AW 2018 ECCO JOURNAL

— JOUR NAL — I N N AT U R A L M O T I O N S I N C E 1 9 6 3

AU TU MN / WINTER 2018

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

AUTUMN / WINTER 2018 —

ECCO JOURNAL A J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H N AT U R E

08

THE SHAPE OF WATER — HOW THE DANISH COASTLINE BECAME A SOFT NAPPA LEATHER

20

THE FAROE ISLANDS — A PHOTO TRIBUTE TO UNDISCOVERED BEAUTY

38

LITTLE FEET IN THE WILD — DANISH CHILDREN BEING TAUGHT BY NATURE

42

CAST IN WOOD — CARVING A LIFE FROM SCULPTURE

46

BALANCING LIFE & STONE — MEDITATING WITH LAND ART

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

A D VA N C E D I N N O VA T I O N W H AT I S I T, E X A C T LY, T H AT M A K E S E C C O F O O T W E A R S O FA M O U S LY & S H A M E L E S S LY C O M F O R TA B L E ?

DIRECT COMFORT TECHNOLOGY

—4—

INSPIRED BY NATURE ECCO is not the only brand making shoes using direct-injection techniques.

But we have done it for a long time, spending decades pushing boundaries with it to deliver ever greater levels of comfort-in-motion in our footwear.

Over the years our approach to direct-injection has evolved into the distinctive FLUIDFORM™ process we use today.

ONE WAY TO D ESCRIBE I T,

standard in conventional shoemaking

SERIOUSLY, IS MAG IC

techniques. Our 3D lasts follow the

FLUIDFORM™ Technology is rooted in

natural contours of the foot, wrapping it

state-change — when one thing, like

from all sides, even on the sole, with our

a caterpillar, transforms into another

FLUIDFORM™ process following these

thing, like a butterfly. With FLUIDFORM™,

curves in its liquid state, solidifying into a

lightweight fluid materials transform into

soft and flexible replica of the original.

our soft solid soles. Like with a caterpillar,

Our signature comfort comes from

FLUIDFORM™ can easily be explained by

maintaining the anatomical integrity

science. But when you watch it happen,

of the foot perfectly and permanently

it just looks like magic.

within the shoe. We have liberated ourselves from the design and wearing

F ORM F OLLOWS F OOT

compromises that come with high

The first thing that everyone at ECCO

pressure gluing and stitching assemblies.

shares is respect for the foot. From the talented team in our International

P R E M I U M L E AT H E R .

Design Studio in Denmark, to the mad

R E A L S H O E M A K I NG

geniuses in our R&D Units throughout the

While working its magic under your feet,

world, to the futurists who work in our

the FLUIDFORM™ 'state change' process

dedicated Innovation Lab and Applied

simultaneously generates a durable,

Research group, we are all zealots when

supple and integral bond between the

it comes to human anatomy. Everything

sole and its leather upper. Wrapped

always starts with the foot.

around the 3D anatomical last, the leather must be soft, supple and natural

COMF ORT AT L AST

to continue the fit and feel benefits, and

The "last" is a shoemaker's best friend —

ensure 360-degree comfort-in-motion.

a 3D shape that stands in for the human

Every innovation that occurs in the

foot and dictates how the final product

sole, must be replicated in the upper,

will look and feel. At ECCO, we make

providing regular inspiration for our

our own lasts, designing and engineering

tanneries to develop groundbreaking

them to deliver both high levels of com-

possibilities in leather. From heritage

fort as well as contemporary, versatile

finishes, to futuristic fashion applications,

style. And because of our FLUIDFORM™

our rich premium leathers are continually

'state-change' technology, we don’t

challenged to follow the foot, and the

need to use hard, flat sole parts that are

magic of FLUIDFORM™.

—5—

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

CLAUS LØWIG NORDENTOFT, PHOTO

THE LIGHTEST TOUCH

After dark on Denmark’s west coast, you might experience a natural wonder that can be ethereal, subtle, and neon: the marine equivalent of the Northern Lights. Unlike the Northern Lights, this is deeply personal, as you’ll be the one making the sea glow. With just the gentlest of touches to provoke plankton, you can turn the waters a bioluminescent blue.

—6—

“Above me is heaven with starry sky, underneath me the water is in a moody mood.

A star is a sun — infinitely large, can be seen only against the black frame of the night.

Morild: little invisible, who lives in the sea, glows in the dark like a flame …”

S TA R A N D M O R I L D , B Y H E L G E R O D E ( 1 8 7 0 – 1 9 3 2 )

When the North Sea lights up around

Think of this phosphorescence, known

animals higher up the food chain that

you, and you find yourself night-swim-

in Danish as 'morild', which you're most

might pounce on those threatening

ming in waters glowing a neon blue, it

likely to see on a warm, still evening, as

the plankton, the creatures make their

can seem as though you've entered

a kind of marine stardust sprinkled over

own light. While that sounds like science

another world. Waters that had been

the North Sea, or as Jutland's natural

fiction, there is science fact behind

a dark, foreboding midnight blue are

neon. Or read the words of the Danish

it: light is emitted when a compound

now full of dotted light. That light can

writer Helge Rode, who was inspired to

called luciferin reacts with oxygen, while

seem bright and playful, with the dots

pen a poem in which he described the

an enzyme known as luciferase acts as

shimmering, glinting, winking, and

bioluminescent water as "glowing in the

the catalyst.

dancing; on other nights, the effect is

dark like a flame".

mysterious and subtle, or even eerie.

It’s never anything less than beautiful.

At once, the North Sea turns a neon And yet, such beauty comes from fear,

blue, and you're immediately lured to

with the light a natural defence mecha-

the light. Something similar happens

Created by the phytoplankton on the

nism that some scientists have called

when a designer creates a shoe for

surface of the sea, this light show is just

the 'burglar alarm effect': touching or

ECCO: their innovation, motion, and

as exotic, alluring, and unmissable when

disturbing the water will spark the bio-

activity gives off a light that cuts through

viewed from the beach, just after you've

luminescence. To startle fish and other

the dark and draws you in.

dipped a hand or toe in the water.

potential predators, and also to attract

—7—

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

E C C O

—8—

S H A P E

E C C O

F L U I D - T O U C H

L E A T H E R

THE SHAPE O F WAT E R N A T U R A L L Y

I N S P I R E D

E L E G A N C E

While the Danish coastline will forever be associated with Viking raids, and as the place where they pushed their boats into the icy water to set off across the seas, the shore is now the starting point for more peaceful, creative activities. Lapping waves have inspired art, music, poetry, and now the creation of a new premium material: ECCO FLUID-TOUCH Leather.

