Going Big on the Danube

By Barbara Ramsay Orr

Sailing down the Danube on the new, double-wide AmaMagna marries the intimacy of river cruising with the space and variety of ocean sailing.

THE AMAMAGNA IN PASSAU, GERMANY

©AMAWATERWAYS

It’s 6 a.m. and there is no one on the top deck but me, and Captain Jan, on the bridge. Birds are singing on the riverbank, and there are other boats steaming by, but except for the gentle lap of water, it is quiet. The sun has just begun to take the morning chill off the air.

I have a double espresso and a fresh pastry in hand, and in about 40 minutes the AmaMagna will sail under the first of seven bridges and into the centre of Budapest. I would label this a good start to the day.

Sailing on the new AmaMagna is a pleasure, and one of its best qualities is the space – a wide open deck, fat sofas and lots of room. Even when the rest of the guests have come topside to watch the sail-up to the ‘Paris of the East’, there is no crowding. This boat has space to spare.

AL FRESCO RESTAURANT

©AMAWATERWAYS

The newest riverboat in the 23 strong AmaWaterways fleet, and by length the largest riverboat sailing the European rivers, AmaMagna is double the width of standard boats on the rivers.

She’s big and she is sometimes a tight fit. This is made clear during a yoga class on the top deck one morning. As we sink into child’s pose, wellness instructor Tiago advises us to hold that position and keep our heads well down – as we skim under a bridge that passes a few feet above our heads. Later, we moved through a lock with mere inches to spare.

The ship began sailing in May along the Danube, the only river with locks large enough for her to pass through. The ship’s passenger capacity has only been increased by 20 per cent so the extra room is taken up by large public spaces, generous cabins, wide corridors and more amenities.

YOGA ON THE TOP DECK

©BARBARA RAMSAY ORR

For guests accustomed to ocean cruising, AmaMagna is a good choice. Not only is the ship more spacious, it has a spa, theatre, five bars, a pool and jacuzzi. Unlike most other river boats, there are three dining options in addition to the main dining room.

In The Chef’s Table Restaurant, Chef Adrian Chirita prepares a seven-course tasting menu, while Jimmy’s Wine Bar serves dishes on sharing platters at long communal tables. With free-flowing wine and new friends, it is a cheery place to dine. The Al Fresco Restaurant is open and light, with retractable windows and a casual tapas menu.

Cabins are generous with a full balcony, marble clad walk-in shower, double sinks, large screen TV’s and a big screen Apple computer. The ship is fully accessible, with a pop-up elevator that will take guests to the upper deck.

SUITE ON THE AMAMAGNA

©AMAWATERWAYS

The walking tour of Passau, Germany, is an example of how the company offers port experiences for everyone. There is a three-hour walking tour of the historic heart of the old town, but there is also a ‘gentle walk’ group. The Passau Castle hill hike, as well as a bike tour along the river, is for the energetic.

In Vienna the same level of tours are offered in the morning, along with hiking and biking, but in the afternoon the ship runs a regular shuttle to the centre of the city for independent exploration.

On the last night I sit on the balcony with a view of Budapest’s Szechenyi Chain Bridge, watching the boat traffic, and decide I like this big lady of the river.

WRITER BARBARA ABOARD THE AMAMAGNA

©BARBARA RAMSAY ORR