Page 1

Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 32 • November-December 2015

Holiday Traditions

Italian Holiday Cookies • The Evolving Latke • The Feast of the Seven Fishes • Heirloom Seeds


Waterfront Dining on Mission Bay

OceanaCoastal.com | 858.539.8635

Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa

# OceanaCoastal


November-December 2015

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS TWO CENTS

2

TIDBITS

4

THE GOOD EARTH: GRAPES: TRANSFORMING NORTH COUNTY’S LANDSCAPE, ONE ACRE AT A TIME

12

LIQUID ASSETS: VINTAGE DECADENCE: THE ART OF WINE AND CHOCOLATE PAIRING

32

TO YOUR HEALTH: HEIRLOOM SEEDS: MUTUALLY ACCENTUATING OUR EPIGENETIC LANDSCAPE

38

EDIBLE READS: DONABE: JAPANESE CLAY POT COOKING

40

MEMOIR: JULIAN APPLES, THE FALL OF AN EMPIRE

42

RESOURCES & ADVERTISERS

44

FARMERS’ MARKETS

49

FEATURES ITALIAN HOLIDAY COOKIE TRADITIONS

8

GIGI’S ROAD TO TERRA MADRE

15

THE EVOLVING LATKE

17

COOKING UP A FUTURE

21

BUON NATALE: THE FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES

24

AG TOOK ROOT EARLY IN ESCONDIDO AND CONTINUES TO GROW

28

THE STATE OF THE SMALL FARM

34

EXPLORING SAN DIEGO’S ARTISANAL UNDERBELLY

37

SUSTAINING AGRICULTURE, ONE SEED AT A TIME

41

Photo: Riley Davenport


{Two Cents} Keeping traditions alive…but fresh!

Photo: David Pattison

“California has no seasons,” I overheard again at a weekend event. Perhaps it was a visitor from a colder climate where the seasons are more distinct. Seasons run together here in sunny, temperate Southern California, but we don’t live in the tropics. The signs of seasonal change, though subtle, are clear to those of us who have lived here a few years. Between the recent heat waves, we’ve welcomed the cooler evenings, shorter days and softer light of fall. With that, we begin to think about family gatherings in November and December, and our family traditions. Our extended family, usually including a few friends who are alone for the holidays, always get together for Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve happy hour (with lots of friends and neighbors dropping in) and Christmas dinner. Christmas Eve is all about being together and catching up. A day-afterChristmas hike to a local summit was added to the usual festivities a year or two ago, and could become one of our new traditions. But our food traditions are the most enduring.

Riley Davenport and John Vawter

There is usually a turkey and stuffing at Thanksgiving, and in recent years the bird is purchased from a local farmer. Christmas dinner might center around locally raised lamb or pork. The side dishes and desserts are contributed by several family members and don’t follow a prescribed course. We’ve gotten away from providing everyone’s “favorite” dish (and thereby way too much food) and shifted to using seasonal vegetables in novel ways and putting new twists on old recipes. This keeps the traditions alive but allows each dish to be prepared creatively. San Diegans are lucky to have so many fresh, locally raised vegetables and fruits in late fall and early winter. Our year-round growing season and over 50 farmers’ markets a week make it easy for most of us to spend our holiday food dollars where they will do the most good— with a local farmer. The somewhat limited end-of-summerearly fall produce selection at the markets will soon give way to trays brimming with leafy greens, squash, brassicas, root vegetables, kiwis, persimmons and more. Locally raised meat of all kinds, including goose, rabbit and buffalo, is also now easy to find at most of the larger farmers’ markets. This issue we explore holiday traditions, some familiar to us (cookies and latkes) and some not (Buon Natale: The Feast of Seven Fishes). We hope you are inspired to find ways to honor your family traditions with something old and something new.

Subscribe!

Six great issues a year! Get six issues a year of Edible San Diego delivered right to your door, each one filled with delicious recipes, thought provoking subjects and the stories of our farmers, ranchers, fishermen, chefs, winemakers and brewers.

1 year $33, 2 years $54, 3 years $72 Subscribe on line at ediblesandiego.com or send your information (name, street address, city, state and zip code) and check made payable to Edible San Diego to Edible San Diego, P.O. Box 83549,

San Diego, CA 92138

2

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation Publication of the Year

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

CONTRIBUTORS Leah Di Bernardo

CONTACT Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138 619-222-8267 info@ediblesandiego.com ediblesandiego.com

Aimee Della Bitta Patrick Brady Chris Rov Costa Christine Dionese Escondido History Center Caron Golden ADVERTISING Noreen Kompanik For information about Kay Ledger rates and deadlines, Lauren Mahan contact Riley at Michael Mahan Kurt Metzger 619-222-8267 Brijette Romsted riley@ediblesandiego.com Vincent Rossi Lyudmila Zotova No part of this publication may be PUBLISHERS used without written Riley Davenport permission of the publisher. © 2015 John Vawter All rights reserved.

EDITOR

Every effort is made to Riley Davenport, avoid errors, misspellings Executive Editor and omissions. If an error Britta Turner, comes to your attention, please let us know Managing Editor and accept our sincere apologies. Thank you. COPY EDITORS Doug Adrianson John Vawter Michelle Honig

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

COVER PHOTO Chris Rov Costa


FOODIES

MEET FARMERS

IC BEAC CIF H PA

TUESDAY

farmers’ market

EVERY TUESDAY 2:00PM - 7:00PM Bayard St. between Garnet Ave. & Grand Ave.

EVERY THURSDAY 3:00PM - 7:00PM Herman St. between University St. & North Park Wy.

EVERY SATURDAY 8:00AM - 2:00PM W. Cedar St. between Kettner Blvd. & Front St.

619.233.3901 | SANDIEGOMARKETS.COM

WE’RE FEEDING SAN DIEGO AND TOGETHER WE’RE FEEDING AMERICA Through our highly organized distribution model, every $1 donated provides four meals.

VENDOR-101.COM

Ready to start your new market business? November-December 2015

edible San Diego

3


{Tidbits} Café Gratitude serves up 100% organic food for thought

Photo: courtesy of Cafe Gratitude

As CIO (Chief Inspiration Officer) at Little Italy’s newest plantbased restaurant, Café Gratitude, Ryland Engelhart has been tasked with ensuring that restaurant staff are lit up and grateful about where they’re working and why. “My job is to maintain a cultural richness that is absolutely vital to the success of this restaurant,” he says. “I want to make sure our employees are connected to management, to one another and to the customers, so that personal growth happens inside the work environment.” This “attitude of gratitude” permeates every aspect of the dining experience at Café Gratitude, from the “I am” affirmations (such Ryland Engelhart as “ I am fabulous” and “I am transformed”) that decorate windows, menus and even to-go bags,

to custom plates that carry the message “What are you grateful for?” The family-owned restaurant’s business model is based upon a concept of “sacred commerce.” Engelhart explains: “Sacred commerce is a culture of love in the workplace. Our main mission is promoting health from a body and mind perspective.” All food items and ingredients—including condiments like ketchup and hot sauce—are 100% organic and prepared on site, daily.

Photo: Mike Mahan

Café Gratitude 1980 Kettner Blvd. Hours: 8am to 10pm 619-736-5077 CafeGratitude.com

~Lauren Mahan

Chef Marcel Childress’ culinary offerings inspired by rustic roots We interviewed Chef Marcel of Rustic Root, the Gaslamp’s only locally sourced rooftop restaurant, about what he brings to the table as their new executive chef. ESD: What motivates you as a chef ? CMC: Food is a way of showing love, affection and passion when people gather together for a meal. I experienced this at a very young age, seeing what went on in both my grandmothers’ kitchens. To this day, I still use some of their recipes. ESD: How do your own cultural roots play a role?

ESD: Examples? CMC: French: mussels and frites. Asian: Furikake-Crusted Hamachi. Italian: lobster pappardelle and butternut squash ravioli. Rustic: a 16-ounce no-frills pork chop. Comfort: rustic fried chicken and butter beans (my grandmother’s recipe). ~Lauren Mahan

4

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

Photo: Mike Mahan

CMC: I grew up eating comfort food, which involves concentrating on the flavors and heartiness of the meal. On the other hand, my formal training is in French technique. Add in Asian and Italian flavors, plus a touch of California style to the mix, and you’ve got the menu at Rustic Root. Chef Marcel Childress

Rustic Root 535 Fifth Ave., San Diego 619-232-1747 RusticRoot.com Hours: Daily from 4pm Valet parking available


Holiday Traditions Begin at The Lodge at Torrey Pines Join us for Seasonal Activities and Dining Events

L A JOLL A, CA LIFOR NI A L od geTor r e y P i n e s . co m | 858.453.4420

SURROUND YOURSELF IN NATURE Savor natural beauty and farm-to-table cuisine at our worldclass culinary center and organic gardens. Feel inspired at our private event venue beneath magniďŹ cent Mt. Kuchumaa, near San Diego, where we invite you to hold corporate events, private celebrations, and wellness retreats. Day and destination packages available.

877- 440-7778 LACOCIN A Q U ECA N T AE V E N T S . C O M

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

5


{Tidbits} The catch of the day is up to you at Sally’s Seafood on the Water When dining at most restaurants, the fresh catch of the day and even how it’s prepared are usually at the chef ’s discretion. But that’s not the case at Sally’s Seafood on the Water, located bay-front at the Manchester Grand Hyatt San Diego.

“Most of our customers are local San Diegans who like to frequent the nearby Tuna Harbor Dockside Market” at 598 Harbor Lane, says Executive Chef Jay Payne. “But they don’t necessarily want to prepare a whole fish themselves. So they drop it off at Sally’s by 2pm, where they talk to the chef about the best way to prepare it and select their sides and sauces. When they return that night, their dinner is served in a relaxing, family-style setting.”

Photo courtesy of Manchester Grand Hyatt

Whether it’s visiting family, a group outing or just the two of you, you can now enjoy delicious, freshly caught seafood that you personally select at the San Diego dockside market, but without having to prepare it yourself, thanks to the new Ocean 2 Table interactive dining experience at Sally’s.

Saturday dinner service only Advance reservations required (619-358-6740) Manchester Grand Hyatt San Diego 1 Market Place, San Diego 92101

~Lauren Mahan

Un Mundo Mexican Grill: The healthy choice for people on the go “Dr. Umansky had the original vision for Un Mundo,” Galen explains. “And it took us a year to realize it. Plus we have a small space, so we had to be smarter about using that space more efficiently.” Photo courtesy of Un Mundo Mexican Grill

The result is a simplified menu featuring quality, locally sourced ingredients delivered fresh daily. Convenient countertop ordering via personalized menu cards allows patrons a choice between a build-your-own SoCal Mexican burrito (French fries optional), taco, salad or bowl. In addition they offer a selection of flavorful signature dishes, as well as a tempting array of sides, including papas, black beans, lime-cilantro rice and guacamole. Selected draft and bottled beers, as well as Un Mundo’s signature agave-wine margarita, are also available. And we highly recommend the sugary, traditionally prepared churros to finish off your meal. You’ll be licking your fingers. In an area like San Diego’s Golden Triangle, where healthcare facilities and pharmaceutical companies abound, a Mexican restaurant offering healthy, locally sourced food for busy, onthe-go professionals and locals alike should be well received, to put it mildly. Such was the vision of Un Mundo Mexican Grill owners Dr. William Umansky, a La Jolla-based practicing surgeon, and Galen Zanetakos, a restaurant business veteran.

6

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

~Lauren Mahan Un Mundo Mexican Grill 4150 Regents Park Row, #170 La Jolla 92037 858-412-6509 UnMundoMex.com Hours: Daily 11am – 10pm


We strive to p our custom rovide ers with the highe st qua natural fo lity ods available !

DEXTER’S DELI Natural Foods for pets coolest toys and gifts Proudly offering Open farm pet food

PRODUCT STANDARD:

AVOIDANCE OF GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms) WE HAVE 25 OTHER PRODUCT STANDARDS! CHECK THEM OUT AT WWW.JIMBOS.COM FIVE CONVENIENT LOCATIONS

We purchase our grapes from vineyards in Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Lodi and Sonoma and produce wine locally.

HEALTH FOOD FOR DOGS AND CATS SINCE 1996. CARLSBAD: 760.720.7507 2508 EL CAMINO REAL DEL MAR: 858.792.3707 1229 CAMINO DEL MAR DEXTERSDELI.COM November-December 2015

edible San Diego

7


Italian Holiday Cookie Traditions

By Aimee Della Bitta

Photos by Chris Rov Costa

8

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


T

he paper is frayed and has a yellowish tint. The words are hard to read. There’s a list of ingredients, but the measurements are sporadic and the instructions are random at best. It seems obvious that the only reason this wrinkled piece of paper has made it from generation to generation and kitchen to kitchen is not because it’s an accurate recipe or even usable for most people, but because it’s treasured by the family that inherited it.

Lemon Ricotta Cookies with Lemon Glaze

When I was growing up I remember my grandmother congregating with her cousins and close friends to bake cookies for the holidays. To a child, these women seemed like an army, buzzing around the kitchen with laser focus. Dividing, kneading and rolling out dough and then filling tins with dozens and dozens of biscotti, pignolis, butter cookies and pizzelles. The fruits of their labor would later be shared with family and friends and would adorn our own holiday table.

2 cups sugar

Makes 36 cookies

lemon juice and lemon zest. Beat to combine. Stir in dry ingredients until completely blended.

Preheat oven to 375°

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Spoon the dough (about 1½ tablespoons for each cookie) onto the baking sheets. Bake for 15 minutes, until slightly golden at the edges. Remove from the oven and let the cookies rest on the baking sheet for 20 minutes.

2½ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 2 eggs

For Lemon Glaze:

1 (15-ounce) container whole-milk ricotta cheese

1½ cups powdered sugar

3 tablespoons lemon juice

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 lemon, zested In a medium bowl combine the flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In a large bowl, combine the butter and sugar using an electric mixer to beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until incorporated. Add the ricotta cheese,

Food memories certainly have a way of transporting us back to our past, but they also have a strong influence on our future. I will always think of my grandmother when I taste a perfectly made pizzelle or take a bite from a chewy, almond flavored pignoli cookie. It’s those memories that remind me to take time during the holidays to bake with my own family. To me, one of the best gifts I can give this season is to instill a new food memory upon someone I love.

Combine the powdered sugar, lemon juice and lemon zest in a small bowl and stir until smooth. Spoon about ½ teaspoon onto each cookie and use the back of the spoon to gently spread over the top. Let the glaze harden for about 2 hours. Recipe courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis

Here are some of my favorite Italian cookie recipes, some passed down and others discovered over the years. I hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

D

Aimee is a San Diego-based writer and freelance marketing consultant specializing in brand building, on-point promotional copy and creative messaging for editorial and corporate clients. She loves to try out new recipes and hang out with her two kids and husband.

