Cooks 2015

No. 42 Sept/Oct | Cooks 2015

Cel eb ra ti n g Cen tra l Texa s fo o d cu lt u re, sea so n by sea so n

The

COOKS Issue

FINANCING L AND OWNER SHIP

NMLS493828

Let us finance your country getaway FINANCING

Rural Land Homes Farms & Ranches Livestock & Equipment Operating Capital Improvements Agribusiness SERVICES

Real Estate Appraisal Crop Insurance Leasing

877.944.5500 | CapitalFarmCredit.com

proud member of the Farm Credit System

®

Now

MORE

ORGANICS. ALWAYS AFFORDABLE. heb.com/organics

©2015 HEB, 15-5786

Special VIP Extra for First 100 Bookings.

Let’s Take It Outside!

OCTOBER 16-18, 2015

A Weekend Getaway for the Experiential Epicurean Glamping-style accommodations, fully fitted with beds • Meals and tastings prepared by the city’s best chefs • Free-flowing wine, handcrafted brews, and top-shelf liquors • Experiences ranging from foraging hikes and butchery classes to learning how to ferment foods or prepare small-batch preserves • Relaxing massages and spa treatments from Travaasa® Experiential Resorts • Morning riverside yoga, volleyball, foodie face-offs and more!

Zack Northcutt Swift’s Attic

Janina O’Leary laV Restaurant & Wine Bar

Ben Baker Travaasa® Austin

Jack Gilmore Jack Allen’s Kitchen

Shane Stark Monger’s Market + Kitchen

David Bull Congress and Second Bar + Kitchen

Josh Jones Salt & Time

John Micklethwait Micklethwait Craft Meats

Ji Peng Chen Wu Chow

100% of Proceeds Donated to Sustainable Food Center

Visit www.AustinAlfresco.com to Book Today!

CONTENTS cooks issue 8

NOTABLE mentions

30 People

Teresa Wilson.

36

COOKS toolbox

Hers and hers must-have kitchen tools.

22

40 Marketplace

Mongers Market + Kitchen.

60 at HOME

Weige Knives.

40

65

social COOKING

Austin Men’s Cooking Club.

COOKS at home

69

what we’re DRINKING

14 Danny Palumbo

With Cooks.

18 Barbara Chisholm

70

edible BOOKS

Unprocessed—A Q&A with Megan Kimble.

73

edible BEAUTY

Natural skin care.

86

hip girl’s guide to HOMEMAKING

Fermented relishes.

91

The Directory

22

Chief Art Acevedo

26

Kathie Sever

76

Jim Spencer

78

Ben Runkle and Natalie Davis

82

The Quesadas

cooking BASICS 45 Ragù alla Bolognese 50 Flour Tortillas 54 Gumbo

COVER: Oysters at Mongers Market + Kitchen by Alison Narro (page 40).

58 Bulgogi Ssam

18

Proceeds support the historic Paramount Theatre and Mobile Loaves & Fishes

PUBLISHER Marla Camp

Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week and the Paramount Theatre present

THE FABULOUS BEEKMAN BOYS Sunday, November 29 • 7 p.m.

AT THE PARAMOUNT THEATRE

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Jenna Northcutt

EDITOR Kim Lane

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Dawn Weston

COPY EDITOR

Join us for an entertaining evening with Dr. Brent Ridge and Josh Kilmer-Purcell —two city guys who bought a farm in upstate New York where they’ve got 80 goats, two pigs, a dozen chickens, a narcissistic llama—and “a whole lotta drama.” Though farming “ain’t easy,” these two make it fabulous and they’re ready to share their stories with us.

ABOUT JOSH AND BRENT: Less than five years after buying The Beekman Farm, Brent and Josh have won the Amazing Race 21, have a hit TV show, bestselling books, product lines in leading retailers (Beekman 1802), a massive social following and a James Beard-nominated lifestyle website. Josh Kilmer-Purcell is a New York Times bestselling author of three books, and has been an award-winning creative director at several major advertising agencies. His first memoir, “I Am Not Myself These Days,” has been optioned for series development by Bravo television network. Dr. Brent Ridge was a geriatrician at Mount Sinai Hospital, and later became the vice president of health and wellness at Martha Stewart Omnimedia, making regular appearances on The Martha Stewart Show.

ALSO FEATURING AN AFTER-SHOW FARMERS ARTISAN MARKET! VIP*: $100; General Admission: $30; Student: $20 For tickets, visit austintheatre.org or call 512-474-1221 *VIP Reception VIP tickets include a preshow reception with Brent and Josh from 6–7 p.m., featuring local food tastings from Barlata, Café Josie, Hoover’s Cooking and Lenoir, along with wines from Barcelona Cellers, local craft beer and Tito’s Handmade Vodka cocktails.

