Edible San Diego Salty Summer 2022 Issue 66

NO. 66 SUMMER 2022

EAT • DRINK • READ • GROW

LIMITED EDITION

edible

SAN DIEGO

SALTY FRUITS OF SUMMER • OYSTER FARMING • SUSTAINABLE WATERWAYS SERVING SAN DIEGO COUNTY | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES | EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM

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Breathtaking Views, Uniquely California Cuisine For Every Occasion

ARValentien.com | (858) 777-6635

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Summer 22

CONTENTS Issue 66

I N TH IS ISSU E D EPA RTMEN TS 4

Publisher’s Note

LI VI NG LOC AL 6 8

10 14 16

Hot Dish: Local Catch Market Explorer: A New Way to Shop + Low-Waste Shops in San Diego In Season: The Fruits of Summer Attractions & Events Local Markets Guide

EATI N G WE L L 20 From Sea Forest to Table

GR OWI N G GOOD 27 Aw, Shucks: Carlsbad Aquafarm's Oysters 32 EDIBLE FOR KIDS

TAKEA WAY 46 Local Catch Guide

FEATU R ES 36

Sustainable Waterways

San Diego’s fisheries and farmers are leading global innovation to continue producing food in a changing climate

45

What a Centenarian Eats A Q&A to celebrate Deborah Szekely’s 100th birthday

WHAT TO LOOK FOR ON EDIBLESANDIEGO.COM • New Plant-Based Summer Recipes

LI STEN Living Local Podcast

• • • • •

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Kimchi-Spiced Cucumbers Watermelon Limeade Summer CSA Potato Salad Sweet & Savory Honeydew Melon Salad Sticky Pineapple Pork Ribs

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DAV E R U D I E

W ATCH ON YOU T U BE

O N THE COV E R The garibaldi is the California state marine fish. Protected from fishing, its gilded presence is an expression of healthy kelp forests integral to local ecosystems that offer humans many other good things to eat.

T H IS IMAG E Kelp bass (aka calico bass), barred sand bass, urchins, and other marine life in the wild.

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Publisher’s Note |

Salty Living Let’s play word association.

When I say San Diego, what do you see?

I bet it’s a beach.

Our region’s coastline, ocean, and fresh waterways make it uniquely appealing, something true for many thousands of years and never more so than today.

Welcome to Salty, our 66th issue of Edible San Diego magazine.

In our spring special edition, we considered the land we rely on for food (and so much more), through the lenses of systems thinking, regenerative agriculture, and Indigenous knowledge to consider how global changes in our biosphere involve us.

With this issue, we turn our attention to the ocean and local waterways. It’s as if the ocean calls us to protect it as well as to enjoy and benefit from it.

Truly calling San Diego County home means deepening our understanding of our ocean, its marvelous inhabitants, and local people who can help us be better ocean stewards.

New this issue is a print-only section on summer cooking and gardening with kids. It’s never too early or too late to get your hands in the dirt and experience the wonder of sharing produce you grew yourself.

So without further ado, it’s time to jump into a collection of salty stories, summery recipes, and essential insights we have gathered for you here and on ediblesandiego.com.

Happy Summer.

Katie Stokes Publisher and Editor in Chief, Edible San Diego

MARIA HESSE

PS: Have you subscribed to Edible San Diego Weekly (our digital member blog), our free newsletters, or our quarterly magazine yet? No? Head over to the subscriptions page on our website, and take your pick.

Thanks!

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Woof ‘n Rose Winery

edible SAN DIEGO EDITORIAL

PUBLISHER

Katie Stokes Editor in Chief

Katie Stokes

Maria Hesse Executive Editor

OPERATIONS

Dawn Mobley Copy Editor

DESIGN Cheryl Angelina Koehler Designer

Kshitija Parkhe

ADVERTISING Katie Stokes katie@ediblesandiego.com Simon Weinberg simon@ediblesandiego.com

Bring in this ad to receive COVER PHOTO BY DAVE RUDIE For information about options, rates, and deadlines please contact info@ediblesandiego.com or call 601-526-1919.

No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2022 All rights reserved.

Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions. If an error comes to your attention, please let us know and accept our sincere apologies.

Thank you for supporting your local food media company.

Two Tastings for the Price of One Enjoy our national and international, award-winning wines on our sheltered, outdoor veranda, overlooking our vineyards and the Ramona Valley, while surrounded by almost 180 degrees of mountain views!

woofnrose.com ~ 760.788.4818

CONTACT Edible San Diego 1501 San Elijo Rd. South #104-210 San Marcos, CA 92078 601-526-1919 info@ediblesandiego.com ediblesandiego.com 2017 Updated

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Giving Sips DONATING $1 PER DRINK SOLD Fish Market has proudly raised over $78K for local charities including: Shelter to Soldier, CORE: Children of Restaurant Employees, Helen Woodward Animal Center, Big Brothers Big Sisters, Surfrider Foundation, Peninsula Humane Society & SPCA & more!

This magazine is made possible thanks to Edible San Diego advertisers, members, and subscribers.

Thank you for supporting San Diego’s local, independently owned food media company.

Join today at ediblesandiego.com.

Visit us at thefishmarket.com Seafood is our passion, freshness is our mission, and giving back is our commitment.

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Living Local |

Hot Dish

Local Catch Seafood consumed in the United States travels, on average, over 5,000 food miles to get to our plate, but these three San Diego County restaurants are turning the tide by sourcing fresh catch from nearby waters

BY MICHELLE STANSBURY

nontargeted species (also called bycatch) to a rotating WILDCOAST Fresh Catch menu item, there are several delicious ways to support the organization. A portion of proceeds from events and feature dishes will benefit the nonprofit. The Fresh Catch dish will vary depending on what is available from local fisheries, but expect options comparable to a pan-seared sheepshead filet with Meyer lemon butter sauce, leek oil, white asparagus, and uni. This summer they are procuring sheepshead from San Diego fisherman Johnny Glawson, who catches the fish about an hour from the coast.

At Draft in Mission Beach, you can nosh on Mexican rockfish from nearby Baja, prepared in a casual yet thoughtful cervezabattered fish and chips. Too often at restaurants with postcardVerbena Kitchen seasons and sears grade-one perfect views of the Pacific, tuna, also known as sashimi-grade. frozen Atlantic fish is served.

Rockfish is sourced from several local fishmongers, beer-battered and fried, and served with spicy A local wholesaler helps San Diego restaurants by breaking coleslaw, malt vinegar tartar sauce, grilled lemon, and gremolata down fresh catch so chefs don’t have to choose between buying fries. A sweet and nutty groundfish, rockfish doesn’t have name packaged commercial seafood and running an efficient, smallrecognition like salmon, but its mild, versatile flavor and tender space kitchen. Family-owned Chula Seafood is run by Jim Heflin texture make it a popular choice. Rockfish populations saw a and his wife Susie; they sell to about 30 restaurants in San Diego, dramatic decline during the 1990s, but sustainable management including Verbena Kitchen. The grade-one tuna they source and from the Pacific Fishery Management Council has been able to prepare for Verbena begins its journey 200 miles off the coast restore abundant and thriving numbers. before it gets to chef Ronnie Schwandt. It takes a boat, like one Another organization helping to conserve coastal and marine ecosystems is WILDCOAST, a nonprofit based in Del Mar and Ensenada. In addition to preventing overfishing, WILDCOAST establishes marine protected areas in California and Mexico, looks out for endangered species like leatherback sea turtles, and fights climate change.

Up the coast in Encinitas, Herb & Sea recently announced a long-term partnership with WILDCOAST to help further their mission to protect the ocean and its marine life. From special five-course Treasure Fish Feast collaboration dinners featuring 6

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from Haworth Fish, almost a week to get out to where they need to fish for tuna. There they spend 12 to 15 days fishing before returning to San Diego.

Once the fishing vessel is docked, Heflin and his team help offload and grade the tuna before breaking it down into loins.

For restaurants like Verbena, making the most out of a 13-by-18foot kitchen, having Chula Seafood bullet cut the fish for them is essential. Chef Schwandt seasons the tuna with za’atar, sears it rare, and serves it with green harissa aioli, smashed pickled potatoes, and a cilantro-pomegranate relish.

VA L E R I E D U R H A M C O U RT E S Y O F H E R B & S E A , C O U RT E S Y O F V E R B E N A K I TC H E N

Restaurants in San Diego benefit from their proximity to the Pacific Ocean with stellar sunset views and access to fresh seafood.

There’s a bounty of sustainably caught fish and crustaceans from Baja up through the coast of California. Not only does serving up local catch improve freshness, it minimizes the carbon footprint of seafood sourcing and supports our nearby fishing communities.

Expect Herb & Sea’s Fresh Catch menu dishes to be as alluring as this presentation of California sheepshead, a bycatch species native to the Eastern Pacific with a delicate flavor and tender, mildly flaky texture.

