Explore Penwith

Explore

Penwith ISSUE 01 | 2017 | £3.25

Paradise FOUND From bistros to boutiques, discover the magic that draws artists and foodies to Penwith

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CORNWALL’S WILD WEST

JUST ADD WATER Getting up close with the stunning wildlife beneath the waves

DAYS OUT

Creating memories to last a lifetime

TOUR THE TIN COAST

Exploring the majestic ruins of the industry that shaped Cornwall

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Editor Mandy Milano mandy.milano@enginehousemedia.co.uk Editorial Manager Felix Rowe Design Manager Chloe Searle Design Jamie Crocker - Spencer Hawes - Rhi Wills

Welcome to penwith

Media Assistants Dan Warden - Annie Cowen - Jason Fletcher production@enginehousemedia.co.uk Production Manager Hannah Tapping hannah.tapping@enginehousemedia.co.uk Marketing Assistant Jamie Osborne

For all editorial, production, marketing or design enquiries: 01326 574842 Credit Control Tracy Speak - 01326 574842 tracy.speak@enginehousemedia.co.uk Accounts Manager Charlotte Forster - 07714 718471 charlotte.forster@enginehousemedia.co.uk Sales Director Jeni Smith - 01326 369433 jeni.smith@enginehousemedia.co.uk Sales Manager Ian Grant - 01326 369429 ian.grant@enginehousemedia.co.uk Business Development Managers Sam Roberts - 01326 369428 sam.roberts@enginehousemedia.co.uk Geoff Pullin - 01326 369427 geoff.pullin@enginehousemedia.co.uk Sales Support Assistant Adam Parrott Operations Manager Miguel Belert miguel.belert@enginehousemedia.co.uk Systems Support Manager Joanne Stinton joanne.stinton@enginehousemedia.co.uk Commercial Director Jonathan Perkins - 07587 072706 jonathan.perkins@enginehousemedia.co.uk Group Director Andy Forster - 07711 160590 andy.forster@enginehousemedia.co.uk

the far west of cornwall is a beast

MANDY MILANO

entirely of its own.

Penwith is a world of contradictions – wild and raw, though inherently beautiful; a remote peninsula jutting out into the sea, yet the birthplace of global communications. Amongst other things, Penwith is widely celebrated for its quality light, a feature that has drawn artists from far and wide to set up colonies over the years in St Ives, Newlyn and Lamorna. We shine a spotlight on the rich and diverse art scene and galleries that have taken root (page 30), before taking a more in-depth look at a couple of future masters in the making (page 32).

Editor

The area is also increasingly becoming known as a foodie centre, both for its deliciously fresh produce and the plethora of restaurants, bistros and cafés scattered across the coast (page 47).

Penwith is replete with wonders of the world, both natural and manmade, from St Michael’s Mount to the Minack Theatre, perched on the cliffs above Porthcurno. We suggest a few great days out with the family (page 17). Why not take a tour of the tin coast? Discover more about the industry that helped to shape Cornwall (page 14). Flicking through the magazine, your eyes will no doubt be drawn to the range of awe-inspiring imagery, some of which was shot by our good friend and award-winning photographer Carla Regler (www. carlaregler.com). If you’d like to have a go at capturing the magic of west Cornwall yourself, why not contact Carla about her on-location workshops? But, of course, Penwith is not all wild walks and coastline, there’s fantastic shopping to be found in Penzance and St Ives too. Lose yourself among the independent shops, boutiques and artisan stalls (page 38).

There’s plenty more to discover in our guide, and we hope to see you soon on your next adventure as you explore Penwith. n

Mandy

PROUD TO BE PART OF

Penwith Guide is published by: ENGINE HOUSE MEDIA LTD Holbrook, The Moors, Porthleven, Cornwall TR13 9JX

www.enginehousemedia.co.uk www.levenmediagroup.co.uk Engine House Media Ltd is a multi-platform media business with a passion for everything Cornish. Visit www.enginehousemedia.co.uk to find out more. Our mission is to create READ-WATCH-EXPERIENCE media opportunities marrying together consumers with the fabulous businesses across Cornwall. Our publishing and marketing teams are specialists in creating print and on-line communications, devised to achieve a range of marketing objectives. With over 20 years of marketing, brand management and magazine experience we develop effective communications that deliver your message in a credible and creative way. We operate across all media channels, including: print, online and video.

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ON THE COVER

Cape Cornwall, courtesy of Visit Cornwall, Adam Gibbard.

EXPLORE PENWITH

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CONTENTS

Explore

Penwith

Contents 06 WILD AND WONDERFUL

With stunning scenery and golden beaches at every turn, Penwith really does have it all.

08 MAP

A useful guide to some of the many sites of interest, beaches and walks.

10 GUARDIANS OF THE COAST

The evocative and romantic lighthouses across Penwith, including the iconic landmark at Godrevy.

14 TOUR THE TIN COAST

Discover Penwith’s mining heritage and explore the ruins of the industry that helped shape Cornwall.

17 A GRAND DAY OUT

Enthralling days out with the family, from Jubilee Pool to the Minack Theatre perched on the clifftop.

20 JUST ADD WATER

Wildlife spotting beneath the waves from pods of dolphins to mighty basking sharks.

06

ISSUE 01 | 2017 24 PENLEE LIFEBOAT ON CALL

A blustery day out with the everyday heroes of the RNLI, helping to keep our coastline safe.

27 COUNTRY HOUSE RETREAT

Trereife House and Gardens, perfect for getaways, unforgettable weddings and fantastic days out.

28 THE GARDENS OF PENWITH

Get lost and find yourself in a subtropical paradise, where vivid colours and sweet scents fill the air.

30 AN ARTISTS’ MECCA

A look at the unique qualities of Penwith that have made it a firm favourite for local and visiting artists.

32 MASTERS IN THE MAKING

Shining the spotlight on two inspiring and very different artists set to become the icons of tomorrow.

38 SEASIDE SHOPPING

Browse the array of unique boutiques, artisan stores and quirky shops in Penzance and St Ives.

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28 10

30

14 47 42 ANCIENT PENWITH

A visit to some of Penwith’s fascinating pre-historic sites imbued with myth and legend.

47 FOOD GLORIOUS FOOD

Home to some of the best produce you’re likely to find, we sample some of the region’s fab fare.

24

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WALKS

Credit: Visit Cornwall Adam Gibbard

WILD AND WONDERFUL With stunning scenery at every turn, West Penwith really does have it all. Û ABOVE

Porthcurno Beach

Ü BELOW

Credit: Visit Cornwall Adam Gibbard

Cape Cornwall

C

ornwall might be able to boast stunning natural beauty at every turn, but arguably nowhere has quite the range of beauty that can be seen across Penwith. With sheltered coves, cliffs of rugged granite and moorlands etched with purple heather, Penwith is the mecca for walkers, photographers, artists, foodies and those who simply want to stand and soak in the scenery.

There are so many stunning spots for a hearty stroll that it’s often hard to choose.You can embark on a ramble up and down the wild cliffs of Zennor and play hide and seek with the little ones amongst the outcrops of granite before peeling off and walking across the ancient patchwork of fields behind. Gwithian offers an ideal place for children and dogs to run free and play amongst the undulating dunes. Or, spend a balmy day

walking the coast between Lamorna and Porthcurno, home to the Telegraph Museum; a stretch so beautiful that stopping at every headland is a must, not an option! When out on your walks make sure you keep an eye on the beautiful blue seas as you might just spot a seal or even a basking shark.

Of course, during your walks, you will undoubtedly notice the incredible beaches and coves nestled within the coastline. Indeed, popping down to a beach during your walk is not only an ideal reprieve from the sun overhead but a chance to find a barely occupied stretch of sand. The further off the beaten track a beach is, the more likely you are to enjoy it all to yourself!

There is nothing like lying on a deserted beach with cliffs standing tall behind you and crystal blue waters glistening ahead – just remember to take care

Ü BELOW

St Michael’s Mount

Credit: Carla Regler – www.carlaregler.com

words by:

Annie Cowen

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Mousehole

Ü BELOW

“THE BARBARIC AND MAGICAL COUNTRYSIDE OF ROCKY HILLS, FERTILE VALLEYS, AND DYNAMIC COASTLINE OF WEST PENWITH” – BARBARA HEPWORTH Indeed, if you plan your trip to Penwith wisely, you can squeeze quite a few of these sights and experiences into a single day! Spend a day walking the cliffs, catching the landmarks as you go, with the odd dip in the sea to refresh you, visiting the world-class galleries, before ending with a meal at St Ives, a show at the Minack Theatre or a drink in Marazion overlooking St Michael’s Mount. There really is something magical about this corner of Cornwall, and not just due to the local legends of mermaids and giants. The scenery is as wild and dramatic as we read about in novels and yet it is completely accessible. With such scenery on our doorstep it is a wonder we get anything done!

