Elitism Florence ::. issue 12

explore, live and enjoy the best of the city

issue n° 12 March ∙ April ∙ May 2020

www.readelitism.com

YOUR PERSONAL COPY

there's beauty all around you...

PALAZZO BARTOLINI SALIMBENI Via Tornabuoni (Piazza Santa Trinita, 1) FIRENZE

COLLEZIONE ROBERTO CASAMONTI

Joan Mirรณ, Femme, 1977-78, olio su tavola, 71x61cm

FROM THE 1960s TO THE DAWN OF THE 21st CENTURY

Jean-Michel Basquiat, Untitled, 1984, acrilico, pastelli a olio e serigrafia su tela, 223,5 x 198 cm

www.collezionerobertocasamonti.com prenotazioni@collezionerobertocasamonti.com tel. +39 055 602030

Apart from conferences to celebrate the Dome’s birthday, lots of unmissable concerts and unforgettable exhibitions are on. A fascinating closer look at an artist who loved Florence: Folon. And a must-see movie, Jo Jo and the Rabbit – why not munch on popcorn in of the many cinemas to choose from in our It’s Showtime section? Feel like cooking a fast Tuscan dish? We’ve got just the recipe for you on page 46. But most importantly of all, we’ve got a tip for you: hop on your bike, stick Elitism mag under your arm, pedal like mad and don’t go home until you’ve got at least 3 fantastic memories in your head. Then come back to us for some more ideas...

Elitism Florence: the quarterly magazine focused on discovering and experiencing the city and its magnificence. What to see, where to eat, trendy bars, historical places, architecture, shops, clubs with complete address lists and all the advice you need to enjoy the city the way Florentines do. And more, interviews with locals, details on the surroundings, highlights on what to buy, fun facts, and all of the top events you don’t want to miss out on in town.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails” - Mark Twain –

In partnership with: Windows On Italy Doorways to Italy Apartments Florence Family Apartments Madeinitaly Holiday Home Dot Florence bb Charme Suite Florence FLOspirit Holiday

Itaco Florence Concierge What about a house in Florence?

Florence Luxury Rent Incredible Tuscany haloria.com Acacia Firenze www.torremannellisuites.it

VICE - EDITOR Francesca Cellini DESIGN + COVER Sally Studio CONTRIBUTORS Cinzia Azzerboni, Cristina Tedde, Serena Becagli, Marta Matteini, Liliana Antoniucci PHOTO CREDITS Giulia Vezzosi TRANSLATIONS NTL traduzioni PRINTING IGV s.r.l. - Piazza Nasoni, 4 San Giovanni Valdarno (AR) PUBLISHER F Society SAS Via del Leone 37, Firenze p.iva 06722440481 Aut.Trib.

Firenze N. 6048 del 14 Aprile 2017 WRITE US AT General : info@readelitism.com Advertising : adv@readelitism.com ONLINE CONTENT www.readelitism.com You can follow us on:

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www.mafreshou.com

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Nazanin Rastan aka Mafreshou is a persian illustrator ,Print maker and virtual reality artist based in Italy. She studied Graphic of arts in the accademy of fine arts of Florence.She enjoys ethching, engraving and printmaking as much as digital drawing and making 360° illustrations in VR.

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#elitismflorence

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MAFRESHOU

EDITOR Francesca Querci

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The cover is illustrated by

ELITISM FLORENCE There’s beauty all around you Issue n° 12 March | April | May 2020 Quarterly ~ Florence ~ Italy

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In issue no. 12 of Elitism Florence, we want to celebrate the coming of spring and... our Cathedral Dome, Brunelleschi’s masterpiece, which will be 600 years old this year.

Food for thought, quirky stories, info and details. We want to tell you everything about Florence, in every issue that comes out, because Florence is constantly changing (or maybe you haven’t noticed?).

We’ll give you the lowdown on the top places for food and drink in the columns Where to Eat e Where to Drink. And we’ll tell you all you need to know about the stupendous Medici villas and a magical place, the town of Pienza.

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Welcome

Le informazioni diffuse hanno finalità divulgative, le fonti utilizzate riflettono le esperienze e le opinioni degli Autori. I link citati e le immagini tratte da altri siti sono proprietà dei rispettivi Soggetti. L’Editore, che ha posto ogni cura nel citare correttamente la fonte, si dichiara disponibile a pubblicare eventuali rettifiche per involontarie citazioni improprie. L’Editore e gli Autori di Elitism declinano ogni responsabilità per uso improprio delle informazioni riportate o da errori relativi al loro contenuto.

10 TO DO

Five amazing things to do in Florence we selected and guarantee for you

11 TO SEE

First things you have to see once you arrive

18 TEN MINUTES WITH Mr. Roberto Ugolini

20 WHERE TO EAT

The staff of Elitism presents you the top 3 restaurants of the month selected after a fine and accurate test

21 WHERE TO DRINK

con tents March April May 2020

Best wines and drinks around town.. raise your glass with style

24 SUGGESTED BY 28 NO YOU CAN’T MISS IT

Mr. Jacopo Lotti

Places you will never forget

32 OUR SELECTION

Our selection of beautiful products

34 ARTE Folon

con tents March April May 2020

42 AGENDA

From events and festivals to attractions and tours, find out what’s going on in Florence

Via Tornabuoni

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You cannot miss the recently renewed Mercato Centrale, a real gastronomic melting pot, for those who want to taste emotions. The Loggia del Porcellino where you can buy genuine leather products and caress the famous luck charm bronze boar muzzle at the side of the market.

Arno River

Enjoy the Diladdarno discovering San Frediano, snooping around workshops, antiques and art galleries. Piazza Santo Spirito is the right place for a typical dinner or a late evening drink. Piazza del Carmine with its mixed between sacred and profane atmosphere is another must-see.

· The Rive Gauche

To do

· Not just Art

Go for some top-level shopping in Via Tornabuoni: Gucci, Emilio Pucci, Tiffany, and many more are there waiting to fuel your vanity. Discover vintage jewels in Piazza Strozzi at Barducci Jewelry. Design and crafts lovers are welcome in Via della Spada where a tour is a must.

