Edible San Diego - Winter 2010 Issue

Celebrating San Diego’s local foods, season by season • No. 11 • Winter 2010

Holiday gifts Seasonal Cocktails Local Cheese Urban Farm Queen of Farmers’ Markets

Suzie’s Farm CSA Program & Local, Organic Food

Y

ou already eat organic. Get with the program and eat organic and local. Suzie’s Farm CSA weekly and bi-weekly programs have 14 convenient pick-up locations, and we’re always adding more.

When it comes to planting, we’re not afraid to get our hands dirty. We’ve planted over 100 varieties at our farm in San Diego’s Border Field State Park. You can experience this bounty in every Suzie’s Farm CSA box or visit us at one of the local San Diego farmers’ markets. At the markets, you can hand select our veggies and greens, as well as our fine and fancy sprouts, microgreens, edible flowers, and wheatgrass all unique to our farm. That takes some real ingenuity if we do say so ourselves. When it comes to green thumbs, we have all our digits on the earth‘s pulse.

If you are a San Diego chef, what are you waiting for? We have ample land to custom grow (in fact, we already do) and we deliver in San Diego five days a week. Plus, we have the distinction of growing your everyday go-to crops as well as speciality produce. You can find us the way that ever everyone does these days on our website suziesfarm.com, but if you want to talk to the person that drives the tractor, call us at 619-662-1780.

619.662.1780 | suziesfarm.com | sungrownorganics.com

winter 2010

CONTENTS

Publishers’ Note

2

Notable Edibles

3

In Season Interview: Chef Patrick Ponsaty

7

Liquid Assets: Warding off bad spirits 9

Farming in the Unlikeliest of places 14

An eye on the present 16

Real American Cheese 20

Queen of cornucopias plays the markets—and

everyone wins 22

Just Down the Road 26

Doing it Right: The Dog 31

Edible San Diego Gift Guide 32

How Sweet it is 34

Eat Drink Local Guide 36

Advertisers Directory 39

San Diego Faces Agricultural Quarantine

40

Farmers’ Markets 41

Cover photo by Chris Costa winter 2010

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Publishers’ note

T

his is our one-year anniversary issue, our fifth issue since taking over the reins in August, 2009. We’re a little too busy to celebrate, but with the holidays upon us and a new year fast approaching, it is a good time to reflect. It has been a joy and a challenge.

First the challenges. Although the magazine is almost universally loved and applauded, the economy has made it hard to grow as fast as we had hoped. But growth in advertising and subscriptions, though slow, has been steady. So we are thankful to be in the black, and hopeful that the recent signs of economic growth are harbingers of the rising tide that floats all boats.

CONTRIBUTORS

The joys! So many new tastes, events, experiences, ideas, and especially new friends. San Diego County is rich ground for Edible San Diego. We have over 50 farmers’ markets a week. We have more small farms and more small organic farms than any county in the nation, and produce is grown and harvested here year round. More and more restaurants are going to a seasonal menu, untying their talented chefs from a fixed menu to create new dishes from the freshest ingredients available. Pastured, humanely raised meat is here to stay. Artisan foodmakers have tables at every farmers’ market and shops all over the county. We are craft beer central. We have a fledgling wine making industry, and a mature and thriving one just north of us in Temecula. We are blessed to have so many people in San Diego County who are choosing to eat locally and sustainably, and that trend will only grow.

All in all, we have a lot to be thankful for: our faithful subscribers (thank you for resubscribing!), over 6,700 Facebook friends and fans (growing by a dozen a week or more), advertisers who get it, and a loyal group of exceptionally talented writers and photographers who contribute because they believe in us and the local, sustainable food movement. At the 37th Annual Excellence in Journalism Awards in October, Caron Golden and Candice Woo tied for first and Brandon Hernandez tied for second place in the “Magazines: Food” category for articles appearing in Edible San Diego!

Christine Anderson Derrick Chinn Chris Costa Jean Courtney Riley Davenport Dhanraj Emanuel Brandon Hernández Brook Larios Lauren Duffy Lastowka Jessica Lee Maria Desiderata Montana Jay Porter Vincent Rossi Susan Russo Matt Steiger Carole Topalian

PUBLISHERS Riley Davenport John Vawter

EDITOR Lauren Duffy

COPY EDITOR Doug Adrianson

DESIGNER Riley Davenport

We are looking forward to our second year, filled with challenges new and old, and the prospect of building the magazine into an even more trusted source of information and delight for our readers.

COVER PHOTO Chris Costa Edible San Diego P.O. Box 83549 San Diego, CA 92138 619-222-8267 info@ediblesandiego.com www.ediblesandiego.com

Riley Davenport and John Vawter

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Subscribing online is easy at ediblesandiego.com.

Or send your information (name, street address, city, state and zip code) and check made payable to Edible San Diego to the address below.

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NOTABLE EDIBLES Ballast Point Brewery Celebrates 14 Years With an Indigenous Ale Jack White founded Ballast Point Brewery in 1996, in the early stages of the craft beer movement in San Diego. Fourteen years later, thanks to head brewer Yuseff Cherney and specialty brewer Colby Chandler, the brewery has developed multiple awardwinning beers that cover a broad spectrum of tastes.

Kumeyaay people.

The brewery is well know for their “fish” series of beers: Big Eye IPA, Black Marlin Porter, Calico Amber Ale, Wahoo Wheat and Head brewer Yuseff Cherney and specialty brewer Colby Chandler their gateway brew, Yellowtail Pale Ale. Seasonal brews include Sculpin IPA and Dorado Double To celebrate their 14th anniversary, Chandler IPA, both well-loved by hopheads. Then conceived and brewed a unique special there’s the brewery’s special releases, beers release: a San Diego indigenous ale. His brewed in smaller batches that often push inspiration was Juan Cabrillo’s landing the boundaries of traditional styles. Victory at Ballast Point in 1542, aboard the San at Sea Imperial Porter, for example, is Salvador. He included ingredients that made with Café Calabria coffee and aged Cabrillo would have had on board his ship, as in charred oak rum barrels. My personal well as ingredients available to the indigenous favorite is the toasty Sextant Oatmeal Stout.

The San Salvador Saison contains manzanita berries, wild elderflowers and white sage, which Chandler personally harvested in Warner Springs. It also contains (home) smoked pine nuts, domestic red wheat and corn, and sage honey from Lakeside. It is an incredible brew.

The beer is red-brown and aromatic, redolent of hiking through San Diego’s backcountry. The flavor is complex but well balanced, with subtle hints of honey, pepper, sage and toasted nuts. Sadly, the test run was only 100 gallons, but Chandler assured me they have some in reserve and will brew it again. If you’re nifty enough to come upon it at the tasting room, don’t pass it by.

—Matt Steiger

This little piggy went to market...

Bringing fresh local and sustainable food to the street is not beyond the far reaching scope of Deborah Scott and the renowned Cohn Restaurant Group. Chop Sooey, the company’s first food cart, made its debut with a locally sourced menu at the Wounded EOD Warrior Appreciation Party at Liberty Station on October 10. Not heretofore known for their emphasis on locally sourced fare, this is a very welcome addition to their offerings.

Keep your eyes open for it at Catt White’s Little Italy, Adams Avenue and North Park farmers’ markets. According to Scott, partner and executive chef of four of the Cohn restaurants and now Chop Sooey, they will be sourcing from the market vendors for the truck. Roasted chilies, greens, fish, cheese, and produce of all kinds will come from the markets’ vendors, including Suzie’s Farm, Connelly Farms and Peterson’s. The pork will be Berkshire free range and fish will be Marine Stewardship Counsel approved.

Looks like it will be another great reason to make a ritual of farmers’ market shopping.

— ­ Riley Davenport

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Thanks and Farewell to La Milpa Organica We regretfully report the closing of La Milpa Organica farm, purveyors of local, sustainable, and organic produce. In September founder Barry Logan closed the farm after seven years. Logan described closing as “agonizing; it is a personal tragedy, a loss to the San Diego community and a diminution of local food security.”

The story of La Milpa is familiar to most readers. The 12-acre plot, nestled in the rolling hills of Escondido, held a variety of crops, pens for chickens and goats and 30 rescued bee colonies. For the past few years La Milpa hosted a monthly gathering featuring wood-fired pizza, a potluck and a movie shown under an enormous oak tree at the farm. In September, Logan announced that that month’s gathering would be his farewell.

Logan cites multiple reasons for leaving, including the difficulty in competing with large-scale farms. “Agriculture has always been a low return-on-investment activity; large farms have economies of scale working for them. Just a few dollars per acre profit make large-scale farms workable.”

Even more difficult are new regulations facing small farms. In 2007, California’s Department of Industrial Relations formed the Economic Employment and Enforcement Coalition (EEEC). For many years, small farms have relied on student labor to stay afloat. The EEEC is insisting that these interns be treated as employees, with proper wages and insurance. Fines have been levied against many small farms, including La Milpa.

Several hundred people attended La Milpa’s farewell gathering. The tone was emotional yet upbeat. There was talk of where future meetings would be held. In his farewell address, Logan urged us to set priorities as a society for where our food comes from and who controls it.

We at Edible San Diego salute Barry Logan and La Milpa farm for all they’ve done to promote local and sustainable food in our community.

—Matt Steiger

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Chia sprouting in San Diego Who would think that a juice drink afloat with little blobby things could be so tasty and, well, good for you?

Local organic farmer turned entrepreneur Janie Hoffman does.

At least when those little blobby things are organic chia seeds floating in organic juices.

Searching to find a diet that would help heal her own health challenges, Janie discovered and fell in love with the tiny but mighty chia seed. Soon she was putting chia in everything edible, but it was her beverage experiments that found favor with her friends and family. So in 2009 she established Mamma Chia, a line of organic, chia-based health drinks.

Janie’s own experience with chia makes her a passionate advocate for its health properties.

She battled an autoimmune disease that is now in remission and she and her family (and probably everyone she knows) have more energy and vitality, which she attributes to chia.

Through Mamma Chia, Janie hopes to spread the word about the health benefits of chia.

But she also hopes to promote the agendas of Slow Money and environmental stewardship.

Mamma Chia has met the environmental and social criteria to become a certified B Corporation, is a member of 1% for the Planet and is a member of Slow Money Alliance.

The Yellow Deli & Morning Star Ranch In San Diego’s thriving local food scene, the Yellow Deli stands out as perhaps the only establishment run by a commune. The Vista-based restaurant is in fact an outreach of the Twelve Tribes, an international religious “commonwealth” with two communities in San Diego County.

Contrary to what you might expect, visitors to the deli are not openly exhorted to join the community. Rather, patrons easily settle into the rustic surroundings, which include handcrafted booths and wrought-iron accents. The simple menu features crisp salads, generous sandwich fixings piled between slices of warm bread, honey-sweetened cheesecake and cookies and fruity drinks made with yerba mate grown by an affiliated Twelve Tribes community in Brazil.

In addition to running the Yellow Deli, which opened in February, the community grows heirloom grapefruit, avocados, squash, tomatoes, persimmons and lettuce on their 66-acre ranch in Valley Center. Morning Star Ranch is entirely organic, partly out of the community’s spiritual mission to care for the earth. Kevin Carlin, who joined the Twelve Tribes 28 years ago, explains, “American agriculture has depleted the soils of their value and the food’s not really nutritious.

You can only be critical for so long until you do something constructive.”

Though the community does not eschew technology, they do perform most of the farm work by hand, including the planting of 2,000 heads of lettuce every other week, a task that involves the whole community.

