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E L I TE 時 尚 精 英

World-Class Masterpiece Comes to Auction 古典油畫大師布格羅家傳鉅作

The Qipao

初夏時尚 美妝大獎 名作拍賣 戶外家居 優尚府邸

穿越百年的東方風韻 MAY-JUNE 2019

Becoming a Light and Airy Home 「 褐石建築 」明亮輕盈之家

Feng Shui in a Modern Kitchen 中西合璧 輕古典廚房設計

On the Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療 喚醒青春密碼

2019 Pre-summer Fashion

ISSUE 38

Beautiful at Every Age

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May-June 2019 $6.99

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FOR QUESTIONS CALL: Kollette Greene 214-891-2947

Seattle • 1400 Elliott Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119 • 206-284-8400 • subzero-wolf.com /seattle Costa Mesa • 655 Anton Boulevard, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 • 657-269-5874 • subzero-wolf.com /southerncalifornia Burlingame • 1755 Rollins Road, Burlingame, CA 94010 • 650-240-3000 • subzero-wolf.com /norcal

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目錄 CONTENTS 4

Editor’ s Note 採編隨筆

10

Editor’ s Pick: Flat-Out Fabulous

12

Editor’ s Pick: Wear This on the Weekend

五月天 平底鞋 週末時尚單品

14

Beautiful at Every Age 美麗不分年齡

26

La Prairie | Illumination from Within 精緻亮白 由內而外

32

World-Class Masterpiece Comes to Auction 古典油畫大師布格羅家傳鉅作 5月蘇富比上拍

38

The Qipao: A Stylish Embodiment of Chinese Tradition and Grace 旗袍: 穿越百年的東方風韻

44

On the Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療喚醒青春密碼

47

ELITE 2019 Beauty Awards: Makeup & Fragrance 《時尚精英》2019年度最佳化妝品和最佳香水大獎

62

Roscommon House

70

Spring Outdoor Living: Top Trends Spotted at the IMM Cologne 2019 2019春夏戶外家居流行趨勢 Becoming a Light and Airy Home

花園居所 與社區對話

78

「褐石建築」明亮輕盈之家

84

East Meets West: Feng Shui in a Modern Kitchen 中西合璧 輕古典廚房設計

86

Free Spirit Meets Practical Ingenuity 千仞崗上放飛心靈 特柳賴德鋼索棧道

90

Wild Ginger Denny Triangle 尋「味」西雅圖 邂逅東南亞

COVER

Photographer: Ronald Ji Model: Kuynh Chi at Fenton Model Management Stylist: Marisa Ellison Makeup: Jonathan Wu Hair: Koji Ichikawa

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量身修护

保湿

补水

我们的肌肤时常都在变化着,而且肌肤的特点也各有不同。由 世界著名的美容开拓专家Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh,率先研发出 针对不同肌肤的特点,将以上3种获奖护肤精华混合后使用,可 令肌肤增添无暇的透润光彩。3种精华也可单独使用。 为亮润紧实饱满的肌肤,及时深层的保湿补水和快速有效的抵 抗环境的污染尤为重要。将玫瑰特效活妍精露深層滋润精华与 含抗氧化深层滋養的玫瑰果油,一起来混合富含透明質酸的高 效保湿除纹精华一起使用后,可令肌肤瞬间增添无限的饱满紧 实水亮的光润质感。

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抗衰

亮白

加入几滴抗老化的英雄-臻颜极致精萃混合使用时,其 内含95%的青春活性因子-白藜蘆醇和三種抗衰老肽, 可瞬间在肌肤表皮形成强大的保护层。其中礦物光澤助 推劑和抗污染薄膜可有效的抵抗因环境污染对肌肤造成 的伤害。 这款荣获专利的稳定性高的美白维他命C粉霜,与任何 精华混合使用后,不仅可以快速提亮肌肤,同时防止色 素沉着,可有效的恢复肌肤的亮透润白质感。 可在专卖店或网上购买drsebagh.com

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序 EDITOR’S NOTE

看東看西 十幾年前,身在北京的我,一心向學西方。「 出國嗎?一定要帶 一件旗袍。在海外,中式最驚豔 」。身邊的阿姨這樣叮嚀。 抵達歐洲,在前往學校的路上,看著我一臉的興奮和嚮往,接機 的學姐淡然地說, 「 看過世界,你可能更愛東方之美。」 時光流轉,從北京到歐洲,從歐洲來美國已近十年,一路上直面 東西美學和設計的差異,心中常想「 生活中若多一些中西合璧的 設計,該有多好。」 然而,東方設計貴在氣韻,西方注重形式和功能。二者融合,何 以實現呢? 本期《時尚精英》,帶您領略一個融會東方之韻和西方之形的典 型設計之美。它完美地演繹了「 中西合璧 」,已流轉近百年,至 今仍讓東西方女性心動不已。它,就是旗袍。 同時,本期家居帶您窺探現代住宅中的東方元素。澳洲的花園之 家,汲取日本「 侘寂 」美學,欣然面對粗糙質樸的混凝土材質, 安於「 不完美 」,為您展現一位西人設計師心中的「 侘寂 」之 美。紐約長島華裔設計師張榮珊,巧妙運用古銅錢造型的屏風, 和中國山水圖形的櫥櫃背牆,打造出「 風水 」主題的現代廚房。 「 兩腳踏中西文化,一心評宇宙文章。」英文寫作和國學造詣都 頗深的林語堂先生曾這樣自評。面對東西文化,先生內心深處似 乎有一個「 圓 」點,有一種從容,一種安然。 願每一位讀者, 「 看東看西 」,融會貫通,一派天然。

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1231 Comstock Street | Santa Clara | 408.727.3772 | Since 1957 easternfurniture.com | braccisofas.com

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獨家房源

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300 East 33rd Street, 4C 2 臥 | 2 衛浴 JoAnne Kao | Licensed Real Estate Salesperson Craig M. Dix | Sr. Sales Executive, Associate R. E. Broker

$1,430,000 康斗產權公寓 646.677.9360 646.677.1038

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815 Park Avenue, Private Duplex 7/8C 5 臥 | 4.5 衛浴 Reba Miller | Sr. Sales Executive, Associate R. E. Broker

$8,400,000 合作公寓 646.677.1067

2

605 Park Avenue, 10B 2 臥 | 2 衛浴 Reba Miller | Sr. Sales Executive, Associate R. E. Broker

$1,585,000 合作公寓 646.677.1067

5

303 East 77th Street, 10A 3 臥 | 3 衛浴 Christine Fields | Licensed Real Estate Salesperson Sheila Starr | Sales Executive, Associate R.E. Broker

$2,575,000 康斗產權公寓 646.677.1042 646.677.1023

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400 East 51st Street, 27A 3 臥 | 3 衛浴 Helga Brauer | Licensed Real Estate Salesperson Craig M. Dix | Sr. Sales Executive, Associate R. E. Broker A. Laurance. Kaiser | Sr. Sales Executive, Associate R. E. Broker

$3,970,000 康斗產權公寓 646.677.1056 646.677.1038 646.677.1039

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44 East 67th Street, 6D 1 臥 | 1 衛浴 Eric Janssen | Licensed Real Estate Salesperson

$1,615,000 康斗產權公寓 646.677.1050

212.710.1900 | CONTACT@BHHSNYP.COM 590 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK, NEW YORK @bhhsnewyork

bhhsnyproperties.com Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of HomeServices of America, Inc.® Equal Housing Opportunity.

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PUBLISHER Ellen Wang EDITOR IN CHIEF Jennifer Zhang VICE PUBLISHER SEATTLE Echo Liu EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD CHAIR Dana Cheng, Ph.D. SALES DIRECTOR Jo Yang EVENT AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Joy Ye ART DIRECTOR Ruibo Kang PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Chen Fu SENIOR DESIGNERS Karen Tang, Hsinyu Lo, Ingrid Longauerová, Kitty Mao DESIGNERS Benson Xiao, Tan Zhao, Rachel Lu SPECIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS Ronald Ji, Banny Zhang CORRESPONDENTS Pia-Maria Norris, Irene Luo, Astrid Wang, Ada Tian, Yi-Chun Lin, Jenny Zhi, Angela Feng, Cynthia Sun, Erin Wang TRANSLATOR Jessica Lin COPY EDITORS Connie Phillips, Huixuan Yang FASHION EDITOR Joy Ye BEAUTY EDITOR Pia-Maria Norris PEOPLE EDITOR Irene Luo ART & CULTURE EDITOR Jennifer Zhang BUSINESS EDITOR Hong Wang HOME EDITOR Fenzhi Zhang FOOD & DINING EDITOR Channaly Philipp

Address 229 W 28th Street, 6FL, New York, NY 10001 Phone 646-862-9930 Email editor@elite-magazine.com advertising@elite-magazine.com subscription@elite-magazine.com www.elite-magazine.com San Francisco Ke Bian 510-299-4392

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Los Angeles Yan Lieser 818-836-2937

Boston Timothy Pi 617-388-1688

San Francisco

Seattle Echo Liu Ben Ruan 425-877-5121 425-449-3620

Boston

Seattle

2019/5/3 上午10:52


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GUCCI, WOMEN'S JORDAAN EMBROIDERED LEATHER LOAFERS, $890, BLOOMINGDALES.COM

EDITOR’S PICK

FL AT-OUT

FABULOUS STUART WEITZMAN, WOMEN'S SLIPKNOT LOAFERS, $425, BLOOMINGDALES.COM

By Erin Wang

As May rolls around, choose a classic flat with cute buckles or an embroidery design for both comfort and style.

NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD, BEYA TEXTURED-LEATHER POINTTOE FLATS, $495, NET-A-PORTER.COM

GUCCI, WOMEN'S JORDAAN LEATHER LOAFERS, $730, BLOOMINGDALES.COM

CHLOÉ, LAUREN SCALLOPED LEATHER BALLET FLATS, $495, NET-A-PORTER.COM

PICTURES COURTESY OF SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, NET-A-PORTER, AND BLOOMINGDALE’S.

AQUAZZURA, ZEN PATENT LEATHER POINT-TOE FLATS, $695, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM

Th

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佔地56英畝的水景地段,Gar vies Point是北岸最具活力的新社區。

Beacon提供獨特的長島生活方式,具有167個風景如畫般的的一臥室,二臥室和 三臥室公寓, 距曼哈頓僅一小時。售價70萬美元起。

TheBeaconAtGarviesPoint.com · 516.882.6269 · 49 Herb Hill Road, Glen Cove, NY The complete terms are in an Offering Plan available from Sponsor. File No. CD17-0068. Artist Rendering.

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EDITOR’S PICK

WEAR THIS ON THE WEEKEND By Erin Wang

Spring has sprung! Going on a weekend trip? Take these cute and casual staples with you to stay stylish yet comfortable.

SEE BY CHLOÉ, HOPPER SMALL OVERSIZED BUCKLE LEATHER CROSSBODY, $375, BLOOMINGDALES.COM

MODERN VICE, BOWTIE SLIDE IN WHITE, $298, MODERNVICE.COM

VALENTINO, VALENTINO GARAVANI LOCK SMALL LEATHER SHOULDER BAG, $2,145, NET-A-PORTER.COM

CHLOÉ, ROY MINI EMBROIDERED TEXTURED-LEATHER BUCKET BAG, $1,750, NET-A-PORTER.COM

PICTURES COURTESY OF MODERN VICE, NET-A-PORTER, AND BLOOMINGDALE’S.

MODERN VICE, JETT CLASSIC BOOTS IN BLACK, $398, MODERNVICE.COM

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Beautiful

at Every Age

Beauty has no age. It is found in the eye of the beholder. Behind the physical features are the innate qualities that constitute beauty—confidence, elegance, and modesty.

Beauty begins the moment you decide to be yourself. " — Coco Chanel

「 美麗,從決定做自己的那一刻開始。」 —— 可可·香奈兒

Photographer: Ronald Ji Model: Kuynh Chi at Fenton Model Management Makeup: Jonathan Wu Hair: Koji Ichikawa Stylist: Marisa Ellison Location: Bryant Park, New York

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DAY LOOK

2

Blossom by day and dazzle by night

TOP AND SHORTS BY ADEAM PEARL NECKLACE, STUD EARRINGS, AND RING BY MIKIMOTO HANDBAG BY MARK CROSS HAT BY CLYDE

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WHITE SOUTH SEA CULTURED PEARL RING 11MM PEARL x 18K WG x DIAMONDS $5,700/ MIKIMOTO

GIANNA OVAL BOX $2,595/ MARK CROSS

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NIGHT LOOK

FULL LOOK, SHOES AND EARRINGS BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

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3

Elegant and Determined Life is like a glistening gemstone

MOSAIC ETERNITY RING $2,750/ ERA JEWELRY DESIGNS

MOSAIC FLOW EARRINGS $3,575/ ERA JEWELRY DESIGNS

DAY LOOK DRESS, BELT, BOOTS BY ALTUZARRA EARRINGS AND RINGS BY ERA JEWELRY DESIGNS

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NIGHT LOOK

FULL LOOK, SHOES BY MAX MARA EARRINGS, GOLD BRAND RINGS AND GOLD FLOWER RING BY QUEENIE CAO JEWELRY

GOLD FLOWER RING PEARL x STERLING SILVER PLATED WITH 24K GOLD $330 / QUEENIE CAO JEWELRY

CALF LEATHER HEELS WITH RUFFLE DETAIL $725/ MAX MARA │19

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4

Fearless and fabulous Beauty and intelligence combined

DAY LOOK BUTTON DOWN TOP, MOCK NECK SHIRT AND SKIRT BY BOSS HEELS BY MAX MARA EARRINGS BY MARMARI NECKLACE BY ONIRIKKA (LEFT) RING BY ERA JEWELRY DESIGNS (RIGHT) RING BY QUEENIE CAO JEWELRY

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SEVEN BRICK BRIGADE RING WHITE SAPPHIRE x 14K ROSE GOLD $781/ ERA JEWELRY

EAST-WEST LOLITA IN CROCODILE $3,750/ NANCY GONZALEZ

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FLOWY TOP AND HIGH WAISTED PANTS BY BRANDON MAXWELL BRACELET AND RINGS BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS HEELS BY RENE CAOVILLA

NIGHT LOOK

BOUTON D'OR BRACELET PINK GOLD x WHITE GOLD x DIAMONDS, MEDIUM MODE $ 53,000/ VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

PERLÉE COULEURS BETWEEN THE FINGER RING PING GOLD x CARNELIAN x DIAMONDS $7,050/ VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

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DAY LOOK

50

is the new 40 Age like fine wine

FULL LOOK BY MAX MARA GLOVES BY AMATO SUNGLASSES BY THIERRY LASRY STOCKINGS SABRINA BY GUNZE INTERNATIONAL USA INC

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SUNGLASSES IN ACETATE & METAL, LYTCHY $455/ THIERRY LASRY

CALF LEATHER HEELS WITH RUFFLE DETAIL $725/ MAX MARA

LAMBSKIN ELBOW LENGTH MATINEE $312 / AMATO NEW YORK

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NIGHT LOOK

DRESS BY ROLAND MOURET EARRINGS, RING AND BRACELET BY VAN CLEEF AND APPELS SANDAL BY RENE CAOVILLA

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BOUTON D'OR EARRINGS YELLOW GOLD x ONYX x CHRYSOPRASE x DIAMONDS $29,300 / VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

PERLÉE COULEURS BETWEEN THE FINGER RING YELLOW GOLD x MALACHITE x DIAMONDS $7,400 / VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

BOUTON D'OR BRACELET YELLOW GOLD x ONYX x CHRYSOPRASE x DIAMONDS MEDIUM MODEL / VAN CLEEF AND ARPELS

THE ELLABRITA SANDAL $1,180/ RENE CAOVILLA

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La Prairie’s revolutionary White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire and White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion dramatically reduce hyperpigmentation and skin tone unevenness, while also firming the skin.

