Edible Indy Spring 2012 | No. 4

edible Indy ®

Celebrating the Local Food Culture of Central Indiana, Season by Season Spring 2012 • Number 4

Spearheading A New Season A CSA Guide • Fields of Agape Syruping Traditions at Orchard School Member of Edible Communities

In Season What to eat Arugula Asparagus Beets Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Collards Green Peas Carrots Chard Fava beans Garlic Lettuce Wild Mushrooms Parsley Parsnips Radishes Rhubarb Spinach Strawberries Turnips What to Plant Bell Peppers Brussels Sprouts Cucumbers Eggplant Hot Peppers Snap Beans Summer Squash Sweet Corn Sweet Peppers Tomatoes

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edible Indy

hoosier Thoughts

Publisher Edible Indy, LLC President Cathy Bayse Editor-in-Chief Helen Workman Managing Editor Erica Sagon Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Designer Melissa Petersen Web Design Mary Ogle Social Media Kathleen Blotsky Ad Design Bob Keller Contributors Audrey Barron • Marcia Ellett Joan Jacobs • Cassie Johnston Meredith Lee • Amy Lynch Andie Marshall • Shawndra Miller Caroline Mosey • Erica Sagon

Photography Vinny Byer • Dan Cooper • Cassie Johnston Kelley Jordan Heneveld • Angela Herrmann Alex Overhiser • Sonja Overhiser Melissa Pfeiffer • Christina Richey Carole Topalian

Advertise Cathy Bayse • 317-694-6248 cathy@edibleindy.com

Subscribe • Give a Gift www.edibleindy.com • info@edibleindy.com

Contact us Edible Indy 8715 Washington Blvd. W. Drive, Indianapolis, IN 46240 317-292-1693 • info@edibleindy.com

Edible Indy publishes quarterly by Edible Indy, LLC. All rights reserved. Summer, Fall, Winter, Spring Subscription $32 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher © 2012. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings, and omissions.

If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies.

I started the new year off with a new first for me: I attended our local Slow Food chapter’s annual meeting. Slow Food Indy is the central Indiana chapter of Slow Food USA, which numbers more than 200 chapters across the United States—and that’s just one of the 150 countries worldwide where the Slow Food movement is taking hold.

“Slow Food Indy promotes central Indiana’s food culture with events and volunteer opportunities that focus on good, clean and fair food for everyone,” declares the chapter’s website, slowfoodindy.com.

The group is full of wonderful people so passionate about championing the taste and pleasures of real food rather than settling for mass-produced fast food, and focused on Cathy and Helen strengthening our local food system. They were warm and welcoming and I felt instantly connected. This meeting’s focus was a panel discussion featuring six people representing different sections of Indy’s local food community. They discussed a range of issues but the one that seemed the most important was: How do we grow support for the mission of good, clean and fair food for everyone?

I say you must start with education and building awareness within the community. And I thought to myself, that is exactly what Edible Indy does! We are an informational guide and resource tool. In this issue you will find guides to all the community-supported agriculture (CSA) programs and community gardens, and in every issue we list area farmers’ markets and local edible events.

We highlight our local producers, not only telling their stories and backgrounds but informing our readers how you can support them, sharing new ways to find and enjoy good, clean and fair food right here in Indy. Stories in this issue include the Orchard School’s oldest tradition of tapping their maple trees; the first anniversary of Pogue’s Run, Indy’s first and only food co-op; and Fields of Agape, a sustainable cooperative farm that produces grain, seed and beans.

Needless to say I am excited to support our local Slow Food chapter and I want to continue to contribute and participate in events. These are the people who made it possible to bring Edible Indy to our community and for that I am grateful!

Enjoy,

Publications of the Year edible Communities 2011 James Beard Foundation

Correction: On page 6 of the Fall 2011 issue of Edible Indy, the name of rum produced in Indianapolis was misspelled. It is Sorgrhum, a rum made from sorghum. For info, www.sorgrhum.com.

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Spring 2012

Contents

In Season

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Hoosier Thoughts Notable Edibles:

Margaritas up next for Indy’s Hoosier Momma • Eager gardeners can start now with seedlings • Cocktail contest heads for final round 5 minutes with: Vanessa Caruso

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Loving Spoonfuls

Little Bits Find Bliss In Wedding Soup

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Liquid Assets

Spring Cleaning In A Cup

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Edible Season

Spearheading A New Season

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Which CSA Is Right For You

A Guide

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Edible Traditions

Syruping Tradition Gets Sweeter With Time at Orchard School

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Keeping It Local

Indy’s only co-op brings economic and personal health to the Near Eastside.

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From The Good Earth

Harmony With Land: Community Nourishes Fields of Agape

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In The Kitchen With

Feeding All Five Senses: A peek into Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant on Indy’s west side.

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Garden Variety

Community and urban green spaces thrive in Indy

Recipe Index

5 Artist Unknown • 7 Italian Wedding Soup 11 Asparagus and Goat Cheese Tart with Honey Balsamic Drizzle 12 White Asparagus Bisque • 27 I Pita the Fool 31 Bernie’s Wheat Bran Muffins • 40 Mock Chicken Salad Injera, spongy flatbread from Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant story on page 32.

Photo by Kelley Jordan Heneveld. www.edibleindy.com

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Edible Events Advertising Directory Last Bite

Playing Chicken Farmers’ Market Directory On The Cover

Asparagus and Goat Cheese Tart with Honey Balsamic Drizzle. Story and recipe begin on page 10.

Photo by Cassie Johnston 3

notable edibles

Eager Gardeners Can Start Now With Seedlings

Margaritas up next for Indy’s Hoosier Momma The ladies behind Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary mixes have won over the brunch crowd. Now, they’re moving in on happy hour with two new margarita mixes.

Key lime and strawberry-rhubarb margarita drink mixes will make their debut at liquor stores in March. Though its flavorful, homemadetasting Bloody Mary mixes have been the hallmark of Hoosier Momma, a 2-year-old Indianapolis company, conquering other cocktails makes sense. Hoosier Momma co-founder Erin Edds hates to see people combine premium liquor with an inferior drink mix.

Enter Hoosier Momma’s high-quality mixes, naturally flavored and made without high-fructose corn syrup.

The key lime mix came from Edds’s partners KC Cranfill and Cat Hill, who really love the twist that key limes give to a traditional margarita. Strawberry-rhubarb was Edds’s baby, inspired by this discovery: Her homemade strawberry-rhubarb lemonade tasted mighty fine with some tequila in it.

“Margaritas are, across the board, a good-time cocktail,” Edds says.

Each 32-ounce jar makes six to eight margaritas, and will retail for about $7.99.

The Bloody Mary mixes—sold in Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, Kentucky and Louisiana—are becoming something of a celebrity. They are the official cocktail drink mix of this year’s Kentucky Derby Festival, an annual celebration that leads up to the Derby. And, in a recent Los Angeles Times story, a reporter called Hoosier Momma’s Bloody Mary mix “the best in my 40 years of research.”

Cheers to that!

If you’re a home gardener whose green thumb is itching to get started on spring planting, there is no need for further delay.

March and April are ideal months to begin nurturing seedlings indoors for an upcoming garden or home landscaping, says Lori Farr, a horticulturist and perennial production buyer at Dammann’s Lawn and Garden Center, which has three Indy locations. www.dammanns.com She recommends broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, pansies and impatiens as great crops to start indoors for early spring planting.

“Getting a jump start on the growing season is a fun activity and can help shake some of the pesky winter blues,” Farr says.

Farr offers these tips for getting started: • Choose a tray that will allow enough room for each plant to grow and spread without overcrowding.

• Purchase trustworthy seeds and read the packets carefully to find the best times to start seeds for our area, usually six to eight weeks before the last frost date.

• Start the seeds in a high-quality mix such as Organic Seed Starting Jiffy Mix. • Place seedlings by a south-facing window or use a grow light and rotate the tray throughout the day for consistent light exposure.

• As seedlings grow, gently brush the tops of them with your hand to encourage strong stems. As the weather warms, place them outside for a few hours each day to minimize the chance of shock when they are transplanted.

—Joan Jacobs

Details: Margarita mixes debut in March at Indy chain liquor stores including Crown Liquors, United Package Liquors, 21st Amendment and Kahn’s Fine Wine & Spirits, as well as Goose the Market and Twisted Sister. www.hoosiermomma.com —Erica Sagon Photo courtesy of Hoosier Momma

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Cocktail contest heads for final round Bartender Andy Foerstel has a winning cocktail on his hands.

With his recipe for Artist Unknown, Foerstel was named the Indy regional winner of the St-Germain fourth annual Can-Can Cocktail Classic, a competition for professional bartenders. Edible Communities, the publisher of Edible Indy and some 70 other locally owned and edited publications across the United States and Canada, is a partner of the contest. Now, Foerstel will compete for the national title and a $10,000 prize.