Û ABOVE

MinackTheatre

Ü BELOW

St Ives

Credit: Visit Cornwall Matt Jessop

Sennen Cove

wherever you venture, and don’t find yourself cut off by the tide! Some of the top beaches in the county for surfing can be found along this diverse coast. Sennen Cove is an ideal spot for surfing as not only is there a variety of waves ranging from two feet in front of the car park and six feet at the Gwenver end, but the showers and restaurant overlooking the beach make it an ideal day out. Gwithian is another popular surfing spot as the long stretch of sand means there is space for everyone and when the wind is just right it’s ideal for windsurfers.

From exciting things to do we move onto incredible things to see. Indeed, Penwith boasts some truly iconic Cornish landmarks. Marazion is home to the impressive St Michael’s Mount, which can be accessed via the causeway when the tide is out or by boat when the tide is in. Further around the coast, you’ll find the famous Logan Rock still balancing steadily on the headland. Continuing around the cliffs a bit more you can catch a play at the amazing outdoor amphitheatre, Minack Theatre, which is nestled in the side of the cliff above Porthcurno. And, of course, no Penwith trip is complete without standing at the Land’s End headland with the Atlantic stretching before you and Cornwall at your back.

Credit: Visit Cornwall Matt Jessop

Û ABOVE

Credit: Visit Cornwall Greg Blundell

Credit: Visit Cornwall Adam Gibbard

WALKS

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Credit: Visit Cornwall Adam Gibbard

MAP

Pendeen Watch

WEST PENWITH Get and explore Penwith, from rolling hills and stunning seascapes to family attractions you won’t find anywhere else. See the key for page references to discover more.

morvah

B3318

Cape Cornwall st just

B3306

Whitesand Bay

A30

sennen

LAND’S END

Treen

Crib Logan

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MAP

The Island The Carracks st ives carbis bay

B3306 zennor

B3311

morvah A30 B3309

18

madron A3071

PENZANCE

marazion

A30 catchall

NEWLYN

St Michael’s Mount

0 B3283 mousehole st buryan

B3315

St Clements Isle

lamorna

Lamorna Cove

en

Cribba Head

Key

Mine p14

Surfing

Train Station

Swimming

Airport

Beach

Ancient Monument p42

Theatre p17

Garden p28

Gallery p30

Dining p47

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DAYS OUT

Evocative, romantic and essential, our iconic lighthouses stand strong against all that nature has to throw at them. words by:

Mandy Milano

Credit: Carla Regler – www.carlaregler.com

GUARDIANS OF THE COAST

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Credit: Carla Regler – www.carlaregler.com

DAYS OUT

Û TOP Ù LEFT

Godrevy, standing guard, at the beginning and end of the day

C

ornwall has the greatest concentration of lighthouses to be found anywhere; not just simple beacons and harbour lights, but ones that are celebrated as magnificent examples of the lighthouse builders’ skills. Walk along the coast path and catch sight of a lighthouse perched out at sea or on some rocky headland and you can’t help but be amazed at how on earth anyone ever managed to build it there!

Looking from the land, the Penwith coast is dotted with magnificent beaches, beautiful bays and spectacular headlands; somewhere to explore, enjoy the sun and maybe picnic on a warm day. But from the sea, it’s a very different story. In the days of sail the weary mariner would see inhospitable beaches with vicious surf, bays waiting to trap him in an onshore wind, with forbidding cliffs offering no hope of rescue if he was driven under them, and submerged rocks and small islands ready to tear the bottom off the boat. There have been nearly 1000 known wrecks around Cornwall and the Isles of

Scilly plus countless unknown ones. With just a few rudimentary lighthouses and beacons about, it was the Victorians who really perfected the lighthouse builders’ art, especially around the Cornish coast.

We can only stand and marvel at the bravery of the men who built them and then the lighthouse keepers who lived in them, generally four weeks on and four weeks off – but that would depend heavily on the weather. If the relief boat couldn’t reach them because of the poor conditions, then they had to stay… there are plenty of tales of men living on the lighthouse for 12 weeks or more!

And they make for a wonderful destination; the views will be spectacular, there is always a bit of the coast path to walk along and maybe a secluded beach to sit and ponder on; with a cosy pub or café for some well-earned food and drink. All lighthouses are privately owned by Trinity House and the public do not have an automatic right of access, but some do open to the public and they all make a stunning backdrop for a photo!

“IF THE RELIEF BOAT COULDN’T REACH THEM BECAUSE OF THE POOR CONDITIONS, THEN THEY HAD TO STAY… THERE ARE PLENTY OF TALES OF MEN LIVING ON THE LIGHTHOUSE FOR 12 WEEKS OR MORE!” EXPLORE PENWITH

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Credit: Alvaro

DAYS OUT

GODREVY LIGHTHOUSE

WOLF ROCK LIGHTHOUSE

Standing on Godrevy Island in St Ives Bay with stunning views across the bay to St Ives, Godrevy is well worth a visit. The lighthouse famously inspired the celebrated writer Virginia Woolf in her 1927 masterpiece, To the Lighthouse, after visits to the area with her family (although her novel places the fictionalised lighthouse on the Isle of Skye, in Scotland). There’s a National Trust car park with walks along the coast path to take in the views and maybe spot a seal or two on the rocks below. And, huge expanses of gorgeous, sandy beaches to relax on; the area is very popular with surfers. There is a great café for drinks and delicious locally sourced food.

Lying 8¾ miles from Land’s End, often spotted from the Scillonian on her journey to and from the Isles of Scilly. This dangerous rock was the graveyard for innumerable ships until the tower was finished in 1870.

Light: Flashing white 1 second in every 10; 8-mile range Fog signal: none

PENDEEN LIGHTHOUSE

This lighthouse stands on the headland known as Pendeen Watch, less than 2 miles from Pendeen village. On a clear dark night a keeper on watch in the lantern could just see the light from Trevose Head Lighthouse but only at low water. Apparently the earth’s curvature between the two places is just sufficient for the rising tide to then obscure it from view! The lighthouse is open to the public.

Ý TOP LEFT

Wolf Rock

Û ABOVE

Pendeen

Light: 1 white flash every 15 seconds; 23-mile range Fog signal: 1 blast every 30 seconds

TATER DU LIGHTHOUSE

It was the tragic wreck of the Spanish ship Juan Ferrer in October 1963 with the loss of 11 lives that finally got the Tater Du Lighthouse built on this headland with the same name. This is a spectacular and rugged part of the coast path to walk.

Light: 3 white flashes every 15 seconds; 23-mile range Fog signal: 2 blasts every 30 seconds

So, there you are. Go take a look at one of our iconic and lifesaving lighthouses. Still as vital today as they ever were, to anyone on the sea; a wonderful sight for those of us on land. I defy anyone to stand on the headland at Pendeen or out on the coast somewhere on a misty evening and not be moved by the sight of the flash of brightness from the lighthouse and the mournful sound of the foghorn. n

Ü BELOW

Tater Du Lighthouse

Light: 4 white flashes every 15 seconds; 16-mile range Fog signal: 1 blast every 20 seconds

LONGSHIPS LIGHTHOUSE

Light: Every 10 seconds; 15-mile range Fog signal: 1 blast every 10 seconds

FOR MORE INFORMATION WWW.TRINITYHOUSE.CO.UK

Credit: geograph.org.uk

Longships is built on a small island about 1¼ miles from Land’s End, a major tourist attraction with car park, hotel, and cafés. When the lighthouse was manned the keepers’ families lived in the cottages on the clifftop. The wives used to send messages to their husbands in semaphore from the upstairs windows and they could send one in return by standing in front of the white lighthouse door.

FOR WALKS WWW.SOUTHWESTCOASTPATH.ORG.UK WWW.VISITCORNWALL.COM

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DAYS OUT

TOUR THE TIN COAST

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Discover the Tin Coast and explore the iconic ruins of an industry that helped to shape Cornwall.

ornwall is steeped in mining history, the iconic remains of which have defined its landscape. To those of us who have grown up here, they feel like part of the furniture, rooted as firmly in the ground as the oldest of oaks, and yet it’s all too easy to forget the significance of the history that they represent.