About Edible Austin Eat Drink Local Week: Nov. 28–Dec. 5 2015 Eat Drink Local Week (EDLW) invites you to support locally sourcing restaurants and cook meals throughout the week entirely with local ingredients. Edible Austin will be at farmers markets to encourage home cooking with farm-fresh ingredients and we'd love for you to join us there and at our special events throughout the week. EDLW benefits Mobile Loaves & Fishes. For more information, visit edibleaustin.com/eatdrinklocal

Anne Marie Hampshire

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Melinda Barsales, Dena Garcia, Angela Chapin Holt, Michelle Moore

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Susanna Cassady

ADVERTISING SALES Curah Beard, Valerie Kelly

DISTRIBUTION MANAGER Leary Kelly

ADVISORY GROUP Terry Thompson-Anderson, Paula Angerstein, Dorsey Barger, Jim Hightower, Toni Tipton-Martin, Mary Sanger, Carol Ann Sayle

CONTACT US Edible Austin 1411 A Newning Ave., Austin, TX 78704 512-441-3971 info@edibleaustin.com edibleaustin.com Edible Austin is published bimonthly by Edible Austin L.L.C. All rights reserved. Subscription rate is $30 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2015. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us.

GET YOUR PADDLES UP.

Join our live auction battle for a chance to...

TAKE HOME A CHEF!

October 8, 2015

CONTIGO/GARDNER

RAMEN TATSU-YA

LENOIR

FRANKLIN BBQ

JUSTINE’S

UCHI/UCHIKO

WU CHOW

EDEN EAST

TRAVAASA

Charity event benefiting Sustainable Food Center & Urban Roots

Thanks to our Sponsors

TICKETS AND MORE INFO: edibleaustin.com/chefauction

gRUENE HALL & KNBT 92.1 FM PRESENT

8-11 OCin hiTOstoriBEcRgruene

BENEFITING THE UNITED WAY OF COMAL COUNTY

GRUENEMUSICANDWINEFEST.ORG • Speakers • Vendors • Demos • Kids Crafts • Music • Food •

notable MENTIONS SIP AND SIZZLE IN DOWNTOWN BRYAN Historic downtown Bryan plays host to the 9th annual Texas Reds Steak & Grape Festival, presented by the Downtown Bryan Association on September 26–27. The festival features over 20 Texas wineries, a myriad of craft beer breweries, more than 30 bands performing on five different stages, the annual steak cook-off, the popular Kids Zone and a variety of food vendors. Visit texasredsfestival.com for details.

FARM & FOOD LEADERSHIP CONFERENCE Get the latest news about sustainable farming and local foods while connecting with other people who are passionate about these issues at the 9th annual Farm & Food Leadership Conference on September 25–26 in Bryan/College Station. This unique conference

FREE JOHN and FLORENCE NEwmaN foundation the

RAINWATER REVIVAL

Sat, Nov 7, 10am–4pm Dripping Springs, TX

RainwaterRevival.com

FREE A DMI SSI O N

food. Whether you are a farmer, consumer, chef, local foods business owner or nonprofit advocate, you will find useful information and tools to help support the growth of the local and sustainable food movement. Plus, you will enjoy a delicious local lunch each day prepared by Chef Jesse Griffiths of Dai Due. Presented by Farm

A HILL COUNTRY ALLIANCE EVENT

Cow Creek GCD, KTD, HEB, Lakota Water, Mitchell Foundation, HCA (most prominent)

focuses on the policies and regulations affecting our farms and our

Painted

& Ranch Freedom Alliance and Council for Healthy Food Systems.

Go to farmandranchfreedom.org for more information and tickets.

Must see!

FOUR DAYS, FOUR DISTINCT EVENTS AT THE GRUENE MUSIC & WINE FESTIVAL Step back in time and visit the authentically preserved Gruene Historic District located along the banks of the spring-fed Guadalupe River. The Gruene Music & Wine Festival, October 8–11,

Information for Sponsors and Exhibitors at:

RainwaterRevival.com

continues a 29-year-old Central Texas tradition of celebration.

During the four-day festival, enjoy the best of Texas music and feast on German and New World food, wines and specialty beer.

Visit gruenemusicandwinefest.org for details.

DIVING FOR PEARLS Pearl Dive, Rude Mechs’ annual foodie fundraiser, stays close to home this year! The Sunday, October 18 event benefiting Austin’s adventurous theater collective will be hosted at Mongers Market + Kitchen at 2401 E. Cesar Chavez Street. In traditional Pearl Dive fashion, the event will be a drink-filled, Gulf Coast-style seafood feast of grilled red snapper, grouper, cobia, shrimp and oysters, plus a raw bar with boiled shrimp and whatever else the fishermen bring in that week. Some of Austin’s finest chefs will be cooking at the event with Mongers’ own Chef Shane Stark at the helm and co-proprietor Roberto San Miguel at the door. Tickets go on sale September 1. All proceeds from Pearl Dive support Rude Mechs programming and The Off Center. Visit rudemechs.com for more information.