· Tuscan Food

Taste tradition: a Lampredotto sandwich in Piazza de’Nerli, Bistecca alla Fiorentina at Cambi restaurant, extraordinary Pappa al Pomodoro at Santo Bevitore. Want some ice cream?

Sorbetteria in Piazza Tasso and the world-famous Vivoli near Piazza Santa Croce are waiting for you.

Il ratto delle Sabine

Loggia del Porcellino

· Markets Tour

Second Italian museum for number of visitors, the Accademia displays the largest amount of Michelangelo’s sculptures in the world. A must-see, where you can find the original Michelangelo’s David and probably experience the Stendhal Syndrome. Remember to book in advance!

· Galleria dell’Accademia

IL Dumo

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Piazzale Michelangelo

Ponte Vecchio

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Palazzo Vecchio, the seat of the city’s civil and administrative authority. Sight is surrounded by ancient marble, bronze and stone statues, like Donatello’s Marzocco, the lion leaning on the coat of arms, and the Nettuno fountain. Here, the most famous gallery: the Uffizi.

Links the main part of the historical city centre with the “Diladdarno”, with artisan goldsmiths that once were butcher shops lining the path to the scenic terraces. The Vasari Corridor, that crosses the Arno at Ponte Vecchio, was built in 1565.

· Ponte Vecchio

To see

Palazzo Pitti

· Piazza della Signoria

Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral, Campanile di Giotto and Battistero; with its white Carrara marble front, hallowed in the year 1436, the Duomo dominates the whole square and Giotto’s Campanile. The Cathedral’s dome, finished with red bricks, outstands everything around.

· Piazza Duomo

Piazza della Signoria

A 5 minute walk to embrace absolute beauty: the city sight from Piazzale Michelangelo. You can walk the ancient stairways “Rampe del Poggi” starting from San Niccolò to climb up toward Piazzale. Once there just a few more steps to fall in love with the Church of San Miniato.

· Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato

Residence of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, home to the Medici, the Lorena and the Savoia families. The palace hosts an articulated compound of different galleries and museums: Palatina Gallery, Appartamenti Monumentali, Modern Art Gallery, Boboli Garden.

· Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Garden

Campanile di Giotto

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Artigianato e Palazzo

photo ŠAlessandro Moggi

photo ©Alessandro Moggi

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he 26th edition of the exhibition ARTIGIANATO E PALAZZO botteghe artigiane e loro committenze will be held this year from Thursday 4 to Sunday 7 June at the Corsini Gardens in Florence. A new selection of 100 pieces which bear witness to the highest artisan craftsmanship tradition but which also spotlight the new generations may be seen within a creative journey featuring potters, glass-makers, silver-chisellers and goldsmiths, engravers, restorers, luthiers, tailors, hardstone and wood inlay craftsmen, basket weavers, designers and much more.

This exhibition of select and diverse crafts promoted by the Associazione Culturale Giardino Corsini and conceived by Giorgiana Corsini and Neri Torrigiani is an opportunity to ponder and share new styles – which interpret the ever-mobile relationships between tradition and innovation, and manual skills and technology – by meeting craftspeople who reveal their secrets while at work in the workshops set up for them inside the orangeries and inside the Italian-style gardens.

“We continue to believe in a future for these manual skills that still exist in our country, but we must also continue to promote the value of creativity, originality and unique pieces if we wish to appreciate the profound meaning of this kind of work,” Giorgiana Corsini and Neri Torrigiani explained.

“BLOGS & CRAFTS i giovani artigiani e il web ” is a competition for artisans under the age of 35 and blogger/influencer who operate in the crafts, lifestyle and fashion field.

Family Recipes is an event held every afternoon which combines contemporary food culture with the traditional flavors and recipes of the past and also offers book presentations, live show cooking and tastings to the public.

In anticipation of ARTIGIANATO E PALAZZO the “GIAMBOLOGNA E LA FATA MORGANA” fundraising campaign is currently running.

It is dedicated to the restoration and conservation of artwork and involves private citizens and companies.

A new patronage project created by Giorgiana Corsini and Neri Torrigiani, who donated €50,000 in 2018 so that the Richard Ginori di Doccia Museum could reopen and €40,000 in 2019 to start restoration work on artwork produced for the Russian community in Florence between the 19th and 20th century.

A rich calendar of events will enhance the ARTIGIANATO E PALAZZO exhibition.

Here are a few:

ARTIGIANATO E PALAZZO 26th edition 4 - 7 June 2020 Open 10-20 Giardino Corsini | Via della Scala, 115 | 50123 Florence

The “Mostra Principe”, or Main Exhibition, recreates the creative journey of a brand which has made artisan craftsmanship the cornerstone of its international success.

for further information: www.artigianatoepalazzo.it Tel. +39 055 2654588/89 | info@artigianatoepalazzo.it Facebook and Instagram: artigianatoepalazzo

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ROYROGERS Roy roger’s is pioneer in blue jeans production since 1952. The evolution during the years includes the proposal of a men’s, women’s and children’s total look, with different lines and labels, taking from the brand’s historical archive. //Via Calimala, 27/red www.royrogers.it/

AQUAZZURRA The Italian luxury footwear brand AQUAZZURA was co-founded by Edgardo Osorio in 2011. Today the colourful designs with uncompromising comfort and craftsmanship have made AQUAZZURA an instantly recognizable household name in the world of luxury footwear. //Lungarno Corsini 42 r www.aquazzura.com

Dress Well & Accessories APROSIO In Florence it is Ornella Aprosio who stands out through her hand-crafted production of jewellery and accessories in Murano glass beads and Bohemian crystals and thanks to her, history rewinds through reusing high skilled feminine labour and recovering extremely fascinating materials. //Via del Moro 75/77r www.aprosio.it

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TUSCAN TYPICAL CUISINE

PIAZZA DELLA PASSERA +39.055.218562

WWW.4LEONI.COM

OYSTERS TRUFFLES CHEESE JAMON DE BELLOTA

VIA DELLO SPRONE 15R +39.055.4939246

NEXT EXHIBITIONS

5 April - 30 August 2020

5 April - 30 August 2020

15 May - 25 October 2020

Domus Aurea.

Protext !