During the 18th and 19th centuries, Cornwall played a pivotal role in the world’s mining industry, pioneering new technologies and exporting them across the globe. Such a role would prove to have a huge impact on the Cornish landscape and nowhere is this more evident; nowhere will you find a more beautiful juxtaposition of sea, sand, sky and rolling countryside against the stony remains of industry than west Penwith, along the seven-mile long Tin Coast.

words by:

Dan Warden Ù LEFT

Credit: Carla Regler – www.carlaregler.com

Botallack is a great spot for dramatic views of the sea and sky

YOU MUST VISIT...

“BOTALLACK WOULD ONCE HAVE BEEN VERY MUCH ALIVE WITH THE SOUND OF ENGINES CRUSHING THE EXTRACTED ORE AND THE GENERAL HUMDRUM OF INDUSTRY”

As you make your journey to west Penwith, be sure to stop by Tregonning hill, near Ashton. At the top, you’ll find unbeatable views out across the peninsula of everything there is to see between the south and north coast, including a wealth of industrial ruins. It’s like looking at a map!

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Credit: Nilfanion cc-by-3.0

Credit: National Trust – John Miller

DAYS OUT

There’s plenty to see above and below ground at Geevor

Geevor Tin Mine

Cape Cornwall

Pendeen Deriving from the area’s Cornish name, ‘Stennack an Gever’, Geevor Tin Mine dates back to before the 17th century. Now, you can go underground and discover Geevor’s fascinating history as well as that of the Cornish tin and copper mining industry.

Land’s End peninsula Having opened circa 1838, Cape Cornwall Mine is situated on the cape itself and you’d be forgiven for mistaking the chimney for a lighthouse! While the mine’s history is relatively unremarkable, the location itself is well worthy of a visit, being on the UK’s western extremity and offering simply awesome views out over the Atlantic.

Levant Mine and Beam Engine

Ü BELOW

Perched atop the cliffs, Levant enjoys some stunning views

Trewellard, Pendeen Head west from Geevor and you’ll find Levant Mine and Beam Engine. Having first appeared on a map circa 1748, by 1836, 320 men, 44 women and 186 children were employed on the site. In 1919, the man engine failed, tragically killing 31 men. Pay a visit and you can follow the miners’ footsteps through the tunnel to the man-engine shaft; hear the tales of Edwardian miners and take a guided tour, discovering all the site’s secrets.

Did you know?.

The chimney atop Cape Cornwall could easily be mistaken for a lighthouse

Botallack

Near St Just While it makes for a peaceful visit with nothing to hear but the rush of the waves against the rocks below, Botallack would once have been very much alive with the sound of engines crushing the extracted ore and the general humdrum of industry. Again, similarly to Levant and Geevor, Botallack was a sub-marine mine, working half a mile out beneath the seabed! There is evidence to suggest mining took place here during the mid-Roman period, around 200AD and even during the Bronze Age. n To find out more about the stunning Tin Coast and the National Trust’s tireless work to preserve it, visit WWW.NATIONTRUST.ORG.UK/DAYS-OUT/

Explore the dramatic setting of Botallack

Credit: Warrens

TIN-COAST

Ü BELOW

Credit: Nilfanion cc-by-2.0

It’s believed that miners gave the pasty its ‘D’ shape in order to form a handle with the crimp. This would prevent the rest of the pasty from being contaminated with the dirt and arsenic covering their hands. Pick yours up from Warrens Bakery, Penzance and enjoy an authentic pasty picnic as you gaze out to the Atlantic.

Û TOP

Credit: Andrew Bone cc-by-4.0

Û TOP

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Over 450 hand-picked cottages throughout Cornwall

The Cornish holiday makers.

01841 533331 www.cornishhorizons.co.uk

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DAYS OUT

A GRAND DAY OUT Credit: Steve Farrier

Getting out and about in Penwith isn’t all about rolling hills and stunning seascapes. Family attractions that you won’t find anywhere else should definitely be on your to-do list! words by:

Dan Warden

Û ABOVE Ú RIGHT

The Minack Theatre, a true wonder of the world

MINACK THEATRE

Porthcurno With more than 150,000 visitors coming just to look at the Minack – one of the world’s most famous outdoor theatres – you have to wonder what makes it so appealing.

There’s a thriving amateur and professional theatre scene filling the Minack’s schedule, which makes for some excellent viewing for families looking for drama, comedy, tragedy – you name it – all with the opalescent backdrop of the Atlantic.

Before you head into the theatre, as you pass through the gate leading from the car park, bear left and head past the main entrance. Just up from here the path meanders round and down the cliffs towards Porthcurno beach and as you stand overlooking the beach – even on the most overcast afternoon – you’ll be stunned by how clear and bright the water is.

WWW.MINACK.COM

PARADISE VISIT PARADISE PARK PARK

Check out more than 140 species; get up close and personal with some incredible animals; take a picture with a penguin! Paradise Park, Hayle is a year-round, all-weather attraction, great for keeping the kids busy.

WWW.PARADISEPARK.ORG.UK

Ù LEFT

Get up close at Paradise Park

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WITH THE ONLY L SURF LY

SCHOOL IN ST IVES

PORTHcafe MEOR

sandwiched between the tate and porthmeor beach is where you’ll find us. our friendly staff will greet you with a choice of inside, on the terrace or tucked away in one of our heated booths. we boast the best sunset in the west, perfect for people watching, checking the surf and even the occasional dolphin show.

OPENING HOURS 9am - 9pm serving breakfast, lunch and dinner reservations for dinner only 5.30 - 9pm please call 01736 793366 or email porthmeorcafe@gmail.com

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Credit: Telegraph Museum

DAYS OUT

TELEGRAPH MUSEUM PORTHCURNO Credit: Telegraph Museum Porthcurno

Porthcurno In today’s world, it’s hard to imagine life without computers or mobile phones and even harder to imagine how people got in touch without them.

Porthcurno Telegraph Museum connects the dots between then and now. Fun fact: Porthcurno was once the most connected valley on the planet!

Let the kids try out Morse code or go underground and discover Cornwall’s secret World War II tunnels, carved deep into Porthcurno’s granite cliffs. With a café serving seasonal, fresh food that even welcomes dogs, there’s really no reason not to visit!

WWW.TELEGRAPHMUSEUM.ORG

Û ABOVE

Fun and educational days out are guaranteed at theTelegraph Museum

JUBILEE POOL

Credit: Penzance BID

Penzance Ever wondered what it’d be like to swim in an Art Deco lido that’s filled with seawater as the tide of the south coast rushes in? Well, look no further!

The Jubilee Pool on Penzance’s promenade is a fantastic way to make the most of the Cornish summer sun. After its official reopening last year, the pool was alive throughout the high season with paddle boarding, poolside yoga and families generally making the most of weather. If you do one just thing, put Jubilee Pool up there on Penwith’s ‘must experience’ list.

WWW.JUBILEEPOOL.CO.UK

Ù LEFT

Jubilee Pool in Penzance, an Art Deco masterpiece

Tremenheere Riding Stables

Ú RIGHT

Credit: Tremenheere Riding Stables

Enjoy a riding lesson on the beach with Tremenheere Riding Stables

Ludgvan Open to all riders and all abilities, Tremenheere Riding Stables offers a joyful and fun activity for those interested in riding, especially beginners. Choose from group or private lessons, show jumping, hacking and beach riding on Marazion beach, across the water from the iconic St Michael’s Mount.

WWW.TREMENHEERERIDINGSTABLES.CO.UK

VISIT LAND’S END

With stunning clifftop scenery and endless views out to the Atlantic, head to the end of land as we know it, pick up your walking guide and free heritage booklet from the visitor centre and see what all the fuss is about!

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OCEAN WILDLIFE

Dive beneath the waves to discover the array of beautiful marine wildlife found off our shores.

P

ods of dolphins, mighty basking sharks and elusive blue sharks are just some of the wonderful creatures you might be lucky enough to spot in the waters around Penwith. From awe-inspiring wildlife to beguiling shipwrecks, if you’re thinking of taking the plunge beneath the waves, then this really is the place to do it.

A good place to start is with Charles Hood, a respected underwater photographer, who runs shark and sealife safaris off the coast of Penzance. A keen and well-travelled diver, he knows these waters and their inhabitants arguably better than anyone. “Where else in the world can you live within a mile of the coast and observe such a variety of marine life?” explains Charles.

“Within half an hour of leaving home in St Hilary I can be swimming with basking sharks, snorkelling with blue sharks, playing fin tag with Atlantic grey seals or

Credit: Charles Hood

words by:

Felix Rowe

Credit: Charles Hood

JUST ADD WATER

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OCEAN WILDLIFE

Ù LEFT

Xxxxxx xxxxx xxxxx xxxx

Credit: Charles Hood

than it should be.” So what is Penwith’s best dive site?

