Foodie Cornwall 18

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

Cornw

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

Issue 18

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

TREVASKIS FARM

400 years of family farming

l l a w n r Co l l a w n r Co

INSIDE TH IS MONTH

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foodie

A Tale of Trevaskis With a farming history spanning 400 years, we meet Giles Eustice to talk about how hard work and entrepreneurial spirit have been the key to success. words by:

Hannah Tapping

T

n LEFT Animals reared on the farm

he Eustice family has been farming in west Cornwall for over four centuries.

The farm at Trevaskis was bought in 1969 – it was then a traditional farm with not a tree in sight and was farmed as such for nigh on ten years. However, as Giles explains: “After another devastating winter vegetable season in 1979 father declared that ‘there had to be another way’. He’d always been inventive and entrepreneurial throughout his life, looking for a different route and a different way. He often designed his own machinery to try and combat problems and create efficiency and I think that still runs true with us today.”

And so the farm was planted with strawberries and a pick your own venture began in 1980 alongside the traditional veg.

It wasn’t unusual to see people queuing up at 7.30am outside the gates eager to get the pick of the crop. A small grass car park was home to the corrugated iron hut where you took your fruit to be weighed. “We had a blackboard up outside with the day’s prices,” says Giles, “I can remember caulis being priced at 30p – ironically not much more than the price a farmer gets for one today.”

“I grew up here as a boy picking fruit and harvesting vegetables. My father’s entrepreneurial spirit was contagious and I decided I wanted to earn my own money so I started picking broad beans and pulling them up the lane on my back, sporting a straw hat to keep the sun off.”

This may not seem to be such a ground-

breaking venture with today’s plethora of farm shops and pick-your-own, but back then Trevaskis was a pioneer. The strawberry business ran alongside the commercial farm with winter veg being run up to the Midland's markets. There was also a heard of South Devon beef cattle and British lop pigs to keep the family busy. The strawberry side of the business continued to grow with the addition of bush fruits and top fruits. “My grandfather was not best pleased – he used to say that he had spent a lifetime trying to get brambles out of the fields and my father was putting them back. He also planted apple orchards at a time when people said you couldn’t grow apples commercially in Cornwall, and guess what?” says Giles with a smile: “Dad did it anyway!”

In 1987 Giles’ mum opened the Trevaskis restaurant. “Borrowing every penny she could from the bank to build the log cabin, she had idyllic ideas of shelling peas on the back step, but she spent the first two weeks in tears as no one came in as people thought it was a toilet block!” chuckles Giles. The restaurant is run with the same ethos today as it was when it first opened – good farmhouse cooking with a glorious desert counter. “It’s where this place fledged,” says Giles proudly. “Mum worked at the helm of the restaurant for nearly 20 years and built it up to the institution it is today.”

Although finishing school at 15 to work on the family farm and then going into commercial soft fruit production with his brother, it wasn’t to be the success they had

F

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foodie

n LEFT Delicious dishes cooked fresh at the restaurant

hoped for: “We were two young lads with big ideas,” explains Giles, “but it didn’t work out. George went into politics and I went into computers, ending up working internationally, a far cry from what I had left behind. I came to a natural break though and the food thing was starting to grow in Cornwall. People’s perception of where food comes from had started to change.

Supermarkets had their heyday in the ‘90s, teaching us how to shop, but I could see that there was a shifting concern about provenance. I thought I could do something with that so I hung up my suit and went back to my roots. I started ‘cheffing’ in mum’s restaurant and putting caulis back out on the shelf. A far cry from the transatlantic flights I had been used to but I never looked back; it was in my blood and I was back to my roots.

Give me a fishing rod and the wild life and that’s where I want to be.”

That was in 2004 and much has happened at Trevaskis since. Giles went on to open up the whole farm, including putting up information display boards for farm tours. An organic kitchen garden was planted in 2006 and there are now over 70 different crops and herbs growing on this piece of land alone.

