Eat

THE FORK NOT TAKEN

EATING UTENSILS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

words: Madeline Crozier | photography: Jennifer Reidy | layout: Caryn Scheving

When we think about global cuisines, we o en consider food in terms of di erence. And the means by which people deliver food to their mouths— whether by forks, spoons, chopsticks, atbreads or ngers—o en signals that di erence the most. Custom and culture can and do shape the variety of ways people eat.

Yet eating around the world isn’t always about what’s di erent—it’s also about what’s the same. Consider the words of Dr. Margaret Visser, cultural anthropologist and author of e Rituals of Dinner: “Food is never just something we eat . . . we use eating as a medium for social relationships: Satisfaction of the most individual of needs becomes a means of creating community.”

Here’s a closer look at some of the most common ways people around the world eat their food and create community.

Yemeni food includes hummus, tabbouleh, lamb shawarma, rice, naan bread

Pottery spoons by Gravesco Pottery GravescoPottery.com

FORKS, SPOONS & KNIVES

In ailand, most people eat with a spoon in the right hand and a fork in the le hand, using the fork to move food onto the spoon. Chopsticks tend to appear only alongside noodle dishes. In the Philippines, forks and spoons function in a similar way. But at a traditional Kamayan feast, a Tagalog word that translates to “by hand,” a bounty of Filipino dishes sits atop banana leaves and everyone around the table gathers bites of food and rice with their hands. Forks, knives and spoons may reign as the most common cutlery in the United States, but we still eat plenty of hand-held foods simply for the sake of convenience and speed. When we think about hamburgers, French fries and corn on the cob, eating with our hands doesn’t seem so di erent a er all.

Banana leaf

FINGERS & FLATBREADS

Although dining customs across India vary regionally, eating with the right hand is traditional and common. Roti and naan atbreads also hold bites of food scooped from communal pla ers. Traditional Ethiopian cuisine is served with a large, slightly spongy atbread called Injera, made from the ancient grain te . e thin injera tears easily to scoop up individual bites. Yemeni cuisine favors two types of atbreads: malooga and lahoh. Malooga o en pairs with savory dishes, like those that include beans or eggs, while the spongier sourdough lahoh complements soups and curries.

CHOPSTICKS

e word “chopsticks” appears to be an English-language version of the Chinese pidgin “chop chop,” meaning “quickly.” Invented in China, chopsticks are popular in countries across East Asia, such as Korea, Vietnam, Cambodia, Malaysia and Singapore. Chopsticks are the most frequently used utensils in Japanese cuisine—just don’t stand the chopsticks up in a bowl of rice. What makes this move a social faux pas? In Japanese burial customs, the deceased’s rice bowl is placed next to the co n with a pair of chopsticks standing upright. So instead, place the chopsticks together parallel to the edge of the table when not in use, or use a chopstick rest.

Amuse bouche spoon by Gravesco Pottery GravescoPottery.com

Ethiopian combination plate includes yebeg alecha, doro we , sega we , misir we , spinach, yellow beans, carrots and green beans eaten on injera bread

EDIBLE CUTLERY

e disposal of single-use eating utensils contributes to the plastic waste crisis. To reduce the carbon footprint le by these wasteful utensils, companies around the world have started developing biodegradable and edible cutlery that can be eaten at the end of the meal. India-based company Bakeys molds spoons and forks from a mixture of sorghum, rice and wheat ours. e spoons even come in three avors: savory, sweet and plain. U.S. company Bocado makes edible spoons targeted toward one-bite appetizers.

Tofu vegetable pho with with five-minute five-minute egg egg

Edible spoons by Bocado BocadoProducts.com

MADELINE CROZIER is a freelance writer and student based in Chicago. An Indianapolis native, she attends DePaul University as a graduate student in the Writing, Rhetoric and Discourse program.

FEEDING GLUTEN-FREE

A photographer with a mission

photography and recipe: Jennifer Reidy

Who is Jennifer Reidy? She’s got crazy fabulous hair, mad skills behind the lens and she developed a wonderful gluten-free blog after being diagnosed with celiac disease a few years ago. You can find her gluten-free recipes and photography at FeedingGlutenFree.com. And did we mention that she photographed our cover for this issue?

Tidbits About Jennifer

The ingredient she can’t live without is good California olive oil.

When she has a photo shoot at her home, she listens obsessively to One Republic songs.

One food she misses eating since her celiac disease diagnosis is King’s Hawaiian rolls over the holidays. (Right? They’re King’s Hawaiian rolls. Maybe she will eventually create a gluten-free Hawaiian roll, yes?)

