and Spirit

Burgers: Bacon, Cheese, Chili, Garden, Teriyaki and many more plus the BIG Kahuna: 1/2 lb burger with Bacon, Cheese and Pineapple!

Sarah Hagen

April 26 th, 2020 2pm - 4pm

Full service Bar with our Signature Bloody Mary’s, and $1.00 Jello Shots!

The “Perk Up Pianist!”

Sponsors: Sherry Aust Beryl Adams Thrivent Financial

B

E S T Bloody M ary in To wn RAT on Trip ED Advisor

Will Martin

1

#

10% OFF

May 10th, 2020 2pm - 4pm

*excludes alcohol

The voice you must hear to believe!

Mention This Ad

Sponsors: Ena Bale Janet Furfiord in Memory of Don Furfiord Cecelia Seaman

Buy advance tickets at: www.sundayafternoonlive.org or by phone (360) 836-4419

Appetizers • Salads • Chowder with Beer Bread • Sandwiches Fish & Chips (Cod or Halibut) Clam Strips • Chicken Strips Taste of Hawaii: Teriyaki (Chicken or Shrimp) & Rice, Hawaiian Noodle (Chicken or Shrimp)

Sponsors: Evers Electric Seaquest Motel Security State Bank Bayshore Realty Willapa Vet Services

In the HISTORIC RAYMOND THEATRE

Families Welcome

111 Broadway • Seaside 503-738-3271

232 N. Spruce Street Cannon Beach 503.436.8772

If you don’t buy your fish from us, we both lose money!

111 Broadway Seaside 503-738-3271

74 years serving visitors in Long Beach

✓ FRESH WILD SEAFOOD ✓ CUSTOM SMOKEHOUSE ✓ OWNED BY A LOCAL

CANNERY

WARRENTON DEEP SEA MARKET BORNSTEIN SEAFOODS,INC 45 NE Harbor Place, Warrenton 503.861.3911 WWW.BORNSTEIN.COM

Road Trip to Long Be ach, Wa shing to n

Large Grassy Sites • Clean Laundry Room Free Showers • Walk To Downtown Stroll To The Beach WiFi & Cable TV Access

360-642-2711 driftwood-rvpark.net info@driftwood-rvpark.net

DiscoverOurCoast.com

43

EAT & DRINK

Scooped

Sweet treats from Cannon Beach to Long Beach

Words & Photos: Ryan Hume

While it can sizzle in the summer on a rare blue day, more often than not it’s tepid, gray and muggy around the Columbia-Pacific. It’s not even close to that Louisiana stick, but half of the reason people head to the ocean in the first place, even locals, is to cool off, slow down and play.

Our Coast rounded up some of our favorite scoop shops between Cannon Beach and Long Beach.

Before setting out, I realized I needed to enlist the help of a bonafide ice cream expert.

So I packed my 8-year-old daughter into the car and headed up the sweet stretch of U.S. Highway 101.

We decided to only visit one scoop shop per town and searched out places that didn’t have multiple locations. Some were chosen randomly, while others were already personal favorites.

Every spot showcased takes credit cards and cash. What follows is our kid-approved guide to fulfilling your ice cream dreams.

44

Our Coast Magazine 2020

I realized I needed to enlist the help of a bonafide ice cream expert, my 8-year-old daughter.

A waffle bowl of bubble gum flavored ice cream at Suzy’s Scoops.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

45

EAT & DRINK

Suzy’s Scoops 231 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach Variety: 32 flavors • Scoop: Gigantic • Split Scoop: Yes Right across the street from the long-standing Osburn’s Ice Creamery and hidden behind the slice counter of Pizza a’Feta in the courtyard of the Village Centre in Cannon Beach stands this cute, brightly painted storefront with a handsome logo.

Established in 2016, Suzy’s offers plenty of scoops as well as milkshakes ($4.95), malts ($5.95) and root beer floats ($4.25). While Suzy wasn’t in, service was attentive and affable, and the only employee was patient with samples. My sugar cone ($3.25) was top-heavy but sturdy with an oblong orb of Oregon Hazelnut Salted Caramel. My daughter’s waffle bowl ($4.50) was bursting with Blue Bubblegum. I watched her carefully mine each piece of bubblegum and set it aside for later. Remember: it’s Suzy’s Scoops, not Scoop. Each of our singles was easily a double.

There’s idyllic courtyard seating (perfect only for a sunny day) and public restrooms about a block away. Suzy’s uses Tillamook Ice Cream, an excellent brand, and store-bought cones and bowls, all of which are fresh.

One nice touch was a paper cup filled with pennies labeled “Free Wishes.” My daughter pinched one and tossed it in the gurgling fountain outside and I asked her what she had wished for. “I can’t tell you that!” She scowled. “It won’t come true!” Smart girl.

An Oregon Hazelnut Salted Caramel ice cream cone at Suzy’s Scoops.

Sea Star Gelato 8 N. Columbia St., Seaside Variety: 22 flavors • Scoop: Generous • Split Scoop: Yes Recently crowned the Best Ice Cream Shop in Oregon by Travel + Leisure Magazine, Sea Star has been shoveling out delicious, often idiosyncratic flavors of scratch-made gelato — Italy’s answer to you scream, I scream — since 2015. Just a stone’s throw off Broadway in Seaside, the shop is boldly painted and brings to mind 1960s mod style. The offerings rotate and are often new. There is even a 21 and over boozy gelato, gluten-free options and vegan sorbets.

The staff is friendly and knowledgeable. As this place can get pretty chaotic, it is a testament to the staff that they maintain poise and patience. At this point in our travels my daughter had figured out that samples were a way to score a little more free ice cream. I was the only one who looked a little put-off when she asked for her eighth sample.

Gelato tends to be denser and silkier than your average ice cream, and this translated well in the Red Velvet scoop I had fit into a sugar cone ($3.50). The texture resembled a moist cake befitting the flavor. My daughter decided on a split scoop of Mystery (turned out to be Strawberry Cream) and Confetti Cake in a cake cone ($3.25) and was audibly pleased.

Out at the beach, my daughter was unimpressed with my gelato etiquette as red drips started to win. “Dad, you’re doing it wrong.” She whipped her large scoop into a perfect cyclone. “See? Perfect ice cream.” But I was losing. “Dad!” she laughed. “It looks like your fingers are bleeding!”

A scoop of Red Velvet gelato at Sea Star Gelato.

46

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Sweet Shop Gearhart 567 Pacific Way, Gearhart Variety: 24 flavors • Scoop: Generous • Split Scoop: Yes Once you slip off U.S. Highway 101 on to Pacific Way, downtown Gearhart reminds me of Cannon Beach-lite. This is a compliment. There’s the same sea-beaten architectural aesthetic, galleries and luxury goods, but it’s sparser and much quieter. This little gem is located on the same block as the Sotheby’s real estate office and is the only ice cream game in town.

The ice cream case is predominate in the espresso-bar room and stocked full of Cascade Glacier flavors; a producer out of Eugene that only sells wholesale. The afternoon was quiet and the two employees were happy to entertain my daughter’s newfound power of free samples.

After packing her a cake cone filled with Rainbow Sherbet ($3), I chose a handmade waffle cone stuffed with Espresso Explosion ($4.50), which was a coffee-flavored base, freckled with chocolate shrapnel and shards of coffee beans. Along with a cold brew coffee ($3.50) that complimented the scoop, this was the perfect pick-me-up after so much dairy.

When asked if I wanted room for cream, the answer was a resounding “Oh god no!”

The Sweet Shop is an easy place to laze around.

“It’s small and cute,” my daughter said. “The patio had a lot of seating and even a little mini-table.” Technically, there are plenty of tables on the patio, but she became obsessed with one short concrete garden table she was sure was meant just for kids.

A Rainbow Sherbet ice cream cone at Sweet Shop Gearhart.

Frite & Scoop 175

14th St., Astoria

Variety: 12 flavors* • Scoop: Average • Split Scoop: Yes * Flavors announced at noon on Facebook every day

Back in our home base of Astoria, we landed at one of our regular haunts down by the 14th Street ferry dock. Frite & Scoop has been churning out intriguing French custard-based scoops and Belgium-style pomme frites since fall 2014.

This little shop is a handsome one, with a hardwood counter stretching across a wall of windows overlooking the Astoria Riverwalk, trolley tracks and Marine Drive beyond. There’s also plenty of covered outdoor seating where you can watch the Columbia River Bar Pilots splash up to the landing of the ferry dock.

The staff is friendly and keeps calm even as it gets overwhelmingly busy and welcomed everyone who entered even as my daughter thoughtfully considered her many samples.

You can always count on something new and unexpected behind the case at Frite & Scoop, but Chef’s Choice, Astoria’s perennial favorite ice cream, is always on hand. So it seems is some variation of a “Fog,” a tea-flavored base, usually sublime with the earthy undertones of Earl Grey.

My daughter decided on a split scoop of Inside Out S’more and Sweet Cream (essentially just the pure custard base) with a zigzag of caramel sauce on top ($3.50 for the scoop plus $.75 for the topping). I was far from disappointed by the Moroccan Brown Butter swirled with housemade raspberry jam then slammed into a krumkake waffle cone ($4.50). The custard base was run through with ras el hanout, a North African spice blend that has as many variations as Indian curry, and enjoyed the subtle notes of cinnamon and nutmeg that played off the sweet/tart of the berries and the crunchy waffle.

What really blew the young one’s mind was an order of sinfully salty, classic, twice-fried frites (regular order $4) with a side of vanilla soft serve ($2) offered as a dipping sauce. “Look dad, the fry is too hot.” She dipped the fry and shrugged. “Now it’s cold.” The soft serve is also vegan.

Moroccan Brown Butter ice cream swirled with housemade raspberry jam in a krumkake waffle cone and a bowl of Inside Out S’more and Sweet Cream with carmel sauce at Frite & Scoop.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

47

EAT & DRINK

Scoopers Market 101 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, Wash.

Variety: 61 flavors • Scoop: Gigantic • Split Scoop: Yes Having been around for more than 20 years, Scoopers is a Long Beach institution. The location is ideal, marooned inside a dirt parking lot at a right angle between the main strip and access to the beach. Port-a-potties on the side of the market are the only facilities, which means no running water for sticky hands, children or mustaches.

Scoopers is also a lot more than just what the name implies. It’s a full service mini-mart stocked with wine, beer and snacks, a taffy stand, pizza, caramel corn and many, many tchotchkes.

Scoopers hands-down has the largest inventory of ice cream in the entire region. To do so, they source from a number of quality Northwest brands including Umpqua, Tillamook, Cascade Glacier and more.

Mirroring that quantity was the number of beachgoers looking for a frosty treat. The line was at least 30 deep. There were only two young

employees behind the counter, pingponging between the immense display case and the cash register.

When our time came to order, my daughter ordered a waffle bowl with cotton candy ice cream and a marshmallow topping ($6.55). When she was informed the marshmallow topping was actually a syrup, she switched to gummy worms since we had already paid for a topping. I had a scoop of Huckleberry Cheesecake in a waffle cone ($6).

While these were the most expensive scoops we had encountered along our journey, they were without a doubt also the most mountainous.

Which brings me back to the point: Scoopers is all around a quantity game, with the most flavors and the biggest scoops. They also probably serve more patrons on a Tuesday afternoon than any of the other establishments we visited.

A scoop of Huckleberry Cheesecake ice cream at Scoopers Market in Long Beach.

Astoria Brewing Co.

Beer Float

Sometimes a dollop of vanilla isn’t enough to wash away a long day, so why not plunk that scoop into a pint of local beer? I recalled that the Astoria Brewing Co. used to have an open chalkboard-sign invitation to do just that back in their Wet Dog Café days.

Since they have rebranded, the sign is no longer up, but the bartender didn’t even blink when I asked for a float. I asked the bartender what beer he would recommend, and he chose the Skipper’s Sourmash Stout, with an ABV of 5.2%. “It’s on Nitro, so it’ll be even creamier,” he said.

This is yet again another example of why you should always listen to your bartender.

It arrived as a 12 ounce pour in a 16 ounce pint glass with a scallop of ice cream sitting atop like the exaggerated head on a perfectly poured Guinness.

Never before have I consumed a beer with a spoon and a straw. I did draw a few funny looks from other patrons at the bar, but who cares? There was a dunk of Tillamook French Vanilla in my stout and it was melting like an ice cap. I had to get at it. Eventually, the two married and birthed a sweet beverage.

There are a lot of breweries in the area, all of which are family friendly to a certain hour, and if they have ice cream anywhere on the menu, they can make it float. Beer Float ($7).

A beer float at Astoria Brewing Co. made with Skipper’s Sourmash Stout.

48

Our Coast Magazine 2020

2019’s Sweetest Bakery in Oregon!

2019’s Sweetest Bakery in Oregon!

2019’s Sweetest Bakery in Oregon!

2019’s Sweetest Bakery in Oregon!

Contact us today!

101 BOLSTAD AVE. LONG BEACH, WA 98631 Call: (360) 642-1250 Fax: 888-308-2878 Email: LBCompounder @penpharmrx.com

Families Welcome!

• 18+ Signature Hamburgers & Sandwiches, Hot Dogs • Fish & Chips Your choice of Cod, Salmon or Halibut • Fresh Home-made Soups daily • Hand-Made Specialty Milk Shakes in 21+ flavors & Soft-Serve Ice Cream • Sunday Breakfast Buffet Sausage, Bacon, Eggs Benedict, Biscuits & Gravy, Fresh Fruit, Hash Browns, Coffee, Juice, Milk and More.

A LOCAL FAVORITE! (9-11am)

• Freshly Made Clam Chowder in a Sourdough Bread Bowl

240 N. Hemlock St, Cannon Beach, OR (503) 436-0399 cannonbeachbakery.com Always open at 7 am Closed Tuesdays

• Nightly Dinner Specials • Sweet Baby Back Ribs, or Prime Rib Fridays & Saturdays 4 pm - close... with baked potato & choice of soup or small salad • Outside (Pet Friendly) Dining

o We also ders” rd “To Go O

• Kids Menu Specials - Includes a drink & treat!

• Kite Room - Reserve for your next function

www.hungryharbor.com 313 Pacific Hwy, Downtown Long Beach, WA 360-642-5555

Menu Online!

Summer Hours Mon–Sat 10am – 9pm Sunday 9am – 9pm

Winter Hours Mon–Sat 11am – 7pm Sunday 9am – 6pm

Also offering deli sandwiches, full espresso bar, artisan bread, pastries galore and much more!

240 N. Hemlock St, Cannon Beach, OR (503) 436-0399 cannonbeachbakery.com Always open at 7 am Closed Tuesdays 240 N. Hemlock St, Cannon Beach, OR (503) 436-0399 cannonbeachbakery.com Also offering deli sandwiches, full espresso bar, artisan bread, pastries galore and much more!

AlwaysBeach, open at Tuesdays 240 N. Hemlock St, Cannon OR7 am (503)Closed 436-0399 cannonbeachbakery.com Also offering deli sandwiches, fullopen espresso bread, pastries galore and much more!

Always at 7bar, amartisan Closed Tuesdays Also offering deli sandwiches, full espresso bar, artisan bread, pastries galore and much more!

TWO TIMELESS OCEANFRONT INNS

SEA SPRITE GUEST LODGINGS Your Home in Cannon Beach

503.436.2266 • www.seasprite.com • 1.866.828.1050

Spectacular views of Haystack Rock, Pacific Ocean & Coastal Mountains. Kitchens, Gas fireplaces, Wireless, Guest Laundry, Oceanfront Picnic Area & BBQ.

Spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean & Coastal Mountains. Kitchens, Gas fireplaces, Air Jet Tubs, Guest Laundry, Wireless, Private Balconies, 32HD Flatscreens.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

49

EAT & DRINK

50

Our Coast Magazine 2020

a

scene WHISKEY BARS HOLD A BEVY OF COOL CHOICES, COZY ATMOSPHERES Words: Ryan Hume • Images: Hailey Hoffman

he climate on the North Coast of Oregon is nearly identical to that of the Scottish isle of Islay, victim on its western shores to the open moods of the Atlantic and world famous for producing peaty, smoky scotches like Laphroaig. Suffering similar bouts of foul weather, it is no surprise that our coastal communities also have a taste for aged brown booze and its warming effects, though some local whiskeycentric establishments have popped up to offer a taste rain or shine.

While you can find a top shelf pour at many of the area’s bars, and there are plenty of craft distillers like Adrift on the Long Beach Peninsula and Pilot House in Astoria and Seaside, Our Coast decided to take a look at some of the local bars built around the idea of whiskeys, cultivated with a near-obsessive sense of collection to produce unique shelves pulled from the world over.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

51

EAT & DRINK

Chip MacGregor holds a bottle of WhistlePig straight rye whiskey from the top shelf at his bar.

MacGregor’s Whiskey Bar With two locations, MacGregor’s Whiskey Bar boasts a list with over 200 amber liquors.

The original opened just three blocks from the beach — in the former home of Vino, a wine bar — in a building damaged in the freak tornado that hit downtown Manzanita in October 2016, though you wouldn’t know it from its warm, wooden interior.

Owner Chip MacGregor, a literary agent who also sources out the supply, originally developed a taste for the brown drink when working as a publisher for Time Warner in Manhattan in the early aughts. With a last name steeped in Scottish mythology, MacGregor’s interest in aged liquors seems like destiny.

“There were a few books done on the topic,” he said. “And that was just as the single malt rage was beginning and when I would go around with authors, agents and editors, people often wanted to sit somewhere and order a nice Scotch or an interesting bourbon and I realized that I liked this and I wanted to know more about it.”

Having relocated to Manzanita after a stint in Nashville, Tennessee, MacGregor and his wife, Polly, decided to open the whiskey bar and get connected with their new community. “It was something a little different that they didn’t really have here at the beach,” he said.

Tucked in the back room of Morris’ Fireside Restaurant in Cannon Beach is the new MacGregor’s, which opened in June 2019. “I was literally having breakfast in there one morning and looked over and thought this would be a great space,” he said.

While some businesses experience growing pains, expansion does not seem to have hurt the quality of service nor the ample supply of brown liquors on display at the most recent MacGregor’s.

52

Our Coast Magazine 2020

With a last name steeped in Scottish mythology, MacGregor’s interest in aged liquors seems like destiny.

Owner Chip MacGregor pours Laphroaig, a single malt scotch whiskey, into a flight of tulip whiskey glasses.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

53

EAT & DRINK

Blaylock’s Whiskey Bar The newcomer, Blaylock’s, in downtown Astoria on the block that has come to be known as “The Duane Triangle,” hope to match or surpass MacGregor’s stock of 200 bottles. Bartender Ben Thompson, who spent two years in Edinburgh leading tours on scotch, says they currently have more than 155 bottles.

