Edible Indy Fall 2016 | No. 22 by Edible Indy

edible INDY

No. 22—A Legacy Issue

Celebrating the Bounty of Bloomington, Carmel, Columbus, Indianapolis and Beyond

Eat. Drink. Read. Think. Local.

Harvest 2016 Member of Edible Communities

edible INDY fall 2016

Contents 6 Tools

Three essential knives every cook needs

9 Mushrooms

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Recipes

14 Grow

Garlic: The great scape

16 Bake

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20 Farm

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24 Remedies

Spice Island Cocktail

Garlic Farm Legacy Scape Pesto Recipe

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Chipotle Black Bean Stuffed Delicata Squash

Pumpkin Spice Almond Butter

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Roasted Red Pepper, Tomato and Parsley Salad

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28 Celebrate

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40 Culture

High Holiday noshes for > iÜ Ã iÜ 9i>À

44 History

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edibleIndy.com

Hoosier Thoughts

edible INDY

he summer for us was wickedly hot, and now we are itching to feel the smoke of fall fires tickling our noses, the whiskey and cider warming our throats and bellies, and the satisfaction of harvesting our bounty to prepare for what the Farmers’ Almanac says will be a harsh Hoosier winter. This issue of Edible Indy will introduce you to a variety of unique fall recipes, including some inspired by the Jewish New Year. In these pages we also pour you a good sip of the history of Indiana distilling, and we learn some new things about garlic, turnips and so much more. Our goal is to fill you full of fall! We are humbled by the loveliness of our feature stories because they come from the heart of our writers and the lives of those living it. Our community is stacked full of beauty, love and dedication and we feel we are in the heart of it all. Thank you for allowing us give you what we think is our best issue yet!

PUBLISHER:

Rubenstein Hills LLC Jennifer Rubenstein CFO: Jeff Rubenstein MANAGING EDITOR: Rachel D. Russell COPY EDITOR: Doug Adrianson DESIGNER: Cheryl Angelina Koehler WEB DESIGNER: Edible Feast GRAPHICS: Caryn Scheving

EDITOR IN CHIEF:

ADVERTISING

Jennifer Rubenstein jennifer@edibleindy.com 317.489.9194

Please call or email to inquire about becoming a member of our advertising partnership and show your support for the local food culture in Central Indiana.

Hoosier Hugs,

EDIBLE INDY TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR

Market District

Jennifer & Jeff Rubenstein

EDIBLE INDY KNIFE SPONSOR

Ash Blæds

From the Editor

all is upon us. In Indiana, it’s our season of reprieve— coming after oppressive heat and before stifling cold. It’s festival time—full of apple dumplings, fudge, bridge festivals, dark-liquor cocktails, hot chocolate and flea markets. It’s a time to think about planting a garlic bulb or preparing for the holidays ahead with family and friends. We at Edible Indy hope you turn to us during every season— to learn about an event like The Feast of the Hunters’ Moon, or to meet a new baker who’d love to take you back to a special moment in your childhood kitchen with her favorite seasonal treats, or to learn about food and tradition during Jewish holidays. Happy fall to you and yours—and most of all, happy reading.

Faith Blackwell Photography

Edible Indy PO Box 155 Zionsville, Indiana 46077 317.489.9194 info@edibleindy.com Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November) with a 5th special edition issue in 2016. Distributed throughout Central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere. Subscriptions are $32 for one year and can be purchased online at EdibleIndy.com or by check to the address above. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food. Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us! Thank you.

All best,

Rachel D. Russell

Celebrating the Bounty of Bloomington, Carmel, Columbus, Indianapolis and Beyond

Feeding Our Community

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Eat. Drink. Read. Think. Eat. Drink. Read. Think.

Local.

Issue Fifteen

Spring 2015

Local.

Issue Sixteen

Summer 2015

Composting x Local Heroes x Rain Barrels x Soil Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

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Don’t get caught without your Edible Indy. Subscribe online or send a check. Subscriptions are $32 per year.

Celebrating the Bounty of Bloomington, Carmel, Columbus, Indianapolis and Beyond

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Issue Seventeen

Fall 2015

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NEWS

Joe’s Next Door Is Now Serving Up! BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN GRAPHIC BY CARYN SCHEVING

So, what’s the story of your favorite slicer? We’re talking that strong and steady knife that’s been an extension of your hand through holiday hosting and quiet nights in the kitchen. We want to know the nitty-gritty details of your knife’s history. Is it from your great-grandfather who fought in the Civil War? Is it the knife your mother used to slice fresh-baked bread for your after-school snack? Whatever its story, we’re interested. Edible Indy has partnered with Hoosier knife maker Ash Blaeds to bring you The Legacy of Your Knife contest. Contest: We want to restore your knife and bring it to life with Ash Blaeds. Share the story of your knife with us via the link provided for a chance to win. We want to know who owned the knife, how long it has been in your family, where it came from and your stories and memories associated with that knife. Be creative as creative wins! Prize: The most intriguing story will win a professional makeover from Ash Blaeds, to include: removing any rust and leaving the patina; thinning the edges and resharpening; sanding and sealing the handles or replacing the handles with new ones. Edible Indy will document the makeover with a story and photos in an upcoming issue. Entry Link: goo.gl/forms/IquNYfmrJg8lodLw2 Contest Rules • Open to current Indiana residents only. • Can to submit up to three stories per person. • Must include a photo of the knife with the story. • Submission timeframe: September 20– October 30, 2016. • Winner will be contacted by November 15, 2016. 4

edible INDY

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BY ROUNDPEG PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN

Joe Lazzara, owner of Joe’s Butcher Shop, knew offering prepared food was the next natural step for the development of his business. So now he’s gone and done it. “For over 10 years, Joe’s Butcher Shop and Fish Market built a reputation for the finest-quality local meats, fresh seafood and outJoe Lazzara, Owner standing service,” says Joe. “Preparing meals and providing takehome options is a natural way for us to extend our valued brand into the community we serve.” The 900-square-foot addition at 111 W. Main St. in Carmel features a kitchen for gourmet sandwiches and catered meals. The new Joe’s Next Door menu includes hot and cold sandwiches, freshly prepared entrees, sides and salads and perfectly portioned to-go meal kits. Customers can choose from a wide variety of ingredients to build custom sandwiches or pick up the ingredients to make chef-inspired dishes at home. The three-chef team—led by Chef Jon Radford, along with Chefs José Garcia and Danielle McQuoid—created a selection of offerings to reflect Joe’s high-quality ingredients and creative vision. All of the food prepared at Joe’s Next Door is thoughtfully handpicked by the team. Each sandwich on the menu was developed in a rigorous testing process. “There is no shortage of ideas here,” says Chef Jon. “There were more concepts than we knew what to do with. There will never be an end to the creativity in this group of people.” The Next Door team takes pride in innovation and relentless dedication to only the best products. Come by for a made-to-order sandwich—hot or cold—and take a look at the variety of fresh daily-made side dishes for the perfect complement to your midday meal. Chef Jon Radford

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Tools

Three Essential Knives Every Cook Needs

Making the Cut BY ASH BLAEDS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY PINHOLEIMAGEWORKS.COM

Chef Knife This is the knife you’ll use for 90% of the work in your kitchen, so pick one that is comfortable to you in both handle and blade length. If 6.5-inch petite chef feels right, go for that knife. If you prefer something bigger, try out a 10- to 12-inch, however the 8- to 8.5-inch is the typical Goldilocks zone for most folks. Ultimately, you have to use a knife that is comfortable to you, but remember that the more knife you have to use, the more efficient it will be at most tasks. This blade should be able to do the basic cutting movements on fruits, vegetables and proteins: slice, chop, dice, mince and some butchering.

*Wild Card: After you have a chef knife and paring knife, you really can pick any third knife that fits the needs of your kitchen. If you eat mostly vegetables, consider something like a nakiri (Japanese vegetable cleaver) for quickly chopping all sorts of veggies. If you eat a lot of meat, choose a boning knife. If you are a pescatarian, a fillet knife fits the bill here. And of course, if you just love a good loaf of fresh bread, a serrated bread knife is a good option for that third spot, though a thin, sharp knife can cut many softer breads without issue.

Expert Knife Care Tips from Ash Blaeds • •

Paring Knife This knife is meant to be used in the hand (not so much on a cutting board) for specific paring tasks that aren’t easy to accomplish with a larger chef knife. Look for 3- to 4-inch blade range, with thin steel for maximum efficiency in cutting. Since you’ll be doing things like peeling apples, coring strawberries, trimming broccoli, etc. up off the board, you want the knife to be thin and light.

•

Utility/Petty (Wild Card*) This knife bridges the gap, and in some ways overlaps with the chef and paring. Typically with thin blades in the 5- to 6-inch range, they are great for light-duty tasks like shaving garlic, chopping shallots and cutting herbs, and are great for breaking down anything from an anchovy to a chicken. They can even do some basic butchering and carving—a great all-around knife for when you just have one quick thing to cut, or if your chef knife is being used elsewhere and you don’t want to cross-contaminate food stuffs. 6

edible INDY

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•

Use a wooden cutting board, ideally end grain. Avoid granite, glass, steel, etc. as they will all dull your edge. Use a honing rod to maintain your edge between sharpening. Ceramic is best, but fine and smooth steel hones are also good options. Avoid coarse hones of any kind, and don’t use those drag-through sharpeners with carbide teeth. Those ruin your edge. Don’t put your knives in the dishwasher. Hand wash them, dry completely and store them in either a block or magnetic strip; anything to keep the edges from banging against other knives. If you have high-carbon, non-stainless blades, be sure to put a drop of oil on them before storing. Once you can no longer keep the edge as sharp as you’d like with your honing rod, take it to a professional sharpener, or learn how to sharpen it yourself. Don’t let them get so dull as to be unusable.

Ash Blaeds designs and builds beautiful custom knives for the kitchen and ﬁeld. They focus on the community, sustainability and education of ﬁnely handcrafted knives. To learn more visit AshBlaeds.com.

raised with care

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EAT DRINK LOCAL IN LAFAYETTE Catch the vibe, taste the ﬂavor in Lafayette–West Lafayette! Visit the downtown area to savor a variety of cuisines at delectable, locally owned restaurants, many of which are embracing the farm-to-table movement. While here, be sure to stroll through downtown, visit some of the many local galleries and shops, partake in a farmers’ market or festival, enjoy outdoor art or catch a show at one of our many theaters and nightlife venues. Whatever you decide, there is something to suit every palate. Visit HomeOfPurdue.com or ReadySetGoDowntown.com for more on what’s going on in downtown Lafayette–West Lafayette! 301 Frontage Rd., Lafayette HomeOfPurdue.com 800.872.6648

Bistro 501

Black Sparrow Pub

Bistro 501 has been the premier dining experience in downtown Lafayette for over 15 years, a place where locals and travelers banter over a beautiful Bordeaux or converse over award-winning cocktails. Whether you prefer wine on the patio or a ﬁreside dinner, our fresh menu will bring you in and our hospitality will bring you back. Located at the corner of 5th and Main Street in historic downtown Lafayette.