Two years later saw the doors to the Farm Market open. “We wanted to get the whole farm shop idea back to its core value with an affordable farm gate option and something that was a viable alternative to the supermarket. There has been a tendency for farm shops to be a gift experience, not offering the day in, day out staples. The Farm Market enables people to opt out of the supermarkets

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ê BELOW The well stocked farm shop

with the convenience of 8am-8pm shopping. We even created a range of ready meals.”

Giles works relentlessly from morning until night – ensuring the smooth running of all of the facets of Trevaskis means there is little sleep.

Luckily he has a great team behind him to help run the farm, fruit production, shop, restaurant and school tours. The unique farm environment means that staff have to multitask. “We’re not just growing and harvesting thousands of acres of one product. We grow over 100 varieties of fruit and veg, as well as our herd of beef cattle and British Lop Pigs,” says Giles.

You would think with so much going on that perhaps it would be time to sit back and reap the benefits, but a Eustice is obviously not one to sit on his or her laurels. An extension to the restaurant and new car parking area are underway to enhance the visitor experience and there are plenty more plans afoot for the coming years. “It’s all about the food,” says Giles, “we have a glorious larder here in Cornwall and we want our customers to think in terms of food yards, not food miles.”

é ABOVE ‘Pick your own’ has proved a big success at Trevaskis Farm í BELOW Giles Eustice

“Give me a fishing rod and the wild life and that’s where I want to be”

TREVASKIS FARM Connor Downs, Hayle TR27 5JQ Restaurant: 01209 713931 Shop: 01209 714009 www.trevaskisfarm.co.uk Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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t e m r Gou gossip

We catch up with all the latest news from some of our favourite chefs, eateries, hotels and pubs!

SPRING’S FINEST PRODUCE ARRIVES AT OUR SHORES

sy of: Nick Hook

months, Bruce has toiled away to make sure everything in the restaurant is up to par and the establishment is well prepared for what is no doubt going to be a busy summer season.

Bruce looks forward to continuing to please patrons old and new with a varied menu of new and interesting dishes. Better book fast!

THE SHORE 13/14 Alverton Street, Penzance TR18 2QP 01736 362444 www.theshorerestaurant.uk

Images courte

The Shore is the pride and joy of Owner and Head Chef Bruce Rennie, and he wants you to enjoy it too. The restaurant offers a small but masterfully crafted menu, using fresh, locally sourced produce and the best ingredients available on a day-to-day basis.

With spring right around the corner, the variety and availability of ingredients is about to explode; winter is a tough time of the year for local produce and the return to the warmer months means a return to the varied, tasty and natural foodstuffs of our beautiful Duchy.

To take advantage of these quieter

SPRINGTIME AT THE FALCON INN, ST MAWGAN

GIN & TONIC TASTING AT THE PENVENTON

Forget about the rain, wind and stormy weather of the winter and enjoy springtime in the lush, award-winning beer garden and patio area of The Falcon Inn, in the beautiful village of St Mawgan, not far from both Mawgan Porth and Newquay.

Sample the varied and well-considered menu of tasty local produce, traditional steaks, the ‘bubble and smoke’ and delicious homemade pies. The Falcon Inn is a 16th century traditional pub with a roaring open fire and dining room.

Proprietor Sarah says: “Enjoy a warm, friendly welcome and a relaxed time. Our menu is full of heart-warming dishes, all freshly prepared and homemade.” Nothing beats a proper country pub and fine Cornish hospitality. So, next time you’re looking for the perfect location and a friendly atmosphere for lunch or evening meal with friends or family, head over to The Falcon. Its reputation for serving great, honest food at affordable prices is well deserved, with all ingredients locally sourced, where possible, within Cornwall.

This classic, juniper-based drink has seen a recent surge in popularity. As a result, there are many new craft distillers popping up and a vast range of gin varieties now available to try.