8

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

LOCATIONS ACROSS THE AUSTIN AREA! (512) 366- 8260 • SPECSONLINE.COM

Cheers to Savings!

®

W I N ES · S P I R I TS · F I N E R FO O DS

RAISE YOUR GLASS FOR ART EDUCATION The 26th annual La Dolce Vita Food and Wine Festival, presented by The Contemporary Austin, is returning to Laguna Gloria on Thursday, October 15, from 7 to 10 p.m., featuring special tastings from top restaurants and wineries. Proceeds benefit The Contemporary’s innovative education programs, which serve thousands of children and adults each year. Visit thecontemporaryaustin.org for more information and tickets.

Sept. 26 & 27

RAISING GREEN FOR GREEN CORN PROJECT Green Corn Project has been transforming unused land into thriving vegetable gardens for 17 years. Come celebrate and help raise funds for the volunteer-run, grassroots organization at their annual Fall Festival, Sunday, October 25, at Boggy Creek Farm. Eat your way through an amazing lineup of local restaurant and beverage vendors while listening to live music and perusing a silent auction. Go to greencornproject.org to purchase tickets.

& D I N N E R

LIVE MUSIC

BOOKPEOPLE AND EDIBLE AUSTIN PRESENT TONI TIPTON-MARTIN Award-winning food and nutrition journalist Toni Tipton-Martin signs and discusses her newly released book, “The Jemima Code: Two Centuries of African American Cook-

www.TexasRedsFestival.com

books,” at BookPeople on Thursday, September 24 at 7 p.m. Her collection of over 300 African American cookbooks has been exhibited at the James Beard House, and she has twice been invited to the White House

DEER LAKE LODGE RE S ORT & SPA RESET │RECHARGE │RELAX

to participate in first lady Michelle Obama’s programs to raise a healthier generation of kids. Tipton-Martin is a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Foodways Texas.

Visit edibleaustin.com for details.

IN CELEBRATION OF FERMENTATION From bread and cheese to chocolate and coffee, many of your favorite foods are most likely fermented. Fermentation makes food more nutritious, as well as delicious. Benefiting the Texas Farmers Market Farmer Emergency Fund, the Austin Fermentation Festival will be held on October 25, from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Barr Mansion and will include workshops, local fermentation artisans and vendors, a culture swap, kraut mob, artisan lunch, craft beverages and more. Keynote speaker is author and blogger Jennifer McGruther (”Nourished Kitchen”). Visit texasfarmersmarket.org for tickets and more information.

FREDERICKSBURG FOOD & WINE FEST Celebrate Texas food and wine culture at the 25th anniversary of the Fredericksburg Food & Wine Fest on Saturday, October Mention this ad for

$100 Spa Credit

with the purchase of any overnight package Expires 10/31/15. Restrictions may apply.

10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd., Montgomery, Texas

936-647-1383 | DeerLakeLodge.com 10

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

24. Held in historic downtown Fredericksburg on Marktplatz, the event will include Texas food, wine, beer, music, specialty booths, food court and fun for all. This year will also feature Friday’s Celebration of Texas Food & Wine, Saturday’s Patron Party on Marktplatz and 25 at 5, where 25 guests will have the opportunity to meet Chefs Josh Raymer and Frances Money and taste a special menu. Visit fbgfoodandwinefest.com for tickets and schedule.

Here’s to your health.

The Texas pecan has more health benefits than we can name here. That’s the reason we go to extremes to bring them to you just as pure and delicious as Mother

Health & Flavor In a Nutshell

Nature intended. The Royalty pecan is never exposed to herbicides, is sustainably grown and brought to you at the peak of freshness from our family-owned farm. Come taste the freshness here at the farm or at RoyaltyPecans.com Mention this ad for a

Free Texas Wine Tasting Offer good thru December 31, 2015

RoyaltyPecans.com Bryan 800.694.8362 Hwy 21 on the Brazos River

THE LEANING PEAR Hill Country-inspired Cuisine

Unique. Well Crafted. Delicous.

on the LEGE 84TH LEGISLATURE LETHARGIC The Texas Legislature adjourned for its year-and-a-half hibernation on June 1, confounding many observers who expected a productive ses-

111 river road Wimberley, texas 512-847-pear

sion after Republicans secured historic majorities in both the House of

leaningpear.Com

of the Texas Tribune’s Ross Ramsey, “small visions and small results.”

Representatives and the Senate. Unlike the fireworks of 2013, the 84th Legislature was a relatively staid affair characterized by, in the words While Democrats breathed sighs of relief that some controversial topics were left on the back burner, many bills that would have strengthened Texas’ food system also fell victim to the Legislature’s inertia.

