Range: Volume 3

Summer 2023

AUSTRALIA / ECUADOR / ICELAND / THAILAND By

LUXURIOUS LANDSCAPES Across the dunes of the Arabian Peninsula

Silversea’s intimate, all-suite ships take you deeper into the world’s authentic beauty with a seamless attention to detail and immersive insight. Elevating the whispered Italian luxury enjoyed on board is a truly all-inclusive offering unmatched in ultraluxury cruising. From private executive transfers from home to a rich collection of shore excursions in every port of call, Silversea’s itineraries reveal the iconic and undiscovered, exploring more than 900 destinations across all seven continents. All aboard stateof-the-art Ocean-going and ice-class Expedition vessels.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL TO PLAN YOUR NEXT VACATION Experience Authentic Beauty with Silversea Cruises Place your camera in front of the QR Code and follow the link.

For some smartphones a QR Reader would be needed.

GO TO THE ENDS OF THE EARTH DISCOVER THE ALL-INCLUSIVE LUXURY EXPERIENCE OF SILVERSEA

ANTARCTICA | Behold the wonders of the Great White

THE ARCTIC | Kissed by the midnight sun’s ethereal

Continent – fascinating ice, penguins and incredible wildlife, epic scenery and otherworldly beauty. From the Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetland Islands to South Georgia and the Falkland Islands, Silversea gets you closer to this fascinating part of the world.

warmth, the Arctic’s brief summer thaw is an invitation to explore Svalbard, Iceland, Greenland, and the Canadian High Arctic. Come search for polar bears, take a Zodiac to remote Inuit communities, or kayak glacial seas to see incredible wildlife and stunning landscapes.

Silver Cloud

Silver Wind

Silver Endeavour

What’s Inside

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From our Editorial Director

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Contributors

In Brief

13 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Interview

18 We catch up with world explorer Mike Horn.

Packing List

20 Everything you need for your summer city breaks.

On the Cover

Will Travel For

The golden dunes of the Rub’ al Khali, or Empty Quarter, stretch for miles — 250,000 square miles, in fact. This largely unexplored desert is one of the driest regions in the world, receiving less than 1.2 inches of rain per year.

Photo by Ben Roberts

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23 Icy treats! From Filipino halo-halo to Sicilian granita.

Rail Returns

24 Slow, scenic sleeper train journeys are on the rise.

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PHOTOS: RUTH TROUGHTON/UNSPLASH; CHRIS BRINLEE JR. (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

PHOTOS: DAVID CHATFIELD (FEATURES); KIYOSHI/UNSPLASH (WHERE NEXT).

Features

Saving Koalas in Queensland

Where Next

30 How travelers are joining the fight to aid the Australian icon.

The Portuguese Treatment

38 Writer J.R. Patterson dives into Portugal’s restorative waters on a countrywide tour of its spas and springs.

The Land of Sand

44 Photographer Ben Roberts transports us to the mesmerizing Empty Quarter outside Abu Dhabi.

In Search of Iceland’s Hidden People 54

The island nation’s otherworldly landscapes and enduring foundation in folklore only add to its magic.

A Perfect Day In

66 We’ve got your morning, afternoon and evening plans sorted in Monterey County — and, if you want to spend the night, we know just the place.

Ask a Local

72 Tropic Ecuador’s Jascivan Carvalho takes you on an unexpected tour of his home country.

Port of Call

74 Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Bridgetown.

Outtake

82 One more moment in travel.

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2 QUEEN STREET EAST 2 0 TH F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7

EDITORIAL

PRODUCTION

Editorial Director

Managing Editor and Senior Marketing Manager

Publisher

Valerie Lenoir

Jeff Willner

Sydney Loney Executive Editor

Dominique Lamberton Contributing Editor

Andrew Elkin ART Design Director

Stefanie Sosiak Photo Editor

Printer

President

Mi5

Michael Johnson

SALES VP, Partnership Marketing

Wendy Romanow wendy.romanow@ensembletravel.com

Lori Morgan

Director, Partnership Marketing (Cruise)

Contributing Art Director

Rachel Grogan

Brian Morgan

rachel.grogan@ensembletravel.com

CONTRIBUTORS David Chatfield, Katherine Holland, Jessica Wynne Lockhart, Claire McCracken, Truc Nguyen, J.R. Patterson, Ben Roberts, Leah Rumack, Elli Stühler

Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

RESEARCHERS Martha Beach, Aimi Mayne, Amber McLinden, Victoria Paulus

Franca Iuele franca.iuele@ensembletravel.com

Director, Partnership Marketing (Hotel)

Danielle Clement danielle.clement@ensembletravel.com

Executive Chairman

David Harris SVP, Marketing

Shahla Lalani SVP, Operations

Kristina Boyce SVP, Partner Relations

Jennifer Dzialo

What is Ensemble?

Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

COPY EDITORS Christopher Korchin, Robert Ronald PROOFREADER Diane Carlson

Range (Summer 2023). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel® Group.

Sustainable Practices Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100% sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification) chain of custody certified, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems.

No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel® Group member agencies.

TICO: #50022140 | CST: 2141530-70 Registration numbers vary by agency.

Advertising and marketing enquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com.

For editorial inquiries, please email editor@ensembletravel.ca.

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The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff.

E XQ U I S I T E LY C R A F T E D C U I S I N E .

The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time.

C U R AT E D T R AV E L E X PE R I E N C E S .

The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine.

It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

S M A L L S H I P LUXU RY.

Dive Deeper on a Bucket List Trip Uncover Experiences You’ll Never Forget Join a National Geographic photographer for photo tips during your close encounters with penguins in Antarctica. Float along a lake in Zimbabwe aboard a privately chartered safari boat. Explore the seemingly undiscovered corners of Argentina and Chile, from the countryside to the fjords.

These are the moments that make the journey.

Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent 14 days | 34 meals

Wilderness of Southern Africa: Safari by Land & Water 15 days | 33 meals

Patagonia: Edge of the World 14 days | 24 meals

Booking Confidently You can book confidently knowing that when you purchase Collette’s industry-leading Travel Protection Plan, you can cancel for any reason and get a full money back refund, all the way up to 24 hours prior to departure.*

CONTACT YOUR PREFERRED TRAVEL AGENT TO BOOK TODAY. *If you choose to cancel your tour, a refund will be issued in the original form of payment, minus the cost of your deposit. Other restrictions may apply. Visit collette.com/travelprotection for full details of insurance policy and benefits.

PHOTO: KATHERINE HOLLAND.

Travel for a Change

I enjoy a good “fly and flop” as much as anybody, but it doesn’t take long before I start to fidget. I want to go places. Meet people.

Do things. I blame my parents.

When I was 12, they took me and my brothers to the Dominican Republic. I know we stayed at a resort with a fancy pool, but we didn’t spend much time there. Instead, every morning we’d wait at the side of a dusty road, flag down a decrepit bus (standing-room only due to the jumble of people, chickens and, once, a pig, on board) and set off to explore a different part of the country. Ever since, my favorite adventures have been those that involve a quest for uncharted experiences — and I’ve always felt that I return home slightly more evolved than when I left.

And yet I recently read an essay in The New Yorker that was dismissive of travel, and of the impact it can have. The author argues that travel is nothing more than a change of scenery. We leave. We come home. We are unchanged — and we are deluding ourselves if we think otherwise. “Travel is a boomerang,” she writes. “It drops you right where you started.”

What a sad way of seeing how we move through the world!

Instead, I believe we are inevitably shaped by our environment and our experiences –– especially when those experiences disrupt the safe ordinariness of our everyday routines.

One country that changed how I see both the world and my place in it is Jordan. I’ve visited twice, once to cover the Syrian refugee crisis for a national newspaper and again as a guest with a luxury tour company founded on the principle of mindful travel.

Years later, I still think about what I saw, and did, and, most of all, learned from the people I met on those trips.

Science tells us that travel improves your personality and strengthens your sense of self. Researchers at the Columbia Business School found that navigating new places and engaging with different cultures rewires your brain and makes you more creative. Monet’s travels inspired his most magical paintings.

Hemingway was born in Illinois, but The Sun Also Rises wouldn’t exist had he not traveled to France and Spain.

Travel makes us better. And we hope that this issue of Range (which, you may notice, has also evolved) inspires you to embark on a new, rich, defining experience — the kind that can only be found through travel. 

Sydney Loney Editorial Director

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

What trip changed you for the better?

I’d love to hear about it at editor@ensembletravel.ca.

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Truc Nguyen

Elli Stühler

Hometown and home base Toronto

Hometown Vancouver

I can’t travel without comfortable shoes. I’m a huge fan of Allbirds Wool Loungers, which are lightweight and super versatile year-round. I have worn mine hiking in the Pacific Northwest, driving around Los Angeles and even to the beach in Newfoundland. When I’m not collaborating with Range, I’m busy juggling communications work and multiple freelance deadlines — or, you’ll find me hiking or foraging for mushrooms in the woods with my family.

Home base Berlin

WRITER

Port of Call: Bridgetown – page 74

WRITER

Ben Roberts P H OTO G R A P H E R Hometown Birmingham, U.K. Home base The Sierra de Guadarrama in Spain My next getaway is a camping trip to Scotland with my son and father, where we’ll take in the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships in Glasgow. I’m also looking forward to guiding my six-year-old son up his first Munro, the name given to any Scottish mountain over 3,000 feet high. When I’m not collaborating with Range, I work on travel, culture and documentary stories for clients including Monocle, The New York Times and Patek Philippe.

The Land of Sand – page 44

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My favorite travel companion is my husband, Kristian, for tolerating my chaotic nature and sharing my passion for train travel. He’s an excellent train buddy: He always has TV shows downloaded on his iPad and knows exactly when to head to the restaurant car for snacks. When I’m not collaborating with Range, I work as a brand copywriter and verbal strategist — in other words, I help brands define their voice and tell their story. It’s the perfect job for an avid traveler because all I need is Wi-Fi. Rail Returns – page 24

PHOTOS: JEREMIE DUPONT (TRUC NGUYEN); FRANCHESKA MELENDEZ (BEN ROBERTS); ALISA CONNAN (ELLI STÜHLER).

Contributors

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON. PHOTO: COURTESY OF CARLTON CANNES.

GOING PLACES

WHAT’S NEW

Make a Splash in Cannes The legendary Carlton Cannes, a stomping ground for the stars during the Cannes Film Festival, has dazzled travelers since its doors first opened in 1913. Now, it’s shining even brighter: The historic hotel with its Belle Époque façade recently reopened on Boulevard de la Croisette following a multi-year renovation that includes two new luxury wings, a sprawling garden courtyard with 22,000 plant and flower species, and a shimmering infinity pool — the largest in Cannes.

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GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

INSIDE SCOOP

Ensemble Travel Advisor Lauren Doyle Raleigh, North Carolina

ON TREND

Set-jetting If you booked a trip to Taormina, Sicily, after bingeing season two of The White Lotus, you’re in good company: A 2023 travel trends report reveals that 64 percent of travelers are inspired to visit a destination after seeing it on a TV show, in a news source or in a film. This renewed interest in “set-jetting” has led to a surge in popularity for places like England and Scotland (The Crown), Paris (Emily in Paris) and Alberta (The Last of Us), thanks to their on-screen roles.