NOURISHMENT • RENEWAL

CREATIVITY • CONVENIENCE

THE GRATEFUL HOME Our Meal Plans contain organic, whole ingredients — zero preservatives or fake meats. They are prepared fresh at our San Diego location, located at 1980 Kettner Blvd. We offer Free Delivery on Sunday & Wednesday evenings in select areas of San Diego.

Outside of our delivery range? At checkout, opt for Pickup at CG SD. We offer full breakfasts, lunches & dinners, along with Add Ons like housemade snacks, sweets, and cold pressed juices. We think variety is key to healthy eating — new meals are added regularly.

THE MEAL PLAN DAILY MEALS DELIVERED BY CAFEGRATITUDE.COM

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@CAFEGRATITUDE

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Living Local |

Market Explorer A New Way to Shop

Low-waste grocery delivery has arrived in San Diego

BY MICHELE BIGLEY On Tuesdays, Ben Schrik, owner and operator of Bristlecone

Market (a low-waste grocery delivery service), drives his Subaru around North County to help San Diegans rid their lives of plastic packaging. This former professional motocross rider wasn’t always catering to the health of his environment. After watching the film The 11th Hour, he realized that as a surfer passionate about the ocean’s health, he wanted to have a less-impactful existence on the planet. Schrik says he found inspiration from “the resilience of the bristlecone pine, the oldest living species in the world and earth’s best example of adaptation for survival,” to develop Bristlecone Market, which allows North County residents to purchase (mostly) organic, locally sourced goods without adding to the landfill.

Schrik learned about regenerative organic agriculture and zero-waste products when he worked in the financial planning department at Dr. Bronner’s. But it was through traveling that he first understood how package-free bulk groceries could be the future of sustainability. “Seeing [zero-waste] stores in Australia and San Francisco’s Rainbow Grocery, I realized we desperately needed one locally, one that also makes it easy to find local, in-season produce. I was preparing for a retail store when the pandemic hit, so I pivoted to be a delivery service and launched in February 2021.”

Schrik sources all of Bristlecone’s produce, bread, and eggs from local producers. With thousands of small farms in San Diego County, he wanted to offer customers an easy place to get trustworthy food.

He found no-till and organically farmed produce from Sage Hill Ranch Gardens, gold-standard eggs from Eben-Haezer’s

Happy Hens, and Prager Brothers bread, and packaged it all in compostable or recyclable bags.

He also wanted customers to have access to more than just produce. Using San Francisco’s Rainbow Grocery as a model (which, by his account, has the best bulk section of dry goods on earth), he began sourcing nuts, dried mangoes, flours, pasta, seeds, rice, and more, none of which are shrouded in plastic. For now, most organic dry goods come from outside of San Diego, but he’s actively searching for other local producers like Rio Del Rey Beans, the only heirloom bean grower in the county. Schrik hopes to add different fruit offerings in the future too.

Currently, Bristlecone delivers throughout North County to as far south as Sorrento Valley. Schrik plans to begin offering a mobile zero-waste marketplace at Leucadia Farmers’ Market and a pickup location for folks in south San Diego. A plan for a brick-and-mortar zero-waste shop is also in the works.

He acknowledges that bulk shopping takes some getting used to.

But just like we learned to lug our tote bags to the store, we can adapt our habits to also bring our own containers or cloth bags.

For folks unsure of how to integrate zero-waste shopping into their lives, Schrik advises that you “find a way to romanticize it. Gather a collection of glass jars you like and display them.

You can make it more beautiful than a pantry cluttered with packaging. Plus, you’re saving money buying in bulk and not buying packaging. Finding benefits for you personally helps you overcome the burden of filling containers.”

He’s right. Shoppers generally save between $1 to $2 on bulk purchases while also not adding plastic into the landfill.

Schrik says, “With every major climate change over the last 5,000 years, the bristlecone pine has adapted its bark to survive in its new climate.” We can adapt too.

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Low-Waste Shops in San Diego The Mighty Bin

Above: Ben Schrik sources produce from Sage Hill Ranch Gardens, a small regenerative farm in Escondido.

Above, right: Isabelle DeMillan opens the Mighty Bin after months of anticipation.

NOW OPEN!

North Park’s much-awaited zero-waste shop opened in April of 2022. Offering nontoxic (and mostly organic) goods from producers near and far, the Mighty Bin is hoping to fill a void in the zero-waste market options for mid-city folks. Pick up spices, coffee, tea, or a vast assortment of dry goods. They also offer chips, oils, baking goods, sauces, cleaning supplies, pet treats, and additional items at what’s shaping up to be San Diego’s most comprehensive zero-waste store.

OB People’s Market Since 1971, San Diego’s co-op grocery has offered some of the area’s best organic bulk goods. Their healthy selection of beans, nuts, granola, flour, spices, and more sets San Diego’s zero-waste standards. They offer bags if you forget your own.

Earthwell Refill Kensington’s zero-waste home and beauty refill station is hidden away in a strip mall.

While they don’t offer food, they provide options for cleaning and beauty products including bulk laundry detergent, deodorant, sunscreen, and dental care items. Bring your own containers or use some from a stash donated by the community.

Jimbo’s With four locations in Escondido, 4S Ranch, Carmel Valley, and Carlsbad, Jimbo’s is a favorite for 100% organic produce and reasonably priced bulk options. Fill up on sugar, beans, nuts, granola, and beyond. Bags are provided.

Buy Smart. Buy Small.

Nourish your family with quality food.

314 DEER SPRINGS ROAD, SAN MARCOS

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Living Local |

The Fruits of Summer Seasonal produce to brighten your plate

BY LIZ MURPHY

Summer is a magical time of year filled with sunshine and outdoor adventures. It is also a vibrant season for local produce, with vivid colors and bright flavors. San Diego’s temperate climate brings us fresh fruits and vegetables throughout the year, and the warmer temperatures of the summer produce some community favorites.

“Farmers plan summer crops long before everyone’s winter holiday celebrations are over,” says April Viles of Sand n’ Straw Community Farm in Vista. “From picking seeds to planning garden layouts, farmers are kept busy during the winter. But it’s all worth it once the first harvests of summer start coming—from heirloom tomatoes to Romanesco squash, there’s nothing quite like summer produce.”

There will be seasonal dishes at many San Diego area restaurants to discover. The Plot in Oceanside provides the community with zero-waste, plant-based food like the Cali stir-fry with corn, tomatoes, and avocado. Executive chef Davin Waite says, “Summer ingredients make a chef ’s job easy. It’s funny how nature provides the fresh vibrancy that we crave when it’s hot outside. It’s pretty obvious that nature knows best.”

Buying local, organic produce and products is an important step toward contributing positively to our food system. Visit local markets, support San Diego farmers, and practice zero-waste, plant-forward recipes at home this summer and every season when you can. Living in this beautiful place gifts us the opportunity to work together to keep it that way in the most delectable way possible!

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M A R I E K A Z P H OTO/ I STO C K

In Season

Avocados We are fortunate to enjoy avocados all through the year in Southern California, but you’ll find that during the summer season these local fruits will ripen faster and have that perfect, buttery texture. So order that avocado toast and pick up locally grown avos at the farmers’ market during the sunny summer months.

Tomatoes While you stroll through local markets this time of year, the tomatoes are sure to catch your eye. Enticing shades of reds, yellows, oranges, and greens stand out among the seasonal bounty. Heirlooms are a delectable addition to your favorite summer recipes, raw or cooked.

Tomatoes are a great source of vitamin C and antioxidants like lycopene, so they are also wonderfully nutritious.

Melons Is it really a picnic without watermelon? This sweet, refreshing snack evokes memories of family get-togethers and days at the beach. You will find many San Diego farmers growing different varieties of this juicy summer icon. Look for classic red or heirloom varieties of yellow—and even orange— watermelons. And be sure not to miss out on ripe cantaloupes. Enjoy these fruits as a delicious bite any time of the day, or get creative with recipes like cantaloupe salsa or watermelon poke.

The possibilities and options for enjoyment are Let’s Grow Watermelons endless when it comes to melons. ediblesandiego.com

Q U I N OA TA B B O U L E H Serves 4–6

1½ cups dry quinoa, cooked and cooled 1 cucumber, diced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered ½ cup chopped parsley ¼ cup chopped dill ⅛ cup chopped mint 1 lemon, juiced 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Add all ingredients to a large bowl and stir until thoroughly combined. Adjust seasoning to taste and enjoy it as a delicious summer salad.

Optional: Add falafel, tzatziki, and hummus to make it a meal.

Peppers Sweet and hot peppers grow beautifully in the California sun. You will find many specialty varieties of peppers at summer farmstands, signaling it’s time to spice up new recipes and savor your favorites.