The Yellow Deli 315 East Broadway Vista Village Vista, California 92084 (760) 631-1888

The yellow roadside farm stand near the entrance to Morning Star Ranch is hard to miss, but you can also find the Twelve Tribes at the Ocean Beach, La Jolla, Leucadia and Escondido farmers’ markets. As for the Yellow Deli, it uses produce from Morning Star Ranch as much as possible and even hosts a small farmers’ market on Wednesday afternoons. Just don’t show up on a Saturday; the Yellow Deli is open 24 hours a day during the week but is closed from 3pm Friday through noon Sunday.

—Christine Anderson

Mamma Chia beverages aren’t sourced or produced locally (local chia seeds aren’t available); however, the company is based here in San Diego and the products are certified organic.

You can find Mamma Chia in four flavors at Barons, Jimbo’s, Whole Foods Markets and Fraser Farms. ­— Riley Davenport winter 2010

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IN SEASON INTERVIEW

In Season with

Chef Patrick Ponsaty

By Maria Desiderata Montana

W

hether paired with chestnuts for a creamy and savory soup or puréed to accompany a game bird, Chef de Cuisine Patrick Ponsaty of Mistral, the signature restaurant at Loews Coronado Bay Resort, believes root vegetables are fantastic with a wintery dish.

“I start planning about a month before the winter, then I start looking around to find the right farm for the right produce,” he says.

“Some of my favorites are black trumpet mushrooms, turnips and celery root,” he says of this season’s vegetables.

A fifth-generation French chef, Ponsaty’s culinary career started in his father’s restaurant, where as a child he developed fond memories of homey French cuisine simmering in the kitchen. “My father used to own a restaurant called Cochon de Lait and his specialty was the Cassoulet, a tarbais bean stew with pork sausage, duck confit and pork belly that was a perfect dish at 5am after a long party in the discothèque,” he says.

Ponsaty likes to improvise with new entrees at the last minute, using his most treasured kitchen tools: a knife and a sauce spoon.

Food finds from his personal visits to farmers’ markets as well as Loews’ onsite organic garden allow Ponsaty to change the menu seasonally and offer nightly specials highlighting a special treasure. “It’s important to make sure the produce I choose matches well with the main ingredient, typically some kind of protein and/or meat,” he says. “I also try to maximize the use of the produce by cooking or serving using different methods, such as raw, cooked, braised, steamed or poached.”

Don’t miss Ponsaty’s special seared venison loin with braised root vegetables and poivrade chocolate sauce as well as locally caught seafood, fresh pasta and risotto. Other distinct cuisine options for the winter season include stuffed squab with foie gras, braised Savoy cabbage with Szechwan peppercorn sauce, cassoulet and wild boar stew with celery root mousse and juniper berry sauce.

Influenced by years of extensive training in kitchens around the world, Ponsaty brings 30 years of experience and a cumulative 15 Michelin stars to his role as chef de cuisine of Mistral. He has earned an impressive list of awards and recognitions, including “Best Hotel Chef in America” from the James Beard Foundation and “Best Young Chef in Spain” from the Spanish Culinary Council.

“I want to share my passion and experience with future chefs, constantly training and refining their skills,” he says.

Maria Desiderata Montana is a published author and award-winning food and wine journalist based in San Diego. She is the owner of San Diego Food Finds and is the Food and Wine Editor of Ranch and Coast Magazine, a luxury lifestyle San Diego publication. Maria gained an appreciation of European cuisine from her parents who were born and raised in Calabria, Italy.

Visit her website at www. sandiegofoodfinds.com.

Food photography by Dhanraj Emanuel

Dining overlooking San Diego Bay

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Chestnut and Porcini Soup Makes 5-6 servings

Procedure: 1 yellow onion, medium dice 2 tablespoons olive oil

1. In a medium stockpot, sweat onions in olive oil until translucent, then add chopped garlic and thyme.

2. Add ⅓ of mushrooms and cook them until sweated out. Repeat with the next ⅓ and the next ⅓ until all mushrooms are cooked.

2 cloves garlic, diced 1 bouquet thyme 1 pound porcini mushrooms, cleaned and quartered 1 pound white mushrooms, cleaned and quartered 4 ounces white wine

3. Once mushrooms have evaporated and have started to caramelize, deglaze with white wine.

4. After all alcohol in wine has evaporated add chestnuts. Cover with chicken stock and season with salt and pepper.

5. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. Cook for 30–45 minutes.

6. Remove from heat and add truffle oil.

9 ounces chestnuts

7. Place small amounts in a blender, add a splash of cream each time and blend until smooth.

42 ounces chicken stock Salt and pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon black truffle oil 4 ounces heavy cream

8. Repeat this process until all is blended. Use a whisk to mix all the batches together.

9. Check for seasoning and serve hot. Garnish with cilantro if desired.

1 sprig cilantro, for garnish

Food photography by Dhanraj Emanuel

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Braised Short Ribs Serves 6 3 pounds boneless beef short ribs 2 liters Burgundy or other red wine 6 ounces onions, medium dice 6 ounces carrots, medium dice ½ bunch fresh thyme 1 ounce black peppercorns 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 3 ounces tomato paste 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

2. Preheat the oven to 350. Remove and separate the beef, wine, and vegetables. Bring the wine to a boil to remove impurities.

3. Season and sear the beef in batches on both sides in a large pan. Once all the beef is seared, remove fat from the pan. Deglaze with the marinated vegetables and add the chopped garlic.

4. Add the tomato paste and caramelize well. Add the porcini mushrooms.

5. Deglaze with the port wine and add the strained, boiled red wine and ½ bottle Port wine the veal stock. Return the beef to the pan in an orderly fashion. Cover Procedure: with red wine and a little water if 1. Marinate the beef in the red wine needed. Bring to a boil, cover, then with the onion, carrot, thyme and transfer to the oven. Cook for 4 black peppercorns overnight. hours, adding water if needed.

1 liter veal stock

Veal Sweet Breads Serves 6

Procedure:

3 pounds veal sweetbreads

1. Place sweetbreads in a large stockpot and cover with cold water. Add salt and bring to a boil.

½ cup flour 1 tablespoon oil 3 ounces bacon, small dice 6 ounces Spanish onions, medium dice 6 ounces carrots, medium dice 1 tablespoon chopped garlic 1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms 6 ounces Madeira wine 2 liters veal stock Zest of 1/4 orange 1 sprig thyme 1 sprig parsley 1 bay leaf

2. Cool and press in a perforated hotel pan. Refrigerate overnight.

3. Cut sweetbreads into 2-inch pieces, discarding extra fat. Dredge pieces in flour and set aside.

4. Heat oil in a large stew pot, brown sweetbread pieces. Place on a rack to remove any excess fat.

5. In the same pan, add the bacon, then onion, carrot, and garlic.

Cook until onions are translucent.

6. Add the porcini mushrooms, then deglaze with the Madeira wine.

7. Add the veal stock, orange zest, and herbs. Bring to a boil, then cover and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1 hour, until sweetbreads are tender.

8. Remove veal and serve; reserve liquid.

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edible San Diego

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Photography by Jessica Lee

By Brandon Hernández

WARDING OFF BAD SPIRITS

Liquid Assets Mixologist Ian Ward shares recipes for seasonal holiday cocktails

I

t may not snow in San Diego, but that doesn’t keep locals from craving warming cocktails during the holiday season. In search of some liquid winter comfort, we sat down with one of our region’s most up-andcoming mixologists: Ian Ward of the Snake Oil cocktail consulting firm.

Ward started his career in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, about seven years ago.

“I was managing a bar under Chef Massimiliano Bartoli,” says Ward, who cites Bartoli’s influence as quintessential. “He taught me everything I know about the importance of quality ingredients.” Ward applied his lessons learned on the East Coast after making his cross-country pilgrimage to his new home in America’s Finest City, where he went for it full throttle and hasn’t slowed down since.

His name first surfaced in local mixology circles when he took up the mixologist post at

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Whisknladle in La Jolla. Here, he rose to cult fame behind a stable of unique adult beverages concocted with house-infused liquors and mixers made from in-season edibles. Though he’s moved into consulting, infused spirits and homespun mixers are still his specialty.

Friends & Family

Quality ingredients are key to Ward’s San Diego–centric tipples. He frequents a number of local farms and farmers’ markets to ensure he’s getting the freshest, highest-quality ingredients.

Among them, Ward notes several favorites: “We turn to our friends over at Crow’s Pass and Suzie’s Farm for [a lot of ] our produce and I usually grab a ton [of ingredients] from the Ocean Beach Farmers’ Market.”

In a Collins glass filled with ice, add 1oz gin of your choice, 1oz unsweetened cranberry juice (we use R.W. Knudsen Just Cranberry), and fill the rest of the glass with a dry pear hard cider. Stir, grate nutmeg on top, and garnish with candied cranberry lollipop.

He also uses the brand new (and quite delicious) rum introduced by the award-winning distillers at Ballast Point Brewing Company whenever possible. The easiest place to find this highly refined spirit is at local Beverages & More.

If you’re looking for more cocktail tips or simply some quaffable holiday cheer, the easiest place to find this rolling stone of a mix-master is behind the bar at Searsucker in the Gaslamp Quarter or at any of the events put on by his buddies at Cooks Confab.

In light of the holidays, Ian Ward shares drink recipes that will hit the spot through New Year’s.

Brandon Hernández is a native San Diegan with a passion for the culinary arts and the local dining scene. He has been featured numerous times on the Food Network hit program Emeril Live, regularly contributes to over a dozen national and local magazines, newspapers and online outlets and has authored and co-authored several cookbooks. Follow him at twitter.com/ offdutyfoodie or drop him a line at deepcrimson2008@gmail.com.

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Yield: 1 cocktail 1 oz gin 1 oz unsweetened cranberry juice Dry pear hard cider Cranberry lollipop (recipe follows)

Candied Cranberry Lollipop 2 drops India Tree red food coloring 1 cup sugar 1 cup water Fresh cranberries Powdered sugar In a mixing glass, add 2 drops of red food coloring, 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water. Mix until all is combined­— should be about the consistency of wet sand.

Place mixture in a pot and, using a thermometer, heat until sugar mixture hits 320 degrees. Be very careful, hot sugar can be very dangerous. Try not to allow sugar to collect on the inside of the pot: it will most likely ruin the candy. Once sugar heats to 320 degrees, remove from heat. Separately, while sugar is heating, wash and dry cranberries on a paper towel. Run a skewer through them. Once sugar is hot and removed from stove, dip cranberries in the sugar, twirling off any excess. Remember the sugar is VERY HOT. Place cranberries on a piece of parchment paper and dust with powdered sugar.

Keep refrigerated and try to use within a week.

Note: India Tree is an organic supplier whose red food coloring comes from beet juice.”

Peter Rabbit Yield: 1 cocktail 1 ½ oz Pimm’s 1 oz basil lemon juice ½ oz simple syrup Pickled carrot Combine all ingredients in a Boston shaker, shake, and strain into a rocks glass filled with ice. Spear a pickled globe carrot and lay across lip of glass.

Take a large basil leaf and place it flat in the palm of one hand, clap the other hand over leaf to release oils and aroma. Fold leaf in half and slide down inside of glass so it’s just peaking one third of the way out.

Basil Lemon Juice Fresh press 4 cups of lemon juice and strain, combine lemon juice with 3 oz. of fresh clean basil leaves in a blender, blend on high for 1 minute.

Pickled Globe Carrots 1 lb globe carrots 1 lemon ⅔ cups water

Slice the lemon into thin slices and remove the seeds.