Simone Forti. Senza Fretta

Martino Gamper, Francesco Vezzoli and the ceramics of Gio Ponti Info: www.centropecci.it

Foto: Fernando Guerra - FG + SG Fotografia de Arquitectura Courtesy: Centro Pecci Prato

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10 minutes with..

M r.

R O B E R TO

1) How long have you been practicing this craft?

R. U. “I’ve been making shoes since 1995.”

R. D.M. “I’ve been doing this work for 9 years, but I’ve been repairing shoes for 19 years.”

2) How did you develop this passion, which then became your work?

R. U. “I come from an artisan tradition. My mother sold shoes, my father repaired them.”

R. Q. M. “When I was ten years old, during a school play where one of the protagonists was actually a Shoemaker.”

3) Define the word “artisan.”

R. U. “Any self-respecting artisan has, first of all, a strong passion.

It’s certainly not a job that everyone can do.”

R. Q. M. “An artisan, for me, is someone who gives order, form and life to something that didn’t have them before.”

4) What value does your manual work have today in a period of multi-brands and homologation?

R. U. “It has an immense value. It is a concrete craft boasting tradition and social history.”

R. D. M. “The value is practically inestimable.

For quality (because only top-of-the-range materials are used), uniqueness (because the pieces produced are unique) and the passion that opposes the coldness of the multi-brands.”

5) Fashion speaks. But shoes, do they?

R. U.” Yes.” R. D. M. “Shoes say everything we often don’t say or don’t want to say... you just have to learn the “language.”

6) In Florence and the Oltrarno, there is still much work done in workshops. What response do you receive from the city?

R.U. “Florence is a city that still invests a lot in art and tradition.

The streets still bear the names of those who have made of their craft a form of art.”

R.D.M. “Florence and the Oltrarno still have many kinds of work that is done in workshops. In recent years, some of them have been swept away by flourishing restaurants and/or the like, because the city has basically shifted its “interests” towards the world of food service and less on that of artisans. But a bit of poetry expressed through these crafts, someone still sells it.”

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U G O L I N I

7) What quality must a good shoemaker have?

R. U.” Manual skill, patience and a strong dose of entrepreneurial spirit. There is a dialogue with the customer; ours is a relationship of trust, not the simple purchase of a product.”

R. D. M. “Infinite patience and great manual skill.

Good taste, precision, knowledge of the materials, knowledge of the market, a 360° knowledge of your customers.”

8) What advice would you give to someone wanting to undertake this path?

R. U.”(Laughter) “I can only wish him the best of luck!!”

R. Q. M “My advice is to always keep alive the fire that moved him to take the first step toward this world. If not, to stop right now because this work is nourished by passion.”

9) How do you see your work in a few years?

R. U. “This is a kind of work that I see in continual growth. On the other hand, luxury never dies and can only intensify the pursuit of beauty.”

R. Q. M. “This is the most difficult question... I see it more and more detached from its origins. In recent years, shoemakers have been competing to make the perfect shoe. If, on the one hand, all this has led to the creation of real masterpieces, and to raising the bar of the various shoemakers, on the other hand, all this is making a product lose its soul, a product that even accepted small imperfections, because they made each shoe unique and unrepeatable.”

10) How important has the figure of the maestro been for you and how do you consider yourself now that you are one?

R. U. “Certainly the most difficult thing was finding my first maestro. Now it’s easier, there are many craft schools in the city that train and educate artisans. Personally, being able to teach has always been a source of satisfaction, especially when I had students who came from all over the world.”

R. D. M. “The figure of the maestro in a person’s life, as in mine, has been fundamental. I consider myself fortunate to have always met maestros of the highest level in every field of my activities and especially in the workplace.

Today, I consider myself a student with the experience of a maestro, but it is important to remain a student, because in that way you never stop learning.”

It’s Showtime!

WE BROKE DOWN THE CITY’S VERY BEST THEATERS, BASED ON WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR.

Odeon Original Sound | Piazza Strozzi | The Odeon theater has been making cinema history in Florence since the early twentieth century. Its great hall in the historic center has played host to all the greatest films, the most illustrious guests, and the biggest events, and today the cinema/ theater is regarded as a unique example of the city’s architectural heritage of the twenties. The Odeon Original Sound program screens original language films every day. www.odeonfirenze.com

Lo Schermo dell’Arte Lo Schermo dell’Arte Film Festival is an international project dedicated to exploring and fostering the relationship between contemporary art and cinema through the presentation of films and installations, training schemes, residencies for international artists, and the production and distribution of artists’ films. Begun in Florence in 2008, over the years it has collaborated with numerous institutions, art centers, academies and universities, both Italian and foreign.

November @La Compagnia

La Compagnia | Via Cavour 50 | La Compagnia began life as the Cinema Modernissimo in 1921 and was later remodeled by architect Adolfo Natalini between 1984 and 1987. The theater screens documentaries: films celebrating the power of the true story, a truly modern form of cinema with deep historical roots. It is also home to international festivals, and a wide range of events beyond the cinematic, including exhibitions, meetings and conferences. www.cinemalacompagnia.it

River to River The River to River Florence Indian Film Festival, founded in Florence in 2001 under the patronage of the Indian Embassy, is the first festival outside India dedicated entirely to Indian cinema. Combining a passion for India with a passion for film, the organizers chose a name that would represent the flow of cultures, ideas and cinema, from one river to another: from the Ganges to the Arno, River to River.

December @Cinema Odeon

Spazio Alfieri | Via dell’Ulivo 8 | Spazio Alfieri is a space in the heart of Florence for people to meet and experience the arts: cinema, theater, music, food, design and the visual arts. Starting out by showing films in the original language with Italian subtitles as a staple of its regular cinema programming, it later branched out to also include the reverse: Italian films with English subtitles. www.spazioalfieri.it Cinema Stensen | Viale Don Minzoni | A space where the young staff carefully curate a program of independent films that promote constructive dialogue with the audience; a welcoming space that offers a café, bookshop, and places to stop and chat. The focus here is on quality, in terms of film as well as the concept and the space itself, encouraging diversity by offering the most suitable program of times and dates for each film: the program is tailored to the audience rather than the other way around.