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LA PRAIRIE Illumination from Within

萊珀妮——精緻亮白 由內而外 English text by Irene Luo Chinese text by Christina Wang Pictures Courtesy of La Prairie

ADVERTORIAL

F

or many Asians, the first signs of aging are skin discoloration and age spots. Like the shadowy patches of the moon that obscure its light, age spots dim the face, dulling the luminosity of youth. After 15 years of research into active ingredients to combat discoloration and age spots, the Swissbased luxury skin care brand La Prairie brought to market the ingredient Lumidose, introduced in 2017 as a cornerstone of the revolutionary White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire. Today, when used together with the timeless White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion, the serum and cream dramatically reduce hyperpigmentation and unevenness in your skin tone, returning youthful luminosity to your complexion. The two products also smooth and firm your skin, leaving your face feeling soft and supple. In an exclusive interview with Elite Lifestyle Magazine, La Prairie’s director of innovation, Dr. Daniel Stangl, shared the magic behind these potent formulas and how they restore an even skin tone and a

對於很多亞洲人來說,皮膚初老的表現,通常是色斑和 暗沉。就像不光滑的月球表面,皮膚會逐漸失去昔日的光 澤,變得暗淡、沒有生機。來自瑞士的高端護膚品牌「 萊 珀妮 」,致力於尋找對抗色斑和皮膚暗沉的活性成分, 經過十五年的不懈探索,終於在2017年成功向市場推出 了一種叫做「Lumidose」的成分。該成分是鑽白魚子時 空聚光緊膚霜(White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire) 的核心成分。這款緊膚霜和經典的鑽白魚子時空聚光精 華同時使用,能夠明顯減少色素沉著,改善膚色不勻,重 現年輕光澤,令皮膚更加緊緻絲滑,柔軟豐盈。 近日,萊珀妮品牌的創新總監 Daniel Stangl 博士 接受了 《時尚精英》雜誌的獨家專訪,與讀者分享這些革 新產品的獨特配方,改善膚質的功效原理,以及 Stangl 博士對於保養皮膚的珍貴建議。 皮膚亮白的祕密 隨著年齡增長,皮膚當中的色素會自然產生,這些紅色、 褐色、黃色、灰色的斑點,隨著時間而逐漸沉積,使面部 皮膚逐漸暗啞,失去光澤,粗糙不平,甚至產生皺紋,同 時伴隨著骨膠原的流失。

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youthful glow. He also offered valuable advice on how to nourish and protect our skin.

褐色斑點主要出現在臉部和手部,因為這兩個部位 較容易暴露在陽光之下。當皮膚受到陽光中紫外線的照 射,或者手機、電腦的輻射,皮膚細胞會受到損傷,特別

THE SCIENCE BEHIND SKIN LUMINOSITY As we age, the naturally occurring pigments in the skin—brown, red, yellow, and gray—become more pronounced over time. Too much color is concentrated in the face and dulls the complexion. At the same time, less light is reflected as our skin becomes more uneven and wrinkled, and its collagen network loses density and structure. Brown age spots appear on our faces and hands because these are the parts of our bodies that are most frequently exposed to the sun. When our skin is exposed to external stress factors like UV rays from the sun or infrared rays and blue light from computers and phones, it causes damage to the skin cells, especially the ones that produce melanin, the pigments in our skin. Damaged and out of control, these melanin-producing cells synthesize far too much melanin, creating large concentrations of pigments that become age spots. To find the most effective solution to age spots and discoloration, the scientists at La Prairie screened over 50,000 active ingredients. Their tireless search was rewarded with an extraordinarily potent ingredient called Lumidose, which works by inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin. Whereas other skin care companies typically test anti-age-spot formulas on mushroom tyrosinase, Dr. Stangl and his team decided they had to test Lumidose on human tyrosinase to be absolutely sure of its efficacy. After several years of developing human tyrosinase and conducting extensive tests, they found

是產生黑色素的細胞,會猛然加快黑色素的生成,最終 導致色斑的沉積。 為了尋找最有效解決色斑的方法,萊珀妮的科學家 團隊分析了超過五萬種活性成分。他們不懈地探索帶來 了回報,終於「Lumidose」這一護膚成分誕生了。黑色素 的合成過程中,需要一種關鍵成分的參與——酪胺酸酶 (Tyrosinase),而 Lumidose 能夠抑制酪胺酸酶,從而 有效減少黑色素的產生。很多化妝品公司用蘑菇酪氨酸 酶進行產品測試,而萊珀妮的研發團隊為了保證產品的 有效性,直接在人類酪氨酸酶中進行測試。經過多年的 實驗,他們發現 Lumidose 的美白功效超過了維生素 C、 氫醌( 對苯二酚)、麴酸等常見的美白成分。 「 我們看到 Lumidose大量減少了褐色斑點的密度。」 Stangl 博士說。 作為鑽白魚子系列的新成員,這款緊膚霜中加入了 稀有的黃金魚子緊實精華,也是這一系列的主打成分。 它能夠促進骨膠原的產生,緊緻和拉提皮膚,在撫平皺 紋的同時,恢復肌膚的光澤。 Stangl 博士說,人們常常有一個誤區,就是以為用 越多產品越好。然而,並不是產品越多,皮膚越好,也 不是產品當中有效成分濃度越高越好。重要的不是產品 當中有多少有效成分,而是皮膚吸收了多少有效成分。 萊珀妮的產品中,都有促進吸收的輔助成分。例如,在 鑽白魚子時空聚光緊膚霜中,有一種促進吸收的智慧鑽 白微晶體,能夠讓美白成分「 甘草黃酮 」更有效地抵達 皮膚深層。 如果把鑽白魚子時空聚光精華和鑽白魚子時空聚光 緊膚霜兩種產品疊加使用,不僅能夠對抗色斑產生,還 能抵禦皮膚衰老的其他問題,比如骨膠原流失導致的皮 膚暗黃、發炎泛紅、粉塵汙染帶來的灰暗膚色等問題。實 驗表明,連續使用精華和緊膚霜一個月後,膚色得到明 顯改善;兩個月後,皮膚呈現由內而外的光彩。

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White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire is a lavish, firming face cream infused with a potent brightening ingredient called Lumidose that dispels discoloration and age spots.

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As part of its commitment to uniting science and art, La Prairie collaborated with South Korean artist Chul Hyun Ahn, who created a series of light sculptures that explore luminosity, color, and reflection.

that Lumidose was more effective than any other currently known brightening ingredients, such as Vitamin C, hydroquinone, and kojic acid, while still being safe. “What we have seen is a dramatic decrease in the intensity of the brown color of the age spot,” Dr. Stangl says. As part of the White Caviar Collection, the cream also contains rare Golden Caviar extract, the collection’s signature ingredient, which stimulates collagen production to firm and lift the skin. As wrinkles diminish, more light is reflected and luminosity returns. A common misconception people have, Dr. Stangl says, is that more is better. Just as using more products does not necessarily mean you’ll have better skin, a product with higher percentages of active ingredients is not necessarily more effective. “It’s not important how much is in the formula. It’s important how much of that ingredient is in the viable skin—that means how much is penetrating,” Dr. Stangl says. Thus, La Prairie products are always formulated in ways that promote the penetration of active ingredients into the skin. For instance, in White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire, powerful brightening actives like glabridin penetrate the skin through a special delivery system called Smart Crystal White. When used together, the ingredients in White Caviar Illuminating Pearl Infusion and White Caviar Crème Extraordinaire combat not just brown age spots but also the other forms of chromatic disturbances, namely, yellowing of the complexion from collagen degradation, redness from inf lammation, and grayness from the accumulation of dust and pollution plus the oxidation of particulate matter on the skin. Studies have shown that overall complexion visibly improves after one month of using these two products, and after two months, your skin will glow from within.

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ADVERTORIAL

PROTECTION AND PREVENTION For those wondering how to properly take care of their skin, Dr. Stangl has three simple pieces of advice. First, it’s important to cleanse the face gently. “The skin is very fragile, vulnerable. You can easily damage your skin and your skin barrier,” Dr. Stangl says. “My second piece of advice would be to take care of hydration of the skin. So moisturize your skin, because if the skin is not properly moisturized, all the skin functions—everything just moves downhill. And the third, probably the most important aspect, is prevention, protection.” You should wear sunscreen whenever you will be in the sun for more than a short period of time, and not just in summer, but also in winter. This is especially true when you’re surrounded by snow or you’re at high altitudes, because the UV light is especially intense. Dr. Stangl experienced firsthand the long-term results of not protecting the skin. “Since I was a boy, I was out in the mountains all the time, you know, also in the snow, skiing and so on. And at that time, the highest SPF that we had as a cream was an SPF 6. That doesn’t work at all. So now I see the results on my skin,” Dr. Stangl says. “You don’t see it for maybe 10 or 20 years, but at some point, you will see that you didn’t take care of your skin.” That’s why almost all La Prairie products have both repairing and protective ingredients, such as SPF or antioxidants that bolster the skin’s natural defense mechanisms, defending cells from damage caused by free radicals generated by pollution, sunlight, and other factors. It’s harder to repair than to prevent, which is why it’s important to always protect skin from external stress factors. Dr. Stangl recommends the brand’s Cellular Swiss UV Protection Veil SPF 50—a dailymoisturizing broad spectrum that protects against the elements and pollution as well as the harmful rays

of the sun. It also utilizes the brand’s Smart Crystal White Technology. “I really feel that we should take care of our skin and listen to our skin,” Dr. Stangl says. “You only have one.”

保護皮膚的方法 Stangl博士提 供三個皮 膚 護 理 建 議 給愛美人士:第一 步,輕柔地清潔皮膚非常重要,因為皮膚表層很脆弱, 如果清潔不當,容易損傷皮膚保護層。第二步,注意保 溼,讓肌膚保持充足的水分,否則皮膚的各種功能都會 下降。第三步,也是最關鍵的,要注意保護,皮膚如果暴 露在陽光下,就要使用防晒產品。不管夏天、冬天,都要 注意防晒。特別是在雪地和海拔高的地方,這些場所往 往紫外線更強。 Stangl 博士以他親身的經驗,體會到防晒的重要 性。 「 我小時候經常上山滑雪,用的防晒霜只有 SPF 6, 根本起不到防晒的作用。可能短時間內看不出區別,但 是隨著時間的積累,你就會發現不注重防晒帶來的後 果。」 正因如此,萊珀妮的產品大多含有修復和防護的功 能。防晒和隔離的成分,更夠讓皮膚增加抵禦破壞的能 力,隔絕陽光和空氣汙染的接觸。皮膚的修復比防護更 不容易,所以,我們平時要非常注重保護皮膚不受外界 刺激。Stangl 博士為大家推薦瑞士輕盈防晒乳液 SPF 50,它同樣含有智慧鑽白微晶體,是一款日常保濕的廣 譜防晒霜,有效阻擋空氣污染物和陽光中的有害射線。 Stangl 博士說, 「 我們應該用心地護理皮膚,畢竟 青春歲月只有一次。」

Cellular Swiss UV Protection Veil SPF 50 is a daily-moisturizing broad spectrum that protects against the elements and pollution as well as the harmful rays of the sun.

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ELITE ART

World-Class Masterpiece Comes to Auction

William Bouguereau’s La Jeunesse de Bacchus to be sold by Sotheby’s 古典油畫大師布格羅家傳鉅作 5月蘇富比上拍 English text by Kara Lysandra Ross Chinese text translated by Shu Yuan Pictures Courtesy of Sotheby’s

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這世上沒有幾件油畫鉅作能和威廉.布格羅(William Bouguereau) 的《青 年 巴 庫 斯》(La Jeunesse de Bacchus) 相 媲 美。 論 同 等 重 要 的 繪 畫, 倫 勃 朗 的 《夜 巡》(Night Watch) 是 一 件, 波 提 切 利 的《春》 (Primavera)是又一件。為了親睹這樣的畫作,人們從 世界各地來到博物館參訪;它們實在寥寥可數,拿出來 拍賣、供人購藏,就更罕見了,幾乎聞所未聞。 由布格羅後代保存至今的畫作《青年巴庫斯》( 譯 註:巴庫斯為古羅馬神話中的酒神 ),將於5月14日在蘇 富比紐約進行拍賣。雖然布格羅的作品通常是放在19世 紀繪畫作品拍賣中,但此畫卻將於5月3日在印象派及現 代藝術品拍賣預展上登場,地點是新近擴建翻新的紐約 蘇富比藝廊。 的確,這件作品被納入了蘇富比拍賣的重頭戲—— 印象派及現代藝術晚場拍賣。這是布格羅畫作首次亮相 蘇富比晚拍,表明大師的地位及這件畫作的重要性在今 世獲得了認可。此畫估價在2,500萬到3,500萬美元之 間,不過事實上,這種性質的作品是無價之寶,是全人 類的共同財富。希望它能被一家全球最大、最負盛名的 博物館購藏。 威廉.布格羅(1825–1905)是19世紀法國最受歡 迎的藝術家,事實上,他現已躋身有史以來最受歡迎藝 術家之列。在人生最後三十年裡,布格羅在整個歐洲和 美國聲名遠播。當時法國藝術家可獲得的所有獎項和榮 譽,他全都贏得過;另一方面,他為正義與平等不懈發 聲,傾注大量時間幫助貧苦人,也讓他享有盛譽。 上世紀50年代的時候,這位藝術家幾乎已被世人 遺忘。到70年代後期,公眾輿論開始發生變化,紐約大 都會藝術博物館遂於1980年4月在永久陳列中掛出了三 幅布格羅畫作。正如希爾頓.克萊默(Hilton Kramer) 在《紐約時報》專文中所說,自從布格羅被藝壇冷落,這 還是第一次。 到1984年, 首 次 布 格 羅 大 型 回 顧 展 在 法 國 和 北 美 進 行 了 巡 展 —— 從 巴 黎 的 小 皇 宮 美 術 館(Musée du Petit-Palais) 到 蒙 特 利 爾 美 術 博 物 館(Montreal Museum of Fine Arts),又於次年來到美國康州哈特 福德的沃茲沃思學會美術館(Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art)。《青年巴庫斯》一作參加了這次展 覽,這是自1905年布格羅謝世以來,該作品首次離開他 的畫室。 布格羅在世時,這件作品先是在1884年的巴黎沙龍 亮相,隨後在倫敦和安特衛普展出至1885年;隨後,又 在1889年巴黎世界博覽會上展出。

