Edible LA | No. 3

FALL 2017

Issue No. 3

edibleLA

Sharing the Story of Local Food, Season by Season

SHOP OUR HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE + see a list of the season's must-haves p. 36

+

Fall Beer Map ...

Getting a Second Chance at L.A. Kitchen ...

Alfresco Thanksgiving ...

MALIBU the BOUNTiful Member of Edible Communities

Good food starts at the source.

Join the revolution www.patagoniaprovisions.com

IN THIS ISSUE A gorgeous persimmon cocktail from the head bartender at Lucques, a.o.c., and Tavern

33 42 EDITOR’S LETTER p. 4

features 19

departments

MALIBU THE BOUNTIFUL This season's essential itinerary for experiencing the bounty of the Malibu coast.

BY CLAUDIA TAYLOR

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FALL BEER MAP Sip through the season with eight local craft brews.

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NEWS & NIBBLES

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WHAT’S IN SEASON NOW

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READING CORNER

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LOCAL HERO Learn how the amazing L.A. Kitchen gives people - and produce - a second chance through their life-changing programs.

BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT | MAP BY JEREMY DELLAROSA

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ALFRESCO THANKSGIVING Take the feast outdoors with our rustic menu and pro tips.

BY SHAUNA BURKE

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• CONTRIBUTORS p. 10

2017 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE P. 36

BY LISA ALEXANDER

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Fall fruits are the best inspiration for seasonal cocktails and five local bartenders share their favorite recipes.

A BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO URBAN FARMING No matter where in LA you are, your yard-to-table dreams may only be a few steps away.

BY RACHAEL NARINS

SIP ON THIS

BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT

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THE FOOD HISTORIAN Indigenous Peoples Day and diet: learn the truth about fry bread.

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BY LINDA CIVITELLO

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BEHIND THE LINE Meet Phuong Tran, executive chef at Croft Alley in West Hollywood.

BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT

Don't miss OUR LIST OF HOLIDAY ESSENTIALS AROUND LA P. 39

editor's note

NO. 3

FALL 2017 PUBLISHER Pulp & Branch LLC

FALL'S BEAUTIFUL BOUNTY

It has always annoyed me a bit when people say Los Angeles doesn't have seasons. We may not have three feet of snow on the ground, but we watch the leaves change and feel a chill in the air just like everyone else! We may even wear a sweater or two...

Fall is such a beautiful time to live here and all it takes is one trip to the farmers' market to see the unbelievable bounty available to us all.

Persimmons and pomegranates are my personal favorites (find a few awesome ways to use pomegranates on p. 9) and I love decorating my home and table with the muted colors of heirloom pumpkins, like the ones displayed on this issue's cover.

Show us what you love about Fall in LA by posting photos on Instagram, tagging us @EdibleLAMag, and using #FeastOnLA. We'll repost our favorites!

Enjoy the season...

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shauna Burke CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lisa Alexander Shauna Burke Ryan Caveywoolpert Linda Civitello Rachael Narins Claudia Taylor CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER Carolina Korman CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS Jeremy Dellarosa Tanya Hendry

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SALES REPRESENTATIVES Doreen Cappelli doreen@ediblela.com TRAVEL, ENTERTAINMENT, & STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS Marjorie Fagan mef214@earthlink.net HEALTH & BEAUTY, HOME, REAL ESTATE

With much love,

Adriana Arahuete adriana@ediblela.com RESTAURANTS, FOOD/BEV

Shauna

Shauna Burke, Editor in Chief edit@ediblela.com

EDITORIAL INQUIRIES edit@ediblela.com CUSTOMER SERVICE & SUBSCRIPTIONS hello@ediblela.com

Winner of James Beard Foundation Award 2011 Publication of the Year

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No part of this publication may be used or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2017 Pulp & Branch LLC. All rights reserved.

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Cover Photo © Melanie DeFazio

MAILING ADDRESS 27407 Pacific Coast Hwy Malibu, CA 90265

15 recipe index food 15 Roasted Pumpkin Taco 15 Squash Risotto with Pomegranate Butter 17 Beet, Avocado, and Citrus Salad 18 Balsamic Ice Cream 20 Black Garlic Vinaigrette 42 Oysters with Pomegranate Seeds 42 Persimmon, Burrata, & Mache Salad 42 Rolled Pork Loin with Sausage, Sage, and Fennel 45 Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Goat Butter 45 Stuffed Cider-Poached Pears Wrapped in Pastry 49 Acorn Muffins 50 Cauliflower Grilled Cheese

drink 33 Tidewater 33 Bishop's Cup 34 Rebel Pom Snap 34 Pearly Legal 35 Not Your Gram's Vodka-Cran

edible NEWS

news & nibbles CONNECT WITH US

WIN A COOKBOOK! Enter for a chance to win a copy of the new cookbook Healing Mushrooms: A Practical and Culinary Guide to Using Mushrooms for Whole Body Health by Four Sigmatic's Tero Isokauppila.

SAVE THE DATE!

To enter: 1. Follow @EdibleLAMag on Instagram 2. Take this copy of Edible LA for a fun foodie adventure and snap a photo of the magazine at your favorite restaurant, brewery, coffee shop, bakery,...you get the idea.

3. Tag @EdibleLAMag and include #edibleLAcontest

VOLTAGGIO BROTHERS OPEN STRFSH Chef Bryan Voltaggio will join his brother Michael on the West Coast to open STRFSH, a new fish sandwich restaurant opening at The Gallery in Santa Monica mid-October. Expect freshly-grilled fish with house-made rubs and condiments - like jerk rub and yuzu kosho mayo - all served on toasted potato rolls. STRFSH will also feature boardwalk-style fries, an East Coast staple and favorite of these Maryland-born brothers.

JOIN "SHARED PLATES" TO FIGHT HUNGER & SUPPORT L.A. KITCHEN Shared Plates is a city-wide weekend of dinner parties, taking place October 6-8, 2017, to rally Angelenos in the fight against hunger, food waste, and unemployment. Anyone can host a Shared Plates dinner, and every dollar raised supports L.A. Kitchen (lakitchen.org).

Getting involved is easy: 1) SIGN UP. You'll get to choose your own ticket price, number of guests, and time/date. 2) INVITE GUESTS. We'll email you a unique RSVP link that your guests can use to purchase tickets to your Shared Plates dinner. 3) GET INSPIRED. You'll get an official #SharedPlatesLA Host Kit with fun swag, decor, recipes, and a suggested program!

Visit sharedplates.org for more info or to sign up.

If there's a local event that should make our calendar, let us know! hello@ediblela.com

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MALIBU WINE HIKE & HARVEST When: OCTOBER 21 Where: Saddlerock Ranch, Malibu malibuwinehikes.com

Begins with a hike through the vineyard and organic gardens where participants have the opportunity to harvest their very own vegetables, learn the history of the estate and the famous Chumash archaeological site, and taste some fantastic wines.

EASTSIDE FOOD FESTIVAL

When: OCTOBER 22 Where: MBS Media Campus, Silver Lake eastsidefoodfest.com Join over 30 food and beverage vendors from LA's eastside, like Bar Angeles, Sawyer, and Go Get 'Em Tiger, for a food festival benefitting the PATH organization. Attend discussion panels, food demos, and more.

JACKALOPE INDIE ARTISAN FAIR When: NOVEMBER 18-19 Where: Central Park, Pasadena jackalopeartfair.com

Featuring over 200 local, hand-selected artisans, crafters, and DIY enthusiasts.

Shoppers can expect to find trendsetting indie goods including original fashion and jewelry design, ceramics and paper goods, innovative home decor and housewares, art and photography, plus much more!

Photo By: Peggy Sirota

MAKE BRE AKFA ST HAPPEN SO KIDS CAN BE H UNGRY FOR MORE

I was one of our nation’s hungry kids growing up. Today, 1 in 6 children in America struggle with hunger. But when they get breakfast, their days are bigger and brighter.

Learning, attention, memory and mood improve. Together, we have the power to get breakfast to kids in your neighborhood — let’s make it happen. Go to hungeris.org and lend your time or your voice.

