E L I TE 時 尚 精 英
World-Class Masterpiece Comes to Auction 古典油畫大師布格羅家傳鉅作
The Qipao
初夏時尚 美妝大獎 名作拍賣 戶外家居 優尚府邸
穿越百年的東方風韻 MAY-JUNE 2019
Becoming a Light and Airy Home 「 褐石建築 」明亮輕盈之家
Feng Shui in a Modern Kitchen 中西合璧 輕古典廚房設計
On the Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療 喚醒青春密碼
2019 Pre-summer Fashion
ISSUE 38
Beautiful at Every Age
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May-June 2019 $6.99
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目錄 CONTENTS 4
Editor’ s Note 採編隨筆
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Editor’ s Pick: Flat-Out Fabulous
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Editor’ s Pick: Wear This on the Weekend
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Beautiful at Every Age
五月天 平底鞋 週末時尚單品 美麗不分年齡
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La Prairie | Illumination from Within 精緻亮白 由內而外
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World-Class Masterpiece Comes to Auction 古典油畫大師布格羅家傳鉅作 5月蘇富比上拍
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The Qipao: A Stylish Embodiment of Chinese Tradition and Grace 旗袍： 穿越百年的東方風韻
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On the Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療喚醒青春密碼
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ELITE 2019 Beauty Awards: Makeup & Fragrance 《時尚精英》2019年度最佳化妝品和最佳香水大獎
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Roscommon House 花園居所 與社區對話
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Spring Outdoor Living: Top Trends Spotted at the IMM Cologne 2019 2019春夏戶外家居流行趨勢 Becoming a Light and Airy Home 「褐石建築」明亮輕盈之家
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East Meets West: Feng Shui in a Modern Kitchen 中西合璧 輕古典廚房設計
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Free Spirit Meets Practical Ingenuity 千仞崗上放飛心靈 特柳賴德鋼索棧道
COVER
Photographer: Ronald Ji Model: Kuynh Chi at Fenton Model Management Stylist: Marisa Ellison Makeup: Jonathan Wu Hair: Koji Ichikawa
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量身修护
保湿
补水
我们的肌肤时常都在变化着，而且肌肤的特点也各有不同。由 世界著名的美容开拓专家Dr Jean-Louis Sebagh，率先研发出 针对不同肌肤的特点，将以上3种获奖护肤精华混合后使用，可 令肌肤增添无暇的透润光彩。3种精华也可单独使用。 为亮润紧实饱满的肌肤，及时深层的保湿补水和快速有效的抵 抗环境的污染尤为重要。将玫瑰特效活妍精露深層滋润精华与 含抗氧化深层滋養的玫瑰果油，一起来混合富含透明質酸的高 效保湿除纹精华一起使用后，可令肌肤瞬间增添无限的饱满紧 实水亮的光润质感。
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抗衰
亮白
加入几滴抗老化的英雄-臻颜极致精萃混合使用时，其 内含95%的青春活性因子-白藜蘆醇和三種抗衰老肽， 可瞬间在肌肤表皮形成强大的保护层。其中礦物光澤助 推劑和抗污染薄膜可有效的抵抗因环境污染对肌肤造成 的伤害。 这款荣获专利的稳定性高的美白维他命C粉霜，与任何 精华混合使用后，不仅可以快速提亮肌肤，同时防止色 素沉着，可有效的恢复肌肤的亮透润白质感。 可在专卖店或网上购买drsebagh.com
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Beautiful
at Every Age
Beauty has no age. It is found in the eye of the beholder. Behind the physical features are the innate qualities that constitute beauty—confidence, elegance, and modesty.