We are happy to oﬀer: whiskey, gin, tequila, craft cocktails, LOTS OF GOOD BOOZE, coasters, brick walls, art, PLEASING ASTHETIC, plates, silverware, unique pub food, seasonal dishes, DELICIOUS FARE, eclectic wines, ipas, sour ales, stouts, pilsners, domestics, ROTATING DRAFT & WINE SELECTION, staﬀ that loves all of these things. Cheers!

501 Main St., Lafayette Bistro501.com 765.432.4501

223 Main St., Lafayette BlackSparrowPub.com 765.429.0405

Cellar 422 Two sisters bring a love of delicious and aﬀordable wines from around the world to the Lafayette area. We oﬀer wines by the glass or bottle, to enjoy here or carry out, as well as a nice selection of craft beers. Enjoy fresh-made dishes that complement wine in a charming vintage atmosphere. 422 Main St., Lafayette 765.746.6754

Heirloom Heirloom Restaurant is a farm-to-table restaurant located in downtown Lafayette with a seasonal menu that supports local, sustainable agriculture. Regionally sourced artisan producers provide the best possible quality and freshness to your table. 102 N. 3rd St., Lafayette HeirloomIndiana.com 765.807.0422

La Scala

Restauration Restauration, from the same owners as La Scala, is focused on farm-to-table, seasonal eating. We make everything from whole ingredients, often local, even from our own farm. Very allergen and special diet friendly. Restoring authenticity to food from the ground up! 731 Main St., Lafayette RestaurationLafayette.com 765.250.3970

edible INDY

fall 2016

Greater Lafayette’s favorite Italian food, serving the community for 16 years. We are known for handcrafted dishes, local ingredients and a large selection. We even have our own farm. Eat fresh. Eat well. Eat local. 312 Main St., Lafayette LaScalaItalianRestaurant.com 765.420.8171

Mushrooms

Nature’s oddball edible takes center plate

Chef Steve Oakley, Oakley’s Bistro

Photography by Carole Topalian

hey are reclusive, elusive and mysterious. They are beautiful and ugly. They can be delectable or they can be deadly. The mushrooms of Central Indiana are anything but ordinary, and they’re a treasure trove if you’ve got the time, patience and passion to hunt or grow them. No one is ambivalent about mushrooms. Say the word to a group of people and half of them will lick their lips while the other half wrinkles their noses. But perhaps the nose-wrinklers are thinking of the lowly and relatively flavor-free button mushroom or, worse, the squishy “stems and pieces” drowning in liquid in a Green Giant can. Calling those “mushrooms” is like calling a crab stick fresh seafood. It’s just a whole ’nother talk show.

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More than Morels The rock stars of the wild mushroom world are Morels, and even non-mushroom-lovers can get excited about them. They herald spring like tulips and Easter bunnies. Generally served swimming in garlic and butter, adorning the top of a steak or simply on their own, morels have a unique, nutty flavor a person could really get hooked on if they weren’t so darned expensive and hard to find. But once morel season is over, is there really anything for fungus-loving folks to look forward to? The answer is yes, and the bounty coming from Central Indiana grows larger and more diverse all the time. Varieties such as Hen of the Woods (also known as edibleIndy.com

Photography by Carole Topalian

Want to learn how to safely hunt your own mushrooms? Check out HoosierMushrooms.org for a schedule of mushroom-hunting adventures with certiﬁed mycologist Stephen Russell.

Want to buy some mushrooms and cook them yourself? Go to your local farmers’ market and look for Annabelle’s Garden, Shamrock Farm or Micro Farms America. Pick up a pound of Lion’s Mane, Oyster or Hen of the Woods and cook them just as you would a lovely piece of fresh ﬁsh: Sauté them in butter and season lightly to let the full ﬂavor of the mushrooms come through.

Maitakes), Chanterelles, pink and blue Oysters and the latest darling of the mushroom scene, Lion’s Mane, are becoming regulars at local farmers’ markets and as chef ’s nightly specials. “They taste even better than they look,” said Chef Braedon Kellner of Tinker Street, talking about his new addiction, Lion’s Mane. I treat them like shellfish. Last year I got my hands on a one-pound of wild Lion’s Mane. It literally tasted like king crab to me. I sautéed it in butter, put it in the center of the plate and paired it with a poached egg, garlic confit and gremolata. It sold out in an hour.” Kellner is also wild about Hen of the Woods, which he compares to a rich, dark ale in flavor. “I’ve got a secret spot in Broad Ripple where I find Hen of the Woods the size of hubcaps,” he whispered. Steve Oakley, executive chef and owner of Oakley’s Bistro, prefers Oyster mushrooms. “I get them whenever I can,” he said. “I love the versatility and the meaty flavor and texture. You can grill them, marinate them, pickle them—they’ll stand up to just about anything.” One of his favorite creations featuring Oyster mushrooms was a riff on shrimp and grits, with a poached egg and Tasso ham, with the Oyster mushrooms standing in for the shrimp.

Good and Good For You It’s not just the flavor of these mushrooms that should be drawing you in. Mycologists (those who study mushrooms) also tout the health benefits of them. Lion’s Mane contains a compound used in Eastern medicine for nerve regeneration and to treat Alzheimer’s disease and dementia. Turkey Tail mushrooms are believed to have T-cell stimulating properties that help ward off viral infections and fight cancer. However, this doesn’t mean that you should just plunge headlong into the woods in search of dinner and a cure for what ails you. Many varieties look similar; some are edible and some are poisonous. So there’s that. “People text me pictures all the time, asking, ‘Can I eat this?’” said Eric Murphy, owner of Shamrock Farm, which is located about 20 miles outside of Indianapolis. “My answer is always, ‘Better not.’ If you’re not a certified mycologist and you have any question at all about what you’re picking, leave it alone.” Certified mycologist Stephen Russell seconds that. “There are somewhere around 3,000 species of mushrooms,” he said. “Only a small percentage of mushrooms are edible and only a small percentage are poisonous. The rest are just unpalatable.” Russell has authored a book called The Essential Guide to Cultivating Mushrooms. He also founded the Hoosier Mushroom Society in 2009, which leads organized mushroom hunting forays throughout the year. They also offer certification classes in which amateur foragers can become licensed to sell what they’ve found.

Photography by M. Peterson

Foraging versus Cultivating

edible INDY fall 2016

One way to be sure the fungi you’re about to eat is, in fact, edible is to buy them from a cultivator. At Shamrock Farm (in Arlington), Murphy cultivates about 300 pounds per week of Shiitake, Blue Oyster and Lion’s Mane and sells them to chefs across the city and at the farmers’ market. With remarkably short growing times—Oysters and Shiitakes mature in four to five days—he’s able to keep a fairly constant supply. And he plans to add a new building to exclusively cultivate Portabella mushrooms, because, due to their longer growing time, they “don’t play well with others.”

Shop the Farmers’ Market

Photography by Jennifer L. Rubenstein

E V E RY S AT U R D AY @ LAWRENCE NORTH HIGH

8AM TO NOON marketathague.com

Bloomington-based Micro Farms America produces around 2,500 pounds per year of Oyster mushrooms alone. “This is an incredibly complex process,” said owner C. Virgil Carrington. “Mold or bacteria can wipe out an entire crop and we grow everything here with no pesticide, herbicide or fungicide. We even grow our own media for cultivation—grasses, buckwheat and corn. It’s very labor intensive.” Carrington sells at the Bean Blossom Farmers’ Market in Bloomington and wholesales both fresh and dehydrated product to Lucky’s Market and Blooming Foods (both also located in Bloomington). Due to the popularity of mushrooms in hearty cool-weather dishes and holiday menus, fall is the busiest time for them—so much so that growers struggle to keep up with the demand and take the winter months off to regroup, upgrade and prepare for spring. But for those with the time, training and patience to venture out, foraging has its rewards. “I’ve got two gals in the woods in Brown County right now,” said Joshua Horrigan, owner of Annabelle’s Garden. “We find amazing mushrooms around Eagle Creek, too. Chicken of the Woods, Puff Balls, Wood Ear, Lion’s Mane, Maitake and Indigo Milk Caps are all pretty prolific in Indiana. My daughter Annabelle and I once found 300 pounds of Chicken of the Woods in one day.” And, as with most things, technology is beginning to play a role in foraging. “I’m actually tinkering with foraging with my drone,” said Horrigan. “I’ve programmed in the color of yellow Chanterelles. It found everything I hid in my backyard, so I’m going to try taking it out into the woods.” So whether you choose to enjoy the bounty of carefully cultivated mushrooms from one of our local growers or the wild taste of hardwon foraged fungi from Indiana’s woodlands, the earthy delights of fall mushrooms abound, and deserve a spot on the center of your plate. Karen Kennedy, the Circle City’s “Maven of Merriment,” is an Indianapolis-based food writer with over 25 years’ experience in the hospitality industry in Indiana, Chicago and Vermont. She loves nothing more than a party, and is the owner of Small Potatoes, a catering and event planning company specializing in unique, creative, custom hors d’oeuvres receptions and small dinner parties.

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eat LOCAL buy local at these fall farmers markets Noblesville Main Street Farmers’ Market Join us for the oldest and largest farmers’ market in Hamilton County, with more than 80 vendors featuring local artisan products, produce and more! This is the last year the event will be located in the overﬂow lot of Riverview Health. Visit Facebook page or website for information on event days. 839 Conner St. Noblesville May 7–Oct. 15 Saturday 8am–noon Accepts: SNAP, WIC

Kokomo Downtown Farmers’ Market The Kokomo Downtown Farmers’ Market is celebrating its 15th season of providing the best in locally grown, handpicked, homemade, farm-fresh goodness to our community. Live music and kids’ activities weekly! At the intersection of Mulberry & Washington streets June 8–Sept. 21, Wednesday 4–7pm May 7–Oct. 8, Saturday 9am–1pm KokomoFarmersMarket.com Accepts: SNAP

JCC Farmers’ Market Shop for fresh local produce, baked goods and dairy products at the JCC’s yearround farmers market, Indy’s only regularly scheduled farmers’ market on Sundays. 6701 Hoover Rd. Indianapolis Sunday 10am–1:30pm JCCIndy.org Accepts: SNAP

edible INDY fall 2016

It’s time to move the nutmeg from spice cupboard to bar cart

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his fragrant spice is fantastic in fall cocktails—especially as garnish—where it wafts in with every sip. For Baylee Pruitt, a bartender at Cardinal Spirits, the craft distillery and cocktail bar in Bloomington, a dusting of nutmeg is the ideal topping for her Spice Island cocktail, which crisply combines light rum and tart apples with other fall flavors of cinnamon, raisin and brown sugar. Pass on the powdery, pre-grated stuff, she says, and buy whole nutmeg seeds instead—they’re right there in the spice aisle, or sometimes in the bulk area. Give the whole seed a few scrapes on a microplane grater right over the glass, softly dusting the entire surface of the cocktail

SPICE ISLAND By Baylee Pruitt of Cardinal Spirits Makes 1 cocktail 4 slices Pink Lady apple ½ ounce Raisin–Brown Sugar Simple Syrup (recipe follows)* 2 ounces light rum ½ ounce fresh lemon juice 1 dash cinnamon bitters 1 dash Angostura bitters Ice Freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish Place apples and Raisin–Brown Sugar Simple Syrup in a shaker. Muddle. Add rum, lemon juice, both bitters and ice. Shake vigorously. Double-strain into an Old Fashioned glass ﬁlled with ice. Grate fresh nutmeg on top of the cocktail to garnish. * To make Raisin–Brown Sugar Simple Syrup: In a saucepan, combine 1 cup brown sugar, ¾ cup water and / cup raisins. Heat until simmering, muddling the raisins as it cooks. Cool completely. Strain before using.