If Denmark has a national soundtrack,

While the sound initially draws you in, the

What's more, the ECCO FLUID-TOUCH

it's the soft, endless ebb and flow of

form and movement of the undulating

Leather's fine grain and elegance bring

waves on the beach. Sometimes the

waves, with their troughs and crests, their

a sophistication, style, and class to any

volume picks up, with the lapping

patterns and oscillations, and the ripples

ECCO SHAPE boot's feminine silhouette.

turning to a loud, crashing wall of noise:

across the surface, have mesmerised,

Nothing says luxury on a knee-high or

nature's own drum solo. But the waves

and more recently, inspired the creation

ankle-length boot like an ultra-thin, light-

tend to be at their most alluring when

of ECCO FLUID-TOUCH Leather. With

weight, aniline-finished calfskin with a

they are at their gentlest.

its soft slouch, its rich drape, and a

natural appearance. So soft and gentle,

luxurious, indulgently smooth surface,

this is leather as soothing and calming as

Almost completely surrounded by water,

you can detect the influence of the

paddling in the sea in the summer, with

with the North Sea to the west and

sea in this rich, premium leather.

the warm water gently breaking around

the Baltic Sea to the east, with more

your bare ankles.

than 7,000 kilometres of coastline, and

It was in 1985 that the ECCO founder,

hundreds of islands, Denmark is — both

Karl Toosbuy, bought his first tannery,

Wherever you choose to wear an

geographically and psychologically

and set about ensuring that the leather

ECCO SHAPE boot crafted from ECCO

— a maritime nation. Even in the centre

produced by his company met his high

FLUID-TOUCH Leather — you could even

of the mainland, you're never more

standards for softness and breathability.

be in a global city far from the Danish

than 50 kilometres from the waves. It's

In modern homage to this pursuit, ECCO

beaches — you will have a connection

no surprise, then, that those seas have

Leather has produced a wonderfully,

to the lapping waves.

shaped not just the shores they sculpt,

almost impossibly soft, material: the

but also Denmark's history, culture,

softest nappa in their collection. leather.ecco.com

mentality, and the ECCO design ethos.

—9—

ECCO SHAPE / 26089301291

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

ECCO FLASHGRAIN™ TECHNOLOGY LIGHT-REFLECTING MICROSPHERES

ECCO SOFT 8 / 44079301539

— 12 —

E C C O

S H I N E B R I G H T

L E A T H E R

SHOES THAT D E F Y T H E DA R K After extensive research and development, ECCO Leather has found a way to transform animal hides into highly futuristic, reflective materials that protect with prowess.

Out of the inky darkness, and without

Leather become one of the world's most

consumers to customise their shoes. As

any warning, two small, piercingly bright

advanced research and development

the upper part of the shoe changes

circles appear: moonlight is bouncing

facilities for the material. Using micro-

under the light, you can also view the

and reflecting off an animal's eyes.

scopic glass beads suspended within the

ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather as a symbol

You're in awe of how in a moment, those

pebbled 'valleys' of the leather, ECCO

of the brand's hidden innovation, found

eyes are utterly transformed by the light

Leather found a way to reflect light

in every design.

shining directly at them.

directly back to its source, completely altering the look and functionality of

For all the smart technology within the

With a reflective surface beneath the

anything made from the material. In

material, a protective topcoat makes

retinas of those eyes, torchlights, street-

the case of the ECCO SOFT 8, it's first

the leather more water repellent, as well

lamps, and cars' headlights have the

application, it adds new style, edge an

as giving it additional gloss, and letting

same transformative effect: an instant

intrigue, almost as if the sneaker has a

the natural character of the ECCO

glow. Then the moon goes behind a

playful side that only comes out after

SHINEBRIGHT Leather 'shine through'.

drifting cloud or the car turns a corner

dark.

And that's true in all light, thanks to the pebble of the leather, which gives the

and, just as quickly as they had first

shoe a more premium look and feel.

appeared, those eyes vanish back into

During daylight hours, the shoe has

the gloom. Nature often inspires innova-

a subtle, low-key appearance, with

tion at ECCO Leather, and those bright,

little to no hint of its capabilities. But

But be warned: if you go for a stroll at

brilliant eyes have led to the creation

expose ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather to

night in an ECCO SOFT 8 crafted from

of FLASHGRAIN™ technology, which

moonlight, or to a vehicle's full-beam

ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather, all eyes —

powers ECCO SHINEBRIGHT Leather.

headlights, and you'll immediately see

animal and human — might be on you.

why it's emblematic of the company's An experimental, progressive culture

passion for play. This passion is further

of constant innovation has seen ECCO

exemplified by the opportunities for

— 13 —

leather.ecco.com

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

Using DriTan™ in our Dutch tannery for a year conserves enough WATER …

ONE TANNERY IN A YEAR

— 14 —

… to HYDRATE* 2.6 million people, or a population the size of Paris for one day.

ONE P OPUL ATION O N E DAY

* A C C O R D I N G T H E G U I D E L I N E S O F T H E U N I T E D N AT I O N S A N D W O R L D H E A L T H O R G A N I S AT I O N

Follow the ECCO innovations at: leather.ecco.com and group.ecco.com/en/responsibility

— 15 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

D A N I S H

W I N T E R

B A T H I N G

A WINTER PLUNGE In the cold, dark months of winter in Denmark more than 25,000 people, spread across 93 clubs, find an icy release by plunging themselves even deeper into the crisp climate. Winter bathing is a trend that has seen a revival in recent years, with more and more young people seeking out the endorphin rush.

We speak to Marie Louise "Malou" Wedel Bruun, the Editor of ELLE, Denmark, who is a regular winter bather, to find out why sub-zero is the new hero.

