Mango Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Collection

Mango Menswear Spring/Summer 2021 Collection Emily Freund 18007210

MSc Strategic Fashion Management Product Management - Heather Delaney Word Count: 2,005

Table of Contents I. II.

III.

IV.

V. VI. VII. 1

Introduction. . . . . . . . . . ..............................2-3 Market Research. . . . ..............................4-7 SWOT Analysis Competitive Analysis Customer Profile Range Direction. . . . .............................8-12 Trend Analysis Color Analysis Fabric Analysis Product Concept & Direction Range Structure. . . . ...........................13-16 Core Fashion High Fashion Range Plan Analysis Sustainable Summary............................17 Bibliography. . . . . . . . . ...........................18-19 Appendix. . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..........................20-27

I. Introduction

Figure 1.1: Fashion Revolution Transparency Index Scores (Fashion Revolution, 2019)

Mango is a contemporary, Mediterranean styled brand that was founded in 1984 in Barcelona, Spain. It has since expanded its Womenswear to include Men’s, Kids, and Plus Size collections (Mango, n.d.). Mango currently has a “Committed” line which features pieces responsible with environmental sustainability, reducing the impact on the environment. This collection is part of their “Take Action” program which is directed to improve processes and the work environment. Mango’s goal is to have 50% of the cotton used to be from sustainable origins by 2022 (Mango, 2017). In addition, it is said that this collection was created in nearby countries of Spain, Turkey, and Morocco to reduce emissions, however during an instore competitive shop some of the pieces were made in Bangladesh and Pakistan (See Appendix 1.1). Despite all of these efforts, Mango’s overall transparency score is 18% with a traceability score of 0%, according to the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index (See Figure 1.1).

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The United Nation’s Sustainable Development Goals are meant to improve the wellbeing of people and the environment (See Figure 1.2). Specifically Goal 12 is set to ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns. Some of the targets include recycling materials, companies publishing sustainability reports, companies implementing sustainable production patterns and effectively reporting them, and sustainable management and efficient use of natural resources (Sustainable Development Goals, n.d.). Mango’s menswear Spring/Summer 2021 collection will include 100% transparency when disclosing factories, processing facilities, raw material suppliers, and factory workers in addition to being 100% sustainable. Sourcing of the environmentally low- impact fabrics, like recycled polyester and organic cotton will be from countries that have more sustainable processes than some of Mango’s current suppliers. To relate to Goal 12, a preorder (as well as a limited amount in stores) of these items will reduce mass production and mass consumption of these products. Air-dyeing technology allows these fabrics to be dyed with rich colors that last longer without polluting water in the process (Haque, 2016). No pesticide or chemical use makes a fiber process “eco-friendly” which is why the production process must be 100% sustainable in this range (Muthu, 2018).

Figure 1.2: UN’s 17 Sustainable Goals

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II. Market Research SWOT Analysis

Strengths - “Committed” collection line is their sustainable womenswear line - Have a balanced range of product mix between core, fashion, and higher fashion pieces - Cost is mid-range, affordable which appeals to young, working customers - Unique designs of clothing with a cohesive brand image of contemporary Mediterranean style throughout - Recycling clothing drop-box - A good balance between seasonal clothing, showing that they appeal to all shoppers, not just UK shoppers - Organization of the clothing through type of wear and color coordination makes it easier to shop certain items - Outlet in flagship store put all markdown items in one area to shop Weaknesses - No “Committed” menswear line - Very limited menswear and kids lines; 2 full floors of womenswear and 1 for combined mens and kids - Employees in the store aren’t addressing customers when they shop and asking if they need help - Window displays in the flagship store aren’t eye-catching and they only display one mannequin for men’s and one for women’s - Organization of the outlet clothing section is messy 4

Figure 2.1: Entrance display of Mango Oxford Street

Opportunities - More Menswear and kids wear clothing - Expanding “Committed” line to menswear, kids wear, and shoes - Increase marketing in store to promote the sustainable line - Updating the window displays to show more items and use as a marketing tool Threats - Competition from other retailers and their better in-store marketing tools - Competitors like Zara, The GAP and H&M have more men as shoppers than Mango does - Segmentation of their brand is known as a women’s brand while they have other ranges Figure 2.2: Display in Mango Oxford Street

Based on a comparative shop analysis of multiple Mango stores in London and the online website (See Appendix 1.1 and 1.2), the SWOT analysis shows the strengths and weaknesses of the current in-store product range, where they have opportunities for growth, and what threats Mango faces through the current collection. Based on observations, Mango’s product range is heavily focused on womenswear, as they started as a women’s fashion brand and that’s their main customer base. However, this also becomes a weakness when looking at the customer base of its main competitors like Zara and H&M who also have a larger womenswear line than men, yet still have more male customers (See Appendix 1.4). This weakness creates an opportunity to develop the menswear products and grow their “Committed” product line.

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Competitive Analysis Mango’s competitors include H&M, Gap, TopShop, & Other Stories, Pull&Bear, but its main competitor is Zara (See Figure 2.3). Zara is known to have trendy and fashion-forward garments that give customers a high-fashion feeling for a high-street price. Zara’s strengths include their reputation, their two-week product turnover, and their prices (See Appendix 1.3). Weaknesses include the sustainability of their two-week product turnover, designer-copied clothing items, and their lack of instore and omni-channel marketing. According to Edited Market Analytics (See Figure 2.4), Zara has had more sellouts and replenished items and less discounted items in the past month, compared to Mango’s data. This shows that the coronavirus pandemic affects Zara, in supply chain management, less than Mango, which is beneficial for Zara because they have a large enough customer base and strong supply chain that they can still sell items enough to be sold out and replenished again.

