E L I TE 時 尚 精 英
珠寶世界 夏日保養 中西文化 海景住宅 房產投資
Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純
The Spirit of Jade 千年磨礪 溫潤有方——東方人玉情懷 JULY-AUGUST 2021
Rubies: Treasured for Their Rarity and Inner Fire 如焰般的克拉世界——認識七月誕生石
A Carmel-by-the-Sea Residence 卡梅爾海濱住宅改建 打造心儀之居
Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021 亮彩迎盛夏 July-August 2021 $6.99
ISSUE 51
目錄 CONTENTS 4
Editor’ s Note 序
6
Editor’ s Pick
8
Chic Accessories for Summer 海灘風情 Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021
14
Elevate Your Look and Composure With Jewelry
編輯精選
亮彩迎盛夏 「珠」如妙語 道未言之美——淺說珠寶穿戴禮儀
19
Editor’ s Pick 編輯精選
Dainty Azure Timepieces「腕」轉夏夜 20
Choosing a Facial Cleanser 潔面產品選擇指南
26
New Launches 夏季護膚新品
29
The July Birthstone Rubies: Treasured for Their Rarity and Inner Fire
35
The Spirit of Jade Its Sacred and Noble Status in Chinese Culture
如焰般的克拉世界——認識七月誕生石
千年磨礪 溫潤有方——東方人玉情懷
40
Capturing Eternity Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 細繪生命熅火 ——專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純
46
Tips for Enjoying a Healthier Summer Barbecue 烤肉配妙方 食肉輕盈無負擔
COVER
Photographer: Edward Dye Stylist: Marisa Ellison Model: Stephanie Lai Makeup and Hair Stylist: Naomi Liu Dress by Stella McCartney Wrist cuff by Chloé Rings(not shown) by Katkim and Ananya Shoes by Casadei
50
Contemporary Living With Breathtaking Oceanfront Views: A Carmel-by-the-Sea Residence 坐擁蔚藍畫卷——卡梅爾海濱住宅改建 打造心儀之居
56
Home Editor’ s Pick 家居編輯精選
Get Ready for a Sizzling Summer 哈囉，夏天！ 62
The Post-Pandemic Long Island Real Estate Market 疫情下的長島地產市場變化
SCH E DUL E A S H O W R O O M APPOI NTM ENT 1755 Rollins Road, Burlingame, CA 94010 • 650-240-3000 • subzero-wolf.com /norcal
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序 EDITOR’S NOTE
一見傾心
“These gems have life in them: Their colors speak, say what words fail of.” 英國知名女文學家Mary Ann Evans筆下寫出寶石無與倫比的風采。 萬物皆有靈，倘若能聽見寶石絮語，會聽見什麼樣的對話？也許方 寸內，穹宇盡纜，星河燦爛；看似靜默，卻生意盎然，遠不止於文 學中的浪漫遐思。 世上找不著兩顆一模一樣的天然寶石，其獨一無二，蘊著曖曖熒 光，承載著億萬年的歲月。從千年傳承的東方玉石文化，或西方文
紐約市歷史建築翻新與改造設計等
明中的誕生石禮俗，皆可見寶石與人們在歷史長河中交織出的深厚
歡迎您來電諮詢。
情誼。當它被精細打磨成珠寶後，成了生活中的時尚配件，時而作
擁有紐約、新澤西及康州執照
珠 寶， 不 再 只 是 精 緻 櫥 窗 中， 透 過 價 格 堆 砌 而 成 的 貴 重 物 品，
美國建築師註冊委員會 NCARB 認證
展 開 的， 將 是 一 段 旅 程， 而 不 僅 是 一 張 購 物 明 細。 本 期 盼 能 透
為最真摯的告白，訴說濃烈的情意。
美國建築師學會 AIA 會員
而是具有靈性的生命。如若我們能珍惜與它的相遇，那麼隨之
綠色建築註冊專業人士 LEED AP
過時尚、文化角度的珠寶特輯，細品究竟何以鑄就其珍貴與璀 璨。本次獨家專訪法國頂級珠寶設計師——張嘉純（Chia-Chun Chang），從她20餘年的設計職涯中，帶我們一窺頂級珠寶世界 蘊藏的神祕風景；而那些溢乎言詞的生命感受，又如何藉由設計 轉譯成一件件美妙的作品？ 願您在燦爛的珠寶世界裡，拾掇生命中最婉轉而直白的「 話語 」。
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2
EDITOR'S PICK
Chic Accessories for Summer 海灘風情 3
As the days get longer and warmer, we find ourselves longing for a vacation. Throw your belongings in a woven tote bag and escape the stifling heat with a day trip to the beach. Accessorize with a straw hat and beaded jewelry for a look that is practical yet stylish.
