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trends guide

spring summer 2021

A.I. ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE


VISION LAB

BY ARSUTORIA


Vision Lab by ARSUTORIA During the summer of 2019 we celebrated the desire of mankind to conquer space, to live beyond gravity, to reach those goals of which today Artificial Intelligence is probably an icon.

curated by Carlo Sorrenti

The theme inspired the creation of the materials of ARSUTORIA’s VISION LAB, developed following the key concepts of the coming Spring/Summer 2021, embodied with creative genius by the collaboration between Arsutoria and some of the most important companies of the sector. They gave rise to completely innovative proposals, capable of bringing forth new ideas.

Carlo Sorrenti, a passionate researcher of innovative biomaterials, is a product manager and consultant in research and development, specialising in materials for the luxury sector. He is founder and C.E.O. of the DOMINO EGO company, which operates in Malta and deals with product management and supply chain development management in outsourcing, research and development consultancy, intellectual property and bio-economy in the luxury goods sector.

Seamless materials (the only ones allowed in space) float in zero gravity thanks to soft and whimsical three-dimensional surfaces. Classic items are revitalised through coupling and laser processing, customising them carefully through applications, new pleats and contemporary material mixes.

Already materials research & development manager of the Tod’s Group, he is professor in commodity economics at the European Institute of Design (I.E.D.) and has worked throughout his long career with leading international designers and product managers.

Increasingly more attention is dedicated to sustainability, referring to both the ecological issue (heat-sealing, waterbased adhesives, natural colours), and productivity (reuse of archive materials, film applications that save resources compared to wet finishing‌).

In collaboration with some of the most important companies of materials in the footwear and leather goods sector, he designed and developed for ARSUTORIA the new materials described on the following pages.

Domino Ego


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION - SUSTAINABILITY

LA VENETA LEATHERS ACQUIRE SOFTNESS AND VOLUME THANKS TO THE COUPLING WITH SCHMID FABRIC. ICAP FILMS EMBELLISH THE SURFACE WHILE THREE-DIMENSIONALITY, OBTAINED BY PRINTING AND NO LONGER WITH MECHANICAL PLATES, AND THE APPLICATION OF RAMPONI STUDS ALLOW A CUSTOMISATION LEVEL THAT MAKES THE DIFFERENCE.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

THE IMPORTANCE OF CUSTOMISATION IS ALSO APPLIED TO LA VENETA’S WHITE LEATHERS, WHICH ACHIEVE SOFTNESS THANKS TO THE 3D EFFECT AND ABOVE ALL ORIGINALITY THROUGH THE PARTICULAR RAMPONI EMBROIDERY STITCH WITH ITS BRIGHT SHADE.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF THESE CONCEPTS CAN BE FOUND ONCE AGAIN APPLIED TO LA VENETA’S LEATHER PRINTED WITH 3D EFFECT AND THIS TIME CUSTOMISED WITH RAMPONI DEGRADÉ STUDS.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

THE SAME CREATIVE CUES CAN BE APPLIED TO A MATERIAL WITH A MORE TECHNOLOGICAL TOUCH, SUCH AS THE SCHMID SPONGE AND NET, WHICH REGAIN ELEGANCE AND ORIGINALITY THROUGH THE APPLICATION OF NUMEROUS RAMPONI STUDS.


TECHNOLOGY

CONCEPT OF OF THE THE THIRD THIRD THE CONCEPT COMES UP UP AGAIN AGAIN WITH AN DIMENSION COMES OPTICAL TOUCH. LA VENETA WITH AN OPTICAL TOUCH. LA LEATHER ALREADY SEEN PREVIOUSLY, BUT IN THE VENETA LEATHER ALREADY SEEN OPPOSITE DIRECTION, REPROPOSES PREVIOUSLY, BUT IN THE OPPOSITE THE 3D PRINTING EFFECT AND, DIRECTION, REPROPOSES THE THEREFORE, THE SUSTAINABILITY OF 3D PRINTING EFFECT AND, A DESIGN THAT IMAGINES A MATERIAL THEREFORE, THE SUSTAINABILITY USED ON BOTH SIDES. OF A DESIGN THAT IMAGINES A MATERIAL USED ON BOTH SIDES.


COUPLING - TECHNOLOGY – CLASSIC STYLE

THE POSSIBILITY OF THINK UP NEW VISIONS OF THE MOST CLASSIC MATERIALS LEADS TO THE COUPLING (CENTRAL WORD, THIS HAS BEEN UNDERSTOOD BY NOW) OF LUXURIOUS LA VENETA CALF SKINS WITH AIRSPACE MEMORY FOAM THAT ALSO PROVIDES A SLIGHTLY ELASTIC TOUCH TO THE MOST TRADITIONAL OF LEATHERS.