Bring on the heat by fermenting local cayennes to make a homemade hot sauce, or char them to perfection on an open flame.

Summer Squash

ERIK BALDWIN

As versatile as winter varieties, summer squash come in all shapes, sizes, and flavors. From the trusty zucchini to the adorable pattypan and everything in between, this vitamin-rich summer crop should definitely find its way to your table!

Fun fact: Avocados, squash, tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, and peppers, although generally referred to as vegetables, are botanically fruits because they produce seeds.

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M A R I N AT E D S U M M E R S Q UA S H W I T H T OA S T E D WA L N U T S A N D A L M O N D R I C O T TA Serves 4–6

1 cup blanched slivered almonds ⅛ cup plain vegan yogurt ⅓ cup water 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ tablespoon white vinegar ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup raw walnuts ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon maple syrup Salt and pepper to taste 2 sprigs mint 3 zucchini and yellow squash, cut in half lengthwise 1 teaspoon lemon zest ¼ cup torn fresh basil Lemon juice

Make the almond ricotta: Soak blanched almonds overnight in cool water or give them a quick soak for 30 minutes in hot water and strain the water just before using. Add almonds, yogurt, water, lemon juice, white vinegar, and salt to a high-speed blender and process until almost smooth but still slightly grainy. Adjust seasoning to taste and add more water if needed for desired texture. Refrigerate until ready to use. Optional: Add nutritional yeast for a deeper flavor.

Toast the walnuts: In a skillet over medium heat, toast walnuts for 2 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until aromatic (being careful not to burn them), and set aside.

Make the dressing: In a large mixing bowl, combine 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, white balsamic vinegar, pepper flakes, garlic, maple syrup, salt, and pepper, and stir to combine. Lightly pound or smack mint leaves with a mortar or the back of a spoon to release oils and add them to the dressing.

Make the summer squash: Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet (cast-iron preferred) over medium-high heat. Add squash, flat side down, in a single layer. Cook for 5 minutes or until golden brown, moving around as needed to avoid sticking and to cook evenly. Reduce heat and cover; cook until tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Transfer squash to a cutting board and allow to cool for a few minutes before slicing into 2- to 3-inch pieces.

Add squash to the dressing and toss until evenly coated. Remove mint sprigs and set aside. Allow squash to marinate for 10 minutes, tossing occasionally. Add lemon zest to the almond ricotta and spread over a serving plate. Layer the squash over the ricotta and top with toasted walnuts, mint leaves, torn basil, and a squeeze of extra lemon juice. Drizzle with olive oil and salt and enjoy! Optional: Serve with toast, polenta, or pasta.

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Cabernet Franc | Dry Rosé Zinfandel | Sangiovese | Malbec Cabernet Franc | Albarino Open for Tasting and Sales Open for tasting and sales Saturdays & Sundays 11-5 Saturdays & Sundays 11–5 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, CA 910 Gem Lane, Ramona, CA chuparosavineyards.com chuparosavineyards.com 12

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LIZ MURPHY

SAN DIEGO RAMONA VALLEY WINES Zinfandel | Sangiovese | Malbec COUNTY WINES

What does one cook during an August heat wave? How about nothing? Become a digital member and get hyper-seasonal recipes like this Hearts of Palm Ceviche sent straight to your inbox every week.

H E A RT S O F PA L M C E V I C H E Serves 4–6 1 can hearts of palm, drained and roughly chopped 1 cucumber, diced 1 shallot, diced 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 handful cherry tomatoes, diced ¼ cup cilantro, chopped 1 tablespoon kelp granules ½ teaspoon fine sea salt 2 small limes, juiced 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Tortilla chips to serve

ERIK BALDWIN

Add all ingredients to a large bowl and stir until thoroughly combined. Adjust seasoning to taste and enjoy with tortilla chips.

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Living Local |

Attractions & Events Soak up the flavors of summer at these local food events

BY RYA N R I Z Z U T O

@veggiegangmarkets First and third Fridays each month; 5–9pm 7727 Formula Pl., San Diego A recent culinary vision of chef Avonte Hartsfield, owner of Rollin’ Roots, this event premiered in March with over 30 plant-based food and lifestyle vendors.

The Veggie Gang Farmers’ Market is held every first and third Friday of the month in Miramar. Vendors include hot sauce producers, cane juices, lifestyle products, vegan cookies, street food, and more.

F I R S T A N N UA L W E S T C OA S T H O T S AU C E EXPERIENCE June 18, 10am–7pm, and June 19, noon–7pm Port Pavilion on Broadway Pier 1000 N. Harbor Dr., San Diego $20-125 / ticket 14

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Turn up the heat at the first annual West Coast Hot Sauce Experience being held over Father’s Day weekend. Taste hundreds of hot sauces from up and down the best coast as you listen to live music and indulge in spicy eats from local street food vendors. Proceeds support the Gary Sinise Foundation, which works to help activeduty military, veterans, first responders, and their families.

S O U L S WA P M E E T June 18, July 16, August 20; 11am–4pm Westfield Mission Valley Mall 1640 Camino del Rio N, San Diego $3 entry fee Celebrate and support Black art, food, and live music at this monthly open-air market. BIPOC vendors from across San Diego showcase handmade jewelry, vintage clothing, soul food, and more. Live DJs play throwback jams and kids are welcome to play and create in the Kids Zone.

4 2 N D A N N UA L O B S T R E E T FA I R & C H I L I C O O K- O F F June 25; 10am–8pm Newport Ave., Ocean Beach, San Diego You be the judge of who has the best chili in Ocean Beach during this oceanfront chili cook-off competition. Amateur and professional chili chefs compete for awards in Best Restaurant Chili, Best Amateur Chili, Judge’s Choice, and People’s Choice.

Groove to three stages of live music, paint on a community art mural, and peruse and purchase art down Artist’s Alley. This event draws over 70,000 attendees and offers fun for the whole family.

PHOTOSBYJIM/ISTOCK, MARIA HESSE

V E G G I E G A N G FA R M E R S ’ MARKETS

of the Coast Wine Competition (winners are announced at the fair’s grand opening). Sip, ride, and dine through Independence Day.

DAYG O E AT Z @BlackSanDiego Last Sunday each month; 1–5pm Synergy CoWorking Centre 6785 Imperial Ave., San Diego Daygo Eatz, presented by local nonprofit Black San Diego, is a monthly food festival featuring some of San Diego’s best mobile food vendors. The event series showcases the talent of Black chefs and Black-owned businesses in San Diego. Black San Diego supports and educates the Black business community by providing valuable business resources and platforms for the community to shine. Plan to get there early as Daygo Eatz tends to attract hundreds of visitors to each event.

S A N D I E G O C O U N T Y FA I R

LIFEIMAGESBYGLORIA/ISTOCK

June 8–July 4 (closed on Mondays and Tuesdays in June); 11am–10pm (closing at 11pm on Fridays and Saturdays) Del Mar Fairgrounds 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar $0–$20 / ticket One of San Diego’s most iconic summer attractions is back starting on Wednesday, June 8, at the Del Mar Fairgrounds.

Attracting over 1.5 million visitors each year, the San Diego County Fair is famous for its indulgent fried foods, a full array of carnival rides and games, and an all-star lineup of outdoor concerts. Local beer and wine are celebrated with the International San Diego Beer Competition and the Toast

B E E K E E P I N G C L A S S E S AT W I L D W I L L OW FA R M & E D U C AT I O N C E N T E R

U-PICK APPLES IN JULIAN Mid-August to Early October Apples and Art Orchards / Gastil Mountain Farms 1052 Julian Orchards Dr., Julian Starting at $12 per ½ peck of apples (~5 lbs) Take a drive up to the quaint Gold Rushera town of Julian to pick your own apples and satisfy your sweet tooth with a freshly baked Julian apple pie from a local baker.

Apples and Art Orchards grows over 10 different varieties of popular and heirloom apples from 50-year-old apple trees.

Harvest your own apples and then learn how to freshly press them into apple cider with instruction from the farm owner.

After your visit, stop by a nearby winery or cidery for a refreshing taste of the season’s bounty.

Find and promote more events on ediblesandiego.com/things-to-do-in-san-diego.

July 30, August 6, and August 13; 10am–4pm Wild Willow Farm 2550 Sunset Ave., San Diego $65 for a single day $180 for three-day series What’s all the buzz about? Learn how to care for bees, construct a beehive, and harvest honey from Wild Willow’s resident expert beekeeper. The course is held in the Tijuana River Valley and progresses from an introductory 101 class to a more advanced 103 class. Bee-fore you know it, you will have the tools and techniques needed to start a beehive of your own.