With well over 100 gins to choose from at the Penventon Park Hotel in Redruth, Bar Manager, Terry Weeks, gives us his tips for tasting new varieties and how to enhance the flavour of your favourite G&T. “We love creating different flavour combinations for our guests to enjoy. That’s why we created our Gin Tasting Board, so you can sample a range and find your new favourite. Our expert team can guide you through to help decide which takes your fancy. We also have a range of botanicals, spices and other flavour enhancers to really bring out the fabulous flavours such as rose buds, red peppercorns, cardamom and even jelly beans!” Terry recommends trying Williams Chase Seville Orange Gin with a few orange jellybeans or Opihr Gin tastes fantastic served with a little grapefruit. Try mixing it up with a different tonic such as Fevertree Mediterranean or Fentimans Rose Lemonade for something a little different. A great option if you want to find out what the hype is all about if you’re not a tonic fan!

THE FALCON INN St Mawgan, Nr Newquay TR8 4EP 01637 860225 www.thefalconinnstmawgan.co.uk

THE PENVENTON PARK HOTEL West End, Redruth TR15 1TE 01209 203000 www.penventon.co.uk

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ck Hook

BIG FLAVOURS AT THE LEMON ARMS

FINE FOOD AT ROSEWARNE MANOR

We love to discover fantastic places to eat and drink in and around Cornwall, so when we heard talk of a new menu at The Lemon Arms at Mylor Bridge, we just had to take a look ourselves. Head Chef, Chris Oakes, previously a sous chef with Wright Brothers (the oyster and shellfish specialists behind The Ferryboat Inn) comes highly commended with big flavours and ideas to match. Chris brings much of that seafood knowledge onto the specials board, to complement the traditional homecooked pub classics.

Chris shares one his favourites currently on the menu: potted gammon hock with homemade piccalilli and malt toast. The dish is made by simmering gammon hocks with stock vegetables for four to five hours until the meat falls of the bone. The meat is then shredded and tossed with parsley and a little of the reduced cooking stock to keep it moist.

Alternatively, you can put the meat into a mould and pour over the stock to make a terrine. If you don’t have time to put it together yourself, simply head over to Mylor Bridge and let the maestro do the hard work for you. Delicious!

Rosewarne Manor near Hayle in west Cornwall is well known to many as a gorgeous wedding venue – a popular location for any function, whether birthdays or family gatherings – as well as its murder mystery evenings. But, as we discovered, it’s so much more than that too. A fabulous place to dine whatever the occasion – refined, yet relaxed.

Wednesdays through to Saturdays, the chefs provide the choice of a quality, award-winning á la carte menu that showcases the very in best local produce. This is complemented by the full bar menu, offering a more informal dining experience, with traditional classics and contemporary creations. On Sundays, treat yourself to the fantastic carvery lunch. Of course, all of this comes with the added benefit of dining in the lovely setting of Rosewarne Manor, overlooking its stunning gardens.

Finally, congratulations are in order for two of Rosewarne’s chefs, who reached the final eight in South West Chef of the Year 2015. Well done!

THE LEMON ARMS Lemon Hill, Mylor Bridge TR11 5NA 01326 373666

ROSEWARNE MANOR Gwinear Road, Connor Downs, Hayle TR27 5JQ 01209 610414 www.rosewarnemanor.co.uk

BEER IS THE NEW WINE Beer is starting to replace wine as a basis for pairing suggestions on menus. A shift hailed as ‘hipstery’ by naysayers and as progress by proud craft beer enthusiasts, in the end local business gets supported and multinational corporations get some competition; what’s not to love?

Recently the Campaign for Real Ale’s Good Beer Guide has shown interest in including Seiners, the popular beachside bar and restaurant in Perranporth, in their fabled tome.

Seiners act as a tap house for the local microbrewery Black Flag, proud to give the local craftspeople a venue to sell their delicious drinks and allow their customers the choice of exclusive craft beer. Look out for ‘White Cross’, a pale and zesty beer perfect with seafood, perhaps some delicious moules mariniere from the expert kitchen.

THE SEINERS ARMS Beachfront, Perranporth 01872 573118 www.seiners.co.uk

A BEACHSIDE RETREAT IN MAWGAN PORTH Mawgan Porth is home to The Merrymoor Inn, a wonderfully welcoming pub and B&B, run by three generations of the same family since 1961. Nestled just above the beach, it’s the ideal setting to enjoy a pint in the beer garden, or family meal around the log burner after a day exploring the beach. There’s a well-stocked bar, with a selection of four real ales, as well as a popular carvery available on Sunday lunchtimes, including three different meats, wonderful fresh vegetables and giant homemade Yorkshire puddings.