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Grow

One of fall’s foremost flavors BY JO ELLEN MEYERS SHARP PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLE TOPALIAN GRAPHIC BY CARYN SCHEVING

ay “fall bulb planting” and most people think tulips, daffodils and other spring-bloomers. If garlic is one of your favorite flavors, add that to the list. There are two types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Most of what we see in supermarkets is softneck (Allium sativum sativum), which is grown where winters are mild, such as Gilroy, California, which calls itself the Garlic Capital of the World. Softneck garlic can be stored up to a year. Because the necks are soft, this is the garlic people like to braid. It does not form scapes. Some varieties of softneck garlic may be hardy in Central and Southern Indiana. But fall-planted hardneck garlic (Allium sativum ophioscorodon) is what’s recommended for Midwestern gardeners. Hardneck has a woody flower stalk and is best used within six to nine months after harvesting. Chefs and others say hardneck garlic’s flavor is rich and complex. Then, there’s elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum), which is not a true garlic but is more closely related to leeks. It’s best to not use garlic purchased in the produce section of the grocery store for planting. First, it’s softneck, and second, it may have been treated with a chemical to keep it from sprouting. It’s best to use bulbs sold as seed garlic. Some garden centers, farmers’ markets and online retailers offer seed garlic for fall planting. The bulb is broken into cloves, and each clove planted yields a new bulb for harvest. Once harvested, gardeners may save a bulb or two for replanting in fall.

When to Plant In Central Indiana, garlic is planted mid-September to mid-October. The following spring, it sprouts tasty top growth, called scapes, and the bulb is harvested in early to midsummer.

Where to Plant Select a sunny area that has well-drained, organically rich soil. Plant the cloves, pointy end up, about two inches deep and four inches apart. Cover the cloves with soil and water well. There’s no need to mulch because hardneck garlic is fully winter hardy. However, a light mulch of chopped leaves or straw will help reduce weeds. Garlic is a poor competitor to weeds, so this fall and next spring and summer be sure to keep the area free of these nutrient-robbing plants.

When Scapes Emerge Next spring, scapes will emerge from the soil and curl into beautiful green sculptures. When the scapes appear, apply an all-purpose granular organic fertilizer, such as Espoma or Jobe’s. If left on the plant, the scapes get woody and sap energy from the bulb, reducing its size. Most gardeners remove the scapes, cutting them off at the soil line. Use the scapes in recipes that highlight their mild, sweet flavor. Eventually, new leaves will emerge and those can be left attached to the bulb. In summer, when you notice a few of the lower leaves have turned brown, harvest the garlic. If you harvest too early, the bulbs will be small. If you harvest too late, the protective skin, called a tunic, may be missing, which shortens their storage life.

Pulling, Cleaning, Drying and Storing

Jo Ellen Meyers Sharp, who prefers shallots to garlic, is treasurer of Garden Writers Association and co-author of The Indiana Gardener’s Guide. She blogs at HoosierGardener.com. 14

edible INDY fall 2016

Hardneck garlic frequently can be pulled from the ground. If it doesn’t come easily, gently loosen the soil with a garden fork or spade and lift the bulbs. Be careful not to bruise the bulbs as bruising shortens their storage life. Gently brush or rinse the soil from the bulb. Place bulbs with stalks attached on a framed screen, crate or other surface that allows good air circulation. The air should be cool and the device out of direct sun. It may take about two weeks for the garlic to dry. Once dry, remove the stalk and roots, and store in a cool (not freezing), dry area, such as a garage or basement.

Garlic Farm Legacy Scape Pesto Recipe Recipe courtesy of The Garlic Farm, West Granby, CT ¼ pound roughly chopped scapes ½ cup olive oil 1–2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice, adjusted to taste 1 cup (or less) freshly grated Parmesan cheese or other sharp Italian cheese Salt to taste Purée scapes, olive oil and juice in a blender or food processor until nearly smooth. (You can make a smooth paste if you prefer, but most people like a little texture in the pesto.) Gently stir in the cheese or gingerly pulse the cheese into the mixture; take it easy as you mix in the cheese to avoid making the pesto gummy by over blending. Taste and then adjust juice and salt to taste. Store in the refrigerator to use within 2 or 3 days. Freeze in airtight container for longer storage. When frozen, scape pesto holds its appealing green color better than the well-known basil-based pesto Genovese.

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Bake

A conversation with Chef Rebecca Miller

Cake Loves Everybody 9 ,Ƃ ° ,1-- * "/" ,Ƃ* 9 9 , ° ,1

In a world that’s falling apart, it’s nice to say that cake is the same on the inside and outside, it doesn’t matter what flavor it is … it’s gonna love you anyways. —Chef Rebecca Miller 16

edible INDY fall 2016

here’s a lot of hubbub over chefs these days. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying there shouldn’t be, but usually the most attention is paid to the kind who make your brunch and braise your ribs. But when I go out to eat, my first question is: What desserts do you have? (I need this crucial information in order to plan how much I want to eat on my way to dessert.) My second question: Where do they come from? It’s shocking to learn that often they come off a truck and are merely unwrapped and thawed before being sold. And if a restaurant actually makes it past my second question with a local name, then I have to know: Who made them? To me, dessert is what brings a meal all together, even though it’s often perceived as the afterthought, the indulgence, not something we need to eat to survive. Pie and donut shops, bakeries, pastry shops, cupcakeries (if that’s not a word, I just made it one)— these are the places where my favorite people make sweet treats that complete dinner, complete conversations between those enjoying them, complete me. And in downtown Indianapolis, at Frona Mae Dessert Café, you’ll find Chef Rebecca Miller creating these completions. This café, named after one of the owner’s grandmothers, features a wide range of desserts. It also offers salads, sandwiches, soups, coffees, teas and don’t forget beer, wine and champagne. The inside of the café offers a fresh and quiet open space to enjoy lunch and sweets, while allowing guests to watch the busy city life outside on Washington Street. Behind all of her artful and delicious baked goodness, there’s a twenty-something woman in there from California making her way in a smaller city. And she was kind enough to sit down with me and chat about who she is, where she’s from and why baking and desserts matter.

Edible Indy: Where are you from? Chef Rebecca: Newark, California. It’s in the San Francisco Bay Area. There is a Newark in every state; I learned that in elementary school.

cÌ À â ÌØ«ÌÏkÀkÌ |Øk YkÌ å ØÀÌ ÌÎ ÌOA kÌ ÌY ¶ Not really. I actually always wanted to be a marine biologist. And I have a biology degree, but baking and cooking has always been my stress reliever. My poor college roommates probably had more cookies than they would’ve liked.

How did you end up here in Indy? My dad was transferred here eight years ago, and through that summer I worked at Chili’s, trying to figure out what I wanted to do, and I got a substitute teacher job at Lynhurst in Wayne Township [Indianapolis]. I worked as their building sub for, like, four years. Two years in I decided it was very stressful and clearly not what I wanted to do, so I stayed a sub while I went to the Culinary Institute of America.

: AÎÌâAÄÌå ØÀÌzÀÄÎÌ OÌ ØÎÌ yÌ YØ AÀåÌÄY ¶Ì Great Harvest Bakery in Carmel.

: k Ìå ØÌâk ÎÌÎ ÌYØ AÀåÌÄY `Ì c cÌå ØÌÄ«kY A ékÌ ÌOA ¶Ì Yes, I have a pastry arts certificate.

âÌâ Ø cÌå ØÌckÄYÀ OkÌÏkÌ c yykÀk YkÌOkÎâl Ì«AÄÎÀ kÄÌA cÌ baked goods? They’re both very technical, but with baking, if you can read a recipe you can typically follow a baking recipe. Whereas with pastry arts you’re learning the techniques on how to fondant and how to correctly ice a cake, the difference between a celebration cake and a wedding cake, or you’re learning how to make a chocolate or sugar sculpture.

: k Ìå ØÌÄÎAÀÎkcÌYØ AÀåÌÄY `Ì

did you know you wanted to go ÏkÌ«AÄÎÀåÌAÀÎÄÌÀ ØÎk¶ Yes. I’m a really good cook and I know I’m one of those that just likes to throw things together and see if this flavor goes with that flavor, so I’m pretty good with my flavors.

Where did you go after Great Harvest? I left there after seven months and ended up at Ocean Prime. I was there for threeand-a-half years.

: AÎÌc cÌå ØÌ kÌAO ØÎÌâ Ì ÏkÀk¶ I loved everything about working there. The way that Cameron Mitchell has it set up for his employees is amazing. It’s definitely associates first. If they’re treated well then your guests will be treated well.

cÌ âÌc cÌå ØÌz cÌ ØÎÌAO ØÎÌ Á AÌ Ak¶

Meringue can be a pain in the butt. Especially when it’s hot and sticky and muggy. I had to make so much meringue at Ocean Prime. They do a baked Alaska and you have to have meringue all of the time and when it’s hot and muggy and sticky, egg whites just don’t want to whip.

: AÎ½ÄÌå ØÀÌyAß ÎkÌ«AÄÎÀåÌÎ Ì make? Depends on my mood.

How about when you’re happy? I make pretty things. On Saturday, I ended up basket-weaving an entire cake.

And when you’re sad? Probably the butter cookie recipe. It was the first cookie recipe that I ever memorized because it’s the cookie recipe that my mom and I make every Christmas. They would make me happier because I love Christmas.

: AÎ½ÄÌå ØÀÌyAß ÎkÌ«AÄÎÀåÌÎ ÌkAÎ¶

I found this through Craigslist. I answered [owner Doug Huntley’s] ad and met him here when this place was just empty space. I interviewed in April of last year, didn’t hear from him for a while, and then knew by September I was the one he wanted. I started in October.

I am definitely a try-anything-once girl, but I like a good fudgy brownie. And I love bread. I love crispy sourdough from San Francisco. Or a baguette.

âÌ Ì AÄÌ Á AÌ AkÌOl Ì open?

Well, teaching is my passion. My dream would be someday to open not only a pastry school but a culinary school, to teach kids and people who maybe have lost their spouse and don’t know how to cook for themselves, or college kids who are just starting out and don’t know how to cook for themselves, how to cook for one person and do it nutritionally. I like teaching people that cooking from scratch is not as hard as you think it is.

Since November 2, 2015.

I’m going to say a series of â cÄ°Ì, kAÄkÌÎk Ì kÌâ AÎÌ Y kÄÌÎ Ìå ØÀÌ cr Fondant? Yuck.

, å Ìc Ø ¶ I love phyllo dough.

kÀ Øk¶

Aß ÎkÌ«AÄÎÀåÌÎ ÌÎkAY Ì«k « kÌÎ Ì make?

: AÎ½ÄÌÏkÌ ÄÎ ÀkµØkÄÎkcÌ dessert here? Sugar cream pie, which I had never made until I worked here. It’s made with a butter shortening crust.

edibleIndy.com

Southeast Indiana - Dearborn County

From Our Farms To Your Table...