In a large stockpot combine the water, vinegar, salt, pepper, and mustard seed.

Place the mixture over high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and add the carrots and sliced lemons. Allow to simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the stove, cover with a clean towel, and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour the carrots and brine into a large container, keep them completely submerged. Seal with a lid, label, date and store in fridge for three days.

2 cups white vinegar 1 ⅓ cups sugar ⅔ cups salt ½ cups mustard seed pinch white pepper Remove the carrot tops leaving 1” of the green carrot top intact. Wash and scrub the carrots thoroughly to remove all dirt. Leave the tiny carrots whole; cut small carrots in half length wise, being careful not to lose the green top or root tip on either half. The medium carrots, cut in fourths lengthwise taking the same care to keep the tops and tails.

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Farming in the Unlikeliest of Places

By Vincent Rossi

T

hat’s Swiss chard,” said Paul Reeb, pointing to a patch of ground running around the edge of a swimming pool.

“And next to it are heirloom radishes.”

The vegetables Reeb is referring to are the seasonal crop of Point Loma Farm, a small urban farm in a somewhat unusual setting.

What Reeb calls the “edible landscape” encompassing the pool is part of a terraced hillside behind his mother’s home. Reeb has in effect turned his mother’s backyard—not quite one acre—into an urban farm that has supplied an abundance of produce and wine to his family for almost seven years.

For the past two years, Point Loma Farm has also been supplying fresh-picked

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Reeb has in effect turned his mother’s backyard—not quite one acre— into an urban farm that has supplied an abundance of produce and wine to his family for almost seven years. organic produce to Tender Greens, a restaurant in Liberty Station, just down the canyon and across the street.

On an overcast September day, Reeb cautioned that the farm is in transition from the mostly picked summer crops to those planted to reach full bloom in the fall.

“Everything you see is ‘in-between.’”

The soil to the right of the radishes is lined with zucchini and squash in the summer, he said. Over in another section, bare wooden stakes in the ground held artichokes in

the spring. Reeb noted one stake that still held a tall but dried-up looking plant with a thistle-like flower. Reeb said it was a cardoon, a type of artichoke from southern Italy. The stalk is eaten, rather than the flower, he said. He then pointed to a small shoot of green growing up from the brown base of the plant, new growth that will culminate in the spring.

He grows several French and Italian varieties for his family’s own use, Reeb said.

Photography by Chris Costa

A family affair Reeb has a graphic arts business that he calls his day job, “but I’ve always had a garden.” His own home is nearby. His son Steve, who farms the land with him, also lives nearby. Steve is studying to be an emergency medical technician, but he has a degree in environmental studies from UC Santa Cruz and shares his father’s passion for growing things.

The property has been in Reeb’s family since 1965. The house was built in 1937, and the original owners had terraced the hillside. Seven years ago, when Reeb decided to undertake farming, the property was covered with trees. He pointed out some Brazilian pepper trees near the top of the hill, remnants of a larger population he and Steve had to clear to allow more sunlight to penetrate for the crops.

Half- and quarter-trunks of those felled trees can now be seen serving as edging, separating some rows of crops from a picnic bench where Reeb and his family like to come out to relax.

“We try to use everything,” he said.

He started out planting grapevines. He then added tomatoes and lettuces. Other crops soon followed.

“ There’s a whole line of restaurants doing what we do. And San Diego has so many great farms. Of course, not many of them have one so close as we do with Point Loma. We’re only two blocks away.”

Pete Balistreri, Tender Greens “It’s a learning process as to what grows best,” said Reeb, adding that the light in the canyon was great for growing things.

Reeb made it very clear that he grows for taste, not looks. “I only grow heirloom tomatoes and lettuces.”

He grows over 30 different varieties of heirloom tomatoes, including Abe Lincoln, Dr. Wyche, German Pink, Hillbilly and Black Krim.

“I try to work in seasonal things. These are the last of the tomatoes,” he said, pointing to a few plants still yielding their fruit amid budding rows of Swiss chard, spinach and cilantro, “all fall stuff.”

Down the canyon and across the street to Tender Greens

Tender Greens salad of Point Loma Farm greens

Two years ago, as Reeb was contemplating selling some of his produce to local restaurants, Tender Greens opened nearby.

Said Paul Reeb of his relationship with Balistreri: “I grow it. He creates something people love to eat with it.”

Reeb brought some samples of his crops to the restaurant.

“We try to support the farm in its entirety,” said Balistreri, who partners with a number of farms from Ramona to Oxnard to offer his patrons locally, sustainably grown food picked at the peak of freshness.

“I was impressed,” said Tender Greens Executive Chef Pete Balistreri. “I was even more impressed when I visited the farm.”

One of the things that impressed Balistreri was the pond by the farm’s greenhouse. Built

by Paul and Steve as part of a sustainable irrigation/fertilization system, the pond is stocked with bluegills and crayfish. Scraps from the Reebs’ table, which come from the farm’s produce, are fed to the pond-dwellers, who then generate nitrogen which is carried through the irrigation system into the greenhouse. Any runoff from the irrigation in turn flows back to the pond.

The first contact between Tender Greens and Point Loma Farm spawned a relationship that continues with weekly deliveries from the farm to the restaurant year-round.

Paul Reeb in the canyon vinyard

“We use everything that he brings us,” said Balistreri. “His heirloom tomatoes are really wonderful. His micro greens are very good.

He brings us nice cippollina onions.”

Does he see this local farm/restaurant partnership model as a trend in San Diego?

“I think it’s probably past the trend point,” Balistreri said. “There’s a whole line of restaurants doing what we do. And San Diego has so many great farms. Of course, not many of them have one so close as we do with Point Loma. We’re only two blocks away.”

Vincent Nicholas Rossi is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in both newspapers and magazines including the San Diego UnionTribune, the San Jose Mercury News, and Westways Magazine. With his wife Peggy, a professional genealogist, Vincent co-owns StorySeekers, a publisher of family history, memoir, and autobiographical books. His special interests are history, politics, and culture. His Italian-American heritage has spurred an appreciation of the interrelationship between culture and food.

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An Eye on the Present Local artisans share recipes for gift-able homemade edibles

by Brandon Hernández The holidays can be a mixed bag. On one hand, you’ve got grandiose feasts, bright lights, cutesy decorations and good will towards men. On the other, you’ve got crowded malls, charge card abuse and the obligation of being nice to people you can’t stand the other 11 months of the year. But praise be to the reason for the season! There’s one saving grace: presents!

Nothing says I love you like the kind of present you can really sink your teeth into.

But nobody’s a fan of the regifted fruitcake or the leftover box of candy canes that didn’t make it onto last year’s Christmas tree. So we reached into the goodie bags of some of our city’s most gifted and thoughtful culinary practitioners to provide you with some simple and delicious recipes for from-scratch treats that are sure to score you major points this holiday season.

Brandon Hernández is a native San Diegan with a passion for the culinary arts and the local dining scene.

He has been featured numerous times on the Food Network hit program Emeril Live and has authored and co-authored several cookbooks. You can follow him at twitter.com/offdutyfoodie or friend him at facebook.com/offdutyfoodie.

Ryan Johnston, Executive Chef • Wisknladle, La Jolla Jams and compotes are a great gift because they are the gift that keeps on giving. I like making them because it’s something you can do with your whole family. When I was a kid, my grandmother had a cabin in upstate New York and we used to go and pick berries and then make them into jams to send to cousins and aunts and uncles during the holidays. I still love making jams and giving them to people.

Mulled Cranberry Apple Compote For compote:

Peel of ½ lemon

12 ounces cranberries

Directions:

3 tart apples peeled, cored and diced (Granny Smith or Empire)

Put all mulling spices in cheesecloth.

2 cinnamon sticks

Add all ingredients in to a heavy bottomed non-reactive pot and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until most of the cranberries have burst and apples have cooked through, about ½ hour. Keep mulling spices in compote until cool and remove before serving.

2 star anise

Yield: 1 quart

2 ½ cups sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup water Pinch of salt For Mulling Spices:

6 whole cloves 3 whole allspice berries Peel of ½ orange

Photography by Riley Davenport

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Luca Banfi, Sous-Chef • Tender Greens, Point Loma When I came up with this recipe, my co-workers would always make real spicy food for us in the kitchen, trying to top each other at who could make it spicier. I thought this would go across really well with them. The sauce came out pretty spicy, but the prickly pear added a lot of sweetness to counter that. When I brought it to work, it went across real well and we ended up using most of it right away on various concoctions from tacos to pulled pork lettuce cups! I’ve used it for hot wings too.

I warm it up with a little butter—making it less spicy but quite tasty—and slather it over those wings!

Sweet & Spicy Habanero & Prickly Pear Hot Sauce 1½ cups finely chopped large yellow onion 4 stemmed, seeded and finely chopped habanero peppers 6 cloves finely chopped garlic 1 cup white wine vinegar NOTE: Prickly pears are usually available at Mexican markets like Pancho Villa’s on El Cajon Boulevard off the I-805 freeway.

2 tablespoons honey 2 cups peeled and chopped prickly pears

Add the onion, habanero, garlic, vinegar and honey to a saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the prickly pears and simmer for another 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor. Blend the mixture, then strain it into small refrigerator-safe jars. The sauce will keep, refrigerated, for up to two weeks.

Todd Allison, Executive Chef • Anthology, Little Italy Good gifts come from the heart, but I like to give gifts that also appeal to the taste buds. San Diego is a great place for produce and homemade jams are a great way to preserve the bounty of goodness even when strawberries, tomatoes or figs are out of season. When you make homemade jams or jellies, people notice the extra thought and effort. So even a small jar shows you put a lot of thought into the gift.

Tomato & Saffron Jam 3 cloves finely chopped garlic

up the tomatoes so they release their juices.

Cover and let cook, stirring occasionally to prevent it from burning, for 8 hours. Transfer to refrigerator-safe jars.

1 tablespoon toasted fennel seed 2 tablespoons saffron 2 cups dry white wine 5 pounds very ripe organic tomatoes, diced

NOTE: Have fun … this one takes a while!

2 cups organic honey Toast the garlic, fennel seed and saffon in a sauté pan over medium heat, then pour in the white wine. Transfer the mixture into a large pot over very low heat and add the tomatoes and honey. Cook, stirring constantly to break

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Mark Kropczynski, Executive Chef • US Grant Hotel, Downtown The great thing about toffee is that it seems incredibly difficult to make, but once you figure out the temperature settings and follow the recipe it’s actually very simple. The first time I tried homemade toffee, I thought to myself “This is so cool” and really wanted to learn how to do it. I started playing with some online recipes and finetuning them until I found the right guidelines. We make this at the US Grant as an in-room amenity and a take-away at various events. People love it and it has that great buttery flavor that is perfect for the holidays.

Toffee 1 cup unsalted butter 1¼ cup granulated sugar 3 tablespoons corn syrup 3 tablespoons water ¼ cup chopped almonds 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup chocolate chips

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Stir in the sugar, corn syrup and water and bring up to 300 to 310° degrees. Add the almonds and cook, stirring constantly, until the nuts are toasted and the sugar is golden. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla

Jennifer Queen, Mixologist • Proper Gastropub, East Village Making bitters is a simple process requiring patience. You need a bittering agent like gentian, quassia or even wormwood; the flavor of your choice (citrus, fruit or herbs); and alcohol with the highest proof you can

find. Then you wait for the ingredients to macerate (like marinating … the alcohol breaks down the whole ingredients). The possibilities are endless fun.