Foerstel creates and mixes cocktails for Blood & Sand, a private cocktail club in St. Louis, Missouri. For the competition, the task was to create a cocktail recipe using St-Germain—the ubiquitous elderflower liqueur with hints of pear and grapefruit—and local ingredients.

Foerstel crafted his drink with rye, St-Germain and Averna Amaro, a Sicilian herbal digestif that adds a bit of bitterness, among other ingredients.

To showcase a local ingredient, Foerstel chose black walnuts, turning them into a homemade tincture that gives the cocktail a warm edge. Pineapple sage leaves lend savory appeal and nicely complement the Chartreuse.

Whether he’s behind the bar at Blood & Sand or at home, Foerstel is a proponent of artisan cocktails, and urges people to be more imaginative than a routine vodka-cranberry.

“Experiment away. Try everything you can,” Foerstel says. “You never know what you can come up with.”

—Meredith Lee

Artist Unknown Recipe by Andy Foerstel Makes 1 serving ¼ ounce black walnut tincture (recipe is below) 3 pineapple sage leaves 1½ ounces Rittenhouse Rye ½ ounce St-Germain ½ ounce Averna Amaro ¼ ounce green Chartreuse 3–4 frozen red seedless grapes dusted with powdered ginger

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Mixologist Andrew Foerstel with his drink Artist Unknown

To make the black walnut tincture, toast 16 shelled black walnuts. Place walnuts in jar and add 4 ounces of 100proof vodka and 1 ounce bourbon. Let sit for 4 weeks, agitating daily.

To make the cocktail, muddle sage leaves and back walnut tincture in a cocktail shaker.

Add remaining ingredients (except the grapes; reserve for garnish) and shake with ice.

Double strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with skewered gingerdusted grapes.

Photo by Melissa Pfeiffer

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5 Minutes With: Vanessa Caruso

As the manager of the Local Growers’ Guild, Vanessa Caruso is the soft-spoken force behind a cooperative of farmers, retailers and community members who are committed to growing a strong local food economy.

With about 200 members, including 60 growers, the Bloomington-based group is a champion for independent farms and food producers mostly in Southern Indiana, providing education, networking and outreach.

As the former farm manager for Stranger’s Hill Organics, a certified organic farm in Bloomington, Caruso knows that for growers, there is strength in numbers.

That’s where the guild steps in. This year, Caruso says, the guild hopes to set up a network for farmers that would allow them to aggregate their produce for distribution. Another goal: create a bulk ordering system to help farmers take advantage of reduced costs for common supplies.

The guild also plans to collaborate on a farmertraining program called Indiana New Farm School initiative.

“We recognize that we all support local food, but if we’re serious about it, we’re going to need a lot more farmers,” Caruso says.

—Erica Sagon Photo by Vinny Byer

Meal she’s still thinking about: Meatball sandwich and hot fudge brownie sundae from Lennie’s in Bloomington. Spring crush: Sugar snap peas. I like them raw, and I put them in a pasta salad with parsley and garlic chives. Sipping on: Upland’s Dragonfly IPA. It’s so well balanced and it pairs well with most meals and conversations. Recently discovered: Freedom Valley Farm’s spinach and red spinach at the Bloomington Winter Farmers Market.

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Loving Spoonfuls

Little Bits Find Bliss in Wedding Soup

By Andie Marshall Photos by Christina Richey

Marshall is a home cook whose fondness for soup began when she was a working mom. With soups, she always had nutritious, homemade and reheatable meals on hand.

Making this Italian wedding soup—a combination of leafy greens, mini meatballs and tiny pasta—motivates me to visit local butchers and markets in the spring. There are rainy and chilly days still ahead, but at the farmers’ market you can find an early crop of spinach to add the right amount of freshness to this soup.

Any dark leafy green, like kale or chard, would work, too.

Here’s how this recipe came to be: The Italian wedding soup served at a local restaurant is a favorite of our oldest granddaughter.

Despite valiant efforts, I have failed to get the recipe, so I have worked over the years to duplicate it. Originally, I used Italian sausage for the meatballs, but I made the switch to a combination of chicken and chicken sausage for a healthier, leaner soup.

Making the meatballs from scratch is a worthy extra step. Use a small melon ball scoop to shape uniformly sized meatballs—it’s easier and cleaner than rolling them by hand.

Warm, crusty Italian bread is a perfect pairing for this soup.

Where to get the goods For fresh, locally sourced chickens and chicken sausage, try area butchers like Moody’s Butcher Shop (locations in Avon and Zionsville, moodymeats.com) and Goose the Market (at 25th and Delaware streets, www.goosethemarket.com).

Find leafy greens at the Indy Winter Farmers’ Market (at the downtown Indianapolis City Market, www.indywinterfarmersmarket.org) and the Bloomington Winter Farmers’ Market (www.localgrowers.org/wintermarket.html).

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Italian Wedding Soup Recipe by Andie Marshall Serves 8

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For the meatballs:

For the soup:

1 small yellow onion, grated 4 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 1 tablespoon minced garlic 2 ⁄3 cup fresh white breadcrumbs, crust trimmed 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 extra large egg, slightly beaten 3 tablespoons milk 12 ounces ground chicken 8 ounces chicken sausage, casings removed ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons good olive oil 1 cup minced yellow onion 12 cups chicken broth ½ cup dry white wine 1 cup acini de pepe pasta (or pastina) Cooked meatballs (from the recipe above) Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 pound baby spinach, washed and trimmed Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for garnish

Preheat oven to 350° F.; line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a large bowl, mix the grated onion, parsley, minced garlic, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.

Add the beaten egg and milk, and mix well.

Add the ground chicken, chicken sausage and cheese, and mix well.

Use a small melon ball scoop to shape meatballs. The mixture should yield around 40 meatballs.

Place the meatballs on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes.

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Heat the olive oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat.

Add the onion and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes.

Add the chicken broth and wine and bring to a boil.

When boiling, add the pasta and simmer for 6 to 8 minutes, until pasta is tender.

Add the cooked meatballs and simmer for 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Stir in the spinach and cook until just wilted, about 1 minute.

Ladle soup into bowls and top with grated Parmesan cheese.

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Liquid Assets

SPRING CLEANING IN A CUP

by Shawndra Miller Photo by Dan Cooper

There comes a day every April when we open the windows and start to shake off the winter’s lethargy. Somehow, spring cleaning is good for the soul.

It’s also good for the body, as the lighter weather prompts an urge for internal spring cleaning—otherwise known as a cleanse. Cleansing can take many forms, from mild to draconian. But a simple cup of tea can be a gentle way to ease into cleansing or to support a new health regimen.

One local tea purveyor is passionate about the beverage’s healing properties and invigorating flavors. Peace Leaf Tea’s Christi Smallidge, who crafts her own blends from sustainable and organic sources, says whole-leaf green, white and red teas fill your cup with sheer unadulterated goodness, no matter what your health goals. “There’s a wellness feeling that goes with drinking them,” she says.

Peace Leaf is sold at Indy Winter Farmers’ Market (and other markets in the summer) and through Green B.E.A.N. Delivery. For a full list of locations or to buy online, visit peaceleaf.biz.

A trio of teas Jumpstart a spring cleanse with these custom blend green, white and red teas from Peace Leaf Tea. These tasting and cleansing notes will point you in the right direction.

The Green: Kyoto Garden Delicate cherry overlays the slight astringency of jasmine, a taste reminiscent of leisurely dinners eaten with chopsticks.

How it “cleans”: Antioxidants mop up the free radicals that lead to cellular damage. Smallidge says that the caffeine in green tea boosts your metabolism, helping you shed toxins while avoiding the adrenaldepleting effects of coffee. Green tea may help prevent hardening of the arteries and other health woes. Some say it boosts liver function and protects against the growth of cancer cells.

The White: Pomegranate Vanilla A pearlike tang is softened by mellow Madagascar vanilla that lingers on the tongue. This is the most refreshing of Smallidge’s teas to drink iced.

How it “cleans”: White tea is minimally processed, according to Smallidge, preserving even more antioxidants than green, so it can cause even more free radicals to bite the dust. Combine that with a minimal amount of caffeine and you have a potent addition to your health arsenal.

Kyoto Garden Tea

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The Red: Longevity Ginger lends a bright spiciness to rich, full-bodied rooibos.

How it “cleans”: Strictly speaking not a tea but an herbal tisane, rooibos is getting a reputation for aiding acne sufferers because it contains alpha-linoleic acid, says Smallidge. The health benefits of rooibos

Spring 2012

Tea time Fill your cup with this sampling of local tea retailers and tea rooms.

Peace Leaf Teas Sip at Mo’Joe Coffeehouse, buy at Indy Winter Farmers’ Market and elsewhere. peaceleaf.biz Humboldt County Tea Company Order a cup at Cornerstone Coffee House, purchase online. www.humboldtcountytea.com Irvington Iris Tea Room A spot for afternoon tea, as well as breakfast and lunch.

