EDIBLE DESTINATIONS

An Amish Country Meander

DINING IN THE SLOW LANE

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANE SIMON AMMESON

In the fall, as jewel-colored leaves drift slowly across the back byways in the area of Northwest Indiana called Amish Country, it is possible to catch glimpses of life as it was lived over a century ago. Young boys navigate horse-drawn wagons filled with a cornucopia of fresh vegetables down dirt roads; girls dressed in homemade dresses and matching bonnets in the palest of pastels drive buggies past farms set on squares of green.

I have my favorite places to stop when I’m traveling through this 19th-century rural landscape and the first is always Country Lane Bakery, just seven miles south of Shipshewana on County Road 43. Like most Amish homes and businesses, it is a plain white building. Inside, even without electricity, it buzzes with visitors who all know to get here early for the freshly baked rolls, breads, cakes and unbelievable pies.

On my first visit, I arrived at 2pm and, alas, found only one peach cream pie left but oh, it was so good. I’ve never been able to find a recipe similar to the one I ate and so now I’m among the first arrivals on my pilgrimage through some of the best country eating in the state.

Just a few miles north on the same country road, I visit Green Meadow Farms, an Amish farm selling Lady-Finger Popcorn, a tender, very small, hull-less heritage popcorn, as well as fresh eggs, cheeses and meats (depending upon the day) from their self-serve back porch.

For house-prepared Amish-style meals, both Blue Gate in Shipshewana and Das Dutchman Essenhaus in Middlebury know how to cook classic country such as homemade noodles topped with beef or chicken and served with real made-on-site mashed potatoes, biscuits, fried chicken and, of course, more pies. Both places have a bakery, inn, offer carriage rides and shopping.

On County Road 16, which covers the short distance between Middlebury and Shipshewana, watch cheese being made every morning at Guggisberg Deutsch Kase Haus. Then head west to the Dutch Country Market, owned by the Lehmans, an Amish family of eight. Here you can see noodle making using a hand-cranked noodle machine (and buy some too), fresh-from-the-hive honey products as well as nut butters. The noodles, made of only Next page, clockwise from top left: Country Lane Bakery just north of Goshen. An Amish bakery known for pies and breads, which are baked in propane-fueled ovens because of this self-sustaining religious group’s belief that reliance on public power ties them too closely to the outside world.

Quilt Garden at Das Essenhaus: Amish Country is known for its beautiful quilt gardens, blankets of blooms planted to replicate classic and new quilt squares. Das Essenhaus is a delightful restaurant and bakery complex with carriage rides, a hotel and boutique shops. Photo provided by Amish Country/Elkhart County CVB.

One of the many joys of driving the back roads in Northwestern Indiana’s Amish Country is coming across bake sales like this one, raising money for local Amish schools.

The oldest continuously operating grist mill in the state, the Bonneyville Mill, between Bristol and Middlebury, continues to turn out flours and meals with the heavy turns of the mill wheel—just as it did over 150 years ago.

Interior Wakarusa Dime Store, which opened in 1907 as a general store, is one of many historic structures in this charming small town in Northwest Indiana’s Amish Country. Photos courtesy of Amish Country/Elkhart County CVB.

durum wheat fl our, eggs and water, are packaged under the name of Katie’s Noodles in honor of Mrs. Lehman, who cranks out 48,000 pounds each year with the help of her six children.

Another plus: Th e Lehmans, like many businesses in Amish Country, annually plant a quilt garden—a mass of blooms replicating either a traditional or new-style quilt pattern. Make spotting them as well as the quilt murals drawn on barns part of your Amish meander.