ECCO SOFT 7, 45015357511

— 16 —

MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK ECCO SOFT 7, 45015357511

— 17 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK E C C O C R E P E T R AY H Y B R I D , 2 0 0 9 1 3 0 1 0 0 1 / E C C O S P 3 , 9 1 0 5 1 6 9 9 0 0 0 0

— 18 —

"It's like a fifth element. It is pure coldness, pure energy. For me, it isn't really about swimming … it's more about this rush."

MARIE LOUISE WEDEL BRUUN, EDITOR OF ELLE, DENMARK

While it has often been said that Danes

"She told me: 'I've got a membership to

"As modern persons, we don't really

have salt in their veins, embedded by

this winter bathing club. There's a sauna

have spaces to do these kinds of things

over 7,000 kilometres of coastline, Malou

and there's a dressing room, and you're

anymore. But we have found it, with

admits that her relationship with the

coming with me.' So, I said yes!"

the bathing, with this cold rush as the ignition," Malou concludes.

ocean hasn't always been so strong — despite having grown up in a place that

Set up along the coasts of Denmark,

is defined by its maritime industry.

and even in the centre of Copenhagen,

"I think that being in contact with nature

Danish bathing clubs range in size and

this way is also very important to me

"I am from Helsingør, so I was born and

facilities, with all offering saunas and

as a person because I had everything

raised with the sea, like everyone in

easy access to nearby almost-frozen

else — I had the right job, I had the

Denmark is," she says. "We have the

water, for those who are brave enough

right husband, I had the children, I had

ferries to Sweden, so the sea is part of

to jump in.

everything," she admits. "But I lacked this contact with my body because

our identity. I've always loved it, but my mother was afraid of it, and can't swim,

"The first time I went, it was the 29th of

everything I was doing had to do with

so we weren't much by the beach."

December, 2014, and there were icicles

my mind — planning and thinking and

on the steps, it was perfect," Malou

doing stuff for others, being a step

But from an early age, Malou enjoyed

says. "I got high in an instant and I was

ahead in everything."

ending her showers with ice cold water

just 'wow, this is amazing'. I got this rush

— a practice that continued after trips

of energy, and it was like my life had

"Suddenly, in the water, I just felt my

to the public pool, when she eventually

started all over again."

body. I was just being there at that exact moment, I was being present," Malou

started swimming at university.

But it was not just the endorphin rush that

says. "It was fantastic. And it still is. It has

"We have these ice baths that you can

attracted Malou, it was also the chance

become a drug to me, to be present."

dip into and people can sit there about

to be lost in conversation with her friend,

20 seconds or something," she says, "but

to explore life and its fine details in a way

"It's like a fifth element. It is pure coldness,

I could be there for minutes — forever! It

that modern life rarely affords you.

pure energy. For me, it isn't really about swimming … it's more about this rush."

stimulated me, and I loved it!" she says.

"We have these fantastic conversations," While her interest was clear, and she

she says. "My friend has become my

had already heard of winter bathing,

diary, in a way, and it is so great to have

Malou says that time and the logistics

someone to just open up to about stuff

of making it happen seemed to deem

you're not really sure of, but you need to

it a bit out of her reach — until her 40th

say, in a kind of confessional way."

birthday arrived, and a friend invited her elle.dk

to a local bathing club.

— 19 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

E C C O

O U T D O O R

O N - S H O O T

FA R O E ISLANDS U N S P O I L E D

N A T U R E

"I love the feeling that in Mother Nature you’re small and insignificant. Pure nature doesn’t care who you are or where you come from. Appreciating nature’s ever-changing beauty adds an extra ­dimension to your life, it gives you perspective."

C L A U S V I S B Y , P H O T O G R A P H E R AT E C C O

— 20 —

— 21 —

E C C O G I L L I A N , 2 8 5 6 4 3 5 1 3 8 0 / E C C O S P 3 M I N I B A C K PA C K , 9 1 0 5 4 1 2 9 0 7 3 3

AUTUMN/WINTER '18 D A R K M E T A L L I C S

— 23 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

I N S P I R E D

B Y

N A T U R E

THE OYSTER KING Migrating birds, seals, oysters, and more than 10,000 other species of animals and plants can be found in the Wadden Sea National Park in Denmark — but that’s not all.

As the tide goes out onto the mudflats, you might also run into Jesper Voss, wearing his Viking-style leather apron, and carrying a bottle of Tabasco.

At low tide, there's endless mud.

or recruitment consultant, in landlocked

over the marshlands with what appears

Beautiful, glorious, panoramic mud.

Luxembourg. He realised he would

to be an avian form of ballet, but which

Mud that reaffirms your love for

be happier with a more peaceful,

is actually a choreographed act of

Mother Nature; mud that also contains

grounded existence where he could be

self-preservation against predators.

thousands of wild oysters known for

close to the sea and connect to raw,

These murmurations are known as the

having 'lots of bite'. Such mud can be

rugged nature. "When I moved back to

'Sort Sol' or 'Black Sun' phenomenon,

found within the Wadden Sea National

Denmark 10 or so years ago, somebody

for sometimes they can cause an

Park, a UNESCO world heritage site

told me that we had wild oysters lying

eclipse-like effect.

that runs along Denmark's west coast, is

in the Wadden Sea, and I thought,

Europe's longest stretch of wetlands, and

'Wow, that can't be true'. So then I went

For the self-professed 'Oyster King', his

is truly a place of wonder.

and looked, and they were just lying

migration involves dressing for a sea

there, thousands of them," says Voss.

safari, with boots and a Viking-style

"This is untouched nature," says Jesper

"Living next to the Wadden Sea, you're

leather apron, decorated with a metal

Voss, a Dane who has made his home

constantly inspired by nature."

plaque embossed with his moniker, and with holsters for Tabasco bottles, knives,

on the island of Fanø, where he takes clients on regular oyster safaris. He

According to Voss, the tidal conditions,

pepper grinders, and hooks to hang

probably spends more time than

along with the temperature of the water,

steel buckets. He then walks a kilometre

anyone else on the mudflats.

are perfect for oysters. Twice a day, the

off the coast and into the sea, guiding

mudflats flood, with high tides bringing

groups to spots where each of them can

Close to ECCO's headquarters in

food for the oysters and other creatures.