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edible san diego Local Monday Escondido—Welk Resort √† 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. 3–7pm 760-651-3630

Tuesday Coronado √

1st St. & B Ave., Ferry Landing 2:30–6pm 760-741-3763

Escondido √*

262 E. Grand Ave. 2:30–sunset 760-480-4101

The Farmstand NEW

(formerly People’s Produce Night Market) 4261 Market St. 5–8pm 619-813-9148

Mira Mesa √*

10510 Marauder Way 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) Closed in January 858-272-7054

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista √

2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–7pm 619-279-0032

Enjoy the Open Air Wednesday

Thursday

Little Italy Wednesday Mercato √*†

Lemon Grove √*

Ocean Beach √

Linda Vista √*†

Santee *†

North Park Thursday √*†

South Bay √

Oceanside Morning √*

State Street in Carlsbad Village √

Rancho Bernardo √

600 W. Date St. 9:30am–1:30pm 619-233-3901

4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–8pm (4–7pm winter) 619-279-0032 Carlton Hills Blvd. & Mast Blvd.

3–7pm (2:30–6:30pm winter) 619-449-8427 4475 Bonita Rd. 3–7pm 619-550-7180 State St. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 2:30–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 760-453-7076

2885 Lemon Grove Ave. 3:30–6:30pm 619-813-9148 6939 Linda Vista Rd. 3–7pm (2–6pm winter) 760-504-4363 2900 North Park Way at 30th 3–7:30pm 208-922-8900 401 Pier View Way & Hwy. 101 9am–1pm 760-791-3241 16535 Via Esprillo 11am–1:30pm 619-279-0032

Temecula—Promenade √*

40820 Winchester Rd. by Macy’s 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

Friday

Pacific Beach Tuesday à

Borrego Springs √

San Marcos √

Imperial Beach √*†

901 Hornblend St. 2–7pm 208-922-8900

251 North City Dr. 3–7pm (3–6pm fall-winter) 760-744-1270

Temecula—Vail Headquarters √* 32115 Temecula Pkwy.

9am–1pm 760-728-7343

UCSD Town Square √

UCSD Campus, Town Square 10am–2pm, Sept to June 858-534-4248

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700 Palm Canyon Dr. 8am–noon, Oct to Apr 760-767-5555

EAT the most delicious californiagrown fruits and vegGIES 7 days a week

10 Evergreen Ave. 2–7pm (2–6pm winter) info@imperialbeachfarmersmarket. org

La Mesa Village √*

La Mesa Blvd. btwn Palm & 4th St. 3–6pm, year-round 619-795-3363

Rancho Bernardo √

13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9am–1pm 760-500-1709

Markets Guide Saturday

find the freshest local catch

City Heights √*†!

Poway √*

Tuna Harbor Dockside Market

Del Mar √

Rancho Penasquitos

Vista √*†

Fallbrook Main Street √

Sand n’ Straw Community Farm

Little Italy Mercato à

Temecula—Old Town √*

Wightman St. btwn Fairmount & 43rd St. 9am–1pm 760-504-4363 1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4pm 858-465-0013

14134 Midland Rd. 8am–1pm 619-249-9395

598 Harbor Ln. Port of San Diego 8am–3pm

9400 Fairgrove Ln. 9am–1pm 858-484-8788

111 S. Main Ave. btwn Hawthorne & Fig 9am–2pm 760-728-5845 600 W. Date St. 8am–2pm 619-233-3901

325 Melrose Dr. 8am–noon 760-945-7425

629 Mar Vista Dr. 10am–4pm 760-877-9054 Sixth & Front St. 8am–12:30pm 760-728-7343

Support local growers and businesses

Sunday Murrieta √*

Hillcrest √*

3960 Normal St. 9am–2pm 619-237-1632

La Jolla Open Aire √

24480 Village Walk Plaza I-15, exit west on Calif. Oaks & Kalmia 9am–1pm 760-728-7343

7335 Girard Ave. & Genter 9am–1pm 858-454-1699

Leucadia √*

Rancho Santa Fe—Del Rayo Village √ 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9:30am–2pm 619-743-4263

Santa Ysabel √

21887 Washington St. 11am–4pm 760-782-9202

Solana Beach √ 410 S. Cedros Ave. Noon–4pm 858-755-0444

185 Union St. 10am–2pm 858-272-7054

cultivate community Due to Covid-19: Markets shown in gray are temporarily closed and all listings are subject to change. Please contact markets directly to confirm hours of operation and locations.

Visit ediblesandiego.com for more complete information and links to market websites.

*M arket vendors accept WIC (Women, Infants, Children) Farmers’ Market checks. †M arket vendors accept EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer). !M arket vendors accept WIC Fruit and Vegetable checks. √ Markets certified by the San Diego County Agricultural Commissioner, ensuring that the produce is grown by the seller or another certified farmer in California, and meets all state quality standards. Temecula markets and the Murrieta market are certified by the Riverside County Agricultural Commissioner.

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Locally grown in Escondido Produce Value Boxes Available for pickup at Farmers Markets at Drop Sites

Home Delivery available Wholesale available

Growing Seasonal Organic Produce Local Farm Direct Join our CSA today!

Learn More!

Sign up!

JROrganicsFarm.com

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Eating Well |

From Sea Forest to Table Daybreak Seaweed turns Pacific kelp into seasonings

BY HANNAH WENTE

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“Everyone is talking about local food and local meat, but we have abundant local seaweed species all around us. Seaweed can be this super sustainable, regenerative food that improves water quality. Like all primary producers, it actually pulls carbon out of the water and helps to improve the water quality, helping to mitigate the impacts of climate change on ocean ecosystems.”

—Catherine O’Hare

C

atherine O’Hare and Avery Resor witnessed the pitfalls of the modern food system by working on farms and learning about conventional farming. These shortcomings led them to create Daybreak Seaweed, a company that turns responsibly grown West Coast kelp into seasonings.

The two met in the San Francisco Bay Area in 2017 through a mutual friend. They connected over the intrigue of seaweed farming and bringing kelp products to California.

“Growing up by the ocean in Southern California, I loved being on the water and by the water,” says O’Hare. “Seaweed is a flavorful ingredient. I thought more people should know about it and cook with it.”

People in the Bay Area were foraging for wild seaweed, but it was nothing like the seaweed farming industry of Maine and other parts of the East Coast. O’Hare and Resor were both excited about the idea of promoting a sustainable food source.

“Everyone is talking about local food and local meat, but we have abundant local seaweed species all around us,” says O’Hare. “Seaweed can be this super sustainable, regenerative food that improves water quality. Like all primary producers, it actually pulls carbon out of the water and helps to improve the water quality, helping to mitigate the impacts of climate change on ocean ecosystems. The climate piece really got Avery and I hooked. It’s such a sustainable way to produce food.”

All of Daybreak Seaweed’s products are vegan and made with West Coast, US-grown seaweed. Daybreak’s most popular product is a classic seaweed salt, made with Northern California sea salt from the San Francisco Salt Company. It can be used in place of coarse salt to flavor foods.

During the pandemic, O’Hare and Resor collaborated with chefs at the Oakland restaurant Soba Ichi to create their Shichimi Togarashi, a seven-spice blend. It contains yuzu, orange, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, red chiles, and seaweed and is best on soba noodles or cucumber salads. It can also add a salty, spicy kick to scrambled eggs or popcorn (recipe on page 23).

O’Hare and Resor began their business hand-harvesting nori in Northern California and currently source alaria and laminaria from small-scale farms in Alaska: Seagrove Kelp and Alaska Shellfish Farms, Noble Ocean Farms, and Windy Bay Kelp Farm.

Seagrove Kelp specializes in alaria, also known as West Coast wakame or ribbon kelp. They collect a wild kelp specimen, then cultivate it in a nursery onshore. Kelp is like a fern, with spores

that reproduce. In a nursery, the kelp sits in tanks of water and the spores are captured onto a thin clear line. They outplant kelp into the bay on long lines attached to buoys.

Alaska Shellfish Farms is an oyster and mussel farm owned by Weatherly and Greg Bates. Their aquafarm gets covered in weeds, just like a land farm would, and those seaweeds are harvested for use in Daybreak’s kelp products.

Once the seaweed is harvested, it is dried on-site or barged to Seattle to dry.

“We do the drying and processing ourselves,” says O’Hare.

“We’ve done it a lot of different ways, and it’s still being perfected.”

They use dehydrators to dry the seaweed, and then do the processing and packaging in San Diego.

While Daybreak’s current farmers are in Alaska, they are hoping to add new farms from the Santa Barbara area that harvest dulse, a red algae that grows on the California coast.

“It’s kind of the Wild West right now,” says O’Hare. “It’s such a new industry. There’s not a lot of the infrastructure for processing, and there’s so much needed. Right now, Alaska is set up for the fishing industry.”

When O’Hare and Resor started sourcing from Alaska, there weren’t many farms actively seaweed farming. That changed over the past two years, and they’re hoping the industry can grow with small-scale, community-minded farmers leading the way.