Viola Davis, Hunger Is Ambassador

Hunger Is® is a joint initiative of the Albertsons Companies Foundation and the Entertainment Industry Foundation, which are 501(c)(3) charitable organizations.

What's in Season Now Produce

seafood

APPLES ARTICHOKES BEETS BELL PEPPERS BRUSSELS SPROUTS2 EGGPLANT ENDIVE GRAPES KALE KOHLRABI LIMA BEANS MANDARINS MUSHROOMS OREGANO PARSNIPS PASSION FRUIT PERSIMMONS POMEGRANATES PUMPKINS QUINCE ROSEMARY RUTABAGAS SWEET POTATOES THYME TURNIPS WINTER SQUASHES

CLAMS DUNGENESS CRAB PACIFIC HALIBUT PACIFIC SALMON PACIFIC MACKEREL PINK SHRIMP RIDGEBACK PRAWN ROCKFISH SABLEFISH SPINY LOBSTER WHITE SEA BASS YELLOWTAIL

Photo © Mosuno/Stocksy United

FALL & EARLY WINTER

SPOTLIGHT:

POMEGRANATES The ever popular seeds of the pomegranate are like glistening jewels, begging to be eaten all throughout the season with these delicious ideas.

In Season: mid-late September through January What to Look For: deeply colored fruit that feels heavy for its size Pomegranate Mimosa

Add 2 oz of fresh pomegranate juice to a Champagne flute, fill with cold sparklig wine, and garnish with a few pomegranate seeds

Goat Cheese or Ricotta Crostini

Spread a bit of ricotta or goat cheese onto crostini, top with pomegranate seeds, then season with sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil.

Garnish Squash Soups

Whether butternut squash or pumpkin or kabocha squash, any squash soup will love the tart and colorful pop of a few pomegranate seeds.

Avocado Toast

Arrange avocado slices on a thick slice of toasted bread, then garnish with pomegranate seeds, a sprinkle of sea salt, and a squeeze of fresh lemon.

Add to Grain Salads

what we commonly call pomegranate seeds are actually called arils

Quinoa, farro, wild rice, and many other grains make hearty seasonal salads. Mix cooked grains with chopped apple, red onion, soft herbs, pomegranate seeds, sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, a squeeze of lemon, and a couple tablespoons of olive oil.

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our contributors 10

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contributors

"I love Comice pears from Penryn Orchards at the Wednesday Santa Monica Farmers Market," says contributing writer LISA ALEXANDER (Imperfect Beauty).

"Slice them into a huge salad with toasted hazelnuts, a spritz of lemon and a glug of olive oil. Also, try their beautifully dramatic Arkansas Black apples for the first sweet snap of Fall."

"When the weather gets nippy, I want to be some place cozy and elegant, eating my new comfort food," says contributing writer LINDA CIVITELLO (The Food Historian). "The place is Flame Persian Cuisine. The food is ash—pronounced “ahsh”—a thick Persian stew made with garbanzos, kidney beans, white beans, and lentils.

If the soup doesn’t warm me up, then the hot bread does. They make it in front of you in a standing oven, a tanor, cousin to the tandoor."

"Fall brings my favorite fruit, the Fuyu persimmon, that I find at the Santa Monica Farmers Market," says contributing photographer CAROLINA KORMAN (Imperfect Beauty). "Delicious, sweet and floral in taste, gorgeous in color. Persimmons make the perfect Fall still life to photograph."

We asked our contributors to dish on their

FAVORITE FALL TREATS

Photo ©iStockphoto.com/Povareshka

Where are your favorites? We want to know! Share on social media and tag @EdibleLAMag

"For a warm, savory meal, I love tucking into The Old Place, an original stagecoach stop in Agoura that has few seatings per night," says contributing writer CLAUDIA TAYLOR (Malibu the Bountiful). "Sitting in a booth or at the bar - it’s cowboycolorful, raucous, and has strolling minstrels. We always get one of the wood-fired steaks and the mushrooms served in a sizzling hot skillet. You can even bring wine from the Cornell Winery next door."

"I head out to The Falls Lounge in Downtown LA for the Big Sur cocktail," says contributing writer RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT (Sip on This; Fall Beer Map). "It's an herbal concoction of gin, Chartreuse, herbs, and spruce bitters. Can't forget The Figgy Piggy flatbread, which pairs sweet fig jam with prosciutto, blue cheese, arugula, and a balsamic reduction."

"Fall is about apples, and I'm obsessed with L.A. Kitchen's apple chips," says contributing writer RACHAEL NARINS (A Beginner's Guide to Urban Farming). "They're handmade by graduates of Empower L.A. and 100% of the proceeds are reinvested back into the program. I eat them right out of the bag or crumble them up to add to homemade granola. It's everything you could ask for in a snack: social justice, healthy food, supporting a local business, and reducing food waste."

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SOME OF THIS SEASON'S

MOST DELICIOUS READS

HEALING MUSHROOMS A PRACTICAL AND CULINARY GUIDE TO USING MUSHROOMS FOR WHOLE BODY HEALTH Tero Isokauppila (Avery) If you haven't been to Four Sigmatic's Shroom Room on Abbot Kinney in Venice, consider Healing Mushrooms their visual guide to medicinal mushrooms like Reishi, Chaga, Cordyceps, and Tremella. Learn new uses and unlock the potential of even familiar mushrooms like oyster, shiitake, and enoki with 50 gorgeous recipes. -eLA

smÖrgÅsbord art of swedish breads and savory treats Johanna Kindyall (Ten Speed Press) A beautifully illustrated cookbook filled with traditional and accessible Swedish recipes like Rye Bread, Elderflower Cured Trout, Fresh Cheese, and infused aquavit liqueurs. Sprinkled with tips and cultural knowhow, this makes a beautiful gift for any foodie. -eLA

get the recipe for gravlax with fennel on ediblela.com 13

reading corner

GUERRILLA TACOS RECIPES FROM THE STREETS OF L.A. Wesley Avila, with Richard Parks III (Ten Speed Press) Los Angeles might just have the greatest tacos in the country, but native Angeleno Wesley Avila's tacos have always stood out. His inventive recipes all seem completely essential and make us want to have a taco party ASAP. -eLA

ROASTED PUMPKIN TACO 14

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ROASTED PUMPKIN TACOS Recently while doing Guerrilla Tacos popups in Mexico City, we were challenged to use only ingredients that were available seasonally at the market. I saw a pumpkin and immediately remembered seeing a whole pumpkin charred in a wood-fired oven at Pazar in Australia. And so this taco was invented on the spot.

This also includes a very spicy salsa. The reason we use such a spicy salsa with this dish is because there are a lot of sweet components, and we need to cut the sweetness with some spice. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, a food processor will work fine.

BIRD'S BEAK SALSA INGREDIENTS 1 cup Thai or bird’s beak chiles, or about 15 small colorful chiles 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1⁄4 cup white vinegar Kosher salt INSTRUCTIONS In a mortar and pestle, pound together the chiles and garlic. Really pound it! You should see a paste forming. Keep going. You want it fully pulverized, but you’re doing it by hand.

After you’re getting close, slowly incorporate the white vinegar. Season with salt and set aside.

PEAR VINAIGRETTE INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 pear, cored and cut into thin slices 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1⁄2 cup champagne vinegar 1 cup grapeseed oil Kosher salt 2 cups crushed pecans 1⁄4 cup light corn syrup 1⁄4 cup granulated sugar 2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds 21⁄2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 cup golden raisins or dried figs 21⁄2 cups fresh orange juice 1⁄4 cup mezcal INSTRUCTIONS In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter until it’s nicely browned, not black. Add the pear and caramelize thoroughly, about 6 minutes. Then add the honey and, using a heatproof spatula, scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just to warm through, and then set aside to cool.

In a blender, combine the pear, mustard,

champagne vinegar, and grapeseed oil; puree thoroughly; and season with salt. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat.

In a medium mixing bowl, toss together the pecans, corn syrup, granulated sugar, cumin seeds, and 1⁄2 tablespoon of the salt. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and roast for about 8 minutes, or until golden brown.

Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Once thoroughly cooled, break up the pecans with your hands and set aside.