Why not make a weekend of it and book a room for a night or two? There are seven en-suite rooms available, most offering dramatic sea views of the beach and cliffs beyond, and a children’s play area to entertain the little ones.

Breakfast is a celebration of local produce featuring Kernow Sausage, Hugo’s Granola, Chough Bakery doorstep toast, and smoked haddock from Matthew Stevens.

But whether visiting for breakfast, lunchtime or an evening meal, tuck into a range of hearty dishes from the menu and daily specials board created by Head Chef John Fish and his team, as seen at Newquay Fish Festival 2015.

THE MERRYMOOR INN Mawgan Porth, Newquay TR8 4BA 01637 860258 info@merrymoorinn.com www.merrymoorinn.com

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foodie Images courtesy of: Nick Hook Photography

Waterside

WONDER Whether in Falmouth or Fistral Beach, enjoy a fantastic atmosphere, delicious food, and mesmerising views over the water at The Stable.

F

“from rare-breed meats to delicious cheeses, and, of course, our beloved cider”

almouth’s Arwenack Street was once bustling with sailors sharing tall tales of life at sea in the many taverns. Today, the street is still thriving with visitors flocking to the unique boutiques and bistros to savour fine food and stunning views over the estuary.

Its crowning glory, The Old Customs House, a Grade II listed building, remains a social hub, now home to The Stable.

Fast building a reputation for its awardwinning pizza, pies and cider, The Stable champions everything we hold dear at Cornwall Living: wonderfully flavoursome local produce, a warm welcome, unique and innovative interior design and fabulous locations. With possibly the finest harbour views in Falmouth, what better setting to dine out?

The building exudes character; contemporary twists of sheet glass and stencilled wall art complement the exposed stone walls and original wooden beams.

This ethos of combining old and new is reflected wholeheartedly in the menu – big on flavour, with a firm emphasis on homegrown produce.

Founded in the south west, The Stable celebrates our wonderful artisan food and drink, from rare-breed meats to delicious cheeses, and, of course, our beloved cider.

Each location’s menu is individually tailored depending on regional specialities, making for a playful, unique dining experience. Take,

for example, the tasty Cornish blue cheese and gouda in ‘The Four Cheese’, or ‘The Pendennis Piggy’ pizza, featuring smoked Primrose Herd bacon.

The Stable’s impressive range of cider again includes a few local flavours, from St Ives Barnaluz to Helford Creek. If you can’t decide, don’t worry – the famous cider tasting boards are a must-try: five samplers taken from the sumptuous selection.

If you happen to find yourself on the north coast, The Stable at Fistral Beach offers a waterside location that’s equally aweinspiring. But rather than bobbing boats, you’re vista is completed by surfers riding the waves behind the golden sands. Aside from the delicious cuisine, Fistral is all about that incredible view. So, after a dip in the sea, order a refreshing glass of Polgoon berry cider, tuck into the spicy, warming ‘Fistral Fire’ pizza and savour one of the world’s finest sunsets.

Absolute bliss!

THE STABLE Old Custom House, Arwenack Street, Falmouth TR11 3JT 01326 211199 Fistral Beach, Headland Road, Newquay TR7 1HY 01637 878311 www.stablepizza.com Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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We wanted to do something Cornish and extra special for St Pirans Day on 5th March. We pride ourselves in using exclusively Cornish ingredients in almost every dish on every menu already so we needed to up the ante.

By using our network of fantastic local suppliers we are able to give you not just a Cornish menu, but an entire menu based on the products we can get within a 5 mile radius of the restaurant.

Running throughout March alongside our Dinner Menu will be the 5 Mile 5 Course Tasting Menu.

It’s not just Cornish, it’s more local than that.

