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L’Orafo International 2013

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editorial

colophon

Italian jewellery: a worldwide heritage The Italian jewellery and goldware

publisher Edifis S.p.A.

industry is going through a difficult time. The economic crisis has hit the

management Viale Coni Zugna, 71 20144 Milano MI Ph. +39 02 3451 230 Fax +39 02 3451 231 info@edifis.it www.edifis.it

U.S. market and most European markets, which have always been major customers of Italian jewellery, and the politics of austerity imposed by Europe have been often exces-

editorial office orafo@edifis.it

sive and detrimental to the country. Nevertheless, there is one reassu-

editor-in-chief Marina Morini

ring thing: people still feel strong admiration for Italian traditional jewellery-making and the still feel the desire to own a piece expressing that art, as well as a lifestyle and a taste for beautiful things that is reco-

GRAZIELLA Bracelet from the Intrecci Collection. American mesh in 18 carat gold and silk. Also available in 14 and 21 carat gold and in silver. See pages 30, 31, 60.

gnised around the world. This consideration is based on Italian jewellery exports, which, despite all difficulties and net of the increase in the price of gold, have grown over the past three years, mostly to Europe - particularly Eastern Europe - and the Far East. The reasons for this “love� for Italian jewellery are well-known (design, craftsmanship, know-how, quality) but it is right to remember the crucial role of Italian jewellery districts. These areas bring together a large number of companies, mostly family businesses, that produce small, precious masterpieces that express the history and professionalism of the Italian jewellery industry: a heritage and a treasure for the whole world. Marina Morini

editorial staff Antonella Garello ________________________________________ advertising dircom@edifis.it traffic department Libera Carlini libera.carlini@edifis.it ________________________________________ contributor ASI - Analisi e Studi Industriali photos Close up Studios translation Promo-Est project and artwork Claudio Rossi Oldrati printed by Presservice Ottanta S.r.l. Seriate (BG) ________________________________________

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l’Orafo International 2013


summary

The Italian market by ASI - Analisi e Studi Industriali ..............8 The Arezzo district ..............................................16 The Valenza district ............................................24 The Vicenza district ..............................................32 The Naples and Torre del Greco district .............40 Bright lights, precious jewels by Antonella Garello ............47 Company profiles ..........................................................58 INSERZIONISTI Alcozer & J. s.r.l. ................................................................12-13 Arezzo Fiere e Congressi .........................................................63 Chimet s.p.a. .....................................................................38-39 Crieri ..................................................................II copertina, 1-5 D&sign s.r.l. .........................................................64, III copertina Dinacci F.lli ........................................................................14-15 Erika Gioielli ......................................................................18-19 FAOR s.p.a. .......................................................................20-23 Faro .......................................................................................46 F.I.OR. s.p.a. ......................................................................26-27 Grani s.r.l. .........................................................................28-29 Graziella Group .................................................copertina, 30-31 Ititoli ......................................................................................55 Mannucci Gioielli ...............................................................34-35 Nardi s.r.l. .........................................................................36-37 Passavinti ..........................................................................42-43 Progetto Luce .....................................................................56-57 P.V.Z. s.r.l. ..........................................................................44-45 Unoaerre Industries ....................................................IV copertina

l’Orafo International 2013

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economy

Golden Italy Milan n

by ASI Analisi e Studi Industriali

Vicenza n

Valenza Po n

Arezzo n

Rome n

Naples n

As is known, the worsening of the global financial and economic crisis has led to a widespread slowdown in the aggregate demand for durable goods, including jewellery (as is also indicated by the findings of the World Gold Council). Nevertheless, the positioning of Italian gold jewellery - which exports two thirds of its production - remains solid. The Italian jewellery industry is

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l’Orafo International 2013

characterised by high artistic intensity, a strong orientation towards exports and the concentration of a large part of its production in some historical districts (such as Vicenza, Arezzo, Valenza, Naples), which include important groups of successful companies that set in motion a host of small craft businesses specialised in the various segments of the industry. With the new millennium, gold-

smiths had to face the challenge of globalisation and the new Asian competition (not only in the jewellery industry), often conducted with unfair trading practices which have led professionals to seek the help of Europe through specific anti–dumping measures. Leaving the simpler traditional products to emerging countries, the Italian industry has been able to move towards segments with higher added value. Unoaerre


Jewellery exports from the districts 2012 first 6 months

Quality, innovation, internationalisation are not just mere slogans. In fact, Italian jewellery is by far the most beautiful and appreciated around the world. Innovation has affected both production processes and products, and internationalisation is identified in an export program in more than 150 countries. The jewellery industry has also been able to build a network of valuable sub-suppliers of components and services. An important industry of jewellery machinery has grown along with them, with leading manufacturers in various segments, which also export all over the world. The challenge is open, but the productive apparatus needs to reach the minimum size imposed

by a changing competitive world. Being small was good, even great. Today we need to grow to be able to offer new, specialised production based on know-how, which should be fostered by investing in research, equipment and personnel. Looking back to Schumpeter and his "creative destruction," the history of the Italian industry in the postwar period reported cases of falls (sometimes disastrous) in certain districts, which were followed by rises and great recoveries. The time to wait before the revival was not uniform. In the specific case of jewellery the retreat began a dozen years ago. It still lacks clear signals of a turnaround, but it cannot be said that the maximum time limit is in