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

9


Pizzelle—Italian Waffle Cookie Makes about 24 cookies 3 large eggs, well beaten ¾ cup granulated sugar ¾ cup unsalted butter, melted 1½ cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 teaspoon anise extract Powdered sugar

Pizzelle, pronounced pit-ZELL-eh, are traditional waffle cookies. The name comes from the Italian word for “round” and “flat” (pizze). The recipe below is flavored with anise extract, but vanilla or lemon extract can also be used. For this traditional Italian cookie you will need a readymade pizzelle maker. They are available for purchase at your local Williams-Sonoma or through Amazon.com. Typically, the pizzelle maker stamps a snowflake or flower pattern onto both sides of the thin golden-brown cookie. Enjoy the cookie as is or add chocolate or hazelnut spread to the top. If feeling indulgent, make a sandwich with the cookies by adding cannoli cream to the center.

Almond Biscotti The name biscotti originates from the Latin phrase bis coctus, meaning “twicecooked.” They can be stored for long periods of time. Note that biscotti will improve in flavor if made 1–2 days in advance of serving. The dry, crunchy cookie is delicious with coffee or espresso. Makes about 42 cookies 1 cup sugar 1 stick unsalted butter, melted 3 tablespoons brandy 2 teaspoons pure almond extract 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup whole almonds with skin, lightly toasted, cooled and coarsely chopped. 3 large eggs 2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 10

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

In a bowl stir together sugar, butter, brandy and extracts. Then stir in almonds and eggs. Next, stir in flour, baking powder and salt until just combined. Cover dough with plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350° with rack in middle. Using slightly wet hands, halve dough and form 2 (16- by 2-inch) loaves on an ungreased, large baking sheet. Bake until pale golden, about 30 minutes. Carefully transfer loaves to a rack and cool for 15 minutes. Cut loaves into ¾ inch slices with a serrated knife. Arrange biscotti, with cut side down, on a clean baking sheet and bake until golden, 20–25 minutes. Transfer to rack to cool completely. Recipe courtesy of Toni Oltranti

In a large bowl, add and beat the ingredients in the order listed, beating well after each addition. Drop by rounded spoonfuls onto the center, or slightly higher, of the pre-heated pizzelle maker, about 2 tablespoons total. Close the lid and cook until the steaming stops, about 60 seconds. Remove the cookie with a fork or spatula and place on a cooling rack to dry. Repeat until all batter is gone. Dust pizzelles with powdered sugar and serve.


NEW COOKBOOK FEATURES LOCALLY GROWN ORGANIC PRODUCE! By Helene Beck, Owner of Beck Grove, Certified Organic Grower in Fallbrook

Jewels From My Grove persimmons, kumquats & blood oranges — reflections & recipes Jewels From My Grove by Helene Beck is the culmination of more than 30 years she and her husband, Robert, lovingly spent restoring an ailing tract of farmland in Fallbrook, California. Their vision and passion bore fruit — a wonderfully healthy sustainable organic citrus grove — and this cookbook is Helene’s love letter to her three favorite orangehued jewels — persimmons, kumquats, and blood oranges. In addition to beautiful grove and food photography, you’ll find recipes for some of Helene’s most cherished citrus-centric dishes that are both easy and challenging, savory and sweet, all wrapped in a story that is compelling and heart-warming.

Jewels From My Grove persimmons, kumquats & blood oranges REFLECTIONS & RECIPES

Helene Beck

JEWELS FROM MY GROVE Persimmons, Kumquats & Blood Oranges — Reflections & Recipes By HELENE BECK Paperback with flaps • 8x10 inches 224 pages • 100+ recipes Beautiful color photo with every recipe $25.95

www.lavignefruits.com PO BOX 2890 • FALLBROOK, CA

Give the gift of farm fresh produce!

92088

We grow happy grapes.

Gift Card www.specialtyproduce.com/giftcard

www.specialtyproduce.com/fmb

Ramona tasting room open Sat & Sun 11am - 6pm barrel1.com

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

11


{The Good Earth}

Grapes:

Transforming North County’s landscape, one acre at a time. By Lauren Mahan

Photos by Mike Mahan

T

hanks to the worst drought in years— from which some predict we’ll need decades to recover—more and more homeowners in North County agricultural areas are converting their citrus and avocado groves to less thirsty and more fire resistant vineyards. The following are two stories of couples with no previous viticulture experience whose landscaping transformation projects have transformed them into winemakers.

Above: View of Vicki and Pete Montgomery’s Pauma Vista Winery vineyard.

12

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

Vicki and Pete Montgomery Valley Center Pauma Vista Winery In 2011, retired firefighter Pete Montgomery and his wife, Vicki, a high school counselor, removed one acre of existing citrus and avocado trees on their Valley Center property and converted it to a grape vineyard. “It was trial and error all the way,” recalls Vicki, who is pursuing a certificate in oenology from UC Davis. The Montgomerys do their own weed control and hire out for certain services, such as pest control. The rest of the maintenance and production work is

shared with friends and fellow vintners. “Winemaking is a very noncompetitive business,” says Pete. “Each wine has its own unique character. So we share the work, as well as the equipment, which most small wineries can’t afford to purchase.” Today Pauma Vista Winery produces about 45 cases (approximately 100 gallons) of wine per year. “We currently produce Petite Sirah, Syrah and Zinfandel wines,” Vicki adds. They recently added Tempranillo grapes, with the hope of producing more interesting varietals. Their wine tasting room will soon be completed. Stay tuned.


Marilyn and Steve Kahle Ramona Woof ‘n Rose Winery 17073 Garjan Lane, Ramona, CA 92065 760-788-4818

sold their grapes to another winery in Ramona. It wasn’t until 2007 that Woof ‘n Rose Winery produced its own first vintage, which, at that time, included five Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot) and Grenache Noir. Since then they have added Alicante Bouschet, Montepulciano and Carmenere.

Missouri natives Marilyn and Steve Kahle purchased their five-acre Ramona property in 1987 and decided to clear some of their property to plant grapes. As Marilyn recalls, “It was a fire retardant issue, as well as an esthetic one, since we love the appearance of the grapevines as landscaping.” As the vines matured they

But the Kahles prefer to do vineyard maintenance and harvesting themselves. “It keeps us young,” laughs Steve. The Woof ‘n Rose outdoor tasting room is open Saturdays and Sundays 11am–5pm or weekdays by appointment (Marilyn@ woofnrose.com).

D

Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park and points south (Baja). She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego and a frequent feature article contributor.

The winery produces 300 to 350 cases per year, with bottling, labeling and boxing provided by a mobile bottling service.

Woof ‘n Rose Winery vineyards with entrance to their patio “tasting room.”

Getting started

Did you know…

Hill Top Winery in Valley Center offers a full line of vineyard installation and management services for homeowners looking to transition their existing landscaping to grapes. Contact:

• Father Junipero Serra brought the first grapes to San Diego in the late 1700s.

Mark Mahin, VP operations mark@hilltopwinery.com 714-553-5664

Additional resources Chris Broomell, vineyard consulting Vesper Vineyards, Escondido 760-749-1300

Vicki Montgomery samples grapes.

Marilyn Kahle in the winery.

• Muscat Canelli grapes flourished in Escondido until Prohibition, after which only two wineries survived. • Grapes are a naturally occurring vine that in some areas can be dry farmed with no additional irrigation

Curds and Wine, winemaking supplies 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego 858-384-6566

• A grape vineyard requires about 35,000 gallons of water per acre per year, compared to 800,000 for avocados and 1 million for citrus.

San Diego Amateur Winemaking Society (SDAWS) www.sdaws.org

Source: Hill Top Winery

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

13


Local Fish from Local Fishermen Fresh Local Seafood on the docks in Point Loma 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com

14

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


Photo: Leah Di Bernardo

Gigi’s Road to Terra Madre By Lauren Mahan

How Slow Food’s youngest delegate is helping to pave the way for better school lunchroom choices

I

n the spring of 2015, delegates from over 100 countries gathered in Turin, Italy, for the Tenth Annual Terra Madre World Summit, which brings together advocates for sustainable agriculture, fishing and breeding with the goal of preserving the quality and biodiversity of food. Among them was 12-year-old Gigi Rose Di Bernardo of Temecula, who used the opportunity to film her documentary, Gigi’s Road to Terra Madre.

com) in Temecula. “My mom is helping to update our school garden so that kids will want to come out and learn how to grow things. We even hold classes right in the garden. And next year I have permission to sell what we grow to the people who make the school lunches. So we’ll have honestto-goodness garden-to-school lunches!”

“My goal is to create a worldwide movement aimed at helping kids make better food choices,” Gigi Rose explains. “So many kids at school are obese or sick with diabetes or ADHD. I hope that by seeing my short video, they will start to think about where their food comes from and begin to value the sacrifices being made to keep our food heritage alive.” Gigi Rose attends Hillcrest Academy, where she is president and founder of the Slow Food Hillcrest chapter. “I literally grew up in the Slow Food movement,” she says. Her mother, Leah Di Bernardo, is a Slow Food chef and part owner of E.A.T Marketplace & Eatery (eatmarketplace.

In addition to a chance to meet with organic food advocate and restauranteur Alice Waters, a highlight of Gigi’s Terra Madre adventure was her interview with Slow Food Europe President Carlo Petrini, who founded Slow Food in 1986 in an attempt to preserve traditional and regional cuisine as an alternative to fast food. According to Petrini, “the only way to combat the manipulative influence of heavily advertised processed foods is to bring children back to the family table through the greater power of love.” Another highlight of Gigi’s trip was her introduction to the concept of disco soup parties. “You retrieve food that is going to be otherwise wasted,” she explains, “from farmers, farmers’ markets or supermarkets. Then you make a soup or something else

traditional to your area and you have a party. Who wouldn’t want to dance and chop up vegetables?” For more information on Slow Food, go to slowfoodusa.org.

D

Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park and points south (Baja). She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego and a frequent feature article contributor. Above: Gigi Rose and Slow Food USA President Richard McCarthy.

“Imagine if the value of the farmer were woven into the school curriculum. Gardens in schools would become classrooms and the values of Slow Food would be woven into the course of each school day. By inviting children back to the table, the place of equality and care, we solve the problems of childhood hunger and obesity and bring children into a new relationship with food, nature and culture.” Alice Waters 2015 Terra Madre World Summit, Turin, Italy November-December 2015

edible San Diego

15


this is not organic

grow with us

16111 Old Milky Way Escondido, CA 92027 (760) 644-3404 www.spvsoils.com

SAN PASQUAL VALLEY SOILS 16

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


The Evolving Latke By Caron Golden Photos by Chris Rov Costa

L

ike most Jewish kids of Eastern European, or Ashkenazic, descent, I grew up eating potato latkes, or pancakes, every Chanukah. My extended family of grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins would gather on the first night of the holiday at one of our homes and the air would soon be heavy with the aroma of potatoes cooking in oil. Because it was technically a full meal, someone would make brisket or roast chicken. Someone else would make

vegetables and salad. But the centerpiece of the meal, the only dish that counted that evening, was the latkes—crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. And we’d take sides over what accompanied them. Those who were on the savory side ate them with salt and sour cream. The rest would go for sugar and/or applesauce. David Wasserman, owner of coffee truck Joes on the Nose, grew up in Brooklyn eating them. He’s an applesauce guy— and the applesauce, he says, was his

mom’s homemade, made using a Foley mill with a variety of Northeast apples. “While others had Christmas trees and cookies, we had potato pancakes,” he recalls. “My mother tended to make a big batch of latkes, then freeze them and warm them up in the oven through the holiday and after. They were around a half-inch thick and silver dollar pancake size.” Chef Matt Gordon of Urban Solace, Solace & the Moonlight Lounge and Sea & Smoke, also grew up eating latkes. He November-December 2015

edible San Diego

17


Traditional Latkes via Molly Goldberg Molly Goldberg was a gossipy Jewish-American housewife in the Bronx who liked to chat across her kitchen window with her neighbors in the show “The Goldbergs,” which started on radio in 1929 and in 1949 moved to television and ran until 1954. Molly was played by actress Gertrude Berg. In 1955, Berg wrote and published The Molly Goldberg Jewish Cookbook. My grandmother and mother adored this book, which is filled with traditional Ashkenazic Jewish recipes— everything from blintzes and gefilte fish to matzo brei and borscht. My mom still has it. They made their latkes from it, although my Nana added the eggbread (also known as Challah) to the recipe. We still make it this way. Makes 20 pancakes 5 russet potatoes, grated

2 slices eggbread, softened with water and then squeezed of the moisture Vegetable or peanut oil (or shortening)

1 onion, grated

Salt and pepper

2 eggs, beaten 3 tablespoons matzo meal ½ teaspoon baking powder

Put grated potato and onion in strainer over a large bowl. Knead it to get moisture out, then let sit in bowl to draw out potato starch. Dump water

but keep starch at bottom of bowl. Put potatoes and onion mixture in a tea towel or cheesecloth and wring to get out moisture. Add to bowl with other ingredients. Mix well, including starch. Fry in cast-iron pans in small amounts of oil. Drain on paper towels and keep warm on baking sheets in a 200º oven.

S apparently swings both ways on the savory/ sweet spectrum of accompaniments. “I’ve always loved them—with applesauce as a kid and with sour cream and chives and other yummy stuff as I got older,” he says. Today he goes “full Monty with the sour cream and applesauce.” Gordon remembers eating them and playing dreidel—and arguing with his sister about who won— when he was a kid in Los Angeles.

back in 168 B.C.E. which the holiday celebrates—never would have had latkes since they would never have seen a potato. It was only at the end of the 18th century that German Jews began making potato pancakes, but not for Chanukah. And these potato pancakes weren’t just from grated spuds, as we’ve come to assume are traditional, but also mashed, according to Gil Marks’ Encyclopedia of Jewish Food.

Latkes may be iconic Ashkenazic Chanukah food now, but they’re actually relatively new in Jewish history. The Maccabees—the priestly family who led the successful rebellion against the Syrians

But potatoes became a staple of Eastern European Jewish food and eventually the potato latke, made from hand-grated russet potatoes, became associated with Chanukah in Eastern Europe and then

18

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

the U.S. by the mid-19th century, as immigrants arrived here. Given how relatively recently the potato latke became part of Jewish history, why not riff on tradition and create other forms of pancakes to celebrate the festival of lights? After all, the main point of the holiday is to celebrate the miracle of the single jar of oil that burned for eight days. “We change them up a lot,” Gordon says. “You could start with the base recipe using 50% starchy potato, but for the rest you can add shredded sweet potatoes or root veggies like beets and celery root, lots of herbs, or fennel.”