Along with bar manager Cory Teubner, Thompson oversees a five-tier whiskey wall, shelled in handsome green tile, with an old-school library ladder. Things are quartered, quarantined and compartmentalized by region—Irish, Scotch, bourbon, Japanese, but know if Teubner has to get up on that ladder, things will get expensive.

This wall is wellcurated by co-owner Seth Howard, who along with partner Michael Angiletta, has put together an extensive collection of bottles, ranging from the known and necessary to the rare.

These establishments do have a few things in common: upscale, wooden interiors, small plate offerings focusing mostly on charcuterie and sharable snacks and friendly, knowledgeable blackclad staffs. Both also offer flights designed by region or specialty, like an Oregon or Japanese whiskey flight.

Each has its own extravagances and whimsies too, like MacGregor’s pour of a rare Pappy Van Winkle that goes for a modest $139 or Blaylock’s Jefferson’s Ocean Aged at Sea, which is also a Kentucky bourbon, but this one is barreled and tied to a boat that swings across the equator four or five times, from Antarctica to elsewhere, experiencing severe weather that allows the barrels to swell and release. It’s this kind of magical thinking that allows for a $22 price tag on a two ounce pour.

Things are compartmentalized by region, but know if Teubner has to get up on that ladder, things will get expensive.

Cory Teubner pours a flight of whiskey at Blaylock’s Whiskey Bar.

54

Our Coast Magazine 2020

DiscoverOurCoast.com 55 DiscoverOurCoast.com 55

EAT & DRINK

Bartenders Ben Thompson and Corey Teubner mix drinks at Blaylock’s Whiskey Bar in Astoria.

Each place also has its own ways of creating a fan base and encouraging regulars. Blaylock’s recently opened a private bottle room — which, with blue fluorescent lights, looks like a locker room built in the movie “Tron” — where customers can store their own stock. They also have a whiskey passport where as you drink your way across a region of the world you can earn a prize.

MacGregor’s also has a whiskey club, dubbed as a secret society, which features first pours from rare bottles and monthly tastings as well as other events.

MacGregor partnered recently with Rogue Distillery out of Newport to create a new spirit. “The reason was they had six barrels of distilled spirits that were aged different ways. They were kind of leftovers—orphan barrels basically,” he said. “So

MacGregor’s Whiskey Bar 387 Laneda Ave., Manzanita 100 E Second St. B, Cannon Beach macgregorswhiskeybar.com www.facebook.com/macgregorsbar www.instagram.com/macgregorsbar

56

Our Coast Magazine 2020

they invited a couple of us in. You know, so you mix and match and we soon came up with a flavor. They are calling it the Pinot Project as the whiskey is spending the last few months of its life in used Pinot Noir casks. It’s in very limited quantity.”

Owning a whiskey bar isn’t always just fun and games.

Some visitors want to know what’s best, and are disappointed without an answer. “People always ask, ‘What’s your favorite?’”

MacGregor said. “And for me, it always depends on the mood I’m in and the place I’m at. In the wintertime, when it’s cold, I love a great smoky Islay scotch. But other times, when it’s not windy and rainy, I love a great rye. If I had to pick one thing, I would say I love WhistlePig Rye. WhistlePig is a product out of Vermont.

They just make a great rye whiskey.”

Blaylock’s Whiskey Bar 433 13th St., Astoria blaylockswhiskeybar.com/ www.facebook.com/Blaylockswhiskeybar www.instagram.com/blaylockswhiskeybar

25 stores • RV Parking P O R T WAY

TAVERN OPEN 7 DAYS LUNCH & DINNER

21+ OVER • Large Variety of Wines & Cocktails • Domestic & Imported Brews • Sandwiches, Soups & Salads • Great Fish and Chips • Astoria’s Best Charbroiled Burger • Succulent Steaks 422 West Marine Dr., Astoria 503-325-2651

We offer Tax Identity Shield®

A tool to help you better protect yourself from tax identity theft.

We Provide Year Round:

• Tax Preparation • E-File • Tax Planning • • Business Services • Bookkeeping & Payroll • • Tax Audit Support & Services • • Free 2nd Look Review • Peace of Mind • • Enrolled Agent Audit Representation • • DLTC 26932 & OBTP B15100 & B14489

BATH & BODY WORKS BOOK WAREHOUSE CARTER’S CBD HEMP STORE OUTLET CHRISTOPHER & BANKS COASTAL OCCASIONS Columbia Memorial Hospital Primary Care Clinic CMH Community Pharmacy DAISY MAY’S SANDWICH SHOP EDDIE BAUER FAMOUS FOOTWEAR OUTLET GNC HANES BRANDS HELLY HANSEN IT’S 5 DISTILLERY NIKE FACTORY STORE OSHKOSH B’GOSH PENDLETON Free PERFECT LOOK RACK ROOM SHOES Coupon RUE21 SCOUT NW TRADING COMPANY Book THE WINE AND BEER HAUS TOKYO TERIYAKI VAN HEUSEN ZUMIEZ

Our preparers are Licensed with the Oregon Board of Tax Preparers

ASTORIA 1095 MARINE DR.

503-325-1166

SEASIDE/GEARHART 3003 HWY 101

503-717-5206

OPEN APRIL-DEC MON-SAT 10-8 SUN 10-6 OPEN JAN-MAR SUN-THURS 10-6 FRI-SAT 10-8

seasideoutlets.com Hwy 101 & 12th Ave Seaside, Or 503.717.1603 DiscoverOurCoast.com

57

Making Sweet Memories in Cannon Beach for Over 56 Years!

Downtown Cannon Beach

Freshest Homemade: Saltwater Taffy Chocolates Caramel Corn Caramel Apples & MORE!!

Wedding Treats & Gift Baskets Available!

We can ship candy directly to you!

Check us out on Facebook for updates, specials & photos

ROYAL CAB

L.L.C.

Established 1996

Tap A Button - Get A Taxi For More information visit OneLocal.com

• Gift Cards • Friendly Service • Competitive Rates • • Pet Friendly • Smoke Free • • Cash • Debit • Visa/Mastercard & Discovery Accepted •

Open 24 hours/7 days a week! • www.royalcab.net

Royal Cab of Astoria LOOK FOR COUPONS AND SPECIALS ON OUR WEBSITE AND ON OUR FACEBOOK PAGE 256 N Hemlock • Cannon Beach www.brucescandy.com • 503-436-2641

Fast, friendly care without an appointment! When you need quick care, come to one of our convenient CMH Urgent Care locations!

Astoria

CMH Health & Wellness Pavilion 2265 Exchange Street

Seaside

At the Seaside Outlet Mall 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive #210

Warrenton

Near Staples 1639 SE Ensign Lane #B103

58

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Astoria, Warrenton • 503-325-5818

58245 COLUMBIA RIVER HWY • ST HELENS 503.397.3502 WWW.COLUMBIARIVERMOTO-SPORTS.COM powersports.honda.com UTILITY ATVs ARE RECOMMENDED FOR RIDERS 16 YEARS AND OLDER. ATVs CAN BE HAZARDOUS TO OPERATE. FOR YOUR SAFETY, BE RESPONSIBLE. READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL. ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. BE CAREFUL ON DIFFICULT TERRAIN. ALL ATV RIDERS SHOULD TAKE A TRAINING COURSE (FREE FOR NEW BUYERS. ASK YOUR DEALER OR CALL ASI AT 800-887-2887).

NEVER RIDE AFTER CONSUMING DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, ON PAVED SURFACES, ON PUBLIC ROADS, WITH PASSENGERS, OR AT EXCESSIVE SPEEDS. NO STUNT RIDING. RESPECT THE ENVIRONMENT WHEN RIDING. FourTrax®, Foreman® and Rancher® are registered trademarks of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2019 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (7/19)

Full Service Grooming Featuring the “Splash & Dash”

Full line of Pet Beach Gear Pet Food and Supplies

Call 503-739-7347 or visit our website at

www.lewisandbark.dog 753 1st Avenue, Seaside

36th Season Musical Melodrama

Shanghaied in Astoria

July 9th through September 12th Thursday through Saturday at 7pm Sunday Matinees: July 19th, August 16th, September 6th at 2pm

$10

Thursdays*

$15

Premium Front Row Seats $20 All Other Seats $15 (except premium front row)

All Oth e Seats r

Children $10 (12 and under) *$10 Thursdays (all seats except front row tables A-E)

For tickets, visit our website http://asocplay.com 129 West Bond Street | Uniontown | Astoria

DiscoverOurCoast.com

59

EAT & DRINK

PICNIC LIKE A PRO

THE NORTH COAST OFFERS A BOUNTY OF PLACES TO EAT OUTSIDE Words & Photos: Lucy Kleiner, Hailey Hoffman, Nicole Bales and Edward Stratton

PIZZA ON THE BEACH: A CLASSIC COAST COMBO Pizza is one of those rarities that can be enjoyed at anytime, anywhere by anyone.

Vegan? No problem. At a concert? It’s there. Just woke up? No one is judging. The combination of fluffy crust, melted cheese and warm red sauce is hard to beat.

But if you want to enjoy pizza like a North Coast local, there’s one key ingredient you don’t want to miss: sand.

No, really. The North Coast is the perfect place to feast on a picnic like a pro, right on the beach. But before you head to the ocean, head to Astoria to pick up the pie.

Astoria is known for its up-and-coming cuisine offerings — but as far as pizza goes, Astoria isn’t up-and-coming. It’s there.

A number of places offer delicious pizza 60

Our Coast Magazine 2020

throughout the town. On the east edge, Geno’s Pizza and Burgers is full of comfort food. On the other end of town, Fultano’s Pizza offers all the classics atop a delicious cornmeal crust. At the heart of Astoria lies Fort George Brewery, where a woodstone pizza oven cranks out vegan, vegetarian and carnivorous pizza combos.

But if you want classic Astoria pizza, head to the kitchen that stands atop the Columbia itself: Inferno Lounge.

Call in your order, or walk in and order a pizza to go while you enjoy the river. The service is quick and friendly, and you can’t beat the price — a 20 in. pie starting at $20.

Grab a salad to-go as well, and bring in your own containers to reduce your plastic use.

By Lucy Kleiner

After you’ve secured your slices, head to the sand. Sunset Beach is about a 15 minute drive from the lounge and worth the tantalizing smell that will fill the car along the way. Once you’re there, you can pull right out onto the sand in your vehicle and set up camp.

Bring camp chairs, a blanket, or pop open the trunk of your car and enjoy the view from there. It doesn’t matter how you feast, the food and the phenomenon of warm pizza and a chilly view is enough.

As all locals know, a pizza picnic on Sunset Beach is one of the best ways to treat yourself to the wonders — natural and culinary — the Columbia-Pacific has to offer. This crust and coast combo is made for the movies, and it’s right in your backyard.

CREPES IN CANNON BEACH Cannon Beach, known for its breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean and for the massive Haystack Rock jutting from the sands, has a plethora of quick, convenient bites to grab before heading to the beach or up the trails of the neighboring Ecola State Park.

Just a moment’s walk from the beach, Crepe Neptune has the perfect grab-and-go options for a quick bite by the water. Neptune offers over a dozen different menu items, all wrapped in a thin French-style pancake.

Neptune mixes the flavors of lemon curd and fresh strawberries or goat cheese and jalapeños to create locally-themed crepes named for local landmarks and icons like the Goonies and Tilly. The savory Neah-Kah-Nie, filled with fresh apple, brie, balsamic glaze and a sprinkling of spinach, makes the perfect lunchtime snack and is perfectly accompanied by the classic Haystack, filled with Nutella, banana and whipped cream, for dessert. Number 19 on the menu is Neptune’s “Famous Crepe” – Nutella, fresh strawberries, banana, Tillamook vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.

Each crepe comes in a little triangle to-go box, perfect for holding the crepe one-handed and keeping your snack sand-free. As you make your way through the crepe, the box has little perforations, allowing you to tear away segments of the cardboard packaging as the

By Hailey Hoffman

crepe gets smaller and smaller. The ingenious design serves well for any beach adventure.

After leaving Crepe Neptune, find an entrance to the expansive beach less than a minute walk away, and enjoy your crepe with views of the Pacific Ocean, Haystack Rock and Ecola Point. Bring a blanket to sit on or find one

BREAD, OCEAN IN MANZANITA

of the many driftwood logs scattering the beach to lounge on while watching the waves crash on the beach and the sun set, if you time it right.

Crepe Neptune sits on the north end of town at Hemlock Street and Second Street and is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. during the peak season.

By Nicole Bales

When planning a picnic on the beach in Manzanita the best place to stop is Bread and Ocean.

The deli and bistro is just a few blocks from the beach and offers several breakfast, lunch or dinner items to eat there or take to go.

The restaurant is cozy and bright and offers a variety of salads, deli items and delicious baked goods. The sandwiches are made with bread made fresh daily in their bakery and you can choose from a list of their freshly made sandwiches or prepared food and pair it with a salad.

Order a “Lunch Box” which includes a sandwich, cookie or chips and a side salad to take with you to the beach or enjoy at the peak of one of the many hikes in the area.

A favorite is the roast beef with horseradish chive crema, Tillamook cheddar cheese, pickled onions and arugula on fresh sourdough beard.

They also offer vegetarian options like the veggie Caprese with grilled zucchini or marinated tempeh, mozzarella, basil pesto, spinach, roasted red pepper mayo with a balsamic reduction on fresh ciabatta bread.

There are a lot of places to lay down a blanket and have a picnic on the beach. If you chose to take lunch with you on a hike, there are many nearby hikes to chose from at Neakahnie-Manzanita State Park or Nehalem Bay State Park.

If the beach is not exactly picnic weather, Bread and Ocean’s indoor and outdoor seating is a great alternative.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

61

EAT & DRINK

FISHMONGERS AT FORT STEVENS

Few places on the North Coast beat the views from Fort Stevens State Park’s Clatsop Spit, wedged between the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. And FishMongers, an unassuming to-go fish house at the corner of Pacific Drive and Iredale Street in Hammond serving heaping portions of fried goodness, provides an underrated picnic pit stop for carnivores and pescatarians on their way to the park.

Ed Bussert, a former police officer, said he saw the line outside Bowpicker Fish & Chips, the venerated fried tuna dealer on Duane Street in Astoria. He and a partner opened FishMongers in the summer of 2017.

“It’s one of those things, if you build it they’ll come,” Bussert said. “My marketing is, ‘If you find me you’re lucky.’ Because I don’t market.”

62

Our Coast Magazine 2020

By Edward Stratton

FishMongers’ menu stays simple but expands beyond Bowpicker’s, including staples like tuna, halibut, cod, rockfish, squid, shrimp and some seasonal surprises. Most everything is beer-battered and fried into fillets, sandwiches and tacos, aside from a shrimp cocktail. Orders come atop a bed of crinkle-cut fries with side of coleslaw, ketchup, marinara and a lemon wedge, all stuffed into bulging styrofoam containers.

FishMongers keeps a cozy lobby complete with a fake fireplace, a hot sauce station and a cooler full of drinks. But no bathrooms mean no indoor dining. The restaurant includes a couple of picnic tables outside looking out on Pacific Drive — fine in a pinch and some good weather, but not much of a view.

Instead, take your mountain of fish and chips down the road to Carruthers Memorial

Park, where you can take fido to frolic offleash in the dog play area. A short stroll down a trail there leads to an elevated viewing platform along the Warrenton Waterfront Trail, with 180-degree views from the mouth of the Columbia to Astoria.

Looking for an even more unique view, or a beach bonfire? Drive out to the northwestern tip of Oregon at the end of Clatsop Spit in Fort Stevens State Park. Hang a left at Parking Lot C to the South Jetty viewing tower, where one can take in the Pacific and Columbia in one glance.

Go even farther to Parking Lot D, where a small hook of land at the end of the spit includes a circular beach directly next to the ship traffic. A short hike from the parking lot is also a wildlife viewing area looking out over Trestle Bay.

s

•S

Lewis and Clark National Historical Park EXPLORE the fort HIKE the forest PADDLE the river Fort Clatsop Visitor Center Open Daily 9am-5pm Exhibits & Movies  Books & Gifts 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd., Astoria, OR 97103

503-861-2471  NPS.gov/LEWI

Ch

k Stea

o w de

r

Bre ak

er inn

• Lunch • t s D fa

eafo

• d a Sal

od • Serving the Oregon Coast Since 1961.

Breakfast Served Anytime! Or try our delicious chowder, soups, gourmet burgers and sandwiches, seafood and more.

Seaside

323 Broadway 738-7234 (Open 7 Days)

Cannon Beach 223 S. Hemlock 436-2851 (7am-3pm Daily)

Astoria

146 W. Bond 325-3144 (Open 7 Days)

DiscoverOurCoast.com

63

HISTORY & HERITAGE

OUR PICKS

Angora Hiking Club

Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum

Astoria, Oregon

Ilwaco, Washington

By Hailey Hoffman

By Alyssa Evans

On Independence Day in 1920, a group of Clatsop County locals climbed to the top of Saddle Mountain, where they then founded the Angora Hiking Club. One hundred years later, locals continue to explore the miles of trails spanning the county with friends, family and community members as part of the very same club.

The club ultimately seeks to explore the expansive beaches and rolling hills found in this scenic corner of the United States. The club’s constitution, as written in 1920, states, “There is power in Nature, speaking through the sublimity of her illimitable glories which proclaims that deathless spirit of Liberty.”

Weather permitting, the club organizes several hikes and walks each month of varying difficulty to accommodate different skill and ability levels.

Club members do a little bit of everything from trekking up Neahkahnie Mountain to wandering through Fort Stevens State Park with park rangers. Each hike has a designated leader who organizes transportation, checks on road and trail conditions and ensures general safety while outdoors. The club currently has over 70 members who pay just $10 a year to support the organization.

In honor of the club’s 100th year, the group has several celebration hikes planned, including a summit of Saddle Mountain just as they did 100 years before.

All information regarding future hikes, membership and club policies can be found online at angorahikingclub.org or on their Facebook page.

Nestled in the small town of Ilwaco is the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum. The museum has been a mainstay for Pacific County residents and visitors alike since its humble beginnings, which occurred in the early 1980s when then-Ilwaco City Council member Noreen Robinson came up with the museum’s concept over breakfast with fellow residents.

Since its opening, the museum has acquired over 23,000 artifacts for viewing. Permanent exhibits feature important pieces of the Long Beach Peninsula’s past with topics such as cranberry harvesting, maritime culture and the Chinook Indian Nation’s local presence. Touring and local exhibits are also shown at the museum, showcasing features like local students’ art and other historical topics relevant to the Long Beach Peninsula.