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盛 夏 的 酷 熱 襲 來， 誰 不 想 擁 抱 清 涼 的 大 海？打 開你的首飾盒，選一條亮麗的串珠鍊戴上，頭頂 最適合遮蔽豔陽的大草帽，最後把你的陽傘、墨 鏡、防晒乳、隨身電扇、泳裝，通通丟進可以收納 大小物品的編織托特包裡。隨手一拎，奔向你的
4
1 SYDNEY EVAN, 24 IN. ENAMEL EVIL EYE FLOWER ON 0.16 IN. IMPRESSION JASPER NECKLACE, $705, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 2 EUGENIA KIM, MIRABEL GROSGRAIN-TRIMMED WOVEN STRAW HAT, $495, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 3 AKOLA, GALA CRYSTAL PAVÉ AND NATURAL COLORED GLASS STATEMENT NECKLACE, $350, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE. COM | 4 CHLOE, WOODY LARGE PRINTED CANVASAND LEATHER-TRIMMED RAFFIA BASKET BAG, $620, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 5 LOEWE, PAULA'S IBIZA SMALL LEATHER-TRIMMED WOVEN RAFFIA TOTE, $650, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 6 HEIDI KLEIN, SAVANNAH BAY MEDIUM RAFFIA TOTE BAG, $334, MATCHESFASHION.COM 5
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PHOTOS BY SAKSFIFTHAVENUE, NET-A-PORTER ,AND MATCHESFASHION.
美好假期！
Bridging
East &West
兼容東西，發現美好
《時尚精英》是中英雙語的高端生活風格雜誌，致力於發掘根植於東西方文明的傳統價值、智慧與漫布其中的美。 在您追求美好人生的路上，盼《時尚精英》能成為您獲得啟發和激勵的好夥伴。
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ELITE FASHION
Summer Wardrobe Essentials for 2021 亮彩迎盛夏 As the United States begins to reopen after the COVID-19 outbreak, bright and exuberant clothing pieces are flying off the shelves. Though the challenges are far from over, there is a renewed sense of energy in the air. The summer of 2021 is special—it represents the birth of a new era. We want our wardrobe to reflect this through bold colors and joyful prints. 在疫情後重新開放的美國，已有越來越多明亮熱情的服飾重返大眾視野， 儘管困境遠未結束，但空氣中已然可嗅出一股嶄新的活力。 2021年的夏 天很特別，它代表了一個新時代的誕生，讓充滿繽紛色彩、明亮印花的衣 櫃間，來歡慶這特別的時節。
Photographer: Edward Dye Stylist: Marisa Ellison Model: Stephanie Lai Makeup and Hair Stylist: Naomi Liu
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Optimistic colors, such as a sunny yellow, are in trend this summer. They represent happiness and exhilaration, and can counteract stress, making you feel cheerful and energized. 樂觀的顏色，如陽光黃，是今年夏天的趨勢。 它代表著幸福和歡欣，可以中和壓力， 讓人感到愉快，充滿活力。 DRESS BY STELLA McCARTNEY WRIST CUFF BY CHLOÉ RINGS BY KATKIM (LEFT HAND), ANANYA (RIGHT HAND) SHOES BY CASADEI
ELITE FASHION
ELEVATE YOUR LOOK AND COMPOSURE WITH JEWELRY 「珠」如妙語 道未言之美 ——淺說珠寶穿戴禮儀 By Elite’s Fashion Editorial Team
Queen Alexandra when Princess of Wales, oil on canvas by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (1805–1873). Princess Alexandra’s ball gown bears the badge of the Order of Victoria and Albert. Her brooch and earrings were a gift from Prince Albert Edward upon their marriage in 1863. Courtesy of The Royal Collection
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4
1
2 3
F
rom the beginning of the Mesopotamian civilization, through the Middle Ages, and to the 18th-century Victorian Era, jewelry has had an important role in society. Its role has gradually changed from serving religious purposes to being a status symbol for nobles, and eventually making its way into the everyday person’s wardrobe.
「 愚 頓 的 珠 寶 沉 默不 語，卻比任 何言 語 更能 打 動 女人 心。」英國文豪莎士比亞曾如此在其著作中形容珠寶， 珠寶就像是一道語言，能體現文字、話語所未能觸及的 細膩情感。從美索不達米亞文明開始，走過中世紀，再 到18世紀維多利亞時代（Victorian era），珠寶設計產 業大放異彩；從宗教用途到皇宮貴族的表徵，再一步步 地 走 入人人可及的時 尚生活中。這琳 琅滿目的珠寶首 飾，有著什麼樣的穿戴哲學呢？
ACHIEVING THE BEST EFFECT WITH EARRINGS In ancient China, it was said that wearing earrings could affect a young woman’s entire demeanor, helping her become more graceful and composed. This remains true today—an elegant pair of earrings can instantly elevate any outfit as well as the wearer’s bearing. Earrings come in three main categories: hoops, studs, and drops. Within these, there are numerous other types, depending on length, shape, and size. Though small, earrings can make a remarkable statement.