“There are so many fantastic sites it’s difficult to pick a favourite,” says Charles. “However, it would probably be the Runnelstone. A mile offshore of Gwennap Head, this complex critter encrusted reef rises from a depth of 50 metres to just below the surface.

“As well as the prolific amount of marine life, the seabed is littered with numerous shipwrecks including the famous carrier the City ofWestminster, which founded in 1923. There are so many wrecks around the Runnelstone it’s sometimes impossible to determine which particular one you are diving on!”

Û ABOVE

Charles Hood

diving on a historic shipwreck.” As well being an accomplished diver, Charles is on the pulse with technology, using GPS and echo sounders to locate sites, and satellite data on sea temperatures, chlorophyll levels and warm currents to track down the larger sea creatures.

Charles shares more than a little in common with Porthleven filmmaker, and founder of Shark Bay Films, John Boyle. Like Charles, John has travelled the world, diving in oceans with beautiful wildlife, but it’s telling that they both chose Cornwall as their base. I catch up with John and his collaborator, Fionn Crow, in their studio. “Mount’s Bay is Shark Bay to us!” John says with a smile. “The West Country has some of the clearest waters in the UK, being a fringe that juts out into the Atlantic,” continues Fionn. “Plus the gulf stream brings a lot of interesting life here; the water is warmer

Û ABOVE

Fionn Crow

“WHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD CAN YOU LIVE WITHIN A MILE OF THE COAST AND OBSERVE SUCH A VARIETY OF MARINE LIFE?” But arguably nothing leaves a more lasting memory than the sight of basking sharks – gentle giants of the ocean, the second largest fish in the sea, and frequently spotted off the coast of Penwith. “By far my most incredible encounters have been snorkelling with basking sharks,” says Charles. “The largest one we spotted was over nine metres long and probably weighed over ten tonnes. In September 2008 the waters of Land’s End experienced a second gigantic plankton bloom and the Celtic Sea was simply brimming with basking sharks gorging on the nutrient rich waters. There must have been over 400 sharks – just an incredible sight.

Being plankton feeders they don’t have any teeth and

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John Boyle

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31/03/2017 16:40

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Credit: Charles Hood

OCEAN WILDLIFE

Û ABOVE

John Boyle

are harmless to humans.” Charles’ pièce de résistance is his ability to track down the allusive blue shark, a naturally shy fish, not used to human interaction.

“They can be found within an hour’s boat journey from Penzance but you need a secret concoction of ‘rubby-dubby’ to attract them. One occasion we had several blues around the boat when they all of a sudden disappeared – behaviour usually indicative of a larger predator in the immediate vicinity. A couple of minutes later a dozen or so pilot whales simultaneously blew and surfaced right beside our boat – what an incredible spectacle to witness!”

“It’s fantastic increasing people’s awareness of the sheer diversity of wildlife off our coast, which in turn leads people to respect and protect it,” says John.

Charles takes a similar stance: “Providing operators are responsible and take care as far as possible from disturbing the wildlife then bringing people and animals together is a fantastic way to both educate and encourage conservation.”

All three are keen to debunk the common misconceptions of all sharks as devious, bloodthirsty human hunters. “People still have this mentality that sharks will attack,” concedes John. “But the sad truth is we are the predators – worldwide, sharks are being seriously overfished.” Fionn chips in: “As a diver, you’re a strange creature in the shark’s environment.You’re far more likely to see the tail of a shark disappearing than a mouth coming towards you!” In fact, if respectful of these unique and largely peaceful creatures, there

can be nothing more exhilarating than swimming with sharks in their natural habitat. But if the idea of swimming with sharks sends your blood cold, there are always opportunities to experience some of the magic from the comfort of dry land. “So much of Cornwall’s wildlife can be witnessed from the shore using a good pair of binoculars,” says Charles. So, if you’re patient and keep your eyes peeled on a clear summer’s day, you might just be in for a treat – whether dolphins, sharks, whales or seals. As Fionn points out, many of these creatures are in fact here all year round, it’s just that we’re more likely to see them in the summer, owing to the typically flatter seas, clearer visibility, and the warmer weather which draws plankton to the surface, bringing basking sharks up from the depths.

Charles encourages everyone to experience it firsthand: “Get out there and do it! Whether it’s walking the South West Coast Path with a pair of binoculars, chartering a vessel or donning a wetsuit and snorkelling with sharks, give it a go. The most common comment I receive from my guests when taking them out is, ‘I had no idea of just how much wildlife there is off the coast of Cornwall – you must have one of the best jobs in the world’.” n

Û ABOVE

The elusive blue shark

SHARK BAY FILMS www.sharkbayfilms.co.uk

CHARLES HOOD www.charleshood.com

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DAY IN THE LIFE

RNLI PENLEE LIFEBOAT Meet the everyday heroes who keep our sailors and fishermen safe, whatever the weather. Û ABOVE

The crew of Penlee Lifeboat

words by:

Felix Rowe

F

ollowing the coast road through Penzance on a bitter, blustery Sunday morning, thunderous waves crash against the sea wall, with nothing but a swirling expanse of grey beyond. Surely today’s training exercise with the RNLI’s Penlee Lifeboat crew in Newlyn must be cancelled?

In fact, the very suggestion is met with amusement; lifeboat crews don’t get to pick and choose the sunny days. It’s an all-weather operation and, by the job’s very nature, they are probably more likely to be out in bad weather helping boats in distress.

A poignant reminder of the dangers these men face daily presents itself upon arriving at the station, near Newlyn’s fish market: a large plaque commemorating the eight Penlee crew who lost their lives in the 1981 tragedy. On 19th December, Solomon Browne went to

All images courtesy of Chris Yacoubian

A DAY IN THE LIFE OF

the rescue of Union Star. Sadly, despite their “heroic endeavours”, none returned alive and 16 people in total died in the disaster.

I meet Coxswain Patch Harvey, who’s joined by a rotation of mostly volunteers, from all walks of life.

Today, among the dozen or so crew are chaplain Julyan, army veteran Marcel, cinematographer Chris, and born-and-bred Newlyn fisherman Andrew.What unites them all is a love – and deep respect – for the sea, the adrenaline thrill, and a desire to help those in need.

The camaraderie among them is infectious, the jovial spirit belying the job’s inherent jeopardy. As Chris explains, “It’s a real community spirit, which extends across the whole country too. Whether here in Penlee, Scotland or wherever, we share these common experiences.”

Ú RIGHT

Coxswain Patch Harvey

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DAY IN THE LIFE

Û TOP

On exercise with an iconic (and now retired) Sea King helicopter of RNAS Culdrose

Ü BELOW

The Severn Class all-weather Lifeboat, Ivan Ellen

Patch explains that today will just be a routine exercise, motoring a few miles offshore in the mighty Severn Class all-weather lifeboat, Ivan Ellen.Yet we’ve barely left the harbour and already we’re headed towards a distressed yacht, just of St Michael’s Mount. Is this part of the exercise? No, there’s been a change of plan; this is the real deal! It’s one of the first ‘shouts’ for some of the volunteer crew, so I’m lucky (if that’s the right word) to witness it first-hand. Part of the yacht’s rigging has sheared away, leaving the mast dangerously exposed to the winds. A testament to their experience and training, the lifeboat crew react swiftly and real danger is averted. Ultimately, it’s a fairly routine tow back to harbour to make the relevant repairs.

However, as Marcel explains, it’s not always so straightforward. A week earlier, they completed a night-time rescue, 35 miles off the coast, helping a boat with engine failure. It’s difficult enough being thrown around in gales, but when it’s pitch black too, it adds another element to the danger and confusion.

They finally returned to safety in the small hours, after 13 hours at sea.The Ivan Ellen lifeboat carries 5,500 litres of fuel, and 2,000 litres, £1,000 worth, was burnt during the rescue. Having spent 13 years in the forces, including tours in Afghanistan, Marcel is not one to be easily ruffled, “but that one was a bit scary!” he jokes.

The day’s exercise continues and, as we plough through force 6 to 7 gales, it’s hard to tell exactly what is rain from above or spray from below! As my face turns through various shades of green, taking that seasickness tablet earlier seems a wise move.