In addition to its exhibits, the museum’s staff, led by executive director Betsy Millard, are always available. Staff members can answer just about any question a visitor has regarding local history. During the rare times they don’t have an answer, they’re ready and willing to find the information in question. Museum staff are also available to help visitors do their own research.

Museum archives are available for viewing by appointment. The Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Museum admission costs $5 for adults, $4 for seniors 55 years and older, $2.50 for children ages 12 to 18. Admission is free for children under age 12. Thursday admission is free for all ages.

64

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Traditions. Cultures. Artifacts. Icons.

Fort Stevens State Park

Nehalem Valley Historical Society

Warrenton, Oregon

Manzanita, Oregon

By Alyssa Evans

By Katherine Lacaze

Walk through Fort Stevens State Park and you are literally walking back in time.

Cannons, massive cement artillery batteries and breathtaking sights are impossible to ignore throughout the massive park, which takes up more than 4,000 square feet. Personality brims at each inch of the park, as much of the Oregon Coast’s military history lies within the park’s boundaries.

The park takes its visitors back to the early 1860s, when Fort Stevens first became active. The fort was used as a military base starting in the Civil War, and kept active through World War II. In 1942, Fort Stevens became home to the only World War II attack on a mainland U.S. military base. The Japanese submarine I-25 fired at Fort Stevens around midnight on June 21, more than half a year before the country would later bomb Pearl Harbor.

The attack on Fort Stevens that June night proved unsuccessful, as Fort Stevens soldiers didn’t fire back. The fort and the Oregon Coast were left safe until air raids in September 1942 focused in on Brookings.

While Fort Stevens hasn’t been used as an active military base since World War II ended, its impact on Oregon’s coastal community has withstood the decades since the war. Most of the fort is available for visitors to see and learn, alongside the views that draw thousands of visitors to the coast annually.

In addition to the park’s military bases, visitors can enjoy beaches, the Wreck of the Peter Iredale, camping and hiking options. The park is open to visitors and campers year-round.

The Nehalem Valley Historical Society is dedicated to preserving the rich cultural heritage of of Manzanita, Wheeler and Nehalem.

Thanks to the efforts of devoted volunteers, the historical society manages a public archive that also doubles as a museum featuring a small array of exhibits on events, people and legends associated with the Nehalem Valley.

To visit the museum, located below the historic Pine Grove Community House at 225 Laneda Ave. in Manzanita, visitors must stop by from 1 to 4 p.m. Saturdays or call to make an appointment.

Originally, the society’s intent was to collect and archive historical artifacts and documents to “make sure it didn’t turn into garbage,” vice president Tom Campbell said. Eventually, members decided if they were going to maintain and preserve the items, they should make them available to the public.

The current collection includes an exhibit on the famous Beeswax Wreck. In the late 1600s, the Santo Cristo de Burgos, a Spanish galleon that was part of the trade from Manila to Acapulco, is believed to have wrecked in the vicinity of Nehalem Bay. Although the wreck itself is as yet undiscovered, bits and pieces of beeswax have been recovered.

According to Campbell, some of the beeswax on display at the historical society’s museum includes shipper’s marks and is “fascinating to look at.”

Other exhibits address local historians’ belief that Sir Francis Drake stopped in the area for ship repairs in the 1570s while circumnavigating the West Coast.

In addition to curating the museum, the historical society is involved in an ongoing oral-history project and maintaining and enhancing the Nehalem American Legion Cemetery. In 2020, they are also facilitating educational and historical lectures. “If we’re not holding programs and trying to tell people about our local history, we’re not fulfilling our mission,” Campbell said.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

65

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Treasures

of the

Sea

COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM OFFERS HISTORY, WORKSHOPS AND CONNECTION TO THE NORTHWEST Words: Emily Lindblom • Images: Hailey Hoffman and Emily Lindblom

The Columbia River Maritime Museum brings thousands of visitors from all over the world to Astoria each year. It attracts people of all ages and interests with its exhibits about fishing, rescues in dramatic storms, tours of the Lightship Columbia and more.

Bruce Jones, deputy director of the museum, said he often hears visitors say they aren't normally museum people, but they loved the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

“They got to go on the Lightship, they got to see Coast Guard rescues, they got to see exciting videos from the Columbia River Bar Pilots and boats, and they just had a great time,” Jones said. “So whether you’re a museum person or not, whether you like maritime stuff or not, you will love the Columbia River Maritime Museum.”

Jeff Smith, the museum’s curator, said the museum's exhibits range from Coast Guard and rescue missions to the types of fishing boats that are used in the Columbia.

“Our other galleries feature early exploration,” Smith said. “People can learn about the origins of Oregon and how it came to be American territory rather than British.”

Guests can also learn about the impact that weather has on mariners at the “Science of Storms” exhibit, and they can learn about the challenges that mariners face trying to navigate in and out of the mouth of the river in the exhibit, “Crossing the Bar.”

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Clockwise from top: The new pond at the Columbia River Maritime Museum shines brightly at night with blue lights. The pond will be used for sail boats where visitors can bring their own or rent some from the museum. A model boat designed to look like the local fishing vessel, the Pacific Conquest, zips around the new pond outside the Barbey Maritime Center. The Barbey Maritime Center, inside the former Astoria Train Depot, features spaces for lectures, classes and boat making workshops.

THE BARBEY MARITIME CENTER The museum also includes the Barbey Maritime Center, located inside a former railroad depot.

As an event center, it hosts workshops about maritime crafts and trades, including the construction of small boats.

Sam Johnson, executive director, said the workshops teach participants about practices that are important to maintain. “It is really a lot of fun to see people working with carving of Native American artifacts and building boats and things like that,� Johnson said.

There are also classes about basket weaving, kayak building, restoring old boats for the museum collections and more.

In front of the Barbey Maritime Center sits a newly constructed model boat pond. Visitors are welcome to bring their own model sailboats to race across the water.

Education director Nate Sandel added that people can also rent model sailboats from the center or take a class to learn how to build their own model sailboats to use at the pond. He also teaches students grades two through eight the skills and science of sailing.

68

Our Coast Magazine 2020

a newly constructed model boat pond sits In front of the Barbey Maritime Center. Visitors can bring model sailboats to race across the water.

The Lightship Columbia is docked outside the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

THE LIGHTSHIP COLUMBIA The pilot boat Peacock sits outside the Columbia River Maritime Museum.

Another attraction is the the Lightship Columbia, a national historic landmark that was used as a type of lighthouse to let sailors know they were getting close to the mouth of the Columbia River. Museum guests can hop onboard the vessel to explore the lightship for themselves where they'll see where sailors would cook, eat, sleep and work.

School groups can even reserve the lightship to spend the night and get a taste of what life was like on a floating lighthouse.

THE PILOT BOAT PEACOCK A red and green boat, known as the pilot boat Peacock, is displayed outside the Barbey Maritime Center.

The Columbia River Bar is known to be one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world, as more than 2,000 ships have wrecked there since the 1800s. So the Peacock was meant to help boats navigate the bar in extreme weather conditions.

The boat was built in 1964 and was used to bring bar pilots across the Columbia River bar to and from commercial ships and ports thousands of times over 33 years.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

69

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Clockwise from top left: The museum features the history of canning and fishing on the Columbia River. A child explores an interactive exhibit at the maritime museum. An exhibit shows items used and found on ships and by fishermen. The maritime museum features a variety of exhibits focusing on the history and environment of the Pacific Northwest. A wooden sailboat inside the maritime museum.

70

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Clockwise from top left: An exhibit detailing ‘The Great River of the West.’ An exhibit features a fisherman clubbing fish on a boat. Visitors look at boats docked near the maritime museum on the Columbia River through large glass windows.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

71

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Warrenton Grade School’s miniboat, part of Columbia River Maritime Museum’s education program, turns quickly with the push of the wind during a test run on the Columbia River.

EDUCATION & RESEARCH The museum offers a variety of ways to connect with students, including field trips for kindergarten through 12th grade, and two outreach programs. One outreach program will send a trained educator to a school to give a hands-on presentation.

Sandel will visit areas schools every week during the school and help students build 5-foot-long sailboats with G.P.S. monitors that the students launch into the Pacific Ocean.

The boats, built this year by students from Warrenton Grade School, Columbia City Elementary School and Wy’east Middle School, launched by the Columbia River Bar Pilots and the U.S. Coast Guard cutter Steadfast, were released into the ocean at the museum’s Miniboat Summit in January.

The GPS-equipped miniboats will be tracked by the museum as they journey to Japan over the coming months as part of a cultural exchange with the country. In late November, three schools in Japan launched their own fleet of miniboats destined for the U.S. In 2018, the museum educated more than 15,000 students in the Pacific Northwest between the outreach programs and field trips.

Those students were some of about 118,000 people who visited the museum in 2018, according to Jones.

Jones added guests can buy all sorts of maritime memorabilia, clothing and books at the museum's gift shop, or catch a movie in the 3-D theater.

The theater shows two movies rotating throughout the day, so visitors can watch one or the other, or both.

“We have this amazing 44-foot Coast Guard lifeboat that actually used to do search and rescue missions on the Columbia River Bar,”Jones said.

72

Our Coast Magazine 2020

“And now we have it mounted permanently in the museum at a 45-degree angle with a diorama of waves and victims being saved.”

The museum’s research library is also open to researchers and members of the public, offering its collection of books, photographs and historical records.

The museum has been teaching people about coastal life since an artist named Rolf Klep founded it in 1962. Originally located in the courthouse that now houses the Clatsop County Historical Society, the museum moved to the waterfront in 1985.

“It’s been quite successful and as they say, location, location, location,” Johnson said. “We have one of the premium locations of any maritime museum in the United States. It's a wonderful place.”

Columbia River Maritime Museum 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Admission is $14 adults 18 years and older; seniors 65 and older $12; children 6-17 $5 and children under 6 and active duty military are free. SNAP recipients are $3 per person for up to four people. crmm.org

ZIP LINE TOURS LUNCH & DINNER OPEN 7 DAYS 11:30am-9pm

FULL BAR

ENJOY A TOUR OF 8 ZIP LINES IN A BEAUTIFUL SETTING!

Imogen Gallery

ip

N-S

Zip-

LUNCH SERVED DAILY

A Contempory Art Gallery With A Broad Outlook

92111 HIGHLIFE ROAD WARRENTON, OREGON

1149 Commercial Street 503.325.9001 • fulios.com

240 11th Street Astoria, Or 503.468.0620 imogengallery.com

503.861.9875 Reservations Required highlife-adventures.com

Come Join Us!

Come and experience reasonable prices with epic views

One of the most unique Cafes in the world. Located on the Columbia River in the West’s oldest cannery building; the historic Hanthorn Cannery at the end of Pier 39

Friendly services • High quality espresso Sumptuous fresh pastries Unique breakfasts and lunches

Astoria Crest Motel sits on nearly three acres, overlooking the Mighty Columbia River.

We feature “Epic” views, continental breakfast, meeting space for events up to 50, meal functions to 32 and outdoor space that can expand to even larger groups.

“oooooh...” *

*

“aaaaah...” *

- typical reaction to our riverside dining area.

Monday -Thursday 7am to 4pm • Friday 7am - 5pm Saturday 8am - 5pm • Sunday 8am - 5pm 5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-3141 • 800-421-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com reservations@astoriacrestmotel.com

503.436.0208 239 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach

100 39th Street #2, Astoria, Oregon 503.325.6900 TheCoffeeGirl.Com

DiscoverOurCoast.com

73

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Ripe

HISTORY How cranberries became a coastal fixture on the Washington and Oregon coasts Words: Alyssa Evans • Images: Hailey Hoffman

Take a drive along the Long Beach Peninsula and you are bound to see hundreds of bright-red cranberries.

The fruit, known for its bright color and bitter taste, is one of the North Coast’s most popular exports. Yet, this hasn’t always been the case.

For several years, cranberry harvesting struggled to take off. Farmers were left frustrated until the help of a college student in the early 1920s. Since the student’s arrival, the cranberry industry steadily grew to what it is today.

Workers at CranMac Farms push the floating berries to a conveyor belt that deposits them into a truck.

74

Our Coast Magazine 2020

DiscoverOurCoast.com

75

HISTORY & HERITAGE Cranberries are harvested annually in the fields next to the Cranberry Museum in Long Beach.

The Cape Cod of the Pacific Northwest On the West Coast, cranberries are harvested in British Columbia, Washington state and Oregon. In Washington, bogs color the Long Beach Peninsula and Grays Harbor locales. Oregon bogs are found in Clatsop County near Gearhart and southern Oregon.

“It’s such a unique crop. It’s only grown in certain parts of the country, where there’s sandy soil. That’s really what you need, and cool ocean nights,” said Paula (Saunders) Reagor, a Long Beach Cranberry Museum employee.

The fruit is also grown in Massachusetts, Wisconsin, New Jersey, Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia.

“If you were to look at a map, all of the cranberries in the states are on the same latitude,” Reagor said.

Cranberries came to the Long Beach Peninsula in 1852 when James C. Swan of Massachusetts purchased land near Bone River, which lies along the Willapa Hills. Swan’s bog was unsuccessful and short-lived, according to the Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation’s book “Pacific Coast Cranberries: The Cranberry Industry in Pacific County.”

In the 1880s, the peninsula saw its first successful cranberry bog after Anthony Chabot, 76

Our Coast Magazine 2020

also from Massachusetts, started a bog. Chabot wasn’t experienced with cranberry harvesting and relied on help from family members and employees.

“He was astonished at how much the peninsula resembles Cape Cod,” Reagor said.

Cranberries are such a unique crop. They’re only grown in certain parts of the country, where there’s sandy soil. That’s really what you need, and cool ocean nights.

Chabot’s bog lasted about 10 years, until his nephew, Robert Chabot, started a bog in Grays Harbor County. Robert Chabot had been an incremental force with his uncle’s bog. He quickly found success in Grays Harbor.

Robert Chabot’s bog was the first in Washington state not located on the peninsula.

It’d be about 20 years until cranberry harvesting picked up for peninsula farmers.

In 1910, syndicates advertising farmland led to many new bog owners. The owners struggled until the 1920s, when Daniel “D.J.” Crowley arrived to help farmers.

Crowley was sent to the peninsula by the State College of Washington, now known as Washington State University. The college assigned Crowley to investigate problems cranberry farmers faced on the Washington coast.

At the time, Crowley was a candidate for a bachelor of science degree in plant pathology.

“He really was the one who turned it around for the farmers,” Reagor said. “He went from bog to bog, working with each farmer.”

Through Crowley’s studies, he was able to not only earn his degree, but help the cranberry farming industry nationwide.

How cranberry farming has grown Blueberries, elderberries and cranberries are the only berries native to North America.

West Coast farmers produce about 1 million 100-pound barrels of cranberries annually, which is about 25% of the nation’s total crop. British Columbia produces the most cranberries each year, followed by Oregon, then Washington.

When Crowley was assigned to research Long Beach’s cranberry bogs in the 1920s, farmers were losing about 40% of the crop to diseases and insects. His research solved many of the farmers’ problems.

“They didn’t even have picker machines,” said Melinda Crowley, Cranberry Museum director and Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation board member. “They did everything on their knees and by hand.”

Melinda Crowley is the daughter-in-law of D.J. Crowley. She married his son, Lee, in 1992.

Until the 1940s, growers on the Washington coast used dry cranberry harvesting. During the 40s, most cranberry farmers on the Long Beach Peninsula transitioned to wet harvesting, which requires farmers to flood their bogs and cradle the berries using a large tool called a boom. The boom is pulled through the bog and captures berries as farmers bring it toward a corner of the bog.

During the 1940s and 50s, cranberry farmers got creative. In the late 1950s, J. M. Furford of Grayland invented a picking machine similar to lawn mowers for dry harvesting. Vacuums were also a popular harvesting tool.

Wet harvesters used flailers, which was similar to Furford’s invention. Scoops and nets were also used by wet harvesters.

Around the same time, farmers started working with Ocean Spray, an agricultural cooperative.

“Because Ocean Spray was here and the need for cranberries was here, the growers had to be innovative and come up with ways for getting more crops harvested,” Melinda Crowley said. “That’s when they developed the floating process, and gas pickers were developed.”

A farmer rides a harvest harrow through the bogs to release the berries from the stems.

Ocean Spray sells a variety of cranberry products like juices, jellies and Craisins.

“Most everyone sells to Ocean Spray,” Reagor said. “They make the products and do the marketing.”

Ardell and Malcom McPhail are Ocean Spray’s biggest contributor on the peninsula. The couple purchased their first bog in the 1980s, and have since expanded to own about 50 acres and operate their business, CranMac Farms.

“We need Ocean Spray to come up with some new products,” Ardell McPhail said.

“Craisins were huge. That helped us a lot.”

The McPhails produce about 25% of the peninsula’s cranberries, and 12% of Washington state’s. Their son Steve also owns a local farm, bringing the McPhails’ total contribution to be about 30% of the peninsula’s berries.

Thousands of berries fall into large crates on a truck.

Modern challenges

Like cranberry farmers of previous decades, modern farmers have to manage pests and weeds. Farmers use fungicides, herbicides and insecticides to protect their berries.

“People think you’ve got all these pesticides and you’re throwing everything out on the berries. When you know how much things cost, you’re not going to be throwing a whole bunch of stuff out,” Ardell McPhail said. “With all this dampness, you need to use something.”

Farmers also have to pay attention to temperature changes. If the temperature gets too cold, berries may freeze. And vice versa, on sunny, warm days, farmers have to take advantage of the weather so they can prune their plants.

“A lot of being a successful cranberry farmer has to do with timing, being vigilant and taking care of your responsibilities,” Malcom McPhail said.

“Especially timing,” Ardell McPhail added.

Another major challenge facing farmers today is cost.

“Circumstances right now are not that good from the standpoint of the price for cranberries and the cost of producing cranberries,” Ardell McPhail said. “It’s a pretty tight situation. We almost break even.”

The main cause behind the cost issues are overproduction and labor costs.

“Most everybody knows that these are not good economic times for cranberry farmers.

Prices are down,” Malcom McPhail said.

“Prices go up and down. That’s farming. We’re down a bit.”

DiscoverOurCoast.com

77

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation The Long Beach research station was created and led by D.J. Crowley. His research, and that of following directors Charles Doughty, Azmi Shawa and Kim Patten, has been used nationwide.

Crowley changed the industry in the 1940s after farmers adopted his suggestion to use sprinklers. Doughty was known for managing a fungus that took over cranberry twigs. Shawa and Patten made strides with weed control.

The Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation formed in 1992 when Washington State University closed the Long Beach research station.

“They wanted to move the station to Mount Vernon,” Melinda Crowley said. “Well, the growers said ‘You can’t do that. We don’t have cranberries up there. We need to research here.’”

In response to the closure, the foundation, which is made up mostly by farmers and volunteers, purchased the station and its surrounding land.

“Our main goal is to create educated consumers. It’s necessary for the industry and that’s what we’re here for,” Melinda Crowley said.

Since the foundation’s purchase, the research station has stayed open through volunteers’ efforts. Washington State University funds the salaries of the research station’s employees.

“Things have gotten more restrictive, complicated and expensive on how to farm. It’s not only cranberries, it’s everywhere,” Melinda Crowley said. “That’s why we have WSU here; to help us get through the changes. We need WSU.” In 1993, the foundation opened the Long Beach Cranberry Museum in 1993.

The museum, which is free to visit, shows the peninsula’s history of cranberry harvesting through photos and equipment.

The museum is open daily from April to mid-December.

“What’s going to happen in the future? Our education dictates where we’re going. That’s what the foundation is all about,” Melinda Crowley said. “We’re here to help growers grow a better cranberry, and so the public can become better educated.”

In addition to the museum, there is a gift shop that features cranberry products such as fresh berries, jams, ice cream, books and sweatshirts. Gift shop proceeds help keep the museum open.

Outside the museum, visitors can take self-guided tours along cranberry bogs. During the peninsula’s annual Cranberrian Fair, visitors can watch farmers harvest in the bogs.

In 2020, the fair will celebrate its 100th year.

“There wasn’t a festival during the Depression and World War II. It was hard times then,” Reagor said.

Since World War II, the festival has been in full swing.

The fair is held the second weekend of October.

“If I didn’t have the right people in the gift shop and the museum, it wouldn’t work,” Melinda Crowley said. “They’re interested. It’s not just a job for them. They’ve taken it on as their own business. It’s part of their lives, which is wonderful.”

78

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Kim Patten stands knee-deep in a cranberry bog while pushing berries.

Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation

Cranberry Museum & Gift Shop Featuring Cranberry Wines & Cougar Gold Cheese

NOW OPEN Fridays & Saturdays 10am - 4pm until April 1st

W PAC E CA N K SEA FRE S FORFOOD H RID TH EH E OM E!

OPEN DAILY 10am - 5pm April through December

Enjoy a self-guided tour through the Demonstration Farm during daylight hours!

Come to the Harvest Fair October 10th & 11th, 9am -5pm

(360) 642-5553

2907 Pioneer Road Long Beach, WA cranberries@willapabay.org www.cranberrymuseum.com

SOUL, InSPIRED

OF SEASIDE

FRESH SEAFOOD MARKET 738-2722 • 800-529-2722

Authentic Fish & Chips Chowder Burgers

1800 S. Roosevelt on Hwy 101 www.bellbuoyofseaside.com

The

Ship Inn to Ship Out! 92351 Lewis and Clark Rd, Astoria

BELLBUOY

BUOY’S BEST

FISH HOUSE

WWW.TRAVELASToRIA.CoM

HALIBUT FISH & CHIPS 503-738-6348

JEWELRY • HOME DECOR • CARDS ORNAMENTS • SANTAS

Visit our store and shop where it’s

CHRISTMAS ALL YEAR LONG THINK LOCAL! SHOP LOCAL

405 Broadway in Seaside • 503.738.8854

Located inside the Pig ‘n Pancake • heronsnestgifts.com

DiscoverOurCoast.com

79

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Strong Women

The fight for Oregon women’s suffrage Words: Marianne Monson Images courtesy: Library of Congress

“Then blow ye winds a-ho—a voting we will go; We’ll stay no more on the barren shore, But hand in hand with brothers band, We’ll guide the Ship of State Across the raging main Of Governmental seas, my friends, To meet our coming fate.”

-a suffrage song,

By Abigail Scott Duniway

T

he passage of the 19th amendment in August 1920 ended a decades long struggle to bring voting rights to all Americans regardless of gender.

Though racial inequalities for minority women would remain, the extension of the ballot to women moved the nation toward greater political equality, exonerating forward-thinking pioneers who had braved public scorn to bring about a momentous shift in thinking.

While the most commonly repeated narrative revolves around East Coast figures such as Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Ida B. Wells and Susan B. Anthony, in the West, the fight for suffrage evolved with a separate roster of heroes and villains, several of whom have surprising ties to the Pacific Northwest.

Oregon became the final western state to extend the vote to women in November 1912.

Flush with the victory, Portland-based suffragist 80

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Abigail Scott Duniway signing Oregon’s Equal Suffrage Proclamation in 1912.

Esther Pohl Lovejoy said of the success: “It was pre-eminently a campaign of young women, impatient of leadership, and they worked just about as they liked — and that is how they will vote.” While it is true that voices of the young finally carried the political initiative, the movement had been maintained for four decades by women who worked tirelessly for the cause. Oregon failed to pass suffrage five times, debating the issue by ballot more than any other state.

Abigail Scott Duniway founded the Oregon Equal Suffrage Association in 1871.

In the same year, she departed on a lecture tour of the region with Susan B. Anthony.

Abigail Scott Duniway entered the fray as a young mother, and was 78 years old by the time it passed. Duniway had immigrated to Oregon by wagon while a teenager, and kept a copious journal of the journey. Her mother died en route, weakened by a rapid succession of childbirths.

With a voracious appetite for learning, Duniway resented the advanced educational opportunities offered to her younger brother, Harvey. After marrying and having six children of her own, she opened a millinery shop where she provided a sympathetic ear for women who found themselves in dire straits due to laws rendering them incapable of owning property, obtaining loans or retaining custody due to their gender.

Realizing things would never change until women had political power, Duniway founded the Oregon Equal Suffrage Association in 1871.

In the same year, she departed on a lecture tour of the region with Susan B. Anthony. The women braved vehement opposition, which Duniway stubbornly shrugged off. Once in response to being hit in the head with an egg, she wiped it away and insisted it was good for the hair. Back in Portland, Duniway started The New Northwest, a newspaper devoted to women’s rights. Primary opposition hailed from The Oregonian, whose editor was none other than Abigail’s little brother, Harvey Scott.

Duniway coordinated with the Astoria Women’s Suffrage Club and delivered speeches in the area. In 1878 in Astoria’s First Presbyterian Church, Duniway promised: “The present dissatisfaction throughout the nation concerning the existing order of things in the political world shows plainly to the analytical thinker that this government of the United States, which men call a republic, but which is, in reality, an aristocracy of sex, this government of one-half of the people by the other half of the people, is on the eve of an important change.”

Duniway could not have imagined the change which she foresaw was still decades in the future.

Thirty years after Duniway was born, Esther Pohl Lovejoy began life in a logging camp in Seabeck, Washington. The family moved to Portland, where Lovejoy was inspired by early Oregon doctors like Bethenia Owens-Adair to study medicine. Working at a department store to pay her way, Lovejoy became the first female doctor to graduate from University of Oregon, earning the highest aggregate score of her class in anatomy, physiology and chemistry. Lovejoy married her classmate shortly after graduation.

A progressive Portland mayor appointed her to the Portland Board of Health. By 1909 she had become the first woman to lead a health bureau in a major U.S. city.

Suffragist Esther Pohl Lovejoy.

As Duniway edged into her seventies, Lovejoy stepped in to play a significant role in the 1912 Oregon suffrage campaign. With the collaborative thinking of a younger generation, Lovejoy worked with the newly formed Colored Women’s Equal Suffrage Association organized by Hattie Redmond and the Chinese American Women Suffrage Society presided over by Dr. Mrs. S.K. Chan. Lovejoy unified suffrage supporters from varied racial and cultural backgrounds, working closely with both professional and wage-earning women

as well. The spirit of collaborative activism motivated Lovejoy to form the Everybody’s Equal Suffrage League of Portland.

As incomprehensible to modern readers as opposition may seem, surrounding states passed suffrage laws — Idaho in 1896, Washington in 1910, and California in 1911 — while powerful dissenting voices in Oregon advanced concerns over the question of prohibition. Liquor lobbies and businesses used legal and illegal strategies to persuade their constituents, fearing that women voters would soon enact prohibition laws.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

81

HISTORY & HERITAGE Other dissenters feared voting women would destabilize families and tear at the moral fabric of society. In a 1908 statement eerily reminiscent of more recent opposition to same sex marriages, The Albany Association claimed the issue: “Threatens the home, threatens the sacredness of the marriage tie, threatens the church and undermines the foundation of our great Republic.” Some leaders even claimed that politics would coarsen women and leave them unfit to rear children.

The issue divided more families than just the Scotts. In Astoria, Nellie Flavel, independent woman that she was, supported the franchise, while her sister-in-law, Mrs. George Flavel signed a petition published in The Oregonian opposing it.

In an editorial dated June 10, 1900 a Mrs. M.C. Bell opined that: “There were women, hitherto harmless, gentle and refined who seemed suddenly metamorphosed” by the debate. If women entered national politics, she cautioned, “secret conferences would develop small leaks” that would jeopardize state interests. Bell imagined “such tea-drinkings and gossipy confidences, as to the flirty ways of Mrs. Congressman Smith’s husband and the presuming, haughty manner of Mrs. Senator Brown.” She concluded: “to be compelled to

Oregon actress Margaret Howe participating in a 1913 suffrage parade in Washington, D.C.

82

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Esther Pohl Lovejoy’s suffrage wagon in the June 1912 Portland Rose Parade.

PHOTO COURTESY AMY KHEDOURI

leave the cradle, the tub, or the club to go and vote, would be a real hardship.” Bell’s editorial appeared in The Sunday Oregonian alongside an article advocating courses in millinery guaranteed to transform a “nervous, hysterical wife into a more rational and companionable being.” One can almost hear the voice of the editor speaking between these columns, and it’s little wonder Abigail Scott Duniway’s disputes with her brother Harvey were legendary.

In spite of such opposition, the tide of public opinion did invariably turn, and when it did, Duniway was asked to sign the state’s suffrage proclamation.

Women such as Mary Strong Kinney were ready to take full advantage of the new opportunity.

Born between Duniway and Lovejoy, Kinney received degrees from Willamette University. She married and had four sons, but when her husband died in 1898, she continued to manage the family sawmill while raising her boys. After some time she sold the mill and relocated her family to Astoria, where she joined the battle for the ballot, eventually becoming president of Astoria Women’s Suffrage Club.

After suffrage passed in 1912, Kinney worked with the Astoria Women’s Civic Club to sponsor female candidates and help women exercise their newfound political freedoms. They also supported the continuing national efforts.

In 1920, Pohl Lovejoy ran for Congress in Oregon’s 3rd District. Though she didn’t win, she earned an impressive 44% of the vote before leaving to work with the Red Cross in France, ultimately writing a book detailing the impact of World War I on women.

Kinney also ran in the 1920 election and was successfully elected to represent Clatsop County in the Oregon House of Representatives, serving as the only woman in either house that year. She made women’s right to serve on court juries the central focus of her time in office, and was elected to the state Senate where she served in the 1923 and 1925 legislative sessions. Oregon Voter magazine noted that her “business experience was so broad that she had a ready comprehension of legislative problems” and that she “bore herself with distinction and dignity.”

One hundred years ago, a full 70 years after the Seneca Falls Convention, U.S. women entered politics in full force at last, ushering in a basic redefinition of those entitled to “life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.” In many ways their efforts reach full fruition in 2020, when more women than ever before are entering the political arena. Lovejoy supported universal suffrage “simply because it is right… every honest, intelligent, and sane person who has considered the subject carefully is a suffragist.”

AERIAL CHALLENGE COURSE

Art Cards • Artisan Crafts • Gallery

904 Commercial St • Astoria 503.325.5548

ENJOY THE THRILL OF MANEUVERING THROUGH A VARIETY OF CHALLENGING ELEMENTS HIGH ABOVE THE GROUND. URSE IS THE CO FOR A LE SUITAB GE OF AN WIDE R ILITIES AB & S AGE FOR G FUN IN R E F F O ILY! M A F ILE THE WH

Unique Sterling Silver Jewelry

2520 S. ROOSEVELT DR. SEASIDE, OREGON

503.717.5444

1296 DUANE STREET ASTORIA

503.468.0308

for Men & Women

Crystals & Gemstones from around the world

Gifts for the Imaginative Soul

HighLifeAdventurePark.com

DiscoverOurCoast.com

83

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Quietly passionate Finn Fest offers look at Finnish life on the Columbia River

E

Words: Matt Winters • Images: Our Coast Magazine

lsewhere in the United States it’s uncommon to meet anyone with Finnish ancestry. Spend a few days around the lower Columbia River communities of Astoria, Ilwaco and Naselle, and you’ll bump into dozens of them.

Surnames like Wirkkala, Niemi, Haataja, Wiitala, Saari, Raistakka and Pakenen abound. All possess a trait Finns call “sisu,” defined as courage, grit, determination and bravery in the face of obstacles and challenges. Back around 1900, when fully a sixth of Astoria residents were first-generation Finnish immigrants, this quiet but tenacious will to survive qualified them for the toughest jobs on raging waters and in primeval forests.

Their dedication to hard work, combined with a deeply ingrained love of our region’s outdoors, makes Finnish-Americans one of the most powerful elements of Columbia River society.

They have come to embody what it means to live and thrive in the coastal Pacific Northwest.

84

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Discover Finns

How can you meet them and get to experience some of their singular culture?

Maximize your chances by attending the Finnish-American Folk Festival in Naselle.

Held in even-numbered years, the 2020 Finn Fest is planned July 24-26, with most events centered on Saturday, July 25. Started on a shoestring in 1982, Finn Fest attracted 2,000 attendees its first year. It remains true to its origins, feeling more like a multifamily reunion than any sort of tourist attraction.

Everyone is welcome, but expect relaxation rather than excitement.

Though most aren’t quite as stoic as they like to put on, Finnish ancestry does seem to confer an attitude of fortitude rooted in the endless forests of their homeland between Scandinavia and Russia. Finns revel in a national mystique that prefers deep feelings quietly expressed, in contrast to superficial cheerfulness.

Varpu Poyry, who blogs about all things Finnish at herfinland.com, offers these observations about making Finn friends: “Finns don’t small talk. If you talk and hope that a Finn would continue the topic naturally … Well, that happens once in a blue moon. Ask preferably open-ended questions. They require answers of more than just one word. Usually, open-ended questions start with What, How, Why. If you get a ‘Yes’ or ‘No’ as a reply, don’t get discouraged.

In Finnish, it’s normal and polite.”

This might boil down to something like “there’s nothing fake about Finns.” The same is true of our local Finn Fest. It’s not put on to impress or to happily fleece tourists. It’s about American Finns and the traditions they have transplanted to this distant shore. Sincere interest in Finn folklore and delicious food is welcome. But it won’t be a wild or fancy time.

Anything showy is antithetical to the Finnish way. Comfort and practicality rule. As Varpu writes, “There is an old Finnish saying, ‘Only ugly people need to dress up’ (‘Vain rumat ne vaatteilla koreilee,’ in Finnish), which might explain a bit how fashion was regarded here back in the day.”

There’s nothing dressed up about Finn Fest. Its mission is simple. Long-time organizer Barb Swanson summarizes it: “The main purpose of the Finnish American Folk Festival is to keep alive and carry on the Finnish-American traditions, customs and language of the early settlers of the NaselleGrays River Valley. We strive to preserve our Finnish/American culture and heritage while learning more about the history and the Finnish connections.”

Attend, and you’ll learn, too.

Girls perform a maypole dance at Finn Fest.

Welcome to Finnburgh

Naselle is a widely dispersed village in which tidy homes are dotted like Christmas lights for miles along Washington State Routes 4 and 401 about a 20-minute drive from Astoria. Turn right at the Washington end of the Astoria Bridge and you’ll soon be there.

The festival centers around the Naselle school complex on the main (and basically only) intersection in town.

Finns began arriving in this area in the late 19th century as economic and political instability roiled northern Europe. In effect a Russian colony at the time, Finland and its people found themselves at the whim of a remote aristocracy that cared nothing about whether they lived or died. Many fled to America, tending to settle together in communities with shared family ties and social and religious affiliations. Although Finland gained independence in 1917, partially as a consequence of the Russian Revolution, outmigration continued as Finns learned of the opportunities for jobs and inexpensive land in places like Naselle.

Even in modern times, the Finnish language is a comfortable way of communicating for some in Naselle and surrounding communities.

Finnish voices can sometimes still be heard bubbling along the Naselle River when folks walk along in a quest for fat salmon and other migratory fish. An ancient linguistic artifact, there’s something in those inexplicable syllables that echoes the vast woodlands and self-sufficient farms of far northern Europe.

Naselle — adapted by pioneer settlers from a local Indian name and pronounced “Nay-Sal” — had a shot at fame last year with publication of the best-selling novel “Deep River” by Karl Marlantes. Marlantes explained to a local audience in January that his New York publishers simply couldn’t be expected to go for a book titled “Naselle,” with its close resemblance to nasal. So he redubbed it Deep River for literary purposes.

Finns began arriving in this area in the late 19th century as economic and political instability roiled northern Europe.

Nevertheless, Marlentes’ work has garnered as close to a rapturous reception as Finns are capable of conferring. Often visiting the Finn side of his relations in Naselle as a boy, the author absorbed the Finn migrant ethos of diligent work, courage and striving for a better life. Locals hardily endorse the accuracy and spirit of the book, a fine reminder of the sacrifices that created today’s cozy Naselle.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

85

HISTORY & HERITAGE

Of gods and radicals Although those who live around the Columbia estuary inevitably know Finns of every political persuasion — and get used to random extra vowels and consonants in surnames — it is the radical factions of the first decades of the 20th century that get the most attention from historians and Marlantes.

The Astorian Suomalainen Sosialisti Klubi, or Astoria Finnish Socialist Club, is a focal point in fiction, as it was in real life. There were once enough Finnish lefties to merit an entire history, “Finnish Radicals in Astoria, Oregon 1904-1940.”

Finns of every viewpoint were among the most visible of our region’s immigrant populations, which also included Swedes, Danes, Norwegians, English, Chinese, Japanese, Filipinos, Yugoslavians and others. With a firm dedication to their own cultural heritage and language, the Finns have been among the most consistently enduring of all. Between 1891 and 1951, 10 Finnish language newspapers were published in Astoria, a tribute to their literacy and activism.

Between 1891 and 1951, 10 Finnish language newspapers were published in Astoria.

The socialist strain of Finnish politics remained a hot-button topic here for generations.