CUSTOMISATION

WHEN ART MEETS MATERIALS, A SHORT CIRCUIT OF POWERFUL CREATIVE ORIGINALITY IS GENERATED. A PRECIOUS MIX OF TECHNIQUES FOR REFINED DETAILS, WHERE NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE. CUSTOMISATION REACHES VERY HIGH LEVELS HERE. DIENPI PRODUCTION.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

DIENPI TRANSFORMS A SIMPLE PU-BASE INTO A FASHION MANIFESTO. THE THEME OF THE LOGO IN RELIEF IS A VERY IMPORTANT VARIANT OF THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL EFFECT TREND. TRANSPARENCY, LASER PROCESSING, HEAT-SEALING ARE ONCE AGAIN ESSENTIAL KEYWORDS.


SUSTAINABILITY

THERE IS MUCH TALK ABOUT ECOLOGY, BUT THERE IS NOTHING BETTER THAN CONCRETISING THE ABSTRACT CONCEPT IN AN ICONIC ACCESSORY. REAL WASTE FOUND ON THE BEACH, FOR EXAMPLE, IS VACUUM-ENCAPSULATED, BECOMING BEAUTY AND A MESSAGE.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

IT IS FUNDAMENTAL TO LEARN HOW TO EXPLOIT A TECHNOLOGY, AND A TECHNIQUE, IN DIFFERENT WAYS. IN THIS CASE THE RAMPONI LASER IS USED AT DIFFERENT INTENSITIES SO TO ENGRAVE, DIG OR REMOVE, GIVING LIGHT TO A COMPLEX MATERIAL, MADE BY THE GATHERING OF DIFFERENT GEOMETRIES. THE APPLICATION OF STUDS IN DIFFERENT COLOURS COMPLETES THE RICH OFFER.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

THE SAME CONCEPT CAN BE REPROPOSED, ALWAYS USING LASER, IN AN INCREDIBLE NUMBER OF VARIANTS. HERE IT IS APPLIED TO DAVOS SHEETS THAT FIND AN OPTICAL OUTBURST WITH A CONSIDERABLE VISUAL IMPACT.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION -THE SOUL OF A SOLE

AND WHY NOT TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SAME TECHNOLOGY AND THE SAME CONCEPTS TO INFLUENCE AND ENRICH ALSO THE SOLES OF THE MOST CLASSIC SNEAKERS WITH A DELICATE TOUCH.


SUSTAINABILITY - CUSTOMISATION - OVERLAPPING

A SCHMID CANVAS HOUSES AN ABSTRACT GEOMETRY RESULTING FROM THE OVERLAPPING OF THREE NATURELLA® LEATHER COLOURS, PRODUCED BY CONCERIA SANTORI. HEATSEALED AND WATER-BASED ADHESIVES REPROPOSE BOTH THE THEME OF SUSTAINABILITY, SUCH AS THE LACK OF SEAMS (LET’S RECALL, STRICTLY PROHIBITED IN SPACE). LASER CUTTING IS STILL PROTAGONIST TO GIVE LIFE TO GEOMETRIES OTHERWISE UNREPEATABLE.


SUSTAINABILITY - TECHNOLOGY

BLUE ITALY, ON THE OTHER HAND, INTERPRETS THE SAME NATURELLA® LEATHER DOUBLING IT WITH A MATERIAL WHOSE TEXTURE IS REPLICATED ON LEATHER, ONCE AGAIN IMPRINTING A SLIGHTLY EFFECT IN RELIEF AND GIVING BACK A SENSATION OF SOFTNESS. IN THIS CASE ALSO, SOLVENT-FREE ADHESIVES GUARANTEE ATTENTION TO THE ENVIRONMENT.


TECHNOLOGY

ALWAYS BLUE ITALY PLAYS WITH THE COMBINATION OF AS MANY AS 3 MATERIALS - SCHMID JEANS AND FABRICS WITH A THERMOPLASTIC FILM, TO EMPHASIZE ONCE AGAIN THE IMPORTANCE OF THE LACK OF SEAMS AND TO INTRODUCE A MOVEMENT OF THE MATERIAL IN THE SPACE OBTAINED, NO LONGER WITH EMBOSSING, BUT WITH INNOVATIVE CONTEMPORARY PLEATING.