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

T

here are a few rare major masterpieces in this world that are equal to William Bouguereau’s La Jeunesse de Bacchus (Youth of Bacchus). Of equal significance would be Rembrandt’s Night Watch or Botticelli’s Primavera. People travel from all over the world to view paintings like this in a museum, and they are rare and far between. Even rarer is for such a painting to come to auction and be available for sale. It is almost unheard of. La Jeunesse de Bacchus, which is still owned by Bouguereau’s descendants, will come to auction at Sotheby’s New York on May 14. Although normally the artist’s works are included in the sales of the most important works from the 19th century, La Jeunesse de Bacchus will be included in Sotheby’s Impressionist & Modern Art exhibitions starting May 3 in the newly expanded and renovated New York galleries. In fact, this work is to be included in the Impressionist & Modern Art Evening Sale. Its presence in this sale marks the first time that a work by Bouguereau is being presented in Sotheby’s marquee evening auctions, designating the importance the artist has attained in the 21st century and the significance of this specific work. The work is estimated at $25 million to $35 million, but in truth, a work of this nature is priceless and belongs to all of humanity. Hopefully, it will be acquired by one of the world’s largest and most prestigious museums. William Bouguereau (1825–1905), the most popular artist in all of 19th-century France, is indeed becoming one of the most popular artists of all time. By the final three decades of his life, Bouguereau’s fame extended across all of Europe and America. Winning every possible award and accolade available to a French artist at the time, he was also a known fighter for justice and equality, donating considerable amounts of time to help the poor and the misfortunate. The artist was all but forgotten by the 1950s. By the late 1970s, public opinion began to change, and The Metropolitan Museum of Art put its three

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Left: A detail of hands from La Jeunesse de Bacchus (Youth of Bacchus), 1884, by William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Oil on canvas, 20 feet by 11 feet. Private collection. Right: A detail from La Jeunesse de Bacchus (Youth of Bacchus), 1884, by William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Oil on canvas, 20 feet by 11 feet. Private collection.

Bouguereau paintings on display in April of 1980, on permanent exhibition, for the first time since the artist had gone out of fashion, as Hilton Kramer reported in The New York Times. By 1984, there was the first major retrospective of the artist’s works, which traveled from the Musée du Petit-Palais in Paris to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and finally to the Wadsworth Atheneum in Hartford, Connecticut, in 1985. La Jeunesse de Bacchus was included in this exhibition, and it has been the only time this specific work has left Bouguereau’s studio since his death in 1905. During Bouguereau’s life, the work was unveiled at the Paris Salon of 1884, followed by exhibitions in London and Antwerp through 1885. The work then accompanied the Paris Exposition Universelle in 1889. This immense painting measures 20 feet in length and is 11 feet high, featuring 20 figures all at life

這幅畫作尺幅巨大,寬逾6米,高約3.4米,20個 人物全為真人大小。要以富有韻律的流暢形式將這些人 物協調在一張畫中,其複雜程度和高超技巧令人驚歎。 人物交疊的手臂、錯落的腿足,前縮透視法令人難以置 信的精確度,以及對主題富有想像力的詮釋,最終結構 成這幅皇皇鉅作。 關於威廉‧布格羅 眾所周知,布格羅畫作的主題主要有四類,即神話、宗 教、農民和肖像畫。神話題材和丘比特題材繪畫被稱作 他的「 幻想畫 」。他對這類作品的興趣,很可能源於他 在龐斯(Pons)天主教學院的學習經歷,在那裡,他研 習了古代歷史、拉丁文和古希臘羅馬神話。布格羅1850 年贏得羅馬大獎之後,在其繪畫生涯的早期,去羅馬待 了一段時間,對神話的興趣就更濃了。 布格羅完成這件作品前後花了三年。畫作的主題是 青年巴庫斯,然而這只是其表面。事實上,這是一幅寓 意畫,寓示了人類獲得喜樂的能力——更根本上,是對 生活、自然和美的熱愛,這一切都是藝術家所珍視的。

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Left: A detail, Cupid, from La Jeunesse de Bacchus (Youth of Bacchus), 1884, by William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Oil on canvas, 20 feet by 11 feet. Private collection. Right: A detail of feet from La Jeunesse de Bacchus (Youth of Bacchus), 1884, by William-Adolphe Bouguereau. Oil on canvas, 20 feet by 11 feet. Private collection.

size. The complexity and skill required to harmonize this number of figures in a fluid and melodic fashion is nothing short of astounding. Intertwining hands, overlapping feet, incredible precision in foreshortening, and an imaginative interpretation of the subject matter result in an awe-inspiring work.

蘇 富 比 美 洲 區 主 席 本 傑 明. 多 勒(Benjamin Doller)在新聞稿中說: 「 我清楚地記得,當我1985年首次在沃茲沃思學會 美術館看到《青年巴庫斯》時,我對作品紀念碑般的宏大 和真人等身的人物感到震驚。這幅畫作不僅是巨大的尺 幅令我震驚,人物的栩栩如生也讓我非常著迷。技巧非 常出色,每個人物似乎都有自己獨特的個性。

ABOUT WILLIAM BOUGUEREAU Bouguereau was known to have painted four main types of paintings that were most prevalent throughout his body of work, namely, his my thological works, religious works, works featuring peasants, and finally, portraits. Works of mythological subject matter and those featuring cupids were known as his “fancies.” The origins of his interest in this type of work most likely stemmed from his time at the Catholic college in Pons, where he studied ancient history and Latin and Greek mythology. This was later reinforced by his time in Rome, early in his career, after winning the Prix de Rome in 1850.

「 當我在布格羅的畫室中再看到這幅畫,看到它懸 掛在當初繪製它的那面牆上,那是一種激動人心的體 驗。畫面中央那一組舞蹈人物,再度如磁石般吸引了我 的視線。事實上,有那麼一瞬間,我感覺他們彷彿是在 畫面前方『 跳舞 』,好像這幅畫是三維立體的一般。 「 當你親眼目睹這幅傑作的巨大尺寸和技法之輝 煌,你會意識到,這是19世紀最偉大的畫作之一。假如 回到1985年,這幅畫能現身藝術市場會是我的唯一夢 想。這是真正獨一無二的機會,買家將購得同類作品中 最後可購藏、也是最傑出的一件作品。」 這幅作品進入拍賣的時機再合適不過了。布格羅 的另一個大型回顧展眼下正在巡展中,展覽題為「 布格 羅與美洲 」(Bouguereau & America),共有45件展

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Bouguereau painted this work over the course of three years. The subject of La Jeunesse de Bacchus is that of a young Bacchus. However, this is only the superficial subject of the work. In truth, it is an allegorical painting of the human capacity for joy and ultimately love of life, nature, and beauty, all of which the artist held dear. Benjamin Doller, chairman of Sotheby’s Americas, said in a press release: “I remember so clearly when I first saw La Jeunesse de Bacchus at The Wadsworth Atheneum in 1985 that I was struck by the monumentality of the work and the life-size scale of the figures. Not only was I impressed by the size of this great painting, but I was so enamored with the lifelike quality of the figures. Technically brilliant, each figure seemed to have its own unique personality. Seeing the painting in Bouguereau’s studio, hanging on the very wall where he painted, it was an emotional experience for me. I was attracted once again by the magnetic presence of the central group of dancing figures. Indeed, for a few seconds, I felt they were dancing ‘in front’ of the picture, as if the painting were three-dimensional. When you see the true majestic scale and technical brilliance of this masterpiece, you realize this is one of the greatest pictures painted in the 19th century. Its appearance on the market, something I would have only dreamed of back in 1985, will present a truly singular opportunity to acquire a work that is the last and greatest of its kind.” The timing of this work’s surfacing to auction could not be more appropriate. There is currently another major exhibition of the artist’s work that will travel. The show is titled Bouguereau & America and includes over 45 works by the artist. The exhibition is currently on view at the Milwaukee Art Museum until May 12 and is scheduled to travel to the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art from June 22 to Sept. 22, 2019. Finally, the show is scheduled at the San Diego Museum of Art, where it will be on view from Nov. 9, 2019, to March 15, 2020. The work La Jeunesse de Bacchus has also just been featured in a new publication titled William

Bouguereau: The Essential Works written by myself and the co-author of the William Bouguereau Catalogue Raisonné, Frederick C. Ross. All students, scholars, and art enthusiasts are encouraged to come to Sotheby’s to view this masterpiece while it is on public display. Depending on who purchases the work, it could be the only time it will be available for public viewing in the foreseeable future. About the author: Kara Lysandra Ross, the chief operating officer for the Art Renewal Center (ArtRenewal.org), is an expert in 19th-century European painting.

品參展。該展覽正在美國威斯康星州密爾沃基藝術博 物館(Milwaukee Art Museum)展出,展期至5月12 日;隨後,6月22日至9月22日,將在田納西州孟菲斯 的布魯克斯藝術博物館(Brooks Museum of Art)展 出;最後一站是加州聖地亞哥藝術博物館( San Diego Museum of Art),將從11月9日展出到明年3月15日。 《青年巴庫斯》一畫也被收入新近出版的《威廉. 布 格 羅 畫 集》(William Bouguereau: The Essential Works)中,該書由筆者和《威廉.布格羅作品全集》 (William Bouguereau Catalogue Raisonné)的合編 者弗雷德里克�羅斯(Frederick C. Ross)共同編著。 在這件作品公開展出之際,所有藝術學生、學者和 藝術愛好者都不要錯過來蘇富比觀賞這件傑作的機會。 這或許是未來一段時間內公眾可以觀看的唯一機會,還 取決於作品花落誰家。 作 者 簡 介: 卡 拉. 萊 桑 德 拉. 羅 斯(Kara Lysandra Ross)現任藝術復興中心(Art Renewal Center,簡 稱ARC)的首席運營官。

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ELITE CULTURE

A Stylish Embodiment of Chinese Tradition and Grace 旗袍 穿越百年的東方風韻 English text translated by Jenny Zhi | Chinese text by Fenzhi Zhang

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he qipao’s sleek and elegant form is an image widely associated with Chinese style and aesthetic. And beyond that, this traditional dress serves as a physical record of the historic and cultural changes during China’s 20th century. The qipao represents a rich cultural heritage and a sophisticated, intricate artistic custom.

遠看是一道風景,近看是一種風情,細看處處都是功 夫,這就是旗袍,一款中國風濃郁的經典服飾。 在很多西方人眼中,旗袍無疑是東方服飾文化和美 學的典型代表。其實,旗袍是中西文化兼容並蓄的經典 範例。 在共產黨統治的中國教育語言中,中華人民共和國 建立之前的「 民國時期 」被描繪為腐敗、 灰暗、民不聊 生。但實際上,這是一個大師層出不窮的年代,一段東

THE BIRTH OF AN ICONIC GARMENT The origins of the qipao lie in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), when China was under the rule of the Manchus, an ethnic group that brought their own distinctive customs and clothing to the imperial court.

西方文化真正交融碰撞的歷史,一個中國傳統文化儒雅 優美的時代。恰恰就是在這個時代,旗袍風尚在中國達 至頂峰,塑造了中國近代女裝最輝煌絢麗的歷史。 今天,人們談到旗袍,往往早已超越了服飾本身。 它是一種深具魅力的文化,一個繁複講究的工藝體系, 一種具有獨特東方韻味的美學表現。如果把旗袍僅僅看 作一款可以勾勒女性曲線的裙裝,則是對旗袍的誤讀。

Right page: Anna May Wong, the first Asian-American Hollywood actress. Anna May Wong’s qipao features a contrasting border that adorns the lapel, collar, sleeves, slit, and hem. (Photo by Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)

它雖然借鑒了西方服飾的剪裁和型態,但脫胎於中國傳 統文化的底蘊讓它別具東方韻味。這種「 韻 」才是旗袍 之美的核心。

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For women, this was a long dress with a straight, relaxed fit that flared slightly at the hem. This dress was the first ancestor of the qipao. Over time, these Manchu-style dresses were influenced by elements of Han fashion. And in the 20th century, as Western learning grew in popularity in post-imperial China, the qipao began to move away from its long and relaxed fit. At the request of wealthy, educated, and fashion-forward young women, private Chinese tailors began to apply Western tailoring techniques, such as chest and waist darts and shoulder seams, to the loose-fitting qipao, giving it a flattering fitted silhouette. As tailors continued to incorporate more elements of Western fashion into the qipao throughout the 1930s, the dress began to settle into the style we are familiar with today. A FASHION PHENOMENON In the thirty-some years of the Republic of China (1912–1949), ideas were freely exchanged between East and West. This led to a blending of tradition

中西並蓄的經典設計 關於旗袍的起源,有一種說法,旗袍乃「 旗人之袍 」, 肇始於清朝滿族婦女的連衣裙式寬鬆長服,後來受漢人 服飾影響,逐漸改良。 滿族婦女的旗袍,款型平直寬鬆,下擺較為肥大。 20 世紀初,隨著西學東漸的過程,旗袍吸收了西方製衣 的立體剪裁,開始使用胸省、腰省、裝袖和肩縫的縫紉 技術,在長袍中加入了縮腰、胸褶、接袖等,從而將平 直寬鬆的款型,轉換為收腰合體的曲線衣型。 清朝之後的民國期間,「 旗袍 」最早在上海風行, Top: Two Manchurian women sport the long, loose-fitting dresses that were in style during the Qing Dynasty. (Courtesy of The New York Public Library Digital Collections)

最終成為頗具代表的中國女性服飾。早期,民國的女子 們穿著布鞋和平底皮鞋搭配旗袍。從 20 世紀 30 年代 開始,隨著高跟鞋逐漸流行,民國女子開始用它和旗袍

Bottom: The last imperial couple of China, the emperor Puyi (right) sitting with the empress Wan Rong (left). Wan Rong is wearing a short-sleeve embroidered qipao. She came from a wealthy background and received a Western education prior to becoming empress. Rumor says she disliked the loose fit and thick construction of the traditional Qing Dynasty qipao, so she asked her personal tailor Li Chunfang to redesign it using Western techniques. (Public Domain)

搭配。右圖中,最右邊女子,身著的旗袍為三、四十年 代頗為流行的大格子印花面料;中間女子的旗袍為花卉 圖案,有深色滾邊;最左邊的女子穿了絲襪搭配旗袍。 在 20 世紀 30 年代的民國,旗袍款式基本穩定下 來。彼時的私家裁縫們,將西式時裝的元素,注入到追 求流行的民國女子的旗袍中,使這種中西文化並蓄的裙

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Starting in the 1930s, high-heeled shoes rose in popularity to complement the qipao. (Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)

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Left: The cover of the February 1935 issue of The Young Companion. (Public Domain) Right: The cover of the December 1934 issue of The Young Companion featured actress Ruan Lingyu, who sports an ankle-length, green-and-yellow checkered qipao with a high collar, short sleeves, and a rolled border. The border is a feature unique to the qipao, following the dress along its collar, sleeves, slit, and hem. The rolled border was difficult to make and was a marker of a qipao’s quality. (Public Domain)

and modernity and the emergence of many talented scholars and great artists. This dynamic period was documented in The Young Companion, one of the most widely distributed and most influential Chinese magazines at the time. In the spring of 1926, The Young Companion was first published in the international and fashion-forward city of Shanghai. The covers of The Young Companion, which often featured female actresses and celebrities wearing various styles of qipao, witnessed the ebb and f low of changing Chinese tastes and fashion ideals.