Figure 2.4: Market Strategies of Mango’s and its competitors (Edited, 2020b)

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Figure 2.3: Positioning Map (based on median prices shown in Figure 2.4)

Customer Profile Figure 2.5: Customer Profile

The “Mango Man” is around the age of 18- 25 years old, definitely younger than 30. He is either a student in university or is an educated young professional, working a white-collar job. He is any race, ethnicity, and sexual orientation. His income, whether working part-time because he’s a student or full-time, is on average around £2000 (Stotz, 2019). His family status is that he has prospects of having kids in the future but is not planning on starting a family until he makes enough money to support a family, with the help of his significant other.

He lives in the urban cosmopolitan areas of the United Kingdom where he lives in an apartment building or in a private student accommodation (CACI, 2014, p.

64). The area he lives in his highly populated, since it’s a city. In the spring and summer, the city gets slightly warm with a breeze, allowing flocks of people to hang out in parks and out on their terraces.

He values eco-friendly businesses but may not necessarily buy solely sustainable items. He is aware of how wasteful the fashion industry, so he doesn’t like to buy a lot of items at a time from the brands he shops at. While he’s not at school or work he likes to hang out with friends, go to coffee shops, eat out at young, happening restaurants, go to the gym, and travel to new places. In the summer, he likes to go to the beach, travel to places like Spain, Italy, or Amsterdam where he can relax and enjoy his time off from school or work. He will usually shop at places like Zara, Top Man, River Island, and H&M for trendy items and workwear attire. He has social media accounts, but only posts sometimes (CACI, 2014, p. 62).

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With this new Spring/Summer 2021 collection, he will be looking for benefits of being trendier, being more sustainable, while expanding the color palette in his closet. He has purchased from Mango before, but usually for workwear or outerwear items and not really for on-trend pieces. He will be able to wear these pieces in the spring and summer, but he will make use of them in autumn and winter by layering them with heavier materialized garments. He is a little bit weary to make purchases for spring/summer clothing because the Coronavirus pandemic has left him unsure for what the summer holds, however he wants to expand his closet into more fun items as he hopes for a virus-free summer.

III. Range Direction Figure 3.1: Mood Board

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(Keteniss, 2019, p. 11)

(Keteniss, 2019, p. 5)

The season calls for a hybrid of chic street style and formalwear. The juxtaposition of laid-back, casual items like sweatshirts and smart, tailored items like a blazer create outfits made for comfortability without lacking style. Beachwear brings a nostalgic feeling of summer memories, making items like lightweight sweaters and denim with unfinished hems very prominent in this season. Minimalist silhouettes are paired with liquid floral prints, bright colors, and abstract tie-dyes (Ketteniss, 2019b). These coastal vibes adapt to an upscale look with the use of suit jackets, trousers, and collared shirts.

(Keteniss, 2019, p. 10)

Trend Analysis

Color Analysis The Spring/Summer 2021 Menswear color trends show a mix of artificial, bright hues and muted, natural tones (Ketteniss, 2019a).

This mirrors the colors of the beach; the turquoise sea and the bright corals adjacent to the beige sand and the haze of the sunset. A customer survey (See Appendix 1.4) was conducted and a brighter color palette was the most sought after when asked what menswear was missing. The Mango Spring/ Summer 2021 collection is the perfect way to bridge the neutral tones seen in the current range with bright, ocean-inspired colors for a refreshing summer palette. In addition, transparent colors are used to mimic the light, airiness of the surface of the ocean.

According to WGSN, Europe’s color trends include an artificial aqua, a muted pink, a saturated mint green, and a warm orange red (See Figure 3.2). The color palette for this season will invoke feelings of warmth and happiness, tied to that great day at the beach.

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Figure 3.2: Men’s S/S 21 Europe Color Trends (Boddy, 2019)

Figure 3.3: Color Palette for Mango product range

(Casey, 2019)

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(Palmer and Skliarova, 2019)

The Spring/Summer 2021 season has many different kinds of textiles set to be on trend. Certain fabrics are more fit for garments based on the usage and the fashionability of that item. According to WGSN, lightweight performance fabrics will be used for outerwear, shirting, bottoms, and jackets (Palmer and Skliarova, 2019). Knitwear and jersey fabrics will be apparent in the season but with a brightly colored palette and ocean-inspired prints. Reflecting on the breeze of the summer, sheers and translucent fabrics are on trend for garments like shirting, outerwear, and bottoms. Lightweight and casual fabrics are key for this season because of the weather, but the patterns and coloring of such textiles pack a punch. To mellow out those fabrics, neutral tones inspired by the rusticity of fabrics like linen and hemp come into play this season, as well. Higher fashion items will have more experimental and trendy fabrics, while core items will have more mainstream fabrics like cotton denim.

(Barnes and Casey, 2019)

Fabric Analysis

Product Concept & Direction

The trends that the capsule collection will be focused on have a mix of tailored looks with loose, unfinished designs (See Figure 3.2). The target customer will find these pieces easy to style with each other as well as other items already in their closet. These garments can be worn throughout the other seasons, which is why the customer will love this collection. It also promotes Sustainable Development Goal 12 of responsible consumption by having items that work for multiple seasons, reducing the need to buy more clothing and using what they already own.

Based on the trend analysis, the garments will have basic silhouettes with a younger generational approach for the targeted customer of this collection.