gather 150 oysters in an hour, many of

Jutland, and known to the locals as

Within hours, the waters retreat again,

which they will eat upon returning to the

'Nationalpark Vadehavet', the site is of

exposing the mud, as well as the oysters,

beach.

great ecological importance, as it is

mussels, crabs, snails and starfishes, and

home to more than 10,000 species of

while in the shallows, you might spot

It is a simple pleasure that brings daily joy

plants and animals. And talking with

cockles, worms, prawns, and flatfishes.

to Voss, who lives by the Wadden Sea. "It’s funny, even though Fanø is a holiday

Voss, you can't help but be struck by the way it is also somewhere that inspires

Standing there in your rubber boots,

island, in the summer you can still find

and rejuvenates Homo sapiens.

shucking an oyster, you can start to

places where you're on your own with

appreciate why more than 10 million

nature and that’s fantastic," he says, but

For years prior, Voss had been living a

birds a year make this their stopover on

there are other times when the islanders

fraught, stressful life as a 'headhunter',

the East Atlantic Flyover. They fill the skies

come together: "When there’s a storm,

— 24 —

"Living next to the Wadden Sea, you're constantly inspired by nature."

J E S P E R V O S S , FA N Ø O Y S T E R K I N G

everyone on the island goes down to

really enhances the taste, Voss says

the beach to watch and to talk. I think

it's gathering the oysters yourself. He

we're all in awe of the power of nature."

has noticed how his safaris bring out the inner hunter-gatherer in his clients,

And while living off the sea is about as

giving them a connection to nature and

old school as it comes, Voss also likes

perhaps even an inner peace. "There's

to keep things fresh, and has written

something about going out into nature

an oyster cookbook that includes his

and collecting your own food. I teach

innovative new recipe for enjoying

my clients that first you taste the water

them raw: with strawberries, fresh lime

and then you taste the oyster itself —

juice, and a twist of pepper. But it is

you couldn't be closer to nature, and it's

not just the things you add to it that

just fantastic."

oystercookbook.com

— 25 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

JESPER VOSS, FA N Ø O Y S T E R K I N G

— 26 —

O Y S T E R S

Á

L A

F R A N Ç A I S E

Ingredients for 4 persons 12 oysters 75g garlic or wild garlic butter 75g grated parmesan 50g prosciutto (Fanø or parma ham) Coarse salt — Shuck the oysters and leave them in the deep halves of their shells. Top the oysters with two slivers of either garlic or wild garlic butter. Add a teaspoon of grated parmesan and roast in the oven, or cook on the barbecue grill for five minutes. Put a piece of serrano ham on top of each and let them bake another two minutes until the ham is slightely crisp. Serve immediately.

— 27 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

T H E R E VO L U T I O N A RY N E W SHOCK - TH R U C U S HI O N C O RE

ECCO ST. 83614301001

UP TO 15% MORE CUSHIONING* THAN OUR ALREADY POPULAR FLUIDFORM™ SD.PU CLASSICS

*Measured against a range of FLUIDFORM™ styles in our Compliance Lab in Denmark and confi rmed by independent testing services

ECCO ST.1 HACK, "ECICOTE"

H E L L E G R A A B Æ K , H E A D O F T E X T I L E S AT D S K D ECCO SOFT 8, 44053301001

DESIGN HACKS For the last 7 years, ECCO has partnered with the home of footwear design in Denmark, Kolding Design School (DSKD), to help inspire and embolden the next generation of shoe designers. This season, the collaboration took a different approach, with students tasked with reimagining a key ECCO silhouette in a three-tiered approach that spanned the spectrum between high-end street-fashion and an expression of abstract art.

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

Working as the Head of Textiles at DSKD,

them do, in the 'Material Futures' work-

Cornelia says they were then asked

Helle Graabæk says she feels privileged

shop — they can see gaps, connect

to use a pyramid structure — used by

to help design a course that allows

futures, and see things we have never

ECCO in its collection planning — to

students the chance to work with a

seen before. It is amazing."

build up the three-product offering.

major international company that cares.

Working much like the international

"At the top, we had the 'Halo' product,

"What I'm really passionate about today

company itself, students are divided into

where we had to go crazy," she says.

is developing future talent, and I think

cross-disciplinary groups, and given six

"Use whatever material you want

I'm just so lucky to be in this discussion

weeks to create a three-shoe collection.

to, because it doesn't have to be functional. It doesn't even have to look

with the students all the time, to see how they grow. It's a big inspiration," she says.

"I am from the Accessory stream, and I

like a shoe, it just has to hold your foot,

was in a group with a Norwegian from

and take one step."

"I'm constantly in this dialogue with

Fashion Design, Sara from Textile Design,

the students, supervising their projects,

and an exchange student from France,"

"Then we had the 'Hybrid' shoe, where

setting up the courses, trying to see: How

says student, and now ECCO intern,

we had to take it down one step,

can we do this better? So that they get

Cornelia Therkelsen.

toward thinking of a shoe, mixing it with an original ECCO sole," Cornelia says.

a good learning outcome."

"The theme we were given was Danish

"We chose the ST.1 because we saw the

She says that when the collaboration

culture," she says, "But the funny thing

coastline in the sole, and that it was a

was set up, the challenge was to

was that we all came from very different

really a good match for our theme."

maintain a strong sense of Danish design

backgrounds, and we all saw it in very

at ECCO, hoping to inspire students to

different ways."

Then finally, Cornelia says they were asked to produce a 'Hack' shoe,

follow in the footsteps of iconic designer, and DSKD alum, Ejnar Truelsen.