At one time, every river, creek and stream in Indiana most likely had a mill or two or more, the water generating power to grind grain into fl our. Th e Bonneyville Mill, Indiana’s oldest continuous operating grist mill, fi rst started grinding fl our in 1832. Now part of the 223-acre Bonneyville Mill County Park, just east of Bristol, Indiana, on County Road 131, there’s no charge to enter and watch the giant millstones grind corn, wheat, rye and buckwheat, which are packaged and sold at the gift shop across the road. It’s not all country eating here. A fascinating food scene is taking place in many of the area’s charming 19th-century towns. In Bristol, with its century-plus opera house, stop by for a tasting at Fruit Hills Winery. While in Elkhart, a scenic city where three rivers meet and mansions line the riverbanks, sip 13, an American Black Ale, while munching on the Landimore Garlic house-made pizza with garlic oil, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, roasted garlic, mozzarella and goat cheese in the outdoor beer garden at Iechyd Da (the name is Welsh for cheers) Brewing Company. In downtown Goshen, beautiful Victorian-era commercial buildings house food-centric entities. Kelly Jae’s Café off ers small plates and craft cocktails and Rachel’s Bread is an astounding artisan bakery where yummy goods are made in a wood-fi red oven. Next door is the delightful Goshen Farmers’ Market, where I buy freshly picked ground cherries (covered with a papery skin like tomatillos and good for pies) as well as other local edibles. Th ere are many more must-stops here— Mattern Meat Butcher Shop, Th e Chief Ice Cream (voted number one in Indiana) and Venturi’s, which makes certifi ed Neapolitan pizza.

Be sure in all this traveling to take a side road or two. Last time I did I ended up at the Wakarusa Dime Store, where they’re known for their jelly beans, so who knows what treats you might fi nd. But keep in mind that Amish places will be closed on Sundays. Jane Simon Ammeson is a freelance writer and photographer who specializes in travel, food and personalities. A member of the Indiana Foodways Alliance, Jane is a James Beard Foundation judge for the Great Lakes Region and a member of Society of American Travel Writers and Midwest Travel Writers Association. Read her blog at NWITimes.com/ niche/shore/blogs/will-travel-for-food; Twitter @HPAmmeson.

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“When the frost is on the punkin and the fodder’s in the shock”—James Whitcomb Riley

Fall is the time to experience a fresh apple donut, sip on some apple cider, or bake up some pumpkin pie. Here are six exceptional places to visit in Central Indiana for your apple and pumpkin fi x.

Anderson Orchard

off ers 100 acres of pick-your-own apples and pumpkins. Enjoy hayrides, playground, cider slushes, caramel apples, elephant ears, or apple cobbler. Craft Fair, September 27 and 28. New this year, October Fest, October 4 and 5. Hours of operation: M–Sun 8–8 Location: 369 E Greencastle Rd, Mooresville

Stuckey Farm is a working U-pick apple orchard that welcomes visitors. Come and pick from 27 diff erent varieties of apples. Come visit the kids play area “Adventure Acres”, take a free wagon ride, see how they make cider, eat in their picnic area, or just browse through their Country Market. Hours of operation this fall: M–Th 9–6, F–Sat 9–8, Sun 1–5 Location: 19975 Hamilton Boone Rd, Sheridan stuckeyfarm.com Pick you own Jack-O-Lantern from over 18 acres of pumpkins at the Appleworks Weekend wagon rides to the patch begin September 27. Hours of operation: M–Sat 9–6; Sun 10–6 Location: 8157 S 250 W, Trafalgar

Tuttle Orchards is a favorite Central Indiana destination for apple picking, pumpkin patch, corn maze, hayrides, and more. No general admission or parking charge. Fall activities begin September 6 with Kickoff Caramel Apple Festival Hours of operation: M–W 9–6, Th–Sat 9–7, CLOSED Sunday Location: 5717 N 300 W, Greenfi eld tuttleorchards.com

You’ll fi nd acres of pumpkins and tons of fun at the Waterman’s Family Farm Fall Harvest Festival, September 27–November 1. Hours of operation: Indianapolis Festival hours: 9–8 Greenwood Festival hours: TBA Locations: 7010 E Raymond St, Indianapolis 317.356.6995 1100 N Ind Hwy 37, Greenwood 317.888.4189 watermansfamilyfarm.com

McClure’s family-owned apple orchard is a great getaway for the entire family: petting zoo, gift shopping, trolley rides, u-pick apples and pumpkins, wine and hard cider tastings and apple dumplings. Hours of operation: Apple Barn: M–Sat 9–5; Sun 11–5 Café: M–F 8–5; Sat 9-5; Sun 11–5 Location: 5054 N US Hwy 31, Peru