Arezzo 30,8%

Other 16,3%

Rome 1,2%

Vicenza 24,5%

Milan 10,6% Valenza Po 16,2%

Naples 0,4%

sight. Even though the high-volume production at the end of the last century are considered "things of the past" as a result of the changes occurred on a global scale: the sudden support of

consumers, well-known new (really new) products, different ways of life, as well as the prolonged economic crisis. Nevertheless, the Italian jewellery industry can still rely on

The economy in figures VARIABLES

PERIOD

DATA (1)

VARIATIONS CURRENT (2)

VARIATIONS TREND (3)

goldware/silverware - exports (1)

January-July 2012

3.575,31

n.s.(4)

16,0

goldware/silverware - imports (1)

January-July 2012

1.363,74

n.s.(4)

40,2

precious metals - imports (1)

January-July 2012

4.030,34

n.s.(4)

24,4

precious metals - exports (1)

January-July 2012

4.383,54

n.s.(4)

85,2

goldware production (5)

January-August 2012

54,8

n.s.(4)

-7,1

goldware production prices (5)

January-August 2012

151,7

5,6

7,7

domestic goldware turnover (5)

January-August 2012

73,6

n.s.(4)

5,5

total goldware turnover (5)

January-August 2012

76,7

n.s.(4)

3,7

confidence climate - families (6)

September 2012

92,9

-1,1

-13,7

confidence climate - firms (7)

September 2012

94,0

-0,5

-6,2

Notes: (1) Millions of Euros. (2) Over previous period. (3) Over the same period previous year. (4) Insignificant, seasonal cause. (5) Index average 2000=100. (6), (7) Seasonally adjusted index 2005=100, comprising the whole Italian economy. Sources: Istat data processing

l’Orafo International 2013

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economy Foreign trade of jewellery by districts* first 6 months DISTRICTS

Million

var. %

% on

(Province)

Euro

2012/11

total

Naples

9,93

40,0

0,4

Rome

33,18

15,4

1,2

Valenza Po (AL)

441,23

-7,7

16,2

Milan

289,65

17,1

10,6

Arezzo

841,53

12,6

30,8

Vicenza

669,05

6,3

24,5

Other

445,63

14,4

16,3

(*) Districts data include fashion jewellery - Cod. Ateco CM 321 Sources: ASI, Istat data processing

well-known factors originating in the boom. Without wanting to create a list of priorities, the design, style, creativity, attention to manufacturing, the variety of models, the professionalism of craftsmen, the specific know-how of workers. These factors of excellence are universally recognised as the best in the world and most importantly they are not easily copied (with the exception of design). As mentioned above, the potential of the Italian productive apparatus - despite the abandonment of large firms – can be found and is well-established in specific districts, which include extraordinary resources, crucial to the success of businesses. Businesses that can quickly remove the obstacles to the recovery of competitiveness. This is demonstrated, among other things, by the success of certain brands of excellence in global markets. The district model is a cluster of small companies (often craft en-

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terprises) having a common predominant business and operating in a restricted area (a group of well-connected cities or small neighbouring towns). Here, in addition to the core business, companies develop synergies and spread a wide and varied range of complementary activities, services and specific subsupplies, which allow higher competitiveness as compared to companies that work outside the district. Today - with the dissemination of communications technology - the element of "closeness" of companies in the supply chain has become less stringent. In fact, the overall share of exports from jewellery districts - while remaining very high (around 82%) - is lower than in the nineties (about 93%). Thanks to the talent of goldsmiths and district organisation, the Italian industry (not only in the jewellery segment) reached positions of excellence in the world due to at least two categories of factors. On one hand, the

already mentioned lifestyle and the ability to seize the opportunities offered by the historic transition from an industrial society (centered on mass production of material goods) to a post-industrial society. A resource derived from a unique synthesis of elegance and beauty, well-being in everyday life and the pleasure of taste, tangible products and intangible values. A stratification showing no signs of stopping and that in the

coming years will face the challenge of new materials and new technologies, incorporating them in the arsenal of tools adopted to translate the imagination of Italian craftsmen and professionals into something concrete. In the medium term, factors directly or indirectly related to the quality of life will play in favour

Worldwide economic trends var. % year on year Forecast GDP

2009

2010

2011

2012 2013

of the world

-2,3

4,6

3,2

2,8

3,4

United States

-2,7

3,0

1,7

2,0

2,3

Eurozone

-4,2

1,7

1,4

-0,5

0,7

Italy

-5,2

1,8

0,5

-2,4

-0,2

Japan

-5,5

4,5

-0,7

1,9

1,5

Germany

-4,7

3,6

3,0

0,5

1,9

United Kingdom

-4,8

2,1

0,7

0,5

1,9

France

-2,7

1,6

1,7

0,0

1,2

Spain

-3,7

-0,1

0,7

-1,6

-0,8

Turkey

-4,8

9,2

8,5

3,3

4,6

Russia

-7,8

4,3

4,3

4,0

4,1

China

9,2

10,4

9,2

7,6

8,0

India

9,1

10,6

7,2

6,9

7,0

Brasil

-0,2

7,5

2,7

3,0

4,2

Mexico

-6,1

5,5

4,0

3,6

3,8

Source: Istat, World Bank, Eurostat, Bce, Istat, Fmi, Ocse data processing.