The environment plays a huge role in finding textiles for ranges because the garment industry is the second most polluter in the world (Stacey Dooley Investigates: Fashion’s Dirty Secrets, 2018). The responsible production of each fabric will be considered when crafting this sustainable menswear range. Fabric selection for this range includes Tencel (Lyocell) which uses a closed-loop system with a low impact Higg score of 47 to (Higg MSI, n.d.) create soft, breathable, and comfortable fabric (Tencel, n.d.). Other fabrics used include organic cotton, bamboo jersey, and recycled polyester (See Figure 3.5) that have Higg index scores of 49, 57, and 35, respectively (Higg MSI, n.d.). The Higg material index scores for the chosen fabrics show the lower impact these fabrics have than non-organic and non-recycled materials.

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Figure 3.4: Key Garments & Details for Mango product range

Key Garments: - Suit Jacket & Trousers - Sweaters - T shirt - Hooded Sweatshirt - Denim Jeans - Collared Button-down Figure 3.5: Fabric Board

Key Details: - Tailored Finishing - Color block - Loose-fitted - Tie-Dye - Unfinished hems - Transparent textiles

IV. Range Structure Core Range

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Fashion Range

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High Fashion Range

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Range Plan Analysis

Figure 4.1: Mango Price Comparison (Edited, 2020a)

Mango’s contemporary Mediterranean designs are preserved through this menswear range with sustainability and transparency as the greatest priority (Berg et al, 2019). The range uses sustainable fabrics of organic and recycled origins that can be broken down into fibers for new garments. The collection has a minimal number of products that can be purchased either through a preorder or through the store but with limited quantities. This is to minimize mass production and consumption of clothing.

This S/S 21 capsule collection for Mango’s menswear includes a product mix of core, fashion, and high fashion pieces with different pricing strategies. The core range includes basic silhouettes like t-shirts, sweaters, sweatshirts, and denim jeans and jackets. What also makes these items “core” is the fabric selection; organic cotton, bamboo and rayon jersey and Tencel denim are pretty standard when sourcing sustainable textiles. This collection is meant to appeal to the older Generation Z and the younger Millennial, so the fashion and high fashion range have more trendy designs and silhouettes that are not necessarily for every shopper, like the denim shorts, transparent button-down shirt, or the two-toned suit. In addition, the textiles used in the fashion and high fashion ranges like silk organza, linen, and organic cotton twill are not as common as the core fabrics used.

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All of these factors also lead to different pricing strategies with the core as entry, fashion as mid, and high fashion as exit price points. Comparing similar items from Mango’s past collections and their price points (See Figure 4.1), considering the target customer’s income (CACI, 2014), and the sourcing of each fabric (See Figure 4.2), leads to the good-better-best pricing strategy to the core, fashion, and high fashion ranges, respectively.

Figure 4.2: Sourcing for Different Countries (Re:source, n.d.)

V. Sustainable Summary To summarize, Mango has had many efforts towards being sustainability and that relate to the Sustainable Development Goals. Not only do they train their staff on the UN’s 17 goals, they have a “Take Action” program which sets out to reduce carbon emissions, clothing waste, and considers eco-friendly fabrics (See Appendix 1.5). However, the retailer’s transparency is far from being considered “sustainable” which questions whether these efforts are just a product of green washing.

This menswear capsule collection will fix this issue by becoming a completely transparent and sustainable line, further developing the lackluster menswear product ranges. This range has the opportunity to collaborate with Fashion Revolution in their “Who Made my Clothes” campaign which shows every worker in the garment making process from the people who have grown the fibers to the people who package the clothing, and everything in between. In addition, Mango can achieve more textile certifications through this range like the Textile Exchange which allows suppliers, manufacturers, and retailers and brands to become more sustainable in textile sourcing and use (Textile Exchange, n.d.).

Sustainable Development Goal 12 calls for responsible consumption and production. With goal 12 in mind, this Spring/Summer 2021 collection produces a smaller number of garments, considers the ethical sourcing, growing, and manufacturing process of each material, and encourages consumers to educate themselves on these issues and to continue recycling clothing in the already implemented recycle drop box. The clothing items will be dyed using Air-drying technology that produces vibrant colors and durable fabrics that last longer, which further promotes responsible consumption and production.