精巧的氣質烘托者——耳飾 相傳於中國古代，女性配戴耳墜有約束儀態之作用，避 免做出有失禮節的行為。現今耳飾主要類型可分為耳墜、 耳釘以及耳環三類。它們又依短長、大小、形狀細分成多 種，如吊燈式的華麗珠寶耳墜（Chandelier Earrings）， 或是一般垂狀的長耳墜（Dangle Earrings），耳釘式設 計雖相對簡約，但也有許多優雅大方的經典款式。 出席正式場合，若以耳飾作為宣言珠寶（Statement Jewelry），或是配戴華麗的長耳墜，切記 避免搭配 過 於浮誇的項鍊，除非耳墜與項鍊是成對的珠寶，否則兩 者容易互搶光彩，重點在於協調感。若想增添其他珠寶，
1 FABERGÉ, HERITAGE 18 K. GOLD, ENAMEL AND DIAMOND EARRINGS, $9,975, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 2 PIAGET, SUNLIGHT EARRINGS IN 18 K. ROSE GOLD SET WITH 30 BRILLIANT-CUT DIAMONDS, $17,900, PIAGET.COM | 3 HARRY WINSTON, CLUSTER CHANDELIER EARRINGS FEATURING DIAMONDS SET IN PLATINUM, PRICE UPON REQUEST, HARRYWINSTON.COM | 4 IRENE NEUWIRTH, SUPER BLOOM 18 K. GOLD DIAMOND EARRINGS, $12,940, NET-A-PORTER.COM
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ELITE BEAUTY
CHOOSING A
FACIAL CLEANSER 潔面產品選擇指南 English by Pia-Maria Norris Translated by Kelly Gao
I
n addition to keeping the skin moisturized and protected from the sun, cleansing is the first and most important step in your skin care routine and in the quest for maintaining a healthy and youthful-looking complexion. Picking the right cleanser for your skin type is also essential. For example, oily skin should stay away from thick cleansing balms to avoid potential breakouts and clogging. Considering all the different options and textures among facial cleansers, choosing one can be tricky. So we put together a list of 11 types of cleansers to help you choose the one that might be best for your purpose and skin type. 除了保溼和防晒外，清潔是您日常護膚，維持肌膚健 康年輕的第一步，也是最重要的一步。 為您的膚質選擇適合的潔面乳也很重要。比如： 油性膚質應遠離厚重的卸妝膏，以避免爆痘和毛孔堵 塞。市面上各色潔面品眾多，質地各異，選擇一種可 能會很難。因此，我們匯整了 11 種不同類型的品項， 幫助您選擇最適合自己膚質的潔顏品。
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GEL CLEANSERS
Gel cleansers are light face washes that are deep-cleansing. They are 潔顏凝膠 typically clear, with a gel-like consistency, and need to be rinsed off with water. Gel cleansers remove makeup, and some of them also have antiseptic and exfoliating properties, which make them effective at removing excess oil, decongesting clogged pores, and eliminating acne-causing bacteria. Gel cleansers tend to be suitable for normal, combination, oily, and acne-prone skin. 潔顏凝膠是能夠進行深層清潔的清透性潔面乳。它通常 是透明的，凝膠般的質地，需要用水沖洗乾淨。這類潔 顏品還可用於卸妝，其中一些還具有殺菌和去角質的功 效，能夠有效去除多餘的油脂、疏通堵塞的毛孔，並滅 除引起痘痘的細菌。一般適用於中性、混合性、油性及 易長痘痘的膚質。
Natura Bisse Facial Cleansing Gel + A.H.A. ($55, naturabisse.com)
Cream cleansers are creamy and thick, with moisturizing ingredients like botanical oils. They gently but ef潔顏乳霜 fectively cleanse and remove traces of makeup without stripping the skin of its natural oils, leaving skin soft and beautiful. Most of them require rinsing, whereas some need to be wiped off with a cloth. Cream cleansers are suitable for dry, normal, mature, and sensitive skin. In cold weather, they are ideal for all skin types. If you have mature skin that is dry, then this is the perfect cleanser.
CREAM CLEANSERS
潔顏乳霜是乳脂狀的，質地濃稠，含有植物油等保溼成 分。該類型潔顏品可以溫和而有效地清潔和去除殘妝， 並且不會帶走皮膚的天然油脂，讓皮膚柔軟有光澤。該 質地的洗面乳霜需要沖洗，有些還需要用化妝棉擦拭。 一般適用於乾性、中性、熟齡。及敏感肌膚。它是氣候 Dr Sebagh Rose de Vie Cream Cleanser (£32.00, drsebagh.com)
寒冷時，所有膚質的理想選擇。如果您是熟齡且偏乾性 肌膚，那麼該類潔顏霜將是最佳選擇。
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garment worn by the high priest of the Israelites. It was used to communicate with God, and contained 12 gemstones that inspired the modern-day birthstones. While the exact gems featured are debated, the first stone was referred to as “odem”—meaning red—which many believe to have been the ruby. In ancient times, people believed that rubies held the power of life, due to their similarity in color to the blood that flows through our veins. Their blood-like hue led people to think that rubies had healing and life-sustaining qualities. The stone was often used in medicine, as many claimed rubies and other red gems could stop bleeding and inflammation. The stone was valued for its protective powers. In China, noblemen would adorn their armor with rubies, as they believed the gems would shield them from harm. The ancient Burmese regarded it as the stone of soldiers, granting them strength and protection in battle. They would insert rubies into their flesh to obtain immunity against attacks.