Export of jewellery (main countries of destination) Graziella

first 7 months 2012 COUNTRIES

of the “Italian Brand”: the growth of population (increasingly often with dark skin and almond-shaped eyes) and the recovery of global wealth; the increase in life expectancy, with greater physical and mental well-being into old age; the progressive priority of creative work on executive work, now delegated to machines, the rapid economic development of many countries outside Europe, the growing education of population with an average to high income; and the development of means of communication and transport, making the movement of people, ideas and goods faster and less expensive. A new concept of “luxury” in which an increasing number of users reject conspicuous consumption and prefer to cultivate “the deep joy of beauty related to knowledge, measured rhythms, introspection and

conviviality”. Overall, Italian jewellery exports in the first seven months of 2012 rose by 5.6% (year on year). An increase mainly due to the rise in prices of precious raw materials. Trends are different from one country of destination to another, and from a district of origin of exported jewellery to another. The center of gravity of Italian jewellery exports remains Europe, with almost half of the total amount. But over the years, sales (and the relevant shares) have expanded to the east: from the oil countries to Russia, China, Japan. Exports to India remain relatively limited due to the wellknown local protectionist legislation, while the U.S. market which was a real catalyst of Italian jewellery in the past - has reduced purchases to move towards new comers and “transit countries”, which offer better tax policies. Switzerland is still the most important sales market for Italian jewellery (with almost a quarter of

Million Euro

var.%

in %

2011

2012

Switzerland

702,56

707,69

0,7

22,9

Arab Emirates

452,00

554,04

22,6

17,9

United States

256,98

247,45

-3,7

8,0

France

188,82

179,86

-4,7

5,8

China

141,90

167,51

18,0

5,4

Hong Kong

152,81

143,73

-5,9

4,7

Turkey

108,64

102,67

-5,5

3,3

Germany

78,36

94,15

20,2

3,0

United Kingdom

67,28

76,64

13,9

2,5

Spain

54,52

52,56

-3,6

1,7

Israel

52,13

48,68

-6,6

1,6

Rumania

37,15

40,02

7,7

1,3

Panama

42,06

38,35

-8,8

1,2

Mexico

37,08

35,43

-4,4

1,1

Jordan

31,37

35,14

12,0

1,1

Australia

27,57

29,78

8,0

1,0

Russia

27,16

29,29

7,8

0,9

Belgium

31,35

28,67

-8,5

0,9

Japan

23,79

27,73

16,6

0,9

Libya

8,17

26,26

221,4

0,9

402,60

421,50

4,7

13,7

2.924,30

3.087,15

5,6

100,0

Other countries Total

2012/11 on total

Sources: ASI, Istat data processing

the total), although in the first seven months of the year it remained stable on

the previous year’s level. On the other hand, sales to China (+18%) are on the rise. But the rise of China is tempered by the decline in purchases from Hong Kong (-5.9%). As for the origin of jewellery exported in the first half of 2012, almost one third of the total comes from Arezzo, another quarter from Vicenza, 15% from Valenza. Smaller shares from other districts.

Erika Gioielli l’Orafo International 2013

11


o t z c i r t z s i e d r A

INCONTRI D’AUTUNNO

season. Among

The Arezzo jewellery district

tion of gold, silver and jewellery

is reacting to the crisis not

that is held every year in spring, or-

only by focusing on produc- ganised by the Business and Contion and service quality, but

vention Centre. Reserved exclusively

also launching a series of

for professionals, OroArezzo offers

events and initiatives to pro- a wide range of jewellery to an invide concrete support to com- ternational audience composed of panies in the industry.

importers/exporters, wholesalers,

OROAREZZO

of the event is Première, which has

(13-16 April 2013)

offered for 22 years a preview of

chain stores and retailers. The pride

OroArezzo is the leading trade fair

the new products presented by the

in Arezzo, an international exhibi-

participating companies for the next

16

l’Orafo International 2013

(16-18 October 2013)

the nine pieces chosen ex-aequo

In this three-day workshop, a small

by a qualified jury, one is awarded

number of manufacturers meets in Arez-

the special “Minerva d’Oro” prize.

zo fifty selected buyers in the gold and

These pieces of jewellery will enjoy

silver industry, from the most interesting

considerable visibility; among other

traditional and emerging markets, in-

things, they are the protagonists of

cluding the United States, Hong Kong,

the fashion shows organised during

Middle East, Europe - especially France

OroArezzo and are presented in

and Russia. Based on the catalogue,

OroArezzo promotional initiatives

buyers choose the companies with

abroad.

which to organise the meetings.

BI-JEWEL

LAST MINUTE

(13-16 April 2013)

(November 2013)

Bi-Jewel is held in conjunction with

In preparation for the Christmas sea-

OroArezzo. This is a space exclusi-

son, the two-day event Last Minute

vely dedicated to bijoux, with a

is designed as a meeting point bet-

about thirty manufacturers. Organised

ween producers interested in selling

in collaboration with Vogue Gioiello

“ready made” products and Italian

and Vogue Accessory, this exhibition

and foreign buyers interested in

pays special attention to the fashion

buying according to the “cash and

industry.

carry” concept.