TRAVEL SIZE

Keep Your Skincare Regimen Intact Female-founded Cadence has launched a new customizable system for its refillable, recycled-plastic travel containers, ensuring you have a spot for every serum, toner and mask in your lineup. The leakproof magnetic capsules now come in a variety of TSA-approved sizes — just choose the number of capsules, the colors and the labels for a collection that’s all your own.

From US$98, keepyourcadence.com

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON. PHOTOS: RUTH TROUGHTON/UNSPLASH (ON TREND); COURTESY OF CADENCE (TRAVEL SIZE).

“The White Lotus is all the rage, and we have planned vacations for clients to both the destinations featured in the two seasons. I can’t wait to see the next spot they pick (I hear it’s Thailand!).”

GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

LOCAL LINGO

Utepils

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF PRINDSEN HAGE (LOCAL LINGO); COURTESY OF ASSOULINE (MUST-HAVE); JULIAN LIGHT (IN THE AIR).

(n.) Visiting Norway this summer? Prepare for an utepils (pronounced “ooh-ta-pilz”). The Norwegian word, which translates to “outdoor lager,” describes the act of sitting outside on a sunny day and enjoying a beer. Oslo’s Prindsen Hage, a 1,400-seat beer garden with lawn games, food vendors and live music, is just the place for your first utepils.

MUST-HAVE

Cairo on Your Coffee Table With this gorgeous tome, you’ll be transported to the electric streets of Cairo — the first Egyptian destination in Assouline’s coveted Travel Series.

Colorful, immersive photography and illustrations pair with captivating storytelling from Cairo-based author Mai Eldib to take you on a vibrant journey through the bazaars, pyramids and modern skyscrapers that make up the ever-evolving capital.

Cairo Eternal, US$105, assouline.com

IN THE AIR

Sleeper Pods for All The luxury of lying down is coming to economy: Air New Zealand’s pioneering Skynest bunks will be available on long-haul routes, including the nearly 18-hour New York to Auckland non-stop, as of September 2024. Spots in the new six-pod sleep zone can be booked for four-hour stints (covering two full sleep cycles, if you’re lucky), and will include a full-size pillow, bedding, earplugs, reading light and USB outlet. Sweet dreams!

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GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

Sustainable Stays To help guests check into properties that prioritize the planet, the Global Hotel Alliance (the world’s largest consortium of independent hotel brands, including Anantara, Corinthia and Pan Pacific) has launched the Green Collection — nearly 200 hotels that focus on social and sustainable responsibility.

To qualify, hotels need at least one certification from a global environmental organization, such as EarthCheck, Green Growth 2050, Green Seal, Green Globe or LEED.

CRUISE NEWS

Around the World in 140 Days Silversea recently announced its world cruise for 2026 — and it’s the cruise line’s most diverse and immersive voyage yet. The Curious and the Sea will sail Silver Dawn to 70 destinations in 37 countries over 140 days. Inspired by seafarers of yore who set off to explore faraway lands, the itinerary includes island-hopping in the South Pacific, travel through both the Panama and Suez Canals and — a first for Silversea — a 21-day semi-circumnavigation of Australia.

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON. PHOTOS: COURTESY OF GLOBAL HOTEL ALLIANCE/PARKROYAL COLLECTION MARINA BAY, SINGAPORE (EARTH FRIENDLY); COURTESY OF SILVERSEA CRUISES (CRUISE NEWS).

EARTH FRIENDLY

PACK MEMORIES, NOT SUITCASES When you cruise Europe with Norwegian, you’ll unpack once and wake up to a new, iconic city nearly every day. With the most

port-rich itineraries and overnight stays, you’ll have plenty of time to explore. Soak in a stunning sunset in Santorini. Or stroll through a vineyard in Tuscany — with a glass of wine in hand! Back on board, recount your incredible day over dinner at one

of our many specialty restaurants, catch a Broadway show or simply relax in our spa. Plus, you get the best value at sea with Norwegian’s all-inclusive Free At Sea.

CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK YOUR NCL CRUISE TODAY. ^Buy an air ticket and the 2nd guest flies for free. *See full terms and conditions at ncl.com/fasoffer. ©2023 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA. 790247 6/23

Garden Villa

Norwegian Prima, Norway

Florence, Italy

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INTERVIEW

PHOTO: CHRIS BRINLEE JR.

GOING PLACES

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GOING PLACES

Mike Horn

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INTERVIEW

Q&A Range Tell us about your expedition, What’s Left.

Mike Horn The goal of What’s Left is to shed light on pressing environmental issues and to inspire action towards a more sustainable future. We’re headed to various regions around the globe, focusing on areas that are particularly vulnerable to the effects of climate change and human impact. The expedition aims to tackle issues such as deforestation, ocean pollution, loss of biodiversity and the consequences of global warming.

R What’s life like aboard Pangaea?

MH It is a well-orchestrated routine that revolves around exploration and teamwork. On a typical day, my crew and I conduct environmental assessments, document our findings and engage with local communities.

R For someone who isn’t used to cruising or sailing, any tips on how to find your sea legs?

MH Life at sea can be both enchanting and demanding.

My advice is to embrace the journey with an open mind and a willingness to adapt. Building your sea legs takes time, so start by spending time on the deck, getting accustomed to the motion of the ship. Above all, be prepared for the unexpected, and appreciate the unique serenity that comes with life at sea.

The renowned Swiss-South African explorer chats about his latest environmental expedition, life at sea and how to travel more sustainably.

By Dominique Lamberton

I

In 1997, Mike Horn set out on his first major expedition: a 4,350-mile, 171-day solo journey across South America.

Since then, the professional explorer has traversed the Arctic in the dark, crossed Antarctica by himself and clocked more than 100,000 miles on land and sea. But there’s still more to do. In May, Horn embarked on his latest odyssey, What’s Left, a four-year-long environmental voyage that has him circumnavigating the globe once again.

“The sheer diversity of landscapes, cultures and wildlife on our planet continues to leave me in awe,” Horn says.

Now, he’s bringing that sense of wonder to fellow travelers as a brand ambassador for new luxury cruise line Explora Journeys, developing itineraries that prioritize environmental conservation, cultural exchange and exploration.

In September, Horn will swap his 115-foot icebreaker sailing yacht, Pangaea, for Explora I during its leg along the coast of Greenland, leading hikes in Paamiut and Qaqortoq. “We want to create transformative journeys that not only provide unforgettable experiences for guests but also contribute to the preservation of the destinations we visit.”

R Your Pangaea X program kick-starts youth climate projects. Why is this important to you?

MH Empowering and educating the next generation is essential for long-term environmental change. Through Pangaea X, we support young people in taking an active role in addressing the climate crisis. By investing in their ideas, projects and initiatives, we’re creating a network of change-makers who can make a real difference in their communities and beyond.

R What’s your advice for traveling the world in a sustainable and meaningful way?

MH I like to prioritize quality over quantity by selecting fewer destinations and spending time exploring each one in depth. You can also seek out community-based tourism initiatives that respect and support the local culture, economy and environment. At the same time, try to engage in meaningful interactions with locals, learning from their experiences and understanding their perspectives. And embrace responsible travel practices, such as minimizing waste, conserving water and energy, and respecting wildlife and natural habitats. 

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GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Summer in Any City Whether you’re museum-hopping in London or touring temples in Tokyo, these stylish, go-anywhere essentials will elevate your next urban getaway.

Lightweight Sneaks

Sunny Specs

Compact Camera

Recycled-cotton canvas sneakers (in both women’s and men’s sizes) transport you from a day of sightseeing to a casual night out.

A classic shape paired with chunky marigold acetate makes for a sophisticated frame on any face.

Potter, US$125 oqspecs.com

This travel-friendly camera captures sharp stills and 4K video, then wirelessly connects with a smartphone app for easy sharing.

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D-Lux 7 Silver, US$1,395 leicacamerausa.com

Cool Cap

More than a Map

Fresh Water

Shade yourself from the sun with a bold unisex cotton cap that will have you turning heads on every corner.

Eden Baseball Cap, US$130 apc-us.com

Discover new sights with graphic city maps that chart everything from the trees of Paris to the modernist architecture across San Francisco.

Maps, from US$12 bluecrowmedia.com

Hit the streets with an Earthfriendly bottle equipped with a built-in filtration system for greattasting water everywhere you go.

Bottle Filtered, from US$58 livelarq.com

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON.

The Tread-Bare Sneaker US$130, everlane.com

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Coveted Carryall Perfect for a packed urban itinerary, this luxurious yet easygoing canvas and leather bag, inspired by equestrian girths, holds everything you need (or collect) along the way.

Pursangle Tote Bag, US$3,675 hermes.com

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EX PLOR E THE UNR I VA LED ™ Heading inland in the afternoon, we made our way to a beautiful temple.

It was a work of art. But as our tour ended, the setting sun stole the show.

Rays of light flickered across rice fields shelved into the sides of nearby hills like something from a movie. It was simply magical. I’ll never forget it.

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

Icy Treats When it’s hot, shaved-ice desserts refresh across the globe.

Here are three worth planning a trip around.

By Dominique Lamberton

JAPAN

PHOTOS: ANDREW BUI (HALO-HALO); PICMENT/ADOBE STOCK (KAKIGŌRI); ITALIANFOODPROD/ADOBE STOCK (GRANITA).

Kakigōri A treat that dates back to the Heian period over 1,000 years ago, kakigōri was once reserved for the well-to-do, since it required sourcing natural ice blocks and keeping them frozen. Today, the finely shaved ice topped with flavored syrups, like matcha and melon, is big all over Japan. Where to try it: Tokyo’s Azuki to Kouri takes kakigōri to the next level with its artful approach courtesy of pastry chef Miho Horio.

ITALY

Granita Siciliana PHILIPPINES

Halo-Halo Halo-halo, which translates to“mix-mix” in Tagalog, is a mingling of colorful ingredients layered into a clear cup that results in the most delightful looking dessert. Its foundation is shaved ice and evaporated milk, and its beginnings can be traced to Japanese immigrants, who brought the dishes mitsumame and kakigōri (see top right) to the country in the early 1900s. Filipinos made them their own, adding syrupy fruit, jellies, coconut and the obligatory topper of ube ice cream. Where to try it: Milky Way Café, in Metro Manila, began as a dairy bar in the 1950s, so its halo-halo is crowned with a housemade scoop.

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Like kakigōri, granita has been around for centuries: In the Middle Ages, men known as the nivaroli collected snow from Sicilian mountaintops, stored it underground, then brought it to the beaches in the summer, where it was grated and doused in lemon juice and sweet syrups. Where to try it: Don Peppinu, with locations across Sicily, is known for its award-winning gelato and granita. Lemon is the traditional flavor, but almond is most popular.

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THAILAND

PHOTO: MATTHEW YONG (UNSPLASH).