Tart Cherry & Sage Bitters 1 pound pitted cherries

½ teaspoon fennel seed

8–10 sage leaves

½ teaspoon white peppercorns

2 lemons, sliced

Bacardi 151 rum

2 orange rinds

Place all of the ingredients in a large Mason jar and pour in enough of the rum to cover. Seal the jar and let sit until the alcohol starts to break everything down and there’s noticeable sediment. Strain the liquid into a dropper bottle.

¼ cup wood chips 1 teaspoon allspice 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ teaspoon coriander seed 18

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extract. Pour the mixture into a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and sprinkle the chocolate chips evenly on top. Let cool to room temperature, then chop or use your hands to break the toffee into small pieces. Wrap with cellophane and tie with decorative ribbon.

How long to let the bitters sit before using them When working the sediment, you must agitate the mixture once a day for one week (same time every day) – and then you have to let it rest for another two weeks before straining it and using.

Where you can purchase gentian, quassia and/or wormwood Comes in liquid form and can be purchased at vitamin or health food stores or at Whole Foods.

NOTE: A little goes a long way with bitters. One to two drops can change a cocktail entirely!

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Real American Cheese The Winchester Experience

T

he neat display of porcelain cow tchotchkes is quickly overshadowed by the pungent aroma of cheese, only trumped by the table of gouda samples that could trip a person. And, without question, you know right where you are: Winchester Cheese Co., home to thousands of wheels of newborn raw gouda each week.

kangaroo rat that once made its home on the grounds. Most tools are handmade, including a guillotine-style knife used to hand-cut each block of cheese before it’s hand-wrapped. Lab results take days. Every person on staff has to taste test. Quality is imperative in an operation where even a small error could put a less organized competitor out of business.

Founded by Hollandborn Jules Wesselink at the ripe age of 69, Winchester began as one of hundreds of regional dairies, many of which have since gone under with the weight of a system that often earns dairy farmers less than their cost to operate. In 1996, Winchester became a fullfledged cheese company and now sources its milk—up to 3,000 gallons per week—from Boersma Dairy in nearby San Jacinto.

In fact, the old quantity-versus-quality debate is nowhere more poignant than in the world of cheese. Artisan cheese folk like Winchester use age-old processes, elevating quality above commodity because if cheese is milk’s leap toward immorality, as Clifton Fadiman once wrote, they had better make it a good one.

“It’s been very good—high quality,” says general manager Jeff Smoot, who, with his wife, Shawna, also owns Temecula Valley Cheese Co. in Old Town Temecula. Jeff, who read about Jules in several books while conceiving of the cheese shop, first visited Winchester to seek his advice. Hours later, he was offered a job on the spot. Soon after, Shawna became one of Winchester’s cheesemakers.

Winchester is a little guy in the cheese world, with vats crafted from nine converted food-hauling trailers, all built above ground because of an endangered 20

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By Brook Larios

Jules passed on over a year ago, but Winchester retains its family-run charm.

There’s no question about who is making the cheese here: Every wheel is created by either Ethan, Shawna or Thomas, the company’s three cheese-makers. With 10 employees, the company runs like butter, sending tightly wrapped portions across the nation, the largest order ever coming in at 5,000 packages. Winchester is a gouda-only operation, with each package hand-wrapped and labeled with the company’s and “Real California Cheese” logos. (Jeff says it’s one man’s job to visit all the cheesemakers to ensure that logo is on all nice and neat).

While the cheesemaking process is a local affair, one spoke in the metaphorical wheel is sourced all the way from Holland: The cultures, shipped from Gouda (pronounced Howda), Holland, where Jules lived prior to fleeing at the age of 15 after his school was bombed during World War II. Winchester Gouda appears at 35 farmers’ markets and on restaurant menus across the nation including, locally, Sea Rocket Bistro and The Linkery. The wide-reaching artisan operation remains largely sustainable.

Cheesemakers separate the whey from the curds and feed the former back to the cows.

They opt for microbial rennet over animal rennet, which is sourced from the stomachs of unweaned calves. Winchester rinds consist of vegetable fiber paste painted on with a sponge—rather than the traditional wax—and are edible. Further, nearly all lactose is removed from Winchester cheese, making it a good option for those of us too enamored with cheese to let our lactose intolerance dominate our dietary decisions.

High-quality cheese is marked by good color, flavor and texture. It’s a matter of personal taste, but Jeff looks for a moist cheese with full-throated, full-blown flavor.

Of utmost importance, he says, are milk quality and the care and handling of the 10- to 12-hour cheesemaking process: check and check to both in Winchester land.

Winchester cheeses are aged for a minimum of one month; as a rule, longer aging yields sharper cheese. Another point to note: Cheese shrinks with age.

“That’s part of the reason [Winchester Cheese] is more expensive,” says Jeff, who perhaps hasn’t recently been to a chain supermarket, where lesser cheeses aren’t exactly a bargain, sold for only a few dollars less per pound.

Winchester’s best-seller is a three-month-old charmer labeled “medium aged.” The “super aged” is aged for a year or more and bites the tongue upon contact. If you are only familiar with the flavor of smoked Gouda, you may be surprised by these nonsmoked varieties; they taste worlds different.

Brook Larios is a wordsmith whose food articles appear online and in publications across San Diego County. She pens Nibbles, a weekly column in San Diego CityBeat; The Slow Lane, a monthly food justice column in San Diego Uptown News; and regularly contributes to Edible San Diego. Brook is principal/CEO of PlainClarity Communications and she contributed to the recently published Memories of Paulo Freire. She supports local restaurants committed to sustainability as well as area growers and food purveyors that treat Earth and animal humanely. Her blog, FoodHuddle.com, is dedicated to dishing the delicious.

Winchester Cheese Co. is located at 32605 Holland Rd., Winchester. Call 951-926-4239 for more details. Visitors should call in advance to determine whether cheese is being made that day.

Why is it important to source your cheese locally?

California has lost over 100 dairies in the last year, according to Jeff. He is intimately familiar with the trials of doing the local thing. “Supporting local” isn’t just a cute mantra; it could mean the difference between disease and health, as big cases of foodborne illness are increasingly traced back to contaminants at the source.

Shockingly, one piece of cheese purchased at the market may contain milk from several different dairies, mixed together at one industrial location.

Further, milk protein concentrate (MPC) is widely used in lieu of milk in large cheese-making operations— the result of ultra-filtering milk and turning anything the size of a protein or larger into a high-protein powdery substance that even the FDA doesn’t consider milk (this excludes the vitamins and minerals regularly touted on milk labels).

And if folks at the FDA reason that MPCs are too processed for processed foods, how can we knowingly consume them, especially when alternatives like Winchester exist to buck the broken system?

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Story and photography by Susan Russo

Queen of Cornucopias According to Jerome White, the scariest sound he could hear is his wife’s voice saying: “I have an idea!”

That’s because his wife, Catt Fields White, manager of three successful San Diego farmers’ markets—the Little Italy Mercato, the North Park Farmers’ Market and the Adams Avenue Farmers’ Market—always follows through with her ideas no matter the difficulty, roadblocks or sheer madness.

“I’m a serial entrepreneur,” says Catt White, a rosy-cheeked, silverhaired 53-year-old with boundless energy. “I have a really short attention span, which keeps me moving from one project to the next,” she says. Add to that an insatiable curiosity, an outgoing personality and a healthy dose of competitiveness.

A short attention span but a long record of success Though she’s a bona fide foodie, White spent her early years writing and marketing for the criminal justice system. “I was dealing with unhappy people all the time and needed a change,” she says, “so I started writing restaurant reviews and talking with chefs and discovered I really liked them.”

The restaurant reviews led to copy-writing gigs for restaurants, restaurant management consulting, starting a restaurant trade magazine and eventually owning her own café in Phoenix, Arizona, with her husband.

Almost a decade ago, tired from the grueling hours at the café and weekends spent traveling between Phoenix and San Diego, White and her husband sold everything and moved here permanently. White 22

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When the Mercato first opened in June 2008, there were 40 vendors.

Today there are over 95. During its first few Saturdays, 500–600 market-goers showed up. Today that number is 3,500.

s Plays the Markets—and Everyone Wins expanded her trade magazine to San Diego and joined the California Restaurant Association, where she has served on the board of directors since 2006.

It was a meeting in March 2008 in front of Caffe Italia on India Street, however, that changed everything for White. A self-described “farmers’ market freak,” White was incredulous that Little Italy did not have its own market and proposed to start one. White says that a Little Italy Association board member, Marco LiMandri, told her, “There’s no room for another farmers’ market in San Diego. If you think you can do it, go ahead.”

White never met a dare she didn’t accept

foundation for a good market, and Catt understood that from the start and really built the market from that. She’s done a fantastic job.”

Unlike her days in the criminal justice system, White now spends most of her time with happy people. “Yeah, [the vendors] have to be happy,” she says with a laugh, “I really like working with happy people.”

White has achieved her goal: Just stroll through the market on any given Saturday and you’ll see vendors enthusiastically chatting with shoppers, neighbors reconnecting over a cup of coffee and kids and adults dancing to live music.

It’s not all fun

Though she lacked experience in market managing, White had a clear vision: “I wanted the Little Italy farmers’ market to be a really good urban market like the Ferry Building in San Francisco or the markets in Paris,” she says. She quickly got local chefs and farmers on board.

White’s job isn’t all about generating happiness, however. She also has the unenviable task of being the market police. “There are strict health codes, traffic issues and safety issues that have to be followed, and I’m responsible for that,” she says.

When the Mercato first opened in June 2008, there were 40 vendors.

Today there are over 95. During its first few Saturdays, 500–600 market-goers showed up. Today that number is 3,500.

Consider the second weekend in September, when I asked White how the vendors had responded to the new market layout she devised. “Oh, this was not a fun week,” she told me. “I’ve had to deal with some disgruntled vendors. It’s not the most glamorous part of the job, but it has to be done,” says White.

San Diego farmer Peter Schaner, who works with White at the Little Italy farmers’ market, views her lack of experience as her primary asset: “Her lack of knowledge of how farmers’ markets work, along with her incredible knowledge of the restaurant business, actually led her to learn all she could about farmers’ markets and how to make it as successful as possible.”

Though the Mercato sells artisan wares such as jewelry and prepared foods such as hummus, its main focus is on the produce. “I wanted this market to be about the farmers [and the] foodies who were looking for great, locally grown, farm-fresh produce,” says White.

Farmers like Schaner applaud White’s focus: “The farmers are the

“Farmers’ markets are really about customer service,” says White. “I have two clients I have to please: the farmers and vendors, and then the shoppers.” That means long days plus a hearty dose of patience, effective communication skills and creative problem solving.

Another of White’s vendors, Randy Pudwill of Pudwill Berry Farms, says, “Catt has a very realistic view of the markets and knows how to run them responsibly. She’s a fantastic lady, and I hold her in high regard.”

White’s customer service takes time. Her days usually start around 5am, with two hours spent answering 100–200 emails before

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“ But you know, farmers’ markets are not going away.

People know the difference between real food and manufactured food. Once they taste a real tomato or meat from a happy cow, they just can’t go back. So we’ve got time.”

North Park Farmers’ Market: Thursdays 3–7pm Little Italy Mercato: Saturdays 9am–1:30pm

edible San Diego

On market days White must be part manager, part mom, part therapist and part businesswoman. She is responsible for the market set-up, for dealing with no-show vendors, for resolving disputes between vendors and even for towing cars that are illegally parked. “Oh, I’ve had people come running out of their houses in their pajamas yelling at me! You have no idea the drama that goes on behind the scenes!” White says, comically criss-crossing her eyeballs.