Oro d’Autore - Gae Aulenti

Oro d’Autore - Dario Fo

NOT TO BE MISSED ORO D’AUTORE MUSEUM “Oro d’autore” is the name of a contemporary art jewellery collection that is truly unique in its kind. It includes one of a kind pieces, which cannot be reproduced or marketed, designed by leading national and international artists and manufactured by Italian jewellery companies, mainly in Arezzo. Launched in 1987 by the current Arezzo Fiere e Congressi - with an initial set

jewellery designers such as Alberto Zorzi and Clara Miriam Dodino. Based

of 14 pieces, the collection now includes more than 300 jewellery pieces de-

on the Oro d’Autore project, Arezzo Fiere e Congressi was awarded the

signed by artists like Dario Fo, Enrico Baj, Gae Aulenti, Ettore Sottsass, Pietro

Mondoitalia Prize by the Ministry of Foreign Trade and the ICE in 2001

Cascella, Salvatore Fiume, Dadamaino, many stylists and established

within the Enterprise and Culture Guggenheim Award competition.

MUSEO UNOAERRE

memory, which is a piece of

WHERE TO STAY

and offers a prestigious selection

GORI & ZUCCHI

Italian industrial memory. While

Badia di Pomaio Hotel

of local and national wines. The in-

An ancient Abbey dating back to

terior and exterior of the Abbey

drawings and creative designs are available

1645 has been turned from religious

are perfect for business meetings

only from 1946 - prin-

retreat into a four-star hotel. Located

and events. Near the Abbey there

ted materials were de-

at 650 m above sea level, with a

is also a golf course, a tennis centre

stroyed during the bom-

panoramic view of Arezzo, it is sur-

with soccer fields, a horse riding

bing of the Second

rounded by the beautiful Alpe di

centre and a partner wellness centre.

World War - the pieces

Poti. The park also features a ma-

Shuttle bus service available to

on display include ma-

gnificent landscaped pool. The at-

guests.

chinery and tools, from

mosphere is homely and elegant,

www.hotelbadiadipomaioarezzo.it

industrial archeology to

and the service is accurate in every

(Courtesy of Artù)

the present day: the fa-

detail. The hotel features

mous medals, made by

17 comfortable and quiet

world renown artists

rooms, provided with all

and engravers, “autar-

comforts and stylishly fur-

In 1998 Unoaerre Italia Spa opened

kic jewellery” of the thirties, Art

nished, with tiled floors and

its corporate history museum, the

Deco bracelets of the 40's, modu-

wooden and brick ceilings.

first Italian Museum of Gold Je-

lar jewellery of the 50’s, enamel-

The restaurant, with an out-

wellery. With this important initia-

led jewellery, the famous Love

door dining terrace open

tive, Unoaerre, founded in 1926,

medal and the latest creations by

in the summer, is inspired

provides a journey in its historical

Giò Pomodoro.

by traditional Tuscan cuisine

l’Orafo International 2013

17


a z t n c i r e t s l i d a V Salvatore Arzani

The Valenza district is respon- manufacturers and craftsmen of the

dates have been moved to the end of

ding well to the crisis, thanks

highest level display in the new exhi-

October to better respond

to excellent products and an

bition centre (photos top and below)

needs of the market, especially in an-

international vocation that al- some unique pieces and valuable lowed, especially in recent ye- collections that express Valenza’s ars, to obtain good results in

rich heritage and craftsmanship in

terms of exports.

the field of jewellery. The elegant show devoted to jewellery includes

VALENZA GIOIELLI

the V-Plus area, dedicated to the sec-

(26-29 October 2013)

tor of technologies and design. Va-

The trade fair Valenza Gioielli - inter-

lenza Gioielli is located near Valenza,

national jewellery exhibition - collects

Alessandria province, at the Expo Pie-

most of the excellence of the district:

monte exhibition centre. Since 2012

24

l’Orafo International 2013

to the

ticipation to the holiday season.


A SMALL, PRECIOUS DISTRICT The jewellery district of Valenza, international “capital” of jewellery, is spread over an area slightly larger than 50 sq km. The concentration of jewellery companies, especially craft businesses, in the area comes down to Vincenzo Melchiorre, considered the founder of the jewellery tradition in Valenza. In the late nineteenth century, Melchiorre returned from Paris and began to create jewellery with gold and precious stone. A spark that brought the number of firms existing before the First World War to over forty, which became more than 300 in 1945. Today these companies, largely family businesses, are more than 1,300, and stand out in the Italian jewellery sector for their vocation to internationalisation. About 7,000 the people employed, with a high level of technical and professional know-how.

THE PROJECT: A MUSEUM

hard on this project. A jewellery di-

WHERE TO STAY

is decorated with modern art

OF JEWELLERY ART

strict that is rich in history and lite-

La Fermata Resort

works and offers fine dining,

rature, and with an incredible

An ancient and picturesque estate,

with traditional dishes from Nor-

concentration of internatio-

located in Spinetta Marengo (Ales-

thern Italy, and particularly from

nally renowned

sandria) which dates back to the

Piedmont. In addition, the resort

companies. This

early seventeenth century. Resto-

also offers the La Fermata Golf

has meant that,

red to its former glory, it has

Club for golf lovers, with a beau-

over the years,

been owned by well-known re-

tiful course surrounded by nature:

members and pri-

staurateur Riccardo Aiachini since

300 meters long and 90 wide,

vate individuals

2006. An exceptional location,

with covered, uncovered and

have donated dra-

with twelve bright and comforta-

grass tees, perfectly suitable for

wings, tools, machines for

ble rooms, with decor inspired

both beginners and experts.