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VI. Bibliography

Berg, A., Hedrich, S., Ibanez, P., Kappelmark, S. and Magnus, K. (2019) Fashion’S New Must-Have: Sustainable Sourcing At Scale. [online] McKinsey & Company. Available at: https:// www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashions-new-must-have-sustainable-sourcing-at-scale (Accessed 1 June 2020) CACI (2014) The Acorn User Guide: Consumer Classification. [online] London, pp.60-64. Available at: https://acorn.caci.co.uk/downloads/Acorn-User-guide.pdf (Accessed 9 May 2020) Edited (2020a) Market Analytics. Available at: https://app.edited.com/#market/dashboard/412663/401278?analysis_view=architecture&currency=default&gender=men&list_ style=image&market=UK&order_by=found_desc&price_type=current&primary_pivot=retailer&product_searches=221%7C535%7C553&retailers=mango&scale_type=linear&secondary_pivot=productsearch&vertical=apparel&view=analysis (Accessed 14 May 2020) Edited (2020b) Market Analytics. Available at: https://app.edited.com/#market/dashboard/414244/403759?analysis_view=strategy&brands=gap%7Ch-m%7Cmango%7Cother-stories%7Cpull-bear%7Ctopshop%7Czara&dropped_ date_range=month&gender=men%2Cwomen&market=UK&price_type=current&primary_pivot=market&secondary_pivot=brand&vertical=apparel&view=analysis (Accessed 17 May 2020) Fashion Revolution (2019) Fashion Transparency Index . [online] Available at: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fashion_transparency_index_2019?e=25766662/69342298 (Accessed 17 May 2020) Haque, M. (2016) Air Dyeing Technology. [online] LinkedIn. Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/today/author/mynoul-haque-45204229 (Accessed 10 March 2020) Higg MSI (n.d.) Materials Sustainability Index. Available at: https://msi.higg.org/page/msi-home (Accessed 1 June 2020) Ketteniss, V. (2019a) Men’s Colour Trend Concepts S/S 21. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/83386/page/1 (Accessed 10 March 2020) Ketteniss, V. (2019b) Men’s Style Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84345/page/1 (Accessed 27 March 2020) Mango (2017) Mango Continues its Commitment to Sustainability and Launches the Second Mango Committed Commission [Press release]. 13 October. Available at: https:// press.mango.com/en/mango-continues-its-commitment-to-sustainability-and-launches-the-second-mango-committed-commission_26394 (Accessed: 17 May 2020) Mango (n.d.) [online] Available at: https://shop.mango.com/iframe.faces?state=she_400_US&ts=1589705449538 (Accessed 17 May 2020) Muthu, S.S. (2018) Sustainable innovations in textile fibres. Singapore: Springer (p. 11-12) (Accessed: March 16, 2020) Re:source (n.d.) Sourcing Criteria. [online] Available at: https://resource.just-style.com/country/sourcingcriteria (Accessed 14 May 2020) Stacey Dooley Investigates: Fashion’s Dirty Secrets (2018) [film] Directed by E. Onono. BBC Stotz, J. (2019) Average and Minimum Salary In London, United Kingdom. [online] Check in Price. Available at: https://checkinprice.com/average-minimum-salary-in-london-uk/ (Accessed 9 May 2020) Sustainable Development Goals (n.d.) Sustainable Development Goal 12. [online] Available at: https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/sdg12 (Accessed 17 May 2020)

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Tencel (n.d.) Sustainability. [online] Available at: https://www.tencel.com/sustainability (Accessed 12 May 2020) Textile Exchange (n.d.) [online] Available at: https://www.textileexchange.org (Accessed 19 May 2020)

Images Figure 2.5 The Fashionisto (2020) Federico Rocks Blue Denim for GAS Spring ’20 Campaign. [online] Available at: https://www.thefashionisto.com/gas-jeans-spring-2020-campaign/ (Accessed 9 May 2020) Jayes, E. and Boulos, D. (2019) Exploring Intentionality with Tamino. [online] Milk. Available at: https://milk.xyz/feature/exploring-intentionality-with-tamino-amir/ (Accessed 9 May 2020) MANGO (n.d.) Slim Fit Linen Trousers - Men | Mango Man United Kingdom. [online] Available at: https://shop.mango.com/gb/men/trousers-casual/slim-fit-linen-trousers_67017878.html?c=91 (Accessed 9 May 2020) Meyer, C. (2018) Clarisse Meyer (@Clarissemeyer) | Unsplash Photo Community. [online] Unsplash.com. Available at: https://unsplash.com/@clarissemeyer (Accessed 9 May 2020) Shop.mango.com. (2020) Improved for Men 2020 | United Kingdom. [online] Available at: https://shop.mango.com/gb/men/edits/improved#NaN (Accessed 9 May 2020) Figure 3.1 Barnes, O. and Casey, C. (2019) Men’s Knit & Jersey Style Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84085/page/8 (Accessed 1 March 2020) Ketteniss, V. (2019b) Men’s Style Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84345/page/1 (Accessed 29 February 2020) Ross, A. (2019) Women’s Style Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84319/page/9 (Accessed 22 February 2020) Figure 3.2 Boddy, J. (2019) Europe Colour Trend Concepts S/S 21. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/83688/page/7 (Accessed 10 March 2020) Figure 3.3 Dickinson, C. (2019) Visual Merchandising Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84758/page/14 (Accessed 22 February 2020) Pinterest. (n.d.a) Iris Van Herpen Fall 2018 Couture Fashion. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/748090188087913543/ (Accessed 22 February 2020) Pinterest. (n.d.b) Live Wallpaper IPhone Wallpapers. [online] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/645211084098824776/ (Accessed 22 February 2020) Ross, A. (2019) Women’s Style Trend Concepts S/S 21: Transform. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/84319/page/12 (Accessed 22 February 2020) Shulman, J. (1930) The Wizard of Oz. [image] Available at: https://www.jasonshulmanstudio.com/photographsoffilms/the-wizard-of-oz-1930 (Accessed 22 February 2020)

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Shulman, J. (1978) Caligula. [image] Available at: https://www.jasonshulmanstudio.com/photographsoffilms/est-odio-ut-qui (Accessed 22 February 2020)

VII. Appendix 1.1 Comparative Shop - MANGO (UK) Comparative Shop

Store Details

The Customer (Mango Covent Garden) The customers are mainly 30/40yo women, little to no men, with the occasional college student dropping in to look around. Customers are mainly attracted to the accessories, very little interest in the actual collection.

Sunglasses, bags and jewellery are particularly popular. The more basic pieces attract some attention, but not enough for anyone to actually try anything on.

Mango 235 Oxford St, Soho, London Thursday, February 27 12:00-12:30 PM Cloudy, windy Near other high street brands, close to Oxford Circus station

Merchandise Display (Mango Covent Garden) Product is mainly displayed hanging from walls, coordinated by outfit or by collection. The different areas have a distinct overall look. Product gets more basic / less high fashion the more you move back into the store.