Beauty begins the moment you decide to be yourself. " — Coco Chanel
「 美麗，從決定做自己的那一刻開始。」 —— 可可·香奈兒
Photographer: Ronald Ji Model: Kuynh Chi at Fenton Model Management Makeup: Jonathan Wu Hair: Koji Ichikawa Stylist: Marisa Ellison Location: Bryant Park, New York
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DAY LOOK
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Blossom by day and dazzle by night
TOP AND SHORTS BY ADEAM PEARL NECKLACE, STUD EARRINGS, AND RING BY MIKIMOTO HANDBAG BY MARK CROSS HAT BY CLYDE
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ELITE CULTURE
A Stylish Embodiment of Chinese Tradition and Grace 旗袍 穿越百年的東方風韻 English text translated by Jenny Zhi | Chinese text by Fenzhi Zhang
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he qipao’s sleek and elegant form is an image widely associated with Chinese style and aesthetic. And beyond that, this traditional dress serves as a physical record of the historic and cultural changes during China’s 20th century. The qipao represents a rich cultural heritage and a sophisticated, intricate artistic custom.
遠看是一道風景，近看是一種風情，細看處處都是功 夫，這就是旗袍，一款中國風濃郁的經典服飾。 在很多西方人眼中，旗袍無疑是東方服飾文化和美 學的典型代表。其實，旗袍是中西文化兼容並蓄的經典 範例。 在共產黨統治的中國教育語言中，中華人民共和國 建立之前的「 民國時期 」被描繪為腐敗、 灰暗、民不聊 生。但實際上，這是一個大師層出不窮的年代，一段東
THE BIRTH OF AN ICONIC GARMENT The origins of the qipao lie in the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), when China was under the rule of the Manchus, an ethnic group that brought their own distinctive customs and clothing to the imperial court.
西方文化真正交融碰撞的歷史，一個中國傳統文化儒雅 優美的時代。恰恰就是在這個時代，旗袍風尚在中國達 至頂峰，塑造了中國近代女裝最輝煌絢麗的歷史。 今天，人們談到旗袍，往往早已超越了服飾本身。 它是一種深具魅力的文化，一個繁複講究的工藝體系， 一種具有獨特東方韻味的美學表現。如果把旗袍僅僅看 作一款可以勾勒女性曲線的裙裝，則是對旗袍的誤讀。
Right page: Anna May Wong, the first Asian-American Hollywood actress. Anna May Wong’s qipao features a contrasting border that adorns the lapel, collar, sleeves, slit, and hem. (Photo by Keystone/Hulton Archive/Getty Images)
它雖然借鑒了西方服飾的剪裁和型態，但脫胎於中國傳 統文化的底蘊讓它別具東方韻味。這種「 韻 」才是旗袍 之美的核心。
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For women, this was a long dress with a straight, relaxed fit that flared slightly at the hem. This dress was the first ancestor of the qipao. Over time, these Manchu-style dresses were influenced by elements of Han fashion. And in the 20th century, as Western learning grew in popularity in post-imperial China, the qipao began to move away from its long and relaxed fit. At the request of wealthy, educated, and fashion-forward young women, private Chinese tailors began to apply Western tailoring techniques, such as chest and waist darts and shoulder seams, to the loose-fitting qipao, giving it a flattering fitted silhouette. As tailors continued to incorporate more elements of Western fashion into the qipao throughout the 1930s, the dress began to settle into the style we are familiar with today. A FASHION PHENOMENON In the thirty-some years of the Republic of China (1912–1949), ideas were freely exchanged between East and West. This led to a blending of tradition