On arrival (3 miles) Aval Dor Vodka Bleddy Mary with vittals To start (4 miles) St Austell Bay mussels steamed with Haye Farm cider and sage Main course (3 miles) Mr Kittow’s plate of pig with Colwith Farm potatoes Dessert (5 miles) Richard’s rhubarb with Trewithen Dairy cream custard Cheese (3 miles) Cornish Fenugreek Gouda and wild garlic puffs with sweet onion jelly

19 Fore Street, Fowey, PL23 1AH 01726 337076 • www.theglobefowey.co.uk • www.facebook.com/Globefowey FCM 18--AD--Globe Fowey--1.00.indd 1

22/02/2016 16:46

foodie

A new

HORIZON Introducing the chic, new-look Trebah Kitchen featuring delicious dishes from Executive Chef Daniel Gvalda.

T

his winter the award-winning café at Trebah Garden has undergone a complete transformation. As part of the Garden Trust’s commitment to re-investing in the garden and its facilities, the café has been redesigned from the floor up. Local Interior Designer Anna Hart has worked closely with the Trebah team to produce a scheme that’s both sensitive to the architecture of the impressive visitor centre and fully functional as a practical working space. The result: a fresh, bright, contemporary space with clean lines and pops of vibrant colour.

Trebah felt it was essential that as many elements of the refurbishment were local.

Much of the furniture has been sourced from MARK Product, designers and manufacturers of furniture within the county. Local Lighting Consultant Eleanor Bell provided a fresh new scheme with the addition of a gargantuan handmade chandelier designed by local artist and craftsman Tom Raffield.

Arriving with the exciting new look café, Trebah welcomes Executive Chef and Catering Manager Daniel Gvalda. Dan is Michelin

trained and has worked alongside chefs such as Calvin Clarke. You may recognise him from Master Chef, where he progressed as far as the quarterfinals, cooking up dishes with a strong French influence. Talking passionately about his plans for the development of Trebah Kitchen, Dan pictures “feast nights and seafood barbeques on summer evenings”, going on to mention “a renewed focus on Cornish quality; the specials board will feature ever-changing bistro-style dishes utilising seasonal ingredients alongside a set menu of tasty Trebah favourites.”

Trebah Kitchen is open daily for breakfast from 10am, lunch is served from noon until 2.30pm and visitors can enjoy teas, coffees and cakes throughout the afternoon until 4pm.

Menus

Keep up with menu developments on twitter via @TrebahKitchen

ë MAIN Diners enjoy idyllic views of the gardens ê BELOW Executive Chef Daniel Gvalda

TREBAH GARDEN Mawnan Smith, Nr. Falmouth TR11 5JZ 01326 252200 www.trebah-garden.co.uk Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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Cornwall Living full page Feb 2016.pdf

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Delicious seafood

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Got to visit...

HOOKED ON THE ROCKS Overlooking Swanpool Beach and Falmouth Bay, Hooked on the Rocks is only a short walk from Falmouth Town with views to Pendennis castle and St Anthony’s lighthouse. Whether you’re soaking up some rays, or storm watching, this wonderful beachside bistro offers an impressive backdrop to your dining experience.

The restaurant sources the majority of its seafood and shellfish from the local Newlyn market; the freshest produce reflected in the diverse menu. For the casual eaters, there’s an exciting tapas menu, perfect if you want a light bite or create the ultimate sharing feast.

With a pan-Asian influence, the menu offers a wide range of fish dishes, with meat and vegetarian options too. The signature platters are a great way to try the local shellfish, with the choice of adding a crab or lobster from the in-house tank. On Sunday lunch, enjoy a serving of the Hooked! Roast, with all the trimmings and a smoked Tintagel cauliflower cheese that has gained an avid following, so make sure you book ahead!

Hooked on the Rocks is great for a morning coffee in the sun, a long and lazy al fresco lunch, or the perfect way to end a hard day out and about.

Opening times: Monday to Saturday, 10am to 3pm, 5pm ‘til late, with food served 12pm to 2.30pm, 6pm to 9pm. Sunday 10am to 5pm, with food served from 12pm to 2.30pm.