Despite the support of both the Austin-based Sustainable Food Center and the Capital Area Food Bank, House Bill (H.B.) 1616, which would have provided incentives for SNAP (formerly known as food stamps) recipients to shop at farmers markets, was left languishing in the House Agriculture and Livestock Committee. Similarly, bills that would have encouraged farm-to-cafeteria initiatives and eased some of the regulations faced by small-scale and organic farmers also failed to emerge from committee. Heavy-hitters in the public health world also came up short. Of the 26 bills that the Michael and Susan Dell Center for Healthy Living supported, only one became law—schools are now allowed the option to develop and implement locally-funded programs to provide free or reduced-price school breakfast instead of utilizing the national school breakfast program.

The most frustrating moment of the session, however, occurred on May 15, when a bill by Rep. Eddie Rodriguez (D-Austin) that would have provided incentives for grocery stores to open in underserved “food deserts” appeared to have passed the House by a vote of 69-67, only to fail 64-67 when the vote was re-counted.

Despite setbacks for proponents of sensible food policies, the 84th Legislature was not without its bright spots. Two tea party-backed freshmen, Sens. Lois Kolkhorst (R-Brenham) and Brandon Creighton (R-Conroe), showed an interest in supporting both family farms and conservation stewardship programs. Creighton, a no-nonsense rancher, revealed a soft spot for small-scale beekeeping and championed a successful bill that allows beekeepers to market value-added products directly to consumers without having to jump through the regulatory hoops to which larger producers are subject.

COOKBOOKS FOR EVERY KITCHEN

Similarly, Sen. Eddie Lucio (D-Brownsville) and Rep. John Cyrier (R-Lockhart) succeeded in passing Senate Bill (S.B.) 1978, which bolstered “Hunters for the Hungry,” a program that donates venison to food banks that would otherwise be unable to offer lean protein options to their patrons.

While a genuine coalition in support of sensible food policies failed to coalesce during the 84th Legislature, the champions of “Hunters for the Hungry”—a Democrat representing a district with

• Bookstore • Giftshop • Coffeehouse 9 am - 11 pm everyday shop online at: www.bookpeople.com

12

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

603 N. Lamar 472-5050

high levels of obesity and a Republican representing a district replete with small farms and hunting enthusiasts—offered a glimpse into the kind of partnerships that need to occur if the 85th Legislature, which convenes on January 10, 2017, is to be more successful than its predecessor. — Alex Canepa

There are 125 reasons why chefs choose Niman Ranch Raised With Care® is more than a tag line—it is engrained in everything we do.

From the way our family farmers treat the land and the animals to how we support our farmers, ranchers and their local communities—we have 125 ways that we back this up.

We care and so do the chefs, grocers and consumers that support Niman Ranch. · All Vegetarian Feeds · Raised Outdoors or in Deeply Bedded Pens (No Confinement) · No Antibiotics or Added Hormones**–Ever · No Preservatives · No Nitrites · No Gluten

We appreciate the opportunity that Niman Ranch affords us to make a living as a family farm.

Paul Brown, Iowa Paul Brown

Young farmers, we just ask for a chance. We don’t ask for a ton of money or whatever. We just want to have a chance. A chance to get started and work hard.

Scott Sibbel, Iowa

Scott Sibbel and children

I probably wouldn’t have come back to farm, to raise pigs, if we were in a more conventional swine operation. We prefer to see our sows outside, our pigs outside, exhibiting their natural behaviors. There’s just no other way to do it in our eyes.

Adair Crowe, Missouri Adair Crowe

The finest all- natural* meats raised by family farmers and ranchers committed to sustainable and humane practices

Learn more at nimanranch.com *Minimally processed. No artificial ingredients. **Federal regulations prohibit the use of hormones in pork.

14

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

DANNY PALUMBO

BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

“I

had to drunk-dial my mom for the ratio of shell to

Jesus mug with coffee. “It’s also ripe for comedy.”

filling on these things,” says Austin comic Danny

On a lark last year, he and his chef brother, Anthony

Palumbo as he sips wine from a Jesus coffee mug.

(“He turned me on to parsley stems,” Palumbo confides), cre-

The 30-year-old is talking about his family’s manicotti recipe

ated a parody website for Lil’ Buco, a pretentious pretend

while he thunks thick clumps of the cheese and meat mix-

restaurant for kids with fare such as “SpaghettiO’s gazpacho,

ture into shells he made from scratch. He rolls them with the

rustic cracker.” They followed with Abbrev’s—another ficti-

cool and steady hand of someone comfortable in the kitch-

tious gastrophenom specializing in portions so small that it

en—someone comfortable enough to ignore the grease marks

serves micro-entrees of tuna on quarter teaspoons and tacos

on the wall from a recent Cuisinart explosion. Funny thing

on toothpick skewers. They’re planning another eatery that

about this recipe: His Italian grandmother always made it for

lampoons fusion cuisine. (“We’re white chefs co-opting your

Thanksgiving, but she actually got it from Palumbo’s other

culture’s food.”) So far, the sites have hit more than a million

grandmother, who was mostly Polish. “My mom told me that

views, and the brothers have been approached to host a po-

the other day,” he says, “and I’m like, ‘Are you kidding me? It

tential food travel show.

didn’t even come from an Italian?’”