Pair of ruby and brilliant bracelets for the Duchess of Angoulême (1814-1830) by Jacques-Evrard Bapst. The stunning bracelets are made from 24 oval rubies surrounded by 356 round brilliants. The sparkling white diamonds further enhance the vibrancy of the scarlet rubies. Courtesy of the Musée du Louvre / Daniel Arnaudet
此外，這些寶石必須分別刻上以色列12支派之名，彷彿 把以色列的子民戴在胸前，仰望著神，引領他們走出困 境。自此這些光彩耀眼的寶石，也成了與上天溝通的聖 物。歷來人們也一直相信，只有最精美的寶石，配上最 純正的黃金，才能發出強大的能量來敬奉神祇。 在印度宗教文化裡以及古老的梵文文學著作中，就 有記載一棵名為「Kalpavriksha」的神聖之樹。關於這棵 樹，有個夢幻的傳說。印度音樂學家 Sourindro Mohun Tagore 所著的《Mani Mala》一書記載，這棵樹是由各種 珍貴的寶石組成，包括鑽石、藍寶石、黃玉，祖母綠， 以及其他寶石，而它所結成的果實，就是紅寶石。而在 印度的珠寶文化中，紅寶石同樣擁有非凡的地位。 石之庇佑 關於紅寶石的寓意有諸多說法，或許與它本身的特質有 關。它的堅毅帶來信心、珍稀程度相應著權位的高貴， 它的色澤激發著人們心中的熱情，進而象徵熱烈的愛 情。在中世紀的歐洲，許多貴族身上佩戴紅寶石，盼能 獲得財富、智慧及愛情。在英國傳統婚姻文化中，四十 年的婚姻，稱作「 紅寶石婚 」，許多夫婦會以紅寶石作為 四十週年的定情信物。 在印度民間，人們相信紅寶石會帶來和平，免於征 戰。而當人夢見紅寶石，這代表幸福與財富即將降臨。 在西元 8 世紀，阿拉伯書籍曾記載一個說法：當國王夢 見紅寶石皇冠，代表他即將獲得權力，打敗其對手；農 民夢見寶石，則表示會大豐收；商人夢見則會生意興隆。 種種跡象都一再強調：紅寶石能捎來好運。
Mirror Frame with Tree of Life Motif (1601–1800), India. This ancient mirror, designed for the Mughal court, depicts a tree of life with inlaid gold stems and leaves and buds of rubies, diamonds, and emeralds. The motif was the same as the legend in India’s religious culture—the divine tree called “Kalpavriksha.” Courtesy of the Art Institute of Chicago
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人們普遍相信寶石擁有特殊的能量，而紅寶石那鮮 紅的色澤恰似人體內奔流的血液，讓人深信其治癒與延 續生命的能力，進而象徵生命之泉源。根據史料，早在 西元前 200 年，在中國北方絲綢之路上，就有紅寶石的 交易記錄。據說，當時中國貴族會在盔甲以及刀鞘上， 鑲上紅寶石，求其護佑之效。而在古代的緬甸也有相似
Rubies were also sought after as a symbol of luck, harmony, and prosperity. In medieval Europe, many nobles wore rubies to gain health, wisdom, and romantic success. People in India believed that rubies could help them live in peace with their enemies. It’s said that dreaming about rubies is a sign that great happiness and fortune are coming your way. In an eighth-century Arabic book on dreams, the author, Achametis, claims that a king who dreams about a crown of rubies will soon gain power over his enemies. For farmers and tradesmen, dreaming about rubies could signify a good harvest or success in business. A RARE GEM Most people know rubies for their striking red color, but they can actually be found in a wide range of shades—from light pink to deep burgundy. Slight differences in color can make a huge difference in the value of the stone. Bright red stones typically command the highest prices, with the most coveted shade being a pure, vibrant red with a hint of blue.