In a saucepan over high heat, combine the raisins, orange juice, and mezcal. Let the mixture reduce until the raisins soak up 90 percent of the juice. They should be plump.

Set aside.

Turn a gas grill to 500°F or use a charcoal grill and light as many coals as it takes to make a pile several inches wider in diameter than your pumpkin and that reaches within an inch or two of the grate.

Place the whole pumpkin as close to the fire (or hot coals) as you can. Blacken thoroughly, flipping to get it blackened evenly all around, about 25 minutes. Then, use a thin knife to pierce the pumpkin to make sure it’s cooked through. You should get some resistance from the skin, but the knife should slide into the flesh smoothly after that. You should be able to put the knife in and pull it out without too much effort. Remove the pumpkin from the fire and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Begin peeling all the black parts off the pumpkin. Cut the pumpkin in half vertically, and remove and discard the seeds and fibers.

Cut the pumpkin into wedges and portion into 3-by-2-inch pieces about 3⁄4 inch thick.

(These don’t have to be uniform; you just want them to be able to fit in the tortillas.) Place the cut pieces into a 12-by-24-inch roasting pan and brush melted butter liberally over each.

Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons salt, the pepper, thyme, and brown sugar.

Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Set aside.

In a mixing bowl, combine the arugula, raisins, pecans, goat cheese, and pear vinaigrette so it’s almost like a salad.

Top the tortillas with a layer of the roasted pumpkin, then the arugula mixture, and finally the salsa. Serve immediately.

Reprinted with permission from Guerrilla Tacos, copyright © 2017 by Wes Avila, with Richard Parks III. Published by Ten Speed

Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC. Photographs copyright © 2017 by Dylan James Ho and Jeni Afuso

SQUASH RISOTTO WITH POMEGRANATE BUTTER Serves 4 Pomegranate Butter INGREDIENTS Seeds (arils) of 1 pomegranate 5 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (80 g) butter 1 sprig sage 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar INSTRUCTIONS Spread the pomegranate seeds on a dehydrator tray and dehydrate at 113°F (45°C) until dry, at least 6 hour or overnight.

(If you don't have a dehydrator, microwave on medium for 30 seconds, stir, then return to the microwave for another 30 seconds.

Continue until the pomegranate seeds are completely dry.)

In a medium saucepan, warm the butter over low heat and cook until light brown, about 5 minutes. Add the sprig sage and fry. Remove the sage and add the pomegranate seeds and vinegar. Set aside.

Squash Risotto In a medium saucepan, warm the butter over medium heat. Add the squash, bay leaf, and a generous ¾ cup (200 ml) water. Cover and cook until soft, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a blender and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Measure out 1¾ cups (200 g) of the puree and set aside. (Save any remainder for another use.)

In a small pot, bring 1½ cups (350 ml) water to a boil. Meanwhile, in a medium pot, toast the rice over medium heat without browning.

Add the boiling water little by little, stirring constantly, until creamy, about 15 minutes.

Add the reserved squash puree and the Parmigiano and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest for 3 minutes.

Add the lemon juice and stir to combine.

Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, place a generous spoonful of the squash risotto in each bowl and drizzle with pomegranate butter.

Adapted from BREAD IS GOLD by Massimo Bottura (Phaidon, $39.95 US/54.95 CAN, November 2017)

BREAD IS GOLD EXTRAORDINARY MEALS WITH ORDINARY INGREDIENTS Massimo Bottura & Friends (Phaidon, 2017) A new, approachable take on fighting food waste by using ordinary, affordable ingredients that are available to anyone on any budget.

The book includes truly accessible recipes from 45 of the world's top chefs, including Rene Redzepi, Alain Ducasse, Daniel Humm, and Mario Batali. -eLA

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Beet, Avocado, and Citrus Salad AMERICA: THE COOKBOOK A CULINARY ROAD TRIP THROUGH THE 50 STATES Gabrielle Langholtz (Phaidon) An honest-to-goodness culinary journey through this country, showing us the diverse dishes and hyper-local ingredients of each state with 800 recipes. Johnathan Gold and Alice Waters contribute to the conversation on California, which is not to be missed. -eLA serves 4 INGREDIENTS 1 ¼ lb (565 g) medium beets (beetroots) Salt 3 tbsp fresh lemon juice ½ tsp Dijon mustard ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon 2 avocados, cut into ½-inch (1.25 cm) thick slices 2 blood oranges, peeked and segmented ½ cup (50 g) thinly sliced red onion INSTRUCTIONS Bring a medium pot of water to a boil and salt generously. Add the beets (beetroots), reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook until the beets can be pierced easily with a knife, 30–45 minutes.

Meanwhile, set up a bowl of ice and water. When the beets are done, drain and shock in the ice water until cool enough to handle. Drain and peel. Slice each beet into 8 wedges.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Whisking constantly, add the olive oil in a stream until creamy and emulsified. Whisk in the tarragon.

On a small platter, arrange the beets, avocados, blood oranges, and onions. Drizzle with the vinaigrette and season to taste with salt. Serve immediately.

Adapted from AMERICA: THE COOKBOOK by Gabrielle Langholtz (Phaidon, $49.95 US/$59.95 CAN, October 2017)

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BALSAMIC ICE CREAM VINEGAR REVIVAL Artisanal Recipes for Brightening Dishes and Drinks with Homemade Vinegars Harry Rosenblum (Clarkson Potter) If you love fermentation and homemade vinegar as much as we do, Rosenblum's new cookbook is an essential addition to the cookbook shelf. Learn how to make vinegar from leftover beer, wine, or even fruit scraps. The recipes - from cocktails to desserts - will excite any vinegar lover. Try one of our favorites, the balsamic ice cream! -eLA serves 4 This dessert is a still-frozen ice cream, or semifreddo, as opposed to churned ice cream. While hand-churned ice cream will yield a smoother texture, this recipe works well and requires no special equipment. Serve it with fresh strawberries, raspberries, or blueberries.

INGREDIENTS 2 large eggs, separated ½ cup confectioners’ sugar 1¼ cups whipping cream 2 tablespoons store-bought balsamic vinegar ½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, like Maldon INSTRUCTIONS 1. Beat the egg yolks, confectioners’ sugar, and ¼ cup of the whipping cream in a double boiler. Set the mixture over medium heat and cook until it starts to thicken, about 10 minutes. Chill the custard to room temperature or refrigerate until cool.

2. In a small bowl, whip the remaining 1 cup whipping cream until thick. You can do this by hand with a whisk, an egg beater, or an electric mixer. Stir in the balsamic vinegar and salt. Fold the cooled custard into the whipped cream.

3. In another bowl—copper if you have it—whisk the egg whites until stiff but not dry. Copper helps the egg whites whip well without becoming dry and grainy.

4. Fold the whipped cream and custard mixture into the egg whites. Pour the mixture into a 8 × 4-inch loaf pan or freeze-safe bowl, cover it, and freeze overnight before serving. This ice cream will last in the freezer well covered for up to 2 weeks.

Reprinted from Vinegar Revival. Copyright © 2017 by Harry Rosenblum. Photographs copyright © 2017 by Ed Anderson.

Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.

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Malibu the

BOUNTIFUL Abundance in our Midst

Photo ŠiStockphoto.com/MBPROJEKT_Maciej_Bledowski

T

BY CLAUDIA TAYLOR

he day after Labor Day signals an imminent wave of sanity for Malibu locals. In the blink of an eye, the beaches seem to clear, traffic on the highway returns to a normal pace, and that cozy beach town feeling is back. Fall is officially in the air.

Malibu may be famous for its twenty-one miles of pristine coastline, but more recently it has been garnering a reputation as a vital wine region, a haven for organic and biodynamic farming, and a bustling weekend destination for Angelenos everywhere. Locals and visitors alike have seemingly endless opportunities to enjoy Malibu’s bounty, from wine tasting to authentic farm-to-table dining, all season long.