Curried Sweet Potato Latkes From The New York Times via David Wasserman of Joes on the Nose Makes 16 (3-inch) pancakes 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled ½ cup flour 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon brown sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper or to taste 2 teaspoons curry powder 1 teaspoon cumin Salt and pepper to taste 2 large eggs, slightly beaten ½ cup milk (approximately) Peanut oil for frying 1. Grate the sweet potatoes coarsely. In a separate bowl mix together all the dry ingredients. 2. Add the eggs and just enough milk to the dry ingredients to make a stiff batter. Add the potatoes and mix together until the batter is moist but not runny. If too stiff, add more milk. 3. Heat ¼ inch of peanut oil in a sauté pan until it is barely smoking. Drop in the batter by tablespoons and flatten. Cook several minutes on each side, until golden. Drain, serve.

S Wasserman came to adapt an unusual recipe from The New York Times.

easiest to use to really apply pressure to them,” he explains. “You want to squeeze all the water out of the taters before you mix in your other stuff.” And, he adds that it’s important to use plenty of oil. He likes grapeseed oil because it’s better under heat than olive oil.

“I remember my mother using sweet potatoes when I was a teenager,” Wasserman says, “and I’m always a fan of mixing things up. I always like to serve the curried sweet potato recipe alongside a traditional recipe during our annual Chanukah party.”

Wasserman, however, advises against using a ton of oil. “It’s unnecessary to deep fry latkes,” he says. “I use just enough oil to cook it.”

Before you go off and make any of these recipes, Gordon and Wasserman have some tips to make the pancakes as crispy as possible. Gordon emphasizes squeezing the heck out of them. “It’s worth investing in some cheesecloth because it really is the

And, he warns, “As in any pancake, the first batch in the pan will be your worst. I always eat the first round before anyone else gets it.” My recommendations? Fry them in castiron skillets to get them really crispy. And

if you’re entertaining a crowd, make them ahead of time and freeze them. Then reheat them in the oven. Making latkes is a hot and messy affair. It’s fun, but it may not be what you want to do when company is there. And have plenty of sour cream and applesauce.

D

Award-winning freelance writer Caron Golden is the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff and Edible San Diego’s blog Close to the Source. She appears frequently on radio, and has contributed to Saveur, Sunset, Culinate, Riviera, the San Diego Union-Tribune, the Los Angeles Times and many other publications.

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

19


Hand crafted garden tools. Small batch preserves and organic bath & beauty. Waterwise succulents and plants for pollinators. Non GMO seeds and all natural soils. Exceptional books and full leaf teas. Fine products for the urban gardener.

GREEN THUMB SUPER GARDEN CENTERS 1019 W. San Marcos Blvd. 760-744-3822 (Off the 78 Frwy. near Via Vera Cruz)

• CALIFORNIA NURSERY PROFESSIONALS ON STAFF • HOME OF THE NURSERY EXPERTS • GROWER DIRECT

www.supergarden.com

Now on Facebook 20

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

home + garden 1021 Rosecrans Street, San Diego, CA 92106 619.677.2866 enconcordia.com Located in the heart of the Point Loma Village.

WITH THIS VALUABLE

Coupon

30

% OFF

Any Christmas Decoration

• Must present printed coupon to cashier at time of purchase • Not valid with any sale items or with other coupons or offers • Offer does not include Sod, Gift Certificates, or Department 56 • Not valid with previous purchases • Limit 1 coupon per household • Coupon expires 12/24/2015 at 6 p.m. sdhs


Cooking Up a Future

Program gives challenged teens skills to get ahead By Caron Golden

L

et’s face it: If you’re a teenager who has found yourself in a group home it may feel like there aren’t many options as you look toward the future. That’s how Kurt Metzger and his twin brother felt when they were kids. Now Metzger, the chef/owner of Kitchen 4140 in the Morena Boulevard Design District, has launched an internship program with the Toussaint Academy to give kids like him a vision for their future— and the skills to make it possible. “I was tired of seeing kids bumming change downtown and decided to start a program that would teach them to respect each other and themselves and give them some skills to help them create a good future for themselves,” he said. Last spring, after reaching out to and reviewing several homes in the San Diego area, he connected with the Toussaint Academy, a local group home serving homeless youth ages 14–18 in San Diego, to launch an internship program that provides residents—two at a time—with a comprehensive 12-week training capsule. The idea is not so much to train students to become chefs—although you never know— but to put them in an environment in which they can develop their interpersonal, professional and labor skills to give them an understanding of what’s expected in a professional work environment.

Photo courtesy of Kurt Metzger

“I was tired of seeing kids bumming change downtown and decided to start a program that would teach them to respect each other and themselves and give them some skills to help them create a good future for themselves.” Kurt Metzger Kitchen 4140’s general manager, Ashley Drake. One of the first to show an interest was 16-year-old Sajed Lacey. “My curiosity about the food industry drove me to apply for the internship at Kitchen 4140,” he said. “I haven’t always dreamed of becoming a chef or working in a restaurant, but now I am considering it.”

This isn’t a mere do-gooder program. Metzger and the professional staff at Toussaint Academy created a plan that clarifies the program’s structure and specifically what the students must do to be able to participate in it. Students must submit resumes and cover letters to

Lacey was one of two interns accepted into the new program and the first to graduate.

The other student had to drop out. It’s a tough gig. Metzger is demanding. Not only do the interns take three-week shifts in four different areas of the restaurant— dishwashing/back-of-house cleaning, food preparation, utility/front-of-house cleaning, and hosting and serving—but they are treated and disciplined like other staff members, held to the same code of conduct. Metzger visits the home to inspect their rooms and review their grades. The interns November-December 2015

edible San Diego

21


“On a personal level, Chef Kurt has taught me that you should always try your hardest and do the right thing to succeed in life, no matter how difficult it might seem. On a professional level, he taught me how to foresee possible challenges and learn to adapt to my surroundings.” Sajed Lacey must maintain a passing GPA while in the program and, Drake explained, Metzger and the staff who visit the home multiple times throughout the internship to check in with the young adults, cook for and with them, talk with them and motivate them to join the program. Tough love. For Lacey, though, the tough part seems to have rolled off his back. Not only did he graduate from the program, but exposure at an event where other chefs were cooking has yielded three job offers. For him, the hardest part of the internship wasn’t the structure and demands, it was what can be challenging for anyone new to a kitchen: mastering knife skills. The best part? “Making friends with the staff members at Kitchen 4140,” he said. And they showed their affection for him at a dinner held at the restaurant in early August, attended by all the residents, plus staff and board members. In a moving ceremony, Lacey was presented with an engraved chef ’s knife, a Kitchen 4140 apron and a letter of recommendation.

Drake saw Lacey go through a metamorphosis. “Sajed’s experience and growth were not just what we hoped for, but extraordinary,” she recalled. “When he first started the program, he was a very quiet, reserved young man. Throughout his time with us during his internship, we watched him literally blossom before our eyes. During our Summer Crush event, Sajed became a leader and took it upon himself to help direct and guide his peers as needed to serve the event. He showed initiative and a heart-warming pride in himself and our restaurant. We will always be in touch with Sajed. He has formed close friendships with a few of our employees, and we view him as a part of our family.” For Toussaint Academy Director James Bailey, the program is giving residents the opportunity to learn a trade or skill that they can potentially use if they choose to stay within the same field. “Of course we would like for them to go to college or university, and that should be the number one priority,” he said, “but this is another opportunity if they feel college may

not be right for them. We will continue this opportunity as long as Chef Kurt would like to have us. For those who show promise, employment is the goal. Chef Kurt has eight chefs who are willing to hire our residents after going through the internship once they successfully demonstrate they can work in the restaurant industry.” For Lacey, his life has been changed by both the program and his relationship with Metzger. “On a personal level, Chef Kurt has taught me that you should always try your hardest and do the right thing to succeed in life, no matter how difficult it might seem,” he said. “On a professional level, he taught me how to foresee possible challenges and learn to adapt to my surroundings.”

D

Award-winning freelance writer Caron Golden is the author of the blog San Diego Foodstuff and Edible San Diego’s blog Close to the Source. She appears frequently on radio, and has contributed to Saveur, Sunset, Culinate, Riviera, the San Diego Union-Tribune, the Los Angeles Times and many other publications.

Photo courtesy of Kurt Metzger

22

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


A new eatery, bar & bakery with artisan breads, small production wines, craft beers, cheeses, cured meats and specialty groceries produced by craftspeople from the Pacific Time Zone. 5277 LINDA VISTA ROAD • SAN DIEGO, CA 92110 • 619.260.8446 WWW.PACIFICTIMESD.COM • @PACIFIC_TIMESD

BREAD BAKERY WINE BEER CHEESE MEAT

THANK YOU FOR 10 GREAT YEARS! www.leucadiafarmersmarket.com

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

23


Buon Natale— The Feast of the Seven Fishes By Aimee Della Bitta Photos by Chris Rov Costa

24

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

G

rowing up in an Italian-American home, our traditions often centered on family, food and the belief that the two together are the foundation for memorable experiences, especially during the holidays. My father and his family immigrated to America when he was 9 years old, so my siblings and I grew up with a very strong sense of Italian culture and customs. One of my favorite traditions was celebrating Christmas Eve with the Feast of the Seven Fishes. If you research the origin of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, you’ll find some contradicting information. It’s true that the practice of eating only fish and seafood on Christmas Eve has roots in Southern Italy, where it was called the Vigil (La Vigilia). You’ll also find that it goes back to early Roman Catholic days when abstinence from meat and milk products on the eve of holy days was strong.


After that things get … well, a little fishy. Ask Italian-Americans today what this celebration represents and how the feast should be prepared and you’ll hear a variety of responses. Some say the seven fishes represent the seven sacraments. Others believe that you should actually serve 12 types of fish, one for each apostle. Each family may have its own tradition within the tradition, but the common thread remains: Gather around a table on Christmas Eve with family and friends and indulge in an abundance of seafood.

This is how I remember my family celebrating Christmas Eve, and how I hope my children will remember their Christmas Eve celebrations when they’re older. Sure, my grandmother always started her feast with baccalà (salted cod). Now, my husband serves homemade pasta with sage butter and lobster. The value of the tradition is not in the details, it’s in the memories.

family and friends, feast on fresh seafood and toast to the memories you’re creating.

D

Aimee is a San Diego-based writer and freelance marketing consultant. She specializes in brand building, on-point promotional copy and creative messaging for editorial and corporate clients. She spends her free time trying out new recipes, hanging out with her two kids and husband, and enjoying the beautiful seaside town she’s happy to call home.

Below is a sample menu for your own feast. It’s for you to decide how you adorn your table. There are no rules—the only intent is that this holiday season, you gather with

Three additional recipes can be found on ediblesandiego.com.

Roasted Shrimp Cocktail If you’ve never served roasted shrimp cocktail before, try this easy preparation. You’ll be instantly hooked on its simplicity and taste. Serves 6–8 Preheat oven to 400°. 2 pounds peeled and deveined large shrimp with tails on (12–15 count) 1 tablespoon olive oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Coat shrimp with olive oil, salt and pepper and spread them in a single layer on sheet pan. Roast for 8–10 minutes, or until shrimp is just pink, firm and cooked through. Let cool. Serve with cocktail sauce.

Linguine and Brown Butter Lobster Sauce This dish will instantly become a family favorite. It is an elegant and delicious way to add a pasta dish—either homemade or store bought—to your menu. The recipe calls for linguine, but you can choose any type of pasta.

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Parmesan cheese, grated (optional) In a large pot, bring 8 cups of water to a rolling boil. Add pasta and cook for 7–8 minutes, or until pasta is al dente, and drain.

Serves 4–6

In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat until golden, approximately 4 minutes. Add the sage and cook until crisp. Stir in salt, pepper and nutmeg.

1 pound linguine or pasta of your choice 1 pound lobster meat ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

Add lobster meat to frying pan and sauté until warmed through.

6 fresh sage leaves (torn into pieces) ½ teaspoon salt

Toss brown butter sauce with pasta and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

¼ teaspoon ground pepper

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

25


Cioppino—Italian Fish Stew It’s called the Feast of the Seven Fishes and you’ll easily meet your quota with this comfort fish stew. So, if you want to really simplify your feast, while still treating your guests to an abundance of seafood, serve this dish. Whether you serve it as part of your menu or as the main dish, it is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Serves 6 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced 1 onion, chopped 3 large shallots, chopped 2 teaspoons salt 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped ¾ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes, plus more to taste ¼ cup tomato paste 1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice 1 ½ cups dry white wine 5 cups fish stock 1 bay leaf 1 pound Manila clams, scrubbed

1 ½ pounds assorted firm-fleshed fish fillets, such as halibut or salmon, cut into 2-inch chunks

salt and sauté until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, ¾ teaspoon of red pepper flakes and sauté 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste. Add tomatoes with their juices, wine, fish stock and bay leaf. Cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer until the flavors blend, about 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a very large pot over medium heat. Add the fennel, onion, shallots and

Add the clams and mussels to the cooking liquid. Cover and cook until the clams and

1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded 1 pound uncooked large shrimp, peeled and deveined

Join our CSA! Our organic vegetables and fruits are nationally known for their delicious flavor and fresh, sun-ripened quality. Check out our 4-week trial period and see for yourself.

mussels begin to open, about 5 minutes. Add the shrimp and fish. Simmer gently until the fish and shrimp are just cooked through and the clams are completely open, stirring gently, about 5 minutes longer (discard any clams and mussels that do not open). Season the soup, to taste, with more salt and red pepper flakes. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve. Recipe courtesy of Giada De Laurentiis

The Rose

wine bar + bottle shop

local wines | handcrafted food | event space

760-746-6006 • www.bewiseranch.com 26

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

7 days a week | 2219 30th St. | South Park 619.281.0718 | therosewinebar.com


Whole Roasted Red Snapper Cooking a whole fish looks more intimidating than it is. Roasting it is actually quite simple and it makes for an incredibly elegant presentation. Serves 4–6

½ cup finely chopped mixed herbs (thyme, oregano, parsley, etc.)

top of each fish. Cover container tightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (can be done up to 6 hours before cooking).

8 lemon slices

Carefully transfer fish to a large baking sheet. You don’t need to oil the baking dish because you want the skin to stick to the pan, which makes it easier to filet. Bake for 30–35 minutes.

Preheat oven to 400°. Mix herbs, garlic and olive oil in a container big enough to hold both fish. Season mixture with plenty of coarse salt. Rub the herb mixture over both fish, and be sure to get plenty into the cavities near the jaw, eyes and mouth. Place the fish in the container. Add 4 lemon slices to the

2 (3- to 4-pound) red snapper (substitute for whatever whole fish you like), gutted and scaled 3 cloves garlic, smashed ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Remove from oven and serve with additional lemon wedges and plenty of napkins.