裝做到了極致。就這樣,一個流轉百年的中國時尚經典, 在這些民國裁縫的指尖誕生了。在世界時裝歷史中,旗袍 是東方傳統文化吸收西方特點的服飾典範,其獨特的文化 韻味,讓東西方女性都為之著迷。 「 旗袍 」產生並發展至巔峰的背後,是不可複製的民 國風采,是一個自由、中西兼容、創意迸發的燦爛時代。 璀璨民國時代的亮麗風景 這裡所說的「 民國時期 」,即1912年中華民國建立,至 1949年中共統治開始的三十餘年間。這是中國歷史上承 前啟後的重要時期,各種思潮在這個自由、寬鬆的大時 代下,激烈碰撞。傳統和現代,東方和西方,交融與碰 撞中,民國期間民智開啟,大師、才女層出不窮,各種

METICULOUS DETAIL From measuring and sewing to decoration and embellishment, hand-making a qipao takes care and attention to detail. In particular, the qipao’s adornments, which consist of traditional Chinese elements, are especially exquisite and visually stunning, giving the dress a unique grace and charm. The fasteners that adorn qipao are unique to Chinese apparel and are known for their complex construction, elegant design, and ease of use. Handmade fasteners add refinement and grace to a qipao.

書籍出版物紛沓至來。 民國時期的眾多出版物中,《良友》畫報被認為是 當時發行量最大、發行範圍最廣、最有影響力的刊物。 《良友》於 1926 年春,誕生在民國最具國際氣息和時尚 敏銳感的上海。其封面多為女性,以明星名媛為主。作 為民國生活的記載者, 《良友》封面見證了民國時期女性 審美和時裝的變遷,也記錄了特屬於民國女子的芳華年 代,封面上女性的著裝,多是各種風情的旗袍。 《良友》畫報 1934 年 12 月刊的封面,為民國期間的 影視明星——阮玲玉。照片中的旗袍為高領、短袖、滾邊 的及腳長款旗袍。這款旗袍有完整的青黃色格紋圖案,

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A qipao boutique in China. (Photo by Shutterstock)

Another unique feature of the qipao is its various styles of borders, which follow the qipao around its collar, sleeves, slit, and hem. Some of the most popular styles are the contrasting border and rolled border, which is shaped like a thin round cord. The surface of the qipao is embellished with exquisite, hand-sewn embroidery of different natural images. They can be displayed all along the dress, as a small detail, or even within a contrasting border. Adorned with such intricate details, the qipao is a beautiful and enduring classic, uniting Western fashion techniques with a traditional Chinese aesthetic.

無胸部和腰部的捏省,從上到下,全身非常合體,當時裁 縫匠師高超的剪裁和製作技藝,可見一斑。同時,本圖旗 袍上的滾邊工藝極為精湛。所謂滾邊,即包裹旗袍領口、 袖口、開衩、底邊等開口部位的製衣技藝。這種工藝的 難點在於,保持衣服的轉彎處線條之流暢平整。 傳統手工藝珍之美 從量體裁衣,到鑲邊、滾邊、盤扣和刺繡等,一件手工 旗袍的誕生,涉及很多精細的工藝。這些工藝頗具中國 傳統特色,讓旗袍在精緻美觀之外,更多幾分韻味。旗 袍的美,除了整體的形、材料和花色之外,就在這些精 工的細節中。 衣型細瘦渾圓,著裝「 貼身不貼肉 」,這就是旗袍。 從頭頸、肩、手臂、胸、腰、臀到腿,它能夠把女性輪 廓, 整體勾勒成一幅柔順完美的曲線風景。款步行走 時,兩邊的開衩讓裙擺下角輕微飄動,旗袍的韻味就展 現出——婉約、含蓄,揮灑著特有的,屬於東方女性雅 緻、靈動之美。

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ELITE PEOPLE

Moreen Liao on the

Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療喚醒青春密碼 English text by Irene Luo Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Banny Zhang

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escending from a line of traditional Chinese medicine doctors, Moreen Liao grew up in Taiwan surrounded by medicinal herbs and fragrant f lowers in her family’s garden. Moreen’s mother used herbs and f lowers for every imaginable purpose: from cooking nutrient-rich cuisine to concocting medicine to brewing wine, like osmanthus and rose wines with special revitalizing properties. Immersed as she was in the scents of different flowers and herbs, Moreen acquired a keen sense of smell. “It’s to the point that sometimes, when I smell a scent, I will recall meeting someone over 10 years ago, or a certain garden where I smelled this scent, or someone who used a perfume with this particular fragrance,” Moreen said.

光潔柔嫩的肌膚不僅是愛美人士的畢生追求,也是保養 品牌的生存之道。吹彈可破的肌膚需要從內而外養成, 青春的密碼可從東西方傳統醫療的智慧中得到解答。 Ausganica 保養原理依循五行、五感與五臟彼此呼應, 結合有機芳療香氛,從內改善本體精氣神,外在肌膚自 然白裡透紅。 當 Ausganica 創 辦 人 廖 曉 倩 談 到 她 最 喜 歡 的 Ausganica 產品—Rose Elixir,我的眼睛為之一亮, 不僅因為其中有 著 一百零八種 植物萃 取,提 供皮 膚所 需的高濃度營養,完全是「Skin Super Food 」的概 念:抗氧化、消炎、抗 過 敏、保濕、抗自由基、滋養、 增 強 免 疫力、維 持 彈力、保濕 補 水。當你 的 體 內 攝 取 營養失衡,這些植物萃取 就能夠成為維持外在肌膚健 康的最佳補給,隨時維持肌膚狀態與預防老化。 家中幾代都製作中草藥也能 配 藥方,廖曉倩從小 就懂得「 藥食同源 」,父母細心照 顧 的花園,讓 她發

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After moving out of her parents’ home for boarding school, she would buy a bundle of flowers every weekend to brighten her room. This weekly routine inspired her love for aromatherapy, which uses extracts from plants, called essential oils, to ease stress and anxiety and uplift one’s mood. She imbues her Australia-based beauty brand, Ausganica, with a similar philosophy: to fill one’s life with nature’s beauty, aromas, and nourishing properties. Every ingredient in Ausganica’s products is all-natural and plant-based, so no harmful chemicals enter your body. The company uses over 300 certified organic ingredients, including over 250 active botanicals carefully extracted from the roots, flowers, fruits, or leaves of different plants around the world. Moreen’s personal favorite product is Rose Elixir, which is infused with 108 organic botanicals to nourish and revitalize the skin, making it more radiant, toned, and supple. “It’s like a superfood for skin,” Moreen says. And it also helps the skin resist environmental stressors like pollution, free radicals, oxidization, and UV rays. A key component of Rose Elixir is hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid holds water, making the skin hydrated and plump. It is actually found naturally in the skin, but as humans age, our skin has less and less of it, which is why it features prominently in many skin care products. The hyaluronic acid used in Ausganica products is fermented from beetroot and wheat and has extremely small molecules, thus allowing it to penetrate the skin more effectively. This natural form of hyaluronic acid can cost over a thousand times more than the synthetic form. In the formulations at Ausganica, Moreen unites the efficacy of Western herbs with the wisdom of traditional Chinese medicine. In contrast to Western medicine, which views the body as a collection of individual parts, traditional Chinese medicine sees the human body as a set of interconnected systems that maintain health by balancing opposing energies and the natural flow of the body’s vital energy. Thus, traditional Chinese medicine adopts a holistic approach that emphasizes preventing illnesses before they manifest. As such, Moreen is a strong advocate for meditation to promote health and wellness. “A lot of times, when I’m really tired, the best rest is meditation,” she says. Moreen practices a traditional Chinese meditation discipline called Falun Dafa, which unites five physical exercises with a moral philosophy based on truthfulness,

compassion, and tolerance. In this day and age, people are increasingly bustling about, bombarded by appointments and commitments and stress-inducing circumstances. Falun Dafa, Moreen says, “helps me calm down when my mind is turbulent and helps me let go of negative emotions.” Moreen hopes Ausganica’s personal care products can also uplift people in their pursuit of inner peace, beauty, and confidence. With its bounty of organic ingredients, Ausganica offers delightful doses of nature to revitalize and refresh our lives. 掘自己具有辨識與記憶 植物 香氣的天賦、自然地走 進 了調香與芳療的領域,結合東西方傳統醫療的智慧與 優 點 而 創 立 Ausganica。 廖 曉 倩 擁 有自家 工 廠, 能 夠嚴格掌控 原料的來源與級別,例如產品中所含純植 物萃 取 的玻 尿 酸,價格比黃金高昂,但是 效 果 遠 勝於 一 般 化 學 生 產 的 廉 價 玻 尿 酸。 旗 下 天 然 香 水 避 開 有 害人體 的定香 劑,使 用有機 純 粹的花 草香氛。獨立 生 產 且天 然有 效 的 配方,讓 Ausganica 在美容保 養的 紅海中走出了一片天。 由於本身專業是芳香 療法,廖曉倩侃侃而談西方 花 草 的 獨 到 療 效。 芳 香 療 法 的 好 處 是 精 油 分 子 活 性 高,所以 滲 透 力 很 強,並 且 具有令人愉 悅 的 香 氣。香 氛不只能 進入人體循環,聞香同時能安撫、提 振與放 鬆 使 用者 的 情 緒。Ausganica 除了以有 機 香 氛 療 法 為基礎,還有中醫「 治未病 」概 念應用在產品的配方 中,相當於西方「 預 防醫 學 」。現代 人聞之色變的 掉 髮問 題,中醫看來可能 是腎 氣不足,或者是 頭 皮循 環 不 好,Ausganica 便 採 用相 關 療 效 的西方 花 草針 對 問題 進行保 健。品牌堅 持使用有機 認證的原料,也是 預 防人體 接 觸 有毒 物 質,進而引發其他疾 病。簡 而言 之,Ausganica 是以中醫的智慧處 理西方有機花草。 廖 曉 倩 認 為 在 中 醫 的 觀 念 中, 人 的 五 感、 五 觀 就 是 五行 的 體 現, 也 對 應 五 臟 六 腑 的 運 作, 因 此 關 於五感 在日常生活中所 觸及的方方面 面,需要 特別留 心。現代 人與大自然的連 結薄弱,平常又接 觸大 量 工 作壓力與 環 境污染,五感受害甚深,對身 體機能的運 作 有 著 強 大 的 負面 影 響。 蘊 含東 西 方 傳 統 醫 學 理 念 的 Ausganica 產品便 能從營養、香氣與使 用情 境 上 補 充 這塊不足。近年西方時 尚開始流行古老中國調 理 人 體 內 外 的 智 慧,如 靜 坐、風 水、五行與 中 醫,但 是 古人 的 智 慧玄之又玄,西方愛美人士 難 以 窺 其堂奧; Ausganica 揉合了 東 西方傳 統 療 法 精 華,讓 產 品 的 功效不只停 留在表 層肌 膚,也能從內改善身 體機 能。 Ausganica 堅 持 選 用有 機 認 證 的 天 然 成分,自行生 產亦能確保高端原料品質不摻水,讓每一吋肌膚保養 由內而外,全方位擁有美麗光彩。

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The 2019 ELITE Makeup and Fragrance Award Winners have been chosen! We tested hundreds of products on the market to bring you the best of quality and innovation. These include everything from classics to hot new products that caught our attention. Here they are, the 2019 ELITE Beauty Award Winners!

Makeup & Fragrance

BEAUTY

AWARDS

By Pia-Maria Norris

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Makeup AWARD WINNERS 年度最佳美妝大獎

BRAND AWARDS

1

PRESTIGE AWARD Dior This classic icon continues to wow us with innovative, high-quality products, gorgeous color assortments, and fresh, feminine, and vibrant shades!

2

CULT BEAUTY AWARD Tarte Funky and innovative, Tarte’s eco-chic line makes our lives more colorful and fun, while keeping the product line hypoallergenic, cruelty-free, and vegan! Formulated without parabens, phthalates, sodium lauryl sulfate, triclosan, and gluten. (tartecosmetics.com)

(dior.com)

3

4 NATURAL AWARD (masstige) 100% PURE Made from pure, organic nutrients and fruit pigments and free of anything synthetic or artificial, 100% PURE’s makeup collection is as healthy as it is fabulous! (100percentpure.com)

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DESIGN AWARD lilah b. With its white signature stone compacts, lilah b.’s sleek and minimalistic, high-quality design made it a clear design award winner! (lilahbeauty.com) Please note that the special award winners can only participate with a maximum of three products in the individual award categories.

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2019 winners

FOUNDATIONS 7

6

8

6 5 4

1

4

2

3

1. BEST FOUNDATION

6. BEST NATURAL LIQUID FOUNDATION (masstige) 100% PURE - Fruit Pigmented FullCoverage Water Foundation

Tarte - Babassu Foundcealer Phenomenal texture, color assortment, and dewy finish!

Provides healthy, hydrating coverage with a natural, dewy finish.

($39, tartecosmetics.com)

($41, 100percentpure.com)

2. BEST LONG-LASTING FOUNDATION

4. BEST STICK FOUNDATION (prestige)

Dior - Forever Skin Glow

Burberry - Fresh Glow Gel Stick

Flawless coverage and radiant finish for up to 24 hours!

Innovative water-infused formula that glides on like silk!

($52, dior.com)

($48, Nordstrom.com)

3. BEST HYDRATING FOUNDATION

5. BEST STICK FOUNDATION (masstige)

Laura Mercier - Flawless Lumière Foundation

Flesh - Firm Flesh Stick

8. BEST CREAM FOUNDATION Kjaer Weis - Cream Foundation

Provides up to 15 hours of hydration and a luminous finish!

Creamy, blendable formula with a luminous, lightly dewy, non-chalky finish. Comes in 40 fabulous shades!

Has a beautiful, nourishing formula and comes in a gorgeous range of shades.