“We want to advocate for a thoughtful growth of this industry,” says O’Hare. “There’s a lot of talk that seaweed will change the world, so it’s important to develop it in a considerate way. There’s a lot of money getting poured into it. We don’t want to repeat the mistakes that happened on land.”

Luckily, Alaska has protections that perpetuate native seaweed varieties and discourage monocropping. Each year, a farm has to gather its source material from a local wild population.

“Most seaweed farms have very minimal input, therefore they’re very sustainable,” says O’Hare. “All seaweed needs to grow is saltwater and sun. It doesn’t need any other inputs—it’s a clean way to grow food.”

Find Daybreak Seaweed Company’s seasonings at Jimbo’s, Smallgoods, Home Ec, or Catalina Offshore Products. Follow @daybreakseaweed on Instagram and find more recipes at daybreakseaweed.com.

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Ocean-Lovers Movie Night Mixing seaweed into chocolate chip cookie dough might seem downright sneaky, but your summer snacking just got a whole lot stronger with these recipes from Daybreak Seaweed. Set the scene for an ocean-friendly movie party perfect for a variety of ages and watch these healthy treats disappear.

Five films ocean-lovers must watch (again and again) Chasing Coral (documentary) directed by Jeff Orlowski My Octopus Teacher (documentary) directed by Pippa Ehrlich and James Reed Sea of Hope (documentary) directed by Robert Nixon.

Whale Rider (drama) directed by Niki Caro Moana (family musical) by Walt Disney Animation Studios Sea of Hope film facts: The nearest Pacific Ocean Mission Blue Hope Spots designated

by Dr. Sylvia Earle include Monterey Bay, the California Seamounts, the Gulf of California, Parque Nacional Revillagigedo, and the White Shark Cafe.

S E AW E E D F Y I Seaweed: A general term for aquatic plants and algae.

Kelp: This brown algae is the largest subgroup of seaweed. It is a good source of vitamins A, B1, B2, C, D, and E, as well as fiber, zinc, iodine, magnesium, copper, and potassium. It can be eaten raw, cooked, or dried and is a traditional food of Korea, Japan, China, Iceland, Ireland, and Canada.

Did you know kelp has 10 times more calcium than milk?

Seaweed is typically harvested in April and May, depending on ocean conditions. The season lines up nicely with the fishing season in Alaska because kelp gets planted in October when fishing season ends and is harvested in April before salmon season begins.

It’s legal to harvest kelp for personal use in California with a fishing license.

The daily bag limit is 10 pounds wet weight. Recreational harvesters are prohibited from harvesting or disturbing eelgrass (Zostera species), surfgrass (Phyllospadix species), and sea palm (Postelsia palmaeformis).

Marine protected areas, marine managed areas, special closures, and state marine parks may prohibit cutting or harvesting. Marine protected area boundaries extend up to the mean high tide line.

Slow Fish San Diego hosts events throughout the year. Learn more at slowfoodurbansandiego.org.

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S E AW E E D P O P C O R N 2 tablespoons coconut oil ½ cup popcorn kernels Olive oil to taste 2 tablespoons seaweed flakes or spicy seaweed flakes 2 teaspoons sea salt 1–2 tablespoons nutritional yeast (optional) Add coconut oil to a pot and put on medium-high heat. After a few moments, add 2 kernels to the pot; when they have popped, the oil is hot enough to pop the kernels. Add the remaining ½ cup of kernels to the pot and cover.

(Keep a crack in the lid to let steam escape.) Shake every so often. When the popping has slowed to 1 to 2 seconds between pops, turn off the heat and take the popcorn out of the pot. Drizzle olive oil over popcorn, shake on seaweed flakes, salt, and nutritional yeast (if using). Mix and enjoy!

S E AW E E D S N AC K M I X This snack mix doesn’t need too much of an introduction, but it should come with a warning because it is seriously addictive.

Something about the combination of sweet, salty, and crunchy makes this a snack mix that will satisfy and keep you coming back for more!

This recipe can be made with lots of substitutions or alterations. Use any nut if you don’t have cashews, and maple syrup is a great substitute for honey.

Note: Measure the olive oil first so it coats the measuring spoon and prevents the honey from sticking.

Warming the honey will make it easier to measure and mix.

1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar

1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes ½ teaspoon salt 1½ cups cashews ¼ cup sesame seeds 1 tablespoon seaweed flakes Preheat the oven to 350° and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Add olive oil and honey to a medium mixing bowl. Add rice wine vinegar, turmeric, red pepper flakes, and salt and whisk until combined. Add cashews and sesame seeds. Use a spatula to mix together, then spread onto the prepared baking sheet.

Bake for 20 minutes, stirring halfway to prevent burning. When the nuts are done, immediately sprinkle the seaweed flakes on top. Allow to fully cool for 10 minutes before transferring to a bowl to serve.

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TA H I N I C H O C O L AT E CHIP COOKIES These cookies are almost famous.

Inspired by Zoe Kanan’s black sesame version, this recipe has been adapted to make a seaweed sesame cookie and they do not disappoint.

It will be the cookie to which all other cookies are measured; they’re flavorful from the tahini and seaweed flakes, soft in the middle, and chewy all over. Take the time to chill the dough—you won’t regret it!

3 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1½ teaspoons sea salt ¾ cup brown sugar ⅔ cup sugar 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 2 large eggs ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon tahini 4 teaspoons vanilla extract 13 ounces dark chocolate chunks 10 grams or 2 tablespoons Nori + Wakame flakes Sesame seeds (optional) Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and sea salt together in a medium bowl and set aside. In a large bowl, mix the sugars together, then incorporate butter until creamed. Add the eggs one at a time, then add tahini and vanilla, slowly mixing all the while. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients, scatter in the chocolate and seaweed, and don’t overmix.

Measure ¼-cup portions into round balls and roll in sesame seeds (optional). Press slightly in the center to give each cookie a dimple.

Chill for 2 to 4 hours. Trust us, the cookies will be better for it.

Preheat the oven to 400°. Bake the cookies until they have spread and have golden-brown edges, about 12 minutes. The cookies are perfectly done when they are still puffy in the center.

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A D D I T I O N A L WAYS T O E NJ OY S E AW E E D F L A K E S •

Sprinkle on eggs, rice, or salad in place of salt

•

Use in vegan Caesar dressing

•

Add to a morning smoothie for extra nutrients

•

Season pasta, pizza, or ramen

•

Sprinkle on focaccia, bagels, or bread dough

•

Give an umami kick to tomatoes and avocado toast

•

Garnish over creamy cheese or burrata

FAVO R I T E R E C O M M E N DAT I O N S F O R S E AW E E D S A LT •

Boost flavors in soups, stews, and broths

•

Sprinkle on grilled veggies or meat

•

Use when marinating meat or fish

•

Add to cookies, brownies, or scones

•

Garnish anywhere else you use sea salt

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CALIFORNIA CUISINE HAS NEVER LOOKED BETTER DAILY BREAKFAST, LUNCH AND DINNER SUNDAY CHAMPAGNE BRUNCH Al Fresco Dining | Sushi & Seafood Options | Complimentary Parking Located at the Catamaran Resort Hotel and Spa | (858) 539-8635 | OceanaCoastalKitchen.com 26

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| Growing Good

AW, SHUCKS!

Carlsbad Aquafarm offers juicy oyster tastings and a great tour S T O RY A N D P H O T O G R A P H Y BY J U L I E P E N D R AY

Carlsbad’s warm waters help oysters grow quicker than in Washington State.

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As we rush by on I-5, Carlsbad Boulevard, or the train tracks, some of us may wonder what all those white buoys in Agua Hedionda Lagoon are about.

Now, we can see for ourselves what lives beneath them and why scores of pelicans snooze there. After 70 years of private seafood farming research and experiments in the outer pool of the lagoon, the public is now welcome to take tours at Carlsbad Aquafarm. The visit is perfect for all ages and offers fascinating science about the aquafarm’s coexistence with the neighboring desalination plant. Plus, you’ll discover a lot about the sex life of oysters, not to mention how to impress your date with new shucking skills.

Recently, visitors from Sweden, Los Angeles, Redding, and Escondido exhaled satisfied oohs and aahs while downing plump, juicy shellfish straight out of the shells. “Has anyone ever found a pearl?” one man asked. “No,” says our guide, Rachel Taylor. “Edible oysters don’t grow pearls. Ours are very good spitters; they spit out the sand.” She says oysters also grow more quickly in Carlsbad than in Washington State due to warmer weather.

The aquafarm produces Pinnacle Point oysters and Carlsbad mussels. Don’t expect to find them on restaurant menus as the farm only sells directly to customers via online orders. Oysters are $20 a dozen; mussels $8 a pound. Whole Foods buys mussels each day.