After her publication of “The Finnish Socialists of Clatsop County,” a local historian had a confrontational encounter. “A woman said to me: ‘I had two people (in my family) mentioned.

I don’t want the family name listed.’ This was in 1995, and the reference was to her family in 1914.”

Setting such long-simmering controversies aside, people with Finnish ancestry remain key ingredients in local culture and color, helping how we all see and celebrate this spectacular place.

For Marlantes, his Finnish grandmother and her love for the Columbia inspired a novel and a life of creativity. “She had a relationship with the river,” Marlantes said. “She was an atheist. She was a communist. And I asked her if she ever had any thought that there might be a deity. And she said, ‘Well, if there is one, it’s the river.’”

Cross the mighty Columbia River to Naselle this summer and discover a centuries-old passion for nature, history and tradition among these hardy families from the northwestern corner of the Old World.

86

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Photos from top: Local men with Finnish ancestry perform as a boy peers at them from the shade of a Finnish flag.

Festival fans line up for Finnish delicacies and performances.

Girls in traditional Finnish garb celebrate their ancestry.

PRIVATE EVENT FACILITY RENTAL

Estate Jewelry, Diamonds,Art & Antiques FREE APPRAISALS -no appointment necessary

A Value Seeker’s Paradise Top Prices for Gold & Silver Downtown Astoria on 12th St. 503-325-7600 Wed-Sun

Broker/Realtor

CLATSOP COUNTY FAIR · CRAB, SEAFOOD & WINE FESTIVAL MONSTER TRUCK SHOWS · GUN & KNIFE SHOWS ANTIQUE SHOWS · DOG SHOWS & MUCH MORE Check out our website and Facebook page for 2019 events!

W W W. C L AT S O P C O FA I R E X P O . C O M

92937 Walluski Loop Astoria, Oregon • 503-325-4600

• SEASIDE Carousel Mall • • More than 15 unique shops

Anchor Realty

Two offices to serve you….Long Beach & Ocean Park

503-318-3816

rich@anchor-realestate.com www.longbeachwarealestate.com

300 Broadway Open Every Day

& activities surrounding a full-sized working carousel.

•

•

Join us for shopping, dining, & family fun for ages 1 to 100.

•

•

Mall hours posted at: seasidecarouselmall.com

4.042”w X 4.986”t

DiscoverOurCoast.com

87

LIVE & STAY

OUR PICKS

Inn at Harbour Village

Norblad Hotel

Ilwaco, Washington

Astoria, Oregon

By Patrick Webb

By Katherine Lacaze

As you walk up the path to the Inn at Harbour Village, the first thing you notice is the impressive and apparently well preserved steeple.

Yes, this nautical or New England-style, blue-colored inn is inside a former Presbyterian church, built in 1926. One step inside into the lobby and the delightful lure of freshly baked cookies pervades, an inevitable welcoming effect as you move into a cozy Old-World parlor that resembles an upper-crust Dickensian setting.

The bed-and-breakfast inn is up a slight hill at 120 Williams Ave., N.E. in Ilwaco. Located just off Spruce Street, the main highway through town, it is nevertheless quiet, and walking distance from Ilwaco’s varied charms in town or at the port.

LeAnna and Kevin Moos bought the inn four years ago after unrelated careers in their native Colorado. Eager to embrace a challenge in the hospitality business, they sought a perfect scenic locale along the Oregon and Washington coasts from Cannon Beach to Canada. When they circled back to Ilwaco to visit family, Kevin Moos was reminded of childhood fishing trips to the peninsula.

Their inn boasts 10 rooms, all with bathrooms and TVs. They serve a continental breakfast, then guests are free to enjoy their days how they choose. During the evening, there’s the opportunity of a complimentary glass of wine amid informal chatter about the best place to eat dinner and where to explore tomorrow.

Artwork at the inn features peninsula talents like David Campiche, Eric Wiegardt and Marie Powell.

The church wing offers an opportunity for events like weddings, conferences and retreats, including a major-league spooky haunted house that last year attracted 250 visitors. When Halloween’s ghastly monsters and spiders are packed away, the space returns to an intimate live concert venue. This benefits from the former chapel’s terrific acoustics. Guitars and pipes resonate particularly well.

The Miller-Jeffers Building in downtown Astoria, designed by John E. Wick, has housed a hotel for nearly 100 years. The current iteration, the Norblad Hotel, is a vibrant, funky hotel/hostel hybrid that offers both private and communal rooms featuring more of what travelers need and want — and less of what they don’t.

In January 1923, George F. Norblad, a Portland businessman with local ties to the Oregon Coast and a brother who served as Oregon’s governor from 1929 to 1931, opened the Norblad Hotel on 14th Street.

When current owner Paul Caruana and a business partner purchased the building in 2007, the hotel was operating under a different name, and in need of serious renovation. They set about updating the space, giving it a subtly modern, minimalist design and eye-catching décor, with each of the 17 rooms featuring meticulously chosen finishes and high-quality pieces.

Yet the atmosphere at the hotel is both laid-back and relaxing.

The stylish lobby features a large fireplace and comfortable seating that invites patrons to gather, share a drink, or peruse the vinyl records lining the walls. There is also a shared kitchen they can use to prepare meals while on their vacation. For those who prefer privacy, the hotel offers rooms with private bathrooms at an increased cost. Overall, the vibe is geared toward active travelers who are looking for a classy yet comfortable place to sleep and relax in between touring the downtown area and the Pacific Northwest at large. Within blocks of the hotel, patrons can find a wide range of restaurants, breweries, boutique shops and cultural attractions, including the Flavel House Museum, the Oregon Film Museum, the Garden of Surging Waves and the Astoria Riverwalk.

88

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

North Fork 53

Seaside Oceanfront Inn

Nehalem, Oregon

Seaside, Oregon

By Nicole Bales

By Alyssa Evans

Nestled in Nehalem forest land is a retreat for lovers of tea, permaculture and plant medicine or anyone looking for a quiet and peaceful getaway.

Brigham and Ginger Edwards opened North Fork 53 Retreat and Tea Gardens in 2016. They restored a farmhouse filling it with reading nooks, a yoga room and a tea bar with tea grown on-site. The living room is a great place to relax and drink tea. There are several spacious bedrooms in the house. Some are designed to fit groups while others are meant for one or two. Restrooms are communal. A group can rent the entire house or individuals and couples can book a room. There is also plenty of seating space to relax by their wood fire.

Guests are encouraged to walk through the garden along the river and use their sauna. In the morning, the hosts meet guests with a beautifully prepared breakfast with locally grown ingredients. The farmhouse is equipped with a large kitchen and dining room table for guests to use.

Prior to check-in, the owners send an email to help guests plan their trip. Their recommendations are filled with nearby restaurants and cafes in Nehalem, Manzanita and Wheeler. The Edwards work diligently to make sure guests have a peaceful and rejuvenating weekend.

Located just off the Seaside Promenade lies the Seaside Oceanfront Inn, a 14-room establishment. Many of the rooms offer views of the Pacific Ocean and goings-on at the beach outside the inn.

The inn also offers rooms with views of the town, some of which are pet-friendly. Each room throughout the inn is fully furnished with modern furniture and includes amenities such as private jetted tubs, flat screen TVs and DVD players, Keurig coffee pots, gas fireplaces and seats to lounge in.

The restaurant Maggie’s on the Prom is also part of the hotel.

Maggie’s features locally-made fine dining, with menu items such as fried Willapa Bay oysters and local rock cod fish and chips. In addition to its award-winning food, Maggie’s hosts local events and concerts.

The inn also includes Beach Drive Suites, a three-unit complex just blocks down the street. These rooms are apartment-style units featuring multiple bedrooms, full kitchens, complete living rooms and private decks. Both the inn and suites are within walking distance to the Seaside Promenade and downtown Seaside. Downtown activities include the Seaside Inverted Experience, Seaside Aquarium, Seaside Carousel Mall, Funland Arcade as well as several shops and dining options.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

89

NORTHWESTBOUNTY

LIVE & STAY

Words: Katherine Lacaze

90

Images: Hailey Hoffman Colin Murphey Katherine Lacaze Our Coast Magazine 2020

FARMERS MARKETS FROM MANZANITA TO LONG BEACH OFFER MAKER-TO-BUYER INTERACTIONS WITH CRAFTS, FOOD & MORE

Locals and visitors seeking a maker-to-buyer interaction when shopping for produce, handmade crafts and other goods are in luck in the Columbia-Pacific region.

Every summer, farmers, bakers, creators, entrepreneurs and the like tote their wares to a variety of open air markets throughout the region to connect with consumers and promote their business.

While the markets scattered along the coast from Manzanita to the Long Beach Peninsula share similarities in their titles and other elements, they also possess noticeable distinctions influenced by environment, vendors and the crowds they draw.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

91

LIVE & STAY

People line the streets of downtown Astoria for the first Sunday Market of the 2019 season.

“Each market kind of has its own personality, its own flavor,” said Cyndi Mudge, who has managed the Astoria Sunday Market since 2008.

Spanning three downtown city blocks and two parking lots, the Astoria Sunday Market, which is heading into its 20th season this year, is the largest on the coast, as well as one of the largest in the state.

Especially during the height of the summer, the market encompasses more of a “festival atmosphere,” Mudge said, adding they encourage the presence of buskers and other street performers. On a given Sunday, market-goers may experience giant bubbles floating through the air or encounter individuals and groups promoting their events. They can 92

Our Coast Magazine 2020

purchase a personalized poem for $1 a piece and get a warm lunch in the outdoor food court.

At the heart of the market, however, are the diverse vendors who converge for a variety of reasons. Whether they’re individuals seeking an outlet for distributing the byproduct of an “out-of-control hobby,” fledgling entrepreneurs getting their feet wet before investing in a brickand-mortar location or established business owners who rely on the market season to make a living, they all play an important role in creating an unparalleled consumer experience, Mudge said.

“Essentially, the idea is that when you talk to a vendor, you’re talking to a person who is involved in the production of the product in some way,” she said.

BUILDING COMMUNITY

While the Astoria Sunday Market is its own entity, as is the Manzanita Farmers Market, other markets on the north Oregon and south Washington coasts are sponsored or subsidized by the local government or a municipal entity, including the Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market in Long Beach, the Cannon Beach Farmers Market, the Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco and the Fishermen and Farmers Market in Warrenton. Seaside Farmers Market is organized by Sunset Empire Park & Recreation District, falling into the organization’s mission of promoting local farmers, connecting people with nutritious food, and stimulating community spirit, market manager Angi Wildt said.

Astoria Sunday Market

10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sundays May 10 through October 11 astoriasundaymarket.com

Warrenton Farmers Market 3 to 7 p.m. Thursdays June through September ci.warrenton.or.us/marinas/page/ fishermen-farmers-market

Seaside Farmer’s Market Emma Zimmerman, with Glory B Farms/Veggie Girls Produce Co. in Grays River, Washington, sells fresh, organic produce to a customer at the Columbia-Pacific Farmers’ Market.

Cannon Beach market manager Philomena Lloyd has a similar outlook on local farmers markets and their value, describing them as “huge community-building” events. As a market that only encompasses fresh food or value-enhanced edible products, along with fresh-cut flowers, the Cannon Beach Farmers Market also provides an opportunity for farmers and purveyors to network and develop mutually beneficial relationships with local restaurant chefs and foodies, Lloyd said.

The Stephanie Inn offers guests a unique experience where they can sign up for a Tuesday market visit to pick out produce and other ingredients from the vendors. The chef will then incorporate those selections into their dish that evening.

Another way farmers markets engender community spirit is by presenting a social experience alongside the opportunity for more personal commerce. The Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market is set up at Veteran’s Field downtown, with the vendors encircling an open, grassy space speckled with picnic tables that wordlessly entreat market-goers to linger throughout the afternoon.

“I like to think of it as a big vendor hug on the field,” market manager Mallory Cox said.

A couple local nonprofit organizations offer arts and crafts activities for children, along with entertaining yet educational talks about environmental topics. Market-goers can also play checkers together, enjoy a meal from one of the food carts or listen to the live music present at each market during the summer.

SETTING THE TONE

Live music is not unique to the Long Beach venue. Each of the coastal markets offers music and entertainment in some form.

The Manzanita Farmers Market is opened each Friday afternoon to the cadence of hand drums – a longtime tradition – in addition to featuring live music near the dining area.

In Astoria, the entertainment has undergone an evolution in the past couple years, as musicians are no longer able to do covers and must perform all original music, Mudge said. While it posed a challenge for some regulars, it also motivated them to engage the creative process and stretch their artistic horizons. It also fits better into the market’s mission of highlighting locally produced food and goods. Now, the music is also local.

“I love that aspect of the market and how we’ve changed that and how we’re promoting independent music as well,” Mudge said.

When Wildt took over the Seaside market in 2015, she recognized the importance of adding this feature to augment the overall experience for those strolling through.

“Music really sets a tone for the market,” she said. “People are relaxed and having fun.”

The mellow vibe in Seaside is also influenced by clientele, which in turn is impacted by the coast’s substantial tourism industry. During the summer, the beach town’s population burgeons with families on vacation enjoying the ocean and other local attractions.

2 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays June through September seasidemarket.org/

Cannon Beach Farmers Market

1-5 p.m. Tuesdays June through September ci.cannon-beach.or.us/ farmersmarket

Manzanita Farmers Market 4 to 7 p.m. Fridays June through September manzanitafarmersmarket.com

Saturday Market at Port of Ilwaco

10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturdays May through September portofilwaco.com/events/ saturday-market/

Columbia-Pacific Farmers’ Market

Noon to 5 p.m. Fridays June through September longbeachwa.gov/recreation/ farmersmarket/

DiscoverOurCoast.com

93

LIVE & STAY

“That’s what brought them here,” said Brooke McClain, owner of Barking Dog Farms in Clatskanie. Being in vacation mode, she added, they seem more relaxed and “genuinely happy to be here.”

Farmers markets are the primary source of business for her small, organic farm, and she’s content with that.

“It’s all I want to do as far as marketing my product,” she said. “I like the interaction.”

For canine customers, she conducts tastings of her handmade dog treats. With her human customers, she takes advantage of the slow pace of the market to instigate personalized interactions during which she can explain the process for growing and producing her products.

When people understand the meticulous effort that goes into growing or processing food, “it means more,” she said.

GOING TO MARKET

For Cannon Beach, tourism means that although physically smaller than many others on the coast, the market is no less lucrative for the vendors. For five years, Sweet Treats by George from Forest Grove has been coming to the market each Tuesday laden with homemade brittle, toffee, caramels and other goodies.

94

Our Coast Magazine 2020

According to Troi Richards, who works the booth with his grandparents George and Donna Goff, the skilled artisans behind the confections, the Cannon Beach Farmers Market is their most profitable in terms of gross revenue.

“Candy sells well at the beach,” Richards said. The best part, he added, is the market hasn’t “topped out” yet. “They’re still growing.”

It generally takes three or four years for a market to become sustainable as it works through the cyclical process of acquiring more vendors and clientele – both of which rely on a big turnout of the other to make it worth their while.

“The vendors want more people and the people want more vendors,” Wildt said.

Even after stabilizing, markets can still undergo transitions, and they respond to the general state of the economy like businesses in other industries. The Astoria Sunday Market had a then-record-breaking year in 2007 before the 2008 recession hit, causing the venue to lose numerous vendors. Building back up has been a continual process over the past 10 years, Mudge said.

The market now has fewer spaces than it used to – with typically 145 vendors taking up roughly 160 to 170 spots – but in terms of profit, the past four seasons have finally “beaten the

2007 numbers,” she said. Meanwhile, she said, “the quality of the vendors keeps improving.”

As food purveyors, artisans, and farmers age and retire, or simply move away, they occasionally exit the farmers market scene.

Others, especially those who sell a specialized product that appeals to a specific demographic, find more success at certain markets. Ron Williams, the owner of Crustacean Sensation, finds his baiting products – used for catching lobsters, crawfish, and prawns – are more popular in Ilwaco and Warrenton than venues such as Long Beach, simply because of the clientele primarily drawn to the various markets.

While some vendors move on after a single season or several, others are there for the long-haul, passing down the responsibility for running the booth to younger generations.

Emma Zimmerman, whose parents own Glory ‘B’ Farms in Grays River, Washington, has a deep connection to the Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market. She and her sisters grew up attending the market and, eventually, running the Veggie Girls Produce Co. booth for the family.

“It’s a good way to support your community and feel more of a part of the community,” Zimmerman said. “And who doesn’t just love coming to the market?”

CARRUTHERS 1198 Commercial St. • Astoria

503-741-3443

Serving Brunch Everyday!

Happy Hour ALL DAY (in the bar)

WESTGATE Cabins & RV Park

ORIGINAL FINE ART

ON THE BEACH 7 Miles North of Long Beach

on the waterfront port of ilwaco, wa marie-powell.com 360-244-0800

OPEN ALL YEAR

(360) 665-4211

Ocean Front Cabins

DirecTV/WiFi • full RV hook-ups • fish/clam cleaning rooms restrooms/ showers • laundry • recreation room w/kitchen & fireplace

Klipsan Beach 20803 Pacific Way • Ocean Park, WA 98640

We’re looking out for you!

REAL ESTATE SALES

CABINS TO OCEAN-FRONT HOMES SERVING PACIFIC COUNTY & THE LONG BEACH PENINSULA LONG BEACH, CHINOOK, ILWACO, SEAVIEW, OCEAN PARK, NAHCOTTA, OYSTERVILLE & NASELLE. 800-349-5446 OR 360-642-3127 LONGBEACH@PACREAL.COM

VACATION AND SHORT TERM RENTALS

VACATION RENTAL MANAGEMENT SERVICES PROPERTY SECURITY, ALL NON-SMOKING HOMES. SELECTED PET-FRIENDLY. AFFORDABLE HOMES FOR UP TO 10 GUESTS! 888-879-5479 OR 360-642-4549 PRPM@PACREAL.COM

Discovery Coast Real Estate

Serving All Buyers and Sellers from Pacific County For all your Real Estate Needs, visit

NWMLS

360-642-3325

www.discoverycoastrealestate.com Search by City, Price, or Type - We have it all!

360-642-3325 • 877-637-1412

1711 Pacific Ave So., Long Beach, WA 98631

#1 TOP SELLING OFFICE 2016, 2017, 2018 & 2019!

LESLIE BROPHY TOP SELLING BROKER!

DiscoverOurCoast.com

95

LIVE & STAY

TsunamiSigns

Words: Nicole Bales Images: Hailey Hoffman

Drivers and pedestrians have seen the tsunami signs along the coast, but chances are few people have practiced using the signs for a possible emergency evacuation.