($48, lauramercier.com)

($18, Ulta, fleshbeauty.com)

($68, kjaerweis.com)

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7. BEST NATURAL CREAM FOUNDATION rms beauty - “Un” Cover-Up Flawlessly covers imperfections and redness with its creamy, healthy, and hypoallergenic formula! ($36, rmsbeauty.com)

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CC cream 1. BEST CC CREAM Chanel - Super CC Cream Provides anti-aging benefits while color correcting and illuminating the skin! ($55, chanel.com) 2

TINTED

moisturizers 2. BEST TINTED MOISTURIZER

4

Laura Mercier - Tinted Moisturizer Provides fabulous natural coverage in regular, oil-free, or illuminating formulas!

primers

($46, lauramercier.com)

3. BEST NATURAL TINTED MOISTURIZER (masstige) 100% PURE - Fruit Pigmented Tinted Moisturizer

4. BEST GLOW PRIMER

Nourishes the skin while providing a flawless, dewy finish.

Burberry - Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base

($48, 100percentpure.com)

Fabulously luminizing fluid makeup base for a dewy finish and glow. ($48, Nordstrom.com)

5. BEST COLOR-CORRECTING PRIMER

5

Stila - One Step Correct Brightens, illuminates, and neutralizes redness and sallow undertones! ($36, stilacosmetics.com)

6. BEST BLUR PRIMER Stila - Lingerie Soufflé Primer Opulently whipped, refreshingly lightweight tinted skin primer!

2 6

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($36, stilacosmetics.com)

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concealers 7. BEST CREAM CONCEALER

7

Hourglass - Hidden Corrective Concealer

8

A creamy, hydrating, and gluten-free formula that provides natural, long-lasting coverage. ($34, hourglasscosmetics.com)

8. BEST CREAM CONCEALER DUO Laura Mercier - Secret Camouflage Practical, customizable two-shade concealer! ($35, lauramercier.com)

9. BEST LIQUID CONCEALER DUO

10

flesh - Hide the Evidence Double Concealer

10

Tackles every concealer shortcoming by combining two shades and two formulas in one pen! ($28, Ulta, fleshbeauty.com)

9

10. BEST FULL-COVERAGE CONCEALER Kevyn Aucoin - The Sensual Skin Enhancer A highly pigmented, waterproof, full-coverage formula. ($48, kevynaucoinbeauty.com)

11. BEST FACE CORRECTOR Trish McEvoy Correct & Even Full-Face Perfector The unique, elastic texture instantly delivers full coverage and a luminous natural finish. ($45, trishmcevoy.com)

12

12. BEST COLOR-CORRECTING PALETTE Stila - All-in-One Color Correcting Palette Customizable color-correcting palette that neutralizes skin-tone imperfections.

11

($45, stilacosmetics.com)

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1

ILLUMINATORS

4 3

& highlighters 1. BEST BRIGHTENING PEN

7. BEST HIGHLIGHTING POWDER

YSL - Touche Éclat All-Over Brightening Pen

Clé de Peau - Luminizing Face Enhancer

A sheer, shimmer-free brightening pen for all-over, natural luminosity.

Enhances the natural beauty of skin with a dramatically lustrous makeup finish.

($35, yslbeautyus.com)

($95, cledepeaubeaute.com)

2. BEST STROBING PEN

8. BEST HIGHLIGHTER TRIO

YSL - Touche Éclat Strobing Light

Charlotte Tilbury - Bar of Gold

Strobing highlighter with just the right amount of shimmer!

A divine highlighter trio in mesmerizing shades of gold!

($38, yslbeautyus.com)

($58, charlottetilbury.com)

3. BEST GLOW STICK

9. BEST CONTOURING DUO

Chanel - Baume Essentiel

YSL - Couture Contouring Palette

A sheer, hydrating balm formula that delivers a fresh, dewy effect.

Beautifully defines and highlights without creating harsh lines!

($45, chanel.com)

($47, yslbeautyus.com)

5

4. BEST NATURAL LUMINIZER rms beauty - Living Luminizer Enhances the skin with an ultra sheer, luminous glow. ($38, rmsbeauty.com) 7

5. BEST CREAMPOWDER ILLUMINATOR

9

lilah b. - Glisten + Glow Creates natural-looking, candlelit skin luminosity! ($60, lilahbeauty.com)

6. BEST LIQUID HIGHLIGHTER TOM FORD - Soleil Glow Drops Blends flawlessly onto skin for instant glow! ($50, tomford.com) 52│ 6

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powders 10. BEST ANTI-AGING LOOSE POWDER

10

La Prairie - Skin Caviar Loose Powder Infused with skin-beneficial nutrients and Caviar Extract for complexion perfection, this gem illuminates and sets makeup for an all-day youthful, natural, shine-free finish. ($220 for 40 g plus a 10 g travel size, laprairie.com) 11

11. BEST ILLUMINATING POWDER Hourglass - Ambient Finishing Powder Available in six shades that make skin appear softer, younger, and perfectly lit. ($48, hourglasscosmetics.com)

12

blushes

16. BEST CREAM BLUSH Kjaer Weis - Cream Blush

12. BEST POWDER BLUSH (prestige)

Comes in a certified organic and nourishing formula, incredible texture, and superb color assortment!

Sisley Paris - Phyto-Blush Éclat

($56, kjaerweis.com)

Creates a subtly glowing, healthy look in one sweep! ($88, sisley-paris.com)

13. BEST POWDER BLUSH (cult beauty)

14

Tarte - Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush Looks as fresh at the end of the day as when you first applied it! ($29, tartecosmetics.com)

14. BEST POWDER BLUSH (masstige) FLOWER Beauty - Flower Pots Powder Blush

13

Comes in four flattering shades for a healthy flush of color! ($10, flowerbeauty.com)

15. BEST CHEEK & LIP DUO lilah b. - Divine Duo Lip & Cheek 16

Long-wearing, creamy, and moisturizing! Available in eight gorgeous shades. ($46, lilahbeauty.com)

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2

1

LIPSTICKS

6. BEST NATURAL LIPSTICK

& stains

100% PURE - Pomegranate Oil Anti-Aging Lipstick Features vibrant, fruit-pigmented shades and a fabulous finish! ($32, 100percentpure.com)

1. BEST LIPSTICK HOURGLASS - Confession Ultra Slim Refillable Lipstick

7. BEST PINK SHADE Burberry - Full Kisses in Rose Peony 513

Delivers creamy, saturated, long-wearing color with a satin finish.

The most beautiful pink shade in a deliciously creamy formula.

($36, hourglasscosmetics.com)

($30, Nordstrom.com)

2. BEST HYDRATING LIPSTICK

8. BEST MATTE LIP STAIN

Lancôme - L'Absolu Rouge

Burberry - Lip Velvet Crush

Hydrating formula that gives high color payoff without the dryness!

Delivers a beautiful, sheer-matte, long-lasting finish.

($32, lancome-usa.com)

3

($30, Nordstrom.com)

3. BEST LONG-LASTING LIPSTICK

9. BEST GLOSSY LIP STAIN

Shiseido - VisionAiry Gel Lipstick

TOM FORD - Liquid Patent Lip Lacquer

Has a long-lasting, full-coverage formula and texture that glides on like weightless silk!

Offers a gorgeous, ultra-glossy finish and intense, vibrant shades!

($26, shiseido.com)

($55, tomford.com)

4. BEST SHEER LIPSTICK Clé de Peau - Refined Lip Luminizer Sheer, radiant color in just one swipe! ($58, cledepeaubeaute.com)

5. BEST SHINE LIPSTICK Dior - Dior Addict Stellar Shine Delivers 8 hours of gorgeous shine! ($37, dior.com)

5 7

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8 9

LIP GLOSSES

& balms 10. BEST CLEAR LIP GLOSS

14. BEST LIP GLOSS/STICK

Shiseido - Crystal Gel Gloss

Surratt Beauty - Lipslique

Provides an almost surreal, ultra-shiny and clear, wet finish!

A beautiful lipstick alternative that is lighter than a lipstick but more sophisticated than a gloss!

($22, shiseido.com)

10

($34, Barneys, sephora.com)

11. BEST HYDRATING LIP GLOSS Clé de Peau - Radiant Lip Gloss Delivers a dewy glow in sheer, fresh colors! ($38, cledepeaubeaute.com)

12. BEST LIP GLOSS PEN

lip liner 15. BEST LIP LINER

Sisley Paris - Phyto-Lip Twist Leaves lips soft, moisturized, and glossy! Available in 16 shades. ($50, sisley-paris.com)

Dior - Rouge Dior Ink Lip Liner Flawlessly defines lip contours with its felt-tip pen and liquid ink formula! ($32, dior.com)

13. BEST NATURAL LIP GLOSS 100% PURE - Lip Caramel Highly pigmented formula with a glossy, dazzling color finish! ($26, 100percentpure.com)

15

14

13

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EYE

products

1

1. BEST EYELINER Shiseido - ArchLiner Ink

2

Great microfine arched tip and ergonomic design! ($24, shiseido.com)

2. BEST EYE PEN Hourglass - 1.5mm Gel Liner The thinnest and softest waterproof gel eyeliner! Offers amazing precision accuracy and ease of application. ($18, hourglasscosmetics.com)

3. BEST WATERPROOF EYE PEN Sisley Paris - Phyto-Eye Twist Beautiful, silky formula and luminous finish! Can be used as eyeliner, pencil, or shadow. ($50, sisley-paris.com)

4. BEST EYE PEN COLOR ASSORTMENT Urban Decay - 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil

3

Creamy, waterproof eye pencil in a rainbow of shades! ($21, urbandecay.com)

5. BEST BROW PRODUCT Urban Decay - Brow Blade Gives microblade-like definition and precision without the commitment! ($26, urbandecay.com) 5

4

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EYE

shadows 6. BEST EYE SHADOW QUARTET

6

TOM FORD - Eye Color Quad Comes in gorgeous complementary shades and textures for multidimensional effects! Can be applied wet or dry. Here featured in African Violet. ($88, tomford.com)

7. BEST EYE SHADOW PALETTE Urban Decay - Naked Heat Stunning, rich, amber-hued neutrals in a velvety texture with great blendability and staying power. ($54, urbandecay.com)

8. EDITOR’S AWARD

7

Tarte - tartelette Toasted Palette Features the perfect combo of rich and warm, wearable mattes and lustrous shimmers in universally flattering lid, crease, and liner shades! ($39, tartecosmetics.com)

9. BEST EYE SHADOW PEN Shiseido - Kajal InkArtist Shadow, Liner, Brow Smudge-proof, crease-proof, waterproof four-in-one eye pen with a smooth glide and weightless feel! Comes with a detachable sharpener and built-in blending sponge.

8

Available in eight shades. ($25, shiseido.com)

10. BEST GLOSS EYE SHADOW

9

Surratt Beauty - Lid Lacquer The nonsticky, glossy formula creates a lustrous glow for eyelids and beyond. ($36, Barneys, sephora.com)

11. BEST CREAM EYE SHADOW (masstige) FLOWER Beauty - Pop Fanatic Eye Pigment Richly pigmented, creamy formula in six vivid colors! ($9, flowerbeauty.com) 11 10 │57

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3

4

other gems 1. BEST EYE, CHEEK, AND LIP PRODUCT

3. BEST EYE & LIP COLLECTION

Lancôme - Le Monochromatique

Dominique Cosmetics Berries & Cream Collection

Available in 10 shades ranging from pearly metallics to sparkly sheers. Can be used wet or dry! ($25, lancome-usa.com)

Divine collection of warm and cool eye shadow shades and two matching matte liquid lipsticks! ($44, dominiquecosmetics.com)

2. BEST FACE PALETTE Charlotte Tilbury - Glowing, Pretty Skin Palette

4. BEST GLOW BRUSH

Flattering six-shade palette with bronzer, blush, and highlighter!

Laura Mercier - Glow Powder Brush

($75, charlottetilbury.com)

Innovative design that allows for even, luminous application! ($38, lauramercier.com)

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Fragrance

AWARD WINNERS

經典香氛 年度最佳香水大獎

1

BEST SCENT FOR HIM AND HER CREED - White Flowers A floral-rich blend of white flowers, this delicate and divine scent is a true legend! ($545 for 2.5 oz., creedboutique.com)

2

BEST WOMEN’S SCENT Burberry - Her Eau de Parfum A vibrant, feminine, fruity-floral scent with key notes of dark berries, jasmine, musk, and amber. ($94 for 1.6 oz., us.burberry.com)

3

BEST MEN’S SCENT Gucci - Guilty Pour Homme Eau de Toilette A captivating scent with notes of lemon and orange, lavender, patchouli, and the masculine richness of cedar wood. ($74 for 1.6 oz., gucci.com)

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5

6 BEST ROSE SCENT

BEST CITRUS SCENT PERRIS Monte Carlo Cedro di Diamante Eau de Parfum The freshness and brightness of the sparkling, zesty citrus notes will brighten up your day!

PERRIS Monte Carlo Rose de Taif Extrait de Parfum

($190 for 3.4 oz., perrismontecarlo.com)

The exotic Saudi Arabian rose is at the heart of this alluring scent. ($356 for 1.7 oz., perrismontecarlo.com)

4

BEST CHILDREN’S SCENT CREED For Kids Subtle yet playful notes of luscious plum, crisp apple, rose, lemon, and tart grapefruit. Alcohol-free. ($235 for 3.3 oz., creedboutique.com)

7

BEST WOODY SCENT diptyque - Philosykos Eau de Parfum With intriguing and woody notes of fig, this scent is an ode to the entire fig tree! ($175 for 2.5 oz., diptyqueparis.com)

8

BEST INDIE SCENT Pinrose - Mystical Misfit Eau de Parfum A happy, fresh, and whimsically unique scent with an extraordinary blend of fruit and patchouli! ($65 for 1.7 oz., Pinrose.com)

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9

BEST EVENING SCENT FOR HER Lancôme - Parfait de Rôses Eau de Parfum

10

A sensual, rose-fruity scent that wraps you in a veil of irresistible sweetness.

BEST EVENING SCENT FOR HIM & HER Houbigant Paris - Orangers en Fleurs Eau de Parfum With its floral breath of pure orange blossoms, this fresh and citrusy fragrance recalls faraway lands and regal epochs of high society.

($198 for 3.4 oz., lancome-usa.com)

($190 for 3.4 oz., houbigantparfum.com)

11

BEST SPRING AND SUMMER SCENT Goutal Le Chèvrefeuille Eau de Toilette A divinely feminine honeysuckle scent that smells like bottled sunshine!

12

BEST FALL & WINTER SCENT Burberry - My Burberry Black Parfum An intense, sensual scent that fuses jasmine and peach nectar with candied rose and amber patchouli. ($127 for 3.0 oz., us.burberry.com)

($170 for 3.4 oz., us.goutalparis.com)

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花園居所 與社區對話

ROSCOMMON HOUSE A contemporary concrete home that pays homage to Perth’s history English text by Angela Feng | Chinese text by Ada Tian Photography by Michael Nicholson, Robert Frith, and Jack Lovel

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The house has a total of 5,900 square feet of floor area. Throughout the entire house, the architects have cleverly sown in green spaces to better integrate the property with its surrounding environment.