If you could go to one « AYkÌy ÌÌckÄÄkÀÎ`ÌÏÌAÎ½ÄÌ ÎÌ Á AÌ Ak`Ìâ kÀkÌâ Ø cÌ you go? I would go to Fentons [ice cream] in Oakland, California. It’s iconic. But here, I would go to Wileypalooza in Brownsburg.

: Ì ÄÌå ØÀÌ«AÄÎÀåÌY kyÌ Ä« ÀAÎ ¶Ì

ome Shopping! COrchards, Farms & Markets : Greystone Family Farm Lawrenceburg, Indiana

: Beiersdorfer Orchard Guilford, Indiana

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Specialty Spirits : Great Crescent Brewery Aurora, Indiana

: At the Barn Winery Logan, Indiana

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: AÎ½ÄÌå ØÀÌyAß Ì ÎkÌ ÎY k Ì Ac kÎ¶ KitchenAid mixer. I hate whisking by hand. It’s a pain!

: AÎ½ÄÌå ØÀÌyAß Ì ÎkÌckÄÄkÀÎÌ Ì Ä«À `ÌÄØ kÀ`ÌyA Ì`Ìâ ÎkÀ¶ Spring is fruit—those early, fresh strawberries that are still tart and you can pair them with rhubarb. Summer is fresh fruit with angel food cake. Fall would be pumpkin anything. Winter has to be chocolate and peppermint. Our dark chocolate crème brûlée here is amazing and I don’t even like crème brûlée.

: Holtkamp Winery

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I think of a few: Julia Child. Jacques Torres. Ron Ben-Israel. The last guy can take a picture of someone’s wedding dress and turn it into a wedding cake.

edible INDY fall 2016

The entire menu, for the most part. There are a few things we keep on that are based on Frona Mae, like the sugar cream pie, and we use Doug’s [the owner’s] recipe for crème brûlée, and we base the upside-down cake on Frona Mae’s. I like to take older recipes and update them. The bread pudding is my grandma’s recipe. She is one who would just soak it in milk

or would make a rum sauce, but making the red wine berry reduction is different and I do that. It’s a mashup of old and new.

: AÎÌAÀkÌÄ kÌ ØÎk yÀlÌÌ yykÀ ÄÌ kÀkÌAÎÌ Á AÌ Ak¶ Key lime pie, crème brûlée and at least one flavor of macarons.

: AÎÌc kÄÌå ØÀÌyØÎØÀkÌ Ì k¶Ì : ÌÌ ÎÌY Î ØkÌÎ ÌOkÌ Ì«AÄÎÀ kÄ¶ I see pastries, but my goal one day would be to open a school for children or anyone who wants to learn to cook for themselves. The path that takes me there is in God’s hands at the moment. Rachel D. Russell is the managing editor of Edible Indy. She has a passion for food, second only to writing, and enjoys hearing about how food has shaped lives. She is always interested in comments and ideas for new stories. She can be reached at editor@edibleindy.com.

Editor’s Note: Since this story was written, Chef Rebecca Miller has moved on to another job with the hopes of opening up an Indiana cooking school in the future. Chef Erica Haines is now the acting executive chef of Frona Mae.

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Farm

Peaper Brothers champions humble veggie for five generations

Turnip Awareness 9 Ƃ, /9 - /" ,Ƃ * "/" ,Ƃ* 9 9 Ƃ/ , - ,"

edible INDY fall 2016

ake a bite into a Peaper Brothers turnip, and it’s all crunch and sweetness. I know, because Paul W. Peaper himself peeled back the purple skin of one the turnips grown on his family farm, sliced it into bite-sized pieces and handed one to me to try when I visited their farm recently. “Ummm, it’s sweet,” I said, and Paul smiled. Because it was one thing for him to try to describe what makes the Peaper heirloom turnips different. It was another to see the look on my face, the look he sees over and over when people realize these are not their grandparents’ turnips. The Peaper turnips are Paul’s grandparents’ turnips, though. The story of the Peaper Brothers farm begins nearly 150 years ago when William Pieper and Henrietta Wegherst emigrated from Germany to begin new lives in the United States. Though they came separately they met in Indianapolis, where they were later married on August 17, 1877. William and Henrietta established a garden business on five or six acres on what is now known as Pleasant Run Boulevard. They, along with their sons, Fred and Chris, grew a variety of vegetables at that location until 1909, when they purchased 26 acres on Bluff Road and relocated the business. The current Peaper Brothers Farm continues in the Bluff Road location today, just four and a half miles south of downtown Indianapolis. Under the leadership of Fred and Chris, the Peapers primarily grew hothouse vegetables—tomatoes and lettuces—and joined Paul Peaper (left) and Mike Kocher forces with other local vegetable growers to form the Marion County Greenhouse Growpacking. Harvest season, especially the larger fall harvest, necessitates ers Association. Together, they sold vegetables under the “Hoosier the most workers. Boy” brand. Once harvested, Peaper turnips can stay in cold storage for up to After the end of World War II, the third generation of Peapers six months. Employees move the turnips straight from the field— took over the family business: Fred’s son, Herb, and Chris’ sons, Fred where they are hand-harvested—to 20-bushel wooden crates in the and Paul. Under the leadership of the new generation, the farm berefrigerated warehouse right on the farm with the dirt still clinging to gan to mass produce the purple-top turnips by implementing row the stubbled top and roots. cropping and root cellars and eventually expanding through the use When Peaper Brothers gets an order from one of the wholesalers of a new cold storage system and warehouse packing facility. they work with—Midwest companies like Indianapolis Fruit, Eventually, health difficulties for Herb and Paul created the need Castellini, Piazza Produce and Horton Fruit Company—they bring for the fourth generation of Peapers to take over the farm, including the turnips out of cold storage and into the washer. The turnips are Paul’s son, Paul W., and son-in-law, Ron Kocher. In 1987, Peaper then graded, bagged and stacked on pallets. Through the various Brothers was incorporated, and today, Mike Kocher, Ron’s son, has wholesalers, Peapers’ products end up in groceries and restaurants as joined Paul W. as the fifth generation of Peapers to own and operate far away as New Jersey and Georgia, and as close as local Marsh and the business. Ron and his wife, Mary (Peaper) Kocher, also are still an Meijer supermarkets in Indiana. Another 10,000 pounds of off-grade active part of the day-to-day operations of Peaper Brothers. turnips are donated to Gleaners Food Bank, as well as the many more In addition to the three full-time employees—Paul W., Mike, that are damaged or unable to be consumed by humans and are sold Mary and other family members who help out as needed—Peaper for pennies on the dollar to local cattle farmers. Brothers employs as many as 15–20 seasonal employees during the “That’s the thing with farming: You never know what’s going to spring and fall to help with all aspects of their farm from planting to edibleIndy.com

edible INDY fall 2016

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sell,” Paul W. said. “We put the turnips in cold storage, and they can stay there until February or maybe even as late as April. But the longer they’re in cold storage, the more you lose because of evaporation and shrinkage. The more we sell fresh, the better.” When I asked him what’s changed over the years at Peaper Brothers, Paul W. shrugged and said, “Not much.” It’s true: Peaper Brothers has been known for their turnips since the middle of the 20th century, and turnips are still the mainstay of the business. They haven’t gone the way of farm markets or direct sales to restaurants or grocery retailers, either. The cold storage system and warehouse packing facility still operate mostly the same as when they were built, too. But the hothouses are gone now, and instead of irrigation the Peapers use an eco-friendly raised-bed plastic covering with drip tape to water the roots of plants instead of the whole field. Also, the Peapers don’t rely on turnips as much as they used to. Part of that is the Peapers’ desire to grow a greater variety of crops to meet the ever-changing needs of the consumer: peppers, kale, cabbage and winter squashes. The other part, though, is the declining popularity, or even familiarity, with the turnip. “When I tell people we grow turnips, I usually get three responses,” Mike told me during my visit. “Either ‘What’s a turnip?’ or ‘I’ve never eaten a turnip’” or “‘Oh yeah, I’ve had a turnip; my grandma used to make them.’” For that reason, “turnip awareness” is one of Mike’s business development priorities, including taking cut-up raw turnips, his favorite way to eat them, to his daughters’ school, and even teaming up with Lori Taylor, The Produce Mom, to talk about the purple root vegetable most people think they don’t like. According to Paul, the distaste may be because of the way it was cooked—“most people remember them as mushy and maybe bitter”—or the way it was grown. Peaper turnips are grown and harvested only in the spring or fall. With a 50- to 60-day growing season, the vegetables are planted either in March or August, and harvested no later than June or November, before the heat or cold can change their taste or composition. Indiana weather, along with the rich Hoosier soil, means turnips grown elsewhere might not taste like a Peaper. “The tastes gets what I call pithier, or hotter, in other climates,” Paul said. “Ours are sweet and moist. It’s one of our tricks of the trade.” In the future, Mike envisions raw turnips being sold in individual snack packs or as part of a veggie tray, though the logistics to make that happen as part of their own operations are not feasible at this time. “Selling whole is different than selling sliced or processed,” Mike said. “There are more hoops to jump through with the USDA and food safety rules.” For now, the Peapers carry on with their planting and harvesting. They continue to look for more wholesale distributors to partner with. And they hope for continued success of the Peaper turnips and all their produce so they can pass along a productive and vibrant operation to the sixth generation of Peapers when that day comes.

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Charity Singleton Craig is a freelance writer from Frankfort, Indiana, and the coauthor of On Being a Writer: 12 Simple Habits for a Writing Life That Lasts. She enjoys running, reading and cooking dinner for her family.

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Opposite: Peaper Turnips in cold storage can last up to six months.