HOOKED ON THE ROCKS Swanpool, Falmouth TR11 5BG 01326 311886 www.hookedcornwall.com/hooked-on-the-rocks/ Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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foodie

A refreshing

CHOICE

We sample the wonderful array of specialist and craft gins and tonics available at Constantine Stores.

I

Rumour

Ps. I heard rumours of a new Cornish gin called Trevethan that has now come into stock…

nnovation is the name of the game when it comes to gin; an overcrowded market means it must be unique to stand out in an ever-burgeoning crowd. With Easter approaching, I popped down to Constantine Stores to see if any of its 200 gins would fit the bill for a G&T with a difference.

I was offered three new gins to taste, all of which were reassuringly different. As always, the knowledgeable staff provided me with background information on each before pouring a measure for sampling. They also advised on the importance of using a quality tonic and recommended either Fever Tree, 1724 or the brand new BTW tonic, all of which are made from natural quinin.

I tried the Swedish Herno Juniper Cask Gin that hails from the northernmost distillery in the world and the only distillery in Sweden that's dedicated solely to making gin. This ultra-premium gin is aged in small juniper wood barrels, a technique that only this distillery uses due to the difficulty crafting with this wood. Herno gin has reaped so many accolades that it has become the most awarded spirit from 2012 to 2015.

Next up was the confusingly named Japanese Gin; it’s actually made in Cambridge by William Lowe, creator of the world’s most expensive gin. It’s globally the

first to combine juniper with traditional Japanese botanicals that are staples of Japanese cuisine; Shiso leaf, Sesame seeds, Cucumber, Sansho and Yuzu. This would be great with crab or sushi!

Finally Cotswolds Dry Gin; it’s distilled in a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty among the splendour of the Cotswolds. This is the first and only distillery to be built here and has very eco-friendly credentials; they even grow their own indigenous botanicals to distil with!

The gins were all very individual and their unique flavours were really pronounced and distinct from one another and, more importantly, from the quagmire of ‘samey’ gins that seem to be prevalent. If these don’t tickle your taste buds then you could always try the latest trend from Spain by adding your own botanicals! Constantine Stores now stocks packs of Special Touch Botanicals which you can drop into your drink and inject some life back into your favourite gin!

ë ABOVE A small sample of the 200 plus different gins and mixers available at Constantine Stores

CONSTANTINE STORES 30 Fore Street, Constantine, Falmouth TR11 5AB 01326 340226 sales@drinkfinder.co.uk www.drinkfinder.co.uk Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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FROM SEA TO PLATE

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foodie

Pop up

The New Inn in Goonhavern offers a unique blend of style and comfort in which to enjoy your meal.

PERFECTION The country’s top chefs help students bring fine dining to Truro & Penwith College.

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ith pop-up restaurants and eateries becoming all the rage in towns up and down the country, bringing world foods to new audiences, Cornish students are getting in on the action while getting the chance to work with the finest of the country’s chefs.

Following a week recreating classic dishes from Nathan Outlaw’s recipe books, Professional Cookery students at Penwith College worked with Outlaw’s acclaimed Head Chef, Tom Brown, to host a stunning pop-up evening at Senara Restaurant in Penzance.

Tom, currently at Outlaw’s in the Capital and formerly of St Enodoc in Rock, worked with aspiring chefs from the college to offer guests a delicious menu featuring dishes including seaweed cured salmon, cucumber chutney and horseradish yogurt; braised ox cheek, smoked mash and watercress; and hot chocolate tart with clotted cream, orange and whiskey syrup.

Toby Whitty, of St Ives, says: “Tom was getting us to do things right, as they are done in a restaurant kitchen. He expected our work to be of a professional standard and at the same time was really pleasant to work with, always asking us questions about what we were doing.”

The next event on the horizon for Senara is to open its kitchen to Stephane Delourme and Stuart Pate from Rick Stein’s The Seafood Restaurant for a similar evening in May. But it’s not just Penzance that’s experiencing the power of pop-ups.