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Left: Collector items, such as an antique water-ski collection, contribute to the uniqueness of this living space. Right: Lively pops of color stand out against the minimal, white walls, giving the room a playful ambience.

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ituated in Floreat, Australia, one of Perth’s loveliest garden suburbs, this contemporary concrete home draws inspiration from the area’s modernist history. Elegant and timeless, the home reflects the unique attributes of its location while serving all the needs and desires of its residing family. Designer Neil Cownie has been providing clients with impeccable, hands-on service since the founding of his firm in 2009. At Neil Cownie Architect, Neil is the point of contact throughout the entire project. He is genuinely involved in all stages of the process, from design development to on-site administration. With the Roscommon House, it is no different. Neil was given the opportunity to take a holistic design approach, covering everything from architecture to interior design to landscape. Neil’s clients wanted to avoid the “mansion look,” instead opting for a home with a more modest facade.

這座位在澳大利亞的混凝土住宅由尼爾 · 考尼建築事務 所設計。起伏的混凝土牆與被木材包覆的室內空間同無 處不在的綠色空間結合,強調了大自然的美感與居住環 境的美學。這座將建築和景觀結合的建築,滿足了客戶 的需求和願望,同時也是社區規畫精神的延伸。 羅斯康芒住宅正在與它的過去、現在和未來對話: 它反映了「 花園郊區 」的城市規畫理性,現代主義建築特 點及建築的獨特屬性。它是一個與社區氣質對話,具有 強烈「 歸屬感 」的新住宅。

Top left: The wall cladding and cabinetry throughout the entire house is fashioned out of engineered timber. Top right: In the living room, the rich blue Redondo sofa and the ombre rug adds a pop of color. Bottom left: In the study room, a gently curved ceiling balances out the stricter lines of the wall paneling and inset shelves. Bottom right: The shape of the kitchen island pays homage to the local iconic beachside kiosk that was saved from demolition by the community.

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Therefore, most of Roscommon House is single-storied, though it does contain a basement and a roof garden accessible from the master bedroom. As the area is home to Perth’s first off-form concrete building—the Hale School Memorial Hall—the use of concrete throughout Roscommon House is especially appropriate. The continuation of the robust exterior material to the inside of the house contributes to the home’s seamless interaction between indoor and outdoor living. The interior embraces its uneven concrete surfaces, channeling the Japanese aesthetic of “wabi-sabi,” seeking beauty from imperfection. Materials have been chosen for their roughness, texture, modesty, and acceptance of the beauty in aging. While his clients’ desire for a gray concrete home at first excited Neil, he soon faced the challenge of creating an end product that still felt warm and welcoming. To balance out the coolness of the concrete, Neil layered on other materials, such as the timber wall and ceiling cladding. The use of unique shapes and colors adds a sense of refined fun. The curved forms of the roofs take inspiration from the local iconic South City Beach kiosk. Vibrant fabrics for the furniture, along with pops of color on the walls, give the home a playful touch.

建築的主體空間位於一層,主臥與客臥位於二層, 此 外還有屋頂花園和 地下室。住宅的總面積 為 5,900 平方英尺,建築師巧妙地在各個綠色的空間裡種下了他 們所能做到的一切綠植。 通過庭院的空間布局,以及將粗獷、堅固風格的室 外混凝土材質引入室內的方式,模糊了室內外居住空間 的界限。室內局部採用了帶有凹凸紋理的混凝土牆面, 恰好符合了日本「 侘寂 」美學。混凝土因其粗糙、獨特質 感、謙遜和對老化美的接受而被選擇。所有的室內裝飾 到建築本身,反映了從不完美中尋求美的精神,所謂餘 韻無窮。 建築師將波浪狀的線條帶到室外,用於泳池和遮陽 亭的造型,營造了空間的獨特性。「 口袋 」庭院的空間布 局也受到了環境因素的影響:通過分離建築體塊,最大 限度地利用冬季曬入室內的陽光和捕捉盛夏的涼風。 建築師為客戶提供了整體設計服務,跨越了建築、 室內設計、產品設計、家具、藝術品選擇和景觀設計, 將建築與室內所有細節作為整體實現,進一步延伸了該 社區的精神特質。在壓倒性的以灰色調為主要背景的室 內,建築師特意選擇充滿活力的面料及形狀流暢或圓形 的家具,來打破沈寂。

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Left: The undulating lines of the pool and overhead awning add a sense of refined fun. Top: The courtyard dining table is custom-designed by Neil Cownie Architect. The custom-cut vitrified tile top stands on a fabricated powder-coated metal base. Bottom: A four-seat sofa and a mesh table with an aluminum top, both from the Kettal Mobilia collection, make this covered outdoor terrace the perfect place to relax.

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Neil’s dedication to sustainability played a major role in the design of the house. “This house was designed to reduce energy and water consumption over its projected long lifespan,” he says. The front roof conceals a 16.5 kW photovoltaic array comprising 50 panels, allowing the house to be self-sufficient with its energy. Timbers and finishes within the house were sourced from sustainable resources. Neil’s goal was to design a building that sits comfortably within its surrounding suburbs while paying homage to the location’s history—a goal he certainly achieved. Furthermore, he created a home that will withstand the test of time, housing its owners through all stages of family life. To Neil, “Roscommon House is in conversation with its past, present, and future.” Right: Natural light shines through a rounded skylight over the stairs, leading to the master bedroom and rooftop garden. Bottom: Custom-made bedroom side tables designed by Neil Cownie Architect flank the Diesel Creative Team’s Gimme Shelter bed. Right page: The curved forms of the roofs take inspiration from the local iconic South City Beach kiosk. Vibrant fabrics for the furniture, along with pops of color on the walls, give the home a playful touch.

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ELITE HOME

Spring Outdoor Living

TOP TRENDS SPOTTED AT THE IMM COLOGNE 2019 2019春夏戶外家居流行趨勢 By Faithe Lo

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PICTURES COURTESY OF KETTAL AND VONDOM

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pring has sprung! Flowers are in bloom, and the weather is getting warmer. Make sure to take advantage of the beauty of this season by spending more time outdoors. With so many stylish patio furniture pieces available, it can be hard to know which ones to choose. Take a look at four of the most popular trends of 2019, as seen at the IMM Cologne furniture and interiors fair held in Cologne, Germany.

春天翩然而至!春暖花開,無論是一人獨享的片刻寧靜,

CONNECTING INDOOR AND OUTDOOR SPACES In recent years, more architects and interior designers have begun replacing traditional walls with large glass doors, so as to better connect indoor and outdoor living spaces. Furthermore, the difference between indoor and outdoor furniture has also become more blurred. Top brands such as Roche Bobois and Minotti have successfully launched outdoor versions of popular interior collections.

近年來,建築師、室內設計師熱愛以大片玻璃推門取代

或者和親朋好友談天小聚,越來越多人選擇在室外空間 進行這些活動,戶外家具的樣式、設計、材質也越來越 受重視。在諸多令人眼花撩亂的家具中,要怎麼選擇才 符合時尚品味?不妨參考從2019年德國科隆國際家具展 中嚴選出的4個流行趨勢,看看這個世界三大家具展之一 的潮流脈動怎麼走。

傳統的牆和門, 或者將室內空間縝密地與大片露台相 連,時常讓人分不清現在是在室外呢?還是在室內呢? 而這個趨勢也讓室內和室外家具設計的分野越來越模 糊,頂級品牌接連將旗下知名室內家具系列推出室外版 本,如 Roche Bobois 的 Mah Jong 系列和 Minotti 的 Prince Cord 系列。而 Vondom 的 Tablet 系列則無論 室內室外都合用。

TOP: VONDOM, TABLET COLLECTION, PRICE UPON REQUEST, VONDOM.COM LEFT PAGE: KETTAL, VIMINI 2-PLACE SOFA, 3-PLACE SOFA, DINING CHAIR; RIVA DINING TABLE; PRICE UPON REQUEST; KETTAL.COM

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TOP: ROCHE BOBOIS, MAH JONG OUTDOOR MODULAR SOFA, PRICE UPON REQUEST, ROCHE BOBOIS.COM LEFT: MINOTTI, PRINCE CORD OUTDOOR, PRICE UPON REQUEST, MINOTTI.COM

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PICTURES COURTESY OF ROCHE BOBOIS, MINOTTI, GLOSTER, GIORGETTI, AND GANDIABLASCO

THE BEAUTY OF ALUMINUM Aluminum is lightweight, durable, and low-maintenance, making it one of the best materials for outdoor furniture. It also comes in many colors, from the typical copper and gold to more unique options, such as camel gray, terracotta, and moss green. Such a wide range of possibilities makes it easier to match the color

of the aluminum to the upholstery fabric—another popular trend this year. 鋁製品有許多特點都很適合作為室外家具的骨架:重量 輕、耐用、維護起來輕鬆。在流行了幾年的亮面紅銅、金 銅後,今年設計師為金屬添上霧面紅陶、駝灰、苔綠等 顏色,並且熱衷於使用與座椅面料相同的色系。

TOP: GLOSTER, DUNE LOUNGE CHAIR, $5,760; DUNE 2-SEATER SOFA, $8,800; DUNE OTTOMAN, $2,400; AMBIENT COCOON, $640; GLOSTER.COM BOTTOM LEFT: GIORGETTI, LOOP SMALL ARMCHAIR, PRICE UPON REQUEST; BREAK DINING TABLE, PRICE UPON REQUEST; GIORGETTIMEDA.COM BOTTOM RIGHT: GANDIABLASCO, SOLANAS LOUNGE CHAIR, PRICE UPON REQUEST, GANDIABLASCO. COM/US/

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GO MODULAR! With a modular sofa, your options are endless. Mix and match components to create the perfect seating arrangement for every occasion. This year, designers have been favoring sofas that are lower and closer to the floor. This subtle adjustment makes relaxing outdoors feel even cozier and more comfortable.

PICTURES COURTESY OF B&B ITALIA, AND NARDI

由於模組沙發充滿可能性,隨著空間大小、使用人數等 不同需求調整變化,延續去年的趨勢,模組沙發依舊受 人歡迎。而今夏的模組沙發設計得比過去更低更深更接 近地板,如同躺在巨大墊子上一般,如此調整顯得更輕 鬆悠閒。

TOP AND RIGHT: NARDI, KOMODO MODULAR SOFA, PRICE UPON REQUEST, NARDIOUTDOORUSA.COM LEFT PAGE: B&B ITALIA, RIBES SOFA, PRICE UPON REQUEST, BEBITALIA.COM/EN

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EGO PARIS, KAMA SECTIONAL WITH ARMREST, $6,120; OTTOMAN, $2,160; MODULAR QUATTRO TABLE, $7,000; JUNIPERHOUSE.COM

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WITH EARTH IN MIND More and more furniture companies have started making sustainability a part of their mission. Some brands, such as Mamagreen, use upcycled materials, while others, like Expormim and Kettal, use eco-friendly paint on their products. Both Royal Botania and Skagerak use wood from sustainable forests accredited by the World Wide Fund for Nature or Forest Stewardship Council. Make sure to select eco-friendly pieces for a stylish yet environmentally conscious home. 越 來越多品牌重視 環 境問題,有些開始運用回收材料 再 製 家 具, 如Mamagreen;改 用 友 善 環 境 的 噴 漆, 如Expormim;使 用世界自然 基 金 會(WWF)或 森 林 管 理 委員會(FSC)認 證 為永 續 林 木 的 木 材,如Royal Botania和Skagerak。也有品牌減少耗材、調整製程避 免虛耗能源,如Expormim、Kettal等。

PICTURES COURTESY OF EGO PARIS, MAMAGREEN, EXPORMIM, AND ROYAL BOTANIA

TOP RIGHT: EXPORMIM, LIVIT RIGHT SIDE MODULE WITH HIGH ARMREST, LEFT SIDE MODULE WITH HIGH ARMREST, FOOTSTOOL, PRICE UPON REQUEST; CLIMAOUTDOOR.NET MIDDLE RIGHT: ROYAL BOTANIA, ZIDIZ DINING TABLE, $9,680; JIVE CHAIR, $1,440; CASADESIGNGROUP.COM BOTTOM: MAMAGREEN, AIKO COMFORT MODULE ARMLESS, $4,000; AIKO 17" SQUARE ROLLING TABLE, $750; CURRANONLINE.COM

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ELITE HOME

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CROWN HEIGHTS BROWNSTONE BECOMING A LIGHT AND AIRY HOME 皇冠高地的「褐石建築」明亮輕盈之家 English text by Angela Feng | Chinese text by Ada Tian Photography by Francis Dzikowski/OTTO

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rownstones are a valuable commodity, and they are often considered the most beautiful architectural archetype in New York City. They make up some of the finest properties ever built, their timeless quality giving Brooklyn and other 19th-century residential enclaves a distinctive character and identity.

曼哈頓和布魯克林是紐約市最著名的「 褐石建築 」地帶。 「 褐石建築 」 (Brownstones),顧名思義,是用褐色的 石材以及紅磚建造的建築,起源於歐洲,19世紀工業革 命後傳入美國並在東部城市興盛開,曾居住在其中的多 是中產階級學者、知識分子等。這些「 褐石建築 」常有高 大的門廊,長長的窗戶和宏偉的入口。建築立面有著完美 的對稱性及令人愉悅的節奏。當夾道林蔭,掩映著優雅、 古樸的褐石建築,成為街區中的一道別樣風景線。 對於改建一座歷史感濃厚的住宅來說,其挑戰在於

Top: To balance the brightness of the tiles, the original inner door was re-hung and painted a deep gray. Left page: The entry vestibule is lined with playful, orangeyellow tiles from Brothers Cement Tile.

如何為使用者提供開敞、明亮的現代住宅的同時,保留建 築的歷史特徵。當然,與此同時,項目預算要控制在中產 可接受的範圍內。

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Top Right: This bedroom is adorned with a screen that exemplifies symmetry and balance.

These distinguished homes usually come with tall stoops, long windows, and majestic entryways. There is an enchanting harmony to their symmetry, especially when paired with venerable trees, flower boxes, and cast-iron railings. For historic homes, the challenge lies in retaining the property’s historic character while giving it the open and airy feel of a 21st-century abode. BFDO Architects PLLC, an award-winning firm based in New York, took on this challenge. In this Crown Heights brownstone, spaces are defined by built-in, graphic millwork compositions and vivid, three-dimensional color treatments, punctuated by skylights and fireplaces. The designers didn’t shy away from bold lighting choices, with fixtures sourced from Innermost, a company known for unique, contemporary pieces. Custom pieces are offset by budget choices, and new elements are balanced by the home’s original woodwork. The entryway is lined with playfully patterned orange-yellow tiles from Brothers Cement Tile. To balance the brightness of the tiles, the original inner door was re-hung and painted a deep gray. In the parlor, the original lead glass cabinet doors are mounted on new cabinet boxes that flank the gas fireplace. The second-f loor stairwell was widened to allow light from the large sculptural skylight to flow down to the dining room. A mellow, sky-blue wall provides a backdrop for the dining table and conceals the powder room lined with wallpaper from Calico.