"But the one common thing was the

which also took an existing ECCO sole,

But over time, as the relationship has

Danish coastline — because Denmark

challenging students to think about

evolved and developed, the collabo-

is surrounded by so many, it plays a big

the function of the shoe, making sure it

ration has become more about seeing

role — we saw it as important." Cornelia

could comfortably take 1000 steps.

what is possible for both parties, about

says. "There were a lot of opportunities

inspiring each to come up with shared

in material, so we went there, took

"It was really an interesting journey,"

solutions for the future.

pictures, collected things — like stone,

Cornelia says, "Finding the right

sand, seaweed, oysters, blue mussels

combination, and design was really

— and just felt the atmosphere there."

interesting. We did the 'Hack' shoe in the

"Each year, after this course, there is a

R&D pilot facility in Bredebro. Everything

huge number of students who get really interested in pursuing a shoe career,

"What we found interesting was the

went so fast! We were in the middle of all

after seeing and hearing what's possible

gradient in colour, from light to dark," she

this energy and innovation, surrounded

at ECCO," Helle says. "When the students

says. "We also focused on the wet-dry

by shoes, surrounded by machines,

discover the politics of the company,

look, between dry sand and wet water;

surrounded by leather, and then

how well you treat people, they can't

this mix of contrasts. And also, the lines:

suddenly our pattern had turned into a

believe it."

when the water is calm and then the

finished shoe."

waves start to come in, and there's "But that's what experimenting is about,"

stormy weather." designskolenkolding.dk

she says. "This is actually what we make

— 30 —

Raw materials Consumer

Retail

Design app

Production

— 31 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

ECCO SHAPE DISCREET COMFORT TECHNOLOGY

ECCO SHAPE, 26386301001

GORE-TEX® INFINIUM™ THERMIUM™ TECHNOLOGY

COMFORT W I T H O U T

C O M P R O M I S E

In a world-first release, leading protection membrane specialists GORE-TEX® have partnered with ECCO to revolutionise women's formal shoes with a technology designed to keep feet warm and comfortable, even when the temperatures drop.

Using high-tech modelling and research, GORE-TEX® established the most crucial area to add insulation in shoes: the toe. By insulating this area, comparison tests showed that toes were kept up to 3°C warmer, perceivable for an hour longer than non-insulated shoes.

SHANGHAI L AUNCH O F

T H E

K I T T E N - H E E L

On January 16th, the all-new ECCO SHAPE Kitten Heel booties were premiered at an exclusive Shanghai launch of the latest Fall/Winter collection for women. Styled to celebrate bold, contemporary twists on dress-up/dress-down attitudes, the event featured progressive interpretations of day and evening looks and was the perfect showcase for the dramatic fashion versatility of the Kitten Heel bootie — with its discreet GORE-TEX® INFINIUM™ THERMIUM™ comfort technology elevating the luxury grade close-grained, ECCO SILK-TOUCH leather to year-round wearing.

ECCO SHAPE, 26386301333

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

ALEXANDER FIELDEN, SHOE DESIGNER

— 34 —

B E S P O K E

S H O E M A K E R

A L E X A N D E R

F I E L D E N

I N N O VA T I N G WITH CRAFTSMANSHIP What do you get when you mix a medieval-inspired bespoke shoemaker with an international footwear company, unashamedly driven by technology?

An unexpected amount of common ground. We speak to shoe couturier Alexander Fielden about his work and a somewhat unlikely collaboration with ECCO.

"I started off not knowing what I was

impossible to make. Within a year I

"I didn't realise it at the time, but they

doing at the art academy," Alexander

made a group of shoes, applied for a

had been setting up an artisanal 'stealth

says. "I knew I was on the right track to

fund, and could set up a studio."

artisan' project as a rough sketch, and they invited me to come and play."

somehow becoming a creative person, but at that time, I didn't understand a

"I got grounded physically when I found

whole lot about the world, but doing

shoes. It's the metaphor I still use every

Describing his own style as something

creative things, that gave it sense."

day — that the shoe is the first contact

"in between — a medieval untraveled

on Mother Earth, that it's where we

Future" Alexander says he finds inspira-

"When I first started designing, there

stand. Shoes have the ability to express

tion in many things, in everyday objects

was a lot of handwork," he says. "At that

how men walks through life. It's always

like curbs and pavement.

time, there were no computers for 3D

been a red thread through my life."

"It's a bit crazy," he says, "But I can be

design, you made everything by hand, and I think it really shaped me."

From 2005, Alexander made one-off,

very excited about a piece of metal

bespoke shoes, mostly for female clients,

that's been bumping around for two

But while he spent his daytime studying

from about €1500 a pair, until another

years on the street. You cannot recog-

at the Utrecht School of Arts, it was

job at a clothing store saw him fall in

nise it anymore, but somehow it has a

actually his job in a shoe store that

love again — this time with men's shoes.

reference to what it was, its 'deformation' brings the freedom of looking at

helped define his career the most.

"With women's shoes you can go crazy,"

something from a new perspective."

"I was working in a shoe store, and then I

he says. "You can do a lot of things, but

started to draw the shoes that we had in

with men's shoes, it's different. For me,

"The essence I've found within my work

the store," he says, "And I thought, 'Hey,

I always found it very daunting to play

has an alter ego — the Wanderer,"

there's something with this, I like this!' So, I

with the fact that the boundaries are

Alexander says. "He is a time traveler —

did some research and I fell in love."

much stronger."

he can move deeply into the past, and

That love saw him spend the next three

In 2010 he launched his first men's

It's all about having an open mind to

years making shoes from scratch in a

shoes and leather goods range: 'The

anything that he finds interesting."

course that included everything from

Wanderers Collection' and grew a name

measuring techniques of the foot, to

in the 'darkwear fashion' world, bringing

And while his ideas might seem to

final construction. Eventually there came

his designs to stores like Darklands Berlin,

belong in a somewhat parallel world, his

a time when he couldn't do both, so he

ISETAN and Lift Ecru in Tokyo, Hotoveli in

design sensibility is very pragmatic.

parted ways with the art academy and

New York, and Antonioli in Milan.

the untraveled future or parallel worlds.

"I don't like to fake things. If it's there,

went out on his own instead.

It was on this journey that Alexander

it needs to have a function," he says.

"I got help from a teacher — one of the

developed a relationship with ECCO

"I've never thought it before, but I really

best bespoke shoemakers in the world,

Leather, using their leathers to make his

like all these technical boundaries that

Rene van den Berg," he says. "He was

modern, medieval-inspired silhouettes,

you have to push against. That was

a teacher at the shoe course, and he

and also attending their annual 3-day

the exciting thing about working with

gave me the confidence to execute

"Hot Shop" leather innovation workshop.