V V II SS II T T O OU UR R U UR RB BA AN N W W II N N EE R RY Y

Taste Local! featuring the wines of featuring the wines of

GG

GG

Stehleon Stehleon and and Vesper Vesper Vineyards Vineyards MADE FROM 100% SAN DIEGO COUNTY GRAPES MADE FROM 100% SAN DIEGO COUNTY GRAPES

P

298 298 Enterprise Enterprise Street, Street, Suite Suite D D Escondido Escondido CA CA 92029 92029 (See map on reverse side) (See map on reverse side)

Friday Friday && Saturdays Saturdays 11-6 11-6 Sundays Sundays 11-5 11-5 or by appointment or by appointment

Local craft beers on draught Market organics Local shellfish

P H O N E : (760)741-1246 P H O N E : (760)741-1246 StehleonVineyards.com StehleonVineyards.com •• VesperVineyards.com VesperVineyards.com

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

27


Ag took root early in Escondido and continues to grow

View looking west down Grand Avenue, Escondido, circa 1910. Photo: Escondido History Center

By Vincent Rossi

A

griculture is truly Escondido’s heritage.

In 1885 the original developer, Escondido Land and Town Company, built a “model ranch”—a working farm to demonstrate the viability of fruit production in the Escondido Valley, which up to that point had been cattle, sheep and graingrowing country. By the early 1900s, citrus fruit production was one of the valley’s chief industries. For almost 50 years, Escondido was home to three large packing houses: one for oranges, one for lemons and one for avocados. At their peak, these facilities ranked among the largest operations in the world in their respective produce categories. By the end of the 1960s, however, the local orange and lemon packing houses were gone, closed or merged with other packing houses in more distant locations. 28

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

The consolidation of processors reflected broader issues that increasingly challenged local farmers. One of the big issues was encroaching urban development.

of the farming community, Eddie Grangetto and John Burr, co-founded Escondido Growers for Agricultural Preservation (EGAP).

More than 60 years after its incorporation in 1888, the city of Escondido’s population stood at just 6,544 in the 1950 U.S. Census. Ten years later the population had jumped to 16,377 people, a 150% increase. This was the beginning of the suburbanization of northern San Diego County. Ensuing decades saw continued growth, so that by the 2010 census Escondido had 143,911 people.

EGAP’s main purpose, expressed on its website, is to “preserve agriculture in Escondido and surrounding cities for generations to come.”

Rising costs for labor and water added to the challenges facing those trying to make a living through agriculture. But the agricultural spine was still there, albeit overshadowed by the urbanization around it. In 2011, two longtime members

Grangetto is a third-generation avocado and citrus farmer. His family has also run a local farm and garden supply business for over 60 years. Burr’s family has been growing citrus in the Central Valley since 1869. He began growing avocados in Escondido 10 years ago. The immediate issue that brought EGAP into being was water. About a quarter of the water supply used by local ag is from Escondido’s city-owned water company, Burr said. The rest comes from the San


Diego County Water Authority, which is part of the Metropolitan Water District that imports water from the Colorado River. With the growing drought and adjustments for environmental reasons, costs from both sources began to soar in the early 2000s, while deliveries were reduced to the point that some local farmers have had to literally turn off the taps and go out of business.

Under EGAP’s leadership, farmers and farm supporters began attending city council meetings and hearings in greater numbers, Burr said.

Grangetto spoke of the necessity for group action, but he figured farmers’ strong sense of individualism might hinder such action. However, by 2011, the ag community was ready, according to Burr. “They really came together on EGAP,” said Burr. “They realized that agriculture was very dominant [in Escondido] until the ’70s, then [came] urban sprawl. They felt the need to get the city’s attention.”

One of the important fruits of EGAP’s collaborative strategy was the publication, in November 2012, of the report “Agriculture in Escondido: Contributions, Challenges and Opportunities.” It was prepared by Mechel Paggi and Fumiko Yamazaki, two economists with the Center for Agricultural Business at California State University.

• In addition to providing an aesthetically pleasing green space corridor around the city, the groves provide an environmentally important source of carbon sequestration, as well as a firebreak. In October 2012, EGAP led its first agricultural summit, bringing together members of the farming community, government officials and academics. The turnout on the part of city government and the public was “pretty impressive,” Burr said. “Three or four hundred people showed up.” These efforts began to pay off. Late in 2013, the Escondido City Council voted to exclude agricultural water customers from a 12% rate increase. Rates for residential users went up by 14% at the same time. But there was no

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Among the highlights of the extensive document:

• Ag supports between 2,000 and 3,000 jobs.

Photo: Chris Rov Costa

Among those they were able to recruit as active members were Burnet Wohlford, Phil Henry and Mike Hillebrecht—“all heritage farmers,” Burr said, people whose families had been farming in the area for generations.

EGAP also began partnering with other organizations like the San Diego County Farm Bureau, the California Avocado Commission and the University of California Extension Service. Through this collaboration they obtained the grants and expertise to better educate government officials and the public about agriculture’s continuing role and contributions to community life.

• Agriculture contributes over $240 million each year to the Escondido economy.

Farmers growing avocados faced tough times with dought and the increasing cost of water. Many had to let their trees go and investigate other crops.

Innovative farmers are beginning to grow more drought-tolerant crops like this exotic Dragon Fruit. It grows well in this area and brings a good price at market. November-December 2015

edible San Diego

29


It’s a win-win for all parties. Water that would have been dumped in the ocean is cleaned and reused to help grow food. As Farm Bureau Executive Director Eric Larson [said] “Every gallon of recycled water that farmers use is going to release a gallon of potable water for everybody else.”

appreciable backlash. EGAP and its partners had done their homework. They were able to furnish results from a 2011 survey done by the county water authority showing 87% of respondents supported a lower water price for farmers.

City government representatives also began quarterly meetings with EGAP on wastewater issues. The agriculture community has been using recycled water for some time, but questions had been raised about the salinity of the water negatively affecting certain crops, such as avocados. In April 2014 the city council endorsed a plan to spend an estimated $258 million on infrastructure improvement to upgrade the quality of city recycled water for irrigation use. The centerpiece of this upgrade is the

Easterly Reclaimed Mains Extension Project, getting under way soon. Under this project water from the city’s Hale Avenue Sewage Treatment Plant, in the past clean enough to be pumped to the coast for ocean disposal, will now be diverted to a local demineralizing plant. There it will be treated to a level usable for city agriculture and made available to local ag customers. It’s a win-win for all parties. Water that would have been dumped in the ocean is cleaned and reused to help grow food. And, as Farm Bureau Executive Director Eric Larson told a local newspaper back when

EGAP and city officials were first discussing this idea, “Every gallon of recycled water that farmers use is going to release a gallon of potable water for everybody else.”

“We needed to elevate the importance of agriculture to the city,” said EGAP’s John Burr, “and they responded.”

D

Freelance writer Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a weekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His special interests are history, politics, and culture, with a special appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books.

For the Farmer in You! Become a Friend of Farming to support San Diego’s farmers - receive exclusive invitations to free farm tours, a subscription to Edible San Diego and more when you join!

Farming Organically Since 1976

Customize your box with the local, organic produce and farm products you want.

$15

off your first box

COUPON CODE:

EDIBLESD

Sign Up For Home Delivery Today! 1.800.796.6009 www.farmfreshtoyou.com

30

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

Become a Friend at www.FriendsofFarming.com


November-December 2015

edible San Diego

31


{Liquid Assets}

Vintage Decadence: The Art of Wine and Chocolate Pairing

Wine and chocolate—a match made in heaven for the wine connoisseur and chocolate lover! By Noreen Kompanik No setting could be more perfect for this uniquely decadent pairing than the oldest operating winery in Southern California. Originally founded in 1889, Bernardo Winery was purchased by a Sicilian immigrant, Vincenzo Rizzo, in 1927. The winery has been owned and operated by his family for three generations since then. A visit to this rustic, vintage Rancho Bernardo winery is like turning back the hands of time. With its antique winemaking equipment and tree-shaded historic buildings, its bucolic ambience is reminiscent of simpler times. Thirteen quaint village shops complement the tranquil beauty of the surrounding vineyards, olive trees and mosscovered Italian fountains. The idea of pairing wine with chocolate came from Rossi Rizzo, the current managing owner. “We wanted to encourage people to walk around for a complete winery experience” said Rizzo. Adding the chocolate shop was a stroke of genius, the beginning of one beautiful marriage. Winery guests choose their favorite wine from the tasting room and stroll through a picturesque countryside courtyard to The Sweet Shoppe, which offers perfectly complementary chocolates to pair with each wine. “This is unbelievable” said one patron sipping a Petite Sirah while enjoying a dark raspberry truffle. Simply divine. Sallyanne, the resident Sweet Shoppe steward, explained that the amount of cacao (cocoa) in the chocolate is a key

32

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

element in the wine pairing experience: 61% cacao content pairs perfectly with a Syrah; 72% with a Zinfandel. As with food, when pairing wines with chocolate, lighter chocolates complement lighter-bodied wines. Deeper, more intense-flavored chocolates pair well with more robust wines. When the ideal chocolate is appropriately paired with a varietal, something magical happens, according to Sallyanne. “Their eyes light up as the distinct flavors in the wine absolutely dazzle the palate”. The Sweet Shoppe features gourmet confectionary treats from 26 local chocolatiers. Culinary delights range from raspberry truffles to chocolate jalapeño peanut brittle and chocolate-covered wine grapes to orange-infused dark chocolate with almonds. These artisan chocolatiers create heavenly handcrafted candies using many ingredients sourced from local farmers’ markets. Linda’s Brittles emphasize high nut density in her third-generation family recipe. Her pistachio brittle paired with a glass of Chardonnay adds pleasurable sweetness to the wine. So Rich Chocolate’s dark and lustrous Ghost Chili Chocolate tasted divine with the Petite Sirah. Its owner, Johna Nilson, uses only fair-trade imported chocolate and fresh ingredients from local farms. My Riesling paired with a milk chocolate pecan toffee by The Toffee Box was exquisite. Handcrafted in small batches using an old secret family recipe, this mouthwatering toffee is made from fresh sweet cream butter, premium chocolates and nuts.

As with food and wine, there are no absolutes. There are industry suggestions, but each individual decides what pairs best together. One thing is certain—the sign in the Sweet Shoppe indicating “chocolate and wine make everything fine” couldn’t be more right!

D

Bernardo Winery Tasting Room open daily 10am–6pm 13330 Paseo Del Verano Norte San Diego, CA 92128 858-487-1866 Noreen Kompanik is a freelance travel writer and San Diego resident. She has a passion for adventure, cooking, wine and travel. Her published stories can be seen on her Facebook site What’s In Your Suitcase?


Fridays are FRESH in La Mesa! FRUITS & VEGETABLES • HERBS & GRAINS FLOWERS • EGGS & CHEESE RARE FINDS AND HOT FOOD

LOCAL WINES for Gifts & Gatherings...

We bring the farm to you. • 21st YEAR OF OPERATION • @lmmarket

26502 Hwy 78 | Ramona

EdwardsWinery.com 910 Gem Lane | Ramona

ChuparosaVineyards.com

Both Wineries Open Saturdays & Sundays 11-5

Farm-to-table • CraFt beer • boutique Wine

626 S tremont St, oCeanSide • 760-453-2940 230 S Santa Fe ave,viSta • 760-630-4311 FlyingpigpubkitChen.Com

THE SOURCE FOR LOCAL FOOD.

in

BUILD YOUR OWN SUBSCRIPTION BUNDLE. 3 REGIONS FOR $60. ediblesubscriptions.com

Kitchens Indoors and Out Since 1980

M

Michael Mahan design and construction License # 395296

760-749-1505 www.mmahan.com November-December 2015

edible San Diego

33


The State of the Small Farm By Vincent Rossi Photos by Lyudmila Zotova

W

hat’s the state of the small farm in San Diego County?

That’s a very relevant question for Edible San Diego readers or anyone sharing our magazine’s mission of supporting a sustainable local food economy. The small farm forms the heart of local food economies. But our small farmers face many of the same challenges that have led to the decline and/or consolidation of small and medium-sized farms across the country. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) conducts an agricultural census every five years. The last one, in 2012, showed that “the United States had 2.1 million farms-down 4.3% from the last agricultural census in 2007. This continues a long-term trend of fewer farms.” San Diego County has not been immune to that trend. 34

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

Each year the San Diego County Department of Agriculture, Weights and Measures publishes a report on agricultural production in the county for the previous year. The most recently released figures at press time are for 2013. The report states that the county has a total of 5,732 farms, “more than any other county in the United States.” However, that figure is down from the 6,687 given in the 2012 report, a 17% drop in a year. So, the short answer to our question on the state of the small farm might be: It’s challenged, and we have to understand why. Even defining a small farm can get complicated. The latest crop report notes that of those 5,732 county farms, “68% range from 1–9 acres,” and the median size is “just 4 acres.”

Redefining Crop Value Ramiro Lobo is the small farms and agricultural economics advisor with the San Diego County Farm and Home Advisor Office, part of the University of California’s Cooperative Extension Service. Asked for the working definition of a small farm, Lobo cited the standard promulgated in the late 1990s by the USDA: “any farm that grosses $250,000 or less.” But he quickly added that while many states and counties used that definition, it was problematic for San Diego County because here “you have higher-value crops grown on smaller plots.” He gave a hypothetical: “A 25,000-square-foot (about ½ acre) greenhouse in Encinitas [growing Above: David Barnes, co-owner of Crows Pass Farm in Temecula, surveys crops that he is still watering. He has had to let some fields go.


Drought has dried up the pond at Crows Pass Farm.

David Barnes carefully selects which crops he continues to water.

“You’ve got to be the most efficient per acre for your crop type.” Eric Larson ornamental flowers and plants] grosses significantly more than a 5,000 acre cattle ranch in Borrego Springs.” He emphasized “value per acre” rather than gross income or total acreage as a significant standard of measurement for small farmers and farming operations in general. Lobo also pointed out the predominance of what he called “higher-value crops” like ornamentals and cut flowers in generating agricultural revenue in the county as opposed to vegetables and other food crops. This is starkly demonstrated in the 2013 crop report, which showed that of the $1.8 billion in value produced by county agriculture, $1.1 billion, or 60%, was produced by the nursery and cut flower products sector. Applying a formula suggested by Colleen Carr, San Diego County’s senior agricultural standards inspector, revealed that growers of indoor flowering and foliage plants realized value per acre of $45,700, compared to $939 per acre for avocado growers.

It gets more complicated. San Diego County Farm Bureau Executive Director Eric Larson warned that “value per acre is relative.” A high-value crop may

require more labor and other expenses, he said. He noted for instance, that ornamentals, which bloom 12 months a year, would require more full-time employees than crops with longer growing seasons, like avocados. “You’ve got to be the most efficient per acre for your crop type,” said Larson.