130 S. Audubon Rd., Indianapolis; 317-356-4400; www.BloomzByMiranda.com

are augmented in Longevity by the inclusion of “green” rooibos, an unfermented version of the herb with even higher antioxidant levels than fermented rooibos. Ginger, a vasodilator, makes this a great tonic for the circulatory system. This blend is also perfect for nipping spring colds in the bud. “Our most medicinal tea,” Smallidge says.

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Local tea experts share their best tea tips.

Make a fresh start: Peace Leaf Tea’s Smallidge advises using the freshest tea possible. “If it’s been sitting on a warehouse shelf for who knows how long, the amount of antioxidants you’re going to get will be a lot less.”

Taste the whole leaf: Whole-leaf teas are tops when it comes to flavor and nutrient profile. Humboldt County Tea Company’s Dan Minear notes, “You get a stronger, more concentrated dose of polyphenols, flavonoids and chlorophyll when using the wholeleaf product.” Polyphenols and flavonoids have antioxidant properties.

Test the water: “You can ruin good tea with poor-quality water,” says Lalith Guy Paranavitana of Columbus’s Empire Tea Services, a tea importer marketing to tea shops nationwide. He advises using a reverse osmosis filter or bottled spring water. Hard water is the enemy of good tea, so invest in a water softener.

Turn down the heat: Only black and herbal teas do well with boiling water; white and green tea leaves are easily scorched and should be steeped at 170°, according to Irvington Iris Tea Room’s Miranda Marsico. “A lot of people say they don’t like green tea because it’s bitter, but that’s because it’s scorched,” she says.

Put a lid on it: Smallidge notes, “Ideally you want to cover [your cup] when steeping. The essential oils are where the polyphenols are, and they evaporate quickly otherwise.”

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Edible Season

Spearheading a new season Story and photos by Cassie Johnston

Asparagus and goat cheese tart with balsamic drizzle

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Among the lingering winter weather is a sign that warmer days are to come: a pencil-thin spear poking out of the ground. Asparagus is here—and with it, the first signal that spring is here to stay.

Spring 2012

Harvesting the first spears of asparagus is one of the greatest joys in a gardener’s life.

Asparagus spears emerge when the soil temperature reaches 50°—still frigid by the standards of many plants—making this one of the earliest crops harvested.

Growing the perennial is a test of patience. For the first years the yield is minimal.

Eventually, though, a well-established plant can produce for decades. Nancy Barton, organizer of the Burkhart Community Garden in Rocky Ripple, explains that their asparagus plants have been producing since the early 1990s. “Today’s gardeners share in the maintenance and harvesting of this gift that nourishes us year after year,” says Barton.

In the basket While green asparagus spears are easy to find, other varieties are showing up in local markets, as well. Purple asparagus has a deep plum hue and a sweet flavor. White asparagus is grown completely underground. The resulting vegetable is tender, ivory colored and mild flavored.

When shopping for asparagus, look for tightly packed heads and thin stalks. Stalks thicker than the size of a pinkie finger can be woody and lack flavor. Asparagus bundles at local farmers’ markets are usually available in late April, says Molly Trueblood, market manager at the Indy Winter Farmers’ Market. Trueblood reminds shoppers to act fast because only a handful of vendors stock asparagus and they always sell out.

ASPARAGUS AND GOAT CHEESE TART WITH HONEY BALSAMIC DRIZZLE This appetizer looks elegant and timeconsuming, but it comes together in just a few minutes. The simple flavors allow the freshness of the local asparagus to shine through. Be sure to pick up recently harvested spears for the best flavor.

Recipe by Cassie Johnston Makes 6 servings 1 sheet frozen puff pastry, defrosted Flour, for rolling 6 ounces soft goat cheese 1 pound asparagus, woody stems trimmed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons honey 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

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On the plate Long spears of asparagus are inherently elegant when served simply roasted with a drizzle of oil.

However, many local chefs are using asparagus to experiment with the flavors of the spring season. On the menu at local restaurants you’ll find asparagus soups, salads and side dishes.

The bright flavor of asparagus makes it easy to experiment at home, as well. Pair the tender spears with heavy cream-based recipes to add a touch of spring to traditionally winter dishes.

Asparagus also beams when used in egg dishes like frittatas or quiches. Just remember: Asparagus is a strong flavor and will shine through wherever it’s used.

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Preheat oven to 400° F. On a floured surface, roll out puff pastry to a 10- by 15-inch rectangle. Trim edges evenly. Place pastry on a parchment-covered baking sheet.

Using a sharp knife, lightly score a 1-inch border inside of the pastry.

Using a fork, pierce dough inside of the border every ¼ inch. Bake in preheated oven for 12–15 minutes or until golden brown.

Reduce oven heat to 325°. Crumble goat cheese onto tart shell. Top with asparagus spears and push down gently to meld into goat cheese.

Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Bake for an additional 20–25 minutes or until asparagus is very tender and goat cheese softened.

While tart is baking, whisk together honey and balsamic vinegar. When tart comes out of oven, drizzle mixture over top. Cut tart into slices and serve.

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WHITE ASPARAGUS BISQUE This creamy soup is standard fare in Northern Europe, where the white asparagus is king. White asparagus is very delicate and, unlike its green brother, must be peeled before eating. The subtle, light flavor is worth the delicate work. Even asparagus haters will be intrigued by this bisque.

Recipe by Cassie Johnston Makes 4 servings 2 pounds white asparagus 2 tablespoons butter 1 medium onion, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 5 cups vegetable broth ½ cup dry white wine ⅔ cup heavy cream Salt and pepper, to taste Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

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Trim off the woody ends of the asparagus. Peel the asparagus by laying each spear flat on a cutting board and gently peeling the thin layer of skin with a vegetable peeler.

In a large Dutch oven over medium-low heat, melt butter. Add onion and garlic and sauté until soft and tender, about 5 minutes. Add in asparagus, broth and wine. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 30–40 minutes or until asparagus is very tender.

Remove from heat and purée using an immersion blender or purée in batches in a regular blender.

Return purée to pot on heat and stir in cream, salt and pepper. Heat until soup is warmed through, but do not boil the cream.

Serve topped with a swirl of extra-virgin olive oil.

Spring 2012

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Which CSA Is Right for You: A Guide

By Cassie Johnston

Name

Location

A Cook’s Garden by Heartland Family Farm

Bedford

Aspire Indiana Basic Roots

Indianapolis

Big City Farms

Indianapolis

Blooming Gardens

Rockville

Boondocks Farms

Knightstown

Core Farms

Bloomington

Ewenique Sheep Produce and Grains FarmIndy

Ready to join the CSA revolution?

It’s open enrollment season for community-supported agriculture (CSA) shares, and we’re fortunate to have so many to choose from in Central Indiana.

Our guide to summer produce CSAs will point you in the right direction.

Here’s how CSAs work: By purchasing a share of produce for a set price at the beginning of the growing season, CSA members help alleviate the monetary risk a local farmer takes each season. In return, members are rewarded throughout the season—typically once a week or every other week—with a box of fresh, local and often organic produce.

Bounties vary, of course, but that’s the fun of it.

Once you’ve found your farm, contact them directly to get your CSA membership started.

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Anderson

Bloomington, Columbus Indianapolis, Franklin

Farming Engineers

Kirklin

Homestead Farms

Fairland

Irvington LIFE Certified Organic Farm Living Roots

Indianapolis Monroe and Morgan counties Bloomington, Jasper

Lost Pond Farm

Bloomington

Martin Hollow Farm

Bloomington

South Circle Farm

Indianapolis

Spring Hill Farm

Morgantown/Nashville

Sprout Urban Farm

Indianapolis

Stranger’s Hill Organics

Bloomington

Tranquill Ridge Farm

Crawfordsville

Urban Peasant Valentine Hill Farm

Knightstown Zionsville

Spring 2012

Growing Method

Length

Start Date

Naturally grown

24 weeks

Mid-May

Naturally grown

22 weeks

June

Year-round (shares are available once a month)

Year-round

Chemical-free, sustainable methods, urban gardening

22 weeks

Mid-May

Natural and sustainable

25 weeks

Late May

Naturally grown

20 weeks

Mid-June

Organic, transitional, and conventional

20 weeks

Early May

Naturally grown

22 weeks

June

Certified naturally grown, open-pollinated, non-GMO, biodynamic growing practices

21 weeks

June

Transitional organic

16 weeks

Mid-June

Naturally grown

10 weeks

April

Chemical-free, sustainable methods

25 weeks

Early May

Certified organic

28 weeks

Late April

No spray, naturally grown, sustainable

24 weeks

Mid-May

No synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides

26 weeks

Mid-May

Natural, sustainable

20 weeks

Mid-May

Non-certified organic

23 weeks

Mid-May

All natural methods

25 weeks

Mid-April

Half share: 10 weeks Full share: 20 weeks

Early June

Certified organic

22 weeks

May

Organic seeds, soil amendments and pest controls

20 weeks

May

Half share: 10 weeks Full share: 20 weeks

June

21 weeks

June

Sustainably grown; sourced from a variety of farms

Chemical-free, sustainable methods, urban gardening

Naturally grown Chemical-free, sustainable methods

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Name A Cook’s Garden by Heartland Family Farm