A young noblewoman in décolleté white dress with frilled sleeves (1797–1820) by Moritz Michael Daffinger. The woman in this painting wears a full set of ruby jewelry, including a crown, earrings, and necklace. Public domain
的傳說。西元 600 年左右，緬甸就作為出產紅寶的大宗 之國。緬甸人認為，紅寶石為「 將士之石 」，擁有超常 的防護力，因此有些人會在身上割開一小口，放入紅寶 石，並相信如此便能刀槍不入。時至今日，仍能耳聞礦 物療法，紅寶石則作為修補人體心脈運行不順的機制。 「 礦 」世珍寶 從古老的巴比倫文明開始，走過漫長的中世紀，紅寶石在 西方文明史中，一直受到皇室、王公貴族的追捧，如今 那些被賦予歷史價值的紅寶石，成了博物館裡供人瞻仰的 藏品，而品質極佳的紅寶石，被打磨成價值連城的珠寶， 件件皆非常人所能觸及的尋常之物。天然紅寶石在地球上 所存在的數量稀少，比起其他有色寶石更為珍罕，歷史上 著名的波斯學者 al-Biruni 曾說紅寶石的「 色彩、美態與 等級皆無石能出其右 」。此外，並非所有的紅色寶石， 都能稱作「 紅寶石 」。儘管在歷史上有許多著名的古蹟文 物、文獻中，多有關於紅寶石的記載，但其實質卻非真正 的紅寶石，因為英文「Ruby」一詞的字源義，僅表示紅色 的寶石。其稀少程度，可能遠超我們想像。 The Imperial State Crown 1937
例如英國古老的「 黑太子紅寶石 」（Black Prince's
What is known as the Black Prince’s Ruby decorates the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom; however, the gem is actually a red spinel.
Crown）上，這顆重達 170 克拉的「 紅寶石 」，其實是
Courtesy of The Royal Collection
一顆紅色尖晶石。過去幾個世紀，有許多著名的皇冠上
Ruby），現在鑲嵌在英國帝國皇冠（ Imperial State
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Rubies are one of the rarest gemstones in the world, and among colored stones, demand the most exorbitant prices. Quality natural rubies of more than 1 carat are hard to come by, making them extremely valuable. For centuries, Burma (also known as Myanmar) has been the source for the highest-quality stones. Rubies from that area typically command the highest prices, as they have the much desired “pigeon blood” red hue. The Mogok Stone Tract in Upper Burma has been the go-to source for the finest rubies for hundreds of years, as the gems found there hold exceptional color in almost all lighting conditions. In the past, various red stones have been mistaken for rubies, further indicating the stone’s rarity. Many ancient relics and artifacts believed to have contained rubies have since been proven to actually be other gems. One of the most famous examples is the Black Prince’s Ruby, which decorates the Imperial State Crown of the United Kingdom. What was previously thought to be a 170-carat ruby was found to be a red spinel. ENDURING LOVE The bold red hue of the ruby radiates passion and sophistication, making ruby jewelry perfect statement
pieces. Whether worn in the form of a ring, necklace, earrings, or bracelet, the gemstone adds a bold yet timeless touch to every outfit. Rubies also make a great gift for your partner— there’s no better stone to express your love and devotion. It’s traditionally known as the 40th-anniversary gem, as the stone’s internal fire represents the inner flame and strength that hold a marriage together for four decades. If you’re searching for something special for the love of your life, then look no further than the ruby. Even today, people are drawn to rubies for their spiritual properties. It’s believed that the gem’s fiery energy can bring warmth and energy to one’s aura, as well as increase spiritual wisdom and inner strength. However, it’s important to keep a clear mind and avoid negative emotions. The ruby is such a rare stone that it can trigger feelings of greed, arrogance, and vanity, overshadowing the stone’s energy. Only by maintaining a good heart and positive outlook can one reap the benefits of this remarkable jewel.
的大顆紅色寶石都是尖晶石。除卻這些文物的歷史價 值，與紅寶石同等質量的紅色尖晶石，價格僅為其十分 之一，素來作為紅寶石的替代品。 當今世上，一克拉的天然紅寶就極難取得，價格更 是隨遞加的克拉數而翻倍增長。大多數人對紅寶石的印象 就是它那亮眼的紅，其實它所折射出的光彩更是一大看 頭。從淺粉到橙紫以至暗紅色，些微的色澤差異，就會 大大地影響其市場價格。 世上最著名的紅寶石產地仍屬緬甸莫谷。數百年 來，該地出產的紅寶石多為世界公認的高品質，而擁有 「 鴿血紅 」的紅寶石更為上品，深邃的紅為寶石主色，定 睛觀察能見紫色或粉色之紅，有些還略帶一絲的藍，散 發柔和的紅色熒光。能被國際寶石鑑定組織判定為「 鴿 血紅 」的寶石，必須通過相當嚴謹的篩選條件，倘若能 在鑑定書上看見「 鴿血紅 」一詞，價格往往水漲船高。 價格或許可以估量，但我們又要如何界定這一顆顆 紅寶石的價值呢？那藏在鏗鏘石下的焰火，數千年來炙 熱著人們的心，它不僅是世間至美的天然礦物，還蘊含 著濃烈的生命情感。不過，在這數千名的文明之中，也 不盡然只有正面效應。正因它如此珍異，當人們的私心
This magnificent ruby-and-diamond ring belonged to actress Elizabeth Taylor and was auctioned off in December 2011 for more than $4 million. It was given to her by actor Richard Burton, who promised her, “One day I’m going to find you the most perfect ruby in the world.” Justin Tallis/AFP via Getty Images
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貪慾迷惑了心志，這原本蘊含靈光的寶石，也將變得晦 暗，帶來的負面效果可想而知。誠如我們相信寶石的力 量，它有靈性，能感知天地，甚至能傳遞訊息，唯有保 持一顆良善的心，才能將這充滿靈性且能召來好運的正 面信息傳遞下去。
ELITE CULTURE
THE SPIRIT OF JADE Its Sacred and Noble Status in Chinese Culture 千年磨礪 溫潤有方──東方的人玉情懷 Chinese by Ann Lin | Translated by Anne Scott Pictures courtesy of the National Palace Museum
清 碧玉瑗 This large jade ring from the Qing Dynasty exemplifies the original style that influenced Chinese jewelry like jade bracelets for many years to come.