Keep up with changing tides “We’re professionals,” said Eddie Grangetto, a third generation avocado and citrus farmer in Escondido. He is also a co-founder of Escondido Growers for Agricultural Preservation (EGAP), profiled in a separate article in this issue. Grangetto was speaking of farmers needing to upgrade their skills, like other professional workers. But, he added, the fluctuations of growing perishable product doesn’t result in the steady income of an urban professional. “Revenues can fluctuate dramatically,” he said, as does the difference between revenue and profit. Citing lemons as an example, Grangetto said,“You can only make a good return on them every eight or ten years or so.” The tradeoff is “the lifestyle,” said Grangetto. “You ask yourself, ‘Is it really

worth it?’ But then I go out on the freeway [seeing the daily commute] and I know I couldn’t do this.” However they might be defined, the Farm Bureau’s Larson said that most of the small farmers in the county were growers of food products. When asked about the future for such farms, “That’s an open-ended question,” Larson replied,. “I think there’s an opportunity for small farms if they do two things: “First, find themselves a pretty exclusive niche—branding their product, doing something exclusive, processing something from their product, adding value.” “Second, especially for volume marketers [like citrus or avocados], you must be the most efficient and produce substantial value per acre for your crop type.” Talks with some local farmers showed they were taking such advice to heart. Tom Page, co-owner with his wife, Mary, of Page’s Organics, an organic farm in Ramona, offers a good example of finding and working several “niches.” The Pages raise and sell 20 varieties of heritage and hybrid tomatoes, along with a variety of other produce, from their own farmstand in November-December 2015

edible San Diego

35


Photo: Chris Rov Costa

David Evans and Ryan Connelly at their two-acre farm in Ramona.

the summer and fall. They also sell wholesale to selected stores including Jimbo’s and the Ocean Beach People’s Co-op. At the same time, the Pages propagate sprouted plants from seedlings, which they deliver personally to garden stores and gardening clubs from March through May. “It’s working great,” said Tom Page of his business model, adding that he was looking at adding some nearby acreage. Tom Page also has a “day job” as a regional deli trainer at Jimbo’s, where he encourages the use of healthy recipes. David Barnes, co-owner of Crows Pass Farm in Temecula, also has a “day job” as general manager at another farm, Mountain Meadow Mushrooms in Escondido. His wife and farm co-owner, Tina, recently took a job “outside” the farm as well, Barnes said. They have hired two employees to help run the farm. Crows Pass has been supplying San Diego County restaurants with fresh produce for two decades. But while they used to deliver direct, they now work through distributors other than in their home base of Temecula. “Twenty years ago we used to run two trucks twice a week to San Diego,” said Barnes. But when distributors started supplying local restaurants, he went that route, saving on the costs of drivers and insurance, he said. Barnes spoke of tailoring what he grows to what he’s sure he can sell.

36

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

“We grow just the stuff we can kill,” he said, meaning to sell profitably. “Certain crops that grow well here, cherry tomatoes—we grow great cherry tomatoes. We figure out who our distributors are, what we can sell, etc.”

When selling to distributors you only get about half for each unit of product. Small growers are especially hard hit by that because the distributors, or wholesalers, are always looking for a deal.”

Connelly Farms in Ramona began selling organic produce directly to customers at an onsite farmstand in 1985. Over the ensuing years they’ve been able to add deliveries to county restaurants, CSA boxes and a unique “micro-farm” option for individual consumers, restaurants and/or businesses seeking to grow their own produce.

Connelly’s colleague Tom Page also avoids working with distributors.

Co-owner Ryan Connelly said he’s continuing to follow that model “but it’s been hit and miss. The produce stand stays pretty constant but the delivery side has been difficult.” Connelly offers his CSA customers week-toweek terms, rather than the more-common seasonal, monthly or yearly plans others offer. “That makes me have to grow enough for the flush times, because we never want to run short, but that makes us flush with product when the orders fall short. It’s been more of a challenge than we planned on.” He sees the same fluctuations with his micro-farm channel. “Unfortunately there are lots of people who want to start a micro farm but lose interest or they don’t really use enough of the produce to make it worth it,” Connolly said. “Even some commercial customers come and go. Connelly has so far avoided selling through distributors. He feels it’s “a dead end game.

“Distributors require crops that will hold well in storage and transportation,” Page said. “We don’t grow those types of crops and couldn’t grow enough for their supply chain anyway. Selling local is a much better value for everyone.” At the same time, Page wasn’t ruling out the distribution channel for other growers. “Farmers can choose if they want to do something like that or not but if it helps the sale and you’re passing the costs on then why not?” So, what is the state of the small farm in San Diego? Good, if you can find your niche. Or, as David Barnes said, “Keep the day job.”

D

Vincent Rossi has been a contributor to Edible San Diego since 2008. He is the author of three books on San Diego County history and writes a weekly blog, The San Diego History Seeker. His special interests are history, politics, and culture, with a special appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a research and publishing company for family history, memoir and historical books.


Spend the day with Epicurean San Diego visiting local farms, coffee roasters, butcher shops, distilleries, urban wineries and more! By Lauren Mahan

O

nce you’ve signed up for an Epicurean San Diego “Food, Farm and Libation Tour,” be prepared to get your hands dirty—literally. “With your average culinary tour, you don’t get to experience whether what you’re eating is grown, sourced and crafted locally,” says Epicurean founder Stephanie Parker. “What we offer is more of a handson experience, in that participants get to dig up veggies on the farm, feel the warmth of freshly roasted coffee beans and tour inside the facility where salami is made.” A graduate of San Diego State University’s Robert L. Payne School of Hospitality, Parker is no stranger to the late nights and long hours of the restaurant business. After a three-year stint in San Francisco “eating and drinking their way” through the City by the Bay, she and husband, Dan Parker, also an SDSU graduate, decided in 2014 to return to their San Diego roots. Fueled by her passion for supporting local farmers

and artisans, self-proclaimed locavore Parker created Epicurean San Diego as a means of showcasing San Diego’s stunning array of fresh, organic and delicious foods. “And what could be more fun than hopping in a van with friends and experiencing the artisanal offerings of one of the most beautiful destinations in the world,” she adds. Public tours are held on Saturdays, beginning at 11am and ending around 5:30pm, and are limited to a maximum of 12 adults. The current itinerary includes stops at five different locations—Suzie’s Farm, Café Virtuoso, San Pasqual Winery, the Meat Men and Society Brewing Company—with a farm-to-table lunch on the farm provided

“Every time I go down to San Diego I spend time with Stephanie because I know I will always meet someone new, try something new and drink something new. If you love craft food and drink, get in this van.” Adam Dulye, Executive Chef, Brewers Association

en route by K-Pasta. But Epicurean’s tour destinations will soon be expanding. “San Diego has the largest number of farms per capita of any county in the nation, currently around 6,000,” says Parker. “So there’s no lack of potential there.” She’s also working on introducing a North County route in 2016, as well as what she terms a “Beer Geeks Tour.” “It would be a variation of a brewery tour,” Parker says. “Guests would learn about every aspect of the beer making process, for example, how different yeast strains affect beer differently. We’re also working on including a hop farm visit to show how hops are grown and harvested.” For more information or to schedule a private or custom tour, contact Stephanie Parker at 949-212-8520 or at EpicureanSanDiego.com.

D

Lauren Mahan is a freelance writer with over 30 years’ experience based in Valley Center, North Park and points south (Baja). She is the Tidbits editor for Edible San Diego and a frequent feature article contributor. November-December 2015

edible San Diego

37

Photo: Dan Parker

Exploring San Diego’s artisanal underbelly


{To Your Health}

Heirloom Seeds: Mutually Accentuating Our Epigenetic Landscape By Christine Dionese

ep·i·ge·net·ics epijə netiks |

|

noun: Biology 1. the study of changes in organisms caused by modification of gene expression rather than alteration of the genetic code itself.

38

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

Photo: Chris Rov Costa


W

is organic? Or that those foods are organic, from non-GMO seeds and open-pollinated heirloom seeds? This very detailed decision defines how we look at healthy food socioculturally. When we clearly define what “healthy food” means we can understand how to protect and promote food security along with our epigenetic wellness.

e are not our genes; rather, a result of their expression. And, it turns out we have quite a bit of control over that expression. It’s what I call the epigenetic landscape. All of the information we allow in from the environment, and that we are unconscious of or have little to no control over, shapes this landscape. Food, water availability, personal relationships, pollution—the significant variables that contour this landscape. This concept is aptly akin to protecting biodiversity by preserving and continuing to research our heirloom seed and plant heritage. Biodiversity is a reliable compass for measuring the overall health of an ecosystem—when we reduce seed biodiversity, we limit the variety and bioavailability of our nutrients.

So what defines healthy food? Is it a variety of vegetables and fruits? Or that your variety

Mutual accentuation in the fields

{ }

In the presence of diversity we can experience wellness in ways we may not be able to with less. The positive expression of our genes that enables us to prevent modern diseases relies on a complex array of nutrients that are lacking not necessarily from individual food crops, but because of monocropping and choosing from a small pool of produce. A person may choose to eat nutrient-dense, organic cucumbers, tomatoes and eggplants from their grocery store, but when only exposed to nutrient forms from those few foods, he/she reduces their ability to adapt to and defend against acute pathogenic influences as well as modern diseases such as autoimmune issues and cancer. The health concerns I see today in private practice are vastly the result of extreme deficits and excesses owed to negative epigenetic influences from lack of quality, biodiverse food. When we provide the necessities for seed and plant survival, they provide for our needs. A variety of foods grown locally over a long period of time, rotated according to the seasons, ideally promote nutrient bioavailability that simply can’t be matched by limited, store-available, not-just-from-thefield commercial processes.

Some scientists might say the idea of heirlooms can get a bit too romantic and a lot less science-driven, but let’s consider the work of Dr. John Novazzio, well

more resilient heirloom varieties from generation to generation.

The positive expression of our genes that enables us to prevent modern diseases relies on a complex array of nutrients that are lacking not necessarily from individual food crops, but because of monocropping and choosing from a small pool of produce.

known agro-ecologist and co-founder of the Organic Seed Alliance. Novazzio has worked to strengthen regional seed systems in North America throughout his career and has actually developed more genetic variance among heirloom seeds. Consumers want produce even when it’s out of season so we end up with tomatoes, apples and bananas that are picked while still green, then doused with synthetic ethylene to produce their more commercially desirable colors at the time of purchase. By the time they make it to you though they’re virtually tasteless. Maybe they were grown from hybrid seeds that are uniform, perhaps they didn’t succumb to blight or wilt in the fields, but delayed ripening technology certainly does not have your pro-epigenetic landscape mapped out. Novazzio’s work doesn’t deny that hybrid seeds may outperform heirlooms at this time, but his efforts along with other heirloom agroecologists are working to continually evolve

In nature, it’s survival of the fittest, yet on the farm, selective agricultural planning decides which plant species stay or go. In the precisely mapped fields there are only so many resources. Unplanned wild plants can encroach on a crop’s nutrients, water sources and even light. Wild plants have their pro-diversity place too though—able to deter certain pests, planned heirloom crops are allowed to thrive without the use of harmful pesticides and herbicides that might otherwise be sprayed. In the absence of this negative epigenetic influence, heirlooms elicit vibrant colors and asymmetrical shapes to adapt to their conditions. Work like Novazzio’s cares for an heirloom’s epigenetic well-being by studying and improving upon their weed competitiveness, disease resistance, cold tolerance, flavor, texture and nutritional value. Certain weeds will barely compete for nutrition with heirlooms, yet rather serve to shield tender heirloom leaves, flowers and fruits from the sun or certain pests and other microbial pathogenic influences that can threaten their viability. There are so many opportunities for communities to embrace a mutually accentuating heirloom culture. As drought continues to threaten California’s breadbasket, continued research into mutually beneficial heirloom and human epigenetic interdependence could lead to a viable source of nutrient-dense, diverse, locally grown foods. While heirlooms aren’t the perfect solution to short-term food shortage issues on a mass scale, their preponderance certainly helps us think about how plant and human life can mutually benefit one another on the epigenetic landscape.

D

Christine Dionese is an integrative health & food therapy specialist, medical and food journalist. She is the cofounder of Garden Eats, a modern organic lifestyle brand promoting community awareness and sustainability. Garden-Eats.com

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

39


{Edible Reads}

Donabe: Japanese Clay Pot Cooking By Kay Ledger Like so many families in San Diego, my own has a strong culinary connection to Asia—my mother-in-law was from Japan. She shopped at the many Japanese specialty stores in Kearny Mesa, served yam tempura at Christmas and prepared her own mochi and gyoza. That’s why I felt a frisson of joy to discover the book “Donabe: Classic and Modern Japanese Clay Pot Cooking”—a Japanese cooking style about which I knew nothing. This cookbook is carefully researched and delicately presented by co-authors Naoko Takei Moore and Chef Kyle Connaughton. Their quiet passion for savory, one-pot cooking is expressed with exceptionally thoughtful text and earthy photographs in greens, blues and browns that evoke cool fall evenings and family. Donabe is the name for the traditional earthen cooking vessels of Japan. Takei Moore says a donabe clay pot “can help make your mushroom soup more savory and your rice taste sweeter.” She says the secret to donabe cooking is the clay, which takes a long time to build heat and to cool down. This builds flavors gradually and results in food that tastes better.

and Oysters in Sake Lees, to Salmon Chowder with Miso Soy-Milk Broth and a Dashi-Rich Shabu-Shabu. Steamer-style recipes offer a beguiling Green Tea Steam Cake and a Savory Crab and Egg Custard, while a tagine-style pot is used for Daikon Steak. Many recipes can be prepared in a heavy pot such as a Le Creuset Dutch oven.

Moore and Connaughton cover six styles of donabe cooking, each using a different style of earthenware pot. Recipes range from basic preparations such as Plain White Rice to the sophisticated Cod

Kay Ledger studied writing at UCSD then earned a culinary degree. She has written for Kiwi Magazine and Edible San Diego.

40

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

D


Sustaining agriculture, one seed at a time By Brijette Romstedt

T

he National Agricultural Library defines sustainable agriculture as “an integrated system of plant and animal production practices having a site-specific application that will, over the long term, satisfy human food needs ‌ make the most efficient use of nonrenewable resources and on-farm resources; and enhance the quality of life for farmers and society as a whole.â€? In this arena, you will hear about organic farming practices, ecological diversity and alternative energy practices. Not too often, unfortunately, do you hear about the important role that local seed production plays in sustainable agriculture. Here are just a few reasons why local organic seed production is a vital part of sustainability:

Biodiversity for crop success Local seed production increases genetic diversity of food crops with traits that are advantageous to local growing conditions. By producing seeds in the very place that they are intended to be grown, the crops adapt to local growing conditions, increasing their viability against local plant diseases and pests, and varying weather conditions and soil structure. For those of us growing in Southern California, this is more important than ever as we face record drought conditions. The seeds that grow in Southern California should be adapted to the dry conditions that we are facing. Unless seed production takes place in Southern California, growers face the possibility of huge crop failures due to the lack of areaspecific varieties of food crops.