November 8

Charcuterie for the holidays: Wowing your guests with meats, cheeses & condiments

Featuring: Smoking Goose

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Remedies

Reconnecting with Mother Earth

Just a Spoonful of Herbal Remedies 9 7

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-/ | ,Ƃ* - 9 Ƃ,9 - 6

And on the banks, on both sides of the river, there will grow all kinds of trees for food. Their leaves will not wither, nor their fruit fail, but they will bear fresh fruit every month, because the water for them flows from the sanctuary. Their fruit will be for food, and their leaves for healing. —Ezekiel 47:12

edible INDY fall 2016

n an awakening world, there’s a surge of desire—a longing to return to Mother Earth for healing and medicine. Herbal medicine is widely accepted as modern society grasps its worth for preventing and treating disease, and creating whole health. What’s old is new again as Americans reconnect with Mother Earth seeking to renew, revitalize and restore their bodies, minds and souls, rather than turning to pharmaceutical drugs that advertise dire side effects. Orthomolecular Medicine News Service reported that “Americans take more than 60 billion doses of nutritional herbal (botanical) supplements annually with zero related deaths.” Since man first stood upright, Mother Earth has generously provided us with organic natural remedies. Often dismissed as quackery, herbal remedies are deeply rooted in medical history. Since time immemorial, herbal medicine has been used by many diverse cultures throughout the world to treat illness and assist physiological functions. As early as 3000 BC, ancient Chinese and Egyptian writings describe medicinal uses for plants. Ancient doctors methodically collected information about herbs and developed distinct pharmacopoeias (written protocols) to treat a variety of ailments. Today, nearly a quarter of pharma drugs are derived from plants and nearly 80% of the world uses botanicals for some aspect of primary health care. America, not so much, but that’s changing. From mint to marijuana, there are hundreds of botanicals that serve many vital medicinal and health purposes. Potent medical plants you’re likely to find in the wilderness of your backyard can be used for anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, anti-cancer, insect repellent, antiseptic, expectorant, antibacterial, detoxifying, fever reduction or antihistamine purposes. In the United States, more than 1,500 botanicals are sold as dietary supplements; top-selling plants include echinacea, lavender, frankincense, turmeric, peppermint, garlic, goldenseal, ginseng, Reishi and Maitake mushrooms, ginkgo, saw palmetto, aloe, valerian, green tea, ephedra, Siberian ginseng, marigolds and cranberry. Herbal remedies in the form of extracts, tinctures, capsules, tablets and teas address

a constellation of maladies such as allergies, cancer, inflammation, asthma, eczema, premenstrual syndrome, rheumatoid arthritis, fibromyalgia, migraine, menopausal symptoms, chronic fatigue, irritable bowel syndrome and cancer. Herbal tinctures, elixirs and essential oils use plant seeds, berries, roots, bark or flowers. While herbal medicine is not a licensed profession in the U.S., herbal remedies in the form of extracts, tinctures, capsules, teas and tablets may be recommended by health care practitioners of various disciplines as a gentler, more natural way to address a wide variety of largely preventable medical conditions. For example, marigold or calendula has been employed medicinally for centuries to treat conjunctivitis, blepharitis, eczema, gastritis, minor burns including sunburns, warts and minor injuries such as sprains and wounds, cramps, coughs and snake bites. Calendula’s high content of flavonoids act as antioxidants known to protect cells from damage caused by oxidation. Oxidation produces oxygen free radicals, which are natural chemicals that may suppress immune function. Calming chamomile tea treats anxiety, cramping and muscle pain. Echinacea, from the coneflower, was used centuries ago by Native Americans; today many take echinacea to help fight off colds as it has been touted to boost immune response. Ginkgo, or ginkgo biloba, improves circulation and brain activity. Ginseng has been used for thousands of years as a natural energy boost, St. John’s Wort as an herbal alternative to prescription medications for relieving anxiety and depression. Elixirs, crafted with a bit more presence, differ from smoothies. The herbal elixirs created in the raw living food and longevity lifestyle community involve multiple steps and an intention behind them such as supporting the immune system, building stronger bones, speed-bumping the aging process, encouraging hair and nail growth or keeping hair from losing its color. Most tinctures are percolated or macerated. Generated thousands of years ago, liquid extracts are still a favorite naturopathic medicine today. Steeping the fresh or dried herb in a solution of food-grade edibleIndy.com

alcohol before straining makes tinctures. The alcohol exin extracts or tinctures and have questions? Ask a professional tracts both the oil- and water-based medicinal properties. or inquire at your locally owned whole-foods grocery and viThe benefits of tinctures over other forms of herbal medtamin professionals like Good Earth Natural Foods, Georgeicine are that they are concentrated, easy to dispense, town Market and Nature’s Pharm. easy to take, rapidly absorbed, easy on the tummy Incorporating herbal tinctures into your lifestyle and have a very long shelf life. Tinctures can be is easy, as natural as breathing, safe, fast-acting added to juices, elixirs, water, smoothies and and gentle on your delicate ecosystem. The teas and can vary in doses depending on the heavenly bounty from Mother Earth’s celestial herb and health concern. apothecary was created to sustain humanity. Looking for a local taste of what Mother Now is the perfect time to return and reconregarding a particular herb Earth has to offer? nect to the verdant garden we ought to have being used in extracts or Indianapolis’ Georgetown Market offers never forsaken. tinctures and have questions? wheat grass shooters with a juice chaser and a This article is for informational purposes lemon-ginger-turmeric elixir when you feel a only and should not be considered medical Ask a professional; cold coming on. advice. Always consult with a medical profesconfab with your locally owned Can’t sleep? Make a sleep elixir using eight sional before starting a new health regimen. wholefoods grocery & vitamin ounces hot water and dried chamomile flowprofessionals like Bloomingfoods, ers to fill one sachet and a ½-inch knob of Good Earth Natural Foods, Chef Wendell Fowler, vegetarian elder of our crushed fresh ginger. Georgetown Market community, is a motivational speaker and lecturer, and Nature’s Pharm. Need to detox your quivering liver? Try WISH-TV host, syndicated food journalist and author. eight ounces hot water, ⅛ teaspoon turmeric Overcoming obesity, self-abuse and terminal heart and juice of half a lemon. disease, Chef Wendell is on Hippocratic mission to get Hoosiers to support and eat more fresh, local foods. You Ezra’s Enlightened Café also offers potent can contact him at chefwendellfowler@gmail.com, shooters of turmeric and ginger juice and a variChefWendell.com, facebook.com/wendell.fowler.16 and ety of herbal elixir beverages and shots. twitter.com/wendellfowler. Insecure regarding a particular herb being used

INSECURE

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edible INDY fall 2016

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Celebrate

Bringing history to life on the banks of the Wabash

The Feast of the Hunters’ Moon BY LISA BANU | PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY VISIT LAFAYETTE-WEST LAFAYETTE

n 1717, the French government established Fort Ouiatenon on the banks of the Wabash River in Lafayette. Now, almost 300 years later, it is the site of the Feast of the Hunters’ Moon, a festival that re-creates 18th century fall fur trade gatherings between Native Americans and the French. Organized by the Tippecanoe County Historical Association, on average it attracts 40,000 people and has evolved into a highly anticipated annual event celebrating the spirit of cultural exchange. The Hunters’ Moon refers to the Miami calendar and is typically scheduled on the first weekend of October. This year “The Feast,” as it is locally known, is scheduled for October 1 and 2. I met with The Feast coordinator Leslie Martin Conwell, who spoke of the event’s almost 50-year history. She explained the important role of local nonprofit organizations, the extensive guidelines involved in setting up the food booths, as well as the archeological content of the site that was excavated between 1968 and 1979 under the guidance of archeologists from Indiana University and Michigan State University. Recovered artifacts include china, jewelry, metalwork, animal bones, seeds, utensils, pottery and more. There is still much to be learned about this period of European and Native interaction from Fort Ouiatenon since less than one tenth of the site has been excavated. By inviting the community to share in local history, the Tippecanoe Historical Association draws from an archeological depth and aims to build a collective future based on complex lessons of trade and strife. Local nonprofits that run the booths represent a wide range of community services, age groups and educational commitments. These social, historical and gastronomic convergences make local history an evolving story, Conwell says: “The Feast acknowledges that culture is ongoing.” For me, at least three reasons make The Feast a worthy fall road trip:

Reason Number 3: History The living history and staging of The Feast help us imagine a time when Native American tribes—like the Potawami, the Miami and the Shawnee—interacted with the French. The food, clothing and traded goods help re-create a bustling atmosphere of welcomed commerce. Today, it is difficult for us to see the importance of Lafayette as a shipping center and the Wabash River as a major trade route 28

edible INDY fall 2016

connecting the state within and beyond. At The Feast we can gather ourselves back on the banks of the Wabash like all who traded in this area before us. We look for the same things they did: something useful, pretty or tasty. The event reminds us that, like those who lived here in the past, we make our story every day through what we buy, eat and share with each other, and history is not limited to explosive decisive battles. It makes me wonder who will be gathering at the site 300 years from now—and, of course, what will they eat?

Reason Number 2: Community While we might imagine the community that converged on the banks of the Wabash 300 years in the past and the community that might gather in the future, it is contemporary community that is most celebrated at The Feast. When talking about the event, coordinator Conwell is clearly most proud and excited about the over 50 nonprofits that help host The Feast. For many of these organizations, this event is their primary means of annual fundraising. The period food represents not only historical relationships, but also the web of organizations that serve and shape Tippecanoe County today. Conwell pointed out numerous instances of local support that makes the event possible. For example, local church groups stepped in and volunteered to drive the buses between the Purdue parking lot and the site after the previous service fell through. And, and on an ironic yet supportive note, the Sycamore Audubon society runs the turkey leg booth. The nonprofit-friendly event is also family friendly, including children’s activities like candle making, pottery glazing and cross-cut sawing. In fact, I first learned of the event from my kids—who all attended The Feast as a school activity. For them, the annual event has become a shared memory of growing up in Tippecanoe County.

Reason Number 1: Food The Feast is comprised of over 30 vendors offering period foods in addition to venders who sell crafts and other period products. Conwell spoke of the challenges involved in balancing modern technology,

The Feast of the Hunters’ Moon at Fort Ouiatenon on October 1–2 promises to feed your historical intrigue, curious taste buds and sense of local community.

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Graphic by Caryn Scheving

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2016 Food Booths FOODS

FryBread Coffee, Lemonade, Cider, Water Buffalo Stew, Coffee, Water Hickory Chicken, Baked Potatoes, Baked Sweet Potatoes, Water Rock Candy, Jerky, Parched Corn, Biscuits, Trail Mix, Ginger Tea Turkey Noodle Soup, Sweet Potato Muffins, Sweet Potato Pies, Apples, Lemon Water Bread Samples Rabbit Stew, Herb Tea, Water Roasted Corn, Black Tea, Melissa Tea Buffalo Burgers, Gingerbread Soft Drinks, Water, Coffee Smelt, Catfish, Buffalo Chips, Soft Drinks Herbal Pork Chops Buffalo Burgers, Soft Drinks, Water Sausage on a Stick Applesauce, Water, Hot Chocolate, Coffee Fry Bread, Water Ham and Beans, Cornbread, Coffee, Water, Soft Drinks Pancake Breakfast, Sausage, Coffee, Milk Micro Brew Beer, Wine Sauerkraut Stew, French Bread, Water Rib Eye Sandwich, Water Noodables, Desperation Pie, Water Fruited Lemonade, Fruited Orangeade, Caramel Apple Sundae, Water Omelets, Pumpkin Pie, Apple Cider, Water French Onion Soup, Apple Fritters, Coffee Turkey Legs, Cider, Water Fudge, Maple Candy, Switchel Herbal Pork Chops Croquignolles, Jerky, Spiced Tea, Coffee Apple Crepe, Coffee, Water Bud’s Homemade Root Beer Voyageur Stew, Pea Soup, Coffee Apple Dumplings Forfar Bridies, Shortbread, Spiced Tea, Water

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OPERATED BY

Boy Scout Troop 322 Boy Scout Troop 322

Boy Scout Troop 337 Dayton Mothers Club Boy Scout Troop 318 Wabash County Animal Shelter Ouiatenon Bakers Dayton Masonic Lodge 103 New Community School Families Serving Greater Lafayette Families Serving Greater Lafayette Boy Scout Troop 303 Rossville FFA #2 Buck Creek UMC Youth F.O.P. Arman Lodge 49 Boy Scout Troop 321 Riverside Covenant Church Trinity UMC Youth Group Business Masters of Lafayette Lafayette Brewing Co. SPIN Youth Group West Point UMC Battle Ground Masonic Lodge 313 Tippecanoe Shrine Club Boy Scout Troop 338 Mullen Family Calvary Baptist Church Boy Scout Troop 100 Sycamore Audubon Society Friends Meeting Rossville FFA #1 Lions District 25-C Boy Scout Troop 372 & Venturing Crew 2372

public safety standards and dedication to history. For example, each food booth has at least one person who is ServSafe certified, every booth refrigerates perishable items and submits to food inspections and all food booth workers wear 18th century period costumes. For women, this means a light-colored, peasant-style blouse, a mid-calf to ankle length solid-colored skirt, an apron and a light-colored hat. All “20th century intrusions” are asked to be kept out of sight by the organizers. Much thought is given to creating a historical and festive atmosphere. The Feast of the Hunters’ Moon is, after all, a FEAST. The organizers go to great lengths to ensure that the food invokes the spirit of cultural dialogue. Menu items represent the diverse groups as well as the availability of ingredients, such as buffalo, apples, turkey, corn and rabbit. The most popular food booths include pork chops, apple dumplings, buffalo burgers and Forfar bridies (a Scottish meat pie). I am excited to taste items that seem historically distant and exotic, such as Forfar bridies, Noodables (a vegetable and noodle stew) and Croquignolles (a sweet fried dough). Based on the curious names alone, I must also try Desperation Pie and Voyageur Stew. What’s not to like about a cool fall day on the banks of the Wabash River, sipping warm cider and eating sweet fried bread? You can’t get that at the mall. I invite you to join The Feast of the Hunters’ Moon and become a part of ongoing Indiana history. For more information visit the Tippecanoe Historical Association website: tcha.mus.in.us/feast.htm or Visit Lafayette-West Lafayette at HomeofPurdue.com.