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ELITE PEOPLE
CAPTURING ETERNITY Haute Joaillerie Designer Chia-Chun Chang 細繪生命熅火 ——專訪頂級珠寶設計師張嘉純 English by Angela Feng | Chinese by Ann Lin Pictures courtesy of Chia-Chun Chang
H
aute joaillerie, high jewelry, is cherished by royalty, aristocrats, celebrities, and members of the elite. Such jewelry pieces become precious heirlooms that families pass down for generations. They can also become cultural artifacts that are displayed in museums. Their value isn’t determined only by the quality and rarity of the gems, but is also ref lected in the exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship. While such pieces are widely appreciated, many forget to celebrate the mind and hands that crafted them. Meet Chia-Chun Chang, a top designer of haute joaillerie who has worked with some of the world’s most exclusive brands. She came to Europe from Taiwan more than 20 years ago, full of dreams, and has since become one of the most sought-after French jewelry designers. At home, she is a devoted wife and mother of two.
頂級珠寶（haute joaillerie），是王室貴族的定情信物、傳 家之寶，是政商名流爭相收藏的高級藝術品。它熨貼著體 溫，兀自閃耀，每一件首飾，都是世上唯一。它的珍稀不只 來自寶石的價值，更體現於精緻細膩的設計與一道道嚴謹 的工藝。一件件令人傾心的設計，出自誰人之手？在鎂光燈 無法照予光亮的地方，有著一雙雙苛求完美、打造永恆璀 璨的巧手。 其中一雙手的主人，是兩位孩子的母親，是二十多年前 懷揣著熱情與夢想，從臺灣來到歐洲追夢的學子——張嘉 純，一位資深的法國頂級珠寶設計師。 夢之彼方 成為頂級珠寶設計師，是張嘉純從一而終的夢想，但現實 中的挫折，仍讓她感嘆： 「 珠寶設計從來就不是一條很順遂 的路」。 1998 年畢業於英國皇家藝術學院後，她連日輾轉在 歐洲各個城市，參加金工珠寶創作聯展，但珠寶設計的工 作機會鮮少，生冷的現實，一次次讓她萌生放棄的念頭。然 而，她比誰都明白，珠寶設計是自己唯一的熱情所在。
PURSUING HER DREAMS It was Chang’s longtime goal to become a top haute joaillerie designer. However, her path hasn’t been easy and has been full of setbacks. “Jewelry design
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2001 年，張嘉純於巴黎的精品行銷學院畢業時，其畢 業論文獲獎，她戴上了自己設計的珠寶項圈，盛裝出席結業 式晚宴。宴會間，一位紳士盛讚其身著的珠寶，雖不知對方 來歷，但為了保握機遇，她匆忙撕下了演唱會傳單的一角，
Haute joaillerie designer Chia-Chun Chang has been in the industry for more than 20 years. Looking back on her journey of pursuing her dream career, she feels grateful for all the opportunities she’s encountered. Photography by Chang Chia Chen
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(Matt Vacca)
ELITE HOME
GET READY FOR A SIZZLING SUMMER 哈囉，夏天！ By Faithe Lo
After a year spent in lockdown, life finally seems to be returning to normal. Celebrate by livening things up in the backyard again. Kick-start your summer by planning some long-awaited gatherings to reconnect with friends and family and create new memories together. OUTDOOR DINING What is more appealing than sizzling steaks and slightly burnt sweet corn on the grill? Get ready for a summer full of savory barbecue with a high-performance grill that can cook with any combination of gas, wood, and charcoal. Stay cool in the summer heat with a mobile bar that boasts impressive refrigeration technology.
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經過一年的沉寂，隨著逐漸放鬆的社交距離限制，後 院又該忙碌起來了！也能開始計劃夏季的各種活動，與 親朋好友再度相聚，面對面重新建立情誼，多麼令人感
PICTURES COURTESY OF CANE-LINE, DOMETIC, FBC LONDON AND KALAMAZOO.