ECCO — being part of a new process for them."

all the ideas that I had thought were

— 35 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

B E S P O K E

S H O E M A K E R

A L E X A N D E R

F I E L D E N

"I got grounded physically when I found shoes. It's the metaphor I still use every day — that the shoe is the first contact on Mother Earth, that it's where we stand.

Shoes have the ability to express how men walks through life. It's always been a red thread through my life.”

ALEXANDER FIELDEN, SHOE DESIGNER

— 36 —

alexanderfielden.com, @alexander_fielden — 37 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

DANISH NATURE & FOREST SCHOOLS F E A T. M A R K O S Z A N G A S - T S A K I R I S

ECCO URBAN SNOWBOARDER, 72227201303

— 38 —

D A N I S H

F O R E S T

K I N D E R G A R T E N S

LITTLE FEET IN THE WILD Denmark's long tradition of forest kindergartens dates back to the 1950s, and today as many as ten percent of all Danish ­pre-school children spend their days in nature. As people around the world become more environmentally aware, as well as more concerned about preventing child obesity, there's a growing international interest in these kindergartens.

All across Denmark, you'll find thousands

"Nature dictates the flow of the day,"

who noted that even snow or rain won't

of pre-school children running free

said Jane Williams-Siegfredsen, an

­discourage the children. "There's a

through forests, scaling trees, rolling in

expert in outdoor education, who has

­saying in Denmark that there's no such

the mud, even handling knives. These

written a book on it, and runs a consul-

thing as bad weather, just bad c ­ lothing.

kids haven't gone rogue, and this not

tancy service called Inside Out Nature.

The children put on their thermalwear

a rare event. This is a daily occurrence

"Perhaps the children will set off into the

and boots, and walk out the door."

in a country where so many young

forest looking for leaves or mushrooms,

children start their ­education in forest

or maybe it's the time of year when

You might imagine that children would

­kindergartens with no fences, and with

certain insects are out," she says.

be at greater risk of hurting themselves

seemingly no limits on the kids' freedom.

and others. "People think there will be "They have a focus, but it's very flexible

more accidents, but in fact there are

While these kindergartens exist all over

because when you go into the forest,

fewer than you have indoors because

the world, they are particularly popular

you can't control the environment. You

there's so much more space. That space

and well-established in Denmark, with

might go out and find animal tracks,

also helps to reduce conflict between

around 500 of them helping children to

which the children are interested in,

the children," said Williams-Siegfredsen.

enjoy the great outdoors. For parents

and teachers have to respond to that."

"Children also respect the environment

who have just moved to Denmark, this

more when they're outside, they're far

can be a culture shock, but children of

At a time when parents are often

all backgrounds quickly take to the idea

alarmed that their children are ­spending

more aware of it around them."

of playing ­outside all day.

so much time looking at screens, in the

For Williams-Siegfredsen, trust is para-

digital world, it is r­eassuring to see their

mount: "The children, the teachers and

Liberated from the c ­ onfines of

sons and daughters now care more for

the parents all need to trust each other."

a ­classroom and a tarmacked

the natural world.

­playground, children might spend a morning climbing to the top of a tree,

"A lot of research has been done which

or searching for worms or toadstools.

shows that a child's brain, language,

The afternoon's activities might include

and physical development are better

sharpening wood with a large knife,

when they spend most of their time

­balancing on a log, or throwing

outside. They're also healthier, with fewer

­themselves down a muddy slope.

sick days," said Williams-Siegfredsen,

— 39 —

insideoutnature.com hoendruphus.dk

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

P L AY I N G W I T H T H E PA S T For most people, turning 40 is somewhat of a cornerstone moment in their life — a time to reflect on the journey they have taken, and perhaps even a time to speculate what the next 40 years might hold. But at ECCO Kids, who celebrate their 40th birthday this year, it also means a chance to have some fun and be creative.

Born in 1978, ECCO Kids have been

their 40th birthday, Liselotte says they

colourful, and a little unlike what we're

lovingly crafting shoes for little feet in

immediately went back to the archives

doing today. So, it was very deliberate

a way that only ECCO knows how. As

to look at iconic shoes and drawings,

that we chose this look because we

self-professed 'Guardians of Little Feet'

enlisting the help of one of their original

wanted to do something out of the

for the last 40 years, they have been

designers, and now Chief Designer at

ordinary for us. We wanted to push

focussed on the freedom, comfort and

ECCO, Ejnar Truelsen.

things, compared to the typical

development of every Kids' shoe.

Scandinavian design look."

"I think we were working on three

"We use only lightweight, soft and flexible

different directions in the beginning,"

"The celebratory collection of ankle

materials to give maximum mobility and

says Ejnar, "to explore different design

boot sneakers, with their large "40" print,

comfort to the foot," says Senior Designer

routes."

fuse together the story of our heritage

Liselotte Laursen. "We focus on softness

and our future together, in a range

and cushioning, using breathable mate-

But as they looked back at the many

of options to fit infants, children and

rials to allow air to circulate, and support

shoes they had both created, one pair

juniors," Ejnar says.

little feet with functional details like

of colourful shoes stood out — the first

foot-shaped anatomical lasts, soft ankle

ECCO Junior shoes made in 1989:

Crafted from a range of premium ECCO

padding, and protective heel caps."

ECCO CENTRAL LINE.

Leathers, he says the boots mix the

When it came to creating a limited-

"One of the things we actually liked,"

of laces and closures for easy in-step

edition Anniversary shoe to celebrate

Liselotte says, "Was they were so

and adjustable comfort.

playful with the practical, with a choice

— 40 —

Years

— 41 —

Expe r t s

Es t . 1978

et

L i t t l e Fe —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

CAST IN WOOD Since 1993, the unassuming town of Højer, near ECCO’s Headquarters in Southern Denmark, has been home to an international symposium for wood sculpture with more than 60 different nationalities of artists presenting their work. But with a changing of the guard, and a new Chairman and local artist Steffie Pedersen at its helm, the annual event is set to become a full-scale art festival that embraces all elements of nature: Wind, Sea, Earth and Sky.

STEFFIE PEDERSEN, ARTIST & SCULPTOR

— 42 —

H Ø J E R

A R T

J A M

Having grown up with the Højer International Wood Sculpture Symposium, Steffie Pedersen was essentially born with a chainsaw in her hands.