the processing of metals and

by the theme of feathers and the

www.lafermata-al.it

The Museo dell’Arte Orafa (Museum

gems, old documents and much

colours of game. The restaurant

(Courtesy of Artù)

of Jewellery Art) is not yet real, but

more to the Association.

the local association “Amici del Museo dell’Arte Orafa di Valenza”, chaired by jewellery expert Maria Grazia Molina, is working

l’Orafo International 2013

25


Technology and craftsmanship come together in this fanciful, high-quality collection, for both demanding and easygoing customers, who also enjoy creating new combinations.


a z n t c i r e t s c i i d V

VICENZAORO Fall

(7 - 11 September 2013) Internatio-

goods, jewellery

nal exhibition of gold items, jewel-

machinery and equipment, ac-

lery, silverware and watches, VI-

cessories, gemological instruments,

CENZAORO Fall is an event of

services. The event usually involves

great interest in anticipation of sup-

meetings and insights on current is-

plies for the holiday season. Tradi-

sues for the sector as a whole.

tionally it is the edition that puts

Other events taking place in parallel

greater focus on distribution and is

with VICENZAORO Winter:

designed to create the best possible

T-Gold: international exhibition of

environment to bring together supply

tools and equipment for jewellery

and demand.

and gemology, with a spotlight on new technologies applied to precious metals, which are increasingly becoming a major factor in determining companies’ competitiveness. Glamroom: an area dedicated to a group of pioneering companies in manufacturing ornaments that combine unusual materials such as wood, ceramic, resin and steel with Jewellery is a key element of

fairs in Vicenza - is the event that

precious materials, traditionally used

Vicenza production, which con- opens the international fair calendar.

in jewellery. Glamroom supports all

tinues to evolve thanks to in- It is therefore an interesting standpoint

three events in Vicenza.

exhaustible creativity, techno- to observe both the economic situalogy and constant attention

tion of the industry and trends, new

VICENZAORO Spring

to design and to the world of

products and the quality of proposals

(18 - 22 May 2013) VICENZAORO

accessories and fashion.

for the coming year. There is a wide

Spring offers an attractive range of

range of goods, including gold pro-

gold jewellery, gemstones and rela-

VICENZAORO Winter

ducts, gold and platinum jewellery,

ted sectors. The event is increasingly

(19-24 January 2013)

silverware, silver jewellery, precious

focusing on the proximity between

VICENZAORO Winter - the most im-

and semi-precious stones, pearls, co-

jewellery and the world of fashion

portant of the three jewellery trade

rals and cameos, watches, fancy

and accessories.

32

l’Orafo International 2013


ABOUT J The dates and the program of the next edition of About J an annual exhibition of fine jewellery organised by Fiera di Vicenza - are being finalised. The 2012 edition, held in September, was attended by about twenty Italian and international brands, which presented some of their creations in the beautiful Grand Hotel Savoia in Cortina d'Ampezzo, exclusive resort of timeless charm. The guest of honour was Gianmaria Buccellati, who provided for this occasion an exhibition of historical pieces by the famous maison entitled: “Buccellati: a century of creativity and excellence”.

WHERE TO STAY

local produce to innovative dishes,

Villa Ca’ Sette

seafood and land dishes and excel-

Located just 1 km from the old town

lent vegetarian cuisine, as well as

centre of Bassano del Grappa, the

a wine list with over 200 labels. It

eighteenth-century Villa Ca’ Sette

offers tasting menus, business lunches

offers a unique atmosphere that

and custom menus. The restaurant

combines history, tradition and mo-

overlooks a 6000 sqm park with

dern elements with style and creati-

open-air restaurant services. The

vity. From 1994 to 2000 it was in-

Villa Ca' Sette Hotel was opened

volved in a meticulous renovation

in May 2001. It consists of three

work. In 2000, the new Ca '7 re-

buildings - the Villa, the Farmhouse

staurant was opened, with its refined

and the Barchessa - which have

cuisine that ranges from the flavors

been restored maintaining a uniform

of the region based on the best

architectural harmony, with some

A JEWELLERY MUSEUM

been reopened to the public af-

IN THE PALLADIAN BASILICA

ter a five-year restoration that

design and modern tou-

The Palladian Basilica in Piazza

gave it back to the city in its full

ches. The Villa offers

dei Signori in Vicenza, the first

splendour. It currently hosts art

17 rooms and two sui-

public assignment of the famous

exhibitions and cultural events,

tes, all with different fea-

Renaissance architect Andrea

and should soon become home

tures to ensure maximum

Palladio, was included in the

to a jewellery museum covering

comfort and relaxation.

list of UNESCO World Heritage

an exhibition area of 410 square

www.ca-sette.it

Sites in 1994. It has recently

meters.

(Courtesy of Artù)

l’Orafo International 2013

33


Scienza

TECN

Organizzazione


OLOGIA

Trattamento • Recupero • Affinazione • Metalli preziosi e pregiati • Sali galvanici

Chimet spa Sede: Badia al Pino (Arezzo) Via dei Laghi 31/33 C.P. 79 tel 0575 4151 (6 linee r.a.) fax 0575 410.214 telex 570232 CHIMET I www.chimet.com admin@chimet.com Filiale di Vicenza Via Anconetta 49c/b tel 0444 303.345 fax 0444 511.369


e r r o T &

s e l t c p i r t a s i d N

that of Naples and Torre del Greco -

jewellery, watches, coral, cameos,

which can draw on the experience

pearls and costume jewellery - will

and expertise of major goldsmiths

meet for the second time the represen-

and companies deeply rooted in the

tatives of Eastern Europe jewellery in-

history of Italian jewellery. The exhibi-

dustry, invited by Club members. Con-

tion offers the best jewellery products

tacts are underway with Brazilian pro-

made of gold, coral and cameos, as

fessionals for the October 2013 edition.

well as jewellery made with both classic and modern processes and in line

TARÌ BIJOUX

The district of Naples and Torre

MONDO PREZIOSO

with the latest trends.