Harl, an agriculture economist at Iowa State University, large-scale agricultural companies own approximately 90% of seed genetics. To curb and even reverse the imbalance of genetic ownership, consumers and gardeners should choose organic, local seeds. By purchasing these local seeds, they support small-scale organic seed producers that are consciously choosing to plant, produce and preserve the genetic heritage of food crops. By purchasing from local, organic seed producers they also ensure that rare heirloom varieties continue to produce and are preserved for future generations. These thousands of rare heirloom varieties could have characteristics that would be suitable for future growing conditions. As global warming continues to change our weather patterns, we must work to preserve as many plant varieties as possible for these varying conditions.

Seed saving builds community Local seed production on a large scale is important for commercial farmers, but we must not overlook the huge importance of small-scale seed production. These small operations encourage seed saving and community involvement. By seed saving, individuals and farmers can retain their seeds for future crops, lessening their dependence on large-scale agricultural companies while selecting seeds from food crops that were the most successful in their own region. By doing so, these farmers insure that the next generation of that particular crop is equipped with the genetic traits to handle the local growing conditions.

Save the pollinators It is no secret that the bee population is on the decline. The U.S. national agriculture statistics show bee populations have declined by 60% between 1947 and 2008. One way to help stabilize bee populations and increase their numbers is by creating environments that welcome pollinators. Since seed production depends on pollinators to spread pollen, this process creates a symbiotic relationship between crop production and bee population restoration. As you can see, the benefits of local seed production are numerous and an intrinsic part of sustainability. To produce food sustainably, we must grow plants that are adapted to our specific climate and can survive with the least amount of chemical and energy input. To do that, we must continue to plant and produce seeds in the very place where they are intended to grow.

D

Biodiversity for genetic longevity

Brijette Romstedt is the founder of San Diego Seed Company and has been saving seeds since 2010 to provide our community with honest and sustainable seeds, specializing in heirloom vegetable, herb and companion flowers. SanDiegoSeedCompany.com.

In addition to the need for areaspecific plant varieties, genetic diversity is critical to sustainability. Currently, overall genetic diversity is on the decline. According to Neil

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

41


{Memoir}

Julian Apples : The Fall of an Empire By Patrick Brady

“…and the ripeness of the apple was its downfall”—Mary Oliver

I

was younger then. It was the winter of 2006 when I went to Julian and the apple orchard, which would become Raven Hill. It had snowed and the white blanket lay beneath the skeletal winter bones of the apple trees. A dark clash of ravens arose from the snow, rasping their disapproval at my intrusion, their work scavenging the snow-buried winter apples ended for the day. I had journeyed far to be here and my morning with the ravens was a beginning. I had little knowledge of the task involved in managing 8,000 apple trees. The long distant time spent on my father’s dairy farm in Ireland’s torn Republic had planted somewhere the stain of soil on my soul. I knew enough to realize my failures and was willing to learn of my capabilities for success. To think I could control the outcome, wrestling nature on a wild patch of land, would be madness. To consider I could leave without making my presence felt upon the place was not an option. I was ready, to do or die. I had met the orchard’s owners, Barbara Bray and Mel Anderson, at a 42

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

north coastal San Diego coffee shop some months before. They told me of the orchard’s history with Julian Pie Company and its subsequent deterioration as the result of the apple trade moving to Washington. The Julian apple made itself popular through its natural sweet character. Apple growing conditions at 4,000 feet with prevailing west winds, winter mountain storms and summer sunshine make for perfect fruit. Along with rich soil washed down and sifted through time’s channels, the cold north winter rain followed by summer heat is ideal. Once upon a time there was another understanding of the land and the term “to work with the earth,” when one found love in a warm wind in May or in the smell of fresh earth. Men exhausted themselves in these endeavors, working with earth under endless sky. I discovered humility and patience in my days among the trees: the quiet passing of time outside walls, losing myself in the task of the moment, pruning branches down endless rows of silent trees. The orchard had seven varieties of apples, selected for their season’s fruit-bearing

capabilities. Gala came early along with Gravenstein. Next came the Empires and Jonathans. The Golden Delicious, Fuji and Pippen allowed the season to push into late fall and it was not unusual to see a clinging Golden Delicious in winter’s early snow. The Empire apple is a cross between McIntosh and Red Delicious. Developed at Cornell University, it became one of the most popular apples in the orchard with its crisp, sweet perfection. Its season runs from early September through late October. It ripens to a spectacular candy-apple red. (Few apples from the popular varieties actually make it to the ripened stage due to the demand on the fruit; a ripe apple is the one found on the ground.) The wind comes, in the night or afternoon. In spring, the northwest wind blows relentlessly for days and nights, bringing dark mist across the orchard while the fragile blossoms cling to their life’s promise. It may yet be many weeks before the wild bees are granted reprieve from the cold blast. In October, the Santa Ana winds vent their fury from the east through valleys and across hills, taking heat gestated from summer’s desert furnace to the coast, often with wildfires ablaze.


The difficulty, I soon realized, in discovering the heart of nature at the orchard, was in discarding the life that had led me there. Impatience, frustration, stress, despair, the demons ripe in freeway driving and shopping mall fixations had no place here. I moved into a tipi in the fall that first year. I became aware of the necessity for complete commitment to this undertaking. The word which best describes the tipi is womb, a space near Mother Earth, enclosed; a membrane between the world outside and a circle of calm comfort within. I grew to know the wind’s shift, sunrise, Orion, the night’s mystery and the distant howl of coyotes. I grew light and became available to the day. The Julian apple grows sweet and small, with summer heat above Borrego’s desert and rain a distant mirage. The pie companies were founded in the early ’80s by moms whose knowledge of the kitchen’s secrets proved a sweet advantage: no added sugar, edible gold. Once upon another time when October’s harvest moon rose pale and breathtaking, the sound of falling fruit interrupting the mountain’s silence, apple picking time had arrived. When I opened the gates at Raven Hill to the public for apple

picking, the people, curious, came asking “which apples are best for cooking?” and were surprised when I explained how every apple was already cooked to perfection when picked. The children, however, knew to simply eat them.

our hunger for nature. The soul of soil forgotten, the quest to find belonging and a home. We become blind to the improbability of our being here at all. How strange, to consider the dust form we inhabit, add water and breathe.

In my seven years as Raven Hill manager I never sold an apple to a local pie company, nor to the ubiquitous hard cider company that uses Julian’s name but not its apples. We have evolved; our society is fast growing. Whole food foragers wonder why the apples are so small. We could use chemicals, nature killers, to generate the pretty pictures in market aisles. We could use pesticides to control the charge of the bug brigade, and we do, but we destroy in the process.

My twins were born in June 2012, Ronan and little Rose. Their mother, Amy, a gift, my missing link. I crashed my motorcycle in October, swerving to avoid a wild turkey. I was air-evacuated to the nearby hospital where I spent 10 days in intensive care. In November, when the children were 5 months old, it was time for me to go.

Southern California farming, unlike Ireland’s, has water wars. The pie companies claim there is no water, and yet founded their business on the local harvest bounty, a thousand acres of apple and pear trees giving up their goodness. We love the domesticated and the tame, and yet the hunter-gatherer within each of us must be acknowledged. My time at Raven Hill Orchard revealed so much to me about my needs, the satisfaction in simpler living and about others and

Irish genetics know what it means to leave the land, which left an ache deep at the root. And so this storyteller put his walking boots on… The eldest son of an Irish farmer, Patrick left his father’s farm for New York City. In 1991 Patrick ventured west to San Diego and to poetry and sculpture where his destiny, the land, once again beckoned. Seven years as manager at Raven Hill Orchard in Julian revealed the promise he found in this life, to find his soul’s desire, to realize the dream awakened. Patrick now lives in Taos with his twin boy and girl and their mother, Amy.

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

43


.se n i w n wor g - et atse g ni n niw-drawA

{Local Marketplace}

{Resources & Advertisers} FARM FRESH TO YOU

EVENTS SAN DIEGO COUNTY FARM BUREAU SAN DIEGO

Seedstock Sustainable Agriculture Conference, Tues-Wed, Nov 3-4, at Rady School of Management, UCSD. Info and tickets: http:// seedstockconference.com San Diego Farm & Nursery Expo, Nov 5 at Del Mar Fairgrounds. Info: sdfarmbureau.org/Expo

WoofRamona ’n RoseValley Winery

Specializing in red wines made only from estate grown and Ramona Valley grapes. National and international award winning wine. Tasting veranda open Sat. & Sun. and by appointment. steve@woofnrose.com 760-788-4818 • Woofnrose.com

A true European style market

THE WEDGE ARTISANAL CHEESE FESTIVAL

GOOD NEIGHBOR GARDENS

Cultivates yards in San Diego homes to deliver organic, locally grown, pesticide-free produce through a CSA model. Garden & nutrition coaching available. Fruit Tree Care & Share services offered. • goodneighborgardens@gmail.com • 858-375-6121 • goodneighborgardens.com

Sat, Nov 7 from 1-5pm, artisanal California cheese and craft beer and wine pairings. 22+ cheeses and 15+ craft beers & wines, live music, exhibits, working artists. Tickets $35, $45 after Oct. 30. • 760-5807158 • WedgeEscondido.com • info@WedgeEscondido.com

ESCONDIDO TAMALE FESTIVAL

HILLCREST FARMERS’ MARKET

Sat, Nov 14 from 10:30-4:30 at Grape Day Park, 321 N Broadway. Celebrate Latino Culture, tamales, Baja & San Diego craft beers and wines. 760-580-7158 • EscondidoTamaleFestival.org • info@ EscondidoTamaleFestival.org

Sponsored by the Hillcrest Business Assoc., the largest farmers’market in the county (with over 175 vendors) Sundays, 9-2 at the DMV on Normal St. 3960 Normal Street • 619 299-3330 • hillcrestfarmersmarket.com

FARMS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & PRODUCE DISTRIBUTION SERVICES

Sunday, 9-1 at La Jolla Elementary school on Girard. A great community success story! All proceeds benefit the school. Fresh produce, food court, local artisans and entertainment. 7335 Girard Ave. at Genter. • 858-454-1699 • lajollamarket.com

BE WISE RANCH

Certified organic farm. Nationally known for delicious fruits and vegetables grown year round for wholesale distribution throughout the U.S. and to CSA subscribers at 42 pick up points throughout San Diego County. 760-746-6006 • bewiseranch.com Blue Turtle Productions Farmers’ Markets

LA MESA VILLAGE FARMERS’ MARKET

Friday, 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in La Mesa Village, corner of Spring St. and University • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 • cityoflamesa.com Delivers farm fresh organic or naturally grown fruits, vegetable, herbs and natural products direct from local San Diego farms to your door. info@naturallytoyourdoor.com • 858-946-6882 • naturallytoyourdoor.com

NORTH SAN DIEGO FARMERS’ MARKETS

ENCINITAS STATION FARMERS’ MARKET

A great neighborhood market at the corner of E Street & Vulcan every Wed, 5-8 May-Sept, 4-7 Oct-April. 40+ vendors. Bring your own reusable bags: no single-use plastic bags provided. • 760-651-3630 • encinitas101.com/

ESCONDIDO CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET

LA JOLLA OPEN AIRE MARKET

NATURALLY TO YOUR DOOR

BLUE TURTLE PRODUCTIONS FARMERS’ MARKETS

Mira Mesa (Tue, 2:30-6 fall; 2:30-7 spring); State Street Farmers’ Market in Carlsbad Village (Wed, 3-6 fall; 3-7 spring); Kearny Mesa (Fri, 10:30-1:30), and Leucadia (Paul Ecke Central School) (Sun, 10-2). 858-272-7054 • leucadia101.com

Del Rayo Village Center 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe • 619-743-4263 Sundays, 9:30am –2:00pm ranchosantafefarmersmarket.com

Delivers organic produce to your door from family farms in Capay and Imperial Valley, Calif. Weekly, biweekly, every third or fourth opmaNo C ,4seasonal 9 .ywH 6commitment 5592 .tnemtrequired–cancel nioppa yb ro 5–or 1 .nuS & .taS tsoM week deliveries. 3378-204-916 • 2225-874-916 • moc.sdrayenivkeercopmac suspend deliveries at any time. contactus@farmfreshtoyou.com • 800-796-6009 • farmfreshtoyou.com

Sun 10:30-3:30 at the Sikes Adobe Historic Farmstead. Fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and herbs, eggs, meat, honey, artisan foods, hot food and entertainment. Located just off I-15 at Via Rancho Pkwy, Escondido • northsdfarmers.com

OCEANSIDE CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET

Find eveything you need here, including meat. Sponsored by the Escondido Arts Partnership. Tues 2:30-6pm year round on Grand Ave. between Juniper and Kalmia. • 760-480-4101 • escondidoarts.org

Thur, 9am-1pm, rain or shine at 300 No. Coast Hwy. Certified fresh, locally grown fruits, veggies and flowers, hot food, baked goods and crafts. • outbackfarm@sbcglobal.net • 619-249-9395 • mainstreetoceanside.com

Come t o

ShOp.

Stay for

Lunch !

Sunday Market SundayFarmers Farmers Market Sunday Farmers Market at the Valley Fort Fort at the Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

at the Valley Fort

3757 South Mission Rd. • Fallbrook CA 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 3757 South Mission Road Fallbrook CA 92028

Open Everyevery Sunday 10am to 3pm Open Sunday Open Every Sunday 10am 10 am to 3pmto 3pm vendor info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726

3757 SouthforMission Road Fallbrook CA 92028 more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com Open Sunday 10am to 3pm for Every info email vffarmfresh@gmail.com Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

vendorVendors info: Jeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com or 760-390-9726 contact Amanda Atwood at for more info email: vffarmfresh@gmail.com alove.atwood@att.net or 619-417-8334 FollowJeanniehathaway2011@gmail.com us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market vendor info: or 760-390-9726 Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

Follow us on Facebook: Valley Fort Sunday Farmers Market

44

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


Join us in Fiume thanking these advertisers for their local and sustainable ethic Dominick by supporting them with your business.