到開心！ 戶外饗宴 幾塊牛排、幾支雞翅，再加上玉米、蔬菜，一邊聽烤肉
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被旺盛爐火燒得滋滋作響、一邊聞肉汁滴到火上香氣 四溢，是夏季最引人垂涎的場景。有瓦斯、炭烤和木頭 火烤等三種火力來源的高性能烤爐是室外廚房的主心 骨，加上可以冰鎮各種冷飲、啤酒的冰箱和移動式吧 檯，讓戶外派對大升級！ 1 FBC LONDON, OUTDOOR EDESIA CHAIR, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, FBC-LONDON.COM | 2 CANE-LINE, CORE TABLE 63 IN. BY 39.4 IN., $2,935, CANE-LINE.US | 3 DOMETIC, MOBAR 550S, $4,399, HOMEBARSELECT.COM LEFT PAGE: KALAMAZOO, HYBRID FIRE GRILL, STARTING AT $15,995, KALAMAZOOGOURMET.COM
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THE POST-PANDEMIC LONG ISLAND REAL ESTATE MARKET 疫情下的長島地產市場變化 By Jane Qi
S
otheby’s International Realty is a global luxury real estate brand with over 1,000 offices and 24,000 sales associates worldwide. Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty represents Queens and Long Island with 25 offices and 900 sales associates. We spoke to Deirdre O’Connell, the chief executive officer of Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty, about the real estate market on Long Island during the pandemic.
蘇富比國際地產（Sotheby’s International Realty） 是國際知名頂級房產公司，旗下有 1,000 間辦公室以 及遍布全球的 24,000 名地產經紀人。而 Daniel Gale 蘇富比國際地產，為該公司在紐約長島和皇后區的唯一 分公司，旗下有 25 間地區辦公室和 900 名地 產經紀 人。該公司執行長 Deirdre O’Connell 女士近期接受 本刊採訪，介紹了長島地區自疫情以來的地產情況。 長島地產疫情前後變化 據 O’Connell 女士介紹，現在長島的地產情況和前幾
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年相比很特別。在 2018 年市場升溫後，2019 年初數月 中，則因買家對市場定價的反制，而出現停滯狀態。就在 2020 年疫情爆發前不久，市場已逐步恢復，價格出現變 化，這反映了市場出現許多躍躍欲試的買家。然而，隨即 疫情爆發，一切戛然而止，不過，令人慶幸的是，長島的 房產市場，在 2020 年的仲夏期間已逐漸步上軌道，到 如今，市場的熱絡景象已再次回歸。
PHOTOS BY SHUTTERSTOCK
THE MARKET BEFORE AND AFTER COVID According to Ms. O’Connell, the overall real estate market on Long Island has taken interesting turns over the past couple of years. In the early months of 2019, the market stalled a bit due to buyers pushing back on pricing after a price surge in 2018. Shortly before the pandemic began, the market had started
to open as prices began to adjust to reflect what buyers were willing to pay. Then the pandemic hit, and things came to a stop. However, the real estate market on Long Island was back on track by mid-summer 2020 and continues to be extremely strong today. O’Connell indicated that the current market is at levels that have not been seen since 2005 and 2006, particularly in the high end. “Our high end had been at a stall and has not sold at this level since that time,” she said. There were a lot of foreign investors coming in and buying the high-end estates about 10 years ago, and when that group of buyers left the marketplace, the high-end market really struggled. The five boroughs, on the other hand, are coming back a little more slowly, particularly in Manhattan, but are absolutely coming back. Great demand is being seen on the eastern end of Long Island, the secondary home market. “People are continuing to re-evaluate how they live—across the board,” O’Connell said. People who are committed to staying in Manhattan are moving to larger apartments, so they have more space. Those that have purchased something on the East End where they will spend most of their time, are also buying something smaller in Manhattan, so they can work a few days in the city and then go to their escape house out East. Across the board, people are purchasing because they’re changing how they’re living.