Spires Restaurant in Truro has hosted a series of themed evenings, including everpopular dinner and jazz nights. The team is now looking forward to welcoming Jack Stein on board to work with The Rick Stein Academy students at Truro College for a special evening in May. Claire Frearson, Professional Cookery lecturer, explains: “There are huge benefits to these pop-up restaurants. It offers real working environments for the students to work with professionals that they respect and can learn from for their future careers.”

It’s not only the students who benefit though, as lucky members of the public get to experience the best of the country’s fine dining right here in Cornwall.

ë MAIN Truro and Penwith College tutor Tony Duce prepping the Rick Stein Academy Apprentices ê BELOW Jack Stein lends his professional touch to dishes in the Spires restaurant at Truro College

TRURO & PENWITH COLLEGE Spires Restaurant, Truro College Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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foodie review

A fabulous feast

IN FOWEY

There can be few things in life finer than the combination of convivial surroundings, a belly full of delicious food and a glass of the finest wine.

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or the ageing rockers amongst us, ‘Two Out Of Three Ain’t Bad’ but to hit the jackpot and bag all three, you know that you’ve happened upon something really quite special. With a history to be proud of, walking into Fowey Hall is like stepping through the front door of your rich uncle’s house. Commissioned by Charles Augustin Hanson in 1889, this stunning mansion has a unique character. Now a listed building, it combines the laid back atmosphere of a country house with the elegance of a Victorian manor, remaining in the Hanson

family until it was sold in the late 1950s.

Current owners, Luxury Family Hotels, spent almost the entire first year of ownership restoring Fowey Hall to its former glory, retaining and preserving its unique heritage.

Such is its charm that Elton John almost bought it as a private dwelling – thankfully he didn’t, as his loss was our gain.

Fowey Hall boasts ‘contemporary, childfriendly luxury’ and that’s exactly what we experienced. There’s a choice of two dining rooms: a garden room for more informal dining, where children are welcome and can run in and out with ease, and a more formal traditional restaurant. We opted for the garden room as were dining with children and were not disappointed.

It’s the little things that make the difference and at Fowey Hall attention to detail is everything – crisp linen tablecloths, gleaming cutlery and attentive but unobtrusive service.

I could wax lyrical for many paragraphs about the surroundings but we were there to eat so I should move on to the food…

Plymouth gin cured salmon gravlax with crab beignet and pickled cucumber was my starter of choice and what an excellent choice it was, succulent, fresh and full

"Plymouth gin cured salmon gravlax with crab beignet and pickled cucumber was my starter of choice and what an excellent choice it was, succulent, fresh and full of flavour"

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ì ABOVE Afternoon tea on the patio or by the fire í BELOW A selection of dishes from the menu

of flavour. My dining partner chose the tandoori spiced grilled halloumi with a cooling cucumber raita and declared it a triumph – vegetarian starters are so often a let down, but certainly not in this case. The children were brilliantly catered for with baskets of fresh bread and prompt delivery of their main courses – they were never without something to eat which was great as it meant we could enjoy our dinner without small people demanding to be entertained.

For them, steaming bowls of pasta and mouth-watering homemade burgers were the order of the day.

Our main courses were equally delicious.

The venison kiev for me, which I chose with some trepidation but that came highly recommended by our waiter, was a success.

Similarly, the crisp buttery pastry of my partner’s goat’s cheese and Mediterranean tart was a match made in heaven. The children all had Cornish ice cream for desert, always a winner in our family. For us, the cheeseboard is a must and with a mixture of local cheeses and homemade chutney we feasted well.

Head Chef, James Parkinson, is passionate about his food and local provenance is

always at the forefront – he grows herbs in the hotel’s garden and ingredients are sourced locally wherever possible. He’s a family man, which shows in his children’s menus and certainly makes the world of difference when dining ‘en famille’.

One of the other great things about eating at Fowey Hall is the ‘verre de vin’ system which means there is a vast selection of wines available by the glass, including bubbles.

This is genius – it means you can take up the recommendation of a different wine with each course and sample a variety of Camel Valley wines, amongst others. The true test of a good meal, especially when dining with children, is the comments at the end: “Delicious, yummy, and just lush,” were the watchwords to the end our delightful meal.