中西並蓄的經典設計 關於旗袍的起源，有一種說法，旗袍乃「 旗人之袍 」， 肇始於清朝滿族婦女的連衣裙式寬鬆長服，後來受漢人 服飾影響，逐漸改良。 滿族婦女的旗袍，款型平直寬鬆，下擺較為肥大。 20 世紀初，隨著西學東漸的過程，旗袍吸收了西方製衣 的立體剪裁，開始使用胸省、腰省、裝袖和肩縫的縫紉 技術，在長袍中加入了縮腰、胸褶、接袖等，從而將平 直寬鬆的款型，轉換為收腰合體的曲線衣型。 清朝之後的民國期間，「 旗袍 」最早在上海風行， Top: Two Manchurian women sport the long, loose-fitting dresses that were in style during the Qing Dynasty. (Courtesy of The New York Public Library Digital Collections)
最終成為頗具代表的中國女性服飾。早期，民國的女子 們穿著布鞋和平底皮鞋搭配旗袍。從 20 世紀 30 年代 開始，隨著高跟鞋逐漸流行，民國女子開始用它和旗袍
Bottom: The last imperial couple of China, the emperor Puyi (right) sitting with the empress Wan Rong (left). Wan Rong is wearing a short-sleeve embroidered qipao. She came from a wealthy background and received a Western education prior to becoming empress. Rumor says she disliked the loose fit and thick construction of the traditional Qing Dynasty qipao, so she asked her personal tailor Li Chunfang to redesign it using Western techniques. (Public Domain)
搭配。右圖中，最右邊女子，身著的旗袍為三、四十年 代頗為流行的大格子印花面料；中間女子的旗袍為花卉 圖案，有深色滾邊；最左邊的女子穿了絲襪搭配旗袍。 在 20 世紀 30 年代的民國，旗袍款式基本穩定下 來。彼時的私家裁縫們，將西式時裝的元素，注入到追 求流行的民國女子的旗袍中，使這種中西文化並蓄的裙
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Starting in the 1930s, high-heeled shoes rose in popularity to complement the qipao. (Photo by Keystone/Getty Images)
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ELITE PEOPLE
Moreen Liao on the
Healing Powers of Mother Earth 五行與芳療喚醒青春密碼 English text by Irene Luo Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Banny Zhang
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escending from a line of traditional Chinese medicine doctors, Moreen Liao grew up in Taiwan surrounded by medicinal herbs and fragrant f lowers in her family’s garden. Moreen’s mother used herbs and f lowers for every imaginable purpose: from cooking nutrient-rich cuisine to concocting medicine to brewing wine, like osmanthus and rose wines with special revitalizing properties. Immersed as she was in the scents of different flowers and herbs, Moreen acquired a keen sense of smell. “It’s to the point that sometimes, when I smell a scent, I will recall meeting someone over 10 years ago, or a certain garden where I smelled this scent, or someone who used a perfume with this particular fragrance,” Moreen said.
光潔柔嫩的肌膚不僅是愛美人士的畢生追求，也是保養 品牌的生存之道。吹彈可破的肌膚需要從內而外養成， 青春的密碼可從東西方傳統醫療的智慧中得到解答。 Ausganica 保養原理依循五行、五感與五臟彼此呼應， 結合有機芳療香氛，從內改善本體精氣神，外在肌膚自 然白裡透紅。 當 Ausganica 創 辦 人 廖 曉 倩 談 到 她 最 喜 歡 的 Ausganica 產品—Rose Elixir，我的眼睛為之一亮， 不僅因為其中有 著 一百零八種 植物萃 取，提 供皮 膚所 需的高濃度營養，完全是「Skin Super Food 」的概 念：抗氧化、消炎、抗 過 敏、保濕、抗自由基、滋養、 增 強 免 疫力、維 持 彈力、保濕 補 水。當你 的 體 內 攝 取 營養失衡，這些植物萃取 就能夠成為維持外在肌膚健 康的最佳補給，隨時維持肌膚狀態與預防老化。 家中幾代都製作中草藥也能 配 藥方，廖曉倩從小 就懂得「 藥食同源 」，父母細心照 顧 的花園，讓 她發
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After moving out of her parents’ home for boarding school, she would buy a bundle of flowers every weekend to brighten her room. This weekly routine inspired her love for aromatherapy, which uses extracts from plants, called essential oils, to ease stress and anxiety and uplift one’s mood. She imbues her Australia-based beauty brand, Ausganica, with a similar philosophy: to fill one’s life with nature’s beauty, aromas, and nourishing properties. Every ingredient in Ausganica’s products is all-natural and plant-based, so no