MALIBU FARM Perhaps one of the most picturesque and Instagrammed restaurants in Malibu, this gem is known for celebrating local, seasonal, and organic produce. Chef and owner Helene Henderson started out by crafting wildly popular dinners on her own family farm and has since relocated to the iconic Malibu Pier, operating both the casual Café at the end of the pier as well as a full-service restaurant and bar at the beginning of the pier, both looking out on the sparkling blue Pacific Ocean. Henderson’s vegetable-crust pizzas - like the cauliflower crust pizza topped with mozzarella, tomato, and pesto - are legendary and hardly anyone can resist this Swedish-born chef’s pancakes.

UPCOMING EVENTS AT MALIBU FARM October 29 5th Annual Pumpkin Carving & Petting Zoo November 23 Thanksgiving Dinner on the Pier December 25 Breakfast with Santa

THORNE FAMILY FARM Owned by Larry Thorne and his family, Thorne Family Farm is a Malibu institution. Located near Zuma Beach on Bonsall Drive, this is where local chefs and neighbors are known to run into each other while shopping for gorgeous berries, greens, melons, avocados, tomatoes, citrus, eggs, olive oil, and more, and catch up on the latest community scuttlebutt or maybe pick up a new recipe. One sought-after ingredient and cult favorite is Thorne’s fermented black garlic, which has a sultry, savory, caramel-like flavor and luscious texture that pairs beautifully with this season’s dark leafy greens and roasted vegetables (see the recipe for Black Garlic Vinaigrette, below). Thorne also sells Farmshop breads and pastries, so arrive early to avoid missing out. The farm is in operation through November, open Saturdays from 8am-2pm.

FUN FACT:

zuma is derived from the Chumash language and means abundance

BLACK GARLIC VINAIGRETTE

Add the shallot and vinegar to a blender and allow to sit for about 5 minutes before adding other ingredients. Blend until emulsified.

Photo ©iStockphoto.com/bonchan

6 cloves black garlic ½ cup + 2 tbsp extra-virgin Malibu Olive Co olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 small shallot, minced a few sprigs of fresh thyme, roughly chopped pinch of cayenne pepper sea salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

SADDLEROCK GARDENS An immersive dining experience - all in and of the garden - can be found here at Saddlerock Gardens. Shane Semler, picking up the mantle of the Semler dynasty, has launched Garden Dinners (tickets available at saddlerockgardens.org) on the property and the Fall Dinner Series will run through the season.

A little over a year ago, Semler, along with garden gurus Ryland Lancaster and beekeeper Eli Lichter-Marck, reclaimed a horse pasture on the family estate, reinvigorated the soil using biodynamic techniques, and built a fullyfunctioning outdoor kitchen with vintage barn wood.

Diners can bask in the light of the early evening at this utterly bucolic setting of the Semler’s sprawling ranch, complete with grazing horses and exotic animals. The innovative and wellpaced five-course dinners are served family-style and are prepared in the open kitchen by rotating chefs David Wilcox and Alina Hardin. A recent menu, prepared by Hardin, began with mushroom popcorn with Tajin spice and burnt buttered grapes with queso. The dinner included a seared eggplant salad (find the recipe online at ediblela. com), braised pork, a wilted kale salad, and chicken escabeche with cauliflower and pickled onions.

Each course was, of course, paired with gorgeous wines.

Saddlerock Gardens also offers a Hike and Harvest, which begins with a hike through the vineyard and organic gardens where participants have the opportunity to harvest their very own vegetables, learn the history of the estate and the famous Chumash archaeological site, and taste some fantastic wines.

MALIBU WINE SAFARIS For those less inclined to hike, the wine safari (lasafaris.com) is the perfect way to enjoy a mellow day of wine tasting and an open-air tour of the verdant Saddlerock Ranch estate. Truly magnificent vistas and a chance to see exotic animals that include zebras, camels, bison, and Stanley the giraffe!

SIP MALIBU GRAPES Nestled in the woods off Kanan Rd, SIP offers unique wine tastings and features a full selection of local, boutique wines in a charming indooroutdoor setting. A great spot to sip through Malibu wines!

CORNELL WINERY & TASTING ROOM Tucked into the hills off Mullholland Highway, in a historic landmark building, Cornell offers wine tastings and a unique shop selling wines from all over California, as well as gifts and artwork. @EdibleLAMag

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THE RANCH MALIBU For those seeking a bit of a body tune-up, mental detox, or a chance to feel all the benefits of a plantbased diet, The Ranch Malibu is an exclusive vegan boot-camp that can kickstart or reinforce a healthy lifestyle.

Situated on a former working ranch, three miles from the Pacific Ocean and in the shadow of magnificent Bony Ridge, The Ranch offers an immersive 7 Day Reboot which includes hiking, yoga, meditation, fitness and, yes, napping!

Stay in one of the 18 rustic-yet-refined guest cottages, wake early, spend the days free of cell phones and enjoy nutrient-dense meals with food prepared from the two-acre organic garden.

Chef Ian Bryant works closely with garden manager Geri Miller to highlight each week's harvest. Chef Bryant is currently busy preserving the abundance of late summer tomatoes, kale, and figs by dehydrating them to put into salads and power-packed snacks.

The Ranch also offers weekly cooking classes to enhance the guest's understanding of plant-based nutrition and allows them to make more nutritious food and lifestyle choices after returning home.

VISIT OUR TASTING ROOM IN BEAUTIFUL

Paso Robles Wine Country

LE CAFE DE LA PLAGE For a sweet ending to the weekend, Le Cafe de la Plage offers exotic, handmade organic ice creams like pineapple basil, rose raspberry lychee, black vanilla with charcoal, and goat cheese with olive oil. Find this charming shop at the Point Dume Plaza where they also serve amazing coffee (try an affogato with one of their delicious ice creams) and pastries from Gjusta Bakery and Farmshop. • 22

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FOURSISTERSRANCH.COM

FALL

BEER

MAP

SIP THROUGH THE SEASON WITH THESE 8 LOCAL CRAFT BREWS WORDS BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT

MAP BY JEREMY DELLAROSA

2

Dark Side Black IPA

3

Blood Junkie (Imperial Red Ale)

MacLeod Ale Brewing Co. VAN NUYS

Santa Monica Brew Works SANTA MONICA

Three Weavers Brewing Company INGLEWOOD

4 Oktoberfest Vienna Lager

Absolution Brewing Company TORRANCE

Night Before the Morning After 5 The (Pumpkin Imperial Porter) Phantom Carriage Brewery CARSON

6

Pun King

Iron Triangle Brewing Company DOWNTOWN

7 Acorn Saison

Craftsman Brewing Company PASADENA

Barrel-Aged Black Common 8 Bourbon Lager Brewyard Beer Company GLENDALE

Illustration ©iStockphoto.com/saemilee

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Coffey Time (Imperial Coffee Porter)

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1

7

2 6

3

5 4

IMPERFECT BEAUTY How one non-profit gives produce and people a second chance.

BY LISA ALEXANDER PHOTOGRAPHS BY CAROLINA KORMAN

P

icture yourself as a Seckel pear, clustered with your bros on a hundred-year-old tree in Sacramento County. The breeze kicks up the rustling, shiny leaves all around you. The sun bakes. Come nightfall, the nearby whoosh of the Sacramento River.

Bright and early in the morning, pickers climb ladders to twist you off your branch and into a truck you go to be transported all the way to the Los Angeles Produce Market (lapma.org). Bounce, bounce, bounce along the highway. The following morning, the market hums with the cacophony of pallet drivers, chefs, supermarket and restaurant buyers, and even thrifty shoppers willing to buy in bulk for a deal. Only something’s gone wrong— maybe you got burned on your side of the branch, maybe you got thrashed around in the back of the truck—because now you have a visible bruise at three o’clock, a small gash just under your stem, and your sweet, delicious smell causes a worker to slap a “ripe today” label on you. Uh-oh. Bagged, but unsalable, and cheaper to throw away.

Robert Egger, the founder of L.A. Kitchen (lakitchen.org), is doing his best to give you the second chance you so deserve. He uses donated imperfect produce to make free plant-based meals for Los Angeles area seniors and homeless - and that’s not all. “The only way to fight hunger is with jobs,” Egger says, “so L.A. Kitchen runs a culinary job training program for kids aging out of the foster care system and older men and women coming out of prison.”