A total of 2 million pounds of shellfish grows here at a time. Oysters grow in floating trays, while mussels cling together on ropes, all under floats. Seafood farming began privately in this “third pool“ of the lagoon in 1952 as a research project with UCSD, with lobsters as the first experiment. Carlsbad Aquafarm has operated here for 30 years and still partners with research institutions as well as the City of Carlsbad to keep a working waterfront going. It has been open to the public now for six months.

An oyster’s journey to consumption is explained during the one-hour tour. Each female spawns 200 million eggs every spring. The farm takes some of the eggs via syringe through the shells and also buys some from other operations, says Taylor. “It’s basically an IVB [in vitro breeding] process.”

“Why do the oysters taste so creamy?” one woman asks.

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Carlsbad Beach is a great walk directly opposite Agua Hedionda Lagoon. 

 Mussels clump together for safety as they grow on ropes in Agua Hedionda Lagoon.

Infant oysters have no shells but start developing them at 2 weeks old. 

 A breeder oyster can become a “whopper” by age 5 years.

 Young oysters go through a tumbler each month to help shape their shells.

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“It’s the caviar—the eggs. It’s spring,” Taylor explains. “When the water warms up, they make babies.” Infant oysters have no shells but start growing them within two weeks.

One oyster on display in a shallow trough made us all gasp. It was about 10 inches long. “That’s a breeder,” says Taylor. “It’s about 5 years old. You wouldn’t want to eat it. It would be tough.” The farm keeps breeders until age 5 but sells others at 11 months. The young ones go through a tumbling machine each month for 60 seconds to shape their shells. “Normally,” says Taylor, “waves rub off rough edges and polish a shell into a crescent shape—but we don’t have waves here, so we do this. The shape gives an oyster more room to grow.”

Oysters are intertidal, so they can be out of the water for a while. She says pelican poop also helps their development because it fertilizes the algae. Before the shellfish are sold, they go through tanks of flowing seawater to be flushed and purged.

The farm is in a symbiotic relationship with the adjacent Carlsbad Desalination Plant. Both operations are on land owned by NRG Energy. “The oysters pre-clean the ocean water before it goes into the plant,” says Taylor.

“The plant sucks in so much water that it helps keep a strong artificial current to pull water into the lagoon. After the purification process, the briny water is released back into the lagoon near Carlsbad Boulevard, where sometimes seals and sea turtles are seen.”

Filtration by the shellfish also encourages eelgrass growth, which provides a safe habitat for a variety of marine life. Visiting fish keep the pelicans well fed; they devour up to four pounds a day. Other lagoon visitors have included octopi, starfish, seahorses, and even a humpback whale.

The entrance to the aquafarm is tricky to spot because no signage is allowed on the NRG frontage. It’s best to map the address—4600 Carlsbad Boulevard—and look for the driveway opposite Lifeguard Tower 30. The tall Encina Power Plant under deconstruction on the land is the biggest landmark.

The tour cost is $40 per person (ages 13+). Weekend tours are expected to be booked solidly through summer. Weekdays still have open spots, which can be booked online. In October, the parking area will move to the north end of the lagoon, where a big OYSTER FARM sign is displayed. For more information, check out carlsbadaquafarm.com or call 760-908-2744.

Tasha Tuong and Minh Vuong-Dac came from Los Angeles to try their hands at shucking oysters at Carlsbad Aquafarm.

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Delicious Garden Delights

KIDS

Activities, Activities, recipes, recipes, stories stories (and (and more!) more!) created created for for family family sharing sharing Illustration: Pati Aguilera, from Rooftop Garden (Barefoot Books)

Activity from Kids’ Garden (Barefoot Books)

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LET’S EAT!

Wash your hands before you start, and always have a grown-up with you when you cook!

Homemade Hummus

Picnic Kabobs LE T’ S GATH ER :

• • •

: LE T’ S G AT H ER

ickpeas

• 1 cup canned chth (light) tahini • 1/8 cup smoo oil • 1/4 cup olive • 1 garlic clove edium-sized lemon • Juice of one m r to taste) • 1/2 tsp salt (oter • 4–8 Tbsp wa of cumin • Optional: pinch

Makes: 4-6 servings Time: 10 minutes

1. Place the chickpeas, tahini, olive oil, garlic clove and

lemon juice into a blender or food processor. Mix for about 30 seconds or until you have a thick paste.

2. Add in the salt. Continue to mix, slowly adding

spoonfuls of water until you have a smooth and creamy paste.

3. Sprinkle with cumin and serve!

Recipes adapted from Kids’ Kitchen, written by Fiona Bird and illustrated by Roberta Arenson (Barefoot Books)

1 large carrot Hummus 8 slices whole grain bread (small loaf) • 8 half-inch slices of cucumber, cut in half • 4 cherry tomatoes • Vegetable peeler • Table knife • Cutting board • 4 small wooden skewers Makes: 4 Time: 10 minutes

1. Peel the outer skin from

the carrot and cut off the base.

2. Continue to peel and make long carrot curls.

3. Spread the hummus onto a piece of whole grain

bread. Cover with another piece of bread to make a sandwich. Repeat with the remaining hummus and bread. (Use our recipe on the left, or store-bought hummus works too!)

4. Use the table knife to remove the crusts and cut

the sandwiches into quarters.

5. Place one sandwich piece onto the cutting board

and push a skewer through the middle.

6. Repeat this using a piece of cucumber, a few

carrot curls, a sandwich, a cherry tomato, a sandwich, carrot curls, cucumber and another sandwich. Make sure you always push the skewer through a chunk of food and onto the board.

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Delicious Garden Delights

KIDS

ACTIVITY: Three Sisters Garden

Summer is the time to start thinking about foods we will need to harvest in the fall. Let’s plan our own “three sisters” garden!

Plants, like people, often help one another out. Sometimes known as the “three sisters,” Indigenous peoples in North America discovered that sweet corn, beans and squash work well when planted together.

45 minutes; 4 weeks later, 15 minutes Spring/Summer Outdoor

ER : LE T’ S G ATH

spade or fork watering can , bucket of finished st po m co d te finely sif s ed se rn co • sweet seeds • runner bean s ed se • squash

• • •

LET’S GET STARTED: 1. Clear a circular space about

6 ft (1.8 m) in diameter in a part of your garden that gets plenty of direct sunlight.

2. Prepare the soil in this area by

watering, digging and adding finished, finely sifted compost until the soil is loose and crumbly.

3. Create a mound of soil about

12 in (30 cm) high and about 5 ft (1.5 m) across.

Tip

ts start When the plan fr r uits and producing thei soup or stew seeds, make a harvest! and en joy the

4. Plant 6 sweet corn seeds in

the middle of the mound, about 12 in (30 cm) apart.

5. Water your sweet corn regularly

and watch it grow.

6. Approximately 4 – 8 weeks later

when the sweet corn is about 8 in (20 cm) tall, plant the bean seeds in a circle around it about 4 in (10 cm) away from the sweet corn.

7. At the same time, plant 4 squash

seeds spaced evenly around the outer edges of the mound.

8. Watch your Three Sisters

work together to grow tall and strong.

Activity from Kids’ Garden, written by Whitney Cohen and illustrated by Roberta Arenson (Barefoot Books)

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Rooftop Garden

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story by danna smith

Watch the animated video & listen to the song at www.barefootbooks.com/rooftopgarden

Grow, garden! Grow, garden!

Grow, garden! Grow, grow, grow!

A rooftop garden is what we need — Friends and family all agree.

A garden starts with hardy seeds.

A rooftop garden is what we need.

Water the soil when it gets dry.

Time to wait till – me-oh-my!

Tiny shoots reach for the sky.

Water the soil when it gets dry.

Dig a hole and in they go.

Sow the seeds with a shovel and hoe.

Plant them, pat them, row by row.

Dig a hole and in they go.

Grow, garden! Grow, garden!

Grow, garden! Grow, grow, grow!

Grab your gloves and fill a jug.

Gather slimy snails and slugs.

Say goodbye to hungry bugs!

Grab your gloves and fill a bug jug.

Grow, garden! Grow, garden!

Grow, garden! Grow, grow, grow!

Pull the weeds and make a stack.

Pesky weeds! We fill a sack.

Pick them, pull them, they grow back!

Pull the weeds and let’s make a stack.

Time to harvest our rooftop crop.

Pick and pull and twist — don’t stop!

Fill the baskets to the top.

Time to harvest our own rooftop crop.

Lots of sun and a little shade Bring lettuce, carrots, mint and sage.

Mark them with the signs we made.

Lots of sun and a little bit of shade.

Garden friends fly to and fro, Spreading pollen as they go — Dust that helps the veggies grow.

Garden friends, they fly to and fro.

A garden feast! Oh, what a treat.

Prepare the food and take a seat.

Pass a plate and let’s all eat.

A garden feast! Oh, what a treat.

Yum, garden! Yum, garden!