「 現在的情形是自 2005、06 年以來都沒見過的， 不可思議！」她表示，尤其在高端市場中，已很久沒見 到房源如此搶手。這樣的榮景，10 年前曾有過，當時有 不少國外買家來長島購入高端的房產，然而此一時彼一 時，好景並未持續太久。不過，現在長島地區的高端市 場賣得很好，相比之下，紐約市五大區的房產則恢復得 慢一些，尤其是曼哈頓地區的復原之勢更為艱難，但總 歸還是出現回復之象。 O’Connell 女士還談到，長島東部度假 屋市場升 溫。雖然曼哈頓正逐步恢復元氣，人們開始購入曼哈頓 地產，但有趣的是，買家也在考量——是要在曼哈頓買 一個大一點的公寓呢？還是依舊在曼哈頓買個小公寓， 以方便工作期間住宿，然後到長島東部來安家置業，度 過更多家庭時光？經歷這次疫情，人們的生活方式在改 變，同時在多地購買地產滿足生活、工作需求的現象日 趨顯著。 買家、賣家如何把握當前市場機緣 「 對買家來說，要做好充分準備，要準備好貸款預批信 （ 房貸預審證明），要清晰知道自己的需求，您需要一位 專業地產人士來協助 」，O’Connell女士強調，特別是 一些細節方面，因為現在是「 賣家市場 」，您一定也不想 多次出價還買不到房。 而對賣家來說，您也需要專業人士協助您將房子打 理到最佳狀態來賣個好價錢。不過，別以誇張的價格將 您的房產上市，而是選放適當價格。按過往經驗，如此 出價，結果反而會超過預期，而且可以向買家要求更好 的附帶條款。反觀那些要價過高的房子，即使在「 賣家 市場 」下，依然無人問津。
HOW TO PREPARE FOR THE CURRENT MARKET Ms. O’Connell stressed the difficulty of purchasing in the current market. Buyers have to be really well-prepared. A preapproval is a prerequisite. With demand high and low inventory, the market is extremely competitive. You need a professional to help you navigate the details of the process and ensure you are successful. She said that it would be very frustrating to go to countless properties, put in countless offers, and never secure a home. “Sellers need to be prepared as well.” O’Connell added. It’s important to work with a real estate professional who will make sure your home is staged well and priced properly. If your property is priced right, chances are you may get more than you are asking, and more importantly, you will sell it with the best terms. “While we have a great demand for homes, those that are overpriced are still sitting. Despite the
Courtesy of Daniel Gale Sotheby’s International Realty │63
tight inventory, buyers still aren’t willing to overpay,” O’Connell said. Some sellers may be a bit nervous about putting their houses on the market without another home to go to. However, there is no better time to sell in advance, as it is not often that there are so many cash buyers. If you’re able to sell with no contingencies and cash, then you’ll go into the market a stronger buyer with cash in hand. TRENDING FEATURES AND AMENITIES “Right now, on Long Island, everything is in demand, particularly if it’s finished,” O’Connell said. Buyers don’t want to have to fix up homes right now, for two reasons. First of all, interest rates are currently very low. Buyers want a home that is completely done, so they don't have to spend money on repairs. Secondly, building supplies are very expensive and hard to get. Any type of construction is now more expensive and taking much longer. Because of this, properties that are ready to go are strongly favored. Since people are still recovering from the pandemic, most are looking for a little more room in a home—whether that’s an extra bedroom or more office space. Pools are still a very popular amenity. Spacious yards and green spaces are also sought after. Buyers want to make sure they have space to relax outside and enjoy outdoor activities. “Pre-COVID, people were looking for houses as a place to sleep, and all other activities were outside the house. They’d eat out, they’d play out, and they would work out,” O’Connell said. “Now, they want to be sure that they can also do some of that at home.” After going through the pandemic, many have reconsidered what “home” means to them. More people want to actually enjoy living in their houses, rather than viewing the house as simply a place to come back to after a long day away.
由於目前買家的需求量大於房屋的供給量，一、兩 套房產 上市，有 10 個買家出價，因此競 購 現 象普遍， 買家買得 辛 苦，導 致 房 價 攀 升，而最 終 成 交 的買家， 都是出價和給予的附帶 條 款最優者：比如提 供貸款預 批（pre-approval）、 保 證 無 貸 款 風 險（mortgage contingency waived），甚至是現金等，為了能拿到房 子，買家不得不向賣家放棄很多常見要求。 不必修繕、空間更多的房子較搶手 O’Connell 女士介紹，長島的情況是所有價位或樣式的 房產皆供不應求，尤其是那些可以拎包入住、不需修繕 的房子更為搶手，這有兩個原因：一是現在房屋貸款利 率很低，貸款買房很合適，倘若房子還需裝修，還得投 入額外的金錢與時間；二是現在的材料費上漲，且不易 購得。綜上兩點，那些屋況好，且不必裝修的房子，成 了市場寵兒。 此外，受疫情衝擊，人們更嚮往大一點的居住空間， 如多一間臥室或辦公空間，這就成了更為普遍的需求。 而配有游泳池的房源，依然深受歡迎。即使未來一段時 間，生活條件逐漸復原，人們也可能不會一週 5 天都出 外上班，會有更多在家工作的考量，倘若疫情未能完全
O’Connell 女士透露，現在的確是賣房的好時機，
平息，人們也希望能有自家後院，從事一些戶外活動。
因為房源稀缺，現在賣房者可能獲得更高的出價。有賣
過 去，有 不 少人 只把 房 子當成 是 個 睡 覺 的 地方，
家怕自己在賣房後，不能以心目中的理想價位購入新房
所有其他活動，比如就餐、運動、工作等都可以在外進
產，但如今現金買家很難得，賣了房子後，手裡的現金
行，而現在，人們則希望在家也能從事這些活動，正如
更充足，會更有實力去買合適自己的房子。因此她建議
O’Connell 女士所說： 「 儘管我們會重新開始旅遊，重
「 先賣房，再買房」，加之現在利率低，的確是買房時機。
返公司，重新上餐館，但是有一點不同了，我們將比疫情
如果您打算在未來一、兩年內賣房，可以考慮現在賣房。
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前更樂於享受在家的時光！」
全世界華人 美聲唱法 聲樂大賽 2021 NTD 8 TH INT’L Chinese Vocal Competition
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