Clatsop County’s Emergency Management Division recently completed the Tsunami Wayfinding Project, which has defined the evacuation routes to help guide people to higher ground in the event of an earthquake or tsunami.

The county has added more signs and cataloged the signs to help them identify and replace them when they are stolen — which has become a problem on the coast.

In the meantime, the Oregon Sea Grant has come up with a fun way to encourage people to use the signs and practice evacuation routes through “tsunami quests.”

96

Our Coast Magazine 2020

T

sunami quests are self-guided walking tours that use clues and instructions to show people how to find higher ground, while also leading them to discover historical treasures. Eventually, the clues guide questers to a hidden box with a logbook in which participants can sign and stamp to mark their completion.

It works kind of like geocaching and letterboxing, except the quests are in a book, and there is no trinket sharing upon finding the hidden box. The quests are designed to be educational.

“It’s really open to anybody who has a sense of adventure and pencil and a set of directions,” said Cait Goodwin, Oregon Sea Grant quest program coordinator.

Goodwin started the program in 2007, modeling it after a similar program on the East Coast.

There are 28 active quests in the Oregon Coast book, and while they are not all emergency preparedness-related, they all offer education about the coast.

The North Coast tsunami quests guide questers to higher ground from Fort Stevens State Park and from the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria.

The quests can take about 30 minutes to an hour to complete and are a fun way to practice an evacuation and learn new facts about the area.

The Astoria quest begins at the Astoria Riverwalk in front of the Barbey Maritime Center. The directions guide questers to higher ground, while also Tsunami quests highlighting historic landmarks that are self-guided reveal clues to a hidden message. Each clue helps reveal a letter of the hidden walking tours message, which isn’t divulged until that use clues arriving at the final destination. and instructions Tsunami quests are an educational activity at any time of the year for to show people visitors and locals. The quests take note how to find higher of and add context to the establishments, ground, while also streets and even unusual pavement markings that are often taken for leading them to granted. Whether you live on the coast discover historical or are visiting, you will probably learn treasures. something you didn’t know before.

The quests are fun to do as a family, couple or even class split up into groups of six.

The book is available at the Columbia River Maritime Museum gift shop or at Friends of Old Fort Stevens at Fort Stevens State Park. Every September, the tsunami quests are made available for free on the Oregon Sea Grant website in honor of National Preparedness Month.

Blue Anderson, director of visitor services for the Columbia River Maritime Museum, said the quest book is popular, especially among teachers.

In general, Goodwin said when people arrive on the coast, they should stop and figure out where higher ground is located. She said it is important to be aware of the tsunami flood maps and create a plan before enjoying the beach.

The evacuation routes are also not always obvious. There may be fences or barriers that block a path and the quests will show you the quickest way to reach higher ground. The playful quests make emergency preparedness fun and less intimidating.

Goodwin said she hopes tsunami quests can normalize evacuation so the practice can become just as normal as fire drills.

“It’s been a fun way to kind of get those conversations going and having people think about where they would go if the ground were to start shaking,” she said.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

97

LIVE & STAY

dress like a local

TIPS ON STAYING DRY AND LOOKING YOUR BEST ALL YEAR LONG Words: Lucy Kleiner • Images: Hailey Hoffman

The coast on the Columbia-Pacific region has plenty to offer: spectacular views, creative microbrews and great people, to name a few. With so much to explore, the sea is sure to call you close all year.

To thrive through four seasons on the coast — and all the rain, wind, sun and more rain that comes with them — follow the residents and gear up at the locally owned businesses that line the sea. From Manzanita to Ocean Park, there are dozens of boutiques that offer more than stylish accessories.

Whether the rain has hit or the sun is shining, stop into any of these local clothing shops and stock up on shoes, hats and everything in between — these places know how to keep you and your wardrobe prepared for life like a local.

98

Our Coast Magazine 2020

summer With a slouchy white sweater from Ter Har’s in Seaside, wide-legged, high-rise cropped jeans from Doe & Arrow and trusty birkenstocks which can be found at Gimre’s Shoes, Lucy Kleiner is ready for a cool summer night and a bright sunny day with her polarized sunglasses from Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion.

White sweater - Ter Har’s Seaside Wide leg jeans - Doe and Arrow Birkenstocks - Gimre’s Shoes Sunglasses - Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion

DiscoverOurCoast.com

99

LIVE & STAY

spring

spring

Weather-ready with her white raincoat, Lucy Kleiner dresses in a salmon jumpsuit and her ever-reliable black chacos, which can be found at Gimre’s Shoes in downtown Astoria.

Spring by the ocean is a lot of things: green, lush, inspirational and overwhelmingly wet. Light stays longer in the evening, fog dissipates earlier and the spotty sunshine calls creatures out of their state of hibernation and back into the natural world — humans included.

With the newfound warmth and the wildflowers in bloom, I am always eager to get out, stretch my legs and show off the clothes I’ve reserved for sunnier days.

On the North Coast, spring is the season for strategic styling. You and your outfit have to be ready for it all — rainstorms and wind gusts included.

Light jumpsuits are perfect for this occasion. They’re cute, versatile and the type of trend that is not going out of style anytime soon. A sleeveless jumpsuit with long pants is the ideal combination for an early April outing.

The open top will allow you to soak in the sunshine, while the long pants will keep you warm and protect your legs from the inevitably dewy grass.

Plus, jumpsuits are easy to layer and will look great with your rain jacket, whether it’s (hopefully) tied around your waist or in full spring-storm mode: hood up and zipper sealed.

Round out your weather-ready outfit with a pair of the most allaround functional sandals on the North Coast market: Chacos. Chacos are a gender-neutral, waterproof sandal that come in countess colors and sizes.

Their firm arch and rubber sole make them heavy-duty enough to handle your spring adventures, and their cute webbing and stylish straps make these the perfect spring shoe. The Chaco selection can be overwhelming, and while you can’t really go wrong with such a comfortable shoe, I recommend investing in a solid color strap without a toe. This style can be worn all year, and you don’t have to worry about matching your patterns or clashing your colors.

100

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Jumpsuit - Doe and Arrow

fall

Lucy Kleiner shows off a red mid-sleeve shirt with white corduroy pants from Doe and Arrow, a rust-toned jacket and a dark brown fedora from Seaside Mostly Hats.

White pants - Doe and Arrow Fedora - Seaside Mostly Hats

summer

fall

Summer spent on the coast can’t be beat. The sun seems to hang on the horizon forever, warming the sand and ripening the blackberries for locals as they head to their favorite sunset spot.

Perhaps the most important part of your summer wardrobe is its functionality. On the coast, it’s easy for a lazy Sunday brunch of pancakes to turn into an impromptu beach day or a stroll through a state park. You need to be ready for it all — and look great the whole time. It’s the classic conundrum: how do you balance fashion and functionality? The timeless battle comes with an equally timeless solution.

Jeans. Denim will help you take on any adventure thrown your way. Straight-leg jeans are especially hot right now, probably due to their versatility. Unlike skinny jeans, they’re flowy enough to move in, and unlike boot-cut jeans, they’re adaptable enough to go great with almost everything.

Style straight-cut jeans with a pair of Birkenstocks to fully embrace the local shoe scene. Thanks to their cork sole, Birkenstocks mold to your feet, making them one of the most comfortable and timeless shoe go-tos. You’ll look great in your Birks at brunch, and they’ll make you feel great at the end of your stroll through Fort Steven’s landscape.

Layer your jeans with a beachy sweater for the full local look, and you’ll be ready for soaking in the summer fun without being held back. Just don’t forget your polarized sunglasses — that sand can be bright.

There is only one thing you can be sure of during a coastal autumn, and it’s that you’ll never be sure of the weather. You can wake up to a crisp, sunny morning and find yourself stranded in a rainstorm before it’s time for lunch.

Regardless, fall in the Columbia-Pacific region is breathtaking, and you’re going to want to take advantage of these sun-speckled days before the winter storms roll in and turn the hike down Saddle Mountain into a mudslide.

The key for survival in the fall is incredibly simple, and even more effective: layer. Layers are crucial — they’ll keep you dry and warm without suffocating you in the fall heat waves we all crave.

Start by working around your favorite pair of corduroy pants. The soft pants are incredibly comfortable and equally stylish. White corduroy is classic and easy to layer on.

Throw on your favorite, light-weight tee, then keep going. A flannel is a good option, as are cardigans, zip-ups or hoodies. Layers let you mix and match your favorite pieces to create new outfits that will stand out in any season.

Add your favorite belt to bring it all together, and don’t forget your hat.

While it may look like a last-minute accessory, the perfect wool hat can work wonders. Not only will you look like a creative fashionista, you’ll also be comfortable all day. The hat will keep the heat in, the brim will keep the rain off and the statement will make the heads turn — in a good way.

With an outfit like this, you’ll be ready to tackle whatever your autumn day entails, whether you’re hunting mushrooms with an all-knowing local or stopping by a new bar to try their seasonal cranberry cocktail.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

101

LIVE & STAY

winter Winter on the coast is a whirlwind. The days go by quickly, the holidays take over the town and the weather remains as unpredictable as ever. Though snow is never a guarantee, it’s also never a surprise. Rain and fog move in for the season, but blue skies refuse to be forgotten. All of this can make getting dressed feel a bit overwhelming, but there is hope, and it comes in the form of a jumpsuit.

Rain boots are central to any coastal winter outfit, and they’ll make you feel invincible.

Unlike flowy spring jumpsuits, winter jumpsuits unlock a whole new meaning of the word cozy.

Thick, long jumpsuits are perfect for almost any winter occasion. Pair them with sleek heels and rock your evening holiday party. Add a simple cardigan and beanie for an everyday look, or throw on a cozy hoodie and lounge around the house —or more likely, stand in the kitchen — all day while you prepare for friends and family to arrive.

If you truly want to dress like a local, pair your jumpsuit with a pair of waterproof boots. Rain boots are central to any coastal winter.

They’ll make you feel invincible, whether you’re taking on the tides or just jumping a few puddles on the way to work. Pick the right socks for your boots, and you’ll have the perfect, weather-proof solution to any rainy day.

102

Our Coast Magazine 2020

winter Rocking a black jumpsuit and black rubber chelsea boots, Lucy Kleiner is ready for winter weather with a fuzzy grey cardigan from Ter Har’s, black beanie from Seaside Mostly Hats and popping red socks from Stormin Norman’s in Long Beach.

Cardigan - Ter Har’s Seaside Red socks - Stormin Norman’s Black beanie - Seaside Mostly Hats Jumpsuit - Doe and Arrow

community-owned market & deli • everyone welcome

Open . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7am -– 9pm 9pm OpenDaily Daily..............7am 2350 2350Marine Marine Drive Drive Astoria, Astoria, OR OR (503)325-0027 325-0027•www.astoria.coop (503) • www.astoria.coop

23rd Street

Columbia River

✴

e rin Ma

ive Dr

tacos from the co-op taqueria

O UT D OO R S E AT I NG AN D BEAC HF R O N T V I E WS

TAP RO O M AND PRO DU CT IO N B RE WE RY

O PE N KITCHEN AND PATIO SEATING

We’ve got you covered on the coast. Ranging from beachfront to contemporary, come visit us at any of our three locations on the Oregon Coast, with a fourth on the way in Lincoln City! With the perfect setting, beer from the beach and expertly paired food, we’ll be sure to satisfy your every need.

P E L I C A N B R E W I N G .C O M |

BORN AT THE BEACH

DiscoverOurCoast.com

103

LIVE & STAY

At the Helm HOTEL & WATERLINE PUB A calm place to stay, recharge on the Long Beach Peninsula Words & Images: Malia Riggs

LIVE & STAY

With the area around Astoria constantly growing, it’s hard to keep track of the new hotels and attractions that are worth checking out, and At the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub in Ilwaco, Washington, is the perfect relaxing getaway to escape the demands of daily life. t the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub opened in spring 2019. Owner and operator of the nine room boutique hotel, Marcene Miller, said that there was much hard work that went on behind the scenes to get the dream she never knew she had up and running.

“When I get people in that are really happy with the vibe, the restaurant and their stay, it’s one of my favorite things,” Miller said.

Having a hotel and pub was not Miller’s original dream, or even one of her dreams at all in the first place.

“When I first came to look at this building, which was designed as an eco trust building, I walked in and said ‘this looks like a hotel’ and I just loved the structure

106

Our Coast Magazine 2020

of it from the first time I saw it,” Miller said.

The hotel sits right on the waterfront in Ilwaco with views over the Ilwaco fuel dock. With the smell of the salty fresh air and the sounds of fishermen and boat engines in the early morning, it is easy to get lost in the sea breeze and forget the stresses that the world back home has to offer.

There are nine unique and spacious decorated rooms that face the 800-slip marina, that also have a distinctive feature, an alcohol burning fireplace, which really cozies up the room and makes it absolutely perfect for a cold winter night or a late, warm summer evening.

Being cozied up in a complimentary bathrobe with the fire burning and the rain tapping on the windows is the ultimate Pacific Northwest getaway. And At the Helm provides that — and more.

Getting people in that are happy with the vibe, the restaurant and their stay, is one of my favorite things.

“I was the general contractor on the job, my whole heart and soul, blood sweat and tears are in here. I literally stripped the floors, sanded them, finished them and refinished everything. I oiled, painted and put everything together, I even hired all my own contractors for the bigger stuff,” Miller said.

Each room is uniquely its own and offers a different feel of the Pacific Northwest behind each door. Each room is individually named after boats that Miller and her husband have owned over the years together.

“Commercial fishing is an important thing around here. My husband has commercial fished all his life, 39 years, and he did it with his dad too. Now my oldest son is a commercial fisherman as well. We could do three more rooms with all the boats my husband and I have owned over the years,” Miller said while smiling and leaning back in her chair.

Upon arrival to the hotel, guests receive a complimentary glass of wine or beer from Waterline, the hotel’s pub that serves lunch and dinner daily, and is supplied with all local products as well.

The complimentary beverages can be enjoyed outside overlooking the marina by the warmth of an outside fireplace and the homey feeling of a fuzzy blanket supplied by At the Helm, weather permitting. Or it can just be enjoyed at the bar or at a table in the pub with a view of the marina.

At the Helm was built using only products from local businesses and the majority of the hotel was built with recycled and repurposed materials. Miller said she only uses local businesses for almost everything she does at the hotel and pub, down to the logo which was designed by a local artist.

The view of the Port of Ilwaco from At the Helm Hotel & Waterline Pub.

The beautiful wooden beams that can be seen from the pub and in some of the ground level rooms are a signature staple in the hotel.

The beams and the majority of the materials used to remodel the building were repurposed from Bumble Bee Seafoods cannery in Astoria.

“Every piece of wood in here even the molding around the door, the stairs, the bar and the outside siding is recycled. I was thinking why was this building just sitting here? But because I am a woman in business the bank was willing to work with me, and I knew how to organize, plan and build it,” Miller said.

Miller had a vision and ran with it.

Each room is equipped with eco and reusable friendly features such as a water filter in each room and eco-friendly Nest bath products which are mounted in the showers to utilize as little waste as possible.

At the Helm Hotel sits in the perfect location for ample things to do and peak relaxation. The Discovery Trail leading to Beards Hollow beach at Cape Disappointment State Park is just a short walk from the hotel.

These hiking trails are for all ages and ranges of experience with mostly paved and relatively flat paths to the beach or into Cape Disappointment State Park itself.

Miller said she hopes to get kayaks and bikes for patrons to enjoy this summer as well.

But At the Helm is not the only place in Long Beach and Ilwaco to kick back and relax.

Adrift Hotel provides perfect beachy views, Tokeland Hotel, the oldest hotel in Washington state, has newly renovated guest suites and new ownership by Heather Earnhardt and her contractor husband, Zac Young. The Sou’wester Historic Lodge and Vintage Trailer Park in Seaview provides a distinctive and comfortable feel for a vacation as well.

The calm ethos of Ilwaco offers hotel guests a quiet stay driving distance from busier locales.

“Ilwaco is a totally different feel than Long Beach, you can still go to Long Beach and Astoria, it’s quiet, peaceful and relaxing.

This is somewhere to go if you want to kickback and enjoy your room and enjoy the views,” Miller said.

“I want At the Helm to be a destination for people, a destination for people to escape the city,” Miller said.

Situated close to the water, a walk from some of the best hiking on the coast and a short drive from the main attractions the coast has to offer, At the Helm Hotel is the weekend getaway destination that provides a bounty of relaxation on the coast.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

107

LIVE & STAY

MY COAST

Interviews & images: Hailey Hoffman

ARLINE LAMEAR

Retired Astoria mayor, city councilor, Columbia River Maritime Museum librarian and author of “Lewis and Clark: The Astoria Cats” • Astoria, Oregon

I love the river and all the activity. It’s a town on the move. This is a town of volunteers. It’s amazing to me how many people volunteer three, four, five different places every week, and they care about the city a lot. Very few people have a negative impression of Astoria.

When I was the mayor of Astoria and I would go to the Oregon Mayors Association meeting, they’d see that I was from Astoria. Many of them would say, ‘That’s my favorite city in Oregon.’

It was a real honor and a real privilege to represent the city.

PATRICK LATHROP

Coaster Theatre Playhouse Executive Director • Cannon Beach, Oregon

There are two communities. The Coaster Theatre has its own community, its own set of active volunteers and people who just are very involved in the theater.

Some of them have been involved in the theater for 40, 50 years. Some of them are brand new, but it seems like once you get into the theater, you become part of the family and you become part of the theater community. The Cannon Beach community is a wonderful group of people. I had the unfortunate situation of having an (apartment) fire. There were three local residents that were involved with that. The community just really rallied to help me and help the others, and I was so impressed and moved by the the support and concern that the community showed after that event. It was very, very impressive.

PAM FLEMING

Owner of Nature’s Helper Landscaping, landscaper for the city of Seaside and violinist in the North Coast Chamber Orchestra • Seaside, Oregon

I started the business in Kansas, so when I came here I got to bid on the job. It’s the freedom that I love about it. I have been able to schedule things around my life and still put hours and hours and hours into the job because it was so important to me to develop that. All the gardens have themes and it’s reflecting downtown (Seaside). Over the years, I’ve continually developed them into what they are because not everything works where you put it. I have a wonderful relationship with the city, and they’re always helpful and support whatever happens. It’s a great job. A lot of people tell me they’re so jealous of my job when it’s beautiful and sunny but when it’s not they’re like, ‘How do you do that?’ I love all the time of the year out there and I love being outside. It’s a perfect fit.

108

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Hear why the locals call our coast home.