Exterior & Windows

Window displays: two small window sections showing one male mannequin and one female mannequin Entrance: huge open entrance with a display of mannequins posing on podium displays in the front of the store

The colourful, high fashion, very trend-based product is in the Platinum zone, right when you enter. The more you move back the more basic and neutral the products become. Sale is located all the way in the back. The sustainable collection is placed somewhere in the middle, but still, strangely enough, slightly hidden away. Focal points are on mannequins, which are placed in the center of categories. There’s very little use of props and decorations.

Exterior and Windows aren’t really dressed, engaging, or eye-catching compared to Mango’s neighbours; Bershka, Gap, Topshop, H&M There is only one entrance and exit which is open and staffed by a security guard located on the busy Oxford Street, however the store doesn’t generate much interest because there is minimal displays in the windows that aren’t attention grabbing Interior & Layout

Ground Floor: women’s, accessories, committed line, “second chances” recycling box First Floor: women’s (workwear, outerwear, denim), shoes, handbags, 3D printed jewellery, fitting rooms, committed line Second Floor: men’s, kids, online collections, returns/exchanges, mango outlet, fitting rooms Music: pop music, alternate pop Lighting: spotlighting Scent: no Atmosphere: not busy/crowded, organized and neat displays of clothing, fun and stress-free shopping experience Customers: don’t have many items in their hands when shopping, they pick things up and put them back down, not many male shoppers, not many customers on first and second floor but more on the ground floor Marketing

The Product Range

(Mango Covent Garden) Staff wears uniforms, mainly consisting of black clothing without labels. The store seems overstaffed.

Tops / jumpers / jackets / coats size range: XS, S, M, L, XL Trousers / skirts / size range: 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 The same size ranges are available both instore and online.

Branding on labels, tickets and carrier bags is very minimal and mainly consists of the brand logo, which is in a minimalist sans serif font on a plain, neutral background. Branding in-store is very minimal, signs and graphics are very limited. The only signage in the store is the occasional price sign. Sales are visibly marked with red labels, and mainly placed in the back of the store. There is no ecommerce. The promotion and marketing is in line with Mango’s minimal branding and aesthetic.

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1

The ranges were generally displayed cohesively and the pieces in the same areas made ‘sense’ together. The store layout guided the customer around the different ranges.

Mango’s chosen pricing strategy included many prices ending in 0.99.

The staff were generally passive and did not approach customers to offer help. If asked by a customer for assistance, they would help, but otherwise did not initiate customer engagement.

The neutral tones and smart style seemed appropriate for the customers shopping in the store.

Woven Tops

281

Core: 268 Fashion: 13 High Fashion

China Vietnam Bangladesh

£17.99

£35.99

£69.99

Jersey Tops

212

Core: 212 Fashion High Fashion

Egypt Portugal Myanmar

£6.99

£17.32

£39.99

Knitted Tops

175

Core: 173 Fashion: 2 High Fashion

Morocco Turkey

£17.99

£29.99

£139.99

Bottoms

301

Core: 173 Fashion: 2 High Fashion

China Myanmar Vietnam

£9.99

£35.99

£229.99

Skirts

66

Core: 62 Fashion: 4 High Fashion

Turkey Pakistan

£19.99

£35.99

£369.99

Dresses

315

Core: 301 Fashion: 14 High Fashion

Vietnam Morocco

£17.99

£39.99

£169.99

All in Ones

35

Core: 32 Fashion: 3 High Fashion

Vietnam Turkey

£29.99

£59.99

£119.99

Shoes

145

Core: 132 Fashion: 13 High Fashion

India Spain

£19.99

£49.99

£259.99

Bags

187

Core: 176 Fashion: 11 High Fashion

China

£12.99

£29.99

£119.99

The website displays a much broader selection of stock, featuring some products of a brighter colour which were not evident instore.

Best Sellers

Worst Sellers

Printed midi skirt, £29.99

Leather heel loafers, £35.99 (originally £69.99)

Combined knitted cardigan, £15.99 (originally £19.99)

Mom-fit jeans, £35.99

Trekking sole shoe, £35.99 (originally £59.99)

Leather biker jacket, £139.99

Essential structured blazer, £39.99

Classic cotton trench coat, £69.99

Product category

Jackets

Coats

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Total Number of Options by Category

102

48

Fashionability Options (core/fashion/high fashion)

Country of Origin

Core: 80 Fashion: 22 High Fashion

Morocco Vietnam

Core: 36 Fashion: 12 High Fashion

Italy Vietnam

Price Points Entry

Mid

Exit

£29.99

£59.99

£199.99

Display Units / Options Tops : Bottom display ratio No. of units displayed per option Total Tops / Total Bottoms = Tops-to-bottom ratio Core: Total Core / Total Options = 1753/11 = 159.4 668 / 301 = 2.2 Fashion: Total Fashion / Total Options = 114 / 11 = 10.4 2.2:1 (for every 2.2 tops there is 1 bottom).