Does she sleep? “Not much,” says White, and adds, “My husband says I’m like the [battery] bunny: I just go and go and go and go.” She works 12–14 hour days but admits, “When I get a day off, I just sleep around the clock.”

Adams Avenue Farmers’ Market: Wednesdays 3–7pm

24

responding to a dozen or more voicemails. She writes newsletters two times per week, produces a quarterly newspaper and maintains websites for each market and does 85% of the markets’ social media on Twitter and Facebook.

winter 2010

White has been working tirelessly on building the smaller Adams Avenue and North Park markets, both of which she opened in May 2010. “It’s tough. When you’re growing a market, you have to stick it out,” she says, lowering her head in disappointment. “But I don’t want to be one of those market managers who just takes [any vendor] who applies to make more money. The better thing to do is stick with the integrity of the market. I bit the bullet for the Little Italy Mercato for 10 months to maintain our standards, so I have to do the same things with these newer markets.”

Her moment of lamentation over, White’s downcast eyes suddenly flicker and she says, “But you know, farmers’ markets are not going away. People know the difference between real food and manufactured food. Once they taste a real tomato or meat from a happy cow, they just can’t go back. So we’ve got time.”

It’s easy to see why every idea is a successful idea for this woman.

For market information, newsletters, upcoming events and links to the market’s Facebook pages, visit http://www. sdweeklymarkets.com/ Susan Russo is a San Diego–based food writer, cookbook author and recipe developer. She has a nationally recognized food blog, FoodBlogga (foodblogga.blogspot.com). Susan is a regular contributor to NPR’s Kitchen Window. She has been selected “Best of the Web” by Saveur. Susan can be reached at susancrusso@gmail.com.

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Just Down the Road A Taste of History

By Jay Porter Photography by Derric Chinn

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T

his is part of us,” says Javier Plascencia, looking around at the well-dressed locals in his dining room on a Wednesday afternoon. “This is part of our history. My father’s father was a bartender here. We have to do it really good.”

Only a very special restaurant can take inspiration from its own history stretching back for generations, and given San Diego’s limited culinary record it may be surprising to find that such a restaurant exists here. However, although this restaurant has served San Diegans for over 80 years, it is not itself

San Diegan. This is the newly renovated Caesar’s, originator of the Caesar salad and proudly Tijuanan since days when French- and Italian-inspired kitchens welcomed Americans and Mexicans alike in swank dining rooms up and down Avenida Revolución.

“We rescued the Ensalada Victor,” says Plascencia. He explains that this salad was the signature dish at Victor’s Restaurant, a local institution for many years that closed a few years ago. The Victor salad derives from a Caesar salad but uses Mexican cotija cheese instead of Parmesan cheese, adds Heinz A-1 sauce to the dressing and is prepared in a cazuela (clay pot) instead of the traditional wooden bowl of the Caesar. “Only one guy made the salad there for many years, and then another guy worked with him for 15 years.

We got the second guy; he makes that salad here.” That second guy, Efraim Montoya, prepares Caesar and Victor salads to order alongside Armando Villegas, who worked at Caesar’s Restaurant in the 1980s.

More than just salads define classic Tijuana dining. Plascencia’s kitchen offers an extensive array of traditional Continental dishes such as Beef Wellington, Pulpo Gallego (a staple of Spanish cuisine, octopus with boiled potato and Spanish paprika) and escargot with olive oil, Parmesan, parsley and garlic. Particularly notable is the Italian thrust of the menu, including Milanesa a la Zingara and Chicken Cacciatore.

gastronomic wave of using local ingredients and taking a Mediterranean approach to food. “The Baja-Med movement is really strong,” says Plascencia. “Maybe more in Ensenada and the wine valley, but also here.

What I’m really happy about is that a lot of young cooks are investigating their products [i.e., ingredients].

The product is where it starts.”

Caesar’s, along with Plascencia’s other restaurants, uses 60 gallons per week of olive oil from the nearby wine valley, the Valle de Guadalupe.

Additionally, the fish and shellfish served at Caesar’s come from Mexico, whether it’s abalone from Benito Altamira’s farm in Erendira (a couple hours south of Tijuana), or local spinys served, in season only, as Lobster Thermidor.

Even the wines and beers reflect Baja’s emerging role in North American cuisine.

“Old Caesar’s was 100 percent French and Italian wines,” Chef Javier Plascencia

“Chicken Cacciatore was a dish that was really popular in Tijuana,” says Plascencia, whose father began his career working at local Italian restaurants, on his way to becoming head of the leading culinary family in the city. “The [classic Tijuana] cuisine is really influenced by Italian. If you ask a Tijuanero what their favorite food is, a lot of times they’ll say Italian.”

While Plascencia’s revival of Caesar’s incorporates the rich history of Tijuana dining, it also rides the new Baja winter 2010

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Asked about the merging of historic and modern Baja, Plascencia explains, “This is the new Caesar’s. It’s old school, but ...” his voice trails off, since the purpose of the restaurant should be obvious to any observer. “A lot of people love these old-school dishes. You can see it in their faces. We’ve had people cry because it brought back memories. This a place where people can feel happy.”

explains Plascencia. “Now it’s 95 percent Mexican. With all these things happening in the wine valley, we as restaurateurs want to feature all these wines. And they’re getting better and better every year.”

The restaurant’s beer selection includes craft selections from Mexicali’s Cucapá brewery, and even the house beer is made locally by Cerveceria Tijuana.

It’s not just Caesar’s that is breathing new life into Tijuana’s venerable center. In recent years, Sixth Street has exploded with vibrancy as the city’s young bohemians have repopulated nightspots seemingly abandoned a generation ago. Now, on weekends, stylish twentysomethings go from longtime Calle Sexta landmarks like Dandy del Sur and La Estrella to new venues such as La Mescalera and Don Loope (owned by a member of pop music’s Nortec Collective).

Caesar’s Restaurant is just steps from the intersection of Sixth and Revolución.

“My family, we were really sad it shut down,” says Plascencia, who, being a decade or two older than the current

scenesters, remembers when Avenida Revolución was a party-hearty nightclub strip before it fell out of favor in the early 1990s. “When we bought this, I’m in Tijuana, and I hadn’t stepped on Revolución in probably six years.”

If a revival of the classic venues on Revolución combines with the youth movement on Sixth Street, Tijuana’s downtown might resume its place as the most sophisticated and lively cultural district in our region. It’s a role that still resides in the cultural memory of Tijuanense.

“Families here, there’s more tradition, more continuity. Your grandfather will always be talking to you about the old days, what he ate, what restaurants or bars he went to. Stories go around.”

Jay Porter is the proprietor of The Linkery and El Take It Easy in North Park. The Linkery was named as one of the 100 Best Farm-to-Table Restaurants in America by Gourmet Magazine, October 2007, one of the 10 Top Gastropubs by Draft Magazine May/ June, 2010, and one of the Top 10 New Places for Hot Dogs by Bon Appetit Magazine, August 2009.

Getting There American tourist traffic has declined the last few years, so when you cross the border, you’ll be in good and well-regarded company. “The Americans we’re getting right now,” says Plascencia, “they’re more adventurous, they’re willing to try new things, they want to eat at good restaurants.” Fortunately, Tijuana has many such restaurants to offer, and the city is easy to visit.

the Blue Line. Connections to the rest of the trolley system are available in Downtown and Old Town.

Tijuana’s downtown, in fact, may be the most accessible part of our region, as it is well-served by San Diego’s public transportation, bicycle infrastructure and automotive facilities. Avenida Revolución is a 10-minute walk—and five-minute bike ride—from the San Ysidro crossing, making it most effective to leave your car either at home or in a parking lot near the border. It’s easy to follow the signs while hoofing it from the border to the main drag.

To bicycle, pedal to anywhere on the Bayshore Bikeway, which follows San Diego Bay from Spanish Landing to the Silver Strand. Proceed to its southeast corner, at its intersection with Main Street near I-5 in Chula Vista, by the Swiss Park & Club. From there, take the “old” bike path south to Saturn Blvd, and continue on Saturn, then turn left on Leon. Make a right on Hollister at Southwest High School, then a left on Tocayo and the first right, on Internacional/Oro Vista. Follow the yellow stripe as you wind your way through a housing development and end up making a right onto Dairy Mart Road, and then the first left onto Camino de la Plaza. That will take you past the factory outlet malls and right to the border.

Light-rail MTS Trolley service to the border is frequent and direct from Old Town, Downtown and points south along

At the border, you’ll want to walk your bike through the turnstiles (rock it back on its rear wheel if it doesn’t

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easily fit). You want the right-hand exit from the crossing plaza—don’t go where all the taxi drivers are, go to the right instead at the Tourist Information station. As you exit the second turnstiles, cross the street and go to your left, entering the shopping center there where you see the signs directing pedestrians to Centro/ Downtown. You can ride through the shopping center (watch out for the steps—use the ramps) and over the Tijuana River, proceeding directly to the arch at the north end of Revolución. From there, make your way south to Av. Revolución No. 1059, near Fifth Street.

The ride from central San Diego takes a couple hours, and you’ll probably have worked up a thirst by the time you arrive. Plascencia recommends a margarita on the rocks as being historically appropriate. “There were a lot of Americans who came here,” he says, “so this place really took pride in their margaritas.” Salud!

Eat it Now Artichokes

Chard

Okra

Asparagus

Chili Peppers

Green Onion

Avocados

Cherimoyas

Passion Fruit

Basil

Citrus

Green Peas

Green Beans

Collards

Peppers

Beets

Cucumber

Pomegranates

Broccoli

Eggplant

Potatoes

Brussels Sprouts

Medjool Dates

Spinach

Cabbage

Kale

Carambola (Star Fruit)

Kiwi

Carrots Cauliflower Celery

Kohlrabi Lettuce Mushroom Mustard

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Squash Strawberries Tomatoes Tomatillos Turnips Yams

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Plant it Now Arugula

Chicory

Onion

Beets

Endive

Parsnips

Bok Choy

Fava Beans

English Peas

Broccoli

Fennel

Snow Peas

Brussels

Garlic

Radishes

Sprouts

Kale

Rutabagas

Cabbages

Kohlrabi

Salsify

Carrots

Leeks

Spinach

Cauliflower

Lettuce

Turnips

Chard

Mustard

Farmers’ Markets Mira Mesa Mira Mesa High school 10510 regan rd.

Tuesday 3–7 p.m.

Mission Hills Falcon st. at W Washington st.

Friday 3–7 p.m. leucadia Paul ecke central school 185 union st. & Vulcan st. sunday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

858-272-7054

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Doing it Right:

The Dog

By Lauren Duffy Lastowka Let’s face it: the hot dog gets a bad rap. But it doesn’t have to. With a little preparation, some thoughtful sourcing, and a long afternoon in the kitchen, everything about the hot dog can become local, conscientious, and, well, delicious. Here’s Edible San Diego’s take on the hot dog done right.

The Bun

The Dog

Hot dog buns are often little more than soggy white bread that rarely fits the dog it holds. But as Ian Pike, head baker at The Linkery in North Park knows, hot dog buns don’t have to be meager. His take incorporates semolina flour, lending the buns a toothsome texture, a slightly tangy flavor and a soft golden color. In fact, the buns are good enough to stand alone—try serving with cheese as

Quite honestly, I’ve been a little afraid of hot dogs at times. Not only are they comprised of mystery parts, they often come from several different processors, meaning you have absolutely no idea where your food comes from. Not the case with three local hot dog producers: Brandt Beef, Homegrown Meats and Da Le Ranch all raise their own livestock and offer freshly made local hot dogs.