But for all that, Palumbo doesn’t want to be known as “the

Palumbo has seen the humor in food since he jumped

food guy.” At the same time, he doesn’t mind his growing rep-

from dishwasher to cook at a “sloppy red-sauce joint” when

utation as the comic who makes early dinner for other Austin

he was 15. “It was the kind of place where the placemat is a

comics every Sunday night. They show up at 5 p.m. and leave

map of Italy and hey, there’s Frank Sinatra’s headshot,” he

by 8 p.m. to hit the stage at places like Cap City Comedy Club.

says. Some of his earliest material doing stand-up in his na-

Palumbo sees his get-togethers as a way to do his part for the

tive Pittsburgh revolved around food. “People ask me how

stand-up community, which has given him much support and

to make risotto. I say be yourself.” By the time he made an

inspiration. Granted, he’d never get sappy enough to admit

impulse move to Austin for its comedy scene four years ago,

that in front of them when they show up for the manicotti.

some of his best routines delved into the mysteries of restau-

Comedian Eric Krug walks in and Palumbo immediately lays

rant chains: “Every time I go into a Subway I ask myself, ‘Why

into him for bringing his own bag of ice. “Eric, you’re the god-

is this sandwich wet?’”

damn worst.” “You always run out,” Krug responds, taking it

The line between food and comedy in Palumbo’s life is

in stride. “Danny’s the hot kid in town right now,” he adds,

as thin as the window between a setup and a punch line. He

“but he’ll get his.” Then he retires to a whiteboard hung in the

spends his days doing a little of this and a little of that at

dining room where he draws a butt blowing a fart cloud.

Quality Seafood and his nights doing stand-up. He’s known

The comics pile the food onto mismatched plates and grab

to rush home after one of his regular hosting gigs at “Live at

seats. Naturally, everybody starts doing scenes from “Good-

ColdTowne” and Spider House Ballroom’s “Jazz Cigarette”

fellas” and other mob movies. Then, they break into the mag-

to check on a beef stock he’s left on the stove all day. In May,

nificent apple pie brought by Aaron Brooks, Palumbo’s “Jazz

he won the grueling stand-up marathon that is the “Funniest

Cigarette” co-host. Normally, the group would leave by 8

Person in Austin” contest and spent the prize money on tor-

p.m. to perform at any club willing to have them on a Sunday

tellini. And he sounds just as excited about making an even-

night, but because the May rainstorms have shut down most

tual comedy album as he does about creating his own pork-

places, they’re stuck here together. Palumbo’s fine with that.

fat tomato roux. “Food is my life experience, and I have a

“All my friends are comedians now,” he says. “I don’t know

natural passion for it,” he says as he replaces the wine in the

anybody else.”

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

15

DANNY PALUMBO’S “FAKE ITALIAN, POLISH GRANDMOTHER’S” MANICOTTI Serves 8–10

MEDITERRANEAN INSPIRED RESTAURANT

NOW OPEN

—

LOCALLY OWNED

Experience the Flavors and Aromas of the Mediterra nean

Lunch and Dinner Daily — Weekend Brunch

612 W EST 6TH STREET 512-474-2194

SL ATE AUS TIN .COM

For the sauce: 1 /³ c. olive oil 1½ c. finely chopped onion 1 garlic clove, crushed 1 can (2 lb. 3 oz.) tomatoes, undrained 6 oz. can tomato paste 2 t. chopped parsley 1 t. salt 1 t. sugar 1 t. dried oregano 1 t. dried basil ¼ t. pepper ½ c. water Heat the oil and sauté the onion and garlic for 5 minutes. Mix in the rest of the ingredients, mashing the tomatoes with a fork. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Simmer the mixture, covered, and stir occasionally for 1 hour.

For the filling: 1 TB olive oil 1 medium-size yellow onion, finely chopped ½ lb. each ground veal, beef and pork A big handful or two of spinach, chopped 1 t. salt ¼ t. pepper 2 lb. ricotta cheese 8 oz. mozzarella cheese 1 /³ c. grated Parmesan cheese 2 eggs 1 t. chopped parsley Caramelize the onion in a bit of olive oil, then add the meat and sauté until browned. Add the spinach, salt and pepper and cook until the spinach wilts. Remove from the heat and chill for a few hours. In a large bowl, blend the other ingredients with a wooden spoon. Add in the cooled meat mixture.