One thing that becomes clear from the wake at the stern is the sheer power of this mighty machine; but also the tenacity of the men on board. We return to the comfort of dry land, giving time to reflect on the amazing experience. But while there’s a novelty factor, you have to respect those volunteers who go out every single day, risking their own lives to save those of others. When everyone else is fleeing danger, these guys are the ones heading directly into it. n

Û ABOVE

The RNLI comes to the rescue of a small yacht near the Mount

PENLEE LIFEBOAT STATION

Newlyn, Penzance TR18 5HW – 01736 369246 www.rnli-penleelifeboat.org.uk

DISCOVER MORE

As a charity, the RNLI relies on donations to keep operating.

The station has almost reached its target of £200,000 towards building a new station, with work planned to start soon.Visit the website for more info. Look out for the fascinating new book, Service Not Self, an illustrated history of Mount’s Bay lifeboats

by Rachael Campey.

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www.mackerelskycafe.co.uk

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DAYS OUT

Û ABOVE

Trereife is a Queen Anne Manor and home to the Le Grice family

IN THE HEART OF THE WEST

Û ABOVE

Enjoy the summer sun in the glorious gardens ofTrereife

Home to the Le Grice family for seven generations,Trereife House and Gardens is now open to the public and available for unforgettable weddings and tranquil getaways.

W

ith the often rugged beauty of Cornwall drawing visitors from near and far, it is a true delight to stumble across a country house.

They provide a stunning contrast to the wild scenery surrounding them, with their lovingly restored architecture and expertly kept gardens.

One such example is the handsome Trereife House and Gardens on the outskirts of Newlyn and Penzance – make sure you pronounce it Treave so that you blend in with the locals! In the six years since its appearance on the Channel 4 series, Country House Rescue,Trereife has become a successful bed and breakfast and a stunning location for weddings and events. From May to October, the gardens are now open on Tuesday,Thursday and Sunday afternoons, with house tours at 2pm.The best part is, admission to the gardens costs just £3 per adult and £1 per child. For tea and a tour, it's only £10!

The history of Trereife House is fascinating.The Queen Anne front is actually the back of an Elizabethan farmhouse, which can be seen from the cobbled courtyard to the rear. Overlooking this are two selfcatering apartments and Trereife also offers bed and

breakfast.The gardens include formal and informal areas and provide a peaceful haven in which to wander and get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.The walled garden contains medlar trees, the fruits of which are used to make jam.What’s more, the former tennis lawn is the perfect spot for a marquee, with Mounts bay visible in the distance.

So, whether you want to spend the afternoon exploring the grounds with a cake and coffee, fancy a relaxing break in the heart of west Penwith or want to hold your special day amidst elegance and romance, Trereife is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. n TREREIFE HOUSE & GARDENS

Penzance, TR20 8TJ, 01736 362750 WWW.TREREIFEPARK.CO.UK

OPENING TIMES

ç LEFT

Adjourn to the well-lit drawing room

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GARDENS

THE GARDENS OF PENWITH With a climate that’s often warmer than the rest of the UK, Cornwall affords garden enthusiasts a great deal to see and discover.

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Dan Warden

Credit: L Simar

words by:

04/04/2017 15:28

Credit: National Trust – Andrew Butler

Credit: Jolyon Holroyd

GARDENS

Azaleas and rhododendron, Trengwainton Garden

You have to see the tree fern pit atTrewidden

T

he gardens of Cornwall are so much more than stretches of borders and well-maintained walkways. They represent another world of gloriously unfamiliar smells; of colourful tapestries that even the most green-fingered visitors can’t help but be impressed by. So, be sure to pencil at least one of these into your itinerary next time you’re out and about in west Penwith.

TRENGWAINTON GARDEN

Given to the National Trust due to the importance of its plant collection, Trengwainton contains many rare specimens from around the world, including unique rhododendron hybrids. This makes it a great place for gardening enthusiasts to come and explore and, when you consider the Tiddlers Trails and Seasonal Spotter sheets designed to keep your little ones happy, it becomes a day out for the whole family! For those who find walking difficult, there’s an all-terrain mobility scooter available to hire and, what’s more, the garden is dog friendly, so you can keep their tails wagging.

There’s also a tearoom that serves lunch between 12 and 3pm, as well as homemade cakes and cream teas throughout the day – what else do you need?

WWW.NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK/ TRENGWAINTON-GARDEN

TREMENHEERE SCULPTURE GARDENS

Ù LEFT

A stroll through Trewidden can feel like walking among giants!

Set in a sheltered valley near Penzance, Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens makes the most of the microclimate in the winter, with a vast array of exotic plants flourishing all year round. What’s more, the site’s unique setting puts visitors in good stead for some excellent wildlife spotting, so keep an eye out for bunnies, buzzards and a whole host of other wonderful Cornish critters!

VISIT

For more gardens around Cornwall, visit the National Trust website.

WWW.NATIONALTRUST.ORG.UK

Credit: Jessica Silver

Û TOP

Û TOP

With an ever-changing schedule of art exhibitions as well as some impressive and thought provoking sculptures, Tremenheere needs seeing to be believed.The view over the vista towards St Michael’s Mount, alone, is enough to impress! On top of this, thea team recently opened the new gallery which, with its stunning, oak-framed interior from Carpenter Oak and Norsk Carpentry, is host to some fascinating work from well-renowned artists (see more about galleries on page 30).

For the kids, pick up a Children’s Adventure Map and make exploring the gardens fun. Be sure to bring a lead, too, as your dog will certainly relish the opportunity to sniff his or her way around the trails!

Ù LEFT

Tremenheere combines nature with sculpture, with beautiful results

WWW.TREMENHEERE.CO.UK

TREWIDDEN GARDENS

Trewidden, first and foremost, is one of the Great Gardens of Cornwall. Unusually, instead of being linear like so many other Cornish gardens, its 15 acres include a network of winding paths, interspersed with an impressive collection of more than 300 camellias, champion magnolias as well as extensive and unusual plantings.You’ll also find some of the northern hemisphere’s finest stands of soft tree ferns and the nationally recognised Rhododendron Kurume Azalea Wilson 50 collection. Truly, Trewidden is a gardener's paradise and, being relatively flat, it’s easily accessible for most people. The best part is, you can even bring the dog!

On a sunny afternoon, you’re bound to need refreshments and the tearoom is there to oblige, serving homemade light lunches, cream teas and cakes as well as a wonderful range of gift and plants to take home with you.

Credit: L Simar

WWW.TREWIDDENGARDEN.CO.UK

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ART

Credit: Mike Newman – www.mikenewman.photography

A PLACE OF INSPIRATION The combination of the clarity of natural light found across Penwith with the striking and varied landscape makes this corner of Cornwall a firm favourite of local and visiting artists.

Û TOP

Lighthouse Gallery, Penzance

Ú LEFT

Tate Gallery, St Ives

R

ural and coastal landscapes, along with the astonishing quality of light, have been drawing artists to west Cornwall for nearly 200 years.

Cornish scenes have been depicted in many artists’ work, in numerous styles, and Penwith, in particular, Credit: Visit Cornwall Ian Kingsnorth

has been home to an amazing number of artists across the years, many of who were a part of the two prominent art schools in Newlyn and St Ives.

The Newlyn School consisted of artists who lived in or around the Newlyn area between 1880 and early 20th century. They were drawn by the famed natural light, but stayed for the idyllic scenes witnessed around the beautiful fishing village. Their paintings often portrayed fishermen hard at work or women standing by the sea, anxiously awaiting the return of their fathers, sons, husbands and brothers. Lamorna was also a popular spot for the Newlyn artists, especially

words by:

Annie Cowen

Ù LEFT

‘Where Have AllThe Songbirds Gone’, Maggie O'Brien – Summerhouse Gallery Ú RIGHT

‘TheWren’ Bank Square Gallery

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Credit: Mike Newman – www.mikenewman.photography

Credit: Mike Newman – www.mikenewman.photography

ART

Û TOP

‘Ruby’,T C Gotch – Penlee House

SJ ‘Lamorna’ Birch who lived there, the rich and beautiful landscape providing the perfect inspiration.

You can find the largest collection of works by the Newlyn School artists at Penlee House Gallery and Museum. While there is a permanent selection of paintings portraying local heritage, there are also exhibitions that change regularly, giving you the chance to view old favourites alongside new and engaging pieces.

St Ives also boasted an impressive colony of artists at the same time as the Newlyn School, with their work gradually progressing into more abstract works. Ben Nicholson, Alfred Wallis and Christopher Wood formed the colony, with artists such as Barbara Hepworth moving to the area in the 1940s.

Art remains a key feature of Penwith’s identity.

All you have to do is stand on one of the many beautiful headlands on a sunny day and you will understand why. Watch as the ever-changing sea crashes against the rugged granite cliffs, which are stippled with the deep green and yellow of gorse and the soft purple of heather, all seen with crystal clarity thanks to the famous Cornish air. It’s no wonder that this striking landscape has been the feature in so many works of art as the magnificent beauty can be translated to any medium including paint, pastels, sketches and sculptures.