High Fashion: Total High Fashion / Total Options = 0/11 = 0 Website & Online Presence - UK

£49.99

£74.99

£339.99

1.2 Comparative Shop - MANGO (USA Online) Comparative Shop Website Details Mango USA https://shop.mango.com/gb Wednesday, April 29th, 5:30 PM - Link to Mango USA is the first option to come up on Google with the “Ad” sign next to it - Links to ‘Women’, ‘Clothing’, ‘Dresses’, and ‘New Now’ are displayed in the search engine - Popular products are featured on the search engine with links to Mango’s social media accounts Home Page -

Shows a slideshow with a Mother’s Day discount, women’s loungewear, men’s basics, kids SS 20 campaign Offers a quick shop of the newest garments for women, men, boy, and girl Can shop the hashtag #MANGOGirls Subscription and discount of 10% off pop up page and available at the footer of the page Links to Mango social media Header of the page shows tabs ‘New’, ‘Women’, ‘Men’, ‘Girls’, ‘Boys’, ‘Plus Size’, ‘Edits’ and options for a search bar, to sign in, wish list, and shopping bag Announcement of the measures they’re taking in relation to the coronavirus pandemic

Department Pages Men The product is first separated by different customer (Men, women, Girls, boys), and in each tabs it is divided by garment

Discount of 50% for their ‘Spring Palette’ Shows ‘New Now’ Appeals to the male target customer by having a mix of casual and tailored looks Very easy to search for items in the Men’s department More studio model shots and less editorial shots of the items on the landing page

Women - Discount of 30% for Mother’s Day - Shows ‘New Now’ - Appeals to the female target customer by having fashionable and trendy looks - Very easy to search for items in the Women’s department - More studio model shots and less editorial shots of the items on the landing page Marketing

And all products are display on model in picture.

Pricing is subtle The feature of product is different from the physical store, online exclusive product are existed.

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The site has a page explaining what the Mango app does and that it’s available for Apple Watch and on Apple TV Mango App: shop on the go, barcode scanner to find sizes online if you can’t find them in-store, can find nearby stores, notifies about current sales, promotions, and exclusive offers Mango has an outlet page where you can shop last season’s styles at a discounted price Current advertisements are for Mother’s Day and the new S/S 20 collections Information about how Mango is adapting their services in relation to the coronavirus pandemic

Merchandise Display -

All the categories are clear enough for searching.

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Every product in every department is featured which is different to the stores in London where the men’s department is very minimal compared to the women’s department Product is initially displayed on models and once clicked on the product there’s an option to view on a flat surface Pricing is displayed in bold and same font size as the description of the item Product descriptions and details on washing instructions are available Size guide available Similar pieces to the product you’re currently viewing are available to shop Options to complete the outfit with what the model is wearing in the photos plus other options to wear the item with There’s no chat box or customer service option when shopping

1

22

1.3 Comparative Shop - ZARA (USA Online Website, UK EDITED) Zara Comparative Shop Marketing

Website Details

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Zara USA https://www.zara.com/us/ Thursday, May 7th, 9:20AM - Link to Zara USA is the first link to come up on a Google search - Links to “Woman”, “Kids”, “Man”, “Special Prices”, “New In”, “Dresses” are displayed under the Zara search heading - Social media profiles are linked in the search with background information on the company

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Merchandise Display -

Home Page -

There is a whole page of showing how Zara is becoming more sustainable and transparent Discounted items are called “Special Prices” instead of sale or outlet Current advertisements are for their spring summer collection for men, women, and kids and how they are adapting to the global coronavirus pandemic no application but they link their social media sites at the footer of the home page

Home page shows a slideshow of the new spring/summer collection for Men, Women, and Kids in an interactive scroll Men collection is shown first with clothing, then shoes and bags, then “Stories” of the collection, then “Join Life” to learn about the clothing production and sustainability Women collection is the second slide showing the new collection and a video of a woman wearing the clothing, then shoes and bags, then “Stories” of the collection, then “Join Life” Kids Collection is the third slide showing “new in girls”, a collaboration with Bo & Sara Blomqvist, the collection, shoes and bags, then “Stories”, and then “Join Life” An update on Zara’s actions being taken during the coronavirus pandemic A newsletter sign up at the bottom of each scroll section I found it hard to navigate the scroll because it kept on navigating to different pages when soft scrolling down, although there was a down arrow, there was no up arrow to navigate to the slide you just saw The site made my computer overheat Side bar shows department pages Offers accessibility navigation at the footer and a help section at the header

Every product of the collection is shown in an editorial shot Product pages can be shopped through outfit building, if you click on an item you can immediately buy the items worn in the product photos on the model and even click on the individual items Product is displayed on models and when you select the item to add to your cart, they’re displayed in flats Product description available and once clicked on the individual items the composition and care instructions are available as well as a size guide based on your personal height, weight, and fit preference Shows options to wear the item with and similar products Pricing is a subheading to the name of the product which is in bold Customer service chat available

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The Product Range Women’s Shirts: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Men’s Shirts: S, M, L, XL Women’s Jeans/shorts: 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32 Men’s Jeans: 30, 31, 32, 34, 36 Women’s Pants/skirts: XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL Men’s Pants/shorts: XS, S, M, L, XL All pricing ends in .90 cents Best Sellers (Based on Zara USA’s current “Best Sellers” page, in USD) WOMEN: - White colored items - Summer dresses - Blouses - Straight Leg, Mom fit, loose fitting jeans - Sandals

Worst Sellers (Based on EDITED currently discounted items, in GBP) WOMEN: - Mostly accessories- shoes and bags

Department Pages Men -

No general landing page, you have to click on a section of “New In”, “Campaign”, “Collection”, or “Stories” New In page shows editorial photos of the spring/summer collection mixed with some flat/cut-out shots of the items, some still life shots of shoes and bags Some videos of the items on models in movement Can shop all of their collections in one scroll under “New In” Very easy to search for specific items with a search bar in the header of every page

Women - No general landing page, you have to click on a section of “New In”, “Campaign”, “Collection”, or “Stories” - New In page shows editorial photos of the spring/summer collection mixed with flat/cut-out shots of the items - Can shop all of their collections in one scroll under “New In” -