It’s an elegant system and a very cool idea.

On a hot day in July, Egger meets me on the floor of L.A. Kitchen’s headquarters. Occupying a roomy corner of a 60,000-square-foot warehouse between Chinatown and Montecito Heights, the kitchen is just blocks from Historic Route 66 as well as the food deserts of Monterey Park, Bell, Watts, Crenshaw, and Inglewood. The space is huge, spanking clean, and bright.

“If there’s any place more important to instill change, it’s here, at ground zero in LA,” Egger says, “ You can draw people in with food, but then this simple metaphor— ‘this fruit has a little wrinkle on it, but isn’t it wrong to throw it away?’—can make people feel @EdibleLAMag

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beautiful and useful just the way they are.”

Talking to Egger is like attending my own personal TED Talk. He’s passionate and bespectacled, with a neatly trimmed silver goatee. He also has some serious foodactivist cred. Egger came from Washington, D.C. where he went from a successful career in the music business to feeding the homeless at his DC Central Kitchen (dccentralkitchen.org). Since its inception in 1989, Egger’s non-profit has given away about 45 million meals, made from food that would have otherwise been thrown out. The organization delivers fresh produce and healthy snacks to convenience stores in DC food deserts, sources ingredients from family farms for school lunches in low-income areas (they received the prestigious 2015 Golden Carrot Award), and runs a free summer meal program for at-risk youth. DC Central was one of President George H.W. Bush’s Thousand Points of Light (pointsoflight.org) and both Presidents Obama and Clinton volunteered there.

“There’s something so equalizing about standing next to a president prepping vegetables,” Egger says.

All of it was built on one simple idea: recycle unused food from restaurants and get it to urban food

banks to feed the hungry. Egger’s next aha moment came in 2002 when he was backstage at a speech and learned that at least half of the Meals on Wheels (mealsonwheelsamerica. org) in L.A. had a waiting list and, worse, the so-called silver tsunami was coming—at the stroke of midnight in 2006, the first of eighty million baby boomers would cross the milestone of age 60.

That’s how Egger ended up here in LA, a city with one of the greatest concentrations of elderly in the country.

The main kitchen is huge. On one side, a long line of recycled pico de gallo containers are being filled with ruffles of emerald lettuce. On the other, chicken salad studded with carrots and celery is stuffed into buns. There’s also a packaging station where sweet potato purée is sealed into trays. Industrial shelves hold bagged pears and stacks of kale. A blackboard displays the list of today’s deliveries to places like the Korean Senior and Community Center (ksccla.com) and the Union Rescue Mission (urm.org) on Skid Row. On the menu is a big salad with soba noodles, grilled eggs, vegetable pot stickers, and spiced seaweed.

And those bagged pears!

“We see what we have,” says Chef Jamel Mayrant, a take-charge guy adorned with a gold nose ring. “We go

"THE ONLY WAY TO FIGHT HUNGER IS WITH JOBS," EGGER SAYS.

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over ingredients. We all come together to figure out what can fit… let’s say an eggplant and a radish…it may not be a recipe just with those things, but we incorporate those ingredients,” he says.

There’s definitely creativity involved here. The chefs have to be quick on their feet and brimming with ideas.

Mayrant tells me that internet search engines and social media help too, as well as collaborating with the other head chefs. “They can look at the stuff and already have recipes ready to go.” As we talk, he and the volunteers mix huge plastic bins of strawberries and cut plums for fruit cups. The smell rises, so sweet and floral that I want to jump in and help.

Next I meet Warner Finley, an enthusiastic soon-tobe Empower L.A. graduate with a dream of going to France and training in a professional kitchen there. Finley was living in a halfway house at a homeless shelter when his caseworker told him about Empower’s culinary job training program.

Now he’s finishing up his internship and working as a caterer.

“Cuts. Sauces. Equipment. Sauces. I learned a lot,” Finley says. “And the thing about this program, it’s like a family, too. Most of my classmates are from institutions and I can see the life changing in them as they come through these rooms.”

In their Culinary Olympics last week, he made chicken parmesan with pasta and homemade tomato sauce.

“I could have saved the pasta water, though, and poured it on top,” he said. “See, that’s what I’ve learned!”

Egger tells me it’s the word on the street that he’s most proud of. L.A. Kitchen has a program where federal judges refer men and women who come here to work as an alternative to sentencing. “It’s this idea of saying - whether it’s parole officers or judges - that we have a whole bunch of people who are willing to make L.A. Kitchen work.”

Robert Reams cooks at STRONG FOOD, L.A. Kitchen’s social enterprise that purchases imperfect produce to manufacture healthy products, upstairs. Reams came to the job from a halfway house after being released from

You can add L.A. Kitchen’s apple chips to an existing Imperfect Produce box subscription. Visit imperfectproduce. com for more information.

prison. Both arms sleeved with tattoos, he seems quiet and sure of himself. A graduate of the culinary school, he makes apple and beet chips as well as fresh, preservative-free baby food. STRONG FOOD employs graduates to create products and then uses the revenue to fuel the other L.A. Kitchen programs.

The most important thing is to get the word out that all of this food is available - plantbased, and nutrient-rich. That’s why L.A. Kitchen is also partnering with health providers like Kaiser Permanente (kaiserpermanente.org) and Martin Luther King Hospital (mlkcommunityhospital.org), so that doctors can literally write a food prescription for their diabetic patients: ‘eat healthy…for free!’

This is a food moment, Egger tells me. People are upset about food waste, people are upset about what’s in their food, and people are upset about unemployment and hunger. What we need to ask is, “what is community?; what is connectivity?; what does beauty look like in this new world?” Even for the pearshaped among us.

Or, as Warner Finley says, “That’s one of my dreams, to give back to people in need. Not only am I changing my life, but I’m changing their lives, too.” •

Ways to Get Involved • Take your kids to Family Friendly Kitchen Prep sessions on weekends.

• Dance and dice at a Disco Chop Party.

• Throw a Shared Plate dinner party. An anti-fundraiser fundraiser, it’s a citywide weekend of dinner parties October 6-8th, 2017. Anyone can throw one and every dollar raised goes to L.A. Kitchen.

• Volunteer in the Teaching Garden during spring and summer months.

• Join in on the kitchen prep, open to volunteers Monday through Saturday.

For more info: sharedplates.org and lakitchen.org/events

@EdibleLAMag

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5 FALL FRUIT COCKTAILS TO MAKE NOW

Photo © Christiaan Rollich

BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT ILLUSTRATIONS BY TANYA HENDRY 32

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sip on this

CHEERS! LOCAL BARTENDERS HIGHLIGHT BEAUTIFUL FALL FRUITS TO CREATE THESE FIVE PARTY-WORTHY COCKTAILS.

PERSIMMON

½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg 1 pod star anise ½ vanilla bean INSTRUCTIONS Add all ingredients to a small saucepan and boil over medium heat until the persimmons are super soft. Transfer ingredients to a blender and pulse until it looks a bit like a milkshake. Strain through a fine sieve and allow it to cool to room temperature before use.

GRAPE

Tidewater Christiaan Röllich, head bartender at LA staples Lucques, a.o.c., and Tavern utilized one of the unsung heroes of the season – persimmon – to create a beautiful cocktail worthy of your next holiday party.

Makes one cocktail INGREDIENTS 1 1/2 oz Pigs Nose Scotch 1 oz spiced persimmon mix (recipe follows) 1 oz fresh lime juice (about 1 lime) ½ oz pure maple syrup 2 fresh sage leaves, for garnish TO PREPARE COCKTAIL Add all ingredients to a short shaker and add ice to the rim.

Shake hard for five seconds.

Strain it over one big ice cube into a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with sage leaves.

SPICED PERSIMMON MIX INGREDIENTS 3/4 cup persimmons, pitted and diced 1 cup fresh orange juice ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground cloves

Bishop’s Cup Ryan Wainwright, bar director at The Ponte in West Hollywood, uses grapes in three different ways to create a warming Fall cocktail, perfect for enjoying in front of the fireplace.