GOING PLACES

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GOING PLACES

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THAILAND

Rail Returns Slow, refined and endlessly scenic: Writer Elli Stühler takes us through Thailand by train.

I

don’t have many rules for travel, but there’s one I try to keep: take fewer short-haul domestic flights. It’s informed by a sense of duty to the environment and my growing exhaustion at the prospect of flying. With train travel, there’s no need to arrive hours in advance or decant your toiletries into tiny bottles. The romance of rail holds strong.

I’m not the only one wising up to this: More and more sleeper services are linking disparate points on the map with new connections.

The new European Sleeper connects Berlin via Amsterdam to Brussels. In Mexico, the Tren Maya, due to launch in December, will run along a 950-mile route, transporting travelers from tourist hubs like Cancún to cultural sites in the region.

In Europe, where I live, my travel rule has become an endless source of adventure. I’ve voyaged from Berlin to Bologna, watching Alpine chalets give way to rustic Italian farmhouses. And I don’t think I’ll ever get over the thrill of emerging on the other end of the English Channel aboard the Eurostar.

But in Thailand, where I’m about to embark on my greatest rail journey yet — a 17-and-ahalf-hour trip from Bangkok to Hat Yai, a city

Three Luxury Train Journeys

near the Malaysian border — I only hope my love for train travel will last the trip.

The journey begins at Krung Thep Aphiwat, a brand-new terminal in central Bangkok that’s part of a US$21-billion plan to invest in the kingdom’s rail infrastructure and reduce pollution. Just before 3 p.m., my husband and I board the Special Express 31 train and settle into our seats in an air-conditioned, open-compartment, second-class coach.

Outside, the skyscrapers of Bangkok fade away, replaced by bustling markets and sleepy villages. The sun casts a golden glow on the watery rice paddies and steep hills in the distance. We see small cows and huge lizards. A troupe of monkeys dangles from telephone wires.

When we pull into stations, hawkers rush aboard to sell street food from the train’s corridors. At Ratchaburi, an older woman with spectacularly high hair buys several stacks of Styrofoam boxes from a vendor and hands them out to fellow passengers, including us. Our Duolingo Thai is terrible, and she doesn’t speak English, but she gestures emphatically for us to tuck in. The thin rice noodles are simultaneously sweet, spicy

and citrusy. All we have to offer in return are Oreos and potato chips, which feels like an inadequate response to her generosity. (She politely declines.)

When night falls, the train staff briskly unfold our seats, transforming them into narrow sleeping berths. Nestled in my bunk, the curtains pulled around me, I feel safely cocooned as the train trundles ahead. The lights stay on overnight, but a sleeping mask does the trick. The only thing I’m missing is earplugs to drown out the not-so-gentle snoring of our noodle lady nearby.

Although we’re traveling at a speed of 50 miles per hour, my train window gives me a glimpse of Thailand I wouldn’t have seen otherwise, certainly not from the air.

At ground level, I watch brightly colored temples come and go while snacking on street food that would never find its way to a tray table at 35,000 feet. Around 6 a.m., I wriggle into my husband’s bunk and we spend the next hour watching southern Thailand wake up, bathed in morning light.

To think, I could have bought a plane ticket and missed all this. Some rules just aren’t meant to be broken. 

2 days: Rockies to the Red Rocks

4 days: Scotland’s Classic Splendours

11 days: Heritage of India

Rocky Mountaineer

Belmond Royal Scotsman

Maharajas’ Express

The journey between Denver and Moab, Utah, takes you across the Continental Divide, with striking canyons, mountain peaks and hoodoos to absorb along the way.

As you tour Scotland’s east coast and Highlands, including visits to Glamis Castle and Blair Athol Distillery, be sure to stop in for a treatment at the onboard Dior Spa Royal Scotsman.

Board the elegant, nearly half-milelong Maharajas’ Express for the trip from Mumbai to Delhi, enjoying outings like a boat ride on Lake Pichola and a Taj Mahal tour en route.

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Port Antonio

Haute Jamaica Experience unparalleled luxury on an island where soul meets sophistication.

Welcome to Jamaica, where awe-inspiring scenery and bespoke experiences deliver memories that will last a lifetime. From elegant resorts and tailor-made tours to rum tastings and alfresco dinners, Jamaica promises an unrivaled level of service and warm hospitality that will exceed every expectation on your next vacation.

Wining and Dining From farm tours to rum distillery visits, Jamaica serves up refined culinary experiences for every taste.

History, food and culture come together at Devon House, a 19th-century Caribbean and Georgian mansion originally owned by Jamaica’s first Black millionaire. Today, this gastronomic center in Kingston is home to an array of Jamaican and international eateries, including the world-famous Devon House I-Scream, known for scooping flavors like mango, coffee and seasonal sorrel.

Nestled in the heart of Jamaica’s Blue Mountains, Stush in the Bush is an unforgettable farm-totable destination. Enjoy a tour of the 15-acre organic farm before tucking into a homegrown vegetarian menu, which may include a Jamaican mezze spread with plantain chips and jackfruitseed hummus, on a deck above the tree canopy.

Tucked away in the Nassau Valley, where stalks of sugarcane sway in the breeze, you’ll find the famed Appleton Estate Rum Distillery. The multisensory tasting experience will take you on a spirited walking tour to learn about the distillery’s signature “cane to cocktail” process before capping off with a visit to the tasting room.

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Sophisticated Stays

Chukka Caribbean Adventures

Unforgettable Experiences Whether you’re looking for thrills or want to chill, Jamaica’s scenic landscapes are a playground waiting to be discovered.

On the water… Tour operator Island Routes designs tailor-made itineraries showcasing the beauty and culture of the island. Luxury catamaran charters, deep-sea fishing and night cruises to the Luminous Lagoon are just a few of the experiences on offer.

On land… Jamaica’s largest natureadventure tour operator, Chukka Caribbean Adventures, provides custom experiences for couples and private groups, such as horseback riding, ATV outings and ziplining over Dunn’s River Falls.

At the spa… Fern Tree Spa at Half Moon offers centuries-old Jamaican healing traditions in a garden-oasis setting. Start with the soothing Jamaican Bush Bath, steeped with fresh herbs, roots, leaves and fruits, before getting reinvigorated with the Coffee Coconut Scrub featuring Jamaica’s signature Blue Mountain beans.

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The Trident Hotel

A-list celebrities, royals and discerning travelers head to this chic resort for its lush gardens and two miles of private beachfront. The property is home to 210 elegant guest rooms and suites, and 27 private villas complete with outdoor living spaces, swimming pools and even private chefs.

Set along the pristine shoreline of Port Antonio, this off-the-beaten-path property’s 11 glamorous villas are decked out in mid-century-modern decor.

Walk or relax on the secluded beach, where remarkable marine life such as starfish and sea turtles can be spotted beneath the turquoise waters.

Round Hill Hotel & Villas Jamaica Inn This legendary boutique hotel has been transporting guests to the golden age for 65 years. Its enchanting suites and cottages with spacious furnished verandas and balconies along a sandy private beach deliver relaxed glamor and timeless elegance.

This 110-acre enclave features sprawling villas and tastefully appointed oceanfront rooms designed by Ralph Lauren.

Seaside dining from award-winning chef Martin Maginley, who incorporates produce from the on-site organic garden, and an exquisite spa nestled in the tropical hillside add to the VIP experience.

Destination Jamaica and Ensemble have come together to launch Luxury in Jamaica.

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A voyage like no other The Cunard® Queens call at iconic cities and tropical islands, they delve further into regions to explore more, and they still find ports to visit for the very first time. We have celebrated a centenary of the World Voyage. Our classic red and black funnels are recognized around the globe.

We are proud of our signature White Star Service.TM You’ll feel like royalty from the minute you step on board as you are greeted by your ship’s dapper-uniformed bellhops. Your time is then yours to spend exactly as you wish. Collect your postcard-worthy Cunard moments.

© 2023 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth, Queen Anne, and White Star Service are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

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AUSTRALIA

Saving Koalas in Queensland B y J e s s i c a Wy n n e L o c k h a r t — P h o t o s by D a v i d C h a t f i e l d

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Wildlife rescuers, veterinarians and researchers are working to protect Australia’s now-endangered koalas — and travelers are a big part of the mission.

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AUSTRALIA

F

rom Steve Irwin Way on the Sunshine Coast, you can’t miss the turnoff to Australia Zoo. A giant cutout of the Crocodile Hunter himself heralds the way and, even midweek, the parking lot overflows with visitors who queue to see the zoo’s crocodile shows or hope to catch a glimpse of its celebrity owners. (Irwin’s wife, Terri, and adult children, Bindi and Robert, are as beloved as their late husband and father.)

I’m not here for either of these sightings, or a snake selfie or the chance to hand-feed wallabies. Instead, I zip past the crowds and head in the opposite direction of the zoo entrance. There, I find a building that’s considerably more modest.

This is the Australia Zoo Wildlife Hospital, one of the largest of its kind in the world. Walking through the state-of-the-art facility, I meet some of the patients: Margie, a green turtle doing laps in a pool, shows strong signs of recovery after a boat collision. Olaf, a common brushtail possum with mange, is nestled in the nursery. And Grace Jones, a young female koala being treated for multiple illnesses, peers at me sweetly from her perch. She’s just one of the 800 koalas that the hospital helps every year.

South East Queensland is koala central. Stretching from the Gold Coast to the Sunshine Coast, the region of golden beaches, ancient volcanic peaks and lush rainforest is where the very first koala-themed tourist attraction opened in 1927: Brisbane’s Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, which is still in operation today. It was right around this time that koalas ascended to Australian icon status. Today, the cuddly creatures are estimated to generate about AUD$3.2 billion annually and contribute to 30,000 tourism industry jobs.

On my first trip to Australia, in 2006, I hiked through Noosa National Park on the Sunshine Coast’s northern edge. Considered a koala haven, it was easy to spot them clinging to the trees high above. But, in recent years, the koalas have vanished from Noosa. In just a decade, they’ve gone from being a common critter around the country to one facing extinction. Last year, the marsupial was named an endangered species in Queensland, New South Wales and the Australian Capital Territory. Once thought to number in the millions, there are now as few as 32,000 koalas remaining in the wild.

Habitat loss is the biggest threat koalas face. It’s a problem that began with colonization — when koalas were hunted for their soft pelts, forests were felled for timber and land was cleared for farms — and persists today. In 2019, more than 90,000 hectares of Queensland’s koala territory was destroyed, primarily for beef production. (Mercifully, South East Queensland was relatively unscathed by the catastrophic bushfires in 2020, which killed an estimated 61,000 koalas elsewhere in the country.)

With gut biomes that are only capable of digesting eucalyptus specific to their region, the koala’s highly specialized diet is one of the reasons habitat loss has such an impact, says Ludovica Valenza, a wildlife veterinarian at the Australia Zoo Wildlife Hospital. “They’re also hit by cars, attacked by dogs,

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OPENING SPREAD A female koala kicks back and relaxes at Australia Zoo (the marsupials nap up to 20 hours a day); guide Steve “Croc” Turnbull searches for wild koalas on Spicers Hidden Vale’s Koala Experience tour.

THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT An Australia Zoo koala handler poses with a resident cuddler; two female koalas at Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary; The Crocodile Hunter Lodge’s 82-foot infinity pool overlooks the resident koalas’ habitat; a wild koala is spotted in the trees at Spicers Hidden Vale.

and life-threatening diseases are devastating their populations.”

Pushed into increasingly smaller areas by suburban sprawl, their likelihood of contracting contagious diseases is increasing, while genetic diversity is decreasing.

Koalas are an “umbrella species,” Valenza says — protecting them indirectly safeguards the entire ecosystem. “If a habitat is healthy enough to allow a koala to thrive, then thousands of other species can also live in that same habitat.” It’s why she and countless other wildlife rescuers, veterinarians and researchers are fighting so hard to save koalas — work that’s made possible by tourism operators like Australia Zoo, and the visitors who come to marvel at one of the country’s most beloved creatures.

The opportunity to meet koalas like Grace Jones up close is one of the perks of staying at The Crocodile Hunter Lodge, where a self-guided “sneak peek” of the Australia Zoo Wildlife Hospital is included with every stay. Just a three-minute drive from the zoo, the property, which opened in 2022, is the Irwin family’s latest and most luxurious endeavor, featuring one- and two-bedroom cabins that carefully balance comfort (freestanding soaker tubs and plush beds) with just the right amount of kitsch (“Crikey!” doormats and framed photos of the Irwins).

From the lodge’s infinity pool, guests can watch muscular red kangaroos hop through a paddock and koalas amble up to the treetops, where they munch on eucalyptus leaves.

The lodge — the only property of its kind in the area — was a lifelong dream of Steve Irwin, who wanted to give international visitors an opportunity to be immersed in the native bush overnight, when animals are most active. Home to more than 3,000 native trees and shrubs, the vast grounds have become an important wildlife corridor, replete with nest boxes used by possums and bats. Critically, the lodge is another way Australia Zoo generates profits for its charitable arm, Wildlife Warriors, which funds the wildlife hospital.

Wildlife conservation is also central to the experience at Spicers Hidden Vale, a 12,000-acre luxury retreat about a onehour drive west of Brisbane, where the heritage cottages from the property’s former life as a cattle station have been restored and upgraded to include stone fireplaces, spacious verandas and outdoor bathtubs. The on-site hatted (“hats” being Australia’s answer to Michelin stars) Homage Restaurant also leans into the homesteading origin story, featuring a paddock-to-plate menu that highlights produce from the surrounding Scenic Rim region.

High-end culinary experiences are one of the defining features of the Spicers brand, with nine locations spread along

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Australia’s east coast. What sets Hidden Vale apart from its sister properties, however, is its AUD$18.5-million wildlife research facility. Completed in 2017, the Hidden Vale Wildlife Centre is a passion project of Spicers founder, Jude Turner, and her husband, Graham. Set within a 3,100-hectare nature reserve, it’s primarily used by researchers from the University of Queensland. But guests can also take guided tours of the Centre, with proceeds going to its research and rehabilitation programs.

“I want to stress that this isn’t a petting zoo — it’s all for research and conservation,” says Steve “Croc” Turnbull, a former professional crocodile wrangler and herpetologist turned Spicers tour guide and burgeoning TikTok star. Turnbull’s account, @Croc.Tails, is a nonstop stream of bat-eating snakes and close crocodile encounters. Tellingly, his most-watched video is of a koala rescue on the Spicers Hidden Vale property.

Inside the Hidden Vale Wildlife Centre, Turnbull shows me a digital map of the 23 known locations of koalas in its vicinity.

They’re monitored closely to help determine how chlamydia — a disease that’s ravaging koala populations, leaving them infertile and blind — is spread. A vaccine for the disease is under development, with koalas from Hidden Vale, the Australia Zoo Wildlife Hospital and Lone Pine being used to trial its efficacy.

On the day of my visit, none of the koalas are on site for health checks. Instead, Turnbull leads me to the second floor to show me one of Australia’s rarest endemic species.

He pops open a nest box and a wide-eyed ball of fluff emerges, with small hand-like paws eager to grab the mealworms Turnbull offers. It’s a mahogany glider, one of fewer than 1,000 left in the world. The nocturnal marsupial is an important pollinator, but it, too, struggles from habitat loss. The Centre aims to change that with its restoration efforts, including its planting, weed management and pest control program. “Through yearly wildlife surveys, we have seen an increase in native species since the program started,” says Turnbull. Much like how the work Australia Zoo is doing to rehabilitate injured animals is supported by tourism, the future of koalas, and the equally adorable mahogany glider, might be a little brighter because of Hidden Vale’s visitors. “We have to have tourism to be able to do the research that we’re doing,” says Turnbull.

From the Centre, we drive into an adjoining field, stopping to admire evidence of 120,000 trees planted as a wildlife corridor and food source for koalas — the regenerating habitat will eventually support hundreds of other species. Hopping out of the truck, I follow Turnbull toward a stand of gum trees. A rednecked wallaby, startled by us, bounds away through the long grass. High above, eucalyptus leaves rustle gently in the breeze.

The koala, when I finally spot it, is an unmoving bump of gray on a branch. Camouflaged by its surroundings, it’s easy to miss a koala even when you’re looking. But now I understand how much will be amiss if they’re gone — luckily, so do all the people fighting to save them. 

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THIS PAGE Time for a snack: A female koala at Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary enjoys some eucalyptus leaves; purchase some ‘roo food at Australia Zoo so you can pat and feed the resident red kangaroos, grey kangaroos, swamp wallabies, rock wallabies and red-necked wallabies.

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THIS PAGE Mapleton Springs’ owner and wildlife caregiver Rachel Aspinall holds a young sugar glider she’s rehabilitating; guide Steve “Croc” Turnbull is also a burgeoning TikTok star (@Croc.Tails), with more than 40,000 followers watching his wildlife videos shot at Spicers Hidden Vale.

Come for the Koalas Here are three more places where you can kip with koalas, all while helping to fund their conservation.

Mapleton Springs At this small boutique accommodation in the Sunshine Coast Hinterlands, help wildlife caregiver and owner Rachel Aspinall — who works closely with Australia Zoo — feed animals she’s rehabilitating, including sugar gliders, wallabies and koalas. Each of the three contemporary cabins looks out over the surrounding rainforest, an important habitat for native wildlife.

Selina Magnetic Island A short ferry ride from Townsville, in northeastern Queensland, Magnetic Island is home to one of Australia’s most well-known koala hospitals, popularized by Netflix series Izzy’s Koala World. At the island’s newly opened Selina property, which offers everything from private rooms to glamping tents, treat yourself to breakfast with some local koalas. Over pancakes and coffee, wildlife rangers will introduce you to a few, including Amaroo, a rescue from South East Queensland. Tours of Selina’s on-site wildlife park are also available.

Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary The fight to save koalas isn’t limited to Queensland: A roughly two-hour drive north of Sydney, in New South Wales, will take you to the Port Stephens Koala Sanctuary. In 2022, it unveiled 20 glamping tents nestled in native bush, home to a dozen resident koalas. Guests can also take a tour of the on-site koala hospital or stroll along an elevated boardwalk, which offers a view into their natural habitat.

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C R U I S I N G E L E VAT E D Everyone travels to see new things, but many travel to do new things as well.

With our Active & Discovery river cruises, we offer activities for travelers with varying interests and for all energy and fitness levels. From action-packed experiences and interactive discoveries, to traditional sightseeing, you can tailor a trip to suit your interests and pace.

Engaging Experiences Pull up a chair to hear a Vienna waltz, roll up your sleeves to paint like Van Gogh, or grab an apron to whip up a local recipe. Discover the world’s simple pleasures and grand artistry, from famous galleries to farmhouse kitchens.

Discovery in Motion Greet the day with a bike ride, a hike to a hilltop castle, or a kayak excursion through the Gorges de l'Ardėche. If you’re up for an active adventure, the adventure is up to you.

Explore Like a Local

AC T I V E & D I S C OV E RY

Get up close and personal with the iconic places you’ve dreamed of seeing. With expert Local Guides, you’ll get preferred access to the famous sites, insider information on local legends and lore, and the true heritage behind the history.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF ANANTARA VILAMOURA ALGARVE RESORT.

PORTUGAL

The Portuguese Treatment

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On a top-to-bottom tour of Portugal’s historic springs and luxury spas, our writer discovers why the country has long been a destination for wellness and rejuvenation.

By J.R. Patterson

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OPPOSITE The indoor vitality pool at Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort is an oasis of calm (and just one of four pools on the property).

he center of most Portuguese villages is dominated by a fountain. It might be grand and richly ornamented, with a mosaic of tiles and jets arcing from gargoyles with copper spouts, or it might be just a simple tap leaking droplets into a smooth granite basin. Throughout Portugal’s cities and villages, the fountain is the place for gathering, for gossip — and for health.

When the Romans arrived on the Iberian Peninsula in the third century AD in search of tin, silver and gold, they brought with them their love of liquid: wine, aqueducts and sanitas per aquam — “health through water” (or spa, for short). Ruins across the country, from Chaves in the north to Monchique in the south, show the Romans’ endless fascination with these wells of wellness. They show, too, that luxury in Portugal didn’t start on the beaches, but began with the rich waters that flow through the country.

Still, it is the beaches that have helped ignite a reappreciation for spas in Portugal.

Seeking escape from the crowds and high prices of the coastline, locals are increasingly retreating to the country’s interior. There, waiting for them, are those Roman-rooted hubs of leisure: modern-day spas that tap into the same time-tested water, the same gentle luxury on offer.

During a recent visit to Porto, lounging poolside at Vila Foz Hotel & Spa, I looked at a map of the country. It would be easy, I saw, to make a similar sanative journey, following those Roman lines through the country like a diviner, traveling from font to fountain.

I begin in the north, where the land is a solid fist of mountains, the water funneling over heel and knuckle to be mineralized and spritzed by the rock. The curative properties of the local water were first declared in the late 19th century, and it was soon bottled and sent across Europe, where its medicinal qualities were met with acclaim. Spas were popular across the continent at the time, and many were built around the villages of Gerês, Chaves and Pedras Salgadas. Portuguese King Carlos I was one hydrotherapy advocate, and he commissioned an extravagant palace near the town of Vidago, on the site of a healing spring. The monarchy was overthrown before construction was completed, and the palace instead became the Vidago Palace Hotel.

On a tour through its grounds, sales executive José Oliveira tells me that soon after its opening in 1910, the hotel was the talk of European nobility and upper-class families, who made the rounds of Vichy, Baden Baden and the western Czech Republic to take the water. “Vidago was a place beyond the realm of the normal spa circuit,” Oliveira says. “Upper-class families came here in droves.” Vidago proved Portugal’s water was as good as anywhere in Europe. “Very rare waters, / Very hot, alkaline, / Of divine qualities!” wrote local poet Artur Maria Afonso in his 1938 work, Chaves.