At Homegrown Meats you’ll get grass-fed beef hot dogs; at Da Le Ranch you’ll get a mixture of homegrown beef and pork; and at Brandt you’ll get the company’s Brawley-raised beef.

an appetizer or as sliced bread with a meal.

Recipe courtesy Ian Pike, The Linkery 4 cups semolina flour

Ketchup

2 cups regular bread flour

Store-bought ketchups are often made with high-fructose corn syrup, but you can avoid the additive by making your own. That’s what Mike and Staci Flores do at the Ritual Tavern in North Park.

Their homemade ketchup recipe takes just a few ingredients and a little time. (If you’re lacking in either, you can buy bottles of this ketchup to go at the Ritual.)

2 ½ cups water 1/3 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons salt 2 teaspoons (1 packet) instant dry yeast

Recipe courtesy of the Ritual Tavern, North Park

3 tablespoons sugar In a large bowl or stand mixer, combine the flours, water, sugar and oil and mix until forms a loose, shaggy mass. Cover and let sit for 20–30 minutes. Sprinkle salt and yeast on top of dough, and mix to combine, at a slightly faster speed than before. The dough should be pretty wet, although if you need to add a little extra flour you can. Try to keep the dough as wet as possible. Transfer to a well-oiled bowl and let rise, 40 minutes. Turn out the dough onto a floured countertop and knead by hand. Form into a ball and return to the bowl; let rise for 45 more minutes. Slice the dough into four-ounce pieces and form each piece into long, slender rolls (or whatever shape you like). Let stand until doubled in size, then bake at 425° for 10 minutes.

¼ cup tomato paste ¼ cup distilled white vinegar 2 tablespoons water 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon sugar Pinch garlic powder Pinch onion powder Add all ingredients to a large pot. Bring to a boil while whisking continuously, making sure to keep sauce from gumming and sticking to the bottom. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring often. Meanwhile, set up an ice bath by placing a sturdy bowl in a larger bowl filled with ice water. Transfer ketchup to bowl in ice bath to cool quickly. When cool, transfer to a jar with a lid and store in the fridge.

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Gift Guide A few suggestions if you’re scratching your head over what to give the foodies on your list this holiday season...

Catalina Offshore Sushi Kit Catalina Offshore’s sushi kits simplify at-home sushi making. Their sushimaking kit includes all the equipment you need, and a range of sashimi kits provide a variety of sushi-grade fish to feed groups as small as four and as large as 33 people. If you’ve ever wanted to try sushi at home, now’s your chance. catalinaop.com

CSA Subscription If you’re giving the gift of food, consider treating your family to a share in a community supported agriculture (CSA) program.

Details vary from program to program, but each promises regular installments of of fresh-from-the-farm produce. You can find a listing of local CSAs under Resources on Edible San Diego’s website, ediblesandiego.com

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Jackie’s Jams

Knight Salumi

Giving a jar of locally produced Jackie’s Jam is like gifting San Diego’s seasons in a jar. Flavors like blood orange, spicy peach, and strawberry-rhubarb explode on the palate, while pumpkin butter, strawberry chocolate, and apple butter are creamy and comforting.

Every batch is made without preservatives or other additives and with very little added sugar. jackiesjams.com

Rey Knight is passionate about his cure. He ensures that every product in his line of hand-made charcuterie is chemical free, relying on natural fermentation and curing processes to produce shelf-stable salumi.

Whether you opt for a spicy coppa molina or a subtle sorpresatta, once you have a taste, there really is no turning back. knightsalumico.com

Re-Pac Bags Carlsbad-based Re-Pac bags are the perfect excuse to re-think your plastic bag habit. Their line of cheerful cloth bags practically beg to be stuffed with healthy snacks and wholesome lunches. Made from water-resistant fabric, the bags are mold and mildew resistant, washable, and durable—they even come with a lifetime warranty. re-pacbags.com

BottleHood We love that BootleHood takes discarded bottles from area restaurants and bars and upcycles them into glasses and tableware, as well as lamps, candles and jewelry. And we also love the look of the result. Whether it’s a set of tumblers with recognizable logos or a vase with a subtly familiar bottle shape, these repurposed wares have style. bottlehood.com

Jackpot’s Pottery

Chocolate

There’s nothing like enjoying a carefully crafted meal on carefully crafted serveware, especially when both food and serveware are local. Jackpot’s pottery offers a cheerful and whimsical array of serving pieces, place settings, and specialty pieces like butter crocks and sushi sets. jackpots-pottery.com

When it comes to chocolate, there really is no excuse not to buy local.

In fact, there’s no excuse not to buy in triplicate.

We’re enamored with Caxao, Chuao, and Eclipse, three chocolatiers who each push the boundaries of chocolate decadence in their own way. Whether it’s in the form of truffles, bars, or caramels, a gift from any of these local innovators is sure to win over friends, family, and co-workers. caxao.com, chuaochocolatier.com and eclipsechocolat.com

Ballast Point Spirits Not to long ago, local liquors were the stuff of dreams. Now, local craft brewery Ballast Point has debuted a line of spirits, making locavores reexamine their liquor cabinets. So far, the distillery has released Old Grove Gin and Three Sheets Barrel Aged Rum; look for Devil’s Share Whiskey to follow suit. ballastpointspirits.com

Victory Gardens Donation Victory Gardens San Diego’s gift-giving program allows you to make a charitable donation in your gift recipient’s name. You get a printable gift card explaining what your gift will be used for, as Victory Gardens puts your funds toward installing front- and backyard gardens and educating the public about planting, caring for, and using home-grown produce. victorygardenssandiego. com

A good book We believe a cook’s bookshelf can never have too many cookbooks, especially when the caliber of books being published keeps rising. This year, we’re excited about Primal Cuts: Cooking With America’s Best Butchers

by Marissa Guggiana, which features artisinal butchers, including Pete Balistreri of Tender Greens; From Terra’s Table: New American Food Fresh from Southern California’s Organic Farms, by San Diego chef Jeff Rossman, and, of course, Edible: A Celebration of Local Foods, a collection of recipes culled from Edible magazines across the country.

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How Sweet It Is M A love of cheese meets a love of cupcakes

By Jean Courtney

ichelle Ciccarelli Lerach found her “whey” to cheesemaking through law. She was involved in a law practice for years, and remembers a conversation with a lawyer friend who asked her what she would do if she could do anything in the world—probably thinking it would be something big in an area of business or finance. She said, “I’d be a cheesemaker.”

Well, now she is.

A trip to Africa in 2008 with her stepdaughter, Shannon, and friend, Jean Courtney (the author ... “write what you know,” right?), included some time at a boys’ home in Tanzania. A dozen boys, Jim Morris, General Manager of Michel-Schlumberger winery, left parentless from the Tommy the dog, Michelle Lerach and Eric Smith of Pug’s Leap farm. ravages of HIV/AIDS, were living in a newly constructed group home and a garden was being considered to supplement the meager food supply. The women had also visited a Maasai village and noted the profusion of goats in the area. Michelle even bought a goat at a Maasai market (he was named Parachichi—a Swahili word meaning avocado) and then gifted it to another Maasai family. The women had an aha! moment and decided they needed to go back to Africa some day and share the art Michelle milks a goat. of cheesemaking to supplement the food sources. But, first they had to learn it!

Michelle makes cheese.

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Fate stepped in a month later when Michelle and Jean were on a “Foodie Tour” of Sonoma, organized by Donna Del Rey of Relish Culinary Adventures. The tour included a stop at Pug’s Leap Farm, a small artisan goat cheese producer, where they were to have a short demo on the art of making goat cheese. There they met the proprietors, Pascal Destandau and Eric Smith (fabulous way before the Beekman Boys!), who gave them the standard tour and were surprised that the ladies wanted

to go down to the stalls and meet the goats. The dream of wanting to go back to Africa was shared, and Pascal and Eric immediately offered to help by teaching them cheesemaking. From the time of offer to the time it actually was to happen, the issue of internships in farming arose that confounded (and fined) members of the local farming community. But that’s another article….

The return to Sonoma to learn the cheesemaking skills started off with Michelle indulging one of her passions— baking. Cupcakes in particular. She taught a Cupcake Class at Relish. And then spent a month at Pug’s Leap, getting up at the crack of dawn to milk the goats and learning how to make cheeses in the afternoons. On the drive back to San Diego, she stopped in Santa Rosa at the Beverage People, a store that sells fermentation equipment, and “bought out the farm” on cheesemaking books and supplies.

But the passion for cupcakes moved to front burner—within the year, she opened Cups, an Organic Cupcake Lounge in San Diego. Soon after opening, she launched Cups Culnary, a teaching kitchen, which is run under the guidance of Jesus Gonzalez, a San Diego-based chef and Slow Food devotee who was making delectable spa food for lucky visitors at Rancho La Puerta before relocating permanently to San Diego and Chad White, of EGO Culinary Trends and bacon jam fame. Michelle’s cupcakes are all organic, and she wanted to do as much of the dairy herself as possible.

She passed her stash of cheesemaking materials on to Jesus, who worked on her recipes. Now all of the ricotta, mascarpone, and cream cheeses used in the cupcakes and frostings are housemade. And, I might add, delicious.

Here are their recipes for Housemade Ricotta, and the signature GlutenFree Limone Ricotta Cup, along with Housemade Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting. Enjoy!

Housemade Ricotta Cheese

Limone Ricotta Cups

Makes 2 pounds

Makes 2 dozen

1 quart whole milk

1 pound almond meal (or finely ground almond flour)

¼ cup vinegar

7 ounces gluten free flour

salt

1 pound softened butter

Pour the milk into a large pot, and heat it to 190-195 degrees F. Add the vinegar and stir. You will see small curd particles rise to the surface. Ladle the curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander, and set aside to drain over a catch bowl. When the curds are cool to the touch, tie the corners of the cloth into a ball, wrap the ends around a wooden spoon, and rest the ends of the wooden spoon on the edges of your sink, allowing the curds to drain.

1 pound plus 9 ounces sugar 8 eggs 2 pounds ricotta cheese 2 teaspoon vanilla extract

After a few hours the cheese should stop draining, at which time you can salt to taste. Package the cheese in an airtight container and refrigerate.

Ricotta will stay fresh for five days in the refrigerator.

Housemade Cream Cheese

1 teaspoon lemon oil Sift almond meal and gluten free flour together. Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy making sure to scrape down the sides, add ricotta cheese and mix until well combined. Add one egg at a time to ricotta and butter mixture until the batter is smooth and eggs are all combined. Mix in flours slowly, stop to scrape down the sides, add vanilla and lemon oil last.

Scoop mixture into lined cupcake tins about ¾ of the way full. Bake at 350 degrees for about 25–30 minutes.

Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes 1 ½ pounds 4 cups non-ultra pasteurized half and half

14 ounces softened cream cheese ½ pound unsalted butter

1 cup non-ultra pasteurized heavy cream

½ tablespoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons buttermilk

pinch salt

1 teaspoon salt (optional)

6 ounces powdered sugar

Heat the creams to 90 degrees F, then stir in the buttermilk and pour the mixture into a sanitized mixing bowl—preferably glass or a nonreactive metal. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Wrap a few kitchen towels around the bowl, making certain that they fit snugly.

Place the bowl in a warm area, and let it sit for twenty-four hours. After 24 hours the cream mixture should have the consistency of yogurt and should not move when the bowl is leaned on its side. If it still has some movement, the cultures need more time to develop, so let it sit for 6–12 hours more.