INGREDIENTS 1 ½ oz Gra’it grappa ¾ oz Cocchi Barolo Chinato ¾ oz Concord Grape and Nebbiolo Reduction (recipe follows) 2 dashes Bitter Truth Jerry Thomas Bitters Orange peel, for garnish

sip on this TO PREPARE COCKTAIL Add all ingredients to an ice-filled mixing glass, stir, and strain into a metal chalice. Garnish with orange peel.

POMEGRANATE

CONCORD GRAPE & NEBBIOLO REDUCTION INGREDIENTS 1 part Concord grape juice 1 part Nebbiolo wine 1 part granulated sugar INSTRUCTIONS Juice the grapes, strain the skins, then add the juice and wine to a saucepan. Bring the mixture to a very low simmer and slowly add sugar. Reduce the mixture for 45 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely, and continuing to stir every few minutes.

PEAR

Rebel Pom Snap Sara Pauly, assistant general manager at Rebel Republic in Redondo Beach, shares a fresh, bright cocktail recipe with the true spirit of year-round Southern California sunshine in mind.

INGREDIENTS 2 oz Evan Williams bourbon 1/2 oz pomegranate juice 1/2 oz fresh orange juice 1/4 oz pomegranate syrup dash of Angostura bitters candied pomegranate slice, for garnish TO PREPARE COCKTAIL Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled shaker. Shake well and double-strain into a coupe glass. Garnish with candied pomegranate slice.

CRANBERRY

Pearly Legal Vincent Anter, bartender at FIG Santa Monica inside the Fairmont Miramar Hotel, pairs tart lime juice with warm, spicy cinnamon, whiskey, and fresh pear. This cocktail is bursting with the all the flavors of the season.

INGREDIENTS 2 oz High West Silver whiskey ž oz fresh lime juice ž oz simple syrup 1/2 Anjou pear, seeded and roughly chopped 1 cinnamon stick TO PREPARE COCKTAIL Place chopped pear into a cocktail shaker and muddle. Add whiskey, lime juice, simple syrup, and fill with ice. Shake well and double-strain into a coupe glass. Torch the cinnamon stick and place it in the cocktail.

34 ediblela.com @EdibleLAMag

Not your Gram's Vodka-Cran Jamie Amos, beverage manager at Barcito in Downtown LA, updates one of the most-ordered cocktails on the planet with a gorgeous and aromatic cranberry-lime shrub.

INGREDIENTS 2 oz Loft & Bear vodka 2 oz cranberry-lime shrub (recipe follows) club soda 3 fresh cranberries, for garnish TO PREPARE COCKTAIL Build this cocktail in a Collins glass by first adding the shrub and vodka. Fill glass with ice, top with club soda, then add the fresh cranberries to a cocktail pick and garnish.

CRANBERRY-LIME SHRUB INGREDIENTS 1 lb fresh cranberries 1 cup granulated sugar 3/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/4 cup fresh lime juice INSTRUCTIONS Cranberries need to be cooked slightly to express more juice, so I recommend baking them on a sheet pan for about 15-20 min in a 350°F oven, or just until they begin to burst.

Scrape the pan and drippings into an airtight container. Add the sugar, vinegar, and lime juice, then stir or shake to combine.

The container should be kept in a cool, dark place for at least 24 hours (or up to one week) to ferment. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve before using/ Bartender’s note: shrubs are even delicious on their own or mixed as a mocktail with a bit of sparkling water. •

Photo © Melanie DeFazio/Stocksy United

2017

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

edibleLA 2017 Holiday Gift Guide

Matcha Starter Kit

American Tea Room; $80 theolivefruit.com

Includes a tin of ATR's Premium Organic Matcha, signature glass matcha bowl, 100-tine hand carved bamboo matcha whisk, black ceramic matcha whisk holder, and long-handled bamboo scoop -- as well as a matcha guide + information booklet perfect for beginners.

Oliva Elité 8” Stealth Chef’s Knife

Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Messermeister; $139.95 messermeister.com

Kiklos; $29

Fully forged chef’s knife handcrafted in Solingen, Germany with a highly figured Italian olive wood handle.

theolivefruit.com 100% pure olive juice handmade from only one varietal farmed exclusively in the Peloponnese region of Southern Greece—the Koroneiki olive, known as the “Queen of Olives” for its distinctive flavor and high levels of antioxidants.

Malibu Pink Pepper Shemesh Farms; $10 shemeshfarms.com

L.A. Kitchen Apple Chips Imperfect Produce; $4.99 imperfectproduce.com

Available as an add-on to Imperfect Produce subscriptions, these chips are made from our ugly and surplus apples and all revenue from them goes towards LA Kitchen's community enrichment programs.

We hire young adults with diverse abilities to harvest, curate, brand, market, and sell our products. These delicious pink peppers offer a unique blended flavor and mild kick with a sweetness. Grind and sprinkle on a variety of foods, desserts, and drinks.

edibleLA 2017 Holiday Gift Guide

Meat Camp Belcampo

belcampo.com Join us for a 3-day, 2-night retreat on Belcampo Farms, located at the base of Mt. Shasta in Northern California. At this #BelcampoLife experience, guests stay in luxury tents in our orchard, enjoy family style meals under the stars, and participate in open-fire grilling, basic butchery, and knife skill lessons to gain a thorough understanding of meat cookery. Pricing begins at $2000.

Salami Box

Belcampo by Mario Batali; $129 belcampo.com

New this year, Belcampo Holiday Boxes feature Belcampo by Mario Batali charcuterie and are available online.

Four Sisters Ranch Wine Club Four Sisters Ranch foursistersranch.com

Our club shipments go out twice per year, in the spring and fall, and feature our award-winning Paso Robles white and red blends, sparkling wines, and unique varietals. Visit foursistersranch.com/ wineclub to learn more and join or gift a subscription.

MAKIN' A LIST WE'VE MADE A LIST OF HOLIDAY ESSENTIALS AROUND LA

PERFECT HOLIDAY MEALS TO-GO

must-try eggnogs

EREWHON MARKET, Multiple Locations BARREL & ASHES, Studio City REPUBLIQUE, Mid-Wilshire THE LARDER at Tavern and Burton Way MANHATTAN BEACH POST, Manhattan Beach AKASHA, Culver City M CAFE, Multiple Locations

GRACIAS MADRE, West Hollywood HINOKI & THE BIRD, Century City THE HUNGRY CAT, West Hollywood

Gacias Madre's Vegan Eggnog

FESTIVE TREATS OF THE SEASON SPICED GOAT CHEESE & PUMPKIN PIE ICE CREAM, SALT & STRAW, Multiple Locations CHRISTMAS TIRAMISU, PORTO'S BAKERY & CAFE, Multiple Locations SUFGANIYOT, BIBI'S BAKERY & CAFE, Pico-Robertson PEPPERMINT BARK, SWEET ROSE CREAMERY, Multiple Locations BÛCHES DE NOËL, JOAN'S ON THIRD, Multiple Locations

PIES, PIES, PIES

OUR FAVORITE HOT CHOCOLate

THE PIE HOLE, Multiple Locations ATTICUS CREAMERY & PIES, West LA KNOWREALITYPIE, Eagle Rock CAKE MONKEY BAKERY, Fairfax RUCKER'S PIES, Hancock Park

LAVENDER HOT CHOCOLATE, CAFE DEMITASSE, Little Tokyo MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE, CACAO MEXICATESSEN, Eagle Rock OAXACAN CHOCOLATE DE LECHE, GUELAGETZA, Koreatown CHOCOLATE CALIENTE, CHURROS CALIENTES, West LA

THANKSGIVING DINNER SPOTS

NEW YEAR'S DAY BRUNCH

THE PIKEY, Hollywood NICK + STEF'S STEAKHOUSE, Downtown 71ABOVE, Downtown NAPOLEON & JOSEPHINE, Hollywood THE LITTLE DOOR, Beverly Grove AR CUCINA, Culver City

TAVERN, Brentwood THE WALLACE, Culver City E.P. & L.P., West Hollywood MILO + OLIVE, Santa Monica CAFE GRATITUDE, Multiple Locations @EdibleLAMag

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Left: Photo © Trinette Reed/Stocksy United; Opposite: Photo ©iStockphoto.com/solarisimages

Alfresco Thanksgiving

In true southern California fashion, enjoy your Thanksgiving feast outdoors this year with our rustic recipes and pro tips to make it all come together with ease.