"Since I could walk, I have been present at the symposium and have observed all the different artworks," she says.

"Sometimes I was given a tool and a piece of wood, so that I could try to make a small sculpture myself, and

STEFFIE PEDERSEN & GLEB TKACHENKO

after some time, I began to realise, that

ECCO SHAPE, 26740301001

I could also make art to change the minds of people, and bring happiness to

of its own. Participating sculptors

the creation process up close and

their lives."

get to know each other from event

personal — from raw material to fine

to event," she says. "There's a strong

art," Steffie says. "We hope the event will

Having started her artistic career in

sense of community where artists get

play a central role in deepening Højer's

theatre, Steffie says she also painted, but

to know new techniques and develop

reputation as a significant art destination

loved the three-dimensional challenge

themselves as artists. In fact, it's how I

within Denmark, Scandinavia and

of sculpting the most, and has done

met my husband!"

beyond."

most of her work in this area since.

Steffie's husband, Gleb Tkachenko

steffiep.com

"Sculpting wood requires a certain

epitomises the diversity of the sculpting

glebos.com

amount of concentration. You need to

world, working and exhibiting all

think about your approach beforehand

over the world, from South Korea to

because you can't change it if you

Argentina, Turkey to New Zealand.

make a wrong cut," she says. "If you make a mistake with a chainsaw it's

When he's not traveling, Gleb

pretty hard to put the pieces back

supports Steffie in her entrepreneurial

where they came from."

undertakings, including running and curating the Outskirts Art Gallery and

For her, the organic process is also

the fine art-meets functional craft

important.

furniture start-up, Højerwood.

"I like wood because it's a natural

Steffie has a clear vision for the future,

material, so it's changing all the time,"

not only for her own projects, but also

Steffie says. "When you think you have

for the creative culture in and around

finished a sculpture, after one year it

the Tondermarsk region. She and her

looks different. The wood is also telling

team of volunteers have reinvented

you about itself; it has a life of its own.

the original Højer International Wood

It tells you what it wants to be."

Sculpture Symposium for the 21st century as the Højer Art Jam.

And perhaps in some ways, her life has been much the same, with wood

"Recently I've been reflecting on how

sculpting and the symposium circuit

the event can evolve into a vital

influencing much of her life and career.

international, multidisciplinary art event

"The symposium scene can be a world

that enables its audiences to follow

— 43 —

artjam.dk

E C C O

T H E

R I S E

O U T S I D E R

O F

C O L L E C T I O N

E C C O

A W A R D

E X O S T R I K E

W I N N I N G

ECCO EXOSTRIKE 83231402539

E C C O

O U T S I D E R

E C C O

C O L L E C T I O N

O M N I - V E N T

Leveraging on the power of versatile hybridised styling, the ECCO OMNI-VENT sets new standards in ECCO design signatures, following in the footsteps of ECCO EXOSTRIKE with an ultra-modern reinterpretation of COOL and GORE-TEX速 SURROUND速 Technology.

Featuring midsole softness and bounce, and a mix of premium uppers, including i足nside-out DYNEEMA速 BONDED Leather by ECCO, its appeal is fresh and young, bridging the gap between casual, athleisure styles and more traditional new Outdoor shoes with modern versatility.

ECCO OMNI-VENT 88010454302

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

"… it is just this whole dance with nature … going out there into a beautiful place and feeling inspired to build something."

MICHAEL GRAB, LAND ARTIST SPECIALIZING IN BALANCED SCULPTURE AND PHOTOGRAPHY E C C O C O O L WA L K , 8 3 3 2 0 4 0 1 0 0 1

— 46 —

E C C O

O U T S I D E R

—

M I C H A E L

G R A B

ZEN & THE ART OF STONE BALANCING One part mediation, one part balance, and one part art; Michael Grab is a master in creating improbable stone structures. His contemplative vertical stone arrangements are the product of a gutsy move which shifted his focus and time to pure creation; on building the ability to find the ‘zero point’ within oneself, and within nature.

It was the summer of 2008 when a

2012, and I had this creative vision one

"Stone balancing is like a zen practise

chance encounter launched Michael's

day. It was during my work time, but I

because you have to learn to detach

passion for stone balancing, taking his

was like, 'okay, I need to go out and do

from things," he says. "You have to

life down a very different path than the

this. Nothing else matters.'"

learn to accept impermanence and imperfection. It's just about learning

one he had first imagined.

Needless to say, he quit his job and

how to flow with the world, I guess."

"I was living in Boulder, Colorado, a year

hasn't looked back since. Fortunately,

after graduating university, just working a

it turned out to be a great decision —

For him, Gravity Glue — the name he

regular, non-creative, kind of frustrating

taking a leap of faith and sticking to his

gives to his art practise and website — is

job," he says. "But, on the summer days I

passion removed everything else in his

about doing your own thing, not caring

had off, or after work, I'd go down to the

life, opening a void he could fill with

what people think, just listening to the

creek in town, and hang out."

pure creation.

natural state of things.

"There are rocks everywhere down

"A couple of months later, I was going

"In a sense, jumping off the deep end

there, but I had never ever thought of

with the flow, and made something

and quitting my job, and doing all this

balancing them before. I was hanging

that turned out really amazing. A

stuff that is total cultural taboo, is a very

out with a friend, we were looking for

friend messaged me, and said, 'You

clear example of being an outsider

some obsidian and just kind of moving

should send it to this blog,' which was

and taking a chance by following your

rocks around."

thisiscollosal.com," he says.

passion," he says.

Some hours later, he noticed the patterns

"So, I sent it to the guy and he emailed

"One part of it is just listening and

of rocks he had made around himself

me back in10 minutes and was like,

responding to nature — there's this

and became more interested in moving

'Alright, send me all your photos. I need

whole unpredictable chaos moment,

them around instead. "Something just

to publish this immediately'."

whether it's wind or something else."

Michael says. "That's a very beautiful

kind of flipped a switch in my brain, and I fell in love with it," Michael says.

The post went viral, exposed to over

part of the entire practise, it is this whole

100 different countries, his followers

dance with nature. That's also where all

Firstly, it was just in his spare time, cap-

list exploded, and he started doing

the inspiration comes from — going out

tured on photography and film, but it

private events, with notable attendees

there, into a beautiful place, and feeling

wasn't long before the habit eventually

like environmentalist and former Vice

inspired to build something."

became a full-time occupation.