Available shares

Half share (feeds 1-2) Full share (feeds 2 adults, 2 children)

Aspire Indiana Single share (feeds 2) • Double share (feeds 4) Basic Roots Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4) Big City Farms Small share (feeds 2) • Large share (feeds 4)

$350, half • $600, full $350, single • $600, double $45, half • $60, full, per month $375-$500, small • $650-$850, large

Blooming Gardens Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4)

$330, half • $520, full

Boondocks Farms Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4)

$285, half • $540, full

Core Farms

Half share (feeds 1) • Full share (feeds 2) 1-1/2 share (feeds 3) • Two shares (feeds 4)

Ewenique Sheep Produce and Grains Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4) FarmIndy Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4) Farming Engineers

Regular share (feeds 1-2) Large share (feeds 2-4)

Homestead Farms Full share (feeds 2-4) Irvington Full share (feeds 4) LIFE Certified Organic Farm Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4) Living Roots Half share (feeds 1-2) • Full share (feeds 3-4)

$325, half • $600, full $850, 1-1/2 • $1,100, 2 $325, half • $545, full $33/week for large box; $21 for regular box $300, regular • $500, large $450 $520 $455, half • $791, full Bloomington: $350, half; $625, full Jasper: $300, half; $525, full

Lost Pond Farm Full share (feeds 1-2)

$350

Martin Hollow Farm Full share (feeds 2-4)

$500

South Circle Farm Full share (feeds 2-4)

$550

Spring Hill Farm Full share (feeds 4) Sprout Urban Farm

Half share (feeds 2-3, every other week) Full share (feeds 2-3, every week)

$770 (Barter and workshares are available) $350, half • $550, full

Stranger’s Hill Organics Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4)

$375, half • $650, full

Tranquill Ridge Farm Half share (feeds 2) • Full share (feeds 4)

$325, half • $525, full

Urban Peasant

Half share (1/2 bushel, 10 weeks) Full share (1/2 bushel, 20 weeks)

Valentine Hill Farm Small share (feeds 2) • Large share (feeds 4)

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Cost

edible indy

$300, half • $550, full $370, small • $550, large

Spring 2012

Extras/Add-ons

Drop Locations

Winter share extension; egg share available; cooking events Bedford, Bloomington Spring extension

Anderson, Carmel, Indianapolis (downtown), Noblesville, Zionsville

Eggs and meat available

North Indianapolis

None

Broad Ripple, Indianapolis (downtown)

None

Carmel

Beef, pork, lamb, chicken, rabbit and egg shares available; Knightstown ability to select items in box each week Hands-on workshops, family garden series

Bloomington

Grains and lamb shares available; farm tours

Bloomington, Columbus

Fruit and eggs available; customizable shares

Avon, Broad Ripple, Carmel, Danville, Fishers, Franklin, Geist, Greenwood, Indianapolis, Irvington, Plainfield, Zionsville

Spring and fall share extensions; chicken shares available Carmel, Noblesville, Zionsville Turkey, chicken and egg additions available

Fairland

Maple syrup, honey, eggs available

Irvington

Shiitake mushrooms, bread, meat, egg, coffee, and cheese Bloomington, Indianapolis shares available Herbal products, recipes, cooking and gardening classes Bloomington, Jasper included None

Bloomington

None

Bloomington

Berries, flowers and produce available for purchase upon Indianapolis pick up Eggs, chicken, turkey and pork available

Bloomington and Indianapolis

None

Fountain Square

Farm tours, workshops, potlucks

Bloomington

Ability to select items in box each week through online Carmel, Crawfordsville, Indianapolis, Lafayette, West Lafayette CSA store None

Greenfield, Indianapolis, Knightstown, Rushville

Baked goods and pasta share available; spring and fall share Broad Ripple, Indianapolis, Zionsville extensions www.edibleindy.com

17

Name A Cook’s Garden by Heartland Family Farm Aspire Indiana Basic Roots

Available in Bloomington Not available Free in Indianapolis

Information

heartlandfamilyfarm@comcast.net, 812-797-6274 www.yourmarketgarden.org Sue Spicer, basicroots4u@yahoo.com

Big City Farms

Not available

www.bigcityfarmsindy.com, matthew@bigcityfarmsindy.com

Blooming Gardens

Not available

www.indianapoliscsa.com

Boondocks Farms

$30 per season

www.boondocksfarms.com

Core Farms

$100 per season

www.corefarmscsa.org

Ewenique Sheep Produce and Grains

Free in Columbus and Seymour

www.localharvest.org/ewenique-icelandicsheep-farm-M18430

FarmIndy

Not available

www.farmindy.com

Farming Engineers

Not available

burkefarm.wordpress.com

Homestead Farms

Not available

homesteadfarms.webs.com

Irvington

Not available

www.irvingtoncsa.com

LIFE Certified Organic Farm

$8 per week

www.lifefarmcsa.com

Living Roots

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Delivery

Jasper: $125 per season.

Not available in Bloomington.

www.indianacommunity.org

Lost Pond Farm

Not available

www.lostpondfarm.com

Martin Hollow Farm

Not available

www.martinhollowfarm.com

South Circle Farm

Not available

www.southcirclefarm.com

Spring Hill Farm

Not available

springhillfarm77@gmail.com

Sprout Urban Farm

Not available

sprouturbanfarm.wordpress.com

Stranger’s Hill Organics

Not available

www.strangershillorganics.com

Tranquill Ridge Farm

Not available

www.tranquilridgefarm.com

Urban Peasant

Not available

Rick Cole, 317-519-2722

Valentine Hill Farm

Not available

www.valentinehillfarm.com

edible indy

Spring 2012

www.edibleindy.com

19

Edible Traditions

Syruping Tradition Gets Sweeter With Time at Orchard School

By Shawndra Miller Photos courtesy of The Orchard School

Fred Lorenz captures the attention of young students while making pancakes, circa 1960’s.

It takes three ingredients to create maple syrup: sap, fire and time.

So says Vicky Prusinski, Orchard School’s elementary science teacher. A final critical ingredient, knowledge, undergirds the other three. Ask any student or alum of Orchard, where the first-graders are at the helm of a tradition almost as old as the school. Nearly every year for eight decades now, Orchard students have tapped maple trees and boiled the sap down to syrup.

As early as 1927, the school began tapping trees and boiling sap at its original location. The Indianapolis Star that spring boasted, “500 quarts taken from a maple sugar camp right in the City of Indianapolis!”

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Today, the tradition continues in the two-acre maple grove flanking Orchard, a private school that serves preschool through eighthgrade students. Each year, roughly in late February, the first-graders follow the exact syruping process taken by earlier generations of Orchard students.

Meanwhile, teachers and faculty keep the custom alive. The late Fred Lorenz, an avid outdoorsman, came on board as the shop teacher in 1948. His daughter, Linda Lorenz Norton, says he loved to introduce children to the great outdoors, even opening Brown County’s Gnaw Bone Camp to continue his passion during summers. She was a first

Spring 2012

Orchard students watch the flowing sap, circa 1960’s

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“When Dad discovered the woods were full of sugar maple trees, we just had to get out there and tap them,” Lorenz Norton says. grader in the 1950s when Orchard moved to its current 50-acre campus on West 64th Street.

“When Dad discovered the woods were full of sugar maple trees, we just had to get out there and tap them,” Lorenz Norton says.

Lorenz’s commitment to the school continued past his retirement, says Diana Shellhaas, the school’s outdoor education coordinator, who now coordinates the tree tapping along with Prusinski. When Shellhaas started out 27 years ago, Lorenz returned to teach her how to tap the trees, using the same equipment he had repurposed from army surplus supplies.

“It truly is an ingrained tradition at our school,” she says.

Sourcing Sweetness

Current day Orchard students watch the flowing sap

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On a December afternoon, sunshine slants through the maple grove next to Orchard. It’s quiet now, but in a few months the excited shouts of first-graders will echo through the trees as they discover what every Orchard student knows: These trees are the source of a distinctively tasty sweetness. The first-grade class numbers about 60, and over the course of a couple days, the children will tap 50 trees.

Walking through the woods, it’s easy to picture children trundling buckets full of sap to the outdoor shelter—rechristened the “sugar shack” during maple syrup days—and then racing back to replace the empties.

Prusinski says that today’s 45° weather would be perfect if it occurred during syruping time’s three-week window, a late winter period around President’s Day in February. Sap typically fills the buckets with a slow drip, but on a day like this in late February? “You would have a true run,” Prusinski says.

But there’s more to making maple syrup than collecting sap.

Prusinski starts the youngsters off by having them research where maple syrup comes from, sweetening the deal with taste tests. She then moves on to tree identification, tricky business when all the leaves have fallen.

Once they master that, kids try their hands at measuring the circumference of a tree to make sure it’s large enough to withstand tapping.