BY SHAUNA BURKE

@EdibleLAMag

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L

et's be honest. Thanksgiving can be one of the most stressful "days off" of the year, but it really should be more about spending time with loved ones and less about being stuck in front of the stove. Here are some of our best tips: 1. First thing's first: let the farmers’ market inspire you. Pick up a pumpkin or two to hold fresh flowers, instead of using a vase.

2. Keep the decor simple by using a table runner and decorating the center with heirloom squash and votive candles in windproof containers.

3. Don’t worry if you don’t have matching place settings. You might even ask your guests to bring a plate or two if you don’t have enough. After all, it doesn’t matter what you’re eating from, as long as everyone is together!

4. Mix up a pitcher of cocktails before your guests arrive, adding ice upon serving. See some great fall fruit cocktail ideas on p. 32.

5. Put a trustworthy shucker on oyster duty and serve fresh oysters topped with pomegranate seeds with cocktails.

6. Pick up sides and pies from a favorite restaurant or market. (see our list of ideas on p. 39). Don't stress about making everyone's favorites.

7. And lastly, ask for help! Put one person in charge of setting the table, another in charge of warming the pies, another in charge of clearing the table. Everyone should have a job.

Persimmon, Burrata, & Mache Salad

Roasted Pork Loin Stuffed with Sausage, Sage, & Fennel

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Brown Sugar and Goat Butter

Stuffed Cider-Poached Pears Wrapped in Pastry

serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS 4 Fuyu persimmons, sliced 8-12 oz burrata cheese 3 cups mache greens 1/3 cup pomegranate seeds 1/3 cup walnuts or pecans, toasted and chopped 4 tbsp fruity olive oil salt and pepper, to taste

INSTRUCTIONS Arrange sliced persimmons on a large plate, topped with mache greens and dollops of burrata. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and nuts, then season with salt, pepper, and a good drizzle of olive oil.

Roasted Pork Loin Stuffed with Sausage, Sage, & Fennel serves 6

INGREDIENTS 1 3-lb boneless pork loin 1/2 lb mild Italian sausage

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Left photo: © Aleksandra Jankovic/Stocksy United; Opposite: © Marta Muñoz-Calero Calderon/Stocksy United

THE MENU

Persimmon, Burrata, & Mache Salad

Top left photo: © Helen Rushbrook/Stocksy United; Top right: © Trinette Reed/Stocksy United; Bottom left: © Ellie Baygulov/Stocksy United; Bottom right: © Harald Walker/Stocksy United

1 small red onion, finely chopped 1 large bulb fennel, finely chopped 1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and finely chopped 1 large clove garlic, minced 4 tbsp olive oil 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs 2 tsp fresh sage, chopped 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves, roughly chopped 1/2 cup broth or water

INSTRUCTIONS Editor’s note: Let your butcher know that you’ll be preparing a rolled/stuffed pork loin and have them slice and flatten it for you.

It’ll save you some work once you get into the kitchen. All you’ll need to when you get home is place the flattened loin between two pieces of plastic wrap or wax paper and use a meat mallet to pound it into an even thickness.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and cook the sausage until lightly browned and no longer pink on the inside. Remove the sausage from the skillet using a slotted spoon, leaving the fat in the pan, and set aside in a large bowl.

Add the red onion, fennel, and apple to the pan and cook until the onion is translucent, 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking for about 1 minute, just until the garlic is lightly browned and fragrant. Add cooked vegetables to the bowl with sausage and set aside.

Return pan to the stove, add 2 tbsp olive oil, and toast the breadcrumbs until lightly and evenly toasted and crisp. Add toasted breadcrumbs and herbs to the sausage mixture and stir to combine.

Lay the flattened loin onto a sheet of plastic wrap or wax paper.

Dump the sausage mixture into the center and use your fingers to press it evenly around the pork, leaving about a one-inch border on each side. Grab the edge of the pork closest to you and roll it up tightly, securing with kitchen twine.

In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the remaining 2 tbsp of olive oil and sear the pork roll on all sides. Transfer to a roasting pan fitted with a rack, uncovered, and add 1/2 cup of broth or water (or even white wine, if you have some) to the bottom of the pan.

Roast for about 45 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 145°F. Remove roast from oven, cover very loosely with aluminum foil, and allow to rest for 10-12 minutes. Slice and serve.

Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Brown Sugar and Goat Butter serves 6

INGREDIENTS 3 sweet potatoes 2 tbsp packed dark brown sugar 3 tbsp goat butter 1 tsp freshly grated orange zest kosher salt, to taste freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Use a fork to pierce holes around each sweet potato, then place them whole on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake for about 45 minutes or until tender.

While still warm, use a serrated or very sharp knife to slice each sweet potato in half lengthwise and place cut-side up back onto the baking sheet. Evenly distribute the brown sugar and goat butter on top of each half and place under the broiler for about one minute or until the sugar and butter begin to bubble.

Remove from oven, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and orange zest and serve.

Stuffed Cider-Poached Pears Wrapped in Pastry INGREDIENTS 6 Bosc pears 4 cups apple cider 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 3 tbsp + 2 tbsp honey 3 tbsp pecans, toasted and chopped 1 tbsp walnuts, toasted and chopped 2 tbsp packed dark brown sugar 2 tbsp dried tart cherries, chopped 1/2 tsp freshly grated orange zest 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon 1/4 tsp ground cardamom 1/8 tsp ground ginger 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed according to instructions 1 large egg, lightly beaten

INSTRUCTIONS Combine cider with 2 tbsp honey and vanilla bean in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve honey. As the cider comes to a simmer, peel the pears and slice off the bottom to create a flat surface. Once the cider is simmering, place all the pears in the pan, stem side up, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20-30 minutes or until the pears are soft and tender.

While pears simmer, combine the remaining honey, nuts, brown sugar, dried cherries, orange zest, and spices in a bowl. Set aside.

Remove pears from the pan and use the large side of a melon baller to scoop out the core from the bottom, creating a space for the nut mixture. Spoon the mixture into each pear, then set aside and allow to cool.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Use a sharp knife to cut puff pastry into six 1/2-inch strips. Wrap each pear with a strip of puff pastry, brush lightly with egg, and bake on a parchment-lined baking sheet until pastry is golden and cooked through.

Serve with vanilla or cider ice cream. Note: if desired, you may remove vanilla bean from poaching liquid and reduce down over medium heat until the liquid coats the back of a spoon. You can use this as a sauce instead of ice cream. •

INSTRUCTIONS Preheat oven to 400°F. @EdibleLAMag

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A Beginner's Guide to Urban Farming In many LA neighborhoods, the yardto-table dream is only a few steps away.

BY RACHAEL NARINS

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@EdibleLAMag

Top Photo ©iStockphoto.com/cergeus; Bottom ©iStockphoto.com/JGalione

F

or many people, getting closer to our food sources is a very appealing idea that can also seem completely unattainable in the middle of a big city. Thanks to dedicated local and state-wide advocates of urban agriculture, there are quite a few things we can all do to raise food right in our own backyards—or front yards.

There are a number of different ways to get started. If you have limited outdoor space, consider parkway gardening. The parkway is that little space between the sidewalk and the curb and it’s a lovely way to green up a street and create a sense of community. Homeowners and renters are permitted to plant vegetables as long as they don’t obstruct the sidewalk in any way. Fruit trees, however, are not permitted and must be planted only on private property. When the vegetables are ready to harvest, make sure to wash them thoroughly to remove any contaminants.

Once the parkway has been planted, consider your own back or front

yard. It’s definitely a smart idea to have the yard’s soil tested for lead or other problems, if planting will take place directly in the ground. If any problems are found, garden boxes are a great way to keep things contained, separated, and they’re an easy way to start fresh without digging up the whole yard! Garden boxes will also help keep things tidy and the soil uncompacted. Unless there’s a homeowners association or other neighborhood restrictions to contend with, there is no law preventing planting those zucchini seeds or tomato plants. Should the zucchini run amok or perhaps some herbs have taken on a life of their own, share with friends or donate to your local non-profit or food bank. Renters shouldn’t feel left out—rolling containers can be easily utilized and moved at a moment’s notice, if needed.