(17-18 March 2013)

del Greco is well represented

TARÌ CLUB EXPORT

An important innovation for foreign

Fashion jewellery and accessories

by Il Tarì, a structure of over 80

(10-13 May 2013)

buyers is the launch of the Tarì “Club

are now essential to complement

thousand sq.mt. that permanen-

(11-14 October 2013)

Export”, an event held during the

outfits. Trade fairs organisers have

tly hosts 400 jewellery compa-

Two events that anticipate the summer

“Mondo Prezioso” trade fair and open

understood this new demand from

nies and three trade fairs devo-

season and the holiday season. “Mon-

to all entrepreneurs visiting Il Tarì.

the market and created events de-

ted to gems, jewellery and fa-

do Prezioso” hosts every year all the

The purpose of “Club Export” is to

voted to fashion accessories. Tarì

shion jewellery. A safe, organi-

companies present at Il Tarì, and a-

contribute to the internationalisation

Bijoux is the first appointment of

sed area, where thousands of

bout 80 exhibitors from other Italian

of companies in the manufacturing

the new year with retailers, and ex-

Italian and foreign professionals

regions: the perfect showcase for the

hub. Next March, a selection of Il Tarì

hibitors represent some of the most

work in total freedom.

products made in a jewellery district -

top companies from different sectors -

creative companies in the industry.

40

l’Orafo International 2013


o c e r G l de NOT TO BE MISSED THE ROYAL PALACE OF CASERTA One of the most beautiful Italian royal residences, known throughout the world, the Royal Palace of Caserta is a place to be for those who are visiting this beautiful Italian region. Commissioned in 1750 by Charles III of Bourbon (Charles VII of Naples), who entrusted its direction and design to architect Luigi Vanvitelli, the Palace symbolises the wealth and power of the Bourbon monarchy and is now included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The monumental complex covers a huge, intact area, including the Royal Palace, the park, the English Garden and the Carolino aqueduct, beautiful landscapes and impressive Baroque settings, groups of statues, fountains and waterfalls. The entrance is opposite the railway station of Caserta. www.reggiadicaserta.beniculturali.it / www.arethusa.net

BASILIO LIVERINO

to gather the pieces in a museum,

WHERE TO STAY

different eras - from Louis XVI to the

MUSEUM

which he built near the factory,

Grand Hotel Parker’s

Directory, from Charles X to the Em-

The Basilio Liverino Museum, in

digging six meters into the rock

Naples

pire. The fine marble floors are

Torre del Greco, in the province

of Mount Vesuvius and equipping

A beautiful nineteenth-century buil-

made by skilled craftsmen from Na-

of Naples, is not only a rich col-

it with technologically advanced

ding on the seafront of Naples,

ples, while eighteenth and nineteenth

lection of over a thousand coral

materials. Each piece on display

with views of the Bay and Mount

century paintings adorn the walls.

pieces and cameos – including je-

is equipped with a carrying case

Vesuvius. Inside, the furniture and

Finally, the Hotel has a historical li-

wellery and sculptures – made in

that can protect it from a possible

decor are inspired by styles from

brary with over 600 volumes (from

different ages, by schools and

eruption and the walls of the mu-

the late nineteenth century

craftsmen from all over the world,

seum are covered with a special

to the present) available

but also a unique and special pla-

material that withstands high tem-

for guests. To complete this

ce. In 1986, Basilio Liverino, foun-

peratures. The Museum is open

plunge into the culture and

der of the company and the Mu-

to the public by appointment:

beauty of Naples, Grand

seum and of the collection, decided

info@liverino.it

Hotel Parker’s also offers the opportunity to visit its winery - Fattoria Villa Matilda - where guests can taste famous award-winning wines as well as extra virgin olive oil and cheese. www.grandhotelparkers.it (Courtesy of Artù)

l’Orafo International 2013

41


Passavinti, a historical Florentine jewellery brand, has given rise to a great restyling work carried out by three entrepreneurs, united not only by high-level management skills but, above all, a passion for beauty and dedication in seeking high quality and precision. The added value of Passavinti jewellery is definitely the fact that it is entirely made in Italy by skilled Florentine goldsmiths. Silver and bronze, enhanced by 18-karat gold plating baths, are the metals used to manufacture these pieces of jewellery, worked with the same traditional goldsmithing techniques used by the founder, Master Romano Passavinti.


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Italian jewellery

Bright lights, precious jewels

Crieri by Antonella Garello

Bracelet from the Multifile collection, in rose gold and white diamonds.

l’Orafo International 2013

47


Italian jewellery

Roberto Coin Ponte Vecchio Gioielli A bracelet from the Iside collection, in rose gold with amethyst and diamonds.

White and black gold earrings and ring, with amethyst and pink and yellow sapphires.Vulcano Collection

Utopia From the Eden collection, a ring in rose gold, white and brown diamonds, South Sea pearl.