We all left the restaurant with happy hearts and fond memories of a delicious meal in glorious surroundings.

Every issue, we dine undercover at a different restaurant, tasting the menu and putting the team through their paces in search of the finest eateries, freshest produce and best service. It’s a tough job but someone has to do it! Look out for our ‘Tried & Tasted’ seal of approval.

FOWEY HALL HOTEL Hanson Drive, Fowey PL23 1ET 01726 833866 info@foweyhallhotel.co.uk www.foweyhallhotel.co.uk Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

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foodie

Colourful

Flavours We discover Rick Stein’s Café: fabulous fish, informal dining and child friendly.

I

t’s a February afternoon, the wind bites but the sun is shining. Between appointments, my editor and I have ended up in Padstow, head of the Camel River and one of Cornwall’s top foodie destinations.

We wander past the harbour, taking in the view across the estuary to Rock – blue-grey, rippling waters and sandy beaches – before making our way up crooked streets. There, tucked in the heart of town, is just the place for lunch: Rick Stein’s Café.

We are welcomed by Matt, the manager, who shows us to one of the natural wood tables. We admire a couple of sea-inspired sculptures before sinking into nautical print cushions and resting our eyes on the light, calm and cosy space.

In no time at all, my companion is presented with a bowl of mussels, coconut, ginger and a hint of red chilli. I set myself to peeling my salt and pepper prawns.

They are delicious (luckily the relaxed setting permits the licking of fingers) and the Asian side salad, with crunchy bean sprouts and sesame soy dressing, is beautifully refreshing.

Next comes my madras fish curry of

gurnard, served with fluffy rice and a huge poppadum. It’s spicy, but the chunky gurnard holds its own. My fellow diner’s dish is light: a miso-drizzled salmon fillet with vermicelli noodles, spring onion and chilli. We savour the taste of freshly-landed Cornish fish, while the colourful flavours take us far away to the East… but back we must come, because it’s time for pudding!

We people watch over a sunken chocolate cake and a plate of blue cheese served with oatcakes, honeyed walnuts and quince jelly.

The family on the neighbouring table peruse the children’s menu; small faces light up at the prospect of homemade fish fingers, or, if they’re feeling adventurous, moules marinière.

Each dish proves just the right size for lunch (and pudding an indulgence we can’t resist). We are content, reluctant to leave and the newspapers by the bar call for settling down with a coffee… however, it’s time to get back to the office.

We thank Matt and his team for their wonderful service and step outside. The sun is lost behind a cloud, but platefuls of seriously good food have left us feeling warm. Our verdict? Certainly worth a visit!

é ABOVE Mussel masala with coconut, green chillies í BELOW LEFT Madras fish curry î BELOW RIGHT Salt and pepper prawns

words by:

Lottie Grant

Rick Stein’s Cafe Middle Street, Padstow, PL28 8AP /RickSteinsCafe 01841 532700 www.rickstein.com Find out more online: www.cornwall-living.co.uk

Images courtesy of: David Griffen

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LA BOUCHE CREOLE Summerleaze Crescent, BUDE 01288 352451 www.labouchecreole.co.uk

New Orleans native, Todd Varnedoe, has a flair for creating wonderfully flavoursome dishes, using fantastic local produce, that bring an authentic taste of The Big Easy to Bude

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Enjoy menus inspired by Cornwall’s top chefs. For one night only.

Jack Stein, 5th May Spires Restaurant, Truro College

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Stephane Delourme & Stuart Pate, 13th May Senara Restaurant, Penwith College TRURO & PENWITH COLLEGE Senara Restaurant, Penwith College, St Clare, Penzance t: 01736 335215 email: senara@penwith.ac.uk Spires Restaurant, Allen building, Truro College, Truro t: 01872 267621 email: spires@truro-penwith.ac.uk

Booking highly recommended

www.truro-penwith.ac.uk/restaurants

05/06/2014 07:57 22/02/2016 11:37