Best film festivals

Our Suggestion: JO JO RABBIT

Festival dei Popoli The Festival dei Popoli is a film festival organized by the nonprofit organization of the same name, founded in 1959 in Florence by a group of social science scholars. Over its half a century of activity, the Festival has shown some of the finest international documentaries on its screens and has introduced its audience to some of the greatest filmmakers in the field.

November @Cinema Odeon

A World War II satire that follows a lonely German boy named Jojo (Roman Griffin Davis) whose world view is turned upside down when he discovers his single mother (Scarlett Johansson) is hiding a young Jewish girl (Thomasin McKenzie) in their attic. Aided only by his idiotic imaginary friend, Adolf Hitler (Taika Waititi), Jojo must confront his blind nationalism.

—Fox Searchlight Pictures

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Where to Eat

Enjoying food is one of the best pleasures of life.

The staff of Elitism presents you the top 3 restaurants of the month, selected after a fine and accurate test.

TRATTORIA 4 LEONI

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From ancient trattoria and flask shop to trattoria with an elegant and contemporary character. Located between the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Pitti, the Trattoria 4 Leoni owes its name to Canto ai 4 Leoni, between via Toscanella and via del Velluti, where the bas-reliefs of the 4 lions in sandstone embellished the cantons, one of which is still visible. Typical Tuscan cuisine, with its seasonal dishes and genuine raw materials, but also the great classics that can never be missing from tuscan menu, such as the Florentine steak, the Florentine tripe, the ossobuco in gremolada sauce, the gran fried of the farmyard. // Via dei Vellutini, 1r www.4leoni.it

GUNÈ

$$$

Gunè is much more than a restaurant. It is a place where words and flavours intertwine, giving life to a true culinary journey. It’s a project that opens its vision in the historic center of Florence.

Through its Renaissance structure, the restaurant is divided in comfortable niches where each piece of furniture is characterized by a play of colors and shapes, creating a warm and seductive atmosphere with a retro style. Gunè’s three words to describe its kitchen: handmade, with love, with grandmothers’ recipes. //Via del Drago D’Oro, 1/3r www.gunesanfrediano.it

ADAGIO

$$

Adagio is the place to rediscover the pleasures of tradition, the ancient knowledge and the genuineness of the flavors that the culture of Tuscany. A tribute to authentic Made in Italy, rediscovering Tradition and Hospitality in the excellence of Italian eating. We love Adagio for Lunch Time: it’s the ideal place to enjoy simple dishes in company. // Via de’ Macci 79r www.adagioflorence.com

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Where to Drink

Places to taste fine wines and artistic cocktails.

Our top 3 selection, with some alcoholic degree.

LOVECRAFT Love Craft is the first whiskey bar in Florence, in the heart of San Frediano. Here you will find a huge selection of spirits and liqueurs from all over the world: America, Japan, Italy, France: over 300 bottles displayed on the shelves behind the counter.

However, if you a re looking “just” for a good cocktail or a glass of wine, you can ask for it, the staff is awesome! // Borgo S. Frediano, 24

ENOTECA 4 LEONI A stone’s throw from the restaurant of the same name, this special place dedicated to wines and champagnes: over 100 labels from Italian and French producers selected by Teseo Geri, sommelier and wine consultant. And the dishes to pair them with? Gourmet recipes, oysters, truffles, cheeses, hand-sliced jamon de bellota, club sandwiches.

On request, wine tastings with sommeliers and producers.

An absolute must-try! //Via dello Sprone 15r

TASSO HOSTEL A couple of minutes from the city center of Florence, Tasso Hostel is located in a creative oasis. Between the houses of the local Florentine’s, working craftsmen, restaurants, trattorias, wine bars and the eclectic nightlife of the Oltrarno.Tasso Hostel has 13 uniquely designed rooms with excellent service and beautiful accommodations. And not only. It’s a special place for a good cocktail or a glass of wine. // Via Villani 15 www.tassohostelflorence.com readelitism.com

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Treasures of Caravaggio I N

Medusa : One of the most impressive masterpieces by the artist is on display at the Uffizi

T U S C A N Y

Who is Caravaggio :. Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio 29 September 1571– 18 July 1610 was an Italian painter active in Rome, Naples, Malta, and Sicily from the early 1590s to 1610.

His paintings combine a realistic observation of the human state, both physical and emotional, with a dramatic use of

lighting, which had a formative influence on Baroque painting.

Caravaggio employed close physical observation with a dramatic use of chiaroscuro that came to be known as tenebrism. He made the technique a dominant stylistic element, darkening shadows and transfixing subjects in bright shafts of light.

HIS WORKS IN TUSCANY FLORENCE Galleria degli Uffizi, 6 www.uffizi.it > Bacchus (1596-1597) Oil on canvas > Medusa (1598) Oil on Canvas > Sacrifice of Isaac (1603-1604)Oil on Canvas

FLORENCE Galleria Palatina Palazzo Pitti Piazza dè Pitti, 1 www.polomuseale.firenze.it >Sleeping Cupid (1608-1609) Oil on Canvas >The tooth Puller (1608-1610) Oil on Canvas

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Favorite restaurants: Simone Cipriani’s L’Essenziale, or for a good pizza but somewhere outside the normal pizzeria, L’UVA E IL VINO on Via del Leone near Piazza Tasso.

What do you like most about Florence: What I like most about Florence is its historic center, with its buildings and streets that I always admire from Piazzale Michelangelo in the morning when I go running. Though it’s not very big, it’s full of details and references to its glorious past.

An introduction to you and the work you do: I’ve mainly been managing my family’s hotels for about ten years, and for 4 years I’ve been developing the Florence Factory, a format that promotes designers and artisans in Florence.

Suggested by

J A C O P O

Your favorite store: Eredi Chiarini

Your favorite piazza: Piazza Santo Spirito

..and one for an aperitif: La Ménagère

A nice place (or two) to go for a drink in the evening after dinner: Ditta Artigiana on Via dello Sprone.

Where you like to have breakfast: Ditta Artigianale on Via de Neri and Caffè Gigli

Managi n g D i re ctor Plaz a H o te l Lu cc he s i E van H o te ls sr l

M R .