Top: In the parlor, the original lead glass cabinet doors are mounted on new cabinet boxes that flank the gas fireplace. Bottom left: The windowed back wall of the kitchen overlooks a lush garden, and the room is lit by a large skylight. Bottom right: The second-floor stairwell was widened, allowing light from the large sculptural skylight to filter down to the dining room. Right page, top: Ikea boxes with gray and white doors make up the kitchen wall, and are intermixed with the walnut cabinetry lining the sides of the den. Right page, bottom left: In the study, the custom blue L-shaped bookshelf and walnut desk frame a view to the bustling streets. Right page, bottom right: The master bathroom features affordable subway wall tiles and porcelain flooring from Classic Tile.

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Gray and white Ikea shelves make up the kitchen wall, intermixed with the walnut cabinetry that lines the sides of the den. The windowed back wall overlooks a lush garden, and the room is brightly lit by a large skylight. Upstairs, the master bedroom overlooks a plantlined roof deck. Three of the walls are painted a clean white, giving the room an open and airy feel, while the deep blue-gray hue of the wall framing the bed adds an intimate touch. The master bathroom features an antique-gray stone slab as well as Waterworks fixtures and a custom walnut vanity, along with affordable subway wall tiles and porcelain flooring from Classic Tile. In the study, an L-shaped blue bookshelf and walnut desk frame the view of the bustling city streets.

紐 約 的 BFDO 建 築 事 務 所(BFDO Architects PLLC), 接 受 了 位 在 布 魯 克 林 皇 冠 高 地(Crown Heights) 「 褐石建 築區 」的一棟聯排別墅改 造翻新的 挑戰。建築師通過訂製設計和生動的色彩處理定義了空 間。貫穿整棟別墅,天窗、壁爐和大膽的照明選擇,都成 為空間劃分的重要元素。訂製件根據預算進行調整與選 擇,新元素與項目中的原始木製品相匹配。入口門廳選用 Brothers Cement Tile 的橙黃色瓷磚,為了平衡亮黃色 的瓷磚,將原來的內門漆成了深灰色。 在客廳,原有的玻璃櫥櫃門在翻新處理後,安裝在 壁爐兩側的新櫥櫃上。現有的樓梯井在二層處被拓寬後, 將頂部的天窗光線引入餐廳。天藍色的牆壁與天花板,為 餐桌界定出一個視覺上的獨立空間,並隱藏了其後的化 妝間。在廚房和酒吧,選用的宜家櫥櫃與訂製的灰色與白 色櫃門配套使用,同時與開敞的胡桃木櫥櫃搭配,或實 或虛,在立面形成富有韻律的視覺中心。面向內部庭院, 透過大面積的落地窗可俯瞰鬱鬱蔥蔥的花園,陽光通過 頂部的大型天窗灑入室內。 在頂樓,灰藍色的牆壁在主臥室形成一個超大的床

Top left: A deep-blue-gray wall frames the bed, giving the room an intimate atmosphere. Top right: The master bedroom opens onto a plant-filled roof deck—the perfect place to unwind after a long day. Right page: Modern yet classic, this timeless home is the perfect blend of elements both old and new.

頭板,落地窗將屋頂平台的綠植引入室內,為臥室營造了 平靜的休息氛圍。主浴室內側牆壁和地板瓷磚選用深灰 色,增強了空間的縱深感;兩側的白色牆壁與天花板則在 視覺上擴展了狹小的衛浴空間。胡桃木櫥櫃完美地平衡 了冷色調,為這個私密空間帶來一抹溫暖的色彩。

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ELITE HOME

East Meets West

FENG SHUI IN A MODERN KITCHEN 中西合璧 輕古典廚房設計 Text by Fenzhi Zhang | Photography by Ric Marder

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hen it comes to a Chinese-American household, the kitchen isn’t merely where cooking happens; it is also the center of family life. “The kitchen is the heart of a house,” says Lung-Shan (Shan) Chang, senior designer at Kitchen Designs by Ken Kelly, Inc. When a Chinese homeowner visited the Ken Kelly Showroom on Long Island, New York, two years ago and requested a kitchen that could integrate her culture into a modern design, Shan understood how important it was to make the kitchen function smoothly for cooking

兩年前,一位華人屋主偶然在微信群裡看到一個心儀的 廚房,經由朋友的介紹下認識了作品集的設計師,張榮 珊 (SHAN),隨之而來到了位於紐約長島的櫥櫃展示廳 Kitchen Designs by Ken Kelly。她期望設計師能幫她打 造一個溫馨而高雅的夢想廚房,不僅空間實用、容易收 納、動線流暢,同時也帶入博大精深的中華文化家居風水。 榮珊,Ken Kelly 高級展示廳的資深設計師說, 「廚 房是家的心臟。」身為華人,她深刻地理解廚房對於一個 中國家庭的意義——它是一個家庭凝聚情感,也是使用 頻率最高的空間。它不僅僅是一個男女主人揮灑廚藝, 為家人準備烹飪膳食的空間,也是孩子們課後烘培包水 餃、做作業、聊天,全家感情交流的地方,更是招待親

Top: The perimeter of this classic kitchen is lined with custom Sonoma-style cabinetry from the Ken Kelly Signature Collection. Chinese cultural elements are set against a bright Western-style kitchen, creating beautiful harmony between East and West.

朋好友的重要區域。 帶著這些細膩思維想法,榮珊精心地規劃設計了這 個廚房。採用半開放式設計,廚房通過頗具中式風格的

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Left: The base of the kitchen’s island features shadow-gray Pasadena cabinet detailing from the Ken Kelly custom WoodMode/Brookhaven line. With seating for both the dining area and the island, the kitchen can accommodate a wide range of occasions, from intimate two-person dinners to large social gatherings.

ADVERTORIAL

Right: Lung-Shan (Shan) Chang, senior designer at Kitchen Designs by Ken Kelly, Inc, an interior designer with 20 years’ experience.

and dining, while at the same time having it mirror the Chinese homeowner’s taste and culture. She worked with the homeowner to create a design that incorporated feng shui, an ancient and unique Asian architectural tradition that harmonizes individuals with their surrounding environment and provides a balanced flow of good energy. To connect the living room and kitchen in a harmonious and seamless way, Shan framed the kitchen entryway with a hollowed-out screen adorned with an ancient Chinese coin pattern, which is composed of a square inscribed in a circle. In Chinese culture, a circle represents heaven, while a square represents earth. A square within a circle represents the union of heaven and earth. According to feng shui principles, using this coin pattern brings good fortune and abundance to the home. Shan also utilized Thassos marble for the center backsplash and custom-cut Cambria stone for surfaces. The marbling in the backsplash, reminiscent of traditional Chinese watercolor paintings, serves as a subtle yet beautiful backdrop for the kitchen. Beyond reflecting the homeowner’s Chinese cultural background, the kitchen offers great function. It cleverly maximizes space, allowing the room to accommodate a wide range of occasions, from intimate two-person dinners to large social gatherings. “I want it to be functional and beautiful from every corner,” says Shan. Indeed, even with the detailed attention to aesthetics, Shan never forgot about the function of the kitchen; every inch of the space was thoroughly accounted for. Shan designed this kitchen so that it functions specifically for this family’s use while, at the same time, stunningly presenting every detail. The Chinese

cultural elements set against a bright, Western-style kitchen come together to create beautiful harmony between East and West. KITCHEN DESIGNS BY KEN KELLY, INC.

516.746.3435 26 Hillside Avenue, Williston Park, NY kitchendesigns.com

「 古銅錢 」屏風和客廳相連。 這樣的設計處理,一方面 對空間進行了分區,同時鏤空的「 古銅錢 」屏風設計讓 客廳和廚房相互呼應,實現流暢地無縫連接。 透 過 屏 風, 一 個 明 亮 的 輕 古 典 廚 房, 優 雅 地 呈 現 眼 前。 白 色 高 雅 的 櫥 櫃, 來 自 Ken Kelly 經 典 系 列(Signature Collection), 灰 色 淡 雅 的 中 島, 來 自 Brookhaven。目光穿過中島時,不禁被大理石台面和廚 房上櫃之間的背牆所吸引。明明是廚房常用的 Cambria 石材,卻呈現出一幅山巒連綿、水波蕩漾的中國寓意山水 畫。這種西方人工石材打造出的東方「 水墨 」意境,是如 何實現的呢 ? 榮珊表示,當她得知屋主選用 Cambria 石 材時就開始思考「 如何突顯它的花紋特質?」 「 在哪兒切 割?」 「 台面厚度要有多少?」, 「 會剩下哪些料 」、 「 剩料 又如何能夠拼成連結的紋路?」帶著這些問題,她用紙模 型細心拼出了心中構想的「 水墨山水畫 」。巧妙地利用 了 Cambria 石材上的紋路,榮珊讓廚房如同有著漂浮在 空氣中的流暢音符,並釋放出令人愉悅輕鬆的古典樂音。 整個廚房不僅視覺上處處是亮點,流轉其中的人文 關懷和文化元素更令人感動。 「 外圓內方 」的銅錢圖形屏 風,在中國風水中寓意天地融合,陰陽平衡。清靈高雅 的水墨山水背牆,可以興振家居氣場,營造富貴和諧, 家庭圓滿的風水。

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ELITE TRAVEL

千仞崗上放飛心靈 特柳賴德鋼索棧道

Free Spirit Meets Practical Ingenuity A Sheer 300-Foot Drop Tests Hikers’ Mettle on Telluride’s Via Ferrata

English text by Channaly Philipp Chinese text translated by Yi-Chun Lin

minutes, you’re stopping and catching up with someone. Its small-town character is preserved in part thanks to Mountain Village, located a short gondola ride away. This is where resorts, hotels, and fancy homes—and parking lots and garages—have created a big footprint, taking some of the lodging pressure off Telluride. The call of the outdoors here is irresistible for locals as well as visitors. Mountains border the canyon where Telluride is located on three sides, and trails meander off in every direction. One hike that’s become immensely popular is the Via Ferrata, which was completed in 2007. In Europe, these “iron ways” dot the Alps, originally allowing troops during World War I to move across challenging vertical terrain, with the help of anchors such as steel cables or ladders.

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

T

his is a town of tinkerers and inventors, where free spirit meets practical ingenuity. Thanks to Nikola Tesla, local lore has it that Telluride’s street lights were the first ones in the world to be illuminated by alternate current. Miners, who dwelled up in high country above the town, saw their cabins illuminated by light bulbs. It was also here that Butch Cassidy took an innovative turn in his thinking, departing from his usual horse stealing to rob his first bank. Telluride is tiny: population 2,444, 8 blocks by 12 blocks, the length of which is easily traversed on foot in 20 minutes. Walking down its main street, with its Victorian facades and clapboard storefronts, it’s amazing that even with the floods of visitors, it feels like such a small town. An uninterrupted walk may take 20 minutes, but locals know it takes much longer: Every few 86│

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特柳 賴 德(Telluride) 是 美 國 科 羅 拉 多 州 聖 米 格 爾 縣的一 個小鎮,鎮 上礦工與發明家輩出,他們帶 著自 由意志,在 此實踐創造力。 小 而 美 的 特 柳 賴 德, 人 口 僅 2, 4 4 4 人,8 至 12 個 街 區 櫛 次 鱗 比, 大 約 只 需 20 分 鐘 的 腳 程 就 能 穿 越 它們。走在 主要 街道 上,隨 處可見 維多利亞 式的建 築 門 面與店面。令人 驚 訝 的是,儘 管遊客如 織,這 裡 仍讓人感覺自成小天地。 它的「 小鎮 」氣質能夠與世 獨立,還得感 謝車行 不久 便 能 抵 達 的 山 村(Mountain Village) —— 一 個度假村、酒店和 高檔住宅 聚集的地方。很多遊客 都 在 這個山村過夜,為特柳賴德分擔了不少人流和車流。 對當地 人 或 外 來 遊 客而言,這 裡「 野 外 的 呼 喚 」 讓 人 難 以 抗拒。特柳 賴 德 所在的 峽谷,三面 環山,步 道 蜿 蜒其中,最受歡 迎的,莫過於 2007 年完工的「 鋼 索棧 道 」( Via Ferrata)。 這 種「 鋼 鐵 步 道 」 多散 布 在 歐 洲 阿 爾 卑 斯 山 脈 區, 原 本 是 一 戰 時, 為了 方 便 軍 隊 在 嚴 峻 的 垂 直 地 勢 上 移 動, 而 建 造 的 鋼 索 與 階 梯。 在 美 國, 這 種 步 道 十 分 罕 見。 登 山 傳 奇 人 物 恰 克 · 克 羅 格(Chuck Kroger) 在 特 柳 賴 德 建 造了水平 式「 鋼 索 棧 道 」。 克 羅 格 去世 後, 他 的 朋 友 決 定 為 他 繼 續 完 成 棧 道 路 線,聊 表敬 意。消息走漏 後,林 務局當 時 的反 應竟 是 勒 令停止,可是 這條 路 線已 經不是當地 的 祕 密,反而 成為了健 行路 線,迫使林務局最終 選擇了原地保留。 陶 德 · 拉 特 利 奇 經 營「 山 旅 」(M ountain Trip) 導 覽 服 務 公司, 每 年 會 為 30 至 300 名 健 行 者提 供服務。

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

攀爬「 鋼 索 棧 道 」並 沒有太多的 技 術 問 題,只要

In the United States, they are rare; in Telluride, a local climbing legend, Chuck Kroger—another free spirit—started building a horizontal Via Ferrata. He passed away but friends decided in tribute to finish up the route for him. When word of this route reached the Forest Service at the time, the reaction was to shut it down. But during the time it took for the agency to come to a decision, the route only grew more popular, going from a local secret to a destination. The local Forest Service now supports keeping it in place. Todd Rutledge, who runs the guiding service Mountain Trip, said that his company went from guiding 30 to 300 hikers a year. The Via Ferrata doesn’t require a great deal of technical ability—being reasonably fit is enough—but it does require some gear and lots of mental chutzpah. A guide is highly recommended.