1 teaspoon lemon oil

Once you have a firm mixture, pour it into your cheese-cloth-lined colander with a catch bowl underneath. Allow it to drain for 15 minutes. Then fold the cheese cloth over the cheese. Place the colander in a deep bowl for continued straining. Cover it with plastic, and place in the refrigerator for as long as 12–14 hours.

In a stand mixer, cream the cream cheese and butter together until smooth and fluffy. Make sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add vanilla and salt and beat until just combined.

Add powdered sugar in two batches until well incorporated. Add lemon oil and mix on low speed until well combined.

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Eateries

El Take It Easy

Alchemy Restaurant

3926 30th Street San Diego, CA 92104 619-255-8778 eltakeiteasy.com

1503 30th Street San Diego, Ca 92102 619-255-0616 alchemysandiego.com

Eat Drink Local Guide Food and drink providers are invited to participate in this guide because of their emphasis on using local, seasonal ingredients in their menus and their commitment to real food. By partnering with local farms, ranches, fishermen and food and beverage artisans, they are creating a distinct and sustainable dining experience unique to the San Diego region.

Please contact us if your restaurant, catering company, coffee house or bar meets our criteria and you would like to be included in Edible San Diego’s Eat Drink Local Guide. info@ediblesandiego.com 619-222-8267 36

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A social club with excellent food.

Jsix

Alchemy serves cultural fare, craft beer & cocktails. We prepare interesting food from high quality ingredients and local produce. Our restaurant serves nightly starting at 4:00 until at least 11:00 and the bar closes at midnight or so.

Alchemy is also open for brunch on weekends at10:00am.

616 J Street San Diego, CA 92101 jsixrestaurant.com Facebook /JsixRestaurant Twitter @ JsixRestaurant Jsix is downtown San Diego’s culinary escape into the season’s best. Sourcing locally and using made-from-scratch methods, this sustainable restaurant embraces the slow food approach and sets the standard for thoughtful and inspiring cuisine.

Barrio Star 2706 5th Avenue San Diego, CA 92103 619-501-7827 isabelscantina.com Fresh, creative takes on traditional mexican food. Generous portions, innovative margaritas, friendly atmosphere. Wholesome ingregients, whimsical decor, unique south of the border cuisine!

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www.soulryde.com

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Blind Lady Ale House 3416 Adams Ave San Diego, CA 92116 619-255-2491 blindlady.blogspot.com Blind Lady Ale House (BLAH) in Normal Heights offers a spectacular and “finely curated” lineup of local and craft brews, and is a Certified Purveyor of Honest Pints. BLAH serves Neapolitan-style pizza topped with fresh-made mozzarella (among others), local veggies (mostly certified organic) and sausage, chorizo, ciccoli and pate house-made from sustainably produced meats.

Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria 897 South Coast Encinitas, CA 92024 760-634-7671 blueribbonpizzeria.com We support local farmers markets, local businesses and sustainable practices. Our dough undergoes a 3-day fermentation process.

Our pizzas are fired in a true wood burning oven. Our fennel sausage is house-made from sustainable Berkshire pork. Our mozzarella is hand-stretched daily in house. Our produce is local and organic and we feature local beer.

Mistral 4000 Coronado Bay Road Coronado, CA 92118 dineatmistral.com Mistral redefines modern French cuisine with an innovative dining experience. Blending influences from Europe’s Mediterranean coast, Chef Patrick Ponsaty marries responsibly-grown ingredients with brilliant technique to create robust, intense flavors in every dish. Sweeping views of Coronado Bay and San Diego skyline stretch out beyond floor-to-ceiling windows.

Ritual Tavern 4095 30th St. San Diego, CA 92104 619-283-1720 ritualtavern.com When you seek the finest drink and heartiest fare this evening, tread no further than through the doors of the Ritual. It is our pleasure to serve you piping hot food and a rich selection of beer and wine. Our tavern reflects the honor we pay to the traditions of old. Taste the worldly flavors of Britain, Germany, New Orleans, and the trade winds spirit blowing around us. Make your visit to the tavern a ritual.

Sea Rocket Bistro 3382 30th St San Diego, CA 92104 619-255-7049 searocketbistro.com Serving sustainable local seafood, small farm organic produce, rancher-direct pastured meats, San Diego craft beers and California wines in a comfortable, casual environment. Check our website for special events and promotions!

Our advertisers speak for us.

Caterers

Starlite DINNER COCKTAILS LATE NIGHT EATS

The Forage Supper Club LOCAL FOOD UNIQUE COCKTAILS 3175 INDIA STREET SAN DIEGO CA 92103 619-358-9766 WWW.STARLITESANDIEGO.COM

Dinner. Cocktails. Late night dining. We are proud to offer you some of the finest ingredients found in Southern California. We emphasize handmade cuisine that uses the year round abundant produce available locally. Our menu changes frequently to accomodate seasonal products available in San Diego.

Tender Greens 2400 Historic Decatur Road San Diego, CA 92106 619-226-6254 tendergreensfood.com

The Linkery 3794 30th Street San Diego, CA 92104 619-255-8778 thelinkery.com We gather people to grow, cook, craft and savor the best food and drink in San Diego.

3rd Corner 2265 Bacon Street San Diego, CA 92107 619-223-2700 897 S. Coast Hwy 101 Ste. F-104 Encinitas 760.942.2104

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The Fishery showcases a premier seafood market at the center of the restaurant. The menu is market driven and changes seasonally. Using ingredients at their peak of freshness, Chef Arias demonstrates that the best tasting food is fresh, local and in LUNCH, DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH season. The Fishery5040 invites to enjoy theBeach Cassdiners Street, North Pacific 858-272-9985 excitement of fish straight out of thethefishery.com sea and local organically grown fruit and vegetables at our weekly “Tuesday Tastings”.

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320 South Cedros Ave. Solana Beach 760-207-5324 carruthcellars.com

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Carruth Cellars

RESTAURANT & MARKET

5040 Cass Street San Diego, CA 92109 858-272-9985 thefishery.com

The Forage Supper Club was launched in the Fall of 2009 to celebrate sustainable farming and local culinary traditions. Inspired by a vivid abundance of farmers and food artisans in California, Chef Jordan Russell hosts a series of nomadic dinners using ingredients sourced from a 90 mile radius.

To follow The Forage’s whereabouts visit www. theforage.com

Local liquids

Tender Greens is an organic restaurant chain offering organic salads, hormone free beef, free range chicken, artisanal baked goods, and house made charcuterie. Tender Greens Point Loma sources produce locally.

The Fishery

PO Box 91520 San Diego CA 92169 info@theforage.com

Ca

3175 India Street San Diego, CA 92103 619-358-9766 starlitesandiego.com

ry on Cedr

Visit the Winery on Cedros and experience an authentic urban winery while tasting award-winning wines such as Sonoma Syrah, Napa Cab., & Dry Creek Zin, paired with artisan cheeses from a local CSA. Cheers!

Café Moto 2619 National Ave. San Diego, CA 92113 619-239-6686 cafemoto.com Proud roasters and Barrio Logan solar powered factory drinkers of coffees and teas. We a secondroasting Fair are Trade, Organic, and Kosher certified coffees for San Diegans. generation family owned and operated business 619.239.6686 www.cafemoto.com that encourages sustainability, by fostering beneficial relationships among farmers and our customers. We purchase organic and Fair Trade products, promoting a healthy environment, fair wages, & permitting relationships to pass on to our future generations.

“We advertise in Edible San Diego because it’s a brand that is considered highly credible by our target demographic and that offers substantial backup to the print platform by engaging in ongoing social network marketing and event participation. We don’t usually purchase print ads, but we do invest in the kind of marketing partnership that we have built with Edible San Diego.”

Catt Fields White, SD Weekly Markets “At first I placed an ad in Edible San Diego because I believe in what they are doing and I think this community needs what they have to offer. But I have been very impressed with the number of calls I get from the ad. I get at least a call a week from the ad, which is very good for a gardening and landscaping business.”

Karen Contreras, Urban Plantations “Edible San Diego is the artisan food magazine of our city!

Pete Balistreri, Executive Chef, Tender Greens “Your magazine flys off the counter and brings in more local foot traffic than any other ad we run.

Our COLLABORATION KITCHEN program is a huge hit due in part to working with you.”

Tommy Gomes, Catalina Offshore Products “Riley has done an impressive job of developing Edible San Diego into a highly sought-after local resource. Not to mention the beautiful and constantly evolving website that reinforces for the on-line community just how important and exciting it is to support local purveyors and savor the many wonderful foods that can be grown and harvested in the region.”

Elena L. Rivellino, Sea Rocket Bistro “Edible San Diego is the journal of good food in San Diego County and our neighboring areas. It is the go-to guide for finding what is local, fresh and delicious to eat and drink.”

Gary Spoto, Slow Food San Diego

“Edible San Diego supports and encompasses the same vision as Caxao Chocolates. It was important to us to select a publication that fully represents our philosophy of using local and seasonal products and promoting artisan products. Edible San Diego has given us great exposure. We are happy with the positive outcome.”

Caxao Chocolates

Casual, affordable, neighborhood bistro featuring a living wine list and late night dining until 1:00am. Over 800 bottles to choose from, wine tastings and wine dinners. Lunch and Brunch also served. Closed on Mondays. winter 2010

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Local Marketplace

Cultural Fare & Cocktails served nightly Brunch on Weekends

North County’s Farm to Table Pizzeria www.BlueRibbonPizzeria.com 760.634.7671 Organic Wine • Craft Beer

1503 30th Street in South Park 619.255.0616 www.alchemysandiego.com

Cure your seasonal allergies, boost your immune system and improve your energy level by eating

Ambrosia.

A BLEND OF LOCAL FRESH POLLEN & RAW HONEY DELECTABLE, EDIBLE & SPREADABLE WWW.HONEYBEEPOLLEN.COM SFORGANICS@COX.NET

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Featuring California North Coast Reds along with Russian River Chardonnay & Lake Country Sauvignon Blanc. Our tasting room is open to the public 5 days a week.

Cellar Club Mambers taste for free.

619-933-8448 sagemtnpastures@ gmail.com

sagemountainfarm.com edible San Diego

ry on Cedr

Carruth Cellars is a boutique urban winery in the heart of Cedros Design District.

Available to restaurants and consumers.

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320 South Cedros Ave., #400 Solana Beach 858-847-WINE(9463) • carruthcellars.com

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Now serving brunch Saturday & Sunday 10am-2:30pm Book your hoilday and private parties now.

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2706 5TH AVENUE SAN DIEGO

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www.soulryde.com

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LUNCH, DINNER & SUNDAY BRUNCH

5040 Cass Street, North Pacific Beach 858-272-9985 thefishery.com

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Advertiser Directory

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Our heartfelt gratitude to all our advertisers for their support in sustaining Edible San Diego.

Please support them and thank them for helping make us a part of this community.

You can find a complimentary copy of Edible San Diego at any of our advertisers and at local farmers’ markets. Other distribution spots are listed on ediblesandiego.com.