There’s also a meteorological component to their preparations, since getting the timing just right is key. “Temperatures have to be above 32° during the day and below [that] at night, so the sap runs up and down the tree,” Prusinski explains.

“It’s sort of like ‘make hay while the sun shines’—you make maple syrup while the sun shines,” she says.

On the first day, the kids use a brace and bit to make a hole in the soft wood of each tree, then insert the metal spout, called a spile. Each student monitors one spile for the next few days. Hanging the buckets is followed by waiting for that telltale drip—an exercise in delayed gratSpring 2012

ification. As the sap begins to flow, the kids measure the output. When enough sap has been collected, which might take several days depending on the weather, it’s time to boil it down over a big fire. This activity, in turn, lends itself to a discussion of evaporation. Every step is linked to active learning.

The lesson must stick, because Shellhaas reports that many parents end up asking where they can get spiles for home use. “Kids are so excited that they want to tap sugar maple trees in their yard.” She counts it as a victory that successive generations are learning “they don’t have to go to the grocery store to buy everything.”

Each year, roughly in late February, the first-graders follow the exact syruping process taken by earlier generations of Orchard students.

Pancakes Put It to the Test They’re also finding out that there’s little contest when the rich flavor of real maple syrup goes up against its store-bought cousin.

The final piece of the tradition allows everyone to experience that full-bodied sweetness of real maple syrup over pancakes. “Long ago,” says Shellhaas, “[when] the school was so much smaller … the kids would all bring in whatever they wanted to cook for breakfast and they’d set up the griddles and the big iron skillets over the fire and kids would cook their breakfast.”

Norton recalls those days with fondness. “The standard joke was, it was an extra challenge to eat your syrupy pancake while wearing your mittens.”

These days, it’s a little different, but the spirit of the custom remains.

At the close of syruping time, children in each grade come outside for a pancake cooked to perfection on Lorenz’s original army surplus griddles over the outdoor fire. Breakfast consists of a “pancake taco”—a rolled up pancake filled with syrup, eaten without utensils or a plate.

That smoky-sweet taste can transport an Orchard grad straight back to childhood. Many alumni get that chance at the school’s annual Pancake Day, held in early March, where the fruits of the firstgraders’ labor are served up to some 500 Orchard community members. The syrup isn’t sold or made available elsewhere, keeping this tradition as close to the source as it can possibly get.

www.edibleindy.com

23

Keeping It Local Indy’s only co-op grocer brings economic and personal health to the Near Eastside

By Caroline Mosey Photos by Christina Richey

When Pogue’s Run Grocer opened its doors in December 2010 on Indy’s Near Eastside, its founders had a vision of providing natural, locally sourced foods to a predominately low-income community.

Somewhere along the way, the vision became reality for the co-op grocery store—a reality to the tune of 520 supporting members and counting.

The store is located in what’s known as the 10 East Business District, where signs of revitalization are springing up fast. New businesses and retailers have begun to put down roots in the neighborhood.

Pogue’s Run is Indianapolis’ only co-op grocery store. And what exactly is a co-op grocery store? For starters, it’s member-owned and anyone can join. Membership isn’t required to shop, but it is encouraged for those who support the goals of the co-op and want to help it succeed. Members, who pay a one-time fee of $125, collectively own the store and participate along with board members in decisions that affect the business.

Indy Food Co-op, which aims to provide access to affordable healthy foods in urban Indianapolis, put almost four years into planning and securing members to invest in the nonprofit grocer and its community-minded concept.

Now with their first year behind them, the staff at Pogue’s Run opens up about the trials and triumphs dotting the last 12 months.

Nate Roberts, the store’s general manager, slowly walks the length of the store, pointing out the variety of product brands and price tags.

Lining the shelves are local labels from producers like Smoking Goose, the meat-curing arm of Indy’s Goose the Market; Traders Point Creamery, a dairy producer in Zionsville; Fermenti Artisan, which ferments veggies grown on its Indy farm. The homegrown products share space with a range of other brands. Providing high-quality, local products is the mission of the co-op, but maintaining affordable prices is key.

“We want to merge the gap between regular retailers and farmers’ markets,” Roberts says. “We don’t want to alienate anyone based on what we carry. Our goal is to be fair and even.”

That’s not to say there weren’t growing pains in getting there.

“When we first opened, the milk we were stocking was $8 a gallon,” says Renee Sweany, marketing manager for Pogue’s Run. “With prices like that, we definitely lost some customers off the bat. And I get that.”

Sweany says they were eventually able to begin selling organic milk for $3.89, on par with most other grocery stores.

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“It’s a learning experience,” she says.

Despite early hiccups, the grocer has seen speedy growth since then, celebrating success of their ongoing goal to bring what Sweany calls “real food” to the neighborhood.

For Sweany, the difference between a co-op and a typical grocery store comes down to connection. Situated on a stretch of East 10th Street that’s undergoing redevelopment as part of the Super Bowl Legacy Project, Pogue’s Run is providing the immediate neighborhood with more than just fresh, organic food.

“The money you spend in a co-op supporting local producers stays in your community and uplifts it,” Sweany says.

Much of the food comes from sources nearby, connecting local producers with consumers and the community as a whole.

Considered a full-service grocery store, Pogue’s Run offers much of what a larger store would offer, albeit on a smaller scale and with an emphasis on environmentally friendly products. Customers can find fresh produce (locally sourced when possible from organic growers like South Circle Farm, located two miles south of downtown), meats, cheeses, frozen foods and paper or cleaning products, along with a broad selection of bulk spices and dry goods. Buying in bulk, Sweany points out, is better for the environment because it cuts down on packaging, and is less expensive when you buy only what you need.

The store also features a deli serving freshly prepared sandwiches and soups. Lunch specials are offered on weekdays and there’s plenty of seating in the café area, where shoppers can grab a cup of Jameson Coffee, roasted in Greencastle. Chef Luke Caenepeel keeps the lunch crowd happy with sandwiches and wraps running the gamut from vegan Reubens to roast beef with horseradish cheddar, keeping in step with the co-op’s mission to serve local ingredients wherever possible.

And it’s this philosophy that is keeping Indy’s only co-op grocer humming. Looking ahead, Indy Co-op’s long-term goals include opening more stores in other areas of town.

“But for now,” Sweany says, “we want to focus on Pogue’s Run and continuing to fuel this community.”

Details: 2828 E. 10th St.; 317-426-4963; www.poguesrungrocer.org Recipe from the deli at Pogue's Run on page 27.

Spring 2012

Chef Luke Caenepeel preparing the I Pita the Fool wrap, Recipe on page 27.

Marketing manager Renee Sweany

5 Tips from the Inside • • • • •

Bulk spices and dry goods like quinoa and pasta are offered at great prices. Bags are available, but cut down on packaging even further by bringing in your own containers.

Pogue’s Run carries plenty of specialty items for restricted diets. Look for gluten-free, dairy-free and soy-based products.

Lunch specials are offered M–F from 11am to 2pm and include your choice of sandwich, soup or chips and a drink for $6.99. (Hint: The Tuscan Turkey sandwich is a customer favorite.)

The deli now offers catering services. A catering menu is posted on www.poguesrungrocer.org.

Members who volunteer two hours per month at the store earn a 10% discount.

www.edibleindy.com

25

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Spring 2012

I Pita the Fool From the deli at Pogue’s Run Grocer, here’s a recipe for curried tempeh salad tucked into wheat pitas. Tempeh is a cultured and slightly fermented soy product that has a slight nuttiness when roasted, as in this recipe. And the story behind the name of this lunch dish? Pogue’s Run chef Luke Caenepeel says, “I pita the fool that doesn’t try tempeh at least once!”

Recipe by chef Luke Caenepeel Makes 4 servings 2 8-ounce packages of tempeh 1 cup Vegenaise (vegan mayonnaise substitute) 2 teaspoons curry powder ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ cup dried cranberries 4 whole-wheat pitas 1 small package of washed baby spinach 1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

www.edibleindy.com

Preheat oven to 350°.

Cut tempeh into medium-size dice and place on a baking sheet. Roast in oven for 10 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and cool thoroughly.

In a bowl, combine Vegenaise, curry and cumin. Mix with a whisk.

When the tempeh is cool, combine with the curry mixture and the dried cranberries.

Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to allow the flavors to meld.

Place a little of the spinach onto each pita, followed by a quarter of the curried tempeh mixture. Top with chopped cilantro.

27

From the Good Earth

Harmony with Land: Community Nourishes Fields of Agape

By Erica Sagon Photos by Alex and Sonja Overhiser

Each of these flax pods contain eight flax seeds. Each pod starts as a periwinkle blue flower, which falls off the stem and turns into a pod with seeds. Fields of Agape's flax fields are a beautiful array of the blue flowers in the early part of growth.

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edible indy

Spring 2012

Anna Welch stands in the kitchen of her log house in rural Carthage, about 40 miles east of Indianapolis. Muffins, made with the organic wheat bran she grows, are in the oven.