When the plants really start booming, amateur gardeners can even become community food producers, which could allow residents to sell what they grow. To do so, first register as a homebased business with the office of finance and be inspected to meet the California retail food code requirements, then you can apply to sell your harvest at farmers’ markets.

BACKYARD CHICKENS

A sprawling garden is going to need chickens, of course! Unlike heavy livestock, goats, and pigs which all have their own rules - chickens are a nice addition to a small urban farm. They create natural fertilizer, eat unwanted bugs, and keep the soil tilled.

So long as they are housed twenty feet from the home and thirty-five feet from neighboring properties, setting up a coop can be relatively simple. Chicks are available for purchase from spring to late fall, but be sure to check with local animal shelters to see if they have any up for adoption. Don’t forget that chicken husbandry is a serious commitment. Find a reliable avian vet and ask lots of questions before diving in.

One rooster may also be permitted, depending on the area, but are hardly necessary and there are certainly noise considerations there.

BEEKEEPING

The next step in urban farming might be honey bees—pollinators of plants and makers of luscious honey! Honey bees to be precise. In many residential, single-family home areas, residents are allowed one hive – in the backyard, not the front - per 2,500 square feet of property, it must be five feet from the lot line, and have a six-foot-high barrier between your happy

hive and the neighboring lots. Orders for bees and hives can usually be placed in November for spring delivery from local vendors. When that’s all set, the hive needs to be registered with the County of Los Angeles Agricultural Commission. Find a local beekeeping club in your area to get great advice from locals going through the same processes.

Before starting any urban farm project, the absolute first thing to do is check with the city zoning department. Within Los Angeles County, there happen to be eighty-eight separate cities and quite a bit of unincorporated land. The information here is for the City of Los Angeles and therefore won’t necessarily apply to residents of West Hollywood or Ladera Heights, but gives a general idea of where to start and what to look for. If your city has restrictions that are holding you back from your yard-to-table dreams, attend a city council meeting and make your voice heard—or consider moving to a neighborhood that’s calling out for small farmers.

Not very long ago, Los Angeles was a sprawling agricultural community. By knowing the laws and available options, any Angeleno can help to keep that tradition alive. •

the food historian

Indigenous Peoples Day and Diet The Truth About Fry Bread

Photo © Kelli Kim/Stocksy United

BY LINDA CIVITELLO

the food historian

I

ndigenous Peoples Day – it’s the new official holiday in Los Angeles. On Wednesday, August 30, 2017, the City Council voted to replace Columbus Day—originally October 12, but observed on the second Monday in October—with Indigenous Peoples Day. What most Americans know about indigenous peoples and their food is only one thing: fry bread. In southern California, what was the diet of indigenous peoples?

For many Native Americans in southern California, such as the Chumash, acorn meal was the main source of carbohydrates. Problem: acorns contain toxic levels of bitter tannins which must be leached out to render them edible. To do this, the acorns were dried for one year, shelled, winnowed to remove a thin inner shell, pounded into flour, sifted repeatedly through finely-woven baskets, leached by rinsing in water, then cooked into a mush like grits. The processing of acorns was a communal activity, done by women who chatted and sang while they worked.

In addition to acorns, forests and fields yielded wild mushrooms, pine nuts, venison, rabbits, squirrels, and other small game. Rivers and oceans provided salmon and trout, shellfish and crabs. Inland tribes like the Cahuilla traveled or traded to obtain coastal foods like abalone and seaweed. Proteins could be smoked and stored. Berries, grapes, prickly pear cactus and other plant foods were dried by leaving them out in the California sun.

Unfortunately, the grassy fields where the Native Americans foraged for their food was also perfect pasture land for the cattle the Spanish introduced after they arrived in 1769. This ecological disaster destroyed the food supply of the indigenous peoples. Starvation drove them to the missions and later to towns like Los Angeles. Arrested for vagrancy, they were auctioned off to do forced labor, often in the vineyards. After one week, they were deliberately paid only in aguardiente – fire water – with an alcohol content of 18 to 20 percent. This kept them vagrants and set the whole cycle in motion again.

Enter fry bread. It is made from non-perishable ingredients—flour, baking powder, salt, shortening, and water—quickly mixed, patted into rounds, then deep fried.

ACORN MUFFINS This recipe for acorn muffins is fusion food that uses Native American ingredients. It was obtained from a coalition of southern California native tribes. Acorn flour may be found online. makes one dozen INGREDIENTS 1 cup acorn flour 1/2 cup cornmeal 1/2 cup whole-wheat flour 3 tbsp neutral oil 1 tsp aluminum-free baking powder 1/4 cup local honey 1 large egg 1 cup milk INSTRUCTIONS 1 Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease muffin tins or use paper liners.

2 Mix all ingredients in a large bowl.

3 Pour batter into individual muffin cups until they are about half full.

4 Bake on the middle rack for 15-20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the muffin comes out clean.

Toppings can be savory, like pizza or tacos; or sweet, like donuts. It is daily bread, comfort food, fiesta food, pow wow food.

However, nothing in fry bread except salt is indigenous to any Native American culture. All of the ingredients were provided by the United States government after the Native Americans had been subjugated.

Companies competed ferociously for lucrative government contracts to sell baking powder on the reservations.

Caucasian missionaries saw baking powder use as a positive sign: “[Native Americans] are eagerly obtaining from the Government such comforts of civilization as they can—reapers, cooking-stoves, baking-powder.”

Some Native American activists want a ban on fry bread because it is a creation of colonialism and because they believe it contributes to the diabetes prevalent among many Native Americans. Unlike the physically strenuous preparations required to make acorn flour, and to hunt for, gather, and prepare wild proteins, herbs, nuts, and seeds, fry bread is basically fast food. • @EdibleLAMag

ediblela.com

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BEHIND THE LINE

BY RYAN CAVEYWOOLPERT

WITH PHUONG TRAN

EXECUTIVE CHEF AT CROFT ALLEY IN WEST HOLLYWOOD

Croft Alley's Cauliflower Grilled Cheese BÉCHAMEL INGREDIENTS 490g milk 1/2 of an onion, sliced 3 sprigs fresh thyme 3-5 whole black peppercorns 50g unsalted butter 50g all-purpose flour 250g shaved parmesan cheese 100 g shaved Fontina cheese INSTRUCTIONS 1. Heat the milk, onions, peppercorns, and thyme in a saucepan over medium heat and allow to simmer for about 10 minutes. Keep stirring to prevent scalding.

2. In a separate pot, melt the butter, then add the flour and continuosly stir to emulsify and achieve a brown nutty color.

3. Once the butter/flour has emusified, slowly add the milk while whisking constantly. Once all the milk has been incorporated, add the cheeses in a few batches.

4. Allow to sit on low heat, stirring, until all the cheese melts.

CAULIFLOWER

SECOND LOCATION OPENING SOON!

INGREDIENTS 1/4 head cauliflower 1 cup of bechamel 2 slices rustic bread 2 slices Fontina cheese

CROFT ALLEY HILL STREET (DOWNTOWN) IS IN THE WORKS!

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Preheat oven to 375°F. 2. Combine cauliflower and béchamel in a small pot or baking dish and bake in the oven for 30-40 mins or until there is some charring on the cauliflower.

3. Remove the cauliflower from the oven and set aside.

4. Toast the bread, top each slice with Fotina cheese, then mound the cauliflower on one slice and top with the remaining bread. Slice in half and enjoy!

STAY TUNED FOR NEWS.

TRAN'S LOCAL FAVORITES LATE NIGHT INDULGENCE READING AND SCOURING FOR NEW MUSIC

COFFEE SHOP THE ASSEMBLY, WEST HOLLYWOOD

FAVORITE BURGER IN-N-OUT BURGER OR CASSEL'S HAMBURGERS

INGREDIENT OF THE MOMENT CHLOROPHYLL