The dish she savors in the summertime is her gluten-free pulled-pork recipe with homemade coleslaw. It’s the best.

Favorite quote: “Kid, you’ll move mountains.”—Dr. Seuss

Fried Tomatillo with Pesto

Olive oil, preferably from California Kosher salt Ground black peppercorns ½ cup all-purpose gluten-free flour 1 egg, whisked 2 tomatillos, husk removed, rinsed and sliced into 4–6 rounds

PESTO* 2 cups fresh basil leaves 3–4 garlic cloves ¾ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 3 tablespoons walnuts, chopped ¼–½ cup olive oil Salt and pepper Heat a skillet with enough olive oil to layer the bottom and fry tomatillo slices. Sprinkle a hefty pinch of salt and pepper into gluten-free flour and mix and place in bowl. In another bowl, whisk the egg. Dip tomatillo slices into egg mixture, then into gluten-free flour. Coat tomatillo slices on both sides. Shake off excess flour, then lay tomatillo slices in hot skillet to fry in batches. Fry on each side for about 2 minutes, or until crispy and golden brown. When finished, plate slices and let cool for 2–3 minutes. Drizzle pesto sauce all over and serve immediately.

*Pesto: Combine all pesto ingredients except olive oil in a mini food processor. Then slowly add the oil until mixed well. Process until a paste forms, adding more olive oil until it becomes thinner.

Visit EdibleIndy.com for Jennifer’s recipe for Easy Smashed Potatoes with Sun-Dried Tomatoes.

BENT ARROW ACRES

Join our Spring 2019 Chicken CSA and save big on pastured chicken and eggs this summer. Various share sizes available with monthly pickups in Howard and Hamilton counties. BentArrowAcres.com

INDIANAPOLIS CITY MARKET

In its 21st season, boasting 60+ seasonal vendors of fresh eggs, meats, cheeses, produce, honey, syrups, vegetable starts, flowers, baked goods and more! Live entertainment. Open Wednesdays, May–October, 9:30am–1:30pm 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis IndyCM.com

MARKET WAGON

Local food delivered. Shop online for local food and buy direct from local farms and artisans. No subscription required and no minimum orders. Market Wagon delivers every Thursday. MarketWagon.com

BROWNSBURG FARMERS MARKET

Presented by IU Health West Hospital. Features over 40 local vendors selling Indiana-grown and -produced products, music, food trucks and a kids club. WIC and SNAP accepted. Open Thursdays 4–7pm, June 6–Sept. 5 Brownsburg Town Hall Green 61 N. Green St., Brownsburg Brownsburg.org/FarmersMarket

Support your local farmers and producers by visiting these Local Farms & Farm Markets

#supportyourfarmer

HOOSIER HARVEST MARKET

This Indiana farmer–owned co-op offers a multi-farm CSA. Subscribe to support your local farms or buy weekly as needed. Order online for pickup Thursdays 4–7pm. HoosierHarvestMarket.com

KOKOMO DOWNTOWN FARMERS MARKET

Celebrating 16 seasons of the best in locally grown, handpicked, homemade, farm-fresh goodness. Live music and kids’ activities weekly! Accepts SNAP. Open Wednesdays, June 8–Sept. 21, 4–7pm; and Saturdays, May 7–Oct. 8, 9am–1pm. Mulberry & Washington, Kokomo KokomoFarmersMarket.com

NORTH CHURCH FARMERS MARKET

Formerly known as the 38th and Meridian Farmers Market, helps increase access to fresh produce in the Mid-North neighborhood. Market season runs June–Sept. Open first, third and fifth Thursdays 4–6:30pm. 3808 N. Meridian St., Indianapolis NorthChurchFarmersMarket.com

TUTTLE ORCHARDS

Celebrating 90+ years of providing top-quality produce, plants and agricultural experiences to visitors. Visit our farm store year-round with 200+ local Indiana items. Our café is open year-round. We have tours, events, a greenhouse and CSA program. 5717 N. County Rd. 300 W., Greenfield TuttleOrchards.com

TETER ORGANIC FARM

Raises sustainably grown, chemical-free vegetables and raw honey. Join our CSA program for an amazing selection of organic produce or find us at the Noblesville Farmers’ Market. 10980 E. 221st St., Noblesville TeterOrganicFarm.com

ZIONSVILLE FARMERS MARKET

Presented by IU Health North Hospital, this dog-friendly market features 40+ local vendors with artisan products, produce, baked goods, local flowers, cheeses and more. Weekly events. Open Saturdays, May 18–Sept 28, 8–11am. At Main & Hawthorne, Zionsville ZionsvilleFarmersMarket.org