Alchemy 619-255-0616 alchemysandiego.com

Carruth Cellars 858-847-9463 carruthcellars.com

Ampolos Kitchen & Bath Design Center 858-576-9009 ampolosdesigncenter.com

Catalina Offshore Products 619-297-9797 catalinaop.com

Anthony Imbimbo, CPA 619-497-1040 anthony@awicpa.com Art Academy of San Diego 619-231-3900 artacademyofsandiego.com Barrio Star 619-501-7827 barriostar.com/ Blind Lady Ale House 619-255-2491 blindladyalehouse.com Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria 760-634-7671 blueribbonpizzeria.com Brian’s Farmers’ Markets sdmarketmanager.com Cafe Moto 619-239-6686 cafemoto.com

Caxao Chocolates 619-379-2447 caxao.com City Farmers Nursery 619-284-6358 cityfarmersnursery.com Coastal Sage Gardening 619-223-5229 coastalsage.com El Take it Easy eltakeiteasy.com Good Earth Plant Company 858-430-0575 greenscapedbuildings.com Green Beef 888-524-1484 eatgreenbeef.com JSix 619-531-8744 jsixrestaurant.com Mistral 619-424-4000 loewshotels.com

Palomar Mountain Spring Water 800-227-0140 palomarwater.com Ritual Tavern 619-283-1720 ritualtavern.com Ron La Chance Farmers’ Markets 858-272-7054 Sage Mountain Farm 951-767-1016 sagemountainfarm.com San Diego Botanic Gardens 760-436-3036 sdbgarden.org SD Weekly Markets 619-233-3901 sdweeklymarkets.com Sea Rocket Bistro 619-255-7049 Searocketbistro.com Slow Food San Diego, Urban San Diego and Temecula Valley slowfoodsandiego.org slowfoodurbansandiego.org temeculavalleyslowfood.org

Specialty Produce 619 -295-3172 specialtyproduce.com Sunflower Organics honeybeepollen.com Starlite 619-358-9766 starlitesandiego.com Sun Grown 619-921-8135 sungrownorganics.com Suzie’s Farm 619-921-8135 Suziesfarm.com Tender Greens 619-602-4721 sandiegoroots.org The Fishery thefishery.com 858-272-9985 The Linkery 619-255-8778 thelinkery.com Urban Plantations 619-563-5771 urbanplantations.com

winter 2010

edible San Diego

39

San Diego Faces Agricultural Quarantine

By Jill Richardson

This summer, with the discovery of six light brown apple moths (LBAM), San Diego joined 16 other California counties in being under imposed quarantine by both the state and federal governments. The LBAM is a generalist pest that originates from Australia and now inhabits New Zealand, New Caledonia, Hawaii and the U.K. in addition to California. The moth is known to feed on over 2,000 plant species, including many of the food crops grown in California.

trouble with LBAM quarantines because they do not spray toxic chemicals that would eradicate any moths on their property.

All or part of San Diego County will be placed under a larger federal quarantine, although the details do not seem to be finalized yet. The state-imposed quarantine includes a 1.5-mile radius around where the moths were found. Four of the six moths found in San Diego were found one mile east of Balboa Park. This area includes one agricultural institution: City Farmers Nursery.

While it seems that many in San Diego are not terribly concerned about these measures, this issue has been highly charged in other parts of California since 2007. James Carey, an entomologist at UC Davis, has focused his career on invasive pests, working with CDFA for years to help inform their regulatory practices. At the Californians for Pesticide Reform conference last March, he spoke about the state’s handling of the LBAM issue (which began with a moth found in Berkeley in early 2007), criticizing their disregard for science while crafting their policies. Until recently, the state set the goal of eradicating LBAM, which Carey felt to be an impossible goal, given that the pest population is already established in the state.

Under the quarantine, the nursery will be monitored for LBAM and it can operate normally unless any moths are found. Bill Tall, owner of City Farmers, says he will follow the rules of the quarantine, even if it means sacrificing his plants to avoid spraying them with pesticides (he has done this before). As of press time, no moths had been found at the nursery.

For many San Diegans, the moth itself is likely not a worry.

What is troubling are the quarantine restrictions that specifically disadvantage organic producers and incentivize increased spraying among those who are not organic. It is refreshing to see nursery owner Bill Tall remain principled and choosing not to spray with pesticides, even in the face of quarantine.

An employee of the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) who works on LBAM said that in other parts of the state, organic nurseries and berry farms have had the most

Jill Richardson is a San Diego–based freelance writer. She is the author of Recipe for America: Why Our Food System Is Broken and What We Can Do To Fix It and the founder of the blog LaVidaLocavore.org

Farmers’ Markets MONDAY Escondido—Welk 8860 Lawrence Welk Dr. off Old Hwy 395 1–sunset winter 3–7 pm summer 760-751-4193

TUESDAY

Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1–5 pm 760-687-6453 Ocean Beach 4900 block of Newport Ave. 4–7 pm (summer 4–8 pm) 619-279-0032

Alpine Viejas Outlet Center 5005 Willows Rd. 3:30 – 7:30 pm 619-743-4263

San Marcos *# Cal State San Marcos 333 S. Twin Oaks Valley Rd. 1–6 pm (1–sunset, fall-winter) 760-751-4193

Coronado Old Ferry Landing, First St. & B Ave. 2:30–6 pm 760-741-3763

Santee * 10445 Mission Gorge Rd. 3–7 pm 619-449-8427

Escondido * Grand Ave. btw Juniper & Kalmia 3:30 – 7 pm May to Sept 2:30 – 6 pm Oct to Apr 760-745-8877

Temecula* 40820 Winchester Rd. btw Macy’s & JC Penney 9 am–1 pm 760-728-7343

Mira Mesa * Mira Mesa High School 10510 Reagan Rd. 3–7 pm 858-272-7054

Tu Mercado University of San Diego Campus 5998 Alcalá Park, btw Marian Way & Morris Dr. 11 am–2 pm

Otay Ranch—Chula Vista 2015 Birch Rd. and Eastlake Blvd.

4–8 pm (winter 4–7 pm) 619-279-0032

THURSDAY

Rancho Bernardo—Webb Park 16826 Bernardo Center Drive 11 a.m –6 pm 858-206-5704 UCSD Campus Town Square at Gilman/Meyers 10 am–2 pm (Sept. 30 to June) 858-534-4248

WEDNESDAY

Chula Vista Center St. off Third Ave. 3–7 pm (3–6 pm fall/winter) 619-422-1982 Del Sur Camino Del Norte & Lone Quail Rd. 3–7 pm 858-586-7933 Horton Square San Diego 225 Broadway & Broadway Circle 11 am–3 pm, Closed ‘til March 760-741-3763

Adams Avenue 4674 35th St. at John Adams Elementary 3–7 pm year round 619-233-3901

North Park* CVS Pharmacy 3151 University & 32nd St. 3 pm–sunset (winter 2 pm–sunset) 619-233-3769

Bonita Valley Bonita Valley Comm. Church 4744 Bonita Rd. 3–7 pm 619-954-4810

Oceanside Market & Faire * Pier View Way & Coast Hwy. 101 9 am–1 pm 619-440-5027 Oceanside Sunset Tremont & Pier View Way 5–9 pm (winter 4–8 pm) 760-754-4512

SDSU Campanile Walkway btw Hepner Hall & Love Library 10 am– 3 pm www.clube3.org

City Heights *!# On Wightman St. btw Fairmount & 43rd St. 9 am–1 pm 760-751-4193

UTC # Genesee Ave. at UTC Westfield Shopping Plaza 3–7 pm 619-795-3363

Del Mar 1050 Camino Del Mar 1–4 pm 760-586-0373

FRIDAY Borrego Springs Christmas Circle Comm. Park 7 am–noon, November 5–June 760-767-5555 Fallbrook 102 S. Main, at Alvarado 10 am–2 pm 760-390-9726 Imperial Beach * Seacoast Dr. at Pier Plaza 2–7:30 pm (Oct-Mar, 2–7 pm) 619-397-1917 La Mesa Village * 8300 block of Allison Ave. 3–6 pm 619-440-5027 Mission Hills Falcon St. btw West Washington & Ft. Stockton 3–7 pm (3–6 pm winter) 858-272-7054 Mission Valley # Mission Cntr. Rd. at Camino Del Rio N. Nov-Dec ONLY, at AMC Theater entrance 3–7 pm 619-795-3363 Old Town Historic Park Fiesta de Reyes, 2754 Calhoun St. 10–2 pm 619-840-5579 Rancho Bernardo Bernardo Winery parking lot 13330 Paseo del Verano Norte 9 am–noon 760-500-1709

SATURDAY Carlsbad * Roosevelt St. btw Grand Ave. & Carlsbad Village Dr. 1–5 pm 760-687-6453

Little Italy Mercato Date St. (Kettner to State) 9 am–1:30 pm 619-233-3769 Pacific Beach 4150 Mission Blvd.

8 am–noon 760-741-3763 Poway * Old Poway Park 14134 Midland Rd. at Temple 8–11:30 am 619-440-5027 Ramona * Collier County Park, 626 E St. 8:30 am–12:30 pm 760-788-1924 Scripps Ranch 10380 Spring Canyon Rd. & Scripps Poway Parkway 9 am–1 pm 858-586-7933 Temecula * Old Town Temecula Sixth & Front St. 8 am–12:30 pm 760-728-7343 Vista * County Courthouse 325 Melrose Dr. South of Hwy 78 8 am–12:30 pm 760-945-7425

SUNDAY Bonsall (closed until spring) River Village Shopping Center 5256 S. Mission Rd. at Hwy 76 9:30 am–1:30 pm 208-553-4700 Fallbrook (temporarily closed) 139 S. Main 11 am–3 pm 760-390-9726

winter 2010

Gaslamp San Diego 400 block of Third Ave. 9 am–1 pm 619-279-0032 Hillcrest * DMV parking lot 3960 Normal & Lincoln Sts. 9 am–2 pm 619-237-1632 Julian Wynola Farms Marketplace 4470 Hwy 78 3 miles west of Julian 11 am–4 pm 760-885-8364 La Jolla Open Aire Girard Ave. & Genter, La Jolla Elem. School 9 am–1 pm 858-454-1699 Leucadia * 185 Union St. & Vulcan St. 10 am–2 pm 858-272-7054 Point Loma # Corner of Cañon & Rosecrans 9:30 am–2:30 pm 619-795-3363 Rancho Santa Fe Del Rayo Village 16079 San Dieguito Rd. 9 am–1 pm 858-922-5135 Solana Beach 410 to 444 South Cedros Ave. 1–5 pm 858-755-0444 * A ccepts WIC (Women, Infants, Children Farmers’ Market checks) # A ccepts EBT (Electronic Benefit Transfer) ! C urrently only City Heights accepts WIC Farmers’ Market Checks and the WIC Fruit and Vegetable Checks.

All San Diego County markets listed except SDSU are certified by the County Agricultural Commissioner. Please visit ediblesandiego.com and click on “Resources” for more complete information.

edible San Diego

41

Why are we Slow Food members?

“Because our food system is broken, and I want to be part of the solution.”

“Because I want to know the people behind my plate.”

“Because access to good, clean and fair food is a right and not a privilege.”

“Because I care about the quality of the food I put into my body, the effects it has on my health and the health of the planet, and creating a just and sustainable food economy.”

“Because the integrity and health of my food reflect directly on my own integrity and health as a human being.”

“Because preserving heritage seeds, breeds, food traditions and food ways is an important part of cultural identity and helps ensure gastro-diversity.”

“Because I love knowing the local farmers, brewers, vintners and chefs who care about the sustainability of our food.”

“Because I believe everyone should have access to good, clean and fair food.”

“Because I care about the environment and my community.”

“Because I want to know where my food comes from!”

Diverse in our reasons.

United in our efforts.

And now, more affordable than ever. Visit slowfoodusa.org to become a member for just $25. Choose from one of three local chapters: Slow Food Urban San Diego

Slow Food San Diego – North County

Slow Food Temecula

This ad partially sponsored by Edible San Diego in our efforts to strengthen local food systems and Photo: Dhanraj Emanuel support sustainable agriculture.