Very easy to search for specific items with a search bar in the header of every page No favorites or wishlist

(£15.99, originally £29.99)

(£25.99, originally £39.99) ($89.90) MEN: -

($39.90)

($49.90)

MEN:

Skinny Jeans (mainly white colored) Printed shirts Sneakers Basic Tshirts and sweatshirts (£49.99, originally £59.99)

1

23

(£19.99, originally £39.99)

(£12.99, originally £19.99)

W: 4

W: 4 (Core)

“”

W: £19.99

W: £39.99

W: £49.99

M: 53 W: 86

M: 46 (Core) 4 (Fashion) 4 (High Fashion) W: 82 (Core) 1 (Fashion) 3 (High Fashion)

“”

M: £17.99 W: £12.99

M: £37.99 W: £28.99

M: £134.00 W: £124.50

All in Ones

(£29.99, originally £49.99)

($39.90) Product category

Jackets

Coats

Total Number of Options by Category

M: 251 W: 237

M: 92 W: 101

($49.90) Fashionability Options (core/fashion/high fashion) M: 185 (Core) 56 (Fashion) 10 (High Fashion) W: 193 (Core) 42 (Fashion) 2 (High Fashion) M: 41 (Core) 48 (Fashion) 3 (High Fashion) W: 56 (Core) 35 (Fashion) 10 (High Fashion) M: 9 (Core) 3 (Fashion) W: 1 (Fashion)

Country of Origin (Check Care label)

Price Points

Entry (Lowest)

Mid (Mid Point)

Exit (Highest)

M/W: £15.99

M/W: £49.99

M: £179.00 W: £239.00

“”

M/W: £15.99

M: £69.99 W: £59.99

M: £179.00 W: £399.00

“”

M: £19.99 W: £49.99

M: £25.99 W: £49.99

M: £89.99 W: £49.99

“”

M: £21.66 W: £12.99

M: £25.32 W: £16.59

M: £33.66 W: £31.99

N/A Online

Woven Tops

M: 12 W: 1

Jersey Tops

M: 107 W: 60

M: 14 W: 23

M: 12 (Core) 2 (Fashion) W: 23 (Core)

“”

Knitted Tops

M: £19.99 W: £12.99

M: £27.99 W: £25.99

M: £89.99 W: £49.99

M: 74 W: 70

M: 74 (Core) W: 62 (Core) 8 (Fashion)

“”

Bottoms

M: £18.39 W: £12.99

M: £30.79 W: £25.29

M: £53.19 W: £69.99

Swimwear

W: 5

W: 5 (Core)

“”

W: £12.99

W: £14.79

W: £15.99

Skirts

W: 13

W: 10 (Core) 3 (Fashion)

“”

W: £25.99

W: £29.99

W: £89.99

W:54

W: 41 (Core) 11 (Fashion) 2 (High Fashion)

“”

W: £12.99

W: £39.99

W: £119.00

Dresses

24

($49.90)

Other (Footwear & Accessories)

M: 93 (Core) 14 (Fashion) W: 59 (Core) 1 (Fashion)

May 7, 2020 Data from: https://app.edited.com/#market/dashboard/413851/401533?analysis_view=strategy&brands=zara&dropped_da te_range=month&gender=men%2Cwomen&market=UK&price_type=current&primary_pivot=default&secondar y_pivot=gender&vertical=apparel&view=analysis

1.4 Customer Survey - 62 Respondents https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/DZ8PKSW What is your gender?

Female - 80.65% (50) Male - 19.35% (12) What is your age?

Under 18 - 3.23% (2) 18-24 - 90.32% (56) 25-34 - 4.84% (3) 35-44 - 1.61% (1) What is you shopping preference?

Online - 17.74% (11) In-Store - 43.55% (27) Both - 38.71% (24) How often do you shop at Mango?

Once a week - 1.61% (1) A few times a month - 1.61% (1) Once or a few times a year - 35.48% (22) I don’t shop at Mango - 61.29% (38) If you shop at Mango, what do you usually buy?

(Select all that apply)

25

Basics/Loungewear - 19.35% (12) Workwear - 11.29% (7) Occasion wear - 8.06% (5) Outerwear - 11.29% (7) Accessories - 9.68% (6) Denim - 6.45% (4) I don’t shop at Mango - 59.68% (37)

If you shop menswear, what do you think most ranges are missing? (ex: graphics, more colors, etc.)

Responses included (in order of most answered to least) more colors, graphics, more options, more trends, balance between streetwear and chic casual menswear, more colors, more fun, groovy patterns - stuff for teens/early 20s What other stores do you shop at? (Select all that apply) H&M - 54.84% (34) Zara - 72.58% (45) The Gap - 14.52% (9) Bershka - 24.19% (15) Pull & Bear - 9.68% (6) & Other Stories - 41.94% (26) Other - 27.42% (17) “Other” responses included Topshop, Monki, vintage shops, Uniqlo, Urban Outfitters, Nike, Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Madewell, Arket, Cos, Anthropologie How much do you know about Mango’s current sustainability approach?

(Select all that apply) ‘Committed’ product range - 14.52% (9) 3D printed jewelry range - 6.45% (4) ‘Take Action’ program - 11.29% (7) ‘Second Chances’ recycled clothing drop box - 14.52% (9) I was unaware of any of these initiatives - 77.42% (48) How important is sustainability to you when purchasing from stores/ brands? (10 being the most important factor) Average response was 6 after all respondents answered on a scale from 1-10 Are you more likely to invest in items that are made sustainably?