Boy Scout Troop 326 Central Catholic Junior Class Forty-Second Royal Highlanders

Lisa Banu, food writer and philosopher, lives in West Lafayette with her family, who endure and encourage her unpredictable cooking experiments. She documents her dedication to mindful living and examined eating in her blog, The Hungry Philosopher, at HungryPhil.com.

9 - Oct. 2, 20 pt. 1 16 Se

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F RE E KIDS’

COOKING CL A SS E S! • • Hosted by Georgeto wn Market • •

Connect your kids with healthy, scratchmade recipes made with local ingredients. Ages 6-13 • 10am-12pm Oct 22, 2016

20 spots available each class - RESERVATIONS REQUIRED

Pizza Party! Making healthy, fresh pizzas

Reserve your spot here:

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Cook

Hearty Dishes Full of Fall Flavor 9 Ƃ "1* "" -

quash, Pumpkin and hearty soups all provide the savory flavors of fall Hoosiers turn to this time of year. And that’s just what A Couple Cooks had in mind with these dishes, which are sure to get you in the spirit of kicking up leaves and hosting progressive dinners with neighbors on a perfect Indian Summer night. Enjoy!

Italian Vegetable and Gnocchi Soup Serves 4–6 1 yellow onion 4 garlic cloves ½ cup chopped basil leaves, plus additional for serving if desired 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pinches red pepper flakes 1 quart vegetable broth 1 (28-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes* 1 (15-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes 1 teaspoon kosher salt Fresh ground pepper 1½ cups frozen (or fresh) cut green beans 1 pound purchased gnocchi 4 to 6 cups spinach leaves Parmesan cheese, for serving (optional)**

Chop onion and mince garlic. Chop ½ cup basil (thinly slice some additional basil and reserve for garnish, if desired). Drain and rinse chickpeas. In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onion until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and basil for 1 minute. Add chickpeas, red pepper flakes, broth, both cans of tomatoes and their juices, kosher salt and several grinds of fresh pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Add green beans. Simmer for 15 minutes. Break apart any clumps in gnocchi and add to pot. Cook for 5 minutes, until tender. Turn off heat; stir in spinach until wilted, about 1 minute. To serve, allow to cool slightly and ladle soup into bowls. Top with basil and Parmesan cheese (optional).** * Use fire roasted tomatoes if at all possible; avoid “no salt added” varieties. ** With the fresh basil, the soup is very flavorful and doesn’t require the addition of cheese, but feel free to add if desired.

Sonja and Alex Overhiser are the author, photographer and recipe developer couple behind the food blog A Couple Cooks. Since its inception, A Couple Cooks has garnered an international following for its seasonal, whole food recipes and stunning photography, and have been featured in publications from Huﬃngton Post to Better Homes and Gardens. Widely known for their work as advocates for healthy and sustainable food, Alex and Sonja’s most recent venture is the A Couple Cooks Podcast, which features conversations about food with personalities ranging from local farmers to celebrity chefs. 32 32

edible edible INDY INDY fall fall 2016 2016

Chipotle Black Bean Stuffed Delicata Squash Serves 4 1 cup uncooked (2½ cups cooked) brown rice 4 delicata squash 2 garlic cloves 1 can chipotle chilies in adobo sauce 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup olive oil 3 green onions ¼ cup cilantro, chopped 1 (15-ounce) can black beans (1½ cups cooked) 1½ cups salsa 1½ cups frozen or canned corn 1½ teaspoons cumin 2 teaspoons chili powder ½ teaspoon garlic powder 1½ cups Monterrey Jack and Cheddar blend shredded cheese (Mexican blend) Hot sauce, for garnish (optional) Sour cream, for garnish (optional) Preheat oven to 450°F. Cook rice according to package instructions (or make rice beforehand and heat slightly prior to serving). Wash the squash. Cut each squash in half and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Mince garlic and 1 chipotle chili, then in a small bowl combine garlic and chili with 2 tablespoons adobo sauce, honey and olive oil. Rub mixture onto both sides of squash. Place squash halves cut side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for about 25 minutes, until tender when poked with a fork. Meanwhile, when rice finishes, thinly slice green onions, chop cilantro, and drain and rinse the beans. In a large bowl, mix together 2½ cups cooked brown rice, green onions, beans, salsa, corn, cumin, chili powder, garlic powder, ½ cup shredded cheese and 2 tablespoons adobo sauce. Taste, and adjust seasonings if desired. When squash are roasted, spoon filling into each half. If desired, top with a few dashes hot sauce. Sprinkle the filling with the remaining shredded cheese. Bake squash again for 3–5 minutes, until the cheese melts. To serve, garnish with chopped cilantro. Top with sour cream if desired. edibleIndy.com edibleIndy.com

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Pumpkin Spice Almond Butter Makes 1½ cups 2 cups raw almonds ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1½ tablespoons grapeseed or canola oil 1 to 2 tablespoons maple syrup 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cloves ½ teaspoon ground ginger ⁄ teaspoon ground nutmeg

edible INDY fall 2016

Preheat oven to 325°F. Place almonds on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake for 25 minutes, until fragrant. Let almonds cool for 1 minute, then place in a food processor (while still warm). Process 1 to 2 minutes, until dry and crumbly. Scrape down the bowl. Turn on the processor, then with motor running add kosher salt, oil and 1 or 2 tablespoons maple syrup (use 1 tablespoon for a slightly sweet, thinner version and 2 tablespoons for a sweeter, thicker version). Continue processing 6 to 9 minutes, scraping down the bowl often in the beginning stage, adding ½ to 1 additional tablespoon of oil if almonds are too dry. (This process takes multiple times of stopping and scraping.) Continue to process until the dry almonds start to clump into a dough ball, and then even longer until they form into a creamy liquid. When creamy, while motor is running add cinnamon, cloves, ginger and nutmeg. Stop to scrape down sides of the bowl, then continue processing until spices are fully integrated.

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edible INDY fall 2016

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edible INDY fall 2016

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Culture

A look inside the delicious eats of the Jewish High Holidays

Noshes for a New Year 9 -Ƃ,Ƃ - 7 ,

all is just around the corner. That means that in a few weeks, if you drop by my house, you’re liable to find me in the kitchen with my daughters. We’ll be chopping up apples and stirring them into a mass of honey and sugar lightened with a little lemon juice, heating water in the canning pot, sterilizing jars and getting ready to can our annual batch of apple-honey jam.

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edible edibleINDY INDYfall fall2016 2016

The Jewish High Holidays— known as High Holy Days—are the holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur. Rosh Hashanah is the head of the year and Yom Kippur is the Day of Atonement. The celebration of the 2016-17 year is actually the Hebrew/Jewish year of 5777.

The jam is a sticky and delicious treat that’s worth eating any time, but the girls and I always make it to give to teachers and family friends to say Shanah Tovah (Happy New Year) during Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish New Year. Rosh Hashanah is the first of the Jewish High Holidays, and its combination of celebration and spiritual reflection is a highlight of the religious year. Apple-honey jam is a perfect gift to mark the holiday because Jews have dipped apples into honey for centuries in order to wish one another a Shanah Tovah umetukah—a good and sweet New Year. That wish informs a lot of the cooking and eating we do during Rosh Hashanah. Sliced apples dipped into honey are the simplest variation. The jam I make is just a more portable version of that. Honey cakes of every variety are a popular treat—whether ordered in from fancy bakeries or made at home from a recipe Grandma handed down. My own great-grandmother made taiglach for Rosh Hashanah. These little knots of dough are boiled in a honey syrup until golden brown and then rolled in nuts. They guarantee sticky fingers as well as a sweet year! Honey is everywhere during the holiday. It sweetens tzimmes, a glazed carrot and raisin side dish. And honey-roasted chicken is an increasingly popular choice as the centerpiece of dinner on Rosh Hashanah. If you still haven’t had enough sweetness, you can always smear honey on a big slice of challah—the traditional braided bread eaten on Friday nights for Shabbat (the Sabbath). During Rosh Hashanah, though, that challah looks a little different. Instead of forming one long braid, during Rosh Hashanah challah is formed into a round braid. The circular shape symbolizes the renewing cycle of the year. The fact that a circle ends by returning to its beginning is also a reminder that the end of an old year is a chance to return to the good intentions with which we began it, no matter how far we may have drifted from them. Some families make a practice of celebrating the New Year with foods that are jokes and puns. Because Rosh Hashanah literally translates as “the head of the year,” fish heads are a feature of some celebrations. Other foods, like beets or dates and gourds like pumpkin or squash, are sometimes eaten because the Hebrew words for them sound like the words for “to tear,” “to consume” and “to remove,” which is what we hope will happen to our sins and to evil-doers. The Yiddish word for “carrot” sounds a lot like the Yiddish word for “increase,” and the carrots that go into tzimmes are sliced into rounds so they look like coins. So those simple carrots can be seen as a wish for a New Year filled with prosperity.