Strolling through the property’s 250 acres of cedar, pine and holly woodland, I come across a small pastel-colored buvette (pump room), its cupola like a Portuguese rice muffin. Inside is a spring, minded by a stately matron in white. At my request,

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PHOTOS: JOHN ATHIMARITIS (SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY); COURTESY OF CONVENTO DO ESPINHEIRO HISTORIC HOTEL & SPA; LUCIANO FERNANDES (VIDAGO PALACE HOTEL).

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Unlike the north, where spas are for warming up, Portugal’s south is about cooling down.

INSIDE SCOOP “I always make sure there’s a full spa in at least one of the hotels on my itineraries. I also try to include a free day (or two) from touring — ideally to be filled with a spa morning before strolling around the city or town.”

Ensemble Travel Advisor Danielle Lewis Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The panoramic dry-heat sauna at Six Senses Douro Valley immerses you in the property’s natural surroundings; after a poolside bowl of Alentejo gazpacho, take a soak in Convento do Espinheiro’s outdoor Jacuzzi; the grand Vidago Palace Hotel features an impressive 365 windows.

she opens the tap and fills a glass. “Not too much,” she says. “Like all good drinks, it’s better in moderation.” It is warm, fizzy and salty, with a hint of alloy. Later, floating in the Palace pool by myself, I realize it’s the same brackish water I’m bathing in.

A few days later, I enter Alentejo, the province spanning the breadth of central Portugal. The greenery of the north slips away, replaced by a spread of golden crops over red soil. This central plain of Portugal is high and dry, sometimes too dry, and its small villages can be parched — a pity, as José Saramago reminds us in Journey to Portugal, for “a fountain without water is sadder than a ruin.” To slake their thirst, the Romans built aqueducts, which coalesce the silver streams beyond the thick walls of Évora. Like a three-dimensional mud crack in the claypan, Évora’s warren of narrow streets breaks the city apart into fawn-roofed bairros (neighborhoods). In the center of them all is the narrow Praça do Giraldo (Giraldo Square), with its baroque, eight-spouted marble fountain.

Unlike the north, where spas are for warming up, Portugal’s south is about cooling down. Set on a hill north of Évora, the Convento do Espinheiro is a white beacon promising revival. For centuries, this home of the monks of the Order of St. Jerónimo was a place of rest and politics for the monarchs, bishops and generals who shaped Iberia’s destiny. “This was the center of it all,” my guide Luzia Mestre says, our footsteps resounding through the hotel’s chapel. “The most important religious community in Iberia was here — everything was blessed.” I raise an eyebrow. “Yes,” she says, “the water, too.”

Moving from the sunny courtyard to the cloistered restaurant is like slipping into a cool pond, which is what I am soon doing. After swimming 100 lengths in the long outdoor pool, I retreat to the quiet solitude of a warm, early night on the wide stone balcony of my room. Still chilled from the pool, with the spa’s scents of olive and lavender in my nose, I feel the cozy return of lifeblood as I drink a glass of the convent’s wine and watch the rows of the vineyards fade in the darkness.

South from Alentejo, the climate takes a milder turn in the Algarve, while the amenities become heightened — fitting for Portugal’s highly visited region. Some spas here, like Anantara Vilamoura, are within resorts that are like villages unto themselves, with gardens and restaurants spread over large grounds. I flow to that southern point of the country, borne on a current of Lusophonic pleasure. The Portuguese poet Florbela Espanca never left her native country, but she might have spoken for all who take the waters of Portugal when she wrote: What kind of magic potion Did you give me to drink?

I even forget myself And I can’t forget you...

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PHOTOS: JERÓNIMO COELHO (VIDAGO PALACE HOTEL); COURTESY OF ANANTARA VILAMOURA ALGARVE RESORT; JOHN ATHIMARITIS (SIX SENSES DOURO VALLEY).

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Regional Rituals Traverse the country from north to south, hopping to the coast and back inland, to experience spas of every style.

Considered one of the most luxurious hotels in Portugal, the Vidago Palace’s Belle Époque stylings meld with modern design.

In addition to treatment rooms, the serene, minimalist thermal spa features experience showers, hydromassage baths and indoor and outdoor swimming pools, all drawing from the region’s curative waters.

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Vila Foz Hotel & Spa

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Vidago Palace Hotel

A sophisticated renovation of a manor house, Vila Foz opened in 2019 to become one of the newest spa hotels on the Portuguese horizon, which extends right out the front door and over the Atlantic. Unwind by the light-flooded indoor pool after a personalized massage or facial featuring custom-made oils.

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Six Senses Douro Valley This resort’s spa emphasizes its setting in the world’s oldest demarcated wine region by offering treatments infused with concentrated ingredients from local grapes. Go for the two-hour Warming Schist Vinotherapy, which begins with full-body exfoliation using grapeseed pearls and port.

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Corinthia Lisbon

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At Corinthia’s spa, try the Portuguese Journey, an 80-minute treatment inspired

by Portuguese naval discoveries that incorporates local salt, clove buds and cinnamon, before enjoying the hammam, Jacuzzi, sauna, cold plunge and ice fountain.

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Convento do Espinheiro Many of the Convento do Espinheiro Spa’s services are held in the convent’s ornate chapel, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Treatment ingredients are locally sourced: Olive oil, rosemary and lavender provide varying levels of intensity and therapy.

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Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort Set inland from the famous Praia da Falésia (Cliff Beach), Anantara’s debut European property offers signature massages, as well as body treatments at its spa for golfers fresh off one of the several nearby courses, fusing Mediterranean therapies and energetic Asian techniques.

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Taste Vidago’s mineral-rich waters straight from the spring inside Vidago Palace’s Art Nouveau buvette (pump room); Anantara Vilamoura’s Palms pool looks out over Dom Pedro Victoria Golf Course; at Six Senses, swim some laps with a lush Douro Valley backdrop: the UNESCO World Heritage Site is home to 3,500 botanical species.

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The Land of Sand

A two-hour drive south of Abu Dhabi’s glistening skyscrapers is the Rub’ al Khali, or Empty Quarter, an endless expanse of sand that is at once luxurious and rugged — and like no other place on Earth.

P h o t o s by B e n R o b e r t s — W o r d s by D o m i n i q u e L a m b e r t o n

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OPENING SPREAD Like a sandcastle erupting from the dunes, Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara offers unmatched access to the world’s largest uninterrupted sand mass, where dunes reach heights of more than 900 feet.

ABOVE While in Abu Dhabi, Roberts visited Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque: The striking edifice, with its four 348-foot-tall minarets, welcomes up to 50,000 worshippers a day; the wind carves patterns into the Empty Quarter’s dunes, which range from golden yellow to reddish orange.

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en Roberts is a skilled navigator. The British photographer, who calls the Spanish mountain town of Cercedilla home, is adept at orienteering, a sport that sends competitors racing through wild terrain with just a compass and a map. As a young adult, he won national titles and represented Great Britain at the Junior World Orienteering Championships. Yet, in the Empty Quarter — the world’s largest sand desert, which spills into the United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Oman and Yemen, spanning a geographical area greater than France — he was lost. And he couldn’t believe it when his driver veered off the road to take on 30 miles of dunes without a map, compass or GPS, ending up exactly where he intended. “I live in the mountains, with pine trees and lakes,” Roberts says. “In the desert, all those elements are stripped down to sun, sky and sand. There’s no visible water, no green. I felt completely not of that place, more than anywhere I’ve ever been.”

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The best way to feel the scale of the desert is to hike among the dunes, or “mountains of sand,” says Roberts. “You can walk from Qasr Al Sarab and, by the time you get to the top of the closest dune, you’re just a tiny speck on the horizon.” It’s no stroll on the beach, though: “Every step you take, you’re taking a step back,” he says. “It’s quite a strange feeling to be so high up and not on solid ground.” Dusk is an ideal time to venture out, when the scorching sun has set, and the star-filled sky illuminates the sand.

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Falconry is an important element of Emirati culture, practiced for more than 2,000 years. The traditional sport is on display at Qasr Al Sarab where the resort’s eight falcons and team of animal handlers put on daily falcon and Saluki dog shows against the spellbinding backdrop of the desert. “It’s an atmospheric experience,” Roberts says, “being in the middle of the desert and watching how a native bird tracks and hunts prey, and the speed at which it travels.”

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Sweet, plump, rich in fiber and native to arid climates: It’s no wonder dates are treasured throughout the Middle East. The Liwa Oasis, a 60-mile stretch of green within the golden dunes on the northern end of the Empty Quarter, is awash with date trees, thanks to a water table near the surface. The local desert fruit is celebrated annually at the Liwa Date Festival, where Emirati farmers compete for Best Date Fruit and Best Date Grower.

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U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S

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The Liwa Oasis is the ancestral home of the Bani Yas tribe, who built forts throughout the region to protect their prized fertile land. Mezair’ah Fort is one of the most accessible: Visitors are free to walk inside the imposing walls of the century-old mud-brick structure, exploring its courtyard and round watchtowers.

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a must-see in Abu Dhabi, with its marble domes, gold accents and ornate chandeliers. I’d never seen such beauty in one place.”

Ensemble Travel Advisor Carolyn Moody Durham, North Carolina

U N I T E D A R A B E M I R AT E S

With multiple buildings, turrets and courtyards (plus restaurants, pool bar and spa), Qasr Al Sarab resembles the fortresses of ancient Arabia. The sprawling 19,000-acre property, with views of the dunes from every window (many of which feature traditional mashrabiya coverings), contains a comparatively few 207 rooms, suites and villas, providing lavish space and privacy for guests. “It’s like a labyrinth,” says Roberts. “You can wander around and get lost in it.” Not unlike the desert itself. 

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B y S y d n e y L o n e y — P h o t o s by K a t h e r i n e H o l l a n d

How history, nature and folklore are hopelessly — and wonderfully — intertwined on this one-of-a-kind isle in the North Atlantic.

In Search of Iceland’s Hidden People 54

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F

or many of the mysteries of the universe, we have science. Like the recent discovery of galaxy-wide gravitational waves that spread light-years across space and wash up here on Earth.

Scientists suspect they may hold the secret to the origins of our planet and, although we can’t see these cosmic ripples, we’ve been pretty sure for decades that they exist. Now, we know.

For other mysteries, we rely on stories. Long before labs and observatories, we crafted elaborate tales for things we couldn’t explain. Strange coincidences.

Sudden movements caught from the corners of our eyes. Faint sounds of laughter in an otherwise empty forest. Or simply the nagging feeling that we are not all there is. Icelandic culture is rife with these wondrous stories — and they have everything to do with elves.

Magnus Skarphedinsson has spent decades trying to apply some scientific rigor to the question “Do

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elves really exist?” He has personally interviewed 900 Icelanders who report having seen the country’s huldufólk, or “hidden people.” “It’s almost impossible to do scientific research on elves, so finding all the witnesses is our main source of information,” he says. “We collect as many stories as we can to get a sense of how big this really is, and is it true or is it nonsense? We have a preliminary conclusion: It is very, very likely that elves do exist.”