Yes - 80.65% (50) No - 19.35% (12)

1.5 Mango’s Current Sustainability Approach BSc (Hons) Fashion Management/MSc Strategic Fashion Management: Year 1 Student Name: Emily Freund Retailer: Mango What is the current sustainability approach & practices of your retailer?

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3D printed jewelry made from sustainable materials such as biodegradable plant-based plastics, woods, and ceramics Committed line: a womenswear line featuring pieces responsible with environmental sustainability, reducing the impact on our environment – produced in nearby countries (reduce emissions) “Take Action” program with sustainable actions directed to improve processes & work environment – goal: 50% cotton used in collections sustainable origin by 2022 Better Cotton Initiatives = organic cotton, recycled cotton 25% reduction of water consumption in denim production

How does your retailer score on the Fashion Revolution Transparency Index?

Overall: 18% 1. Policy & Commitments 58% 2. Governance 25% 3. Traceability 0% 4. Know, Show & Fix 9% 5. Spotlight Issues 21% What do the rankings tell you about the retailer’s approach to sustainability?

Mango definitely has room for improvement in their transparency of disclosing their factories, processing facilities, and raw material suppliers Do you agree with the rankings? Why? Yes, I found it hard to discover details about Mango’s sustainable practices within the brand relating to their supply chain of sourcing, production, manufacturing, and distribution.

List the most common fabric/material scores/country of origin by product category of your retailer.

Product Category Most Common HIGG Score (%) Made-By Score (A – Country of Origin Material/Fabric E, unclassified) Outerwear (coats Polyester 44 D & jackets)

26

Tops

Cotton

98 (organic: 49)

E (organic: B)

Cambodia

Dresses

Viscose Acrylic

62 52

E E

Mongolia

Jeans

Cotton

98

E

Pakistan

Bralettes

Elastane

44

E

Does you retailer have any of the following sustainability certifications? Add date joined if known BCI – Better Cotton Initiative 2018 Bluesign Cradle to Cradle Fair Trade GOTS – Global Organic Textile Standard 2018 Global Recycle Standard 2018 Good Weave Made By OE-100 Oeko-Tex SAAS – Social Accountability Accreditation Services SCS Certification USDA Certified Organic Zque – Merino Fibre WFTO – World Fair Trade Organization Fair Wear Foundation Two Organic Standard Certifications ETI – Ethical Trading Initiative B Corporation – Certified B Sourcemap Cotton Made in Africa Responsible Down Standard Responsible Wool Standard PETA – People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals 2018 Fashion Revolution Sustainable Apparel Coalition 2020 HIGG Index Ecolabel Index Outdoor Industry Association ACT – Action, Collaboration, Transformation Textile Exchange SEDEX – empowering responsible supply chain 2018 Amfori – sustainable trade 2017 Fashion Pact 2019 How does the retailer’s current sustainability approach relate to Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible consumption and production, ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns?

- Mango offers customers to donate clothing and shoes to be recycled - Signed up for the organic content standard, recycled contents standard, and the better cotton initiative - Training of the sustainable development goals Using the ‘Apparel Entrepreneurships’ 9 Steps to a Sustainable Brand as a guide; how do you intend to develop this approach to deliver SDG12 through your innovative product range plan proposal?

- Honesty about where their recycled clothing goes and what happens to them - Transparency about the sourcing of materials, production process, and the Mindset and factory operations Awareness - Awareness of more sustainable practices - Committing to achieving some sustainable development goals

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Innovative Idea and Customer Need

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Design and Collection

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Sustainable Materials

Ethical Manufacturing

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Logistics

Educating consumers on sustainability and what this product range is doing for it USP: dry-dyed clothing made out of durable fabrics Small range of clothing, bought through preorders to minimize mass production and mass consumption of the clothing There’s a need for this product range to raise awareness of the harmful production and consumption habits the fashion industry Designs will be in line with the contemporary Mediterranean designs Mango already does but with a completely sustainable process Designs are made out of organic and recycled fabrics that can be broken down to new fibers for new clothes to be made into Have a younger generational approach Color palette includes greens, blues, and natural colors Recycled Cotton: Evrnu’s approach to recycling cotton from cotton tshirts – NuCycl Air-Dyeing technology Recycled/organic cotton, recycled nylon, recycled polyester, viscose, rayon Evrnu is a manufacturer of recycled materials with durability Sourcing through ethical and sustainable factories with workers who are paid fairly and have basic worker’s rights This line will have a smaller amount of items than Mango’s usual ranges and pre-orders will take place to know how much of the range will initially be made

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Clothing can be recycled through the already implemented recycling drop box and any clothing that can’t be donated will be stripped to recyclable materials and given to manufacturers to reuse - Textile Exchange inspires and allows manufacturers, retailers and brands, suppliers, and farmers to become more sustainable in textile sourcing and use Certifications - Collaboration with Fashion Revolution to create a more transparent supply chain - The collaboration with Fashion Revolution will educate consumers on who is making their clothing and where the suppliers are from Education - Educating consumers on the entire recycling process of the clothing they donate How does your innovative product range deliver SDG12 whilst supporting the business in: - Having preorders reduces mass production and a limited amount of in-store merchandise reduces mass consumption - Sustainably sourced raw materials and production processes promote responsible production Product Care and After Life

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Developing the menswear sustainable line which isn’t the focus of the brand in the current product range

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Customer’s will be engaged by learning about how to be more circular and responsible in their purchasing habits through purchasing less, purchasing more sustainable, and recycling old clothing

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Penetrating the market through product development of the menswear sustainable clothing range that isn’t included in their Committed line

Driving Growth

Customer Engagement

Market Share

27