JOHN KOCH

Park Ranger at Fort Stevens State Park • Warrenton, Oregon

(Being a park ranger is) something that I wasn’t sure of when I first took the position, and I’ve kind of grown into an appreciation for the history of Oregon and its role in world history. I’ve had the opportunity to present that to the public and open their eyes, give them some insight into just how much Fort Stevens has done for Oregon’s history in a military perspective, from the natural resources perspective, and it’s a recreation opportunity for people. It’s a cool place, and we’ve got great neighbors here – Astoria and Seaside and Cannon Beach and across the river in Long Beach. I mean, this is the place people want to come.

NICHOLE LOPEZ

Consumer loan servicing specialist at Craft3, Peninsula Poverty Response board member, former AmeriCorps volunteer for Peninsula Poverty Response and Coastal Community Action Program • Astoria, Oregon

I think I always kind of wanted to do something that could have a greater impact, and I’ve always been interested in community service and volunteer work. I didn’t really know about the AmeriCorps program until I was just kind of like thinking, ‘What am I going to do?’ Then this just kind of popped up, and it was in my hometown. When I really saw what the program was and the kind of work that I could do, it really inspired me to just stick with it. It helped foster an understanding of community and how you can be a part of it. There’s a lot that can be done with that. After doing two years in AmeriCorps, I realized that I really did love this type of work. I wanted to know how I could expand that and learn more, which is what brought me to Craft3.

JOSHUA SARANPAA

Executive Director, Wildlife Center of the North Coast • Warrenton, Oregon

I’m a fourth generation Astorian. My family, it’s been here forever. I just have deep roots here, and oh, boy, I love nature. This is a really good place to be around wildlife. I really love rainy wet weather, so this is the perfect place to be. I love the climate, the rain and the wind and sogginess. I love wildlife and the nature that we have around here everywhere you go. I also just like the small community of these small coastal towns. There’s someone you know everywhere you go, and I think that’s pretty special.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

109

COASTAL LIFE

OUR COAST FROM THE AIR A photo essay by Hailey Hoffman

Photographing the North Oregon Coast and the Long Beach Peninsula is a dream in itself. With a drone, the sky is no longer the limit for what I can capture. I can quite literally reach new heights, which means new angles, new sights and a new way of looking at our home. These photographs show prominent coastal landmarks from a different vantage point — I hope they give you a new way of looking at our coast.

110

Our Coast Magazine 2020

ASTORIA BRIDGE

Thousands of runners and walkers cross the Astoria Bridge during the 2019 Great Columbia Crossing.

Visit DiscoverOurCoast.com to see a video of our coast from the air.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

111

COASTAL LIFE NEAH-KAH-NIE MOUNTAIN

112

Our Coast Magazine 2020

HAYSTACK ROCK

ECOLA POINT

DiscoverOurCoast.com

113

COASTAL LIFE

SADDLE MOUNTAIN

CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT

114

Our Coast Magazine 2020

SHIPWRECK OF THE PETER IREDALE

DiscoverOurCoast.com

115

COASTAL LIFE

1. COLUMBIAN BLACK-TAILED DEER Odocoileus hemionus columbianus

Columbian black-tailed deer can be found year round throughout Clatsop County. They can be spotted in your own backyard, crossing the street or prancing deep in the brush of our thick forests. They are most active at dusk and dawn.

2. ELK

Cervus elaphus

Elk can be found all over the North Coast and deep into the Clatsop State Forest. They frequent Fort Stevens State Park in the grassy areas near the batteries. Herds of up to 200 elk can be easily found at the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area off of Nehalem Highway. They’re in the area year-round but the best time to see them is between November and April.

3. CALIFORNIA SEA LION Zalophus californianus

These large, brown beasts frequent the Astoria Riverwalk and the East Mooring Basin, harassing fishermen, and also enjoy hanging out in rocky outcrops along the coast. Buoy Beer features a glass floor to view sea lions resting on the boards above the river and beneath the restaurant. With a recent spike in population, they’re not hard to find. You’ll probably be able to hear them before you see them, as they’re some of the most vocal of marine mammals.

1

Critters

4. HUMPBACK WHALE Megaptera novaeangliae

OF THE NORTH COAST Words & images: Hailey Hoffman

The north Oregon and southwest Washington coasts are full of critters who share the singular terrain and distinct Northwest beauty residents here revel in. Whether in the winter, spring, fall or summer, these animals are part of our coastal communities fabric and are a constant cause for conversation. We hope you learn something new about these creatures who call our coast home.

These massive and elusive creatures spend most of their time out in the Pacific Ocean, but will sometimes take a detour and swim up the Columbia River to feed on salmon and other aquatic species native to the river. Head out to Dismal Nitch, Cape Disappointment State Park or the Hammond Marina to try your luck at spotting them as they travel in and out or the river, or head to the beach for the opportunity to watch them swim up or down the coast during migration. The humpbacks pass through the region July through September as they travel south to warmer waters in Mexico and Hawaii to breed and pass back through in March through May as they travel to cooler waters up north near Alaska to feed.

5. GREAT BLUE HERON Ardea herodias

This 4-foot tall bird with a 6-foot wingspan are common around the North Coast. They feed on fish and other marine life, so they prefer to hang out in marine environments. Spot them at the beach, along the river or in any spacious wetland. With their long legs and blue plumage, they aren’t hard to spot.

6. WESTERN GULL Larus occidentalis

You don’t have to look far to find one of these coastal staples.

There’s probably one flying above you right now. These gulls usually nest along rocky cliffs and survive off of small fish and bug life, however, they often find homes in cities and scavenge garbage to survive.

7. SONG SPARROW Melospiza melodia

2 116

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Listen closely for these sparrows’ short, chirping songs on any nature walk in the area. While these birds can thrive in most habitats, they’re often found flitting through the brush, tweeting their short little songs.

3

6 7

5

4

DiscoverOurCoast.com

117

COASTAL LIFE

Fishing Industry

Interviews & images: Hailey Hoffman

ITS HOLD ON ASTORIANS, ITS CULTURE AND THE COLUMBIA RIVER

In Astoria, there are third and fourth generation gillnetters working on the Columbia River. But the industry has changed. Astoria’s identity has been synonymous with fishing since the 1850s, but the industry has fragmented so much so that there is only one active cannery on the riverwalk where there once were dozens.

We talked to fishermen about their dedication to fishing, the lifestyle it provides, how it has changed and what the future holds for fishing in Astoria.

TOM HILTON Tom Hilton operates the Hanthorn Crab Co. and Pier 39 Seafood on the historic Pier 39 dock that once housed Bumble Bee Seafoods. Hilton is also a casual longshoreman and an active fisherpoet.

Q: What is your family’s history in the fishing industry in Astoria?

A: I’m the adopted son of a socialist Finn who was a longshoreman and a commercial gillnetter here in Astoria and Cook Inlet, Alaska. I grew up in Uniontown, Astoria. I went to grade school, graduated Astoria High, and I started commercial fishing when I was 8 years old here on the river down with what would be known as the farmer buoy, Flavel buoy, which are down on the lower parts of the Columbia River. I gillnetted in the Columbia River up until 2015.

Q: Tell me about Astoria’s fishing industry and the community.

A: Astoria’s fishing industry goes way back and has a long reach. This is where the industry started. So as far as gillnetting and canning and processing of salmon, it started here, and most of the fishermen that are from here traveled to Alaska as contract fishermen for many of the companies that were Bumble Bee or Kenai Packers. The community came around the basic idea that everybody goes to work — 7 o’clock 118

Our Coast Magazine 2020

breakfast, 8 o’clock cannery workers go to work and 10 o’clock there’s coffee time. Noon lunch, 3 o’clock coffee time, 5 o’clock dinner, 8:30 mug up. That was the life and people’s lives were around that; the community circled around that. Fishermen had their breakroom; cannery workers had their break room. People knew each other. You knew each other from across the room. You knew each other in the neighborhood.

Astoria is a much different looking community today than it was back then. Nowadays, people whine about putting development on the river.

That’s what built this town — net racks and canneries and boats and fishermen and steam and the smell of money. That’s what it was. And everybody looked out for each other.

Q: What is the community like now?

A: Fragments. In Astoria, nothing. There’s no brotherhood. There’s friends, everybody sees each other. But it’s just a fragmented society of what it used to be.

Q: What is your family’s connection to the fishing industry in the Columbia River region?

A: I have two boats that fish here and permits, and my dad has three boats that fish here and four permits. My brother has two boats and two permits.

We’re all independent business owners. We are a self-employed fishermen based community.

Q: What is it like fishing here?

A: We’re lucky we have the biggest king salmon run in the world on the Columbia River, and to see that in its prime 100 years ago would have been amazing. Now, with these current regulations and impacts in 2019, the gillnet fleet got 20% (of impacts) to run our fishery. We used 98%. Now the recreational fishery got 80% of the killable impacts, and they only used 48% of their 80% of the allocation of the killable fish. That’s pretty concerning and definitely threatening to my industry. When people come to the coast, a lot come for the seafood. They come to eat salmon or crab or some type of seafood, and this Northwest region has always been notorious for great seafood.

It’s a big deal.

OTIS HUNSINGER Otis Huntsinger has been a commercial fisherman for 20 years and has fished from California to Alaska.

He currently works in the Columbia River fishery with his father and brother. He lives in Knappa with his wife and two

Q: What do you see for the future of the fishing industry in Astoria?

A: If it can keep going it’d be great. I think there’s a place for it. We just got to work together. Gillnetting could be a key tool in the future. We’re trying to stay alive and keep our industry going. It’s been a big part of Astoria’s history, and with using selective methods such as the time that we fish in and the size of gear that we’re using, setting a season, and also ODFW (Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife) overseeing what is getting caught. We could be very viable and a big part of the future. It could be a good industry, and we could feed a lot of people, which is what we want to do.

Q: What is the importance of the fishing industry in Astoria?

A: Most of the guys that are fishing in the gillnet industry now are direct descendants of people that have been here for generations. There are three and four generation people involved in it right now, and it goes way back to the 1840s, 1850s in the river. We still do gillnet in the river, (but it’s) very limited participation, mostly from St. Helens and up to below Bonneville. But you know, the heritage is still here; it’s still very important. We are the way to get Columbia River salmon to the consumer.

Q: What is the work you’ve been doing with Salmon For All? A: The work we’ve been doing with Salmon For All lately is fighting against the Kitzhaber plan and we had a ballot initiative in 2012, Measure 81, that would outlaw gill in the state of Oregon, main stem as well as our select areas which are off channel sites with net pen hatchery fish for us to catch. So Measure 81 would have ended all that, but we put on a fine campaign. We defeated Measure 81 by a 2-to-1+ margin statewide. People said, ‘No, we understand that commercial fishermen are important. Leave them alone on the Columbia River.’

Q: Why is this important?

A: I’m in the fight for the younger guys that are coming up. I got three sons that fished with me here, fished with me in Alaska, and they all have different occupations going. I just figured, ‘Why get them involved in something like this?’ If they were totally involved in it now, it’d be very hard for them to make a living. There’s a generation of kids that aren’t going to be involved anymore. I have grandkids with all of them, and I wish they could all be here and all be involved in the industry. But, it just wasn’t in the cards, so we’re not giving up on it. We’re still pushing, still fighting.

JIM WELLS Jim Wells has been a commercial fisherman for nearly 45 years out of Oregon, Washington and Alaska. He is the president of Salmon For All, a nonprofit based in Astoria representing the Columbia River gillnet industry. His family has been active in the Astoria fishing industry since the 1930s.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

119

COASTAL LIFE Q: How does it feel to be one of the last canneries in Astoria?

A: Well, I am the last processing facility in Astoria with the exception of the Port (of Astoria) with Bornstein’s and Da Yang’s. It’s sad because there’s so much opportunity that we do have in the seafood industry that is compromised by urban politics in Oregon, and things do change some, you know, everything evolves. You look at the waterfront when I was a kid here, and there were a lot of processing, six (canneries), when I was young. That was a little more vibrant. We didn’t take the long term vision of development and the Columbia River basin in a responsible manner as a society. And if it wasn’t for the Columbia River salmon industry, there would be no salmon.

Q: What opportunities does the fishing industry provide for a community?

A: “(Astoria) is a place where people can get exposed to commercial fishing, all different facets. It’s on a boat, in a plant, food service, all these different items and in many cases, all of it for some people. That allows people to grow into other businesses — maybe they’re successful here, maybe then they can go fish in the summer in Alaska.

Maybe they can get a crab boat eventually and have a viable well paying job. It’s hard work, but a lot of people like that. It creates a lot of opportunity for the people and their children that work here.

Q: How has the decline in the fishery impacted Astoria?

A: It’s a pretty good investment to have a natural resource based economy. Because people got to eat, they got to be housed. All these factors play into it. We start taking that away, and not understanding the importance of that and what these jobs do for these communities and for people that go into the workforce. I would always make enough money working in the summer to pay for my college in the winter. I got a college degree; I got a life choice. I could choose what I would do. I came back. I was in the seafood business, and it’s been a good living for me. There’s a lot of upward mobility opportunities for people that you just simply don’t get if our natural resources aren’t here.

BRING IN THIS COUPON FOR

10% OFF

YOUR ENTIRE ORDER!

STEVE FICK Steve Fick is the owner of Fishhawk Fisheries — the last cannery on the Astoria Riverwalk. Fick got his start gillnetting in the Columbia River and working at Bumble Bee Seafoods in Astoria during the summers. He is a Salmon For All board member.

Making Waves since 1983 Your Community Voice in the

Columbia Pacific

THC/CBD FLOWER | CONCENTRATES | EDIBLES PREROLLS | ACCESSORIES | TOPICALS MEDICAL

RECREATIONAL

hi Casual Cannabis • 193 Maine Dr., Astoria, OR • 503.325.4078 • hiAstoria.com 120

Our Coast Magazine 2020

CoastRadio.org

Hikes

Words & images: Edward Stratton

ON THE COASTAL EDGE Angora, Onion are peaks less trodden

ONION PEAK

Near the end of Onion Peak Road is a view of the aforementioned peak, rising more than 3,000 feet west of Arch Cape. The top is off limits to the public.

Samuel Boardman, the first parks superintendent of Oregon, once proposed a vast sea-to-summit rainforest reserve encompassing much of the Coastal Edge, a mountainous region from Tillamook Head to Nehalem Bay. Most of the inland from Ecola State Park and the Elmer Feldenheimer State Natural Area has since gone to timber production.

But private timberland landowners allow nonmotorized exploration of the rugged, unique environment, much of which could become a rainforest reserve under the North Coast Land Conservancy.

Watching over the area are the twin sentinels of Angora and Onion peaks, two of the highest and lesser-explored points in Clatsop County.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

121

COASTAL LIFE

Angora Peak

Angora Peak, a rugged crag rising more than 2,600 feet in the southwestern corner of the county, was officially christened in 1925 by an expedition of the Angora Hiking Club and Mazamas. “Angora Peak is the nose of the great face formed against the sky south of Seaside,� proclaimed a 1925 article in The Astoria Daily Budget about the expedition.

Climbing Angora Peak could take days back then. A hike up the peak today starts at a pullout along U.S. Highway 101 just across the border in Tillamook County, about 300 feet south of Falcon Cove Road and roughly 3 miles south of Arcadia Beach State Park.

The hike follows the Arch Cape Mill Road up through more recent clearcuts and winds around the steep slopes of the Angora Peak massif.

Flags mark the end of the maintained road at more than 2,000 feet of elevation, and the beginning of an unofficial, albeit well-trodden trail offering views of the Pacific Ocean.

Reaching the top of Angora Peak requires a final scramble up a ridge.

The top is forested, but the southern face looks out over Nehalem Bay and the lower Nehalem River Valley.

A clear day also affords views of Mounts St. Helens, Rainier, Adams and Hood.

The hike to Angora Peak starts at a pullout about 300 feet south of Falcon Cove Road and follows the Arch Cape Mill Road. Flags mark the end of the maintained road at more than 2,000 feet of elevation and the beginning of an unofficial trail to the top.

Plan ahead Private landowners around Onion and Angora peaks allow nonmotorized access on logging roads. Camping, campfires, firewood cutting and motorized vehicles are generally prohibited unless otherwise posted.

122

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Onion Peak

The hike to the foot of Onion Peak starts along U.S. Highway 101 at Hug Point Road several hundred feet south of Hug Point State Park.

It follows Hug Point and Onion Peak roads, climbing 2,200 feet over 6 miles one-way.

Purchase a road map covering Clatsop and Tillamook counties at the Oregon Department of Forestry’s Astoria District office, 92219 Oregon Highway 202, for $6 between 8 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Remember the 10 hiking essentials — navigation, water, food, insulation, sun protection, a light source, first-aid supplies, emergency shelter and basic tools for repairing equipment.

The Angoras in 1927 filed a petition with the secretary of the interior to reserve Onion Peak, the third-highest point in Clatsop County rising more than 3,000 feet just north of Angora Peak, as a recreational district to be dedicated by Congress as a state park.

“Onion Peak is one of the outstanding mountains of Clatsop County, ranking next to Saddle Mountain in its spectacular qualities,” read a 1927 article in The Astoria Daily Budget about the petition effort.

By 2004, Stimson Lumber owned more than 5,000 acres around Onion Peak. The North Coast Land Conservancy in 2014 received a conservation easement of 387 acres around Onion Peak.

In 2016, Stimson sold around 3,300 acres in the area to Ecotrust Forest Management, an environmentally focused investment firm, through its subsidiary, Onion Peak Holdings.

In an agreement with Ecotrust, the North Coast Land Conservancy pledged to raise about $10 million for the purchase of the 3,300 acres within five years. The conservancy intends to create a 3,500 acre rainforest reserve stretching from Onion Peak south to the Cape Falcon Marine Reserve.

The rocky, subalpine balds on the main summit block of Onion Peak, home to a fragile ecosystem of wildflowers and onions, is kept off limits. Remote cameras watch the entrance, with fines for those who venture up.

But a hike up the graveled Hug Point and Onion Peak roads, rising 2,200 feet over 6 miles through alternating clearcuts and timber stands, affords striking panoramas of the Pacific and, near the end, a view of Onion Peak’s dome rising up with more than 800 feet of prominence.

DiscoverOurCoast.com

123

COASTAL LIFE

Coastal

Clam Bake

Images: Hailey Hoffman

The North Coast is known for its fresh seafood and great flavors. With former Fulio’s Italian and Mediterranean Cuisine chef Peter Roscoe, it doesn’t get much fresher. For the last few years, Roscoe and a cohort of friends head down to the beach each fall at low tide during clamming season and host a cookout. They come in the late afternoon, clam guns in hand, to pull the delectable mollusks from where they bury themselves deep in the sand. Once their baskets are full, they set up camp on the beach and prepare a feast. The clams are cleaned, breaded, fried and served with a squeeze of lemon just moments after leaving the ocean.