If you want to view this art for yourself you can find a plethora of art galleries dotted around Penwith.

Of course, one of the main attractions is the Tate in St Ives, a mecca for art lovers. Providing its visitors with British art from 1500 to the present day as well as international modern and contemporary art and the Barbara Hepworth Museum, the Tate has earned its sterling reputation and stunning seaside location.

Having recently been refurbished, there has never been a better time to explore the fascinating world of art in Penwith. n

Û TOP

DISCOVER MORE

Lighthouse Gallery

A few art galleries to tempt you into Penwith: Ledgerwood-Walker Studio, Newlyn: WWW.LEDGERWOOD-WALKER.CO.UK

The Cowhouse Gallery, Perranuthnoe:

Û ABOVE

‘Red and Yellow Moorland’, Steve Slimm

WWW.COWHOUSEGALLERY.CO.UK

Lighthouse Gallery, Penzance: WWW.LIGHTHOUSE-GALLERY.COM

Bank Square Gallery, St Just: WWW.BANKSQUAREGALLERY.CO.UK

Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens, near Gulval: WWW.TREMENHEERE.CO.UK

Jeremy Sanders Studio, Drift: WWW.JEREMYSANDERS.CO.UK

Tate, St Ives: WWW.TATE.ORG.UK/VISIT/ TATE-ST-IVES

Summerhouse Gallery, Marazion: WWW.SUMMERHOUSEGALLERY.CO.UK

Penlee House Gallery and Museum, Newlyn: WWW.PENLEEHOUSE.ORG.UK

Newlyn Art Gallery & The Exchange: www.newlynartgallery.co.uk

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ART

Û ABOVE

MASTERS IN THE MAKING

Trudy at work in her Penwith studio

Arts writer Mercedes Smith spotlights two rising stars of contemporary art to look out for in 2017.

R

words by:

Mercedes Smith

espected as one of Europe’s leading centres of creativity, west Cornwall is an inspirational location with a world-class art scene, and the extraordinary diversity of work being made here attracts collectors from around the globe. For art lovers who like to be ahead of the game, I’ve selected a couple of rising stars of contemporary practice whose very different modes of working showcase the breadth of talent on show in 2017.

“I LET THE PAINT LEAD ME, RESPONDING DIRECTLY TO COLOUR ON CANVAS SO THAT THE COMPOSITION EVOLVES ORGANICALLY”

TRUDY MONTGOMERY

Trudy Montgomery is one of the next generation of artists in Cornwall whose work is part of a direct line of British expressionist painting which has its roots in the ground-breaking abstraction of artists such as Patrick Heron and Peter Lanyon.

Since the 1950s, the intuitive use of colour, mark and gesture in Cornish painting has aligned works made here with those of European and American abstraction, works in which the canvas becomes an arena for exploring the expressive qualities of paint. Now living and working in an idyllic corner of Penwith, Trudy recently returned to the UK after 14 years in California, a place which, as demonstrated in her bright, beautiful palette and wide canvases, parallels the pure light and coastal landscape of our own west coast.

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ART

Ú RIGHT

Gaia

Ú RIGHT

“My work is very much an exploration of colour,” says Trudy. “I let intuition guide each decision regarding colour, tone and brush selection, as well as the placement, direction and intensity of gesture on the canvas, and I use a variety of techniques including staining, layering and scraping back to build texture and interest. It’s important that I abandon any early form of ‘prettiness’, or other markings I get attached to which could shut down my creative flow. I let the paint lead me, responding directly to colour on canvas so that the composition evolves organically – though there may be uncomfortable phases of accident or chaos – and the final painting is typically very different to the work I first imagined.”

Û ABOVE

Threshold

Alchemy

“MY WORK IS VERY MUCH AN EXPLORATION OF COLOUR” The sheer size of canvas and strength of colour in Trudy’s works make for deliciously emotive viewing, and hints of landscape in these otherwise highly abstracted paintings make her exhibitions akin to an intensely joyful, semi-spiritual walk through the more beautiful parts of your own imagination. Having exhibited to acclaim in London, Dubai, Los Angeles and Berlin, her career is surely one to watch for those with a passion for the ongoing history of Cornish painting, and serious collectors of abstract art. n TRUDY MONTGOMERY WWW.TRUDYMONTGOMERY.COM

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The

Cowhouse Gallery

www.jeremysanders.co.uk Open studio • Art courses • Demonstrations • Tutorials and Holidays

Situated in the picturesque coastal village of Perranuthnoe, the Cowhouse Gallery is run by a group of artists and craftspeople in West Cornwall.

Open Daily

www.cowhousegallery.co.uk 01736 710538

TR20 9NE

Beautiful day, Bells Hill Zennor - Amanda Hoskin.

54/55 Causewayhead, Penzance t: 01736 350555

www.lighthouse-gallery.com

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ART

Û ABOVE

Lifelines

ALICE FREEMAN

St Ives born Alice Freeman’s work focuses primarily on what she calls “the dark edge of beauty”. Through both sculpture and exquisitely detailed metal plate etchings, she explores the textural qualities of natural and biological forms, creating works which are at once visually appealing and oddly disturbing.

Ù LEFT

Flux

“I AM INTERESTED IN THE WAY AN ETCHING CAN TAKE ON SCULPTURAL QUALITIES...”

Working in a wide range of materials including paper, ink, latex, light and papier-mâche, Alice’s thought provoking pieces are as much about the phenomenon of viewer response as the forms that inspire them. Ideas of the incongruous and intrusive are themes which run throughout her sculptural work, while ideas of decomposition and the erosion of form are reflected in the corrosive, metal plate etching techniques she uses to create her images.

“I really enjoy the process of etching,” says Alice.

“It’s the alchemy and science of it that I find most interesting, alongside the fact that you never truly know how an image will turn out until the plate is printed.

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SPACE Gorgeous Gifts for Everyone!

www.shopatspace.com at 10 The Arcade, Market Jew St, Penzance TR19 6AB

Tel. 01736 368009

Also

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and much more…

THE BANK SQUARE GALLERY The Bank Square Gallery may be small but it’s filled with fabulous artwork from some of the best artists in West Penwith and it is the studio of Nicholas, who’s artwork captures the natural beauty of this outstanding area.

25 Causewayhead ◆ Penzance ◆ TR18 2SP

01736 874455 www.harbourcrystals.com

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Opening Hours 10.00-5.00 Mon - Fri 10.00-4.00 Sat 01736788222 www.thebanksquaregallery.co.uk enquiries@thebanksquaregallery.co.uk

30/03/2017 10:53

ART

Û ABOVE

Reaching

“I spend time building layer upon layer on the etching plate before I strip it back and start the process over again. Much of my work is focused on repetition, making marks, building layers and creating textures.

By eroding the metal plate down to its core, little by little my images take on a three dimensional, visceral quality. I am interested in the way an etching can take on sculptural qualities, and how sculpture can become almost linear – a drawing in space.”

As the daughter of respected St Ives artist Ralph Freeman, Alice spent her childhood in and around the creative environment of his studio on Porthmeor Beach, recently building on this artistic pedigree with a BA in Drawing and Fine Art from Camberwell University of Arts in London and a scholarship at the Siena Art Institute in Italy. Selected in 2016 for membership of Bristol’s Spike Island Print Studios and the prestigious Royal Academy of West England Artists Network, Alice is making her mark as a uniquely promising talent amongst Cornwall’s youngest generation of artists. n ALICE FREEMAN WWW.ALICEFREEMAN.COM

Ú RIGHT

Corrosive Stage Seven

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SHOPPING

SEASIDE SHOPPING It’s not all wild landscapes in Penwith! Get your shopping fix by visiting one of Penwith’s popular market towns and discovering an array of unique boutiques, artisan stores and quirky shops.

Credit; Visit Cornwall Matt Jessop

st ives

Have you ever wanted to spend a day of relaxing retail therapy in a charming town with the sounds of the ocean gently lapping in the background? Ok, you might not have outright thought about it but once you experience it you will certainly want to go again! St Ives is an incredibly popular destination and for good reason. This seaside town is brimming with eclectic shops, seaside cafés and restaurants and a harbour ready and waiting for enjoying with an ice cream in hand.

The cobbled streets lend themselves perfectly to a laid-back shopping experience and create a lovely holiday atmosphere. There is no shortage of variety as some shops overflow with seaside trinkets and bespoke gifts, others with local fudge and treats and some with clothing and jewellery so eye-catching that walking into the person in front of you is an everpresent danger when looking at the window displays!