L O T T I

Florence Factory shop via dei Neri 6/8 r, Firenze Opening Monday 13.30 - 19.30 Thusday - Sunday 10.30 - 19.30

www.florencefactory.it

AWE SO ME

1 MONTH TO GO Get ready to download the newest & the coolest app to live and love Florence like a local.

APP

No, you can’t miss it A walk around the highlights of Jewish Florence: 1. The Synagogue: Florence’s Synagogue stands out on the city’s skyline with its green copper dome, as impactful as Giotto’s bell tower, rising above the roofs and the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio.

This religious, social and cultural centre was one of the first buildings of its kind to be edified outside the ghetto, which is why it’s one of the synagogues of the emancipation.

Arabesques and mosaics adorn the beautiful interior, while the gardens are a place of reflection stemming from a commemorative stone listing the names of Jewish Florentines who were persecuted and consequently disappeared. 2. The museum: Visit the synagogue museum to learn more about the intricacies of Jewish culture. Divided into sections, learn more about the Jewish relationship with the city of Florence, from settlement to the establishment of the ghetto and events linked to the Second World War. There’s a room focusing on the war to keep alive the memory of the Shoah. Equally interesting is the part of the exhibition that describes, through household religious items, the fundamental moments in Jewish life, from daily living to religious festivals.

3. Lunch at Ruth’s: Finish your immersion in Florence’s Jewish culture with a meal at Ruth’s. Food has always been an expression of a place, people and beliefs. Located near the Synagogue, this restaurant serves strictly kosher food, from traditional falafel and hummus to desserts like halva and blintzes.

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Piazza San Marco

Giardino dei Semplici

Galleria Dell’ Accademia

S.M. Novella Central Train Station

Mercato Centrale

Piazza dell’Unità

Piazza della S.S. Annunziata

San Lorenzo

Piazza S. Maria Novella Cathedral of Santa Maria Del Fiore

Palazzo Strozzi

Piazza Goldoni Ponte Alla Carraia

Piazza della Repubblica

Piazza San Firenze

Piazza S. Trinita Ponte S. Trinita

Mercato Nuovo

Piazza della Signoria

Piazza Santa Croce

Galleria Degli Uffizi Piazza Ponte Mentana Vecchio

Piazza Santo Spirito

Arn o

Piazza Dei Pitti Palazzo Pitti Giardino di Boboli

Piazza De’ Mozzi

Ponte Alle Grazie

ei

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Giardino della Giardino della Gherardesca Gherardesca

a

Sinagoga Sinagoga

Piazza Piazza S.S. Ambrogio Ambrogio

Piazza Piazza DeiCiompi Ciompi Dei

e

A no Arrrn Torre Torre G.G. Poggi Poggi Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo

Get Get lost in lost Florence Florence · Santa Croce Impossible not to stop to admire this gorgeous Church, that gives its name to the neighborhood. Walking the narrow streets and the small squares in the area you will find old workshops and small but precious museums like the Museo Horne and the Museo di Storia della Scienza. The first one displays a significant collection of paintings and sculptures collected by the art critic Horne itself, who lived there. The second is kind of a shrine to Galileo Galilei and hosts his telescopes and the lenses he used to discover the largest moons of Jupiter. Among the many peculiarities of this area, Michelangelo Buonarroti lived for a short period of his life right in Via Ghibellina. Time for the best ice cream in the world now, Vivoli! · Santo Spirito and San Frediano Workshops, goldsmiths, restorers and antiques shops make this two adjacent districts the area of the city in which still lives the old Florentine craftsmanship tradition. A visit to Church of Piazza Santo Spirito, Piazza del Cestello and to the Church of San Frediano in Cestello is in order. Walking through typical cobblestone small alleys named like the old jobs once exerted in the streets themselves (via dei Tessitori, via dei Cardatori, etc…) you can reach Piazza del Carmine. Don’t let the unfinished front side mislead you!

Inside the Church one of the greatest Renaissance masterpieces, the Cappella Brancacci, especially known for the astonishing fresco “Expulsion from the garden of Eden” painted by Masaccio. · Duomo and San Lorenzo San Lorenzo was one of the districts where the Medici family lived and where you can discover unbelievable beauties, strolling around the lanes maze. After the Duomo named Santa Maria del Fiore, the main city Cathedral, you can find the Cappelle Medicee, with their gorgeous marble and stone walls cladding and the first Medici palace, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, at number one in via Larga (now via Cavour). If you are hungry, the best for a quick meal is the Mercato Centrale, that offers a wide food and drinks choice in a fine steel, glass and cast-iron Art Nouveau building.

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· Sant’Ambrogio Lively, dynamic and always hot! The Sant’Ambrogio area usually surprises first time visitors. The main square, with the Sant’ambrogio Church, is one of the oldest in town and it is one of the locals favorite night-life places because of the plenty of clubs, bars, bistros and restaurants all around. A must-see is the Sant’Ambrogio covered Market where you can taste some of the traditional Tuscan products like “la Pattona”. This district is also home to the Synagogue and the Jewish Museum.

· San Niccolò It is not a district, not even a block, it is Via San Niccolò! In the Diladdarno is one of the oldest streets, and takes its name from San Nicola di Mira to whom the Church of San Niccolò Oltrarno is dedicated. The area is rich of notable historical buildings like the Palazzo del Rosso from the 17th century, the Palazzo Demidoff-Amici and the Palazzo GianniLucchesi-Vegni that shows on its facade a plaque to the memory of the Russian director Andrej Tarkovskij and his Florentine days. At number 99 Palazzo Stiozzi-Ridolfi, attributed to Baccio D’Agnolo, and at 107 the decorated front side of Palazzo Nasi-Quartesi with paintings from the 15th century.

· San Miniato al Monte and Piazzale Michelangelo The San Miniato al Monte Abbey is one of the most beautiful Romanesque Churches of Florence and is sacred to San Miniato, one of the first Florentine martyrs. Once you exit the Church, there you see it! The magnificence and the heart of Florence... Forte Belvedere, Santa Croce, the Arno, the Bridges...with the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio, Bargello and the Badia Fiorentina bell tower standing out among the breathtaking panorama and, north-side, the smooth hills of Fiesole and Settignano. Piazzale Michelangelo can be reached from Viale Michelangelo, a lovely tree-lined avenue that climbs the hillside, or from the old stoop of the Rampe di San Niccolò.