TECHNOLOGY

IN THIS CASE BLUE ITALY IS CONFRONTED WITH LA VENETA BRUSH OFF LEATHER COMBINING IT WITH LYCRA, TO THEN MAKE A FEATHER FILLING. THUS ANOTHER FUNDAMENTAL CONCEPT IS INTRODUCED: THE TRANSFORMATION OF A RIGID MATERIAL INTO SOMETHING SOFT. THE IDEA OF THE CLOUD, SOFT AND LIGHT THAT GIVES FRESHNESS TO MATERIALS WITH A MORE TRADITIONAL LOOK.


TECHNOLOGY

SAME THOUGHT FOR THE PILLOW THAT EMBODIES MANY OF THE THEMES SEEN SO FAR: HEAT-SEALED 3D EFFECT COUPLINGS, WITH NO SEAMS, TO EMBELLISH THE STIFF STARTING MATERIAL AND ACQUIRES FRESHNESS AND LIGHTNESS THANKS TO THE DRILLS AND THE FILLING. THE CREDIT OF THE REALISATION ON SCHMID FABRIC COUPLED WITH LYCRA GOES TO BLUE ITALY.


CUSTOMISATION - MINIMAL WHITE

THE IDEA OF BLUE ITALY RELIEF IS EXPRESSED ALSO WITH LIGHTNESS ON A NEUTRAL SURFACE THAT MANAGES TO DEFINE A SOFT AND ELEGANT THREE-DIMENSIONAL PATH WITH A LIGHT COUPLING.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

A SIMPLE SCHMID SPONGE BASE SUPPORTS A MODERN PLEATING THAT MAKES OUT OF ARTISANAL IRREGULARITY ITS BEST QUALITY. BLUE ITALY TRANSFORMS THE PU SHEET INTO AN ABSTRACT WORK OF GREAT IMPACT. ONCE AGAIN THERE IS A RETURN OF THE CONCEPT: NO SEAMS.


TECHNOLOGY - UNDER GLASS

SCHMID FABRIC USED IN REVERSE TO INTRODUCE THE DOUBLE-SIDE CONCEPT, CAPABLE OF ALSO PROVIDING A VALID AND SUSTAINABLE SOLUTION FOR REUSE. THE APPLICATION OF A CRACKLE-EFFECT LAMINATED PAPER AND A ‘HALF’ COATING MAKE EVEN STRONGER THE UNDER GLASS EFFECT, ANOTHER KEY CONCEPT OF THE SEASON.


TECHNOLOGY

THERE IS A RETURN OF THE THEME IDENTIFIED BY A LACK OF SEAMS AND BLUE ITALY LASER PROCESSING OF DIFFERENT INTENSITIES FOR A GEOMETRIC APPROACH TO THE COUPLING CONCEPT BETWEEN LA VENETA LEATHER AND SCHMID MESH BASE.


TECHNOLOGY

A VITRIFICATION EFFECT OBTAINED BY COMBINING TWO GLOSSY MATERIALS SUCH AS A VARNISH AND A PU BASE. THE MACRO-DRILLS ON LA VENETA LEATHER ALLOW YOU TO APPRECIATE THE OTHER MATERIAL THAT ACHIEVES ITS AESTHETIC VALUE AS WELL AS PROVIDING THE BASIS FOR HEAT SEALING.


CUSTOMISATION

THE MUCH EXPLOITED SATIN FINDS THE TOUCH OF GENIUS IN THIS MIXTURE OF BLUE ITALY PROCESSES THAT COMBINE MOVEMENT AND SOFT EMBOSSING WITH A DOUBLE (GLOSSY/OPAQUE) COATING THAT ALLOWS YOU TO OBTAIN A FASCINATING VARIANT OF THE UNDER GLASS EFFECT.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

SCHMID JEANS RISES TO AN ARTISTIC DIMENSION THANKS TO THE TWO-TONE EFFECT OBTAINED WITH THE APPLICATION OF A PU FILM THAT RECALLS THE UPPERS. THE ARTISAN TOUCH OF THE THREADS HARNESSED IN THE HEAT-SEALING HIGHLIGHTS THE ‘SEAMLESS’ CONCEPT WITH EXTREME FORCE TO EMPHASIZE THE IMPORTANCE OF THE YARN IN THE MODERN SENSE.


TECHNOLOGY - SUSTAINABILITY

ONCE AGAIN TO SAY NO TO SEAMS AND THE IMPORTANCE, IN TERMS OF SUSTAINABILITY, OF PROMOTING MATERIALS ALREADY PRODUCED COMBINING THEM TOGETHER, HERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT SCHMID FABRICS THAT ARE ENLIVENED THANKS TO A SPIRAL EFFECT THAT RECALLS THE METAPHYSICS OF THE GOLDEN RATIO OR THE FIBONACCI SEQUENCE.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

THE LEATHER OF CONCERIA NUVOLARI ALSO FINDS ITS NOVELTY IN THE BOLD PLEATING KEPT IN PLACE THANKS TO THE TPU BASE. BLUE ITALY PRODUCTION.