{Local Marketplace}

Real Estate Broker

Sun 9:30am–2pm. In the Fairbanks Ranch area. Local farmers,

San Diego, Cafresh 92101 artisanal food, flowers, crafters, live music, kids booth and more! 16079 San Dieguito Rd. Rancho Santa Fe 92067 • 619-743-4263 • RanchoSantaFeFarmersMarket.com

SD COUNTY FARM BUREAU FARMERS’ MARKETS 619-543-9500

Weekly farmers’ markets: Linda Vista, 6900 Linda Vista Rd. (Thur,

CalBRE2-7, No.and01017892 2-6 in winter); City Heights, Wightman St. between

Fairmount & 43rd (Sat, 9-1) and San Marcos, San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz (Sun, 10-2). WIC and EBT Market Bucks accepted. • 760-580-0116 • sdfarmbureau.org

SAN DIEGO MARKETS

Farmers’ markets at Pacific Beach on Bayard btwn Grand & Garnet (Tue, 2-7), North Park (Thu, 3-7), and Little Italy Mercato (Sat, 8-2). All accept EBT, PB and NP also accept WIC. Farmers market vendor training. • 619-233-3901 • sandiegomarkets.com

SANTEE CERTIFIED FARMERS’ MARKET

Wed 3-7 (summer), 3-6 winter, at the Pathways Center, corner of Carlton Hills Blvd and Mast Blvd. WIC, EBT and credit cards accepted. • 619-449-8427 • santeefarmersmarket.com

SPECIALTY PRODUCE

Fresh organic and sustainably grown produce, much of it local. Great iPhone and Android app with 1200+ produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

STATE ST. FARMERS’ MARKET AT CARLSBAD VILLAGE

Conveneint midweek market, Wed 3-6pm fall/winter, 3-7pm spring/summer. Over 50 vendors in Carlsbad Village east of the railroad tracks. • ronlachance@gsws.com • 858-272-7054 • statestreetmarket.com

SUNDAY FARMERS’ MARKET AT THE VALLEY FORT

Sun from 10am to 3pm at the Valley Fort, 3757 S. Mission Road, Fallbrook. Great atmosphere, vendors and music. • vffarmfresh@ gmail.com • 760-390-9726 • thevalleyfort.com

RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING A.R. VALENTIEN

Experience the art of fine dining in an elegant timbered room overlooking the 18th hole of the Torrey Pines Golf Course. Market driven and seasonal cuisine. Reserve a seat at the Artisan Table,

262 E. Grand Ave, Escondido

Thursday nights. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Rd. • 858-453-4420 • lodgetorreypines.com

escondidofarmersmarket@yahoo.com

BLIND LADY ALE HOUSE

A certified purveyor of honest pints. Local & craft brews, Neapolitan style pizza with fresh mozzarella, local veggies and charcuterie housemade from sustainably produced meat. Open Tues -Sun, 11:30am to midnite. 3416 Adams Avenue, San Diego • 619-255-2491 • blindladyalehouse.com

BURGER LOUNGE

Great tasting hamburgers made from sustainably raised, grassfed beef and other pastured meats. Perfect for health and environmentally conscious diners, vegetarians and salad lovers. Eight locations in San Diego County: • burgerlounge.com

CAFÉ MERLOT

Dine from the bounty of their micro farm in the relaxed and beautiful setting of the Rancho Bernardo Winery. They plant, grow and cook every meal to order. Cooking classes, specialty events, culinary medicine! 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Rancho Bernardo, 92128 • 858-592-7785 • cafemerlot.com

Tuesday 2:30 - 6 Operated by the Escondido Arts Partnership

FLYING PIG PUB & KITCHEN

Rustic American cuisine made with quality, local ingredients and commitment to community, environment and culinary creativity. Local craft beers on tap. 626 South Tremont St., Oceanside, 92054, • 760-453-2940; 230 South Santa Fe Ave, Vista • 760-453-2940 • flyingpigpubkitchen.com

…be human fully alive!

Seed Salt

Seeds. Superfoods. Salt.

GIRARD GOURMET

La Jolla’s premier deli, bakery, restaurant & caterer for 25 years. Tasty and healthy menu items created with fresh and seasonal ingredients. Francois and Diana grow many of their fruits and vegetables in their own organic garden in Julian. 7837 Girard Avenue, La Jolla, CA 92037 • 858-454-3325 • girardgourmet.com

HARNEY SUSHI

Perennial “best sushi” pick of many, Harney also has the most aggressive sustainability program of all Southern California restaurants. Original Old Town location: 3964 Harney Street, San Diego • 619-295-3272; Oceanside: 301 Mission Avenue • 760-9671820 • harneysushi.com

TRY W OUR NE et®

e Seed Sw V���� ��� ������� �� �������� ������ � ���� ��� ������� ������� ������ � ����� ��������� be-Runa.com 619-929-8075

LA COCINA QUE CANTA AT RANCHO LA PUERTA

Celebrate Baja cuisine and wines August 15 and November 21 at farm-to-table wine dinners at La Cocina Que Canta, Rancho La Puerta’s culinary center in the heart of a six-acre organic garden. • events@lacocinaquecanta.net • lacocinaquecantaevents.com

Award-winning estate-grown wines.

VA

T

330 ARANCHO Street,SANTA Ste 4FE FARMERS’ MARKET

TH

ll Fa

E

W AT E R C O N

SE

R

IO

N

GA

RDEN’S

2015

Saturday, Nov. 7: 10:00am – 2:00pm Special Members Only Preview Sale 9:00am – 10:00am

Most Sat. & Sun. 1–5 or by appointment. 29556 Hwy. 94, Campo campocreekvineyards.com 619-478-5222 • 619-402-8733

The Garden’s Fall Plantstravaganza returns with plant sales, gardening workshops and water-saving advice from the experts.

November-December 2015

619-660-0614 x10 www.thegarden.org

edible San Diego

45


{Local Marketplace}

emuiF kcinimoD MITCH’S SEAFOOD

Casual waterfront dining in the historic fishing neighborhood of Point Loma, serving up locally caught seafood with a view of the bay and the San Diego sportfishing fleet. 1403 Scott Street, San Diego • 619-222-8787 • mitchsseafood.com

OCEANA COASTAL KITCHEN

An intimate supper club in San Diego’s historic Mission Hills. Organic produce is sourced from their own ½-acre garden. Live 98710San 10Diego .oN E• RBlaC music Wed & Thurs, 7-9pm. 729 W. Washington2Street, 619-295-6001• thewellingtonsd.com

PACIFIC TIME

ARTISANAL FOOD & DRINK

PANAMA 66

Panama 66 is in the Sculpture Court at the San Diego Museum of Art in Balboa Park. Beer, wine and cocktails, salads, hot and cold sandwiches, house-made meats, vegetarian and vegan, brunch, kids menu, desserts and more. Open Mon – Sun, 11 to 3. panama66.com

26 years in La Jolla European Bakery & Deli Breakfast, lunch & dinner Full-service catering

girardgourmet.com 7837 Girard Avenue La Jolla, CA 92037 858-454-3325

YOUR FIRST STOP ON

RAMONA'S WINE

TRAIL

SPECIALTY CHEESES GOURMET SALADS AND SANDWICHES

RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS 642 MAIN STREET RAMONA, CA 92065 PICNIC BOXES FOR YOUR 760-787-5987 WINE TASTING ADVENTURE 46

edible San Diego

November-December 2015

THE WELLINGTON STEAK AND MARTINI LOUNGE

Chef Steven Riemer (formerly Exec. Sous Chef at A.R. Valentien) interprets classic dishes highlighting the purity and flavors of local produce, served in a beautiful bayside setting at the Catamaran Resort. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday Brunch. 3999 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109 • catamaranresort.com Specialty market and bread bakery with morning and lunch menus and locally sourced veggies, spreads, meats, cheeses, wines and beer on tap. Open Mon-Fri, 7am-3pm. 5277 Linda Vista Rd. (Morena area) 92111 • 619-260-8446 • pacifictimesd.com

From our garden to your plate.

THE ROSE WINE BAR & BOTTLE SHOP rekorB etatsE laeR

Well paired food and drink emphasizing small, sometimes zany producers and with special attention to San Diego 4 etterroir. S ,teLunch, ertS A 033 brunch, happy hour and 4 course Monday night dinner every third 10Park 12992104 aC •,o619geiD naS Monday of the month. 2219 30th St., South 281-0718 • therosewinebar.com

0059-345-916

BE RUNA SEED SALT & SEED SWEET

Handcrafted small batch blends of nine different organic seeds, superfoods, mineral salts and spices. Available at La Mesa (Fri), Little italy Mercato (Sat), Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo (Sun) and Hillcrest and Hillcrest and Leucadia (altermating Sun) farmers’ markets. Contact: tamara@be-runa.com • be-runa.com/product/seed-salt

CURDS AND WINE

RITUAL KITCHEN & BEER GARDEN

Home winemaking and cheese-making supplies and instruction. Large selection of wine kits. Make wine at the shop! Cheesemaking cultures and equipment available and cheese-making demonstrations. 7194 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., San Diego • 858-384-6566 • curdsandwine.com

SOLARE RISTORANTE & LOUNGE

EscoGelato’s luscious, super creamy gelato is full of intense flavor and made fresh daily with the highest quality ingredients including fruit sourced from local farmers at the Escondido Farmers Market. 122 South Kalmia, Escondido, 92025 • 760-745-6500 • escogelato.com

Humanely raised Niman meat, Jidori chicken, sustainable seafood, and locally grown organic vegetables in simple, delicious dishes. Great wine and craft beer menu. Many vegetables and herbs grown in the patio seating area. 4095 30th Street, San Diego • 619-283-1720 • ritualtavern.com Award winning Italian cuisine by Chef Accursio Lota. Locally sourced organic produce, fresh pasta, wild-caught fish and hormone-free meat. Great wine list, craft cocktails and beers. Happy hour Tues-Sun, Tues wine specials, Live jazz Thurs. 2820 Roosevelt Rd., Liberty Station, Point Loma • 619-270-9670 • solarelounge.com

STARLITE

Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. Cuisine that uses year-round local produce. Menu changes frequently to offer San Diego’s seasonal bounty. Sunday brunch. Great cocktails. 21 and up. 3175 India Street, San Diego • 619-358-9766 • starlitesandiego.com

THE RED DOOR RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

A casually elegant neighborhood hangout serving classic American comfort food. Organic produce from their own ½-acre garden or purchased locally. Sustainably sourced proteins. 741 W. Washington Street, San Diego • 619-295-6000 • thereddoorsd.com

ESCOGELATO

JUICE WAVE SAN DIEGO

Fresh juices, smoothies, shots and Acai bowls served from a food truck modified to run on propane and a NEW STORE at 3733 Mission Blvd. San Diego 92109. Ingredients sourced from farmers’ markets, and all waste is recycled. • 240-246-5126 • juicewavesd.com

YOGI TEA

Brew, sip and share to love. Yogi Tea is dedicated to sourcing the highest quality ingredients from around the globe so that every delicious cup is rich with flavor and healthful purpose. • yogiproducts.com

CLOTHING CUT LOOSE SOLANA BEACH

Known for their fabrics, colors and flattering fit. Extensive line of casual clothing that’s sewn and dyed to order in San Francisco. Each Cut Loose boutique customizes its collection. 142 S. Cedros, Solana Beach 92075 • 858-509-0386 • cutloose.com

GARDEN, LANDSCAPING, FARM & RANCH RESOURCES ALPINE GARDEN & GIFTS

Plants, soil amendments & unique items from local artistis & crafters. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 9-5, and Sunday, 10-4. 2442 Alpine Blvd (next to Janet’s). • 619-452-3535 • alpinegardenandgifts.com

BARRELS & BRANCHES

“One of San Diego’s top ten nurseries” – San Diego Home/Garden Magazine. A hidden sanctuary, part botanical garden, part retail space. A unique location for your meeting or event. Open 8-5 every day. 1452 Santa Fe Dr. Encinitas • 760-753-2852 • barrelsandbranches.com

BARN OWL BOXES

Installing owl nest boxes in and around your farm, vineyard, garden or homestead is an extremely effective form of pest control and helps restore balance to the environment. 346 Oak Street, Ramona • 760-445-2023 • BarnOwlBoxes.com


Dominick Fiume EN CONCORDIA Real Estate Broker

{Local Marketplace}

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Fine products for the urban gardener. Handcrafted garden tools, small

preservesSte and organic 330 Abatch Street, 4 bath & beauty products, waterwise

BOTANICALS BY THE SEA

Body oils and scrubs, essential oils & aromatherapy, soaps & bath balms, face trios & more. Online and two retail locations: 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte, Suite O, at Rancho Bernardo Winery; 2956 Roosevelt Street, Carlsbad. • 760-805-3904 • botanicalsbythesea.com

succulents and plants for pollinators, nonGMO seeds, all natural soils, exceptionalCa books92101 and full-leaf teas. Tue-Sun, 10-5, closed Mondays. San Diego, 1021 Rosecrans, Point Loma 92106 • 619-677-2866 • enconcordia.com

GOOD NEIGHBOR GARDENS

See FARMS, FARMERS’ MARKETS & PRODUCE DISTRIBUTION 619-543-9500 SERVICES above.

