5 minute read
Eternal Egypt
By Lucas Aykroyd
The ability to peel back the layers of its history through its magnificent monuments make this North African nation an intriguing destination full of ancient mysteries.
The Great Pyramid of Cheops weighs 5.75 million tons. As I gaze up at the giant limestone blocks on the edge of Cairo, the iconic silhouette feels even weightier against the blue-grey sky. I’m poised to enter the 4,500-year-old pyramid, climbing all the way to the pharaoh’s dim-lit burial chamber, where his granite coffin awaits. And I can truly feel the magic and mystery of ancient Egypt that I’ve dreamed of all my life.
As a child, I read dozens of Egypt-themed books. From comic books like Goscinny and Uderzo’s Asterix and Cleopatra to classic novels like E. Nesbit’s The Story of the Amulet, I loved them all. Treating myself to a November trip to this North African nation of 100 million people would bring the legends alive for me.
GREAT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA
Awe-inspiring monuments, both ancient and modern, abound from the banks of the Nile River to the Mediterranean coast. The seaside Alexandria Library — opened in 2002 as a tribute to the one built by Alexander the Great that tragically burned — features a huge, glass-panelled roof, whose shape evokes a rising sun. I marvel at the airy interior with five million items spread over 11 floors.
After indulging my love of literature, it’s time for a delicious lunch. At the Fish Market restaurant, I order fresh-caught, grilled bulti, a local fish with a delightfully creamy texture. It’s served with rice, spicy hummus, and baba ganoush. Washing it down with mint lemonade, I relish every bite as I look out over the marina from the eatery on the second floor.
Taking a seaside walk to Fort Qaitbey, a 15th-century castle erected by the titular Mamluk sultan on the site of the ancient Pharos lighthouse, further energizes me. From its charming LEGO-like exterior to the maze of dark rooms within, it’s an underrated attraction.
CITADEL OF QAITBAY IN ALEXANDRIA
Some 840 kilometres to the south, I revel in the ancient wonders near Aswan. At Abu Simbel, it’s hard to believe the gigantic temples celebrating the 67-year rule of Ramses II were relocated here by UNESCO in 1968 to avoid having them submerged by the opening of the Aswan High Dam. Today, monumental carvings of the New Kingdom pharaoh overlook the artificial Lake Nasser. I gleefully snap breathtaking photos on this 30 °C morning in the Sahara Desert.
GREAT TEMPLE OF ABU SIMBEL
Back in Aswan, I’m craving an authentic dining experience. I book a ride on a felucca, a traditional sailing boat, on the Nile to Elephantine Island. There, on the rooftop of a Nubian Muslim home, I feast on roast chicken, lentil soup, and eggplant cooked in tomatoes. The atmosphere beneath the black, starry sky is unforgettable.
More magic awaits at the Valley of the Kings outside Luxor. Encircled by stark cliffs, it’s home to more than 60 New Kingdom tombs, some dating back 3,500 years. While the dazzling colours that adorn Ramses VI’s tomb are enchanting, entering King Tutankhamun’s burial place hits me the hardest.
SEHEL ISLAND (ELEPHANTINE), NEAR ASWAN
Surrounded by paintings of sacred baboons and the boy pharaoh himself, I’m transported back to the time I first read about archaeologist Howard Carter’s 1922 discovery of Tut’s treasures. This is a genuine once-in-a-lifetime experience.
It’s a short drive to the mortuary temple of Hatshepsut, the first female pharaoh, who ruled circa 1479 to 1458 BC. The three colonnaded terraces are spectacular in their own right, but my favourite sight is a carving of Hathor — the coweared goddess of love, music, and beauty — that stands out serenely against the sky. Interestingly, Polish researchers have helped to restore this temple for the last 60 years.
The Colossi of Memnon, located in the nearby Theban Necropolis, perfectly embody the grandiosity of the ancient Egyptian imagination. Depicting Amenhotep III in a seated position, these two 18-metre-tall, quartzite sandstone figures evoke — even in their partially ruined state — the traditional belief that dead pharaohs were destined to become gods.
THE COLOSSI OF MEMNON
Returning to Luxor in the evening, I relax by strolling along the marble sidewalks of the waterfront Corniche promenade. I browse through a silver merchant’s store selling luxuriously crafted cartouche necklaces with hieroglyphics and buy an English translation of Ibrahim Essa’s acclaimed 2012 novel The Televangelist at the century-old Aboudi Bookstore.
A morning tour of Karnak, just outside Luxor, provides more fantastic visions. I could easily spend days, not just hours, at this sprawling temple complex. The Great Hypostyle Hall, featuring 134 giant columns modelled on papyrus flowers, spans some 5,000 square metres and honours Amon-Ra, the god of sun and fertility. Next to the Sacred Lake, a bold granite obelisk pays tribute to Hatshepsut.
VALLEY OF THE KINGS
At times, it’s amusing to see how the pharaohs indulged their considerable egos in an era long before cable networks or social media. Multiple Karnak carvings and inscriptions bombastically proclaim the victory of Ramses II over the Hittites at the Battle of Kadesh in 1274 BC — even though it’s not actually clear the Egyptians won.
Yet that’s the power of storytelling. In our rapidly changing world, these monuments have endured for thousands of years. It reflects the grip that eternal Egypt exercises on our imaginations. There’s something comforting about that. When I go home, I’ll reread Hergé’s Cigars of the Pharaoh and Zilpha Keatley Snyder’s The Egypt Game with fresh eyes. Metaphorically speaking, it’s like sailing the length of the 6,650-kilometre Nile. There’s always more to discover about Egypt.
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A NILE RIVER CRUISE WITH UNIWORLD BOUTIQUE RIVER CRUISES
Uniworld’s 12-day Splendors of Egypt & The Nile river cruise is a splendid way to explore Egypt in a manner once reserved for queens and pharaohs. This captivating itinerary begins and ends in Cairo, where you’ll visit the famous Egyptian Museum and its collection of pharaonic artifacts, and gaze upon the ancient pyramids and the enigmatic Sphinx. During your cruise, you’ll experience the most wondrous sites in style and luxury, including the towering ruins of the Temple of Karnak, the Valley of the Kings and the Colossi of Memnon. You’ll also enjoy an exhilarating ride in a felucca, a traditional Nile River sailboat. An enchanting land of marvels, myths, and wonders old and new, Egypt is an extraordinary destination culturally curious travellers won’t want to miss.