Novarese & Sannazzaro Diamonds, pink sapphires and semiprecious stones set in rose gold necklace. Sahara collection.

48

l’Orafo International 2013


Auraria Papavero ring, in gold with white diamonds, pink sapphires and chalcedony.

l’Orafo International 2013

49


Italian jewellery

Pinomanna Pendant form the Penelope collection, in white gold and diamonds with blue enamel.

Davite & Delucchi Radiosa collection ring, in white gold, sapphires and diamonds.

Salvatore Arzani White gold necklace with white diamonds and sapphires.

50

l’Orafo International 2013


Bibigì Pendant from the Tres Jolie collection, in rose gold with smoky quartz and diamonds. Ring and earring as a set.

Graziella Necklace from the MagliaMarina collection, 18-carat gold, diamond pavé, enamel and silk.

Stefan Hafner From the Aristocratica collection, a pair of earrings in rose gold and diamonds.

l’Orafo International 2013

51


Italian jewellery

Angry Gioielli Jointed ring from the Campanule collection, in gold with green diamonds, white diamonds and amethyst.

Giorgio Visconti From the Energia collection, butterfly-shaped Alya ring, in rose gold with white diamonds. Matching necklace.

Polello The Eterno ring, white and rose gold with diamonds, is made up of a solitaire ring and a pair of earrings.

Pesavento Burlesque collection: bracelet, earrings and a ring in rose gold set with diamonds. 99 pieces only.

52

l’Orafo International 2013


Alfieri & St. John Ring from the Around the World collection, in white gold and diamonds. Rings and necklaces are available in different sizes.

Faraone Gioielli A necklace in white gold, pearls, onyx and black diamonds. F di Faraone collection.

PierDuca Gioielli White gold and black rhodium plated gold rings, with white and black diamonds. Le Boules collection.

l’Orafo International 2013

53


Italian jewellery

Lenti & Villasco White gold badges, surrounded by black and white diamonds.

Anteo Gioielli Taverna Gioielli From the men’s collection, a pair of Regimental cufflinks in yellow gold and enamel.

Crieri A bracelet in burnished white gold, with carré cut black diamonds.

54

l’Orafo International 2013

Button covers made of white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and white diamonds.


company profiles

Alcozer & J

Crieri S.n.c. di Erika Zanin e Cristiano Annaratone

Headquarters Via Mannelli, 15/R 50136 Firenze (FI) ph. ++39 055 6236346 fax ++39 055 6266121 E-mail: alcozer@alcozer.it www.alcozer.it Contact Francesco Khoury francesco@alcozer.it Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, brooches. Brass Silver: 800, 925 Women Principal export markets Russia, America, Europe, Middle and Far East. Italian fairs attended Macef Milan, White Milan International fairs attended Bijorhca Paris, International Jewellery Fair Las Vegas, International Jewellery London, Made in World Montecarlo, HKTDC International Jewellery Hong Kong

58

l’Orafo International 2013

Headquarters Via Napoli, 8 15048 Valenza (AL) ph. ++39 0131 955583 fax ++39 0131 955583 E-mail: crieri.it@hotmail.it Contact Alessandro Saracino Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Gold: 375, 585, 750 Platinum: 850, 900, 950 Men / Women International fairs attended Hong Kong (September)

Dinacci Fratelli S.r.l. Headquarters Via G. Orefici, 7 80133 Napoli (NA) ph. ++39 0823 838974 fax ++39 0823 513156 E-mail: fratellidinacci@libero.it www.fratellidinacci.it Contact Flavio Dinacci fratellidinacci@libero.it Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, semi-finished items; assay and recovery of precious materials. Gold: 750 Platinum: 950 Men / Women / Children Principal export markets Europe, USA, Arab Emirates Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO Il TarĂŹ Marcianise (CE) International fairs attended Istanbul Jewelry Show


Erika S.r.l.

FAOR S.p.A.

FARO S.p.A.

Headquarters Via M. Talice, 13/15 15040 Mirabello Monferrato (AL) ph. ++39 0142 63380 fax ++39 0142 640921 E-mail: info@erikagioielli.it www.erikagioielli.it/com

Headquarters Via del Gavardello, 68 52100 Arezzo (AR) ph. ++39 0575 381238 fax ++39 0575 381458 E-mail: info@faor.it www.faorspa.com

Headquarters Piazza San Sepolcro, 1 20123 Milano (MI) ph. ++39 02 72213.1 fax ++39 02 72213270 E-mail: faro@farospa.it www.farospa.it

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings. Gold: 585, 750 Silver: 925 Men / Women

Contact Alessandro D’Itria info@faor.it

Contact Massimo Ceresa export@farospa.it

Production Bracelets, chains, semi-finished items. Gold: 375, 585, 750 Silver: 925 Bronze Brass

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, chains, necklaces, other. Gold: 585, 750 Silver: 925 Men / Women

Principal export markets Switzerland, Spain, France Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO, Oroarezzo

Principal export markets Worldwide Italian fairs attended Oroarezzo, VICENZAORO

Principal export markets Europe, North America, South America, North Africa, Japan, Israel International fairs attended Las Vegas

International fairs attended Hong Kong

l’Orafo International 2013

59


company profiles

F.I.OR. S.p.A.

Grani S.r.l.

Graziella Group S.p.A.