For the shells: 6 eggs 1½ c. flour ¼ t. salt 1½ c. water Combine the eggs, flour and salt. Add the water gradually and “whisk the hell out of it.” Let stand at least half an hour. Into a hot pan coated with cooking spray, pour enough batter to make an 8-inch-wide shell. Cook and flip “like you’re making flour and egg omelets.” Repeat to make 8 shells total.

To assemble: ¼ c. Parmesan cheese Heat the oven to 350°. Spread ¼ cup of the filling down the center of each shell and roll. Spoon 1½ cups of tomato sauce each into two 12-by8-inch baking dishes. Place the rolled shells, seam-side down, in a single layer into each baking dish. Top with more sauce and sprinkle with the cheese. Bake uncovered for ½ hour or until bubbly.

16

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

hing is Bigger in t y r Te Ev e t as o N

Two of Austin's most versatile downtown event spaces for parties up to 1000 people

Wedding • Corporate • Client Gifts • We Ship Nationally Order online for in-store pick up with code EDIBLE for 10% off your first 12 pack of Tiny Pies.

5035 Burnet Rd 512.916.0184

www.tinypies.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

17

COOKS at home

BARBARA CHISHOLM

BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

A

t 3 p.m. on the afternoon of a 7 p.m. dinner party, ac-

a shot of Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka over ice—topping it

tress Barbara Chisholm is as relaxed and informal as

off with Topo Chico and a squeeze of lime. Re-energized,

her dining table appears not to be. Not at first. Not

she dices onions, melts butter and trusses the chicken—all

with all that china and crystal inherited from her mother

while leading a wide-ranging discussion about the creative

Gloria, whose 1930s portrait depicting her in full southern

process. “Doing your art strictly for money is horrible,” she

ingénue attire seems to supervise the table. “My mom was a

pronounces. “It eats away at you. I always say: Me and Julia

great entertainer,” Chisholm says. “She believed in setting the

Roberts both get to pick what we want to do next—for exactly

table first, before you start cooking. As a kid, I used to love

opposite reasons.”

putting out all her fancy stuff. She had individual ashtrays at

Chisholm isn’t a movie star, in other words, but her

each setting, with ‘C’ for Chisholm engraved on them. Fancy!”

20-plus-year career in Austin, most notably at the Zach The-

Fancy stuff didn’t guarantee a fancy life. The Chisholms—

ater, has been one of almost nonstop verve and substance.

mother, father and six children—were a military family, con-

Whether portraying Molly Ivins in the one-woman “Red Hot

stantly on the move, making new friends, inviting people for

Patriot” or spending 12 years filming a very visible support-

dinner. “No matter where we were stationed—Goose Bay

ing role in Richard Linklater’s “Boyhood,” she manages to be

freakin’ Labrador!—my mother would make enchiladas,”

an Austin actress without being pigeonholed as local talent.

Chisholm says. “She’d have tortillas shipped in from Texas! The

At the moment, she’s between jobs. “This is rich to me, this

last eleven years of her life she lived with us, and every once in

fallow time,” she says. “I like having a personal life. I like

a while, she’d need her Mexican food fix and we’d go to Polvos.”

balance. You need balance, right? I mean, we’re all cobbling

Gloria Chisholm died three years ago, but her cook-

together a living, and….” Her phone interrupts. “Everyone

ing-for-company philosophy—fancy yes, fussy never—lives

shut up! It’s my agent! Wow!” She ducks around the corner

on. This afternoon, Barbara sets the table for four—herself,

for a short, animated whisper. (Yes, she can do an animated

her husband (Austin Chronicle Arts Editor Robert Faires),

whisper.) “Arrrgh, I can’t talk about it,” she says, when the

plus husband and wife playwrights Steven Dietz and Allison

call concludes. “Not yet. But it’s exciting. Very.”

Gregory. That accomplished, she gets to work on the menu:

And now back to the chicken, an exciting possibility in

an appetizer of gougères, followed by roasted root vegetables,

its own right. “Do I have a name for it? Sure,” she says. “How

green salad and roast chicken, with profiteroles for dessert.

about ‘AWESOME?’ I would totally order this for my last din-

“And, of course, I’ll offer cocktails,” Chisholm adds. “When

18

ner on Death Row.”

can we have a cocktail, by the way? I mean, look at these cock-

Epilogue A: With the chicken in the oven and the kitch-

tail glasses—aren’t they too freakin’ much?” A gift from her

en straightened up, Chisholm took her dog for a leisurely

husband, the vintage midcentury highball glasses are freakin’

walk, because after all, the table was set, the vegetables were

perfect, as is the Don-Draper-era bar cart where they rest until

prepped, the sink drink was poured and she still had plenty

called up for active duty. “I also got the sexiest refreezable ice

of time. When her dinner guests arrived, she realized she’d

cubes,” she remembers. “2014 was kind of a Cocktail Christmas.

forgotten to cook the roasted vegetable side dish. In the end,

Hmmm…you know what else my mother advised? When you’re

dinner was served an hour later than planned, but with the

getting ready for a party, always have a ‘sink drink’ on hand.”

bar cart handy and the conversation sparkly, who cared?