harmful chemicals enter your body. The company uses over 300 certified organic ingredients, including over 250 active botanicals carefully extracted from the roots, flowers, fruits, or leaves of different plants around the world. Moreen’s personal favorite product is Rose Elixir, which is infused with 108 organic botanicals to nourish and revitalize the skin, making it more radiant, toned, and supple. “It’s like a superfood for skin,” Moreen says. And it also helps the skin resist environmental stressors like pollution, free radicals, oxidization, and UV rays. A key component of Rose Elixir is hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid holds water, making the skin hydrated and plump. It is actually found naturally in the skin, but as humans age, our skin has less and less of it, which is why it features prominently in many skin care products. The hyaluronic acid used in Ausganica products is fermented from beetroot and wheat and has extremely small molecules, thus allowing it to penetrate the skin more effectively. This natural form of hyaluronic acid can cost over a thousand times more than the synthetic form. In the formulations at Ausganica, Moreen unites the efficacy of Western herbs with the wisdom of traditional Chinese medicine. In contrast to Western medicine, which views the body as a collection of individual parts, traditional Chinese medicine sees the human body as a set of interconnected systems that maintain health by balancing opposing energies and the natural flow of the body’s vital energy. Thus, traditional Chinese medicine adopts a holistic approach that emphasizes preventing illnesses before they manifest. As such, Moreen is a strong advocate for meditation to promote health and wellness. “A lot of times, when I’m really tired, the best rest is meditation,” she says. Moreen practices a traditional Chinese meditation discipline called Falun Dafa, which unites five physical exercises with a moral philosophy based on truthfulness,
compassion, and tolerance. In this day and age, people are increasingly bustling about, bombarded by appointments and commitments and stress-inducing circumstances. Falun Dafa, Moreen says, “helps me calm down when my mind is turbulent and helps me let go of negative emotions.” Moreen hopes Ausganica’s personal care products can also uplift people in their pursuit of inner peace, beauty, and confidence. With its bounty of organic ingredients, Ausganica offers delightful doses of nature to revitalize and refresh our lives. 掘自己具有辨識與記憶 植物 香氣的天賦、自然地走 進 了調香與芳療的領域，結合東西方傳統醫療的智慧與 優 點 而 創 立 Ausganica。 廖 曉 倩 擁 有自家 工 廠， 能 夠嚴格掌控 原料的來源與級別，例如產品中所含純植 物萃 取 的玻 尿 酸，價格比黃金高昂，但是 效 果 遠 勝於 一 般 化 學 生 產 的 廉 價 玻 尿 酸。 旗 下 天 然 香 水 避 開 有 害人體 的定香 劑，使 用有機 純 粹的花 草香氛。獨立 生 產 且天 然有 效 的 配方，讓 Ausganica 在美容保 養的 紅海中走出了一片天。 由於本身專業是芳香 療法，廖曉倩侃侃而談西方 花 草 的 獨 到 療 效。 芳 香 療 法 的 好 處 是 精 油 分 子 活 性 高，所以 滲 透 力 很 強，並 且 具有令人愉 悅 的 香 氣。香 氛不只能 進入人體循環，聞香同時能安撫、提 振與放 鬆 使 用者 的 情 緒。Ausganica 除了以有 機 香 氛 療 法 為基礎，還有中醫「 治未病 」概 念應用在產品的配方 中，相當於西方「 預 防醫 學 」。現代 人聞之色變的 掉 髮問 題，中醫看來可能 是腎 氣不足，或者是 頭 皮循 環 不 好，Ausganica 便 採 用相 關 療 效 的西方 花 草針 對 問題 進行保 健。品牌堅 持使用有機 認證的原料，也是 預 防人體 接 觸 有毒 物 質，進而引發其他疾 病。