Her back is to a large window above the kitchen sink, offering a view of fields and a white farmhouse next door—the home where she grew up and where her 90-year-old parents still live.

“I’m called to be a farmer,” Welch says confidently, pulling the muffins from the oven and setting them on the kitchen table. “It’s something that makes sense to me.”

the farm was enlisted by the nonprofit Farm Aid to contribute beans for a vegetarian chili served at some Super Bowl XLVI events in Indianapolis.

Before Bloomingfoods stocked Fields of Agape, the grocer’s staff visited the Welches to see how they farm, clean and store the food, says Ellen Michel, marketing and outreach manager for Bloomingfoods.

“They’re really pioneers,” Michel says of the Welches. “Finding quality grains and beans and seeds in Indiana is challenging because we’re mostly a corn and soybean state.”

Fields of Agape's products are sold at Pogue's Run Grocer and Good Earth in Indianapolis, Bloomingfoods in Bloomington, and at Indy Winter Farmers Market and Green Market at Traders Point Creamery.

Welch started Fields of Agape, a certified organic farm, to grow what she calls staples: grains, beans and seeds. Crops for this year include buckwheat, golden flax, black beans and cranberry beans. Fields of Agape is a cooperative farm, meaning that Welch has partnerships with farmers who share fields and equipment. Anna and her husband, Keith, are at the helm, planting and harvesting 60 acres of crops, then cleaning and packaging them to sell.

This farm, these particular crops, the meticulous way they are grown—this makes Fields of Agape a rare find in Indiana. Fields of Agape became certified organic in January, though Welch has been using organic growing methods from the start, in 2005.

The certification is a feather in their cap—an affirmation of what they’ve been doing for the past seven years. Yes, they’ve been onto something special for quite some time, even without the organic label.

FIELD TO FORK Fields of Agape is called out by name on the menu at Bloomington’s Farm restaurant, where Chef Daniel Orr has nimbly paired the Welches’ red beans with cumin-rubbed hanger steak.

Wheat berries (a grain), golden flax seed and popping corn from Fields of Agape fill the bulk bins at Pogue’s Run Grocer in Indianapolis and at Bloomingfoods co-op grocery stores in Bloomington. And,

But that doesn’t mean it’s been easy for the Welches to get their food from field to fork.

“We sell no food locally,” Welch says, referring to Carthage and other small communities nearby. “This area is very traditional in industrialized agriculture.

“If we didn’t have the Bloomington and Indianapolis markets, we wouldn’t be able to survive.”

WHO’S WHO That gap is the very reason that Fields of Agape is a co-op farm. Over time, our lifestyle has become disconnected from the land, Welch says.

She doesn’t see Fields of Agape as just a farm that turns out crops.

It’s a way to partner with other growers and producers to develop and nurture a local food system, one that is connected and sustainable.

Within Fields of Agape, that means creating a trusted co-op community.

Judith Avery is one member. Avery comes from a traditional farming family, but supports the Welches’ organic mission. She lends her personal land in nearby Henry County for the Welches to farm. This is where much of Field of Agape’s crops are grown, and the Welches’ land makes up the rest.

“They’re really pioneers...Finding quality grains and beans and seeds in Indiana is challenging because we’re mostly a corn and soybean state.” www.edibleindy.com

29

“It never leaves our hands,” Welch says of the food that travels through the co-op. “That’s why the infrastructure is so important. Every time you let the product go somewhere else, you lose control of it. I want to ensure every part of the process.”

Another partner is Patty Reding of Langeland Farms, a familyowned and -operated farm in Greensburg. Reding is an associate grower who contributes popcorn and small red beans to Fields of Agape. Reding also offers up her large cleaning machines that can handle large batches of crops when the yields are too overwhelming for the Welches’ smaller equipment.

Then there’s Tim Shutt, owner of Hanover Grist Mill in Morrison. He grinds Fields of Agape’s cornmeal and flour. And the Welches lease space at a historic lumber mill in Carthage, owned by Anna’s sister, where they keep their grain cleaner, plus commercial kitchen equipment to package products.

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“It never leaves our hands,” Welch says of the food that travels through the co-op. “That’s why the infrastructure is so important.

Every time you let the product go somewhere else, you lose control of it. I want to ensure every part of the process.”

FAMILY TIES Welch’s roots inspire the way she lives today. Outside the neighboring farmhouse that she can see from her kitchen window, Welch’s parents, who were teachers, raised milk and beef cows, pigs and lamb when she was young. They were “totally sustainable,” Welch says.

A 35-acre field that belongs to her parents sits between their house and the Welches’ log cabin. Welch hopes to transition the field to an organic one this year to grow black beans and cranberry beans.

They are poised to increase their production, but finding dependable skilled labor has been a problem. Keith has a full-time job and also works the fields. Meanwhile, Anna is full-time with Fields of Agape, and uses her background in finance and technology to handle the financial and business planning for the farm.

Welch started growing organic food for health reasons, and now the benefits of particular foods drive the crop list. For example, black beans are a good source of folic acid, which has been shown to prevent certain birth defects, and flaxseed is rich in omega-3, the same healthful fatty acids found in salmon that improve heart health.

The first two years that Anna and Keith Welch grew and harvested flax and small grains, they used this harvester, which is like a combine that runs behind a tractor.

Spring 2012

BERNIE’S WHEAT BRAN MUFFINS

GOING ORGANIC When it came time to apply for organic certification, Welch felt prepared—she had been growing organically all along. For seven years, she documented her farming and made field maps. She adhered to rules on seeds, soil, water, natural pest and weed control, and never used chemicals.

Cissy Bowman, an organic certification consultant and owner of Center Valley Organics in Clayton, says Fields of Agape’s operations prove that thousands of acres aren’t necessary to be a successful grower.

Bowman, a longtime figure in Indiana agriculture, says Welch is going “above and beyond with diversity of the crops and utilization of small space. That’s smart farming.”

Bowman says the farm stands out in Indiana for having an unusual collection of crops. In the upcoming growing season, Welch says she’ll experiment with French blue lentils.

She’ll start small, as she did one day in 2005 when she purchased heirloom seeds from a seed exchange. She planted a dozen 4- by 10-foot plots that would eventually become French blue lentils and garbanzo beans.

“It was a life-changing day,” Welch says. “It rebirthed this love of agriculture in me.”

Details: For a complete list of retailers and more info, visit www.fieldsofagape.com.

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Recipe courtesy of Anna Welch Yields 6 muffins 1 cup organic wheat bran ¾ cup milk 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup soft shortening or olive oil 1 cup organic whole-wheat flour 2½ teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt ¼ cup brown sugar or honey

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2.

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Combine wheat bran and milk, and let stand until most of the moisture is absorbed.

Add beaten egg and shortening or oil, and beat well.

In a separate bowl, mix flour, baking powder and salt. Add to the wheat bran mixture.

Mix in brown sugar or honey.

Pour mixture into greased muffin pan. Bake at 400° for 30 minutes, or until golden brown.

31

Owner Abraha Belachew

Clockwise from top, beef, chicken and egg, and lamb all made with traditional Ethiopian spices.

Delicious red lentils, collard greens, corn and potatoes with carrots.

Owner Tiruye Yilma making the injera, a spongy flatbread made from Ethiopian brown flour.

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Spring 2012

In the Kitchen

Feeding All Five Senses A peek into Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant on Indy’s west side

By Marcia Ellett Photos by Kelley Jordan Heneveld

Owner Tiruye Yilma roasting coffee beans

The messob, a hand-sewn type of grass plate, with potates and carrots, collard greens and red lentils.

www.edibleindy.com

Fifteen years ago, Abraha Belachew came to Indianapolis from his native northern Ethiopia to visit a friend and found a new home.

“I saw it was a quiet city, a nice city,” Belachew says, “and I decided to stay.”

Relocating with his wife, Tiruye Yilma, and two daughters, he put down roots, joined the growing Ethiopian community in Indianapolis and laid the groundwork for what would become the Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant and import store, which Belachew opened in 2003 on 38th Street between Georgetown and Moller roads on Indy’s west side.

His aim is to provide restaurant patrons with an authentic, fresh and healthy Ethiopian dining experience, and to continue his homeland’s tradition of strengthening the ties of family and friendship over food.

“Gather around the messob [a hand-sewn type of grass plate] made for a group to eat from the same platter,” says Belachew on the cover of his menu. He goes on to explain that sharing the same plate and injera, a spongy flatbread made from Ethiopian brown flour, is socially significant in his culture.

“It is said that people who eat from the same plate will never betray one another,” he adds.

What awaits at the family-friendly Abyssinia is, indeed, an authentic Ethiopian meal and atmosphere that Belachew and his wife work hard to maintain. She comes in early each morning to bake the

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Ethiopian coffee, similar to espresso being poured in traditional tea cups.

injera that is used in lieu of silverware for picking up mouthfuls of lunch or dinner. And Belachew is the head chef, his repertoire a smorgasbord of chicken, lamb, beef, goat, egg, red lentils, yellow beans, bell peppers and cabbage, among many other ingredients.