Magnus — who, if you were to picture him in a red suit carrying a sack, would closely resemble everyone’s favorite jolly old elf — studied history and folklore at the University of Iceland and has served as headmaster of Iceland’s Elfschool for the past 35 years. He has delivered lectures on elves to roughly 11,000 students, from local enthusiasts to curious world travelers. (A typical class at the Elfschool includes a 70-page textbook accompanied by coffee and pancakes topped with jam and whipped cream.)

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OPENI NG PHOTO The view from inside Loftsalahellir cave overlooking the Dyrhólaey peninsula — just one of Iceland’s more than 25 caves.

AB OV E Elf houses built by inhabitants of Hafnarfjörður, a seaside town and the country’s unofficial elf capital; Magnus Skarphedinsson, headmaster of Reykjavik’s Elfschool.

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OPENING PAGE Tktk The indoor vitality pool at Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort is an oasis of calm (and just one of four pools on the property).

OPPOSITE Tktk The indoor vitality pool at Anantara Vilamoura Algarve Resort is an oasis of calm (and just one of four pools on the property).

A B OVE “The world’s loneliest house,” as it’s widely known across the Internet, is an old hunting lodge solitarily situated in the middle of Elliðaey Island, just off the southern coast of Iceland.

Whether you believe in them or you don’t — and, Magnus says, 54 percent of the country’s residents do believe in them — Iceland’s geography is conducive to the existence of supernatural beings. Many of its surrounding islands (Skessuhorn, or “Troll Woman’s Peak,” Tröllaskarð, or “Troll’s Pass”) are said to be curled into the shapes of ancient trolls petrified by the rays of the sun. Elves, meanwhile, make their homes in enchanted rocks, cliffs and caves, inhabiting a hidden plane of existence as tangible as gravitational waves in a landscape that is itself otherworldly, marked by centuries of raging glacial rivers, violent storms and volcanic eruptions.

For Iceland’s human inhabitants, stories of the hidden people, which have been recorded from as early as the 12th century, are both entertaining and cautionary — as much about surviving in an unforgiving and unpredictable environment as about passing the time on long, dark winter nights. And in Iceland,

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more than anywhere else in the world, not only do these stories persist, they also shape the beliefs, actions and even infrastructure of modern-day life.

“This is a beautiful part of our past,” says Magnus.

“Friendship with the elves is one of the most sacred things in Iceland. If a politician were to stand up here and say, ‘Elves, that’s ridiculous!’ he or she would likely never be reelected.” Evidence of Icelanders’ reverence for the hidden people is everywhere.

Across the country, fences, roadways and even buildings bend and shift to accommodate large, craggy lava rocks identified as belonging to the elves.

In 2014, construction of a road through an ancient lava field stopped, then detoured to bypass an elfin community. Occasionally, a building or roadway expansion is simply halted indefinitely.

Still, it’s not all elves all the time, says Dagrún Ósk Jónsdóttir, a folklorist and teacher at the University of Iceland who doesn’t want people to assume that

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O P POS I T E PAGE Rútshellir is Iceland's oldest man-made cave.

According to legend, its namesake, Rutur, was either a murderous chieftain or a troll.

A B OVE María Rós Friðriksdóttir (left) in Heimaey tells the story of a local politician who had an elf rock (right) relocated to outside his home — he believed its inhabitants saved his life after a car accident.

Icelanders spend every waking moment preoccupied with creatures they can’t see. As they were for most people, stories of the supernatural were a routine part of her childhood, passed down from her grandmother and cropping up in her school curriculum.

“I grew up in one of the more rural parts of Iceland, in the Westfjords region, which is a land that’s very connected to folklore,” she says. “But when I was younger, I was way more interested in ghosts, because they were much creepier and more exciting than elves.”

When Icelandic children learn about their history, culture and language (one of the world’s oldest), stories of the supernatural are intertwined. “As a folklorist, whether or not there are elves in Iceland isn’t important,” Dagrún says. “What is important is that people continue to tell these stories, and what these stories tell us about the lives and ideologies of the people who live here.”

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She recalls her grandmother’s accounts of hearing hidden people singing from inside the rocks, and when Dagrún was a child herding sheep for her grandfather in the mountains, she imagined what it would be like to run into an elf, or to hear their songs for herself as she clambered with the sheep over the cliffs. “These stories create a certain magic and give the landscape an added dimension,” Dagrún says.

“I think in Iceland and elsewhere, stories can both make places, and places can make stories. When you travel around the country and see a big rock appear out of nowhere, you immediately think back to all the stories you’ve heard about the hidden people. It sparks your imagination.”

Dagrún’s professional interest in elves was sparked by her father, a fellow folklorist. In 2013, they created an exhibition near Hólmavik, a small fishing town, of 100 enchanted spots based on conversations with local people and the stories they

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shared. One of her favorites features the elves that live in the rocks of Brúarhlíð.

When an Icelander tells you a story, it begins with a lengthy pause, a palpable collecting of thoughts, followed by a subtle shift in tone, in cadence. Suddenly, it’s like you’ve been transported back to your childhood bedroom, letting the rhythmic lyricism of a fairy tale wash over you. Dagrún pauses, then begins her tale of the elves in Brúarhlíð.

A B OVE Fumaroles vent plumes of volcanic steam throughout the Reykjanes peninsula, a geothermal region renowned for its scenic hikes and hot springs.

There’s a big, big rock with a hill beneath it. And the story is that there is a hidden woman who lives in the rock. And you cannot remove stones from the rock or grasses from the hill. Elves are very similar to Icelanders of the past; they are farmers, and they need the grass from the hill to feed their sheep.

But, one time, the human farmers wanted to build a home for their sheep next to the hill using the stones from the rock. They built all day. And they had done

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quite a lot when the evening came, and in the evening they went to sleep. During the night, they heard a very loud rumbling from outside. But they did not dare go out to see what was happening.

The next morning, when they went outside, everything they had built had crumbled back down. And they were so certain it was because they had taken the rocks from the elves’ home, that they tried to return every rock to where it had been. They put the elves’ home back to how it was — and they didn’t disturb it again.

“In Iceland, even if you don’t have a story of your own, almost everyone knows someone who has one of this kind,” Dagrún says. “I always enjoy these stories — this one is from the 20th century — because even though some people don’t want to say that they believe in the hidden people, they will still go to the trouble of returning all the rocks.”

Dagrún says the themes of the stories have evolved

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O P POS I T E PAGE Icelandic horses, descended from original Viking stock, grazing on Heimaey island.

A B OVE Elf houses at the entrance to Hellisgerði park, a frozen lava flow in Hafnarfjörður featuring guided elf walks; follow the Elf Circle signs near the park to tour the top hidden-people hot spots around town.

over time. Where once they might be about elves saving the lives of fishermen during a storm, now they’re related to environmental issues and the importance of protecting the natural world. “Today the stories teach us to be respectful of nature, and of our neighbors, because that’s what the hidden people are in these stories — our neighbors, living close by in the rocks and the hills.”

Many of these stories are preserved in volumes dedicated to Icelandic folklore, but the best way to experience them is to hear them from a local source.

María Rós Friðriksdóttir, a teacher on Iceland’s Heimaey island — known for its large puffin colony today and its terrifying pirate raids from the past — is just one of many locals willing to share a story or even lead an impromptu tour of famous elf sites.

Here, history and folklore overlap, and the island is dotted with plaques devoted to just some of the tales that María shares with inquisitive visitors. Near

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the 12th hole of Vestmannaeyjar golf course, which is tucked into the crater of an extinct volcano, is a sunken cave with a plaque that tells of the Cave of the Hundred. In 1627, 100 people hid in the cave to (unsuccessfully) avoid capture by pirates. Then, there’s the story about the origin of the island itself. “I was told that trolls lived on the south side of Iceland and they threw a rock out to sea — and that rock is our island,” María says. “All of these stories are a big part of our culture and the community that we live in. I tell the stories to my kids, and my parents told them to me.”

Just as science helps us understand our place in the wider universe, the stories we tell help us understand our place in the world. They carry important messages and meaning, says Dagrún, and that’s why they’re still relevant. “Places become a lot more interesting when we know that there is a story connected to them.” 

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Guangaje, Ecuador When we’re not physically traveling, or reminiscing about past trips, we’re plotting our next itineraries. In the following pages, we’ve got a plan for the perfect day in Monterey County, a mini-guide to Bridgetown and expert insights on community-based tourism in Ecuador, where you might happen across a magical moment like this one: A mother and daughter return home across verdant highlands after blessing a spring in Guangaje, a small parish of Indigenous farming communities high in the Andes.

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Monterey County CALIFORNIA

Unwind in this oceanside county where you’ll find the most delightful shopping, golfing, dining and beach-going on the California coast.

By Leah Rumack

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PHOTO: DANIELA ARAYA/UNSPLASH.

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f you’ve never heard of Carmel-bythe-Sea, then you’re clearly not a pal of Brad Pitt’s. The actor recently bought a vacation home in this storybook spot on the California coast, and one glimpse of the sunset will help you understand why. Pitt is just one of a slew of celebs, including Doris Day, Clint Eastwood and Betty White, to discover the secret of this laid-back beach town.

While Carmel, especially the “downtown,” has always been home to momand-pop inns, new boutique properties like Villa Mara Carmel and the soonto-open Carmel-by-the-Sea Resort and Le Petit Pali are catering to a cooler luxury traveler who comes for the ocean breezes but stays for the wine and increasingly groovy restaurants, often helmed by chefs who have decamped from San Francisco. Bonus? The city of Monterey, famous for 1) its world-class aquarium and 2) being the bougie setting of TV show Big Little Lies, is only 15 minutes away.

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PHOTOS: GDMATTHEWS/ADOBE STOCK (01); MICAELA NETO (02); DANIELA ARAYA/UNSPLASH (03).

Morning A walk from Carmel Point to the center of the tiny city of Carmel-by-the-Sea only takes about 30 minutes, but when you’re talking about a stroll along the coastline on a pathway called Scenic Drive, the journey is truly the destination. Don’t miss Frank Lloyd Wright’s famous Mrs. Clinton Walker House (be sure to walk past the house and peek back so you see how Wright designed it to look like the hull of a ship going out to sea).

Amble along the absurdly white sand of the area’s main attraction, Carmel Beach. Then, just sit back and watch surfers brave the waves — it’s less a swimming beach and more a staring-with-your-jawon-the-sand beach. It’s also an off-leash paradise for exuberant dogs, but the stretch is so vast that you never feel as though you’re about to get attacked by a wayward poodle. When you’re done gazing out at the Pacific Ocean, wind your way through the residential streets to enjoy endless vibrant gardens, twee gates and fairy-tale cottages.

The deliberately quaint square mile of downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea is devoid of stoplights and addresses, and the street signs are so unobtrusive they can be hard to find. But never fear, the locals seem accustomed to giving directions, and the streets lined with boutiques, galleries and indie restaurants are easy to navigate.

While Ocean Avenue is the main drag (it’s where you’ll find the iconic Carmel Bakery and British-style candy shop Cottage of Sweets), be sure to explore the leafy alleyways on the side streets where

many of the best spots like Stationæry, beloved for its elevated all-day brunch, is tucked away. Yes, there’s avocado toast, but you’ll also find a potato pancake loaded with seasonal toppings, like the version I ate with culatello, roasted asparagus and a poached duck egg.