Yum, garden! Yum, yum, yum!

Illustrations: Pati Aguilera, from Rooftop Garden (Barefoot Books)

Six Stages of Plant Growth

world.

Thousands of kinds of plants exist in the of most And while they are all very different, h. growt them follow the same stages of

Stage 4:

Budding

Stage 3:

Vegetative

Stage 1:

Germination

During seed growth, nutrients (materials needed to grow) inside the seed help it sprout.

This is called germination.

Once enough leaves have formed, the stem gets Stage 2: taller and the leaves Seedling larger as the growth of As a seedling, the roots flower buds begins. grow down into the soil as green leaves grow above the ground.

While the plant continues to get bigger, the flower buds are getting ready to bloom.

When the flowers bloom, pollinators like birds, bees and butterflies visit them to drink nectar (sweet juice) and pick up pollen.

Then the flowers fall off and the plant grows fruits or vegetables.

Stage 6:

Ripening

At the final stage, the fruit is fully grown, ready to harvest and enjoy!

is created in partnership with indie, award-winning, Concord, Massachusetts-based children’s publisher, Barefoot Books. Learn more about Barefoot Books by visitingSwww.barefootbooks.com.

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Book interior from Rooftop Garden (Barefoot Books)

Stage 5:

Flowering

Sustainable

San Diego’s fisheries and farmers are leading global innovation to continue producing food in a changing climate A RT Z E I G L E R / I STO C K

BY PAU L H O R M I C K

36 36

ed d ii b b ll e e ss aa n nd d ii e eg go o .. c co om m e

Waterways

The

leaves on tomato plants wither and droop. Higher winds knock avocados and other fruit from their branches. At sea, warmer waters trouble the existence of kelp, crustaceans, and fish. These are just some of the local climate change phenomena that are challenging our agriculture and seafood industries. Our farmers and fishermen are nonetheless proving to be resilient to these challenges. They are, as well, leading the world in efforts to fight climate change.

SU UM MM ME ER R 2 20 02 22 2 || S

edible SAN SAN DIEGO DIEGO 37 37 edible

The world’s oceans have absorbed most of the heat that has resulted from anthropogenic CO2 emissions.

In the last 30 years, heat waves in the oceans have increased by 50%.

Ocean temperatures are expected to rise by one to seven degrees Fahrenheit within the next 80 years. That can have significant ramifications for seafood, including the catches off our coast.

Theresa Sinicrope Talley with California Sea Grant, based at Scripps Institution of Oceanography, says there are natural shifts in the sea life off our coast as waters warm and cool with the seasons and decadal regime shifts. Sardines, mackerel, and spiny lobster are more common during warmer periods, while sablefish, halibut, and albacore favor colder waters. “The extreme events associated with climate change may exacerbate these fluctuations,” she says. “For example, during the 2013–2018 marine heat waves we saw not only the usual warm phase species but also more tropical species, like dorado, mahi-mahi, marlin, and bluefin tuna, and also more toxic algal blooms.” Dr. Talley also warns that warming waters may be exacerbating diseases and pathogens in our waters, such as sea star wasting and sea urchin black spot disease.

According to Dr. Talley, the giant kelp growing in the waters off our coast dies back in warmer conditions, jeopardizing the survival of the creatures that rely on the kelp for food and shelter, such as sea urchins and some rockfishes.

At the same time, this enhances other organisms, such as the shorter, understory kelps. The species most affected by environmental change are the ones that fit into narrow habitat niches, especially ones that aren’t very mobile.

More frequent and intense storms brought about by climate change can also make seafood fishing more difficult and even dangerous. Rising ocean levels may soon affect docks and other fisheries infrastructure.

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric 38

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DAV E R U D I E

At Sea

Administration (NOAA), close to one-third of anthropogenic CO2 has been absorbed by the world’s oceans, which makes the water about 30% more acidic than it was before the beginning of the Industrial Revolution 200 years ago. The more acidic seawater makes the building of seashells more difficult for oysters, clams, sea urchins, and corals.

This ocean acidification has already affected local seafood production.

With operations in Carlsbad’s Agua Hedionda Lagoon, Carlsbad Aquafarm grows clams from “seed,” almost microscopic clam offspring, which they ship in from the Pacific Northwest. In 2007, the production of clam seed was almost completely decimated because of ocean acidification, with a failure rate of 90 to 95%, forcing the seafood farm to change operations and produce its own seed.

It may seem that all these developments are making our local seafood more precarious, yet Dr. Talley says that fishermen are kept abreast of developments by the latest science, making the commercial fishing off San Diego’s coast some of the most responsibly managed in the world.

A trip to the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market, just north of Seaport Village, confirms the present health of the fishing off San Diego’s coast. Standing behind the trays of ice that display appetizing albacore and rockfish, Kris Honing, who captains a boat that fishes the North and South Pacific, says that the fishing in San Diego has never been better. “In the 1990s, I would have to go out 800 to 1,000 miles to get the catch I now get close to shore,” he says. Other fishermen at the market echo his sentiment, waxing over their increased catches that they credit to the better science and regulation currently performed by NOAA. Talley cautions, “Despite some fish being more plentiful lately, being adaptable to changes in fish availability is a work in progress.

Fishermen need the ability to fish more opportunistically, including the ability to switch between gear types, fishing grounds, and permit types as

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fish availability changes. Our fleet as a whole has a diversity of gear types needed to adapt, but the shoreline infrastructure to support changing catch is not in place. Further, this portfolio fishing approach tends to be most challenging for small businesses that may not have the means to afford more gear, permits, and skilled labor.”

“Our fishermen want to fish what’s abundant and leave alone what is not,” continues Talley, “but they need more support, such as fishing-friendly ports, access to financial capital, and their own ownership and management of fishing quotas to make this happen.”

On Land Hannah Gbeh, executive director of the San Diego Farm Bureau, says that climate change has started to affect San Diego farms, primarily through extreme weather events, which have become more common. “Wind is a big issue now, and we now have heat waves in times of the year that before weren’t times that we would have heat waves,” she says. “The winds can blow fruits off the trees, such as avocados, citrus, or apples, and make them unmarketable. High winds also snap tree trunks and branches, which can result in significant crop or orchard losses.”

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Warmer temperatures make plants use more water, forcing farmers to change watering schedules and be even more water smart than they were before. Farmers are using banding around trees that measure the expansion and contraction of the trees’ roots, which is a way of measuring how much water the plants need. This information is then sent to the farmer’s smartphone, where the farmer can set an appropriate watering schedule for the plants. Gbeh says that farmers are similarly using smart technology for soil monitoring. “And we’ve seen a lot of farmers switch to a drip irrigation system, which can significantly reduce water use.”

Water use also contributes to climate change. In California, up to 20% of the energy used in the state is used to move and treat water; much of that energy use results in greenhouse gas emissions, so every drop of water saved equals less carbon in the air in what Gbeh describes as a “win on all sides.” More recycled water, which has a significantly lower carbon footprint than our other freshwater sources, is being sent to our local farms. (See Verifying Sources on page 41.)

As the source of 11% of greenhouse gas emissions, industrial agriculture relies on heavy tilling, which pulls carbon from the soil and releases it into the atmosphere. Ellee Igoe, co-owner of Solidarity Farms in Pauma Valley, has made the carbon

RO N A N D PAT T Y T H O M A S / I STO C K

Lake Henshaw in the Palomar Mountains is one of the main sources of raw water for the City of Escondido and San Diego’s North County. The reservoir is part of the San Luis Rey River watershed, with much of the water filling it pumped from a large inland aquifer beneath it.

Verifying Sources Upon reviewing this article prior to publication, Hannah Gbeh asks, “Is there a good source to support the statement that recycled water has a significantly lower carbon footprint than freshwater sources?”

While most readers will not jump at an occasion to peruse such reports for leisure, Paul Hormick’s response (below) presents insightful statistics that allow us to better imagine just how much water is sourced and moving throughout the Southwestern US in order to secure San Diego County’s regional water resources.

The Carbon Footprint of Water (River Network, 2009) concludes that the carbon footprint of California water, particularly Southern California water, is very high, mostly because we pump so much of it up over mountains. Pumping groundwater takes between 537 and 2,270 kWh/MG (kilowatt-hours per million gallons).

We get at least 11% of our water from the Sacramento San Joaquin River Delta. Pumping that water over the Tehachapi Pass takes 9,200 kWh/MG. We also import about half our water from the Colorado River, and pumping that water takes 6,260 kWh/MG. Desalination gives us about 10% of our water.

That is also energy-intensive. The report discloses, “The actual net energy benefit of wastewater reuse depends on the level of additional treatment needed (if any at all), the pumping costs of distributing the treated wastewater, and the energy intensity of existing freshwater sources.” So while the document can’t be cited to say “San Diego saves X amount of carbon by farmers using recycled water,” it’s safe to say that that water is not being pumped from the Colorado River or over the Tehachapi or being desalinated. The report says that recycled water, overall, uses about 15% less energy. A good guess is that for San Diego, it could be even higher.