One such shop is the fabulously diverse Sweetlime.

Discover a mix of homeware, accessories and gifts inspired and collected from around the world, all inside this brilliant little shop in St Ives.

Explore the world of local crafts and have a look around the outdoor craft fair behind The Sloop. An inspiring collection of work by local craftspeople, this fair is perfect for finding that one-off item with which to remember your time in St Ives. If you want to dress to impress while braving the occasional Cornish winds and rain then a stop to the Common Wanderer is a must. This outdoor apparel shop can kit you out in stylish yet hardy clothing that will pass the test of time with grace and just a little touch of flair.

Û ABOVE

Shop till you drop then relax and enjoy the view ÙLEFT

A pasty or a freshly baked roll while I shop? Don’t mind if I do! ßBELOW

Be prepared for any weather with an outfit from Common Wanderer

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Delightful food in lovely surroundings.

Enjoy award winning a la carte or choose from a more informal menu.

Rosewarne Manor Restaurant • Gwinear Rd • Connor Downs • Hayle • TR27 5 JQ

01209 610414 www.rosewarnemanor.co.uk

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Mindaustkriese A treasure trove of intriguing items, unique furniture and gifts from 50 of the best makers based in Cornwall.

RNISH HEN DELI THE CO

32 01736 3305 s.c www.m akeindustrie o.uk

Offering delicious handmade fare made in-house by the team and a wealth of other foodie favourites.

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27 Market Place, Penzance, TR18 2JD

nuff pure stuff

Bohemia

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Established in 2001, the team at Pure Nuff Stuff believe in the same things you do – high quality, honesty, ethical standards, and all-round personal loveliness. It’s all-natural, too. Everything the team makes uses only vegetable or mineral ingredients, and they’re extracted as naturally as possible. Why not head over to meet them in the Egyptian House in Penzance’s historic Chapel Street?

An Aladdin’s cave of curated local craft.

Ceramics 1 Jewellery 1 Glass 1 Furniture Pictures 1 Lighting 01736 363919 54 Market Jew Street, Penzance

Image courtesy of: Carla Regler

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31/03/2017 13:28

Credit; Mike Newman

SHOPPING

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Tired from shopping?

Come and sit by the harbour and watch the boats gently bob in the water ÚRIGHT

Become absorbed in a world of fabulous gifts and sundries in Space àBELOW

Bohemia offers coastal style with a twist àINSET

There is always room in your jewellery collection for a stunning piece from Harbour Crystals

Penzance

Acting as the major market town in an otherwise rural area of Cornwall, Penzance is ideal for a spot of retail therapy with its eclectic range of big name brands and unique, local sellers. Market Jew Street is the main shopping street in Penzance and boasts a fantastic range of shops. The street’s most notable feature is the raised pavement on the north side, which provides a lovely elevated place to walk when the sun is shining overhead.

The shops along this stretch boast a mix of boutiques and independent retailers, ideal for stumbling across that special something. Space is one such shop that is bound to be hiding that perfect present, whether for yourself or someone special, as it boasts a collection of fabulous bags, jewellery, household knickknacks and a cornucopia of other tempting sundries! Similarly, discover a treasure trove of quirky crafts with which to decorate your home at Bohemia!

Causewayhead is a beautiful, cobbled street with an interesting mix of shops on either side that varies from fascinating collections of crystals to getting your treasured holiday photos framed and picture perfect. Indeed, when the sun raises its yellow head there is nothing quite like sitting outside one of the cafés and people watching as you sip on your coffee, the perfect break from shopping.

Wharfside Shopping Centre holds within it a variety of bigger named brands while Chapel Street continues the fabulous theme of one-off shops with gift shops such as Also of Penzance, a lovely shop providing customers with enviable shabby chic furniture and an assortment of beautiful gifts.

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EXPLORE

Ancient Penwith We delve into Penwith’s ancient past with a sightseeing tour of some its most iconic and fascinating monuments.

words by:

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Credit: Historic England

Felix Rowe

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Credit: Visit Cornwall Paul Watts

EXPLORE

Merry Maidens

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ornwall is steeped in myth and legend, boasting a rich cultural heritage wedded to its landscape, where fact and lore remain forever intertwined – nowhere more so than Penwith. Out in the wilds of the far west – where rugged rock meets roaring seas – the landscape is dotted with ancient monuments that hint of a mysterious, enigmatic yet tangible past; one that continues to seep into our lives, with customs and rituals that remain alive today. Many of Cornwall’s most celebrated and long-held traditions and festivities hark back to earlier times, seeking to draw a line from our ancestors to the present, while morphing, evolving and integrating other trappings along the way to create a novel and uniquely Cornish identity of their own.

Credit: Historic England

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Carn Euny

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Credit: Historic England

Ballowall Barrow

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MadronWell Ü BELOW

Chysauster

“Cornwall is full of places where people can access the ancient past,” says Peter Hewitt, of the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic. “There are hundreds of ancient monuments such as standing stones and chambered cairns which date back thousands of years. The folk customs and lore… may be said to survive in rituals and festivals as well: go to the winter festivals in Penzance, for instance. These things are conscious interpretations and revivals of an ancient way of being that help people today reconnect with their ancestors, the landscape around them and to alternative ways of seeing the world.”

Each monument has its own local traditions too, such as the Neolithic stone circle near St Buryan, affectionately known as the ‘Merry Maidens of Boleigh’, after the 19 maidens who supposedly got turned to stone for dancing on the Sabbath. Two additional stones that look on are ‘the pipers’ who had been accompanying the dancers before trying to make their escape, only to suffer the same fate.

So the legend has it, if you stand in the middle of

the circle (in a noticeably worn patch) and kiss your loved one, the relationship will last forever.

But while legends take root, embellished over time as they become deeply ingrained in local lore, the physical monuments themselves are all-too real. English Heritage’s Matt Bulford, explains the allure of these fascinating sites.

“Visits to places like Chysauster Ancient Village help us discover how people lived in Cornwall during parts of our history that remain steeped in mystery,” Matt explains. “The courtyard houses at Chysauster are so different to contemporary villages found elsewhere – Cornwall is blessed with so many unique and enigmatic places. Today, they make superb days out, perfect places to let the imagination run wild…”

Indeed, as we always attest, the best way to learn more about anything is to experience it yourself firsthand. After all, there’s nothing better than exploring the landscape and coastline with the family, followed by a hearty pub lunch. Many sites are also free to visit.

Credit: Historic England

Credit: Visit Cornwall Matt Jessop

DISCOVER MORE

“CORNWALL IS FULL OF PLACES WHERE PEOPLE CAN ACCESS THE ANCIENT PAST”

• Lanyon Quoit, near Penzance • Men-an-Tol, west Cornwall (Madron to Morvah road) • The Merry Maidens of Boleigh, near Land’s End • Trencrom hill forts (near Hayle) • Treryn Dinas and Logan’s Rock, Treen, St Levan, near Porthcurno) • Carn Euny, near Sancreed • Chysauster Ancient Village – great wildlife walks around this area (open from April) • Madron well – ancient well, famed for its healing properties. Although now has a Christian affiliation, is accepted to have much older pagan origins

Credit: English Heritage

The best way to connect with the landscape is to see it for yourself. So, with that in mind, here are just some ancient sites to explore across Penwith:

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Men AnTol Ù CENTRE

Ballowall Barrow

Credit: Visit Cornwall Paul Watts

In Cornwall’s far west, you can’t venture too far without stumbling over an ancient monument or stone circle, like the Merry Maidens, particularly in and around the Penwith peninsula. Many of the sites situated here are completely unique to this very specific part of Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly.Take Tregiffian burial chamber, for example. According to English Heritage, on entrance graves such as this: “Of 93 recorded examples in England, 79 are on the Isles of Scilly, and the remainder are confined to the Penwith peninsula at the western tip of Cornwall.”

Chysauster Ancient Village opens to the public at the beginning of April and is definitely one to visit for those looking to connect with the past. Set in stunning, rolling countryside, this well-preserved settlement of stone ‘courtyard houses’ is the perfect place to let off steam and take in the fresh Cornish coastal air. Look out for the ‘fogou’ – a mysterious underground passage, unique to the area, possibly used for storage, shelter or ceremonial purposes. Carn Euny, a short drive away in Sancreed, is another ancient village, occupied in the Iron Age, then abandoned around the end of Roman population. Ù LEFT

Credit: Jim Champion (treehouse 1977)

Chun Quoit

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We provide high quality bespoke catering for holiday accommodation and second homes. Private dining, picnic hampers, pre-prepared family dishes and gourmet BBQ’s. Contact Rebecca for more details

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Order online at www.philpspasties.co.uk or call 01736 755661 Or visit one of our shops in Hayle, Marazion, Camborne, Praze and St. Ives.