President of the USA, Al Gore.

"I was absolutely obsessed!" Michael

So how does he manage to keep a

continues, "I still am, just in a much more

straight head and not let the fame

thorough way. I started doing events in

take over?

gravityglue.com

— 47 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

— 48 —

E C C O

C O O L

W A L K

CLIMATE - CONTROLLE D COMFORT Styled for the urban explorer, but featuring all the day-long walking essentials, ECCO COOL WALK is a practical city climber. Made from the highest quality yak leather and GORE-TEX® SURROUND®, you will stay dry and comfortable no matter where you are.

ECCO FLUIDFORM™ Technology and foot-fitted last provide shock-absorbent material, injected directly into the shoe mould, that cradles your foot and cushions your step.

Discover a premium walking experience, with every step.

E C C O C O O L WA L K , 8 3 3 2 0 4 0 1 0 0 1

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

TRIPLE THE TRACTION For many years, ECCO has been a pioneer in the golfing world, pushing ahead with ground-breaking shoe technology — particularly with hybrid styles. Recently, they unveiled the ECCO BIOM® HYBRID 3, with a revolutionary outsole with all-new TRI-FI-GRIP™. We unpack the details with Lead Designer Andrzej Bartie Bikowski and Head of Golf Michael Waack.

"We were the first brand with spikeless

"The E-DTS™, was our first hybrid traction

"We found this linear design that

shoes that you are actually able to play

system, and we are still doing it because

prevents you from sliding side to side,

professional golf in," says Michael. "All

it works well," Bartie says. "But for us, we

while also making them easier to clean,"

of the other brands were more or less

wanted to challenge ourselves, because

Bartie says. "As you zoom in on the

trainers, walkers for teaching profes-

it is quite generic — all of the traction

smallest scale, the cleats are engineered

sionals, standing on the driving range

cleats are the same."

golfer's-looking shoe on."

differently in the front and in the back — that is to prevent slippage."

eight or nine hours, and still having a "That's where the whole idea with TRI-FI-GRIP™ started," he says," with

He says they also built a 'stability zone'

"The E-DTS™ was the start of a revolution

us questioning: how can we improve

on the front lateral side, where the cleats

for us and everyone else," he says.

the grip even more, and bring some

are bigger and wider, preventing you

"Fred Couples wore the shoes the first

innovation, so that it can be even

from going too deep in the grass.

time in Hawaii, and he won. Then of

more performance-oriented."

"Another thing we looked at, is what we

course he wore them in the Champions Tour, and that was more or less the first

Bartie says they went back to study the

call the 'Swing Down phase'," Bartie says.

time some people recognised them,

movement of the foot, both in walking,

"It's when you are finishing off your swing,

because it was, more or less, the first time

and while swinging. "We found out that

you still want to stay stable, and hold

ever a professional golfer played with a

there are different functional needs that

the position. "We call this a rotational line

hybrid shoe."

we could address with different outsole

— helping you stay balanced during the

zones," he says.

last phase of your swing.”

in the shoes, and he finished sixth. And

"We noticed that the forefoot and

Finally, to allow for greater flexibility

he was 52 or 53 years old," Michael says.

heel part needed to be more durable

overall, Bartie says they also removed

"He was against all with these all young

when you walk, because of the higher

sections of the T.PU outsole, in the centre,

guns, 20 and 25 year olds, all these

abrasion. So, we placed wider cleats

allowing for better ground adaptation

athletes, you know? He played fantasti-

there, much wider and thicker, so you

when in motion.

cally, and he said on TV: 'The reason why

have more substance and thickness to it,

is these absolutely cool shoes.'"

to last longer," Bartie says.

Needless to say, since then, the shoes

Then he says they looked at the move-

system. With this technology we are

have sold out three years running, and

ment of the foot, and in which direction

pushing the boundaries of hybrid

the success of their paradigm shift left

they needed the grip to go to allow for

golf shoes — a category we want to

ECCO Golf hungry to do more.

traction, while also being able to clean

continue to be the leaders in."

"But it wasn't until April when he played

"The TRI-FI-GRIP™ is our most advanced and functional performance traction

the shoe better.

— 50 —

"We found out that there are different functional needs that we could address with different outsole zones."

ANDRZEJ BAR TIE BIKOWSKI, E C C O G O L F, L E A D D E S I G N E R ECCO BIOM HYBRID 3, 15580453357

— 51 —

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

1978

1980

1983

1984

1985

THE JOKE

THE FREE

THE SOFT BOOT

THE NEW PORT

THE MOBILE

1987

1988

1992

1994

1995

THE TWIST

THE CENTRAL LINE

THE TRACK

THE COSMO

T H E R AVA G E

1997

1999

2002

2003

2005

THE GOLF

THE SUBZONE

T H E WA L K AT H O N

THE SHARK

THE SUPER CROSS

2006

2007

2007/2008

2008

2009

THE JUMP

T H E 2 N D - N AT U R E

THE SPIRIT/LIFE

THE SUMMER-ZONE

THE BIOM A

2010

2011

2012

2018

2018

THE SCULPTURED

THE BALANCE

THE BIOM PURE

T H E C R E P E T R AY

THE ST.1

AUT UM N / WI N T E R 2 018

E C C O

C R E P E T R A Y ™

H Y B R I D

&

E C C O

C O R K S P H E R E ™

1

M O D E R N C L A S S I C S From rugged Chelsea boots to street-smart sneakers, ECCO pulls silhouettes from a global archive of shoemaking, adding our signature premium leathers, and cutting-edge developments in comfort engineering, to elevate and refine them according to our own unique design standards.

Some call them upgrades, others call them evolutions.

But we just call it natural motion.

— ECCO IN NATURAL MOTION SINCE 1963

E C C O C R E P E T R AY H Y B R I D , 2 0 0 8 4 3 0 1 0 0 1 ECCO CORKSPHERE 1, 27121401001

M0000008200

E C C O

S O F T

7

T R E D

RUGGED

SOFTNESS

ECCO SOFT 7 TRED / 45020401001