DA N I E L PA D I L L A

sequestering no-till methods a part of her farming practice. “We were inspired by actually experiencing the effects of climate change,” she says. “We had a heat event. The temperature went up to 122°.

Everything died.”

As Igoe explains, farming soil can act like a “carbon sponge.”

As farm soil is left in a more natural state without being tilled, a community of beneficial organisms returns to the soil. The waterholding capacity of the soil also increases. For every percentage increase in the water-holding capacity of her farm’s soil, the farm’s water use is reduced by one acre-foot, the equivalent to 325,851 gallons. She says, “We’ve had some soils on the farm go from one and a half percent of water holding to seven percent. That is a lot of acrefeet of water saved.”

The greater amount of water in the soil gives the plants a fighting chance against the more extreme heat waves. The temperature at Solidarity Farms recently went to 104°, yet the plants on the farm proved to be more resilient to the heat. And more carbon in the soil reduces global warming. Igoe says, “Building topsoil is the most efficient way of drawing down greenhouse gasses.”

Ironically, climate change may help some San Diego farmers. In a scientific paper published last year, researchers looked at almonds, avocados, and oranges grown in California. Climate change is expected to reduce frost exposure for these crops by an average of 63% by 2050. Although San Diego does not experience the number of frost nights that other parts of the state experience, frost exposures here are expected to decline by even more—by 75%. This can translate into savings for the farmers because they won’t have as many nights of using smudge pots or spraying gallons and gallons of water to keep frost off their crops.

Farmers use a lot of energy running their smudge pots to heat their fields during frosts. They also fight frost by spraying water, lots of it, on their orchards. Fewer frost nights will result in millions of dollars in energy savings and tens of thousands of gallons of water saved for the counties of California that produce these crops, including San Diego County.

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Eaters

Check out the Tuna Harbor Dockside Market for fresh seafood on Saturday mornings, and refer to California Sea Grant’s Discover California Seafood resources and NOAA’s Fish Watch for additional information about sustainable seafood. caseagrant.ucsd.edu/our-work/discover-california-seafood fishwatch.gov 42

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M A R I A H E S S E , RYA N J L A N E / I STO C K

If you’re interested in reducing your carbon footprint, supporting local agriculture and locally sourced seafood is a step in the right direction. “The most environmentally friendly action that anyone can take is to purchase their food locally,” says Gbeh. “Buying locally produced food reduces vehicle miles traveled. It also means less time for that item to be refrigerated—and much of local food is bought without packaging, which takes additional greenhouse gasses to produce. And you can feel good about buying in San Diego because we are the leaders and the best when it comes to environmental sustainability. You can buy local food at farmers’ markets, and many of the local food markets label the locally sourced food.”

Dr. Talley is also upbeat in encouraging locally sourced seafood and encourages consumers to be flexible when they enjoy something from our local catch. She says, “Embrace the variability in our local seafood selection! Be willing to eat with the season and whatever other conditions the ocean presents to us.

Seasons, longer-term warm and cold ocean water phases, and regulations implemented to protect fishery stocks all result in catch and, therefore, local seafood selection varying with time—and sometimes in unexpected ways. Adaptable buying practices will support adaptable fisheries.”

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What a Centenarian Eats To celebrate Deborah Szekely’s 100th birthday on May 3, 2022, we had a chat about our favorite topic: food.

What are you interested in eating lately?

My meals are very simple with not much variation. Breakfast is usually a slice of toast with orange marmalade and decaf coffee. A salad with different greens, tomato, radish, cucumber, olives, and feta cheese makes lunch. For dinner, I eat steamed veggies and some sort of protein like eggs, fish, or shrimp three times per week, or sometimes just a baked potato or sweet potato with cottage cheese.

As a treat, I may order a pasta dish when I’m out and always bring half of it home for leftovers the next day. I also enjoy pad Thai with shrimp from Saffron and get it almost weekly, again only eating half so meals out are always twice the value.

in season—fresh, raw, organic fruits and vegetables.

Where do you like to frequently shop?

I go to the Hillcrest Farmers’ Market on Sundays with my helper and pick up fresh fruits and veggies for the week. I try to eat only organic, hormone-free, non-GMO, and pesticide-free foods.

What are the staples that are always in your fridge or pantry?

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Seasonal fruits and veggies

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Always blueberries

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Russet and sweet potatoes

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Tomatoes

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Watermelon (when in season)

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Assorted olives

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Prunes (a healthy snack)

What are your essential kitchen tips, shortcuts, and tools?

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Walnuts

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Matzo and soda crackers

I no longer cook, but my best kitchen tip is to shop frequently and eat what’s

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Cottage cheese, feta cheese, real butter (Calcium is very important at my age.)

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Decaffeinated Earl Grey tea (I avoid caffeine.)

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Dark chocolate (I enjoy the French custom of having a small piece of dark chocolate after dinner.)

What do you have in your fridge that might surprise someone?

It’s more of what I don’t have in my fridge!

I don’t use salad dressing.

What steps do you take to support a sustainable food system, and why are these values important to you?

I buy local, in-season products in small quantities, only what I need so that items in my fridge or pantry don’t sit around and diminish in nutrition. I’m very aware of the time it takes for my food to get from garden to table to my stomach. Freshness is important. When I was raising my children, we had a small garden so we always had just-picked produce.

Deborah Szekely is an American philanthropist and the co-founder of Rancho La Puerta in Tecate, Mexico, a destination resort lauded and recognized around the world as the progenitor of the modern wellness resort and spa movement. She later opened the Golden Door Luxury Resort & Spa in San Marcos and the New Americans Museum in Liberty Station, and she has been extensively active in civic and charitable affairs. Most recently she authored a book, 100 ​​ Lessons from a Grasshopper, benefiting Our Green Umbrella, a long-term tree-planting and growing campaign in Tecate honoring Szekely’s 100th birthday.

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Takeaway |

Local Catch Guide

With an ocean, lakes, and rivers to fish from, San Diego’s fishing offers the full array of angling experiences

BY J U L I E P E N D R AY

Four healthiest saltwater fish To learn about the four healthiest fish to catch and eat in San Diego, check out guidelines from Scripps Associated Medical Groups (scrippsamg.com). These fish are yellowfin tuna, California yellowtail, Pacific rockfish, and California halibut.

Yellowfin tuna, also known as ahi tuna, is common here. It has a mild flavor and firm texture and can be prepared raw (as sashimi) or grilled, seared, or baked. Great toppings include bacon, sprouted greens, or a spicy sauce. If you are dealing with raw fish, it’s important to adhere to health guidelines to prevent illness.

California yellowtail can grow to seven feet long and 90 pounds because they’re so smart they can outwit humans. They won’t take just any bait; if you manage to hook one, get ready for a battle. You’ll need your protein after that. Look forward to 43 grams of it, with only 10 grams of fat per serving, which means it’s a good hearthealthy choice. Yellowtail is a slightly sweet, oily fish, so rather than frying, it’s better to bake, poach, barbecue, broil, or smoke.

Pacific rockfish, also called Pacific snapper, can be one of the easiest fish to prepare and it’s also readily found in West Coast stores. A slightly flaky and sweeter fish, it’s best baked, sautéed, or broiled with a little lemon and butter, plus salt and pepper. It is also a good source of selenium and vitamin D. California halibut, a groundfish, is mild and can be cooked however you like it. Its firm flesh makes it a good choice to serve in tacos.

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Freshwater fishing Bass, trout, catfish, and other species can be found in reservoirs within the City of San Diego.

For more information, go to sandiego.gov/reservoirs-lakes.

Fishing Resources It can be complex to learn how to legally fish at any given time of year. California Department of Fish and Wildlife offers information on seasons, licenses, permits, and limits at wildlife.ca.gov.

For great photos of catches and a wealth of information including local conditions, fishing derbies, charter boats, bait, tackle, and more, visit sandiegofishreports.com.

T H O M A S D E W E V E R / I STO C K

Y

ou can get your omega-3s and lean protein by buying seafood at a store or fish mart. But how about catching it yourself? San Diego is known for having some of the most diverse saltwater fishing in the world, as well as more than 20 freshwater lakes, plus river and pier opportunities. The fresh air, relaxation, and camaraderie of other people hoping to reel in the big one can be a tonic. Be careful to follow the rules, though, if you want to actually land that fish on your plate. Find additional resources for licenses, limits, and more information below.

An aerial view of Lake Miramar, known by local freshwater anglers for catching largemouth bass.

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Summer Advertisers Guide Join the local food movement by patronizing the outstanding businesses that support Edible San Diego in producing award-winning stories, recipes, and videos about healthy living in San Diego County.

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