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Our Selection

www.sotf.com

03 / ALES GREY

01 / PLEASURES

04 / OFF WHITE

02 / PALM ANGELS 06 / MEDICOM

05 / CHRISTIAN ROTH

01 | PLEASURES - SHOPPER IN COTTON

04 | OFF WHITE - BAG

Outlet Price: € 80,00

Outlet Price: € 665

02 | PALM ANGELS - SHORTS MADE IN ITALY

05 | CHRISTIAN ROTH - EYEWEAR Outlet Price: € 325

Outlet Price: € 310 03 | ALES GREY - SNEAKERS HANDMADE Outlet Price: € 530

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06 | MEDICOM - TOY Outlet Price: € 720

The Medici Villas V I L L A

L A

T

he Medici Villas are rural architectural complexes that came into the possession of the Medici family between the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Apart from being places of relaxation and leisure, they also served as summer bases for the territories administered by the Medici and as centres of commercial and agricultural activities in the areas they were located in.

Villa LA PIETRAIA, which will be our focus in this edition, located in the hilly area of Castello, sits in a splendid panoramic position dominating the city of Florence and is considered, deservedly, to be one of the most beautiful of the Medici villas.

It originally belonged to the Brunelleschi family; during the fifteenth century, it passed first into the hands of the Strozzi family and then the Salutati. Cosimo I de’ Medici purchased it in 1544 and gifted it to his son Ferdinand. Initially, it was an ancient fortified building – the huge tower still standing today is part of the original nucleus of the complex. Ferdinand, who subsequently became a Cardinal, commissioned the enlargement and conversion to villa at the end of the sixteenth century.

Initially, he constructed a series of terraces in the surrounding land from which a beautiful garden could be created, adding a new extension on the north side and raising the tower. The garden, a veritable masterpiece, had an orchard of rare dwarf plant on its first terrace, flowerbeds on the second terrace with “simple”, medicinal plants, hence the name the “Giardino dei Semplici”, while the third, and largest, terrace featured trees and

P E T R A I A

covered walkways; citrus trees in enormous terracotta pots were everywhere. The creation of an inner courtyard also contributed to defining the new appearance of the country seat which, after further modifications, came into the possession of Lorenzo de’ Medici.

Among the statues that enhance the majesty of the villa, the most outstanding is Giambologna’s Venus. In the first half of the seventeenth century, “ Il Volterrano” [Baldassare Franceschini] was commissioned with painting a series of frescoes in the central courtyard, which were to extol the virtues of the dynasty and the accomplishments of the Knights of St Stephen. In the early eighteenth century, the villa passed into the hands of the Lorraine family, who refurbished the interiors and renovated the romantic English-style garden and the wide carriage drive, still in existence today.

In the following century, with the succession of the House of Savoy, Villa La Pietraia, became the residence of King Victor Emanuel II and his wife Rosa Vercellana; they had many ceilings decorated in white and gold and on the occasion of their son’s wedding, the impressive glass and steel roof over the central courtyard was constructed, creating an enormous banqueting hall.

In 1919, the villa was donated to the Italian State and has been home to the National Museum since 1984. Since 2013, it has been included in UNESCO’s World Heritage Site list.

Marta Matteini readelitism.com

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Folon’s Love f o r

F l o re n c e

J

ean-Michel Folon was an illustrator, painter and sculptor who was and born in 1934 in Uccle, near Brussels and died in the Principality of Monaco in 2005. Despite having studied architecture, he soon devoted himself to drawing and moved to Paris, where was influenced by Pablo Picasso and the Surrealists. His illustrations were rapidly published in numerous magazines and periodicals and his works exhibited in many parts of the world. In 1970, he represented Belgium at the Venice Biennale.

He created a world all of his own in which an anonymous figure seems to float in a vague, intangible, sometimes absurd world.

Folon’s connection with Florence began in his youth, but was no doubt consolidated in 1990 with the staging of an exhibition, a curated by Cristina Taverna, entitled Folon Firenze. In 2005, a large-scale solo exhibition was held at Forte Belvedere, curated

by Marilena Pasquali, where the artist displayed his famous watercolours and sculptures; the exhibition took place shortly before his death, which occurred in October of the same year. In 2011, Folon’s widow decided to donate some of the sculptures on show at that time to the city of Florence, a way of reaffirming the love of the artist and his family for the Tuscan city. Ten of these works were accordingly placed in the stunning Giardino delle Rose and fit in perfectly with the surrounding natural beauty and vistas.

The Rose Garden, which can be visited free of charge, was created in 1865 by the same architect who designed Piazzale Michelangelo, Giuseppe Poggi, commissioned by Florence City council in anticipation of the moving of the capital of Italy from Turin to Florence. It is reached by climbing up from the San Niccolò district towards Piazzale Michelangelo. In 1998, the garden was enhanced by a space gifted by the Japanese architect Yasuo Kitayama, a Japanese Shorai oasis, donated to Florence by its twin city, Kyōto and the Zen Kōdai-ji Temple. The garden houses a collection of roses, lemons, other plants and botanical rarities; around 400

varieties of roses and a total of 1,200 plants can be admired here, making it an ideal place for displaying Folon’s works, recreating the same magic that he was able to conjure up with his exhibition at Forte Belvedere, in perfect harmony with the city. His enchanting work Partir (“Leaving”) frames the Cathedral and Palazzo Vecchio in the outline of a suitcase in such a way that visitors can take away, in their eyes and hearts, a little piece of Florence, thanks to the imagination of the Belgian artist.

All Florentines are familiar with the much-loved artwork Pluie (“rain”), renamed “rain man”, gifted by Folon to the city on the occasion of the European Social Forum held in Florence in 2002.

The bronze fountain depicts a man in hat and coat holding up an umbrella handle from which water cascades around him, as if, in a dream, the rain has magically become the umbrella and is sheltering the man. If its positioning in the middle of a roundabout has, on one hand, made this work highly public, to be seen and enjoyed by all, including those who never set foot in exhibitions and museums, it has not saved our poor fellow from the carelessness of some motorists who have dented and endangered the statue. It has been newly restored, however, and placed on a higher pedestal, still in the middle of the same roundabout on Lungarno Aldo Moro.

