Something Special in Spring Green

The White School is a 144-year-old former schoolhouse located on Lexington Street in Spring Green. Two years ago, Leah Spicer and Kyle Beach took over what was a popular weekly pizza night and turned the space into their restaurant, Homecoming.

The old blonde wood floors are well-worn and scratched from lots of chairs being pulled in and out and children’s feet. The building has only two rooms: a high-ceilinged dining room and a kitchen which, according to Spicer and Beach, has some serious limitations.

Working only with an outdoor oven and induction burners, the couple and their chef team have created a new dining experience that offers an array of dishes built on the bounty of nearby farms. The previous menu of pizza and salad has grown to include steaks, pasta, oysters, barbecue, crudo and brunch favorites.

Spicer grew up in nearby Clyde, and during the pandemic the partners decided to move from Asheville, North Carolina back to her family farm where they now grow some of the vegetables for Homecoming. They also buy ingredients from Steadfast Acres, Don’s Produce and a variety of nearby livestock farms. In addition to supporting the local economy and getting the freshest vegetables and humanely raised meat, Beach says, “We get to serve their families; they eat here all the time. We have so much pride serving them the fruits of their labor.”

Despite the kitchen’s limitations, Spicer speaks about the space with fondness. “There’s so much natural light. It’s really one big room, everyone is working shoulder to shoulder, which has its advantages.”

Homecoming’s staff is as important as their suppliers; all employees receive a living wage and share tips. On a recent Instagram post seeking new hires, they advertised travel reimbursements if commuting from Madison and “a place that is comfortable to work in, where you are always treated with respect. All time-off requests honored—we do things differently out here.”

Bottom: The Reunion culinary team on the line during dinner service.

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Top: Head chef Chance Spivey sautés in the Reunion kitchen. Spivey had previously served as chef de cuisine at Homecoming.

Bottom: Tuna crudo with celery, edible flowers and basil oil.

In addition to the rotating seasonal menu, Homecoming offers pop-ups featuring barbecue and Latin American, Indian and Asian dishes. “For the people who live here year-round, there’s not a lot of diverse [dining] options. It’s fun for us and the staff to be able to explore different techniques and build on some of our past experiences and use our cookbook library,” says Beach.

As a complement to Homecoming, Spicer and Beach have launched Reunion, a restaurant located at 134 Jefferson Street in the century-old bank building in Spring Green. Chef Chance Spivey is at the helm, while chef Christian Amador remains at Homecoming.

“Homecoming has a special small-town vibe, with all the kids playing in the yard. Reunion has the same soul, but is a little more elevated, a little more polished,” says Spicer. There is more seating available, people can make reservations and there’s a full kitchen.

Reunion doesn’t offer pizza, but has more entrees, including several cuts of steak, fish, more vegetarian options, a full bar and a dedicated gluten-free fryer.

The pair is excited to offer a chance for their suppliers to grow. “For a few of our producers, like Cates Family Farm, Enos Farm and Seven Seeds Farm, we’re their biggest account, so we’re excited that they will be able to scale and grow along with us at Reunion,” says Beach.

Spicer both embraces and is hesitant to call Reunion a supper club. “People have incredible memories of their childhood supper club, so you’re always disappointing someone. But what every supper club has in common is delicious food and drinks, the staff takes care of you, you can bring your family and that’s what we want to recreate. That supper club feeling.”

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