View from Penthouse 3, overlooking Penzance harbour, Mounts Bay & St.Michael’s Mount

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FOOD & DRINK

FULL OF FLAVOUR With Newlyn harbour bringing in fresh fish and the farmland favouring dairy cattle and fantastic Cornish vegetables, Penwith is overflowing with fabulous foodie hot spots that spoil you with the finest local ingredients.

words by:

Annie Cowen

W

hen planning your next Penwith adventure make sure you make the most of the vibrant foodie scene on offer. Indeed, whether you want to fill your pantry with fresh-from-the-earth veg, fill your freezer with fish right out of the ocean or you want to go and enjoy a meal out with the family, Penwith most definitely has you covered.

Fishing is a huge part of Cornish life. Colourful fishing boats can be seen bobbing in most harbours, adding a burst of vibrancy to the soft blues of the waters and a walk around a fishing town on market day will almost certainly yield you a stall or two filled with the catches of the day. But no village in Penwith has quite the reputation for fishing as Newlyn, the beautiful fishing village that inspired an entire colony of artists with its simple yet dedicated way of life.

It’s worth an early rise on market day to watch the fish being sold amidst the hustle and bustle, in fact visit a local restaurant later that day and you may well be feasting on what had earlier been bought and sold! In August you can attend the Newlyn Fish Festival, a fabulous event that showcases the local trade alongside music, cooking demonstrations and buckets of family fun! And if you love great food and golden beaches, then combine the two at the St Ives Food & Drink Festival on Porthminster beach in May. Heading inland takes us to a completely different

landscape. Patchworks of ancient fields outlined with aging, granite walls steal the gaze from the coastline. Some stand empty while others hold the cattle and crops that provide local eateries with their deliciously fresh cuisine.

Pop along to Trevaskis Farm and take a peek into life on the farm.You have the opportunity to walk around the farm, meet the animals and even pick your own fruit! Of course, you can always just visit the farm shop or tuck into a mouthwatering Sunday roast in the restaurant.

A visit to Polgoon is a unique experience for any wine connoisseur. Polgoon grows and creates amazing artisan wines, ciders and juices, all of which can be viewed first hand during a tour and tasting or tried alongside delicious food in the on site restaurant. There is just something otherworldly about walking through the curling vines in the impressive vineyard before sipping the very wine that they create.

Indeed, knowing that your food consists of freshly caught and harvested ingredients makes the meal all the sweeter and can really enhance your foodie experience. Luckily, Penwith is home to some truly inspired eateries, many of which boast views of this stunning stretch of Cornwall, giving you the chance to try the true flavours of Cornwall whilst gazing out across the landscape that inspires them.

Û ABOVE

Visit Newlyn and see first-hand the age-old art of fishing

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The Star

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PHOTOGRAPHY

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Carla Regler

Welcoming town centre pub

At least 3 real ales, one of which is always Cornish Traditional pub grub, with a carvery every Sunday Open mic night Thursdays, Live Music Fridays Function area

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New gallery now open Wednesday - Saturday just around the corner from the Seadrift Kitchen Café in Porthleven, Cornwall.

Images are available in the restaurant.

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Children and dogs welcome 119 Market Jew Street, Penzance w 01736 364606 www.starinnpenzance.co.uk @thestarinnpenzance

Half day photographic workshops with Carla, 1-2-1 or small groups, please contact us for more details www.carlaregler.com | carla@carlaregler.com

THE TURKS HEAD

01326 354171 | 07971 951698

THE CORNISH ARMS, HAYLE EXCELLENT FOOD & DRINK, LOCALLY SOURCED, WITH BEAUTIFUL FINISHING TOUCHES

Great food A Fine Ales

Great selection of wines Great selection of local cornish produce Covered and heated garden for alfresco dining

BBQ in the garden

01736 363093 turksheadpenzance.co.uk PW--2017--048.indd 1

OPENING HOURS Monday - Sunday 11.30am - 11pm

| FOOD SERVED Lunch 12pm - 2.30pm Dinner 6pm - 8.30pm SUNDAY Roast Dinner 12pm - 7.30pm

01736 753237

enquiries@cornisharmshayle.co.uk www.cornisharmshayle.co.uk 86 Commercial Road, Hayle, TR27 4DJ

31/03/2017 16:39

FOOD & DRINK

“KNOWING THAT YOUR FOOD CONSISTS OF FRESHLY CAUGHT AND HARVESTED INGREDIENTS MAKES THE MEAL ALL THE SWEETER”

Get hands on at Trevaskis Farm

THE GODOLPHIN ARMS, MARAZION

Ù LEFT

Nothing beats the view of St Michael’s Mount from The Godolphin Arms terrace

Tuck into a mouthwatering meal while enjoying far-reaching views of St Michael’s Mount at The Godolphin Arms. With a relaxed atmosphere and simply stunning views you will feel totally at ease and ready for your amazing day of exploring Penwith.

WWW.GODOLPHINARMS.CO.UK

FRASER’S FISH AND CHIPS, PENZANCE

We would be remiss not to include a fish and chips restaurant on our list of foodie musts! Set on the promenade in Penzance, Fraser’s is a bright and cheerful chippy with food that is quite simply unmissable. Made with local ingredients and cooked to perfection, these fish and chips truly celebrate this fond British favourite – they even have a gluten free option!

Credit: Mike Newman

Û TOP

Ù LEFT

Fraser’s is a true dining delight with a vibrant and memorable atmosphere

WWW.FRASERSFISHANDCHIPS.CO.UK

Fancy a meal with a view? Then look no further (literally, Land’s End is as far west as you can go)!

The restaurant overlooks the expansive Atlantic Ocean, which creates a spectacular backdrop to your meal. You can also find a variety of eateries around Land’s End, from freshly fried doughnuts to a proper Cornish pasty!

WWW.LANDSEND-LANDMARK.CO.UK/

Credit: Matt Jessop

LAND’S END RESTAURANT, LAND’S END

PAGES/EAT

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FOOD & &DRINK DRINK BEN TUNNICLIFFE SENNEN COVE, SENNEN

Another restaurant with a jaw-dropping setting, Ben Tunnicliffe’s seaside eatery boasts incredible views of the beach and a lovely terrace, perfect for a warming hot chocolate after a day in the sea.

There is just something endlessly satisfying about watching surfers battle the waves while you enjoy a superbly cooked meal in the relaxing atmosphere of the restaurant.

Ú RIGHT

Fish and chips done right at Porthmeor Beach Café

WWW.BENATSENNEN.COM

THE GURNARD’S HEAD, NEAR ZENNOR

Perched on the dramatic coastline of Zennor, The Gurnard’s Head is known as much for its amazing food as it is for its iconic yellow exterior.

Embark on a day of windy clifftop rambling before stopping off at this welcoming eatery to unwind, refuel and indulge in a fantastic meal made from seasonal, local ingredients that will add spring to your step.

WWW.GURNARDSHEAD.CO.UK

Ú RIGHT

Raise a glass at Polgoon BELOW

Gurnard’s Head BOTTOM

Delights at the Victorian Inn

A FEW MORE FOODIE DESTINATIONS THE VICTORIA INN, PERRANUTHNOE

www.victoriainn-penzance.co.uk STAR INN, PENZANCE

www.starinnpenzance.co.uk THE CORNISH ARMS, HAYLE

www.cornisharmshayle.co.uk TURKS HEAD, PENZANCE

www.turksheadpenzance.co.uk PORTHMEOR BEACH CAFÉ, ST IVES

BLACKS OF CHAPEL STREET, PENZANCE

www.blacksofchapelstreet.com THE CORNISH HEN DELI, PENZANCE MACKEREL SKY SEAFOOD BAR, NEWLYN

Credit: Paul Massey

www.porthmeor-beach.co.uk/cafe

www.mackerelskycafe.co.uk BOATSHED, PENZANCE

www.boatshedpz.co.uk PHILPS BAKERY, HAYLE, MARAZION, ST IVES

www.philpspasties.co.uk HARRY’S CALI-STYLE, HAYLE

www.theshorerestaurant.uk THE ALVERNE, PENZANCE THE ROCKPOOL, GWITHIAN

www.therockpoolbar.co.uk

Credit: Victoria Inn

THE SHORE, PENZANCE

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