Gloria Chisholm defined a sink drink as an adult beverage

Epilogue B: Chisholm got the role her agent called

consumed discreetly by a home chef, strictly to settle her

about—playing the late columnist Erma Bombeck in a

nerves. “You don’t use a fancy glass. A coffee cup is good.

one-woman show at Arena Stage in Washington, D.C. The

And,” Chisholm adds, “it doesn’t count against your total for

run begins October 2015. And she’s allowed to talk about it.

the night.” Not about to argue with tradition, Chisholm pours

And she’s excited. Very.

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

“…you know what else my mother advised?

When you’re getting ready for a party, always have a ‘sink drink’ on hand.”

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

19

BARBARA CHISHOLM’S AWESOME ROAST CHICKEN WITH “ONE-WOMANSHOW” SAUCE Serves 4

1 organic chicken, about 5 lbs. ½ lemon Salt and pepper 1 T. whole black peppercorns 1 celery stalk with leaves, chopped 1 bay leaf 1 garlic clove, minced

1–2 shallots, minced Parsley, a few sprigs ½ c. butter, melted 2–3 carrots 1 onion 2 celery stalks ¾ c. white wine, divided ½ c. chicken broth

Heat the oven to 450°. Remove the liver, gizzard and other loose parts from the chicken. Rinse chicken in cold water, pat dry and rub inside and out with the half lemon. Squeeze the lemon juice over the chicken and throw the rind in the cavity. Generously salt and pepper, inside and out. Place the black peppercorns, celery stalk with leaves, bay leaf, garlic, shallots and parsley inside the cavity. Tie the chicken’s legs together “so it doesn’t look slutty.” Tuck the wings under. “Slather that bad boy” with about half the melted butter. Place into a roasting pan—it should fit fairly snugly—breast-side down. Roast 15 minutes. Flip the chicken onto its back. Roast another 15 minutes. While the chicken roasts, cut the carrots, onion and celery stalks into a medium dice. Remove the chicken from the oven, then remove from the roasting pan, temporarily. Put the diced carrots, onions and celery into the roasting pan. Mix together. Place the chicken on top of the diced vegetables, breast-side up. Pour the remaining melted butter over the chicken. Pour ½ cup of the white wine and all of the chicken broth into the pan. Return the pan to the oven and roast for an hour—basting every 15 minutes. Remove the chicken to a cutting board and place the roasting pan, with its cooked vegetables and juices, over high heat. Skim off some of the fat. Deglaze—adding the remaining wine and scraping up the browned bits. Make the sauce by “pureeing the whole beautiful slop in a blender.” Serve with the roasted chicken, but there will be leftovers, which you can slather on bread.

BLOODY MARY No matter how you mix it, my handmade vodka beats those giant “imports” every day.

VEGGIES

created by:

WENDY JO PETERSON

justwendyjo.com

★ 3 plum tomatoes,

chopped

★ 2 celery stalks,

chopped

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

PTS

20 TitosEdibleAd0715.indd

COOKS 2015

1

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

★ 10 green olives ★ 2 cloves garlic,

minced ★ 1 tsp. tamari sauce ★ 1 tsp. Lea & Perrins Worchestershire Sauce ★ ¼ cup Tito’s Handmade Vodka

In a glass bowl or serving dish, mix together vegetables with garlic, tamari, Worchestershire sauce and Tito’s Handmade Vodka. Allow vegetables to marinate in the refrigerator for at least one hour. It’s that simple!

7/14/15 9:31 PM

THE CONTEMPORARY AUSTIN LAGUNA GLORIA 3809 WEST 35TH STREET

All proceeds benefit the Education programs at THURSDAY, OCTOBER 15TH, 2015 7P – 10P

PURCHASE TICKETS thecontemporaryaustin.org SUPPORT PROVIDED BY

Steve Redman

MEDIA

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

21

22

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

CHIEF ART ACEVEDO

BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

A

ustin Police Chief Art Ace-

and everything LBJ did for refugees.”

vedo arrives home with his

Acevedo’s father had died, but his sen-

8-year-old son Jake and a load

timents lived on in his youngest son. He

of groceries, slaps the bags on the

took a deep breath, introduced himself

counter, cranks up the grill, downs a

to LBJ’s daughter and the two became

tall glass of water and begins chopping

friends. “But still,” he now says, “did the

onions. In an hour, he’ll head north to

stars align, or what?”

a vigil for a Hutto police sergeant, so

The elder Acevedos never took cit-

there’s no time to change into civilian

izenship for granted. They expected

clothes. His cell phone buzzes. It’s an-

their sons to give something back—not

other tightly scheduled day-turning-

just in work, but in life. All that civ-

into-night, but Acevedo seems entirely

ic-mindedness was balanced, however,

relaxed. Dinner? He’s got this.