簡 而言 之，Ausganica 是以中醫的智慧處 理西方有機花草。 廖 曉 倩 認 為 在 中 醫 的 觀 念 中， 人 的 五 感、 五 觀 就 是 五行 的 體 現， 也 對 應 五 臟 六 腑 的 運 作， 因 此 關 於五感 在日常生活中所 觸及的方方面 面，需要 特別留 心。現代 人與大自然的連 結薄弱，平常又接 觸大 量 工 作壓力與 環 境污染，五感受害甚深，對身 體機能的運 作 有 著 強 大 的 負面 影 響。 蘊 含東 西 方 傳 統 醫 學 理 念 的 Ausganica 產品便 能從營養、香氣與使 用情 境 上 補 充 這塊不足。近年西方時 尚開始流行古老中國調 理 人 體 內 外 的 智 慧，如 靜 坐、風 水、五行與 中 醫，但 是 古人 的 智 慧玄之又玄，西方愛美人士 難 以 窺 其堂奧； Ausganica 揉合了 東 西方傳 統 療 法 精 華，讓 產 品 的 功效不只停 留在表 層肌 膚，也能從內改善身 體機 能。 Ausganica 堅 持 選 用有 機 認 證 的 天 然 成分，自行生 產亦能確保高端原料品質不摻水，讓每一吋肌膚保養 由內而外，全方位擁有美麗光彩。
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Makeup AWARD WINNERS 年度最佳美妝大獎
BRAND AWARDS
1
PRESTIGE AWARD Dior This classic icon continues to wow us with innovative, high-quality products, gorgeous color assortments, and fresh, feminine, and vibrant shades!
2
CULT BEAUTY AWARD Tarte Funky and innovative, Tarte’s eco-chic line makes our lives more colorful and fun, while keeping the product line hypoallergenic, cruelty-free, and vegan! Formulated without parabens, phthalates, sodium lauryl sulfate, triclosan, and gluten. (tartecosmetics.com)
(dior.com)
3
4 NATURAL AWARD (masstige) 100% PURE Made from pure, organic nutrients and fruit pigments and free of anything synthetic or artificial, 100% PURE’s makeup collection is as healthy as it is fabulous! (100percentpure.com)
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DESIGN AWARD lilah b. With its white signature stone compacts, lilah b.’s sleek and minimalistic, high-quality design made it a clear design award winner! (lilahbeauty.com) Please note that the special award winners can only participate with a maximum of three products in the individual award categories.
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2019 winners
FOUNDATIONS 7
6
8
6 5 4
1
4
2
3
1. BEST FOUNDATION
6. BEST NATURAL LIQUID FOUNDATION (masstige) 100% PURE - Fruit Pigmented FullCoverage Water Foundation
Tarte - Babassu Foundcealer Phenomenal texture, color assortment, and dewy finish!
Provides healthy, hydrating coverage with a natural, dewy finish.
($39, tartecosmetics.com)
($41, 100percentpure.com)
2. BEST LONG-LASTING FOUNDATION
4. BEST STICK FOUNDATION (prestige)
Dior - Forever Skin Glow
Burberry - Fresh Glow Gel Stick
Flawless coverage and radiant finish for up to 24 hours!
Innovative water-infused formula that glides on like silk!
($52, dior.com)
($48, Nordstrom.com)
3. BEST HYDRATING FOUNDATION
5. BEST STICK FOUNDATION (masstige)
Laura Mercier - Flawless Lumière Foundation
Flesh - Firm Flesh Stick
8. BEST CREAM FOUNDATION Kjaer Weis - Cream Foundation
Provides up to 15 hours of hydration and a luminous finish!
Creamy, blendable formula with a luminous, lightly dewy, non-chalky finish. Comes in 40 fabulous shades!
Has a beautiful, nourishing formula and comes in a gorgeous range of shades.
($48, lauramercier.com)
($18, Ulta, fleshbeauty.com)
($68, kjaerweis.com)
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7. BEST NATURAL CREAM FOUNDATION rms beauty - “Un” Cover-Up Flawlessly covers imperfections and redness with its creamy, healthy, and hypoallergenic formula! ($36, rmsbeauty.com)
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