Dishes that are scooped up with injera include yemisir wot, red lentils cooked in a tangy pepper sauce; tikei gemen, a mixture of potatoes and cabbage in a butter-based sauce; and awaze tibs, dice pieces of lean lamb sautéed with onions, green peppers andawaze, a spiced red pepper sauce.

Freshness is of the utmost importance to him. He seeks out meat and produce from local sources whenever possible and says, “I don’t use anything frozen.

“You come for lunch, you come for dinner, you want healthy food,” he explains.

His spices, however, are imported from Ethiopia, and those who fall in love with the tasty heat of the spicy red chili pepper he uses in a number of his sauces can purchase it in the attached import store, along with Ethiopian coffee, teff (Ethiopian flour), special clay coffee pots and even hair oil.

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Belachew recalls the first few years of operation were challenging.

“It was very difficult to get a customer,” he said.

Today that has changed. Word of mouth has garnered many customers, who come from all over the city for an Ethiopian experience that engages all the senses. Hoosier accents and foreign accents intermingle with the traditional Ethiopian music playing lightly over Abyssinia’s sound system to create a unique symphony while diners enjoy the tactile experience of eating with their fingers from dishes vibrant with the colors of red and green bell peppers and the earthy tones of meat and lentils. Ethiopian coffee served in small cups and accompanied by the sweet aroma of burning incense is a traditional topper to a meal and an invitation for continued conversation.

This makes Belachew happy. “I like to cook,” he says, and in doing so, he shares a culture-rich piece of his old homeland with his new one.

Details: 5352 W. 38th Street, Indianapolis; 317-299-0608; www.abyssiniarestaurant.com.

Spring 2012

www.edibleindy.com

35

Garden Variety Community and urban green spaces thrive in Indy

By Amy Lynch Photos by Angela Herrmann

Gardens in Indy’s urban spaces are thriving. The JW Marriott is the backdrop for the Wishard Slow Food Garden in downtown Indianapolis.

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Spring 2012

Indianapolis-area community gardens and urban gardens are growing by leaps and bounds. All over town, plots and patches are newly being cultivated, even in some of the most surprising locations.

Center Township alone was home to more than 50 urban vegetable gardens last year, according to the mayor’s office, with others in the works.

A driving force is Mayor Greg Ballard’s urban gardens program, a collaborative effort by the Department of Metropolitan Development, the Indianapolis Land Bank and the Office of Sustainability. The program turns underutilized urban spaces into productive vegetable gardens in order to provide healthy food within “food deserts”—inner-city neighborhoods that don’t have access to fresh produce because of a lack of grocery stores.

To be clear, the terms “community garden” and “urban garden” are not interchangeable, although some gardens do fall into both categories. By definition, a community garden is a shared growing enterprise undertaken by a group of people, while an urban garden refers to a public or private growing effort in an inner city or urban setting.

The gardens are run by schools, churches, community groups and the city, and the harvest goes in a variety of directions. Individual gardeners can rent plots for a fee and take home what they grow. Other gardens have a charitable aspect to them, with produce going to food banks and disadvantaged families. And some supply locally minded restaurants and food trucks.

“Community gardens take in everything from small single plots to large communal spaces, but the overriding idea is that they’re places that bring individuals together,” says April Hammerand, project manager for the Food Coalition of Central Indiana. “There’s always been a sense of community among farmers and gardeners; they look out for each other and help each other.”

Plantings vary by garden, of course, and include everything from asparagus to zucchini. Perhaps reflecting the current boom in local craft beers and home brewing, Hammerand says, hops were one of the most popular community garden plantings last year.

Here’s just a sampling of gardens sprouting up in Indianapolis: •

•

•

Fall Creek Gardens/Urban Growers Resource Center: At 30th Street and Central Avenue in the Mapleton-Fall Creek neighborhood, this is one of the city’s newest community garden initiatives. By focusing on vegetables, herbs and flowers, Fall Creek Gardens educates the public about organic and sustainable growing methods, and also makes tools, supplies and information readily available to anyone who wants to learn more.

Mayor’s Garden Plots: The shared space for vegetable gardening at 2400 N. Tibbs St. is on a vast 20 acres, making this one of the largest community garden projects in the country. It’s supervised

by Indy Parks and Recreation.

Last year, Indiana University Health, Keep Indianapolis Beautiful and Indianapolis Public Schools teamed up to launch the Riley School Gardens project among a handful of local schools. The goal? To combat childhood obesity by getting school-aged children involved in planting, tending and harvesting produce at their very own schools.

www.edibleindy.com

In addition to providing access to food that’s fresh, healthy and nutritious, Hammerand says, shared gardens are a great community-building opportunity for the groups, organizations and individuals who manage them.

“It’s really a way to bring a group or neighborhood together to share ideas, form connections and get to know each other,” she says. “Children especially tend to enjoy being engaged in the gardening process, and the garden becomes a place where they can safely congregate.”

While not technically a community garden, Wishard Slow Food Garden exemplifies a successful local urban garden that serves multiple purposes. From a visual standpoint, the green space that is situated on White River State Park makes a picturesque addition to the downtown landscape.

The 6,000-square-foot space is divvied up into several plots, each intended to educate the public about a different aspect of eating local.

Some of the garden’s produce is sold at Pogue’s Run Grocer, the co-op store at 10th and Rural streets; some becomes part of a communitysupported agriculture program; and some winds up at Duos food truck, where owners Becky Hostetter and John Garnier use the produce for their local, seasonal lunch menu.

Wishard Slow Food Garden is managed and maintained by Growing Places Indy, which raises awareness of urban agriculture.

“We contribute to the foodshed in Indianapolis by selling the produce we grow, but we also want to provoke thought about people’s relationship to food, especially where it comes from and how it’s grown,” says Laura Henderson, executive director of Growing Places Indy.

Wednesday evening work-and-learn sessions during the summer at Wishard’s garden give the public a chance to dig in and get their hands dirty, and maybe discover something new at the same time.

Burkhart Community Garden in Rocky Ripple started in 2000, but previously it was the longtime garden of the late market grower Rick Burkhart. The garden’s asparagus bed is said to be roughly 20 years old.

GET INVOLVED Care to lend a hand to your local community or urban garden?

Visit www.growingplacesindy.org for information about volunteer opportunities with Growing Places Indy.

For a comprehensive map of urban and community gardens in the greater Indianapolis area, go to http://indyfoodfarmfamily.org/map/foodmap.html.

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Edible Events

which is shared with needy families and the homeless. Free. 6:30 pm at the Mapleton-Fall Creek Development Corporation office at 130 E. 30th St., Indianapolis. www.fallcreekgardens.org March 1 & 8: A two-day series covers the basics of keeping chickens in your own backyard. Topics will include nutrition, housing, behavior and regulations. An optional tour of various backyard coops is offered. Cost is $67.50. 6:30-8:30pm both days, IUPUI Community Learning Network at Park 100, 5980 W. 71st St., Suite 100, Indianapolis. www.cln.iupui.edu March 3: Join Laura and Tyler Henderson of Growing Places Indy and Maggie Goeglein of Fall Creek Gardens in a workshop that will address the materials and knowledge you’ll need to start vegetable seeds for future spring transplanting. Some materials and seed packets will be available for purchase for those interested. Free. 10 am at Indianapolis City Market, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis. www.fallcreekgardens.org March 3: Matthew Jose of Big City Farms presents “Spring Cover Crops,” a session on how to use the power of plants to improve soil fertility in gardens. Free. 1 pm, Fall Creek Gardens, 3005 Central Ave., Indianapolis. www.fallcreekgardens.org March 4: The Orchard School Alumni Heritage Association Pancake Breakfast. Come with your family and enjoy pancakes cooked over an open fire with maple syrup tapped from Orchard trees by Orchard students.11am-1pm, 615 West 64th St., Indianapolis. $5 per adult, children 10 & under free.

March 1: Sun King Brewery taps its seasonal Grapefruit Jungle, an extra-hoppy American IPA. Free. Food by Spice Box and live music at the Indy brewery, 135 N. College Ave. www.sunkingbrewing.com March 1: At this meet-up of the Digging Deeper Film and Book Series, view and discuss the film “City Farmer—Survival in the Urban Landscape.” This award-winning film depicts one of the most successful community garden movements ever—one that grows more than 1 million dollars in produce annually, 38

edible indy

March 7, 14, 21, 28: Little Red Door Cancer Agency offers healthy cooking classes in the demonstration kitchen at Indianapolis City Market, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis. Free.

11:30 am-1:30 pm, Wednesdays in March. www.indycm.com March 8: Sun King Brewery taps its seasonal Ring of Dingle, a dry Irish stout. Free. Food

by Circle City Spuds and live music at the Indy brewery, 135 N. College Ave. www.sunkingbrewing.com

March 22: Planting with Natives Workshop.