The setting sun illuminates Sunset Beach during Peter Roscoe’s cookout. Fresh clams are dipped in an egg batter and bread crumbs.

Roscoe grabs a breaded clam that is then fried over a hot pan.

FORT COLUMBIA STATE PARK

STATION CAMP

Jetty Lagoon

oad yR

Fort Stevens

1

0

0.5

1

Warrenton

105

Lakes, open water Mott Municipal areas

Detail, below

Island

Cities, townships

4

30

101

101

202

6 CSF

er kee Riv loos Wal

er Ro ad

ek L

CSF

Road an og ark

202

le Mt

CLATSOP CO .

ad n. Ro

Cullaby Lake Co. Park Cullaby Lake

Sadd

Cl

R i v er

101

mbia

River

Downtown Astoria

11th Street

10th Street

Ninth Street

Grand Avenue

11

30

10

Duane Street Exchange Street

9

Franklin Avenue 17th Street

Franklin Avenue

30

14th Street

rand Avenue W. G

12 13

7

Asto ria Rive rwalk

30

Eighth Street

W. Exchange Street

Seventh Street

Duane Street

Sixth Street

Fifth Street

Third Street

Commercial Street 30

Our Coast Magazine 2020

CSF

s& wi

e

Manion Driv

Bond Street

500 feet

Pip eli ne

CSF

lm

ad Ro

Tucker Cre L

W. Marine Drive

N

oad

sR

k Wic

CSF

Le

Astoria Riverwalk

14

n Day Joh

Pa

sop

oa d op R iver Lo Youngs R

Fort Clatsop

is & Clark R oad Lew

2

30

BUS

3 t Fort C l a

FORT CLATSOP NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK

Astoria Regional Airport

CSF

d Roa

BUS

Youngs Bay

Lois Islan

CLATSOP STATE FOREST

Old Youngs Bay Bridge

Colu

126

Rivers

lluski Loop Road Wa

ad

104

Sunset Beach State Rec. Site

ASTORIA WARRENTON 101

Trails, walks

5

SE 12th Place

Camp Rilea Military Res.

R

a mbi

State boundary

iver

iver Young s R

e Ro

Fort Stevens State Park Fort to Sea Trail Fort Clatsop Uppertown Firefighters Museum Astoria Column Lower Columbia Disc Golf Course Columbia River Maritime Museum Astoria Aquatic Center Clatsop County Heritage Museum Fort Astoria Liberty Theater Oregon Film Museum Flavel House Maritime Memorial Park

City, rural routes

Astoria

Ridg

Camp Kiwanilong

State routes

2 miles

104

FORT STEVENS STATE PARK

U.S. highways

Parks and forests 101

Hammond

101

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

Colu

Astoria Megler Bridge

Jett

O ce an

ON INGT

H WAS GON ORE

Clatsop Spit

Pac ific

Legend

401

an e

COASTAL LIFE

101

CLARK’S DISMAL NITCH

8 JOHN WARREN FIELD

Sister Green Mountain 1,723 ft.

LEADBETTER POINT STATE PARK

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

Trails, walks Rivers Lakes, open water

101

ole R oa d

Parks and forests Municipal areas

Stackp

Willapa

Cities, townships

Bay Oysterville

Surfside Golf Course

No

m Ne N.

Nahcotta

rt h

Ocean Park

N

12

Willapa Bay

Blvd.

4

101

500 feet

Ilwaco Beach Hospital

N.

13

101

He ad

R oa

d

3

4

Spruce Street E.

Ri ver

Deep

100

101

6

0

0.5

1

2 miles

401

4

N

Baker Bay

.E.

Baker Bay

y

500 feet

Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group

WASH INGTO Cape N Chinook Disappointment OREG ON Lighthouse

STATE PARK

H

E.

e S.

u Aven

ILWACO CITY PARK

S Way

9 8 CAPE 7 DISAPPOINTMENT

Ilwaco

Detail, below right

Vall e

d R oa

North Head Lighthouse

100

rton owe

101

bor

Chinook

10

Second Avenue S.W.

101

Cedar Street N.E.

Lake Street S.E.

Main Street 4 S.W.

Seaview

103

Ilwaco High School H Ocean

Naselle

Sid Snyder Drive

ar ter H Elizabeth Ave. N.E. Ou

WNWR

Stoplight

World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame

N

Marsh’s Free Museum

Advent Ave. N.E.

PA C I F I C C O .

2

Brumbach Avenue N.E.

Long Beach

11

Long Beach Boardwalk

R iver

oad ver Pa rpa l a R

Sandridge Road

WNWR

CULBERTSON PARK

Second Street S. Third Street S.

i le R sel

P a ci fi c O ce a n

land

Pioneer Road

ha

Second Street N.

Bolstad Avenue

Na

Peninsula Golf Course

Detail, right

Stoplight

er Riv

N

g Is

Cranberry Road

em

Chetlo Harbor

Lon

103

Fifth Street N.

So ut h

WILLAPA NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

el

LOOMIS LAKE STATE PARK

a

Nahcotta Chann

227th Place

Klipsan Beach

h

Ro ad Mid em dle h a R i v er Ne mh a

101

Sixth Street N.

Pacific Avenue

Nemah

103

Ocean Beach

PACIFIC PINES STATE PARK

Boulevard Avenue

Joe Johns Road

Long Beach

Detail, above right

Discovery Trail

103

Discovery Trail

Surfside

Pacific Ocean

Oysterville Road

Leadbetter Point State Park World Kite Museum Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum Port of Ilwaco Knappton Cove Heritage Center Fort Columbia State Park North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse Cape Disappointment State Park Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center Discovery Trail Cranberry Museum Willapa Interpretive Art Trail Appelo Archive Center

Oregon Avenue N. Washington Street N.

nd

City, rural routes Be o u t h boundary SState

Oregon Avenue S. Washington Street S.

State routes

Idaho Avenue

Palix R oad

U.S. highways

WILLAPA NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

1

LONG BEACH PENINSULA

Legend

Ocean Beach Blvd.

BUSH PIONEER COUNTY PARK

5

Grays

Bay 127 DiscoverOurCoast.com H. AS W

.

RE

Gearhart Lane

COASTAL LIFE

Hillila Road

N. Marion Avenue

Summit Avenue

N. Cottage Avenue

GEARHART GOLF LINKS

101

Ocean

5. Seaside Carousel Mall 6. Saddle Mountain State Park 7. Tillamook Head

G Street

GEARHART OCEAN STATE PARK

d ay Dri N. H olla

Ne ca nicum Dr ive

Seaside Municipal Airport

Lewis and Clark Road

N. Wahann a

ve

Pacific

Seaside Museum & Historical Society Seaside Aquarium Sunset Empire Park & Rec. District The Turnaround

GEARHART

Avenue

SEASIDE-GEARHART 1.

2.

3.

4.

S. Ocean Avenue

Pacific Way

12th Avenue

2

4

6

m

0

R

Cannon Beach 128 Our CoastCLATSOP Magazine 2020 STATE FOREST

r

0.5

1

2 miles

26

Necanicum Junction 53

Avenue G

H

Providence Seaside Hospital

Avenue S 101

Legend U.S. highways City, rural routes State boundary Trails, walks Rivers

R oa

N

i ve

SADDLE MOUNTAIN STATE PARK

S ad d

Cannon Beach Junction

Broadway

State routes SEASIDE GOLF COURSE

l e Moun tai n

Twin Peaks 1,621 ft.

cu ani ec

101

d

Davis Point 1,559 ft.

g Ed

o ew

SEASIDE

S. Wahanna Road

rive Beach D

ECOLA STATE PARK

3

Street

S.

C LAT SO P C O .

7

ne River

Lewis & C lark Riv er

Seaside

ELMER FELDENHEIMER STATE NATURAL AREA

202

CLATSOP STATE FOREST

Sister Green Mountain 1,723 ft.

Ocean

Kla ska ni

Stree S. Downin t g

rk

iv er

od

Roa d Cla rk Lew is &

Gearhart

Pacific

g un

Area in detail

sR

o S. F ad Ro Saddl e M o u nt ai n

Yo

Fifth Avenue

5

202

101

1

Lakes, open water Parks and forests

N 1,000 feet

Municipal areas Cities, townships Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group

an

i cu m

26 ECOLA STATE PARK

101

Ra

da

1

rR

Klootchie Creek Campground

oa

d

Cannon Beach

CLATSOP STATE FOREST

TOLOVANA BEACH STATE RECREATION SITE

Detail, below left

Tolovana Park

nue

3 4

Rock Mountain 2,004 ft.

5

E. Monroe St.

Pacific

TILLAMOOK STATE FOREST

Shor t Sa nd C

OSWALD WEST STATE PARK

ad Ro

S. Hemlock Stree t

Onion Peak 3,064 ft.

r rossov e

N. Spruce Street

Pac

101

CLATSOP STATE FOREST

m

m

101

5. Neahkahnie Mountain 6. Haystack Rock Awareness Program 7. Cannon Beach History Center & Museum

El

Cannon Beach

Av

2

CLATSOP CO.

CSF

Ro

ad

Ocean

Arbor Lane

6

E. Blv Sun d. set

th F o No r

Legend U.S. highways

HAYSTACK HILL STATE PARK

County boundary

NEHALEM BAY STATE PARK

S. Pacific Street

S. Hemlock Street

1,000 feet

Rivers 101

Parks and forests Cities, townships

Nehalem Bay

Wheeler

Lakes, open water Municipal areas

53

Roy Creek Park

City, rural routes Trails, walks

N

Riv er

Nehalem

Manzanita

State routes

0 0.5 1

2 miles

Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group

Nehalem Spit

Haystack Rock

rk

Elk Creek Road

em

7

Sunset Blvd.

ha Ne k r Fo N. Nehal

le

LES SHIRLEY PARK

HUG POINT STATE RECREATION SITE

ific O cean

Ecola State Park Hug Point State Recreation Site Oswald West State Park Cape Falcon

e

1.

2.

3.

4.

ARCADIA BEACH STATE RECREATION SITE

R iver

CANNON BEACH & NORTH TILLAMOOK COUNTY

Ri ve r

101

TILLAMOOK CO. DiscoverOurCoast.com

129

OUR COAST MAGAZINE Animal Welfare

Animal Welfare

Come meet your next best friend and family member at the Clatsop County Animal Shelter!

Gearhart Indoor Dog Park

BUSINESS DIRECTORY Antiques

Farm and Garden

PHOG BOUNDERS ANTIQUE MALL

YEAR ROUND NURSERY

Bring in your best buddy for a day of play.

We have agility equipment, come take a look.

Must have immunization records

MON - SAT 10a-7p | SUN 2p - 5p rdogpark.com

3585 Hwy 101 N. 503.791.1656

55+Vendors Antiques • Nautical Items Glassware • Vintage Decor 892 Marine Drive, Astoria OR 97103

Follow us on

(503) 338-0101

503-861-7387 • 503-861-0737 • www.dogsncats.org Open 12-4 pm, Tues-Sat • 1315 SE 19th St., Warrenton

Doggy Daycare Mon-Fri Drop off on weekends

MORE THAN JUST ANTIQUES!

Fish and Seafood

Healthcare

Hobbies

Available for all of your routine healthcare needs, not just for emergency situations!

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Monday-Friday 7aM-7pM Saturday-Sunday 9aM-7pM

2120 Exchange Street, Suite 111

503-325-0333 www.urgentcarenwastoria.com Restaurants Excellence in family dining found from a family that has been serving the North Coast for the past 52 years SEASIDE • 323 Broadway • 738-7234 (Open 7 Days) CANNON BEACH • 223 S. Hemlock 436-2851 (7am-3pm Daily) ASTORIA • 146 W. Bond • 325-3144

130

Our Coast Magazine 2020

Specialty Shopping

GOLDEN WHALE JEWELRY Bridal • Gemstones • Silver Gold • Navaho • Earrings 14kt Gold & Sterling Charms Quality jewelry in gold and sterling silver by nationally known artists

194 N. Hemlock • Cannon Beach (503)436-1166 • (800)548-3918 OPEN DAILY

If you are looking for something unique, Visit the Golden Whale

Yarn, Fiber & Fun!

Classes, Events, Knit Night & More!

10 N. Holladay Drive Seaside • Oregon 503.717.5579 www.seasideyarnandfiber.com

Treats, Feed & Toys for Pets Livestock Supplies Wood Pellets & Fire Logs www.brimsfarmngarden.com 34963 Hwy. 101 Bus., Astoria, Oregon

Lodging and Travel BOREAS BED AND BREAKFAST INN

Trip Advisor 5-Star Certificate of Excellence since 2009

• Spectacular Ocean Views • Five Romantic Suites • Private Hot Tub By The Dunes • Gourmet Breakfast Included • Concierge Service 607 Ocean Beach Boulevard N. Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-8069 BOREASINN.COM

Travel and Tourism

Port of Ilwaco Port Port of of Ilwaco Ilwaco Long Beach Peninsula

DISCOVER THE DISCOVER THE DISCOVER THE

O N S O U T H W E S T WA S H I N GTO N ' S

O N S O U T H W E S T WA S H I N GTO N ' S O N S O U T H W E S T WA S H I N GTO N ' S

Englund Marine Marine Supply: Dining: Englund Marine Dining: Salt Pub Salt PubPub Waterline Dining: Waterline Pub Ilwaco SaltBakery Pub Ilwaco Bakery Waterline Pub Lodging: Ilwaco Bakery Lodging: Salt Hotel Salt AtLodging: the Hotel Helm At the Helm Salt Hotel At the Helm Charter Fishing:

Charter Fishing:

Coho Coho Charter Fishing: Seabreeze Seabreeze Coho Pacific Pacific Seabreeze Beacon Beacon Pacific Shake-n-Bake Shake-n-Bake Beacon Sportsfishing Sportsfishing Shake-n-Bake Sportsfishing

Shops/Galleries: Shops/Galleries: Time Enough Books

Don Gallery TimeNisbett EnoughArt Books Shops/Galleries: Don Nisbett Marie Powell Art Art Gallery Gallery Time Enough Books MarieShell Powell Art Arts Gallery Purly Fiber Don Nisbett Art Gallery Purly Shell Fiber Arts Jessie's Seafood Market Marie Powell Art Gallery Jessie's Seafood Market Sportsmen’s Cannery Purly Shell Fiber Arts Sportsmen’s Cannery Freedom Jessie'sMarket Seafood Market Freedom Market RiversZen Yoga Sportsmen’s Cannery RiversZen Yoga & Boat Tours Sky Water Gallery Freedom Market Sky Water & Boat Tours Luisa MackGallery Jewelry RiversZen Yoga & Art Luisa Mack Jewelry & Art David Jensen, Architect Sky E. Water Gallery & Boat Tours David E. Jensen, Architect Tre-Fin LuisaFoods Mack Jewelry & Art Tre-Fin Foods David E. Jensen, Architect Museums: Tre-Fin Foods Museums: Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum Museums: Lewis &&Clark Interpretive Center Lewis Clark Interpretive Center Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center

Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco, May-Sept.

Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco, May-Sept.

Saturday Market at the Port Plenty of vehicle and trailer of Ilwaco, May-Sept.

Plenty of vehicle and trailer parking parking Plenty of vehicle and trailer Self-service boatyard parking Self-service boatyard and haulout facility, and haulout5 facility, including indoor bays Self-service boatyard including 5 indoor bays and haulout facility, Renowned friendly, including 5 for indoor bays Renowned for friendly, helpful service helpful service Renowned for friendly, Live bait available helpful service Live bait available

Visit Visit Us!Us! Visit Us!

Local Businesses Local Businesses Local Businesses

Marine Supply: Marine EnglundSupply: Marine

Amenities/highlights Amenities/highlights Amenities/highlights

Long Beach Peninsula Long Beach Peninsula

Reserve slips online today: Reserve slips online today: portofilwaco.com

portofilwaco.com Reserve slips online today:

Learn more about area portofilwaco.com Learn more about area attractions & services: attractions & about services: visitlongbeachpeninsula.com Learn more area

visitlongbeachpeninsula.com attractions & services:

visitlongbeachpeninsula.com

Many downtown Ilwaco Many downtown Ilwaco businesses only blocks away Many downtown Ilwaco businesses only blocks away businesses only blocks away

Live bait available Wi-Fi available port-wide Wi-Fi available port-wide Wi-Fi available port-wide Public transit taxi Public transit && taxi available available Public transit & taxi available

AnnualEvents Events Annual Annual Events Ilwaco Children’s Parade - 1st Saturday in May, 12pm Ilwaco Children’s Parade - 1st Saturday in May, 12pm May--September September 10am 10am - 4pm May 4pm May#IlwacoSaturdayMarket - September 10am - 4pm #IlwacoSaturdayMarket #IlwacoSaturdayMarket

VisitLongBeachPeninsula.com VisitLongBeachPeninsula.com VisitLongBeachPeninsula.com

Ilwaco Children’s - 1st Saturday in May, 12pm PNW Sailing Days May 1-8 PNW Sailing Days-Parade - May 1-8 PNW Sailing Days - May 1-8 Firecracker 5K Run/Walk - 1st Saturday in July, 9am Firecracker 5K Run/Walk - 1st Saturday in July, 9am Firecracker 5K Run/Walk 1st Saturday in July, 9am Feel the Thunder Fireworks July 3rd, dusk Feel the Thunder Fireworks - July 3rd, dusk Feel the Thunder Fireworks -Weekend, July 3rd, dusk Slow of Rod Run 5pm SlowDrag Drag- -Friday Friday of Rod Run Weekend, 5pm Slow Drag Friday of Rod Run Weekend, 5pm Seafood Sundays Every Sunday in October Seafood Sundays - Every Sunday in October SeafoodChristmas Sundays --Every Sundayin inDecember October Crab 1st Saturday CrabPot Pot Christmas - 1st Saturday in December Crab Pot ChristmasMarket - 1st Saturday in December Waterfront - 2nd & 3rd weekend in Dec, 10-3 WaterfrontHoliday Holiday Market - 2nd & 3rd weekend in Dec, 10-3 Waterfront Holiday Market - 2nd & 3rd weekend in Dec, 10-3 Ilwaco Arts Friday, May - Sept, 4-7pm Ilwaco ArtsWalk Walk1st1st 1st Friday, May - Sept, 4-7pm Ilwaco Arts Walk Friday, May - Sept, 4-7pm

DiscoverIlwaco.com DiscoverIlwaco.com DiscoverIlwaco.com