Headquarters Via XXV Aprile, 14 52020 Ponticino (AR) ph. ++39 0575 898341 fax ++39 0575 898798 Mail: fior@fior.it www.fior.it

Headquarters Via Di Arezzo, 159/M 52045 Foiano della Chiana (AR) ph. ++39 0575 66500 fax ++39 0575 661930 Mail: info@granipreziosi.it www.granipreziosi.it

Headquarters Via Ernesto Rossi, 9 52100 Arezzo (AR) ph. ++39 0575 32641 fax ++39 0575 326464 E-mail: info@gruppograziella.it www.graziellaluxury.it

Contact Ilaria Calvani

Contact Emanuel Bonomo Emanuel@granipreziosi.it

Contact eleonora.gori@gruppograziella.it

Production Semi-finished items. Gold: 333, 375, 417, 585, 750, 875, 916 Silver: 925 Platinum: 900, 950 Palladium: 950 Goldfilled, Silverfilled, Bonded Brass, Bronze Principal export markets Europe, Asia, America, Oceania Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO, OroArezzo International fairs attended Hong Kong

60

l’Orafo International 2013

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, brooches. Silver: 925 Women Principal export markets U.S.A., Turkey, Russia, Spain Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO (three editions), OroArezzo

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, chains, necklaces, brooches, semi-finished items. Gold: 375, 585, 750, 875 Silver: 925; Bronze Women / Men / Children Principal export markets Europe, Africa, Asia, America Italian fairs attended OroArezzo, VICENZAORO (three editions), Luxury & Yachts Verona International fairs attended Hong Kong, Shanghai, Sharijah E.A.U., Junwex Moscow, Abu Dhabi, Istanbul Jewelry Show, Vietnam Jewellery Show, Int. Jewellery Week HK


Ititoli S.r.l.

Mannucci Gioielli

Nardi S.r.l.

Headquarters Via Orefici, 25 15048 Valenza (AL) ph. ++39 0131 942323 fax ++39 0131 947474 E-mail: info@ititoli.com www.ititoli.com

Headquarters Via Mandorli, 13 06065 Passignano s/T (PG) ph. ++39 075 828423 fax ++39 075 6976893 E-mail: info@mannuccigioielli.com www.mannuccigioielli.com

Headquarters Via Nunzio Todaro, 4 52010 Subbiano (AR) ph. ++39 0575 420404 fax ++39 0575 420405 E-mail: nardigold@nardigold.it www.nardigold.it

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Gold: 375, 585, 750 Silver: 925 Men / Women

Contact Chiara Mannucci info@mannuccigioielli.com

Contact Robert Sagramati robert@nardigold.it

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Gold: 585, 750 Silver: 925 Bronze, brass Men / Women Principal export markets U.S.A., Dubai

Production Specialized in fine and thin chains, in all gold and silver caratages, and in not precious materials. Rings, bracelets, earrings, chains, necklaces, semi-finished items. Gold: 333, 375, 585, 417, 750, 800, 875, 917; Silver: 800, 925 Copper, brass, bronze Women / Men /Children

Italian fairs attended Oroarezzo, VICENZAORO

Principal export markets Worldwide

Principal export markets 21 Countries in 3 Continents Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO (three editions), Il TarĂŹ International fairs attended London; in stand by for other exhibitions

Italian fairs attended OroArezzo, VICENZAORO International fairs attended Istanbul, Hong Kong, Poland, Baselworld, Mexico, JA New York, Las Vegas l’Orafo International 2013

61


company profiles

P.V.Z. S.r.l.

Passavinti S.r.l. Reali S.r.l.

Headquarters Via Cassia, 11/E 52047 Cesa (AR) ph. ++39 0575 842377 fax ++39 0575 842470 E-mail: info@pvzoro.it www.neonero.it Contact Andrea Santiccioli andrea@pvzoro.it

Headquarters Via Marconi, 118 50131 Firenze (FI) ph. ++39 06 5896445 E-mail: info@passavinti.it www.passavinti.it Contact Mirco Zoppini m.zoppini@passavinti.it

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces. Gold: 585, 750 Women

Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, chains, necklaces, brooches. Silver: 925 Bronze Women

Principal export markets Middle and Far East, Europe, South America, USA

Principal export markets Spain, Bulgaria, Croatia, Rumania, Poland

Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO (three editions), OroArezzo

Italian fairs attended Macef Milan, Il TarĂŹ Marcianise (CE)

International fairs attended Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair

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l’Orafo International 2013

Unoaerre Industries S.p.A. Headquarters Strada E, 5 - Loc. San Zeno 52100 Arezzo (AR) ph. ++39 0575 9251 fax ++39 0575 381764 E-mail: info@unoaerre.it www.unoaerre.it Contact Alessandro Bruni bruni@unoaerre.it Production Rings, bracelets, earrings, chains, necklaces, brooches, semi-finished items. Gold: 375, 585, 750, 875 Silver: 925; Brass, Bronze Men / Women / Children Principal export markets France, Japan, UAE, USA., Canada, Mexico, Panama, Australia, South Africa, Russia, Turkey, Germany, UK, Brazil, Spain, Lebanon, China, Philippines, Thailand, Scandinavia Italian fairs attended VICENZAORO (three editions), Oroarezzo (+BI-Jewel) International fairs attended Hong Kong (September-March), JCK Las Vegas


l'Orafo International 2013  

The best italian jewelry, the production district, market data, trends

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