UBUNTU HAIR STUDIO

An eco-friendly and socially conscious salon that strives to make social and environmental change through the small things that they do. Hours: Mon - Sat from 10am - 6pm. 109 S Acacia Ave, Solana Beach • 858-792-5959 • ubuntuhairstudio.com

CalBRE No. 01017892 GREEN THUMB SUPER GARDEN CENTER

Coupon on page 20. Organic and natural products for your edible garden, as well as trees, shrubs, flowers, succulents and everything you need for their care. Home canning supplies. 1019 San Marcos Blvd. off the 79 fwy near Via Vera Cruz • 760-744-3822 • supergarden.com

匀䔀䤀娀䔀 吀䠀䔀

倀刀䔀匀䔀一吀 䰀䄀 䨀伀䰀䰀䄀 伀倀䔀一 䄀䤀刀䔀 䴀䄀刀䬀䔀吀

䔀 嘀 䔀 刀 夀   匀 唀 一 䐀 䄀夀

䌀 伀 刀 一 䔀 刀   伀 䘀   䜀 䤀 刀 䄀 刀 䐀   䄀嘀 䔀 ⸀   ☀   䜀 䔀 一 吀 䔀 刀   匀 吀⸀

㤀䄀䴀ⴀ㄀倀䴀 䰀 䄀 䨀 伀 䰀 䰀 䄀 䴀 䄀 刀 䬀 䔀 吀⸀ 䌀 伀 䴀

MEAT COOK FAMILY PIGS BUTCHER SHOP

HUMMINGBIRD MARKET

Farm direct, premium antibiotic, cage and hormone free heritage pork. Whole hogs, primal cuts, and individual cuts, wholesale and retail. Kearny Mesa, Thur 10am-6pm, Sat,9am-2pm, 8280 Clairemont Mesa Blvd. #117; Julian Station, Fri, Sat, Sun 12-6pm, 4470 Julian Rd. • 619-378-4432 • cookpigs.com

NORTH PARK NURSERY

Sustainably raised USDA inspected beef, pork and lamb sides & cuts, chicken, turkey, duck, rabbit, quail, pheasant & bison. Free range eggs. No hormones, steroids, antibiotics, GMO/soy. Find at SD, Riverside and Orange Co. farmers’markets, at farm by appointment and CSA. Farm tours/ internships available. • da-le-ranch.com • dave@da-le-ranch.com

Attract and feed hummingbirds with nectar formulated to most closely replicate flower nectar without dyes or preservatives. Choose from a selection of functional, proven feeders. Website is a trove of great information about Hummingbirds. • 520-638-6492 • hummingbirdmarket.com

DA-LE RANCH

Count on sustainability, community and quality at this locally owned and operated nursery and garden center providing California grown plants, garden supplies, perennials, annuals, seeds, soil, gifts, and more since 2006. • (619) 795-1855 • northparknursery.com

SAN PASQUAL VALLEY SOILS

THE HEART AND TROTTER

Topsoil (specially blended for growing in San Diego), compost and mulch, ready to use or custom blended to your specifications. 16111 Old Milky Way, San Diego 92027 • 6760-644-3404 (sales); 760-7464769 (billing & dispatch)• spvsoils.com

Southern California’s only whole animal butchery (nothing goes to waste) featuring sustainably raised, hormone and anitbiotic free beef, lamb, pork and chicken. Open Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm; Sun,11am-5pm. 2855 El Cajon Blvd. Suite 1, San Diego 92104 • 619-564-8976 • theheartandtrotter.com

URBAN PLANTATIONS

Design, installation and maintenance of edible landscapes for home owners, restaurants and corporate settings. Complete orchard care, composting systems, and detailed organic garden care. They’ll create the garden of your dreams! karen@UrbanPlantations.com • (619) 563-5771 • urbanplantations.com

ORGANIZATIONS FEEDING AMERICA SAN DIEGO

Serving 73,000 children, families and seniors a week, leading the fight against hunger by distributing fresh, nutritious food to those in need. Help build a hunger-free, healthy community by making a gift. 97% of your donation directly funds hunger relief programs in San Diego County. • (858) 452-3663 • feedingamericasd.org

WATER CONSERVATION GARDEN

Five acres of displays showcasing water conservation through beautiful themed gardens. How-to displays about mulch, irrigation, compost and more. Free admission. Open daily, 9am4pm, 12122 Cuyamaca College Dr. West, El Cajon, CA 92019 • (619) 660-0614 • thegarden.org

SAN DIEGO COUNTY FARM BUREAU

Leading advocate for the farm community. Promotes economic viability of agriculture balanced with good stewardship of natural resources. Membership open to all, helps your local farmers and has many benefits. • 760-745-3023 • sdfarmsbureau.org

WILD WILLOW FARM & EDUCATION CENTER

Educating the next generation of farmers, gardeners and homesteaders. Learn about sustainable farming, permaculture and how to live sustainably. Visit their blog; theartofagriculture.org • wildwillowfarm@ sandiegoroots.org • sandiegoroots.org/farm

San Diego’s first juice & smoothie truck providing fresh, natural, organic & local beverages Visit us at our new store at 3733 Mission Blvd. Mon.-Fri. 7am-5pm • Sat.-Sun. 8am-5pm VEGAN, PALEO, VEGETARIAN GLUTEN- & DAIRY-FREE

240.246.5126 | www.JuiceWaveSD.com Juicewavesd #JuiceWavesd #Sippinonzenandjuice

l di

Bui

Join our CSA!

na

t

im e

JIMBO’S...NATURALLY

A local family-owned full-service grocery that provides the highest quality organic and natural foods at reasonable prices. Jumbo’s is committed to supporting organic growing practices and local farmers. Five locations: Horton Plaza, 4S Ranch, Escondido, Carlsbad and Carmel Valley. • jimbos.com

farm, one garde

at

ng

GROCERY

ity ac

We plant organic seeds Install and maintain backyard gardens Harvest and deliver produce to your door

RAMONA FAMILY NATURALS

Family owned and operated natural food market with local, organic produce, raw milk, grass-fed meats, vitamins, supplements, specialty foods and more. Open Monday-Friday, 8-8, Saturday, 8-6 and Sunday, 10-6. 642 Main St. Ramona • 760-787-5987 • ramonafamilynaturals.com

goodneighborgardens.com 858-375-6121

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

47


{Local Marketplace} SLOW FOOD

Supporting good food in San Diego and Riverside counties since 2001. Join the growing national movement to reclaim and preserve good food and food traditions. Slow Food Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley Slow Food. • slowfoodurbansandiego.org • temeculavalleyslowfood.org

PET CARE

SEAFOOD CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS

Bustling wholesale and retail seafood market in a working warehouse with fresh sustainably harvested seafood, much of it from local waters. Fri and Sat cooking demos. M-F, 8-3; Sat, 8-2. 5202 Lovelock St., San Diego • 619-297-9797 • catalinaop.com

WINE & SPIRITS

DEXTER’S DELI

Suppliers of all natural diet and supplements for dogs and cats, including fresh raw foods and selected natural dry and canned foods. Human-grade and chemical free. Two locations, 2508 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760-720-7507; and 1229 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar • 858-792-3707 • dextersdeli.com

REAL ESTATE, CONTRACTING, HOMES MIKE MAHAN, GENERAL CONTRACTOR

Indoor and outdoor kitchen design and construction since 1980. License #395296.. • 760-749-1505 • mmahan.com

URBAN DWELLINGS REAL ESTATE

Dominick Fiume, Real Estate Broker, provides exceptional customer service with specialized knowledge of urban San Diego. CalBRE No. 01017892 909 W. University Ave. San Diego, 92103. • 619-543-9500

RESTAURANT SUPPLIES SPECIALTY PRODUCE

Freshly picked, organic and sustainably sourced produce, much of it local, from over a dozen farms each week. Great app for iPhone and Android with easy-to-use database of over 1200 produce items. Wholesale and retail. Farmers’ Market Bag & Box options. 1929 Hancock Street #150, San Diego • 619-295-3172 • specialtyproduce.com

BARREL 1 WINERY

Artisanal from vine to bottle, each wine made exclusively from naturally grown estate grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Muscat, Tempranillo and Tempranillo Rose. 1007 Magnolia Ave. Ramona. Open Sat & Sun, 11-6. Wine Club • 858-204-3144 • barrel1.com

CAMPO CREEK VINEYARDS

KOI ZEN CELLARS

Taste wine, purchase wine by the glass, bottle, case & barrel, become a virtual vintner, winemaker or master blender, host meetings and meetups, art shows, fundraisers and take classes. 12225 World Trade Dr., Suite P, San Diego 92128. Open Wed & Thur, 2-8pm: Fri, 2-9; Sat, 12-9; Sun, 12-6. Open Mon & Tue for private events only.

STEHLEON VINEYARDS

From the grapes to the winemaker, Stehleon Vineyards is San Diego grown. Stehleon wines blend four generations of agricultural heritage with local product and talent. • 760-741-1246 • StehleonVineyards.com

THE ROSE WINE BAR AND BOTTLE SHOP

See RESTAURANTS, FOODIE DESTINATIONS & CATERING

VESPER VINEYARDS

Family owned and operated vineyard since 2003, making estate wines since 2012. Specializing in Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Viognier. Tasting room open Sat & Sun, 1-5. Schedule a tour: ard50@hotmail.com. 29556 Hwy 94, Campo, CA 91906 • 619-478-5222 • campocreekvineyards.com

Vesper Vineyards aims to expose wine drinkers to San Diego’s diverse microclimates. They support local grapes, wine and all local agriculture and cuisine. Tasting room & winery. 298 Enterprise St., Suite D, Escondido • 760-749-1300 • vespervineyards.com

CHUPAROSA VINEYARDS

100% estate grown Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Picnic on the patio overlooking the vines or warm up by the fireplace this winter in the tasting room! Open Sat & Sun 11-5pm. 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, 92065 • 760-788-0059 • chuparosavineyards.com

Features award winning red wines made from 100% Ramona Valley American Vitacultural Area (AVA) grapes, mostly estate grown. Try their flagship wine, Estate Cabernet Franc. open by appointment most days, Call ahead to allow them to give you good directions and to confirm availability. • 760-788-4818 • woofnrose.com

EDWARDS VINEYARD & CELLARS

MEDIA

Full bodied red wines served from a small, family-run outdoor tasting patio overlooking the vineyard. Estate grown syrah, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon and blends showcase the quality of the RVAVA. 26502 Hwy 78, Ramona • 760-788-6800• edwardswinery.com

WOOF’N ROSE WINERY

JEWELS FROM MY GROVE. PERSIMMONS, KUMQUATS & BLOOD ORANGES

This cookbook is by author and La Vigne Organics grove owner Helene Beck. Citrus-centric recipes from easy to challenging, sweet to savory, with beautiful photos of the grove, the fruit and the dishes. La Vigne CCOF certified orchard. PO Box 2890, Fallbrook, 92088 • 760-723-9997 • lavignefruits.com

Advertising in

aids in our mission to support sustainable agriculture and local food systems. Join us and watch your business

grow!

For more information, please contact Riley Davenport, publisher. 619-222-8267 • riley@ediblesandiego.com

I subscribe to a free magazine because I support local business & local food, want to read it & not search for it & never want to miss an issue.

Subscribe online at ediblesandiego.com 48

edible San Diego

November-December 2015


FARMERS’ MARKETS MONDAY Escondido—Welk Resort # 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7 pm, year round 760-651-3630

Seeds @ City Urban Farm

16th & C Sts., SD City College 10:30–12:30 am (Sept to June) cityfarm@sdccd.edu

TUESDAY Coronado

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6 pm 760-741-3763

Escondido *

Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 2:30–6 pm year round 760-480-4101

Mira Mesa *

State Street in Carlsbad Village

State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 3–7 pm (3–6 fall-winter) 858-272-7054

Temecula – Promenade *

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

THURSDAY Carmel Valley

5951 Village Center Loop Rd. 2:30–7 pm 858-945-5560

Chula Vista

Center St. off Third Ave. 3–7 pm (3–6 pm fall-winter) 619-422-1982

El Cajon #

10510 Reagan Rd. 2:30–7 pm (3–6 pm fall-winter ) 858-272-7054

Prescott Promenade on East Main Btw Magnolia & Claydelle Aves. 3–7 pm, year round 619-641-7510 x-277

Otay Ranch–Chula Vista

Horton Square San Diego

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd. 4–8 pm (4–7 pm winter) 619-279-0032

Pacific Beach Tuesday *# Bayard & Garnet 2–7 pm 619-233-3901

UCSD Town Square

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10 am–2 pm (Sept to June) 858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY Encinitas Station

Corner of E St. & Vulcan 5–8 pm, May-Sept 4–7 pm, Oct-Apr 760-651-3630

Ocean Beach

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

People’s Produce Night Market 1655 Euclid Ave. 5-8 pm 619-262-2022

Santee *#

Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd. 3–7 pm (winter 3–6 pm) 619-449-8427

225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am–3 pm, March thru October 760-741-3763

Linda Vista *#

6900 Linda Vista Rd. 2–7 pm (2–6 winter hours) 760-580-0116

North Park *#

3151 University & 32nd St. 3–7 pm year round 619-233-3901

Oceanside Morning *

Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am–1 pm 619-249-9395

SDSU

Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am–3 pm (Sept to June) www.clube3.org

UTC #

7131 Regents Rd. 4–7 pm 619-795-3363

Borrego Springs

Pacific Beach

Point Loma #

Fallbrook Village Assn.

Poway *

Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village

Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am–noon (October–May) 760-767-5555 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 11 am–2 pm 760-73-8384

Imperial Beach *#

16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30 am–2 pm 619-743-4263

Ramona *

San Marcos *#

Kearny Mesa

Scripps Ranch

Solana Beach

La Mesa Village *

Temecula – Old Town *

Rancho Bernardo Winery

Vista *#

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

City Heights *!#

Gaslamp San Diego

North Island Credit Union pkg lot 5898 Copley 10:30 am–1:30 pm 858-272-7054 Corner of Spring St. & University 2–6 pm 619-249-9395 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am–1 pm 760-500-1709

On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am–1 pm 760-580-0116

Clairemont at Madison High School 4833 Dolivia Dr. 9 am–3 pm 888-666-0799

Del Mar

1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4 pm 858-465-0013

Escondido Saturday

Maple St. btw 2nd Ave & Valley Pkwy. 10 am–2 pm 760-715-3363, 619-838-8020

FRIDAY

B St. btw 27th & 28th Sts. 9:30 am–1:30 pm 619-795-3363

Allied Gardens

Little Italy Mercato #

Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8 am–1 pm 619-249-9395

Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am–2:30 pm 619-795-3363

Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza Oct-Mar, 12– 7 pm; AprSep, 12–7:30 pm • info@ imperialbeachfarmersmarket.org

Golden Hill #

5185 Waring Rd. btw Orcutt & Zion 4–8 pm 619-279-0032

4150 Mission Blvd. 8 am–noon 760-741-3763

W. Cedar St. (Kettner to Front St.) 8 am–2 pm 619-233-3901

1855 Main St. (K-Mart pkg lot) 9 am–1 pm 760-788-1924 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am–1 pm 858-586-7933 Sixth & Front St. Old Town 8 am–12:30 pm 760-728-7343

325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am–1 pm 760-945-7425

400 block of Third Ave. 9 am–1 pm 619-279-0032

Hillcrest *

3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am–2 pm 619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter 9 am–1 pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia *

San Marcos Blvd. & Via Vera Cruz 11 am–3 pm 760-580-0116 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1–5 pm 858-755-0444 Valley Fort Sunday 3757 South Mission Rd., Fallbrook 10 am–3 pm 760-728-3205 * Market vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # Market vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! C urrently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks. All San Diego County markets listed except Rincon, SDSU, Seeds @ City and Valley Fort Sunday are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Visit ediblesandiego.com and click on "Local Food” for more complete information and links to farmers’ market websites and social media pages.

185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am–2 pm 858-272-7054

Murrieta *

Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks/ Kalmia 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

North San Diego #

12655 Sunset Dr. Escondido 10:30 am–3:30 pm year round 858-735-5311

November-December 2015

edible San Diego

49


There’s living. And there’s loving life. We’re here to help with the second one. Our intriguing blends of herbs and botanicals support energy, stamina, focus, and overall

®,©2015-2016 East West Tea Company, LLC

well-being. Cup after cup, day after day, life is good.

®

ESD 32 Nov/Dec 2015  
ESD 32 Nov/Dec 2015  

Holiday Traditions

Advertisement