Ten days after Rosh Hashanah comes the most solemn holiday in the Jewish Calendar: Yom Kippur, the day of repentance. When it arrives, Jews fast from sundown on one day to sundown on the next day—eating no food and drinking no water during that time, and spending as much time as possible in prayer, contemplation and study. Knowing that, it might seem funny to talk about traditional foods for Yom Kippur. (I like to joke that my recipe for dinner on Yom Kippur is “air and prayer.”) But after you have fasted for a full day, you’re ready to eat! That means what matters most for the “break the fast” meal after Yom Kippur is that there’s good food, plenty of it, and that you can get it on the table quickly. My friend Rachel relies on bagels and lots of spreads. She doesn’t like to cook during the fast since she wouldn’t be allowed to taste anything. I feel the same way, so I make a coffee- and spice-rubbed brisket that needs to marinate in its sauce for 24 hours after cooking. I take it out of the oven before the fast begins—put it in the fridge and ignore it while I’m fasting—and quickly reheat it once the sun goes down. My friend Leah’s food traditions are Sephardic—from the Jews of Morocco, Spain, Portugal and North Africa. Her family loves hot pepper salad and borekas, which are savory pastries stuffed with a wide range of fillings, for their break the fast. Other families will rely on kugel (a baked noodle pudding with infinite sweet and savory variations), strata or other familiar brunch food. My fiancé doesn’t feel like he’s really broken his fast until he has a good garlic dill pickle, and some friends of his always start their meal with a fast shot of slivovitz—a highly alcoholic plum brandy. Less adventurous souls will ease out of their fast with a cup of tea and a slice of challah or plain cake before they move on to more serious eating. The High Holidays of Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur are the backbone of the Jewish year. And the foods we eat during those holidays help us to celebrate together, to restore us after a day of atonement and prayer, and to symbolize our hopes and our wishes. So have a little something sweet on the evening of October 2, when Rosh Hashanah begins, and maybe grab a bagel for dinner on October 12, when Yom Kippur ends. And may your New Year be filled with sweetness and new recipes. Sarah Skwire lives in Indianapolis. She is a senior fellow at Liberty Fund, Inc., serves on the board of directors of Indiana Humanities and is a regular columnist for The Freeman on literature and economics.

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Recently published, The Community Table: Recipes & Stories from the Jewish Community Center in Manhattan & Beyond explores traditional Jewish recipes—updating them for today’s cooks—and presents new and innovative takes on contemporary dishes. Authors Katja Goldman, Judy Bernstein Bunzl and Lisa Rotmil collected and created recipes that celebrate living and eating season by season with local farm fresh ingredients while enjoying the traditions of their Jewish culture. Enjoy these three adventurous recipes from the cookbook. Find The Community Table on Amazon.com and at Barnes and Noble. Recipes from The Community Table: Recipes & Stories from the Jewish Community Center in Manhattan and Beyond, courtesy of JCC Manhattan. For more information on the book, please visit jccmanhattan.org/communitytable.

Honey Cake with Grilled Peaches

Grilled Peaches with

2¼ cups boiling water 4 teaspoons baking soda 2 cups sugar 2 cups honey 2 cups vegetable oil 6 extra-large eggs ¾ cup raisins (optional) 4 cups unbleached all-purpose ﬂour 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest Grilled Peaches with Lemon-Honey Drizzle (recipe follows)

Serves 6 to 8

Makes 3 loaf cakes

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil three 9- by 5-inch loaf pans and line their bottoms with parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine ¼ cup of the boiling water with the baking soda (to eliminate any bitterness). In the bowl of a standing mixer or with hand beaters and a large bowl, combine the sugar, honey and oil and beat at medium speed until completely combined, 2 to 3 minutes. (Alternately, mix by hand in a large bowl.) Add the eggs, 1 at a time and beating after each addition. Add the dissolved baking soda and beat until combined. Add the raisins if using, and stir to incorporate. In a medium bowl, combine the ﬂour, cinnamon, ginger, salt and zest and blend with a fork. With the mixer at low speed, gradually add the ﬂour mixture to the honey mixture. When combined, slowly add the remaining 2 cups boiling water. The batter will seem quite thin and a bit runny; this is normal. Divide the batter among the pans. Bake the cakes on the center rack until a cake tester inserted in the centers comes out clean and the tops are springy to the touch, 45 to 50 minutes. Allow the cakes to cool in their pans for 10 minutes, then transfer to a rack to cool completely. Cut the cakes in ½-inch slices and serve with the grilled peaches. 42

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Lemon-Honey Drizzle 4 ﬁrm-ripe peaches, unpeeled, halved and stones removed 2 teaspoons grapeseed or light olive oil 2 tablespoons honey Pinch of kosher salt Juice of 2 small lemons (about 4 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons shelled pistachios, chopped (optional) Place the peaches in a shallow bowl and brush with the oil, coating them completely. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the honey on the peaches, sprinkle with the salt, and pour over 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice. Gently move the peaches around to coat them. Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Grill the peaches cut side down until the edges have begun to soften and brown, about 5 minutes. Gently turn the peaches and grill until fork-tender but still ﬁrm, about 5 minutes more (the ripeness and size of the peaches may alter the timing). Transfer the peaches to a platter, skin side down. Make the drizzle: In a small saucepan bring the remaining honey and juice to a gentle simmer over low heat. Stir and simmer to combine, 1 minute more. Drizzle over the peaches, sprinkle with the pistachios if using and serve. Recipe photography featured on page 40.

Roasted Red Pepper, Tomato and Parsley Salad Serves 6 as a side

10 plum tomatoes, halved lengthwise; or 4 pints grape or cherry tomatoes 1 tablespoon plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 10 large bell peppers, red, yellow and/or orange 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted 3 to 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 cups fresh ﬂat-leaf parsley leaves 2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice Preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a medium baking pan or baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes with the 1 tablespoon oil and toss. Season with salt and pepper. Place the tomatoes cut side up on the sheet (or spread out the whole grape tomatoes). Roast until the tomatoes have browned, 40 to 50 minutes. Set aside. Meanwhile, char the peppers over an open burner ﬂame, turning as the skin blisters, 12 to 15 minutes. Alternately, preheat the broiler and place the peppers

on a large baking sheet and broil close to the heat source, turning every 10 minutes or so, until the peppers are charred on all sides and very soft, 30 to 35 minutes. Place the roasted peppers in a paper bag and close the bag. The steam created inside the bag will help loosen the skins, making peeling the peppers easier. Let them cool long enough so you can handle them, then peel them. Halve the peppers and discard their peel, seeds, and stems. Cut each half lengthwise into thirds and set aside. Meanwhile, toast the cumin seeds in a small pan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly colored and fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a small bowl and set aside. Add the ¼ cup oil to the pan and sauté the garlic over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic begins to color. Remove from the heat and set aside. Using a mortar and pestle, partially crush the cumin seeds. You can also grind them coarsely in a spice grinder. Pile the parsley leaves on a platter. In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, peppers, garlic with its oil, crushed cumin and lemon juice and toss. Season with salt, transfer onto the parsley leaves and serve.

Roasted Tzimmes Serves 6 to 8

8 dried figs, cut in eighths ¼ cup orange juice ¾ pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes or 1½-inch-long sticks ¾ pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes or 1½-inch-long sticks ½ pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes or 1½-inch-long sticks 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon molasses 2 teaspoons za’atar 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper In a small bowl, combine the figs and orange juice and let soak for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 hour. Drain and reserve the orange juice. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, combine the figs, carrots, sweet potatoes and parsnips. Add the olive oil, balsamic vinegar, molasses, za’atar, salt and pepper to taste and toss to coat. Spread the mixture on the baking sheet. Roast, tossing occasionally, until the vegetables begin to caramelize, 30 to 40 minutes. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons of the reserved orange juice over the vegetables and toss again. Add more salt to taste and serve.

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History

Home to Indiana’s earliest distillers and brewers

CHEERS TO TERRE HAUTE 9 , - 7 "

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edible INDY fall 2016

hile 200 years may seem a mere wink in geological time, in United States history it is an important milestone. This year, the State of Indiana celebrates its bicentennial, with communities all over the state rightfully celebrating their contributions to that history. Terre Haute holds the distinction of a double celebration, as it too was incorporated in 1816. This comes as a surprise to many of our state’s citizens, and that is truly a shame, as Terre Haute has contributed much to the history and character of the state’s first 200 years. For example, few know Terre Haute has been the crossroads for Midwestern food and beverage production for much of its history. Transportation is king in the food business, and Terre Haute is a transportation city. Situated at the historic Crossroads of America, US 40 and US 41, and having been an early city along the National or Cumberland Road (later US 40), Terre Haute was able to connect communities across the country with agricultural products produced in the Wabash Valley. Even earlier, Terre Haute was connected by the Wabash River, which is central to the city’s location and industrial growth. Traversed by the Wabash and by the Erie Canal, Terre Haute was a hub for rail that is still an important part of the city’s character. Industrialists prized the city for the ease of transporting products to all corners of the country; food producers in particular, with the need to move perishable products to market swiftly, were an early driver of this crucial role. In early days Terre Haute was known as a pork-producing community, with processing facilities located along the Wabash. Soon another industry had begun to emerge: Distilleries started to produce alcohol at ever-increasing rates. There is evidence that distilleries were operating in the area as early as the 1820s; by 1858 Alex. McGregor & Co. were operating on Main Street (now Wabash Avenue) in the block adjacent to the Wabash River. Their 1864 advertisement in the Terre Haute City Directory noted that they were “Millers and Distillers, purchasers of Corn, Rye, Wheat and Barley.” The abundance of these local grains contributed to the success of both the pork producer and, later, the distillers. Terre Haute sits in the middle of some of the most productive agricultural land in the world, an area uniquely prepared by glaciation to produce grains, the central product of distilled spirits. The city also has a long and intertwined history of brewing beer, another product that makes good use of local grain. The Terre Haute Brewing Co. took advantage of the local transportation hub and would later become the seventh-largest brewery in the United States. In the 1870s a new distiller arrived, partly from the remnants of McGregor and Co., and the names associated with it are central to both Terre Haute and Indiana history, as well as the growth of distilleries in Terre Haute. The company, Hulman and Fairbanks, was a partnership between Herman Hulman Sr. and Crawford Fairbanks, both of whom would have far-reaching impact beyond Terre Haute. By 1881, the company had become Cox and Fairbanks, and by 1888 Terre Haute Distilling Co. and also Wabash Distilling Co. These companies laid the groundwork