Learn the benefits of planting local with Bob Eddleman of the Hoosier Heartland Resource Conservation & Development Council. Come with questions about invasive species and take notes on how-to get rid of as many invasive plants and how-to restore cleaned up areas using natives. $10. 6-8 pm at Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, 1029 Fletcher Ave, Suite 100, Indianapolis. www.kibi.org March 31 & April 1: Buy artisan food and artwork at the Indiana Artisans Marketplace, featuring more than 125 vendors from the juried Indiana Artisans group. $10 admission; $3 parking. 10 am-6pm, March 31; 10 am-5 pm, April 1. Indiana State Fairgrounds, Expo Hall, 1202 E. 38th St., Indianapolis. www.indianaartisan.com April 17: Medicinal and Edible Wild Plant Walk. Join Keep Indianapolis Beautiful and Greg Monzel, community herbalist, for an indepth presentation on medicinal and edible weeds. On this walking workshop through Fountain Square identify wild plants and how you can use them for food and/or medicine. $10. 6-8 pm. Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, 1029 Fletcher Ave, Suite 100, Indianapolis. www.kibi.org April 26: Indianapolis City Market celebrates its 125th year with Market Share, complete with local foods, Meet the Brewers, Chef Showdown and Build Your Own Bloody Mary bar. $25 in advance; $35 at the door, $100 for VIP tickets, which includes a catacombs tour.

5:30-8:30 pm. 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis. www.indycm.com.

April 26: Sun King Brewery taps its seasonal Maibock, a golden lager with German hops.

Free. Food and live music at the Indy brewery, 135 N. College Ave. www.sunkingbrewing.com April 27-29: Orchard in Bloom at Holliday Park 6363 Spring Mill Road, Indianapolis.

Find inspiration in the garden displays of top local landscapers. Stroll through the garden markets in search of the perfect accessory for your home or garden. Bring the whole family Spring 2012

to experience the fun of face painting and craft making. Pre-sale tickets $10 and $12 at the door and children under 14 are free.

May 2: Original Farmers’ Market at Indianapolis City Market kicks off its 15th season.

Featuring more than 50 local producers selling cheese, produce, meats and more. Free.

Every Wednesday, May-October. 9:30 am1:30 pm. 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis. www.indycm.com.

June 2: Sample wines from more than two dozen Indiana wineries at the 13th annual Vintage Indiana Wine & Food Festival. Tickets available online starting April 1. $22 for adults in advance; $25 at the gate; $10 for designated drivers; $5 for ages 6-20; free for children 5 and under. 11 am-7 pm at Military Park in downtown Indianapolis. www.vintageindiana.com

June 6: Indianapolis Garden Club Garden Walk. Stroll along sprawling lawns, vegetable and flower gardens intergraded into lush surroundings. 9am-3pm; Tickets are $35 for the walk and $25 for the luncheon. For more info go to www.igcgardenwalk.com.

Advertiser directory Our heart felt thanks to all of our advertisers for their support in helping to grow and sustain Edible Indy and our community. Please make a point of supporting these businesses and organizations.

A. Arnold World Class Relocation 8161 Zionsville Road Indianapolis, IN 46268 870.5777 aarnoldmoving.com Artisano’s Oils and Spices 1101-B E. 86th Street Indianapolis, IN 46240 251.4100 artisanosoils.com Best Chocolate In Town 880 Massachusetts Avenue Indianapolis, IN 46204 636.2800 bestchocolateintown.com Bloomingfoods 3220 E. 3rd Street 316 W. 6th Street 419 E. Kirkwood Bloomington, IN bloomingfoods.coop Buy Fresher: Piazza Produce, Inc. 5941 West 82nd Street Indianapolis, IN 46268 872.0101 buyfresher.com Endangered Species Chocolate 216.2107 info@chocolatebar.com chocolatebar.com

Green B.E.A.N Delivery 377.0470 greenbeandelivery.com Green Clipping greenpieceindy.com Indiana Wine Grape Council www.vintageIndiana.com Michael Stewart at Merrill Lynch 262.4104 michael_l_stewart@ml.com Pogue’s Run Grocer 2828 E. 10th Street Indianapolis, IN 46201 426.4963 poguesrungrocer.org The Simply Well Book thesimplywellbook.com Stout’s Footwear 318 Massachusetts Avenue Indianapolis, IN 46204 13155 N. Old Meridian Street Carmel, IN 1430 N. Green Street Brownsburg, IN 632.7818 shoestores.com Traders Point Creamery 9101 Moore Road Zionsville, IN 46077 733.1700 tpforganics.com

Indianapolis City Market 222 E. Market Street Indianapolis, IN 46204 634.9266 indycm.com

www.edibleindy.com

39

Last Bite

MOCK CHICKEN SALAD

By Audrey Barron

Playing chicken

Makes 4 cups

By Audrey Barron Photo by Christina Richey

If spring has you craving light and fresh food to give your body a break from heavy winter dishes, this recipe will do the trick.

I created this mock chicken salad recipe for those who don’t eat chicken or who don’t have access to grass-fed organic chickens to make the real thing. This recipe supports the farmers who grow the greens and herbs and utilizes the magic of nuts to provide a clean and simple animal-free protein.

Serve it over fresh spring greens with your favorite dressing. Or, build a sandwich with your favorite bread, thin slices of tomato and avocado and the mock chicken salad.

Audrey Barron is an Indianapolis raw food chef and owner of Be Bliss Healing Therapies, providing holistic healing and education. www.beofbliss.com

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edible indy

¼ cup sunflower seeds, soaked 8 hours in water, then rinsed 1 cup cashews, soaked 8 hours in water, then rinsed 1 cup pecans 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 pinch of sea salt, to taste ½ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon dried ground sage Half of an apple, cut into small cubes 1 celery stick, cut into thin slices 1 green onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon fresh sage, minced

1.

2.

Process sunflower seeds, cashews, pecans, lemon juice, sea salt, pepper and ground sage in a food processor. Stop to scrape down the sides of the food processor with a spatula to make sure ingredients process evenly. The mixture should be finely ground with small chunks.

Put the nut mixture into a bowl and add the apple, celery, onion and fresh sage. Mix ingredients together by hand.

Spring 2012

Farmers MARKETS 38th and Meridian Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 4–6:30pm, May through October 3808 N. Meridian St., Indianapolis Broad Ripple Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8-noon, May though Nov. 19 Located behind Broad Ripple High School broadripplefarmersmarket.com Carmel Famers’ Market on Center Green Saturdays, 8-11:30am, through March 17th Saturdays, 8-11:30am, May 19 through Oct. 6 5 Center Green, Carmel carmelfarmersmarket.com Community Farmers’ Market of Owen County Saturdays, May 5-Oct. 20 Courthouse Square, Spencer farmersmarketowencounty.com Cumberland Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, May 1-Oct. 31 11501 E. Washington St., Cumberland town.cumberland.in.us Danville Chamber of Commerce Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, May Danville Courthouse Square danville-chamber.org Green Market at Traders Point Creamery Saturdays, 9am-noon, November through April Fridays, 4pm-8pm, May through Oct. 9101 Moore Road, Zionsville tpforganics.com Indy Winter Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9am-noon, November 12th through April (Closed Dec. 24th & 31st) The City Market, 222 E. Market St., Indianapolis indywinterfarmersmarket.org Bloomingfoods East Market Wednesday and Saturday mornings, all year round for any growers to show up bloomingfoods.coop

Bloomington Community Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8-1pm, April 7- November Located in the parking lot of the Showers building on Morton St. bloomington.in.gov/farmersmarket Bloomington Winter Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 9am-noon, December 3rd through March 31st Harmony School, 2nd & Woodlawn (909 E. 2nd St.), Bloomington localgrowers.org/wintermarket Farmers’ Market at City Market Wednesdays, 10am–1pm, through March 17th Wednesdays, 9:30am-1:30pm, May through Oct. indycm.com The Fishers Farmers Market Location: In front of Fishers Train Station, 11601 Municipal Drive, Fishers, IN 46038 Dates: Saturdays, May 26, 2012 – September 29, 2012 Hours: 8 a.m. – 12:00 p.m.

Greenwood Farmers’ Market Saturdays, 8am–noon, April 28-Oct.31 310 S. Meridian St., Greenwood For info, search Greenwood Farmers’ Market on Facebook Harvest Market at the Fairgrounds Saturdays, 8am–noon, May-October 620 N. Apple St., Greenfield hancockharvestcouncil.com Geist Farmers’ Market Thursdays, 2:30pm-6:30pm, May-Sept.

8115 Oaklandon Rd., Indianapolis geistfarmersmarket.com Stadium Village Farmers’ Market Tuesdays, 4–7pm, beginning May 17 801 S. Meridian St., Indianapolis stadiumvillagefarmersmarket.com Binford Farmers’ Market Saturday, 9am-noon, beginning April 7 62nd and Binford Blvd., Indianapolis binfordfarmersmarket.com