It is strange that Folon’s works in Florence are in different places, the ten sculptures in the peace and quiet of the garden below Piazzale Michelangelo and the other in the midst of busy city traffic.

But maybe it is there, amid the everyday hustle and bustle, in contact with the most diverse people rushing past and casting a quick glance at him, that the rain man can magically bring a smile to our faces and remind us of how much love someone felt for this city, with all its beauties and imperfections.

Serena Becagli

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His first prominent acting leading role, co-star with Gina Lollobrigida, came in the comedy The Wayward Wife (1953) directed by Mario Soldati. And for this role he won an award from the Italian National Syndicate of Film Journalists and with it he established his reputation as a major romantic star.

And then came also the perfect role for him, the seducer par excellence Giacomo Casanova (1955) directed by Steno.

In his long career he had many challenging roles : He played in Puccini (1953), in Michelangelo Antonioni›s Le Amiche (1955) and was unforgettable as the

Gabriele Ferzetti belonged to the golden age of the world of International filmaking, the last one of a wonderful generation of famous Italian movie stars, such as Gassman, Mastroianni, Sordi, Tognazzi, Manfredi.

Elegant, urban and well-spoken, Gabriele Ferzetti was a versatile actor and one of Italy’s most prominent international stars of the 1950’s and 60’s. But he was different from any other actors of his time, may be not as “fashionable” as his colleagues, but of an unmatchable class. And a seducer. A charming gentleman, a little shy and introvert , who kept away from the footlights and the paparazzi.

Over seven decades he played a multitude of different film roles in every known genre and category and just about the only constant in his long career was that he was always incredibly handsome and charismatic without being showy.

Masterfully capabale to play the role of the contemporary man as nobody else better than him.

He acted in over 100 movies, he alternated the big screen to the theatre. His passion for the stage begun very early when he started performing in university plays and lasted all his long life.

Gabriele Ferzetti died at the age of 90 and had been acting until just a few years before.

Style Icon GA B R I E L E

F E R Z E T T I

By Cinzia Azzerboni

Ferzetti’s Hollywood roles included that of Lot in John Huston’s biblical epic The Bible: In The Beginning, (1966), though his most memorable appearance was in Sergio Leone’s Once Upon a Time in the West (1968) as a superb Morton, the railway baron on crutches, an evil and unscrupulous railroad magnate who hires a sadistic killer (Henry Fonda) to get the deeds to a piece of land which stands in the way of his planned railroad , and as James Bond’s father-in-law, Marc Ange-Draco, the sophisticated, organised and powerful crime boss in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (1969). Ferzetti’s character Marc Ange-Draco, the father of Tracy (Diana Rigg), the only Bond girl who gets to marry the hero, was given one of the best lines in the film: “My apologies for the way you were brought here. I wasn’t sure you’d accept a formal invitation,” to which Bond replies “There’s always something formal about the point of a pistol”.

weak, handsome, upper-class antihero in L’Avventura (1960) again directed by Michelangelo Antonioni, and for it he won the Festival Jury Prize and went on to compete over several decades for the No 1 spot on international critics’ lists of the 10 best films of all time.

By the early 60›s, Ferzetti›s distinguished features had him frequently cast in provocative political dramas as flawed men hiding behind charming, sophisticated facades.

He also acquired an international following with character roles in Torpedo Bay (1963), I Spy (1965), in Liliana Cavani’s 1974 film The Night Porter, he was starring with Dirk Bogarde and Charlotte Rampling.

He had more than 160 credits to his name across film, television and stage.

He won a Silver Ribbon for best Supporting Actor in Elio Petri’s ‘A ciascuno il suo’ ( 1967 ) and another Silver Ribbon for his role in La provinciale ( 1953 ).

M r.

RICE WITH ETHNIC AND SOLIDAL FLAVORS

SERVES

4

METHOD

PAN

INGREDIENTS FOR 4 PEOPLE 320 g of fine Coop Jasmin Solidal rice 200 g of Coop Vivi Verde carrots 60 g of Coop dried blueberries and raisins 30 g of roasted and salted Coop Solidal cashews 30 g of Coop pistachios 100 g Coop Solidal pineapple 1 teaspoon of turmeric 1/2 teaspoon of cinnamon 1 cardamom pod 2 tablespoons of Coop Solidal brown cane sugar Coop extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper

MINUTES

30

DIFFICULTY

5/10

1. Soak the raisins and blueberries in water for 10 minutes.

2. Boil the rice in abundant salted water and drain it while still al dente.

3. Clean the carrots well and cut them into thin sticks.

Open the cardamom pod and put the seeds into a mortar, then pulverize using the pestle.

4. In a pan, heat some oil and sautĂŠ the carrots with the cinnamon, cardamom, pepper and turmeric for a couple of minutes. Add the brown sugar, raisins and blueberries with 1 glass of the soaking water and continue cooking for another 5 minutes, then adding the pineapple cut into small pieces.

5. Once the vegetables are ready, add the rice and pistachios to the pan, and mix well to season all the rice.

Serve with toasted cashews.