The Carmel Plaza is an outdoor shopping mall that’s home to a curious mix of upscale chains and local shops, but it’s a must-visit if only to see the riotously colorful House of Cardoon, a homewares shop bursting with all the hues of a rainbow. Owner Nora Lee Cavallaro honed her eye for delightful decor during a decade as a buyer for the ever-neutral Pottery Barn. “Now I buy all the things I couldn’t before,” she laughs. Her finds come from around the world — I’m still dreaming of the bright yellow trays from The Lacquer Company and the pop-y salt and pepper grinders from U.K. label Addison Ross.

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01 Frank Lloyd Wright designed the Mrs. Clinton Walker House on Carmel Point in 1948 to resemble a ship’s bow.

02 Bite into a big, soft, baked-freshdaily Bavarian pretzel at Carmel Bakery.

03 Cottage of Sweets, a Carmel icon since 1959, is famous for its homemade fudge and array of imported licorice.

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05 Potato Pancake with Smoked Trout is on the brunch menu at Stationæry in Carmel-by-the-Sea. 06 The outdoor lap pool at the five-star The Spa at Pebble Beach is kept at 82°F year-round.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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07 Chez Noir’s terroir-driven menu is inspired by French and Spanish cuisines.

08 Located at the foot of Ocean Avenue, Carmel Beach is known for prime surfing and dramatic sunsets.

Evening While Carmel and Monterey may not have a bumping nightlife, what they do have are some great places to eat. Stokes Adobe in Monterey is a beloved (possibly haunted!) neighborhood restaurant housed in a circa-1833 home that serves a seasonal bistro menu. Only the ghosts know for sure if I ate a whole bowl of crispy fingerlings with brown butter, chives and a lemon truffle crema all by myself, and they’re not talking.

One of my favorite spots is newly Michelin-starred Chez Noir in Carmel, which has been open for less than two years and feels like it would be more at home in Paris than this casual coastal town. Owned by husband-and-wife team Jonny and Monique Black, chef Jonny has a glittering résumé that includes stints at NOMA in Denmark and tripleMichelin-starred Quince in San Francisco.

The seafood-centric menu is obsessively focused on locally sourced seasonal

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ingredients, so that abalone skewer is straight out of Monterey Bay and you better believe your chilled oyster is topped with Big Sur rhubarb.

If you need a nightcap, head to Pearl Hour in Monterey for live music and cocktails, or, if you’re in a beer-y state of mind, choose selections from popular breweries like Other Brother Beer Co and Alvarado Street Brewery — just don’t miss the sunset.

You may well decide to stay the night, in which case Villa Mara Carmel, tucked into a residential neighborhood above the bluffs of Carmel Beach, is just the spot.

The 16-room boutique hotel is a serene, adults-only abode swathed in soothing wood and oversized windows. It’s pointedly unpretentious, despite the luxury price point. I’ve never padded downstairs in my socks to get my morning coffee at a hotel before, but here, that’s just what you do. 

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S TAY T H E N I G H T VILLA MARA CARMEL

Villa Mara Carmel, where hotel guests gather round the fireplace to chitchat during golden hour, makes you feel as though you’re weekending at your bohemian aunt’s beach house.

PHOTOS: ERIN NG/CHEZ NOIR (07); OVERBURN/ADOBE STOCK (08); COURTESY OF VILLA MARA CARMEL (STAY THE NIGHT).

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Talk about exciting and new Sun Princess® debuts February 2024 in the Mediterranean Princess’ newest – and largest – ship takes “next generation” to the next level, and you’re gonna love it. Sun Princess® offers new places to play, lounge and dine, favorite venues reimagined and brilliant views that let you experience the world in a whole new light. Book early to be among the first to enjoy the greatest vacation under the Sun.

10

16

Grand Mediterranean

days

Iberian Passage

days

7

Western Caribbean with Mexico Holiday

days

Roundtrip Rome (Civitavecchia)

Southampton (London) to Ft. Lauderdale

Roundtrip Rome (Civitavecchia)

3/19/2024 Sun Princess®

9/23/2024 Sun Princess®

12/21/2024 Sun Princess®

Balcony fares from*

Balcony fares from*

Balcony fares from*

1,949USD

$

2,199USD

$

$

1,505USD

*Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses of up to $120 USD are additional.

*Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses of up to $115 USD are additional.

*Taxes, Fees & Port Expenses of up to $145 USD are additional.

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: $85 USD onboard spending money per stateroom^

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: $60 USD onboard spending money per stateroom^

EXCLUSIVE OFFER: $50 USD onboard spending money per stateroom^

6 Ports: Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy; Sicily (Messina), Italy; Corfu, Greece; Santorini, Greece; Kusadasi, Turkey (for Ephesus); Athens (Piraeus), Greece; Naples, Italy (for Capri & Pompeii); Rome (Civitavecchia), Italy

4 Ports: Southampton (London), England; Portland, England; Vigo, Spain (for Santiago de Compostela); Madeira (Funchal), Portugal; Santa Cruz De Tenerife, Spain; Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

3 Ports: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida; Cozumel, Mexico; Belize City, Belize; Roatan, Honduras; Ft. Lauderdale, Florida

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Contact your travel advisor today! *Fares are per guest and apply to minimum lead-in balcony categories on a space-available basis at time of booking. Fares are non-air, cruise- or cruisetour-only, based on double occupancy and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. Fares and other values quoted in U.S. currency, unless otherwise indicated. ^Refer to your travel advisor for additional terms, inclusions and restrictions that apply to Onboard Spending Money. ©2023, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princesss,® MedallionClasss,® and the Princess logo are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships of Bermudan and British registry.

WHERE NEXT

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ASK A LOCAL

Expect the Unexpected in Ecuador Jascivan Carvalho, our on-the-ground expert, shares experiences you won’t find anywhere else in the world.

By Sydney Loney

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What surprises people most when they visit Ecuador?

You often introduce travelers to local “celebrities” — who might they meet?

People are amazed that they can breakfast in the Amazon, lunch in the high Andes and enjoy an evening of ceviche at sunset on a beach along the Pacific Coast. Ecuador is made up of diverse ecosystems, dramatic shifts in scenery, a United Nations of cultures and enchanted islands that we have the privilege, and the responsibility, to protect.

We set up a program that connects visitors with local artisans, from guitar makers to weavers, based on conversations I had walking from village to village and meeting the most amazing people with wonderful skills and stories. The best way to understand a country is to talk to its people.

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04

Is there one spot that visitors should be sure to see?

Is there anyone you particularly enjoy hanging with?

Husband-and-wife team José María and Carmita live in the northern Andes and run cooking classes for us from their home. An absolute must-try are the soups unique to Ecuador, like José María’s Sopa de Sambo, made with fig-leaf gourd. Whenever I stop by, Carmita always has me make the local hot sauce, called Ají, which I love.

Jascivan Carvalho C E O O F T R O P I C E C U A D O R In the 1990s, Carvalho worked with the Huaorani people deep in Ecuador’s Amazon jungle, supporting the tribe in their efforts to protect their culture and land. Inspired by the experience, he built Tropic — a founding member of the former Ecuador Eco-Tourism Association — on the principles of sustainable development and community-based tourism.

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ABOVE Treat yourself to a trek in the Andes: “You can get into a meditative mood because it’s so quiet,” says Carvalho.

“I love that feeling.”

PHOTO: KIYOSHI (UNSPLASH).

A place that’s close to my heart is Cotopaxi, a province in the highlands about 40 miles south of Quito. I love every single trek there, especially hiking on Rumiñahui volcano where you can cross the Valle del Silencio, or “Silent Valley.”

It’s so peaceful and the view of the mighty Cotopaxi volcano, the highest active volcano in the world, is like a dream.

STAR BREEZE IN MO’OREA

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EXPLORE IN A WAY THAT’S 180 DEGREES FROM ORDINARY A graceful all-suite yacht, serving just 312 guests, is the perfect way for you to experience the true wonder of Tahiti in ways that are personal, authentic, and unscripted. Windstar’s friendly, casual, and fun-loving spirit will make you feel like guests on a private yacht. Slow down, take your time and truly immerse yourselves in the natural beauty, amazing culture and romance of these fabulous islands.

Year-round departures through 2025 now open for booking!

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details and $100 per guest onboard credit on selected departures.

• Round trip airfare from Los Angeles (LAX) to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui • Overnight hotel stay at Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, or similar • Arrival transfers from airport to hotel and hotel to yacht • Post-cruise day room at Intercontinental Tahiti Resort, or similar • Departing transfers from ship to hotel and hotel to airport • Airline taxes and fuel surcharges • Non-alcoholic beverages, including coffee, tea, soda and bottled water • Open dining without fees & 24-hour room service • Fully equipped Watersports Platform and use of equipment* • Personal set of snorkel gear for use during the cruise • Destination Discovery Event:Bora Bora Celebration • Signature onboard deck barbecue* • Access to the Open Bridge* • Access to WorldSpa by Windstar sauna/steam room facilities and fitness classes *Port and weather conditions permitting

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PORT OF CALL

Bridgetown

FAST FACTS

Currency Barbadian dollar

Languages White-sand beaches, fascinating historic sites and opportunities to “lime” like a local make the Barbadian capital worthy of a pre- or post-cruise stay.

B y Tr u c N g u y e n

English, Bajan Creole

Tipping A 10% tip is standard

Temperature

B A R B A DOS

HISTORY BRIDGETOWN

1627

The first English colonizers arrive on the island; one year later, Bridgetown is established.

1966

W

hether you’re adding an extra day or three in Bridgetown, prepare to be charmed by this historic city set on the small Caribbean island’s more populated southwest coast. Bridgetown and its Garrison were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, and a walking tour of the city will bring you past sights like the bustling Bridgetown Fish Market, Barbados’ national legislature, the shops of pedestrian-only Swan Street and one of the western hemisphere’s oldest synagogues, Nidhe Israel Synagogue. Of course, swimming and snorkeling the surrounding turquoise-blue waters and touring centuries-old rum distilleries are musts, as is taking in the Rihanna-approved Oistins Fish Fry on a Friday night.

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Barbados gains independence from the United Kingdom but remains a constitutional monarchy.

2021

The country removes Queen Elizabeth II as head of state and becomes a republic within the Commonwealth.

CRUISE SHIP ILUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: ALPEGOR/ADOBE STOCK (HISTORY).

Average daily high of 78°F/26°C

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PORT OF CALL

CAN’T MISS

LOCAL LINGO

Mount Gay Distillery & Visitor Centre

LIMING

The oldest rum producer on the island, Mount Gay was founded in 1703 and has been making its renowned rum at its north Barbados distillery ever since. Tour the working estate in St. Lucy (about a 40-minute drive from the capital), or, for an experience right in Bridgetown, stop in at the Mount Gay Visitor Centre for a rum tasting or cocktail workshop.