TECHNOLOGY

BLUE ITALY WORKS WITH REFLECTIVE MATERIALS (MORE AND MORE WIDESPREAD NOT ONLY IN SAFETY CONTEXTS, BUT ALSO IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY) TO CREATE A TRANSPARENT LASERED AND WOVEN PU WITH THE SAME LUMINESCENT FABRIC.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

SOMETIMES THE COUPLING OF A MATERIAL DOES NOT NEED TO BE INTEGRAL. EVEN A SINGLE DETAIL CAN BE ENOUGH TO FUEL THAT SEARCH FOR INNOVATION THAT CAN BRING BACK TO LIFE BASES ALREADY PRESENT, ADDING A TOUCH OF NOVELTY. HERE A LASER-CUT FILM WITH INTENSE RAINBOW METALLIC TONES IS APPLIED TO NATURELLA® LEATHER.


TECHNOLOGY - CUSTOMISATION

A SCHMID SPONGE SERVES AS ‘SEA’ FOR A SHAPE THAT RECALLS A TYPICAL JAPANESE FISH TO WHICH A DIGITAL PRINT IS APPLIED (WE GO BACK TO THE LOGO THEME), INCORPORATED BELOW A VITRIFICATION EFFECT THAT IS ACTUALLY A HEAT SEAL. A TOTAL LACK OF SEAMS.


CUSTOMISATION

IN THIS CASE, THE THEME OF ARTISANAL CUSTOMISATION MERGES WITH THE FRAGMENT CONCEPT. IN THIS CASE IT’S LIKE GOING BACK TO BEING A CHILD AGAIN AND THE ROADS OF SPONTANEOUS ART ARE RETRACED TO BRING BACK A JEANS BASE TO NEW LIFE.


CUSTOMISATION

WITH THE SAME CONCEPT IT IS POSSIBLE TO REPRODUCE EVEN MORE ANCIENT SYMBOLS SUCH AS THAT OF THE CIRCLE, A STRONG METAPHOR OF PURSUING EQUILIBRIUM FOR THE RIGHT BALANCING.


CUSTOMISATION

HERE YOU ACHIEVE THE THREEDIMENSIONAL EFFECT WITHIN A MORE ARTISANAL DIMENSION. THE ALTERED FACE OF THE MONA LISA BECOMES ABSTRACT PAINTING TO OFFER A WORLD OF FRAGMENTS THAT DEPART FROM THE ARTISTIC REALITY TO BE IMMERSED IN THE MATERIAL DREAM OF COLOURS.


TECHNOLOGY

HERE WE GO BACK TO THE COUPLING CONCEPTS (SCHMID MESH), ULTRA-LASER (LA VENETA LEATHER) AND HEAT-SEALING. NOW IT IS INTERPRETED BY REFERRING TO THE KINETIC ART CONVEYED IN THE 60S BY GROUP N.


TECHNOLOGY - SUSTAINABILITY - CUSTOMISATION

THE LEATHER SUPPORT OF CONCERIA NUVOLARI MATCHES SCHMID SATIN WHOSE GEOMETRIES ARE OBTAINED THROUGH CAREFUL LASER PROCESSING, THEN HEAT-SEALED AND DIGITALLY PRINTED. THIS BLUE ITALY PROCESS, WHICH ONCE AGAIN GOES WITHOUT SEAMS AND SOLVENT-BASED ADHESIVES PREFERRING THOSE WATER-BASED, ALSO CHOOSES NATURAL COLOURS FOR DIGITAL PRINTING.


TECHNOLOGY - SUSTAINABILITY

ICAP FILMS ARE APPLIED TO SCHMID FABRICS THAT EMBELLISH THE SURFACES AND, AT THE SAME TIME, ALLOW TO SAVE WATER AND CHEMICALS AS THEY CAN DO WITHOUT A DAMP SPRAY FINISH.


TECHNOLOGY - SUSTAINABILITY

HERE AGAIN ICAP FILMS ARE APPLIED TO NATURELLA® LEATHERS.


TECHNOLOGY CUSTOMISATION

A CLASSIC IRIDESCENT METALLIC FABRIC ACQUIRES NEW PERSONALITY THANKS TO THE NUMEROUS 3D EFFECTS ACHIEVED BOTH THROUGH COUPLING AND TO PECULIAR MARKED STITCHED SEAMS.


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Arsutoria Trends Guide SS21 - Visual Lab  

Arsutoria Trends Guide SS21 - Visual Lab