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Agenda: For information and to buy tickets: Box Office

www.boxofficetoscana.it - info@boxofficetoscana.it

MARCH ORT - Mozart e Brahms: i grandi Quintetti Sunday 01 at 11:00 Firenze - Relais Santa Croce Nada Thursday 05 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Puccini Rocco Papaleo - Coast to Coast Friday 06 + Saturday 07 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Puccini Legacy Kodò Saturday 07 at 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Raf e Tozzi Sunday 08 at 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Julia Kent Friday 13 at 21:15 Firenze - Sala Vanni Renzo Arbore Saturday 21 at 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Brunori SAS Saturday 21 at 21:00 Firenze - Nelson Mandela Forum Zubin Mehta Saturday 28 at 20:00 Firenze - Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Mine vaganti From Tuesday 31 March till Sunday 05 of April at 20:45 (Sunday at 15:45) Firenze - Teatro della Pergola

APRIL ORT - Valentina Pelleggi Direttore Wednesday 01 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Serena Dandini - Serendipity Friday 03 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Puccini Zubin Mehta e Stefano Bollani Friday 03 at 20:00 Firenze - Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Snarky Puppy Saturday 04 at 21:00 Firenze - TuscanyHall Angela Hewitt - pianoforte Saturday 04 at 16:00 Firenze - Teatro della Pergola

Mary’s Bath Sunday 05 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Cantiere Florida The Dubliners From Tuesday 14 till Sunday 19 at 20:45 (Sunday at 15:45) Firenze - Teatro della Pergola Maratona di danza From Wednesday 15 till Thursday 16 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro di Rifredi

MAY Ghost - Il musical From Thursday 07 till Sunday 10 at 20:45 (Sunday at 15:45) Firenze - Teatro Verdi Oblomov From Thursday 07 till Sunday 10 at 21:00 Pontedera - Teatro ERA EBI Saturday 09 at 20:45 Firenze – TuscanyHall Joe Satriani Tuesday 12 at 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Marco Masini Friday 15 Saturday16 and Sunday 24 at 20:45 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Le ragazze di San Frediano From Tuesday 19 till Sunday 24 at 21:00 (Saturday at 19:00, Sunday17:00) Firenze - Teatro Niccolini ORT - Daniele Rustioni Thursday 21 at 21:00 Firenze - Teatro Verdi Gianna Nannini Saturday 30 at 21:00 Firenze - Stadio Artemio Franchi

L E T I Z I A B AT TA G L I A CORPO DI DONNA BODY OF WOMAN From March 7 till April 7 2020 @Crumb Gallery Via San Gallo 191r

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Nearby P IEN ZA

Pienza is the most well-known center of the Val d’Orcia and is famous as being the home town of Pope Pius II, born Enea Silvio Piccolomini in 1405. Pius II, once elected Pope, transformed his home town, Corsignano, into an urban-architectural jewel, in this way contrasting it with the city that had marginalized his family: Siena. He entrusted the town’s reconstruction to the architect Bernardo Rossellino, who in just four years, from 1459 to 1462, developed the harmonious and typically 14th century appearance of what would become Pienza. Thus, the Città d’Autore took shape, the Ideal City “born from a thought of love and a dream of beauty,” as Giovanni Pascoli once wrote. Another almost unique characteristic of this place is that it has survived to today intact, allowing us to admire the sense and intention of Rossellino’s work. Indeed, after those four years, Pienza has largely remained unchanged, thanks also to the premature death of Pope Pius II. In 1996, together with the whole of the Val d’Orcia, Pienza was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Monticchiello also deserves a mention, a small medieval hamlet near the town that, with its Cassero, walls, and medieval gate, stands out in the stunning landscape of the valley.

Residents of Monticchiello keep the ancient tradition of Teatro Povero, or Poor Theatre, alive and active, evidence of the town’s cultural vivacity and the community’s attachment to their history and identity.

Text by www.visituscany.com

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Useful Infos ARRIVE AND MOVE AROUND FLORENCE

THE FIRENZE CARD

SUNDAY AT T H E M U S E U M S

> ARRIVE AND - MOVE AROUND FLORENCE From the airport to Florence (and vice versa) The public transportation system of the city offers a special and frequent bus line from and to Florence Airport. It is a 25 minutes ride by shuttle bus, called Volainbus, operating between the airport and the central railway station.

The new line T2 Vespucci connects the Central Train Station to the Vespucci airport. The tramway rides from 5 am to 00,30 am at night and to 2,00 am on week ends; trains every 4 minutes.

The bike sharing in Florence Moving by bicycle in Florence is a beautiful idea, especially if the city has the innovative free bike sharing system: mobike. How to use the service? Just Download the free Mobike APP and follow the instructions.

By Taxi Taxis are white, can be called by phone or found at the various taxi ranks dotted around the city, at the airport, at the main train stations. It is possible to get them by SMS or Skype or with dedicated APPs.

> THE FIRENZE CARD The city of Florence has a special tourist card, which is called Firenze Card. It is valid for 72 hours and provides you priority admission to 80 museums, villas and historical gardens located in Florence and surroundings (all the most important are included). The “classic” Firenze Card has also other versions: the Firenze Card Plus and the Firenze Card Restart.

> S UNDAY AT THE MUSEUMS On the first Sunday of the month, from October to March, state-owned museums and archaeological areas are open for free for everybody: it’s Sunday at the Museum. FullSizeRender-1Therefore on this day visitors of Florence can access, without having to pay a fee, a number of art places: some very famous ones and some lesser-known ones, a real art binge at zero cost.

More infos at http://www.firenzeturismo.it/en

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FONTANELLI ALTA QUALITĂ€ PUBLIACQUA

SESTO FIORENTINO

Un travolgente.

Ansuccesso overwhelming success.

Oltre 270 milioni di litri erogati over 350 million litersdiofacqua water supplied dal 2011 ad oggi. from 2011 to today

Piazza Primo Maggio Via della Sala

Parco S

Piazza Garibal

Piazza della Crezia Via Chiusi Villa Vogel Via del Pantano

Via D

SCANDICCI

22FONTANELLI fountains 22 installed onterritorio the distribuiti nel di Firenze territory of Florence

350 millions 270 MILIONI of liters supplied by the 95

di litri erogati installed dal 2011 al fountains in 2016 the Publiacqua area

FIESOLE

Via delle Panche Piazza Dalmazia

San Donato

ldi

SETTIGNANO

Via Maragliano Piazza Vittoria

Florence

Dosio

6

Via Manfredo Fanti

Via dell’Agnolo Piazza Signoria Piazza Tasso

Via del Mezzetta Via Aretina Parco Anconella Piazza Bartali

ARCETRI

Piazza Puliti

180 MILIONI 180 millions

di bottiglie di citizens plastica not spent by risparmiate

72 MILIONI 230 millions

di euro risparmiati of bottles not produced dai cittadini

Arrivederci!

See it, snap it, share it.

There’s something magical around every corner.

#elitismflorence

See you next time in Florence.

We can’t wait to welcome you again. www.readelitism.com

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