for a number of new endeavors in Terre Haute, and even became the site of what is now Fairbanks Park on the banks of the Wabash. Later introductions included Hulman and Beggs, and Indiana Distilling Co. By 1900, Indiana Distilling Co. was operating the Majestic Distillery, then the largest distillery in the world. With a capacity of 60,000 gallons per day, Majestic produced corn whiskey for distribution across the country. By 1904 Merchants Distilling Co. was listed in the City Directory, and by 1915 Commercial Distilling Co. was listed, as well. These last two companies remained active during and after Prohibition—but not making booze. Commercial Distilling was to become Commercial Solvents, a manufacturer of acetone, butanol, pure ethanol, explosives and other products by fermentation and distillation; later they even made penicillin. Merchants Distilling Co., as the last beverage spirits distiller in the area, is one of a few companies that still have buildings remaining. Driving south on 1st Street, past the intersection of Hulman Street and Prairieton Road just north of Demorest sits a brick building. This is Rectification Building No. 18, perhaps the only remaining evidence there was once a huge distillery producing at least 15,000 gallons per day on the property to the north. There is one other building in Terre Haute that was definitely a distillery: downtown at the corner of 9th and Cherry, in Building 2 of Hulman and Co. was originally housed Hulman and Beggs, founded by Herman Hulman Jr. and John Ed Beggs. While not in operation for long before being replaced by an expansion of the Hulman Coffee Co., it is notable due to the partnership. While the Hulman connection is obvious, Beggs was brought to town by Crawford Fairbanks and was connected to all of the other local distilleries at some point, helping to start the Terre Haute, Wabash, Indiana, Majestic and Commercial Distilling companies, as well as distilling operations in Vincennes and Peoria, IL; he even had a stake in the Terre Haute Brewing Co. Compared to these enterprises, Hulman and Beggs was quite small. According to an archival document at the Vigo County Historical Society, Hulman and Beggs produced their own brands of whiskey, sold Kentucky-style bourbon and California wine and possibly also made European-style liquors. For me, this is the most interesting piece of Terre Haute’s distilling past, as my office is in what was once either the salesroom or sampling area and I came upon the connection by happenstance. While visiting the local library, I happened upon Sanborn Fire Insurance Maps for Terre Haute. For the curious, these are detailed insurance maps that show all of the buildings in a specific community. (I encourage you to seek them out and see what used to be located in your town or city.) In the 1896 Terre Haute edition, Hulman and Beggs is listed where my office currently sits. Later I found a souvenir program for the grand opening of the company. It was a revelation, as no one currently connected to Hulman and Co. knew of this earlier enterprise. With all of that history, the present reality is that Terre Haute no longer has a distillery. However, Indiana does have numerous distilleries from the large MGP facility in Lawrenceburg, to small craft distilleries in South Bend, Mount Vernon, Cayuga, Anderson, Indianapolis and many other Indiana communities. The good news is the Terre Haute Brewing Co. has recently reopened, and there is definitely hope that for the same reasons producers wanted to make whiskey and beer here almost 200 years ago, someone will start another tradition of making sprits that will lead the state in the 21st century. A Terre Haute transplant, Chris Weber came to Indiana to run the local coﬀee company, Rex Roasting Co., for Clabber Girl Corp. Soon after he arrived, the history and unique character of his adopted city became apparent to him. Chris has written articles and volunteered for multiple organizations in his area. He is particularly interested in the intersection of architecture, transportation and food that make up Terre Haute’s 200-year contribution to local and national history.

Top to bottom: 1939 Merchants Distillery First Barrel of Whiskey; 1939 Two men working at the laboratory at Merchants Distillery; 1939 View for the top of the fermenting tanks at Merchants Distillery edibleIndy.com

The Garden Table is a local eatery and fresh juicery in the heart of the Broad Ripple Village. We serve seasonally inﬂuenced and locally sourced food and cold pressed juice. We believe in simple dishes, made from natural ingredients, grown and harvested by local farmers. Downtown location opening soon. 317.413.3778. TheGardenTable.com

Looking for a great burger and beer? Look no further than Punch Burger. Our award winning burgers are made from local grass-fed beef provided by Fischer Farms in Jasper, Indiana. Our beers crafted are from local breweries such as Sun King, Quaﬀ On, Scarlet Lane and more. Need a suggestion? Make sure to order up our famous Burnt Cheese burger and a side of sweet potato tots . You won’t be sorry! PunchBurger.com

908 E. Westﬁeld Blvd., Indianapolis, Tu–Sa 8am–3pm, Su 9am–3pm.

12525 Old Meridian Ste. 100, Carmel: 317.564.0637. Su–W 11am–9pm, F–Sa 11am–10pm

Downtown: 137 E. Ohio St., Indianapolis, 317.426.5280. Su–Th 11am–9pm, F–Sa 11am–10pm

A Mass Avenue staple oﬀering non-hpp raw juices and smoothies in a hip and trendy walk-in location. All juices are cold-pressed, old school centrifuge, and freshly juiced on site and their cleanses programs are available year around. 317.797.4254, NaturalBornJuicers.com

Eating Local Simpliﬁed Getting Hoosier-grown goodness on your plate doesn’t have to involve hours in the kitchen. These ﬁne establishments proudly serve up the freshest locally sourced cuisine. The farm-to-table movement begins with Central Indiana farms and dedicated producers who care about bringing only the best to market, which is a very good thing for locally owned restaurants that search out the best dairy, meat, produce and beverages for their patrons. Farm-to-table is gaining momentum not only with bornand-bred Hoosiers, but the many visitors to Central Indiana. Edible Indy connects growers, producers and food artisans with their community. Here is a select list of some of those chefs and owners who take great pride in celebrating Hoosier-grown goodness. *This is a paid advertisement.

St. Elmo gives a big thank you to our local partners! As a locally owned business for over 110 years we take great pride in our local business relationships. Cheers to independent businesses! 317.635.0636, StElmos.com 127 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, M–F 4–11pm, Sa 3–11pm, Su 4–10pm

Milktooth is a neighborhood brunch destination, serving up Indy’s ﬁrst Mod Bar coﬀee program along with upscale breakfast and lunch. Focusing on seasonal, local ingredients— everything is made in house. 317.986.5131, MilktoothIndy.com 534 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis, W–M 7am–3pm

edible INDY fall 2016

865 Massachusetts Ave., Indianapolis. M–F 7am–7pm, Sa 9am–7pm, Su 10am–6pm

We’re proud to keep it local at Harry & Izzy’s! Three restaurants sourcing locally from 10 regional farms, four breweries and seven locally owned purveyors or producers leads to one great meal. All open M–Th 11am–11pm, F–Sa 11am–midnight, Su noon–9pm. HarryAndIzzys.com Downtown: 153 S. Illinois St., Indianapolis, 317.635.9594 Northside: 4050 E. 82nd St., Indianapolis, 317.915.8045 Airport: 7800 Col. Weir Cook Memorial Dr., Indianapolis, 317.241.0533

Oakley’s Bistro, a neighborhood American Bistro focuses on rotating seasonal menus encompassing the Midwest rustic appeal with local sustainable ingredients making every meal a special occasion. Owner and operator, Chef Steven Oakley is a James Beard Nominee with Bon Appétit recognizing the bistro as “one of the hottest restaurants coast to coast”. Join Chef Oakley at this Northside Indianapolis staple for lunch or dinner, whatever the occasion, the experience will be divine. 317.824.1231, OakleysBistro.com 1464 W. 86th St., Indianapolis. Lunch: T–Sa 11am– 1:30pm, Dinner: T–Th 5–9:30pm, F–Sa 5–10pm

Hotel Tango, the first small batch distillery in Indiana and is also the first service disabled, combat veteran owned distillery in the country. Using only high-quality, local ingredients allows us to stand out. We invite you to come in and taste what our Hoosier heads, hands, and hearts have made, sit by the fire, or belly up at the bar. Drink local, buy local. 317.653.1806, HotelTangoWhiskey.com 702 Virginia Ave., Indianapolis. M–F 2–10pm, Sa–Su noon–10pm

Founded in 2005, Chef JJ’s is a unique, personal and hands-on culinary experience with a focus on the Big Green Egg®, corporate team building, private events and grilling classes. Chef JJ’s provides clients with the most innovative culinary experience in Indianapolis. Our multi-course meals are prepared and served backyard or family style. We oﬀer distinctive private dining opportunities for your event with personal attention to detail. Call us to set up your event today. 317.602.3828, ChefJJs.com Downtown: 42 W. South St., Indianapolis 1040 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis, M–F 11am–6pm, Sa 10am–5pm.

Cardinal Spirits is a craft distillery and cocktail bar just oﬀ the B-Line in Bloomington. We combine ageold distilling techniques with modern technology, and specialize in creating memorable experiences. CardinalSpirits.com 922 S. Morton St., Bloomington, M–Th 4–10pm, F–Su 12pm–12am, 812.202.6789

Dine at a true farmstead restaurant, located inside a beautiful historic barn on an organic dairy farm. Food grown and raised on-site takes center place on organic menus shaped by seasonal rhythms. Open for Lunch, Dinner, and Sunday Brunch. 317.733.1700, TraderspointCreamery.com 9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville. Lunch: M–Sat 11am–2:30pm; Dinner: Tu–Th, Su 5–9pm, F–Sa 5–9:30pm; Sunday Brunch: 9:30am–2:30pm

From a store full of fresh, seasonal foods and a team of Chefs and Culinary Experts comes a celebration of food called table by Market District — a restaurant that brings passion for food right to your plate. Open daily for lunch & dinner, as well as brunch every Sunday. 317.689.6330, MarketDistrict.com/Table 11505 N. Illinois St., Carmel. Su–Th 11am– 9pm, F–Sa 11am–10pm

Local Roots, California Wines (and vibes)! If you love tasting great Napa Valley wine in a fun, eclectic, groovy atmosphere, then Peace Water Winery is your place! Best yet, 50% of our proﬁts are donated to charities. So come in for a tasting, buy a glass, take home a bottle or join our wine club and learn how “One Bottle Does a World of Good!”. 317.810.1330, PeaceWaterWinery.com 37 W. Main St., Carmel, T–Th 2–9pm, F–Sa noon–10pm, Su noon–5pm

Upland oﬀers a brewpub, beer bar, tap house and tasting room, all serving up Indiana’s ﬁnest craft brews,gourmet burgers to beet and pesto pizza. The Carmel Tap House and the Brew Pub have full service lunch and dinner menus. For a full listing of locations visit UplandBeer.com Bloomington BrewPub: 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington, M–Th 11am–12am, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su 12pm— 12am, 812.336.2337 Carmel Tap House: 820 E. 116th St., Carmel, M–Th 11am–12am, F–Sa 11am–1am, Su 12pm–12am, 317.564.3400 edibleIndy.com

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crave bagels—good bagels, fresh bagels, bagels that can cure a helluva hangover. And that’s what you’ll ﬁnd at Ripple Bagel & Deli in Broad Ripple. This place is a college hangout in a non-college village—a place with chalkboard menus, fountain drinks, large whole pickles to go and, yes, for those who are creative with their bagel sammie… they get a custom-named bagel and artwork to boot. Welcome our now-onthe-wall bagel creation: It’s All About the Guac. And you might want to ask them about our other creation, Sweet Pickins—an apple cinnamon bagel with cream cheese, bacon, sliced apples, melted cheddar cheese, chocolate chips and drizzled with maple syrup. Ripple Bagel & Deli 850 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis RippleBagelDeli.com

edible INDY fall 2016

Dare to try something different Most of the fun of traveling is trying new restaurants. Here in Hamilton County, bold tastemakers are changing the local dining landscape. From seasonal apple and pumpkin treats to nontraditional breakfast dishes, and bigger-than-the-bun breaded pork tenderloin sandwiches to pirate and barbecue fusion, you’re going to like what Hamilton County has on the menu.

Learn more at VisitHamiltonCounty.com ARTS

HISTORY

SHOPPING

DINING

BIKING

HIKING

BIG HOFFA’S SMOKEHOUSE BAR-B-QUE - WESTFIELD, INDIANA JUST NORTH OF INDY

edibleIndy.com

Serving All Commercial Foodservice Operations

c-tdesign.com

Trust. Turnkey. Solutions. Joe’s Butcher Shop and Joe’s Next Door is Carmel’s favorite neighborhood market. From the kitchen to the counter C & T Design provides distinctive kitchen design and equipment making each project individual, custom and unique. The local eats from Joe’s tastes just a little better with C & T Design.

It is all in the name of building a better culinary community. edible INDY fall 2016

Edible Indy Fall 2016 | No. 22

Articles inside

Roasted Red Pepper, Tomato and Parsley Salad

Pumpkin Spice Almond Butter

Chipotle Black Bean Stuffed Delicata Squash

Spice Island Cocktail