E AT T H I S

Fish Cutter Head to Cuzz’s Fish Shack on Pebbles Beach for the best fish cutter (what Bajans call a sandwich) you’ll ever have, featuring pan-seared blue marlin, tomato and lettuce on a fresh bun (don’t forget the Bajan pepper sauce).

When locals are “liming,” they’re chilling out or partying with friends and family — it’s how Bajans relax and let loose.

PHOTOS: MOUNT GAY DISTILLERY (CAN’T MISS); CARIBBEAN STORE (SOUVENIR); @THECHEWREVIEW (EAT THIS); MARK SUMMERFIELD/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (INSIDER TIP); GINA FRANCESCA (MARK YOUR CALENDAR).

Cou-cou and Flying Fish The national dish of Barbados sees steamed flying fish paired with a combo of cornmeal and okra called cou-cou, all topped with a spicy sauce.

SOUVENIR

Delish Bajan Hot Pepper Sauce If you like it hot, you’ll be hooked on Bajan pepper sauce by the end of your stay.

Buy a bottle (or two) of the tangy Scotch bonnet- and mustard-based condiment to bring the flavor of Barbados back home.

INSIDER TIP

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

The Barbados National Trust offers free weekly guided hikes, including the occasional Moonlight Hike, for both locals and tourists.

If you’re visiting Barbados during the summer, don’t miss out on Crop Over.

A celebration of the end of sugar cane season, the weeks-long harvest festival includes soca parties, musical performances, craft markets and food fairs, culminating in an epic parade known as Kadooment Day.

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Crop Over Festival

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WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

IF YOU WANT T O C H I L L O U T…

W H E R E TO S TAY

Make It a Beach Day

Brandons Beach Located within walking distance of the Bridgetown cruise port, this stretch of sand is known for its spectacular sunsets.

Brownes Beach Sun lounger and umbrella rentals are easy to find at one of the largest beaches on the island.

Rockley Beach This beach features calm waters for swimming and is close to an eclectic mix of bars, restaurants and shops.

Sugar Bay Barbados The all-ages resort in the Garrison Historic Area (it’s just a short walk to Bridgetown’s south coast boardwalk) offers family-friendly amenities, including a Kids Club and Teen Clubhouse, and direct access to a stunning beach and protected swimming lagoon.

IF YOU’RE UP FOR ADVENTURE…

See Turtles and Shipwrecks Paddle Barbados’ two-hour SUP & Snorkel Tour allows you to spend time above and below the surface: Paddle across Carlisle Bay, then don snorkel gear to scan the protected marine area for turtles and shipwrecks.

E V E RY F R I DAY

Oistins Fish Fry This weekly food-forward party with plenty of music and dancing is in the fishing village of Oistins (a 20-minute drive from Bridgetown). Arrive early to sample dishes like grilled fish, jerk chicken, macaroni pie and fried breadfruit before the lines get too long.

Even homegrown star Rihanna, officially a Barbados National Hero, is a fan.

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Ensemble Villas & Vacation Homes Make yourself (and your travel companions) at home in your own luxury villa, complete with features such as private chefs, panoramic views, fitness rooms and infinity pools. With more than 200 vacation homes across Barbados, from beachfront near Bridgetown to golf course-adjacent in St. Andrew, you can find the perfect home base for your group.

PHOTOS: BARBADOS TOURISM (IF YOU’RE UP FOR ADVENTURE...); RODNEY LEGALL/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO-BRANDONS BEACH (IF YOU WANT TO CHILL OUT...); YVETTE CARDOZO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (EVERY FRIDAY); BARBADOS TOURISM (WHERE TO STAY); VILLAS OF DISTINCTION/PORTOBELLO (WHERE TO STAY).

All of Barbados’ beaches are open to the public — here are three in and around Bridgetown.

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* Certain conditions, limitations and exclusions apply. See policy for details.

Underwritten by

The Manufacturers Life Insurance Company (Manulife) and First North American Insurance Company (FNAIC), a wholly owned subsidiary of Manulife.

Manulife, Stylized M Design, Manulife & Stylized M Design, and Manulife Premium Protection Plan are trademarks of The Manufacturers Life Insurance Company and are used by it, and by its affiliates under license. © 2023 The Manufacturers Life Insurance Company. All rights reserved. Manulife, PO Box 670, Stn Waterloo, Waterloo, ON N2J 4B8.

Website: www.manulife.ca Telephone: 1-800-268-3763 Accessible formats and communication supports are available upon request. Visit manulife.ca/accessibility for more information.

23_663873 07/2023

Enjoy your stay with Infinite Indulgence.® It's all included.

GIFT YOURSELF WITH PALLADIUM RESORT CREDIT

$1,500

RESORT CREDIT With minimum 4-night stay

Palladium Hotel Group’s Resort Coupons provides qualified guests with coupons to be redeemed on products and services, beyond Palladium Hotel Group’s offering. This promotion includes a broad range of options and coupons that may go toward such things as specialty items, a romantic dinner or luxurious Zentropia Palladium Spa & Wellness treatments.

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Terms and conditions: Advance booking required. Non-refundable and non-transferable. Offer limited and subject to availability. Offer subject to change and expire without notice. New bookings only. Not valid on group bookings. Other restrictions may apply. A minimum 4-night stay is required. Credits are issued per room per stay. Offer is not cumulative. This offer may not be combined with any other offer. Resort credits cannot be redeemed for cash, products, or merchandise. No cash reimbursement for unused credits. Resort credits include a broad range of options, and coupons may go toward such things as specialty items, a romantic dinner or luxurious Zentropia Palladium Spa & Wellness treatments. Ontario travel agents are covered by TICO. Mailing address: 6085 Midfield Road, Toronto ON L5P 1A2. TICO registration number: 50018683.

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE

Hotel Hotlist Exclusive perks — from early check-in and breakfast for two to room upgrades and spa credits — await at some of our favorite properties in Mexico, the Maldives and beyond.

F LO R E N C E , I TA LY

Brunelleschi Hotel is a luxurious and legendary Florentine landmark situated just a few steps from major sights, including the Duomo, the Uffizi Gallery and Ponte Vecchio, as well as museums and shopping streets.

NIZUC Resort & Spa P U N TA N I Z U C , C A N C Ú N , M E X I CO

Discover the wonders of the Mexican Caribbean at NIZUC, just 15 minutes away from Cancún International Airport. Enjoy its whitesand beaches, indulge in ultimate serenity at ESPA spa, savor an oasis of culinary delights and explore the magic of the Mayan region.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

Ensemble Exclusives US$80 food and beverage credit, per room per stay Buffet breakfast Complimentary Wi-Fi Room upgrade* Early check-in and late checkout*

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Brunelleschi Hotel

Ensemble Exclusives Welcome amenity Daily buffet breakfast for two at Café de la Playa US$75 spa credit per room per stay Room upgrade* Early check-in and late checkout*

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ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE

Noelle N AS HVI L L E , T N , USA

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Noelle is a carefully considered experience created by some of the area's finest tastemakers. This unique collaboration is designed to bring guests face to face with the warmth and delightful unpredictability that make Nashville special. Noelle is more than a place to lay your head — it's an authentic encounter with Nashville’s vibrant spirit.

Outrigger Maldives Maafushivaru Resort M A A F U S H I VA R U I S L A N D, M A L D I VE S

Located on an island 350 meters in length, the resort is a 25-minute seaplane journey from Male and is partially shaded by lush vegetation encircled by white beaches next to a spectacular reef.

Ensemble Exclusives

US$50 experience credit Complimentary Wi-Fi Upgrade on arrival* Early check-in and late checkout*

Ensemble Exclusives

Welcome amenity Daily breakfast for two One category upgrade* Early check-in and late checkout*

StoneHaven Le Manoir Relais & Châteaux

Ensemble Exclusives

SAI N T E -AGAT HE -D E S -MO N TS , Q U E BE C , C A N A DA

This luxury hotel, located in the heart of the Laurentians region in Quebec, is enhanced with carefully selected antique furniture. Guests can enjoy a sumptuous gastronomic experience at the hotel’s restaurant, a true hidden gem of the Laurentians, thanks to the local cuisine of chef Marc-Antoine Lacasse.

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Welcome amenity Complimentary breakfast Priority early check-in and late checkout*

ENSEMBLE EXCLUSIVE

Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort

Ensemble Exclusives

WAI K I K I BE AC H, HO N O LU LU, OA HU, HAWA I’I , USA Welcome amenity

Stay in beautifully renovated guest rooms and suites with a modern Hawaiian feel. Enjoy luxury amenities and local hospitality, all while staying steps from Honolulu's most famous attractions and some of the most iconic scenery in Hawai’i.

Daily breakfast for two One category upgrade* Early check-in and late checkout*

Contact your Ensemble travel advisor to take advantage of these exclusive offers.

*Subject to availability at the time of check-in

NOW OPEN!

A B O U T I Q U E I S L A N D H AV E N AWA I TS

© 2023 Hyatt Corporation

O U T TA K E

PHOTO: KATHERINE HOLLAND. TEXT: SYDNEY LONEY.

The Westman Islands, Iceland

Photographer Katherine Holland captures rugged Heimaey island (pop. 4,300) in this outtake from her recent adventures in Iceland. “It’s absolutely stunning and is famous for its puffin colony. Plus, everyone knows everyone — I met the loveliest people there.”

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DISCOVER THE OCEAN STATE OF MIND Explora Journeys is C R E AT I N G a collection of journeys that offer the perfect B L E N D of celebrated destinations and less-travelled spots, both seen from a new and O R I G I N A L point of view that will inspire and E X C I T E in equal measure.

Featured Journey

An Extended Journey to Temple Walls and Emirati Palaces NOVEMBER 2 - DECEMBER 2, 2024 30 NIGHTS • EXPLORA II ATHENS

GREECE PIRAEUS CYPRUS PAPHOS

HAIFA

PORT SAID Crossing the Suez Canal

ISRAEL

JORDAN AQABA

SHARM EL-SHEIKH LUXOR & KARNAK SAFAGA

ALULA AL WAJH

EGYPT

DUBAI

SAUDI ARABIA

Sailing the Red Sea

JEDDAH

SIR BANI YAS ISLAND

ABU DHABI

UNITED ARAB MUSCAT EMIRATES

OMAN SALALAH

AQABA-PETRA

ATHENS (PIRAEUS) • HAIFA - OVERNIGHT • PAPHOS • PORT SAID • CROSSING THE SUEZ CANAL • SHARM EL-SHEIKH • JEDDAH - OVERNIGHT • AQABA (PETRA) - OVERNIGHT • LUXOR (SAFAGA) - OVERNIGHT • ALULA (AL WAJH) - OVERNIGHT • JEDDAH - OVERNIGHT • SALALAH • MUSCAT • SIR BANI YAS ISLAND • ABU DHABI - OVERNIGHT • DUBAI

Ocean Suites fares from USD 17,750 pp P L E A S E C O N TAC T YO U R E N S E M B L E T R AV E L A DV I S O R F O R M O R E D E TA I L S .

Fares are cruise only, per person; taxes & port fees included; subject to availability and subject to change; Terms & Conditions apply.

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.