基 本裝置 足夠即可——但仍需要一些滾 輪,還有強大 的冒 險 精神,最 好 再 帶上一名嚮 導!攀 索 兼具體 力與 強 韌 的心 智,「 這 是 件 艱 難 的 挑 戰,你要 試 著解 決 迫 在 眉睫 的問題:邁向下一 個抓 點,同時克 服害怕 摔 落 的恐 懼,這是很真實又很撼人的。」拉特利奇說。 在 鋼 索 棧 道 上, 高 密 集 的 體 力 勞 動 與 尋 找 下一 個 抓 點 並不成問題——「 恐 懼 」才是最根源的問題。 拉特利奇曾帶人攀登阿拉斯加州的德 納利(Denali) 與 阿 根 廷 的 阿 空 加 瓜(Aconcagua) 兩 座 巨岳, 但 他仍說 : 「 我還是每次都感到緊張!」 要 抵 達 鋼 索 棧 道, 首先 得 驅 車 駛 出 小 鎮, 接 著 美 麗 的 健 行步道便出現在眼前,直到驚心動魄的「 鋼 索棧 道 」終於 映 入眼 簾——越走步道 越發狹窄,僅有 1 英 尺 寬( 約 30.48 公 分), 終至 消 失。 岩 面 露 出 的 四周,設 立了一 張 紀 念克 羅傑 的 凳子,站 在 這 裡,彷 彿踏進了虛無縹緲中。 拉 特 利 奇 與 另 一 位 嚮 導 指 導 我 們 這 群人 如 何 運 │87

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Rock climbing is equal parts physical and mental, Rutledge says: “It’s hard work. You’re trying to solve a problem that’s in front of your face—moving to the next hold—and overcoming the fear of falling, which is real and powerful.” On the Via Ferrata, intense physical hardship and finding the next hold aren’t issues. But that “primal aspect,” the fear, is still there. Rutledge has guided climbs to Denali and Aconcagua, but he says, “I still get butterflies every time.” It starts with a short drive out of town, and a beautiful hike taking in the views, until you come to what’s called the “main event”—where the trail, which had been narrowing by and by from about a foot in width, simply disappears. Around a rocky outcrop, where a bench in honor of Kroger has been installed, it looks like you’re about to step into the void. Rutledge is there with another of his guides, tutoring our small group in how to negotiate the main event. Each of us is harnessed, donning helmets and carrying a lanyard and two locking carabiners that are used to clip onto the steel cable. The cable runs horizontally along the route, fastened to the rock in segments. The key is to use one hand to clip one carabiner onto the cable, and then the other, and to not clip off both carabiners at the same time. At regular intervals, iron rungs provide a hold for the hands and (most of the time) a perch for the feet. With a big breath, I step onto an iron rung. Below is a 324-foot drop into nothingness. My mouth goes dry— and it would stay that way during the entire hike. Everyone’s mental journey on the Via Ferrata is different. Ruminations on life and the afterlife, the silly urge to take a selfie, reflections on how we take solid ground for granted. All of these go through my mind at some point, and then, start to fade away. All that matters is the next step forward. “Clip on, clip off” becomes a chant in my head. It comes in the voice of Mr. Miyagi from The Karate Kid. The guy climbing in front of me thinks it is funny. “Clap on, clap off!” he says cheerfully. Except, God forbid—if you fell here, you wouldn’t get up again. In one spot, it takes the entire length of my nearly 5-footshort body, on tippy toes with arms outstretched, to reach both the upper and lower rungs. After a while, I forget that a bit of metal is all that is standing between me and a vertiginous drop. Clip on, clip off, clip on, clip off. It is like driving, with the drop becoming part of my peripheral vision, in the rearview

用身心,參 與這場 挑 戰。鋼索 沿 著路 線 水平設 置,一 節一節 地緊捱 著 岩壁。我們每人都 繫上攀索 安 全帶, 戴 好 安全帽,攜可嵌牢鋼索的挽索,還有扣式登山鉤。 攀 索 的 竅 門 是 用 一 隻 手 拿 著 登 山 鉤 扣 上 鋼 索, 此 時 另一隻手不能同時卸下登山鉤。鐵梯則會在規律 的間距上給手與高懸的腳提供抓點( 大部分時候 )。 我 深 呼 吸 一 口, 踩 上 一 階 鐵 梯;腳 底 下 有 324 英尺深。在 整 個健 行過 程中,嘴唇 逐 漸 變 得乾涸 ⋯⋯ 每 個 人在 鋼 索 棧 道 上 的 感 受 都 不 同:沉 思今 生 與 身 後、想 要自拍 的不明之舉、反省 我們 對平地 的司空見 慣等。這些 想法不約而同地 跑 進 腦海中,俄 頃又開始 消逝。關乎己身的,只剩下一步該如何往前。 「 扣 上、 扣 下」(Clip on - clip of f) 宮 城 成 義 (M r. Miyagi) 在 電 影《小 子 難 纏 》(The Karate Kid) 中 的 聲 音出 現, 成了腦 海 中 揮 之不 去 的 歌。 爬 在 我 前 面 的 男子 覺 得 很 有 趣,「 拍 亮、 拍 暗 」(Clap on, clap of f,clap 與 clip 有 聲 音上 的 雙 關 ), 他 語氣歡快地說。 某方面 而言,「 鋼索 棧 道 」讓 我感 覺有點 像 孤軍 作 戰,因為這件 事 很需要集中精神,但是 也有意想 不 到的一方面,那就是攀爬小團 隊中發展出的友情。 「 這是一個很酷的經驗分享 」,拉特利奇稍後告訴 我,「 脆弱的分享是有意思的。我們正將自己置身於一 個完全不自然的地方,所以我們會比平常更為脆弱。」 「 命 運 」 在 鋼 索 棧 道 上 幾 乎 無 法 發 揮 作 用, 有 人 決 定 打 破 常 規 不 繫 挽 索、 不 戴 頭 盔。 拉 特 利 奇 表 示, 曾 有人 這 麼 做 過, 他 宛 如 看 著 一 隻 土 撥 鼠 在 上 方亂 動,心中期 盼 岩石不會因此落下⋯⋯ 總而言之,整場 「 棧 道項目 」最多僅持續 15 分鐘, 但它卻像 過了永恆之久。 最 後 一 小 段 攀 升 時, 我 已 經 變 成 一 隻 軟 腳 蝦。 突 然 之 間, 好 像 被 9 千英 尺 的 高 度 擊 垮, 每 一 步 都 沉 重。 即 使 如 此, 眼 前 的 美 景 與 興 奮 之 情 依 舊 令人興奮。 回到 鎮 上。當我要走回酒店時,一路上 氣不 接下 氣,我 發現自己每 經 過 一 個 街 區,就 得 停 下來 坐著。 ( 特柳賴德,謝謝這裡 所有的凳子!)

Previous page: Telluride's Via Ferrata takes hikers across 600 feet of rocky façade and over a 300-foot drop. (Josh King Photography) Right page: Telluride's main street, Colorado Avenue. (Courtesy of Visit Telluride)

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mirror of a car. You can’t drive using just a rearview mirror; you’ve gotta keep your eyes on the road. In some ways, the Via Ferrata can feel a bit like a solitary enterprise—that’s because there’s a lot of internal focus. But an unexpected side is the camaraderie that develops in a small group. “It’s a pretty powerful shared experience,” Rutledge tells me later. “There’s something about the shared vulnerability. We are all putting ourselves in a place that’s wholly unnatural, and we’re much more vulnerable than in our normal lives.” There have been zero fatalities on the Via Ferrata, although there are mavericks who decide to do it without harness and without helmet. Rutledge recalls one such man who did that. Rutledge saw a

marmot somewhere above him, fiddling, and hoped rocks wouldn’t fall. All in all, the whole main event must have lasted 15 minutes at most. It felt like an eternity. A small descent is still ahead, and physical sensations, which had been more or less suspended during the main event, come f looding back to my body. My legs turn to jelly. Suddenly it is as if the altitude (about 9,000 feet) hits me. Ever y step becomes heavy. But it doesn’t take away from the beautiful views or from the feeling of elation—I can hardly believe what I’ve just accomplished. Back in town, on my walk back to the hotel, out of breath, I find myself having to stop to sit down at every block. (Thank you, Telluride, for all those benches!) │89

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WILD GINGER

Denny Triangle Contemporary Southeast Asian-inspired design to create an elegant, yet casually sophisticated setting 尋「味」西雅圖 邂逅東南亞 English text by Angela Feng| Chinese text by Astrid Wang Photography by Ben Benschneider, Hannah Rankin, and Drit Shoemaker

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A

t roughly 4,600 square feet, Wild Ginger’s Denny Triangle location in Seattle seats 140 in a mix of formal dining, exhibition dining, and bar seating. The restaurant is the third full-service Wild Ginger, which first opened in downtown Seattle in 1989. The design captures an aesthetic that merges Asian-inspired cultural influences with contemporary design to create an elegant, yet casually sophisticated setting for the celebration of food and friends.

Wild Ginger最新分店座落於西雅圖「Denny Triangle」 地區,在大約4,600平方英尺的空間中,設有140席的 座位,包含正式的用餐場所、開放式座位以及吧檯區。 此餐廳店面設計融合了亞洲風格的文化元素與當代設 計,打造出既別緻又愜意的空間。

Top: A view of the open dining room. Left page: The reception and waiting area.

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View through the bar featuring the cantilevered custom light fixture.

Left: Beaubien Double Shade light by Lambert & Fils Studio, with patinated copper paneling in the backdrop. Right: A custom-made, live-edge table from San Juan Ventures and wooden stools from Allmodern are set against a double-height wall adorned with patinated copper paneling.

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Wild Ginger's fresh bar, with suar wood top and porcelain tile kitchen wall.

For Denny Triangle, the design continues the evolution of the rest­aurant’s brand, taking advantage of the large space to capture an aesthetic that’s spare and natural yet rich and sophisticated. Wood slats, turned on edge, f loat above the bar area to define an area within the restaurant and its 20-foot-high voluminous ceilings. Eighty handmade globe lights from Bocci are suspended above the central bar on custom steel armature that hangs from the 20-foothigh ceiling above. This strong spatial element helps define the space and reduce the sense of volume, while at the same time catching the eye from both inside and outside the restaurant. The dining experience is heightened further by the direct connection to the kitchen, which allows energy from the kitchen to permeate the bar area and vice versa. Natural materials are employed throughout, including Indonesian suar wood, which is used for table and bar tops; leather seating; patinated copper for wall paneling; chiseled granite tiles that wrap the kitchen area; and matte polished concrete f loors. A small,

outside, covered patio will expand the space during seasonable weather. Roman shades along the exterior window walls visually reference sliding screens and functionally help control light in the restaurant. 在「Denny Triangle」一帶,店內設計利用開闊的 空間體現自然而不造作的美感。如大片的木製長條,條 條側立於餐廳吧檯區的正上方,挑高20英尺。其下裝飾 以知名燈飾品牌Bocci的80件球狀手工吊燈,懸掛於吧 檯上空訂製的長型電樞鋼條上。該設計有效劃分空間並 削減了空曠感。無論從室外瞥見,或於室內觀賞,這些 吊燈皆是非常吸睛的元素。 該店整體設計皆採用天然原料,例如餐廳內所有餐 桌以及吧檯檯面皆採用印尼的雨木;皮製的座椅;銅青 作為牆板;烹飪區外圍的花崗岩圍牆;拋光的混凝土地 板以及裝飾於特定牆面的手繪有機圖樣。 餐廳的主導設計師Kyle Gaffney說道:「 我們為能 完成如此設計感到自豪。Denny Triangle的社區充滿活 力,你可以透過聽覺、視覺以及嗅覺去感受。這燈籠似 的酒吧以至開放式廚房的設計概念,同樣展現了這份活 躍感。」 │93

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醫療健康領域投資好機會 近年來,美國的醫療健康行業,無論是在就業還是在商業盈利 方面,表現都很亮麗。一些投資機構也抓住這個機會,準備在 美國的醫療健康領域大展身手。SanRock Holdings Group 投資諮詢和基金管理公司就是在此背景下成立的。SanRock Holdings Group是 由OSKAR Consulting公 司 總 裁Robert Kim,與在美國和韓國的投資高手崔聖洛聯合創立。 金先生出生在醫生世家,自小就在家族的醫療企業中耳濡 目染,對美國的醫療企業運作非常熟悉,也對該領域新的商業 機會非常敏感。他介紹目前 SanRock Holdings Group 旗下 有七個投資方向,第一是手術型醫院和普通醫院;第二是加盟 診所;第三是療養院;第四是東方醫學大學;第五是老人院; 第六是人工智慧遠端診斷系統;第七是醫療設備進出口。 金先生說,「 這些項目有些是已經建成的項目,有些已經 進入計劃或執行階段,投資人可以從小額投資加盟,最少 5 萬美金。這意味著,投資人可以擁有這些醫療項目的股權, SanRock Holdings Group 保證年投資回報率在 7% 或更高。」 金先生還說,「 我們的合作夥伴崔聖洛先生具有多年運作 大額資本的經驗,注重『 產融 』結合,投資專注於選擇資產豐 實和業務能力紮實的公司,從而保證投資人的投資穩健度。除 了具有回報豐厚的項目資源,SanRock Holdings Group 給予 投資人靈活的退出機制,投資人可隨時退出,並拿回本金。」 SanRock Holdings Group 嚴格按照美國的法規運作, Robert Kim,OSKAR Consulting公司總裁

任何交易都需要有律師陪伴投資者簽署協議。同時 SanRock Holdings Group 擁有實業經驗豐富的專家團隊,可協助項目

Robert Kim畢業於紐約 Stony Brook 大學生物系,畢

實現快速發展,從而最大限度地幫助投資人,實現更高的投資

業後參與家族企業運營,兩年前自立門戶成立 OSKAR

回報。

Consulting。 OSKAR Consulting 在紐約成功運營 大型醫療結構,熟悉醫療健康行業的法律法規,對美國醫 療行業的融資和資金運作具有多年的實戰經驗。

( 本文內容不代表本刊立場、觀點。)

崔 聖 洛 2 0 1 5 年 曾 參 加 韓 國 投 資 公 司 Ta u r u s

Investment & Securities Co., Ltd. 主辦 的 韓 國 投 資 大 會,榮 膺 頭 等 大 獎,並 被 納 入 麾 下 成 為 基 金 經 理。 之 前, 他 亦 在 韓 國 著 名 的 證 券 公 司 —— 教 保 證 券 在韓國創造了多個投資傳奇。

SanRock Holdings Group 投資諮詢和基金管理公 司,現有絕佳投資機會,既返還本金又能保證年獲利 7 % 以上。投資額 5萬美金起,小額另洽談。

詳情請諮詢SanRock Holdings Group 英文 Robert Kim, 212-203-2071 中文 347- 622-3423, 718-517- 0394 地址:法拉盛北方大道 137-81 2樓,Flushing,NY 11354

ADVERTORIAL

(KYOBO)——任職,成功運營了1兆 2千億韓元的資本,

94│

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醫療健康 您投資的新方向 SanRock Holdings Group 醫療健康行業一直是美國的支柱產業,投資回報穩定。

SanRock Holdings Group的投資高手和美國醫療健康行家聯手, 將帶給華人投資者新機會,投資額 $50,000 起,

保證年投資回報率在 7% 或更高,小額投資者別錯過。 SanRock Holdings Group投資項目

手術型醫院和普通醫院 ◆ 加盟診所 ◆ 療養院 ◆ 東方醫學大學 ◆

老人院 ◆ 人工智能遠程診斷系統 ◆ 進出口醫療設備 ◆

電話:Robert Kim, 212-203-2071( 英文 )/ 347-622-3423, 718-517-0394( 中文 ) 地址:法拉盛北方大道 137-81 2樓,Flushing,NY 11354

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ELITE Magazine May-June 2019 West edition