by plenty of hedonism and hospital-

“I do most of the cooking around

ity. “My parents had people over all

here,” he says. “I married a very smart

the time,” Acevedo remembers. “I still

woman [Travis County Chief Infor-

go back to California at Christmas to

mation Officer Tanya Acevedo], but

roast a pig in the Caja China. We pretty

cooking is not one of her fortés and

much always ate dinner together, and

we both work a lot of hours. So it’s usually simple stuff I

we rarely ate out. I still remember my first restaurant meal in

love to eat—steak, pot roast, a Cuban salad.” He adds a liberal

this country. Sirloin steak with fried shrimp, french fries and a

amount of salt to the plate of sliced vine-ripened tomatoes,

strawberry shake with whipped cream. At Denny’s! I thought

onions and avocado—with olive oil, no vinegar!—and the

this must be how rich people eat.”

dry-aged rib-eye steaks resting on the counter. “It’s a Cuban thing,” he says. “We love our olive oil and salt.”

Upon graduating from the California Highway Patrol Academy in the mid-1980s, Acevedo worked a patrol in East

Acevedo was born in Havana just before the revolution, and

L.A. It was a time of riots and gang violence, but also of new

left with his family a few years after it, thanks to the LBJ-spon-

frontiers in food. “There was La Carreta, a little Mexican in-

sored refugee policy that flew an estimated 300,000 Cubans to

terior place with incredible food, and King Taco, the infa-

the U.S. and gave them a path to citizenship. Once settled in El

mous place where I’d always order no chile and they’d always

Monte, California, Acevedo’s father, who’d been a police officer in

forget and I got tired of sending it back and learned to eat

Havana, worked menial construction jobs and read voracious-

hot. I’m a foodie,” he says as he pats his stomach, “as you can

ly—reminding his kids that freedom is the greatest gift of all.

probably tell. Being Cuban, I love my rice, but my doctor says

Eight years ago, shortly after moving from California to Aus-

I have to lay off.” Thankfully, the world is still full of meat.

tin to head the police department, Acevedo ran into Luci Baines

Outside, on a deck overlooking acres of oak forest, he puts

Johnson at an event where both were scheduled to speak. He

the rib eyes onto the grill, lets them cook a while, then covers

was uncharacteristically starstruck. “What in the world was I

them with a heavy dusting of Lawry’s Seasoned Salt, “which

going to say to her?” he remembers. “I mean, who am I? Some

I hope you like,” he says, “because it’s the key to life. What’s

cop, right? But if someone had told my father that I would end

in it? Everything a Cuban loves.”

up the first Hispanic police chief, here, where LBJ spent so

Speaking of which, the chief observes, “a mojito would go

much time, he would have said they were crazy. And he had so

down easy, wouldn’t it?” It wouldn’t do before the vigil, but

much respect for the Civil Rights Act and the Voting Rights Act

some other night? That these sentiments are phrased as quesEDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

23

tions is no accident—Acevedo specializes in “community” policing, and that spirit extends to casual conversation. “What’s your story?” he asks—interrupting one of his own. “Where’d you grow up? How’d you get here?” Unlike some public figures, he’s a good listener. And he’ll share that mojito recipe, even though he can’t drink one tonight. Furthermore, “how about those Austin food trucks and barbecue joints?” he asks, and “isn’t it depressing when Hey Cupcake runs out of the 24 Carrot?”

He serves the steaks—perfectly medium-rare, with extra Lawry’s on the side—and goes to Hutto to pay his respects. A mere 24 hours later, Acevedo strolls down Fourth Street, on patrol in the middle of a standing-room-only marriage equality street party. Rowdy drunks who might otherwise avoid a uniformed officer seem thrilled to run into the guy they call “Chief Art”—shaking his hand, yelling into his ear, telling their stories. It’s another long workday that will stretch into the night, but Acevedo is exactly where he wants to be, in no hurry to move on.

CHIEF ART’S CUBAN SALAD AND “KEY TO LIFE” STEAK Serves 3–4 For the salad: 1 white onion, thinly sliced 2 ripe avocados, cut into small chunks 3 perfect, large tomatoes, cut into chunks Sea salt Good olive oil Toss the onion, avocado and tomato together. Arrange on a large platter, generously salt and drizzle with plenty of olive oil.

For the steaks: 3–4 big, thick, dry-aged rib eyes Sea salt and pepper Lawry’s Seasoned Salt Heat a gas grill on high for 15 to 30 minutes. Salt and pepper the steaks.

Grill the steaks for 6 minutes, then turn over and cook for another 6 minutes. Just before removing the steaks from the grill, dust liberally with Lawry’s. Let rest 10 minutes before serving. Steaks will be medium-rare to medium.

CHIEF ART’S “OFF-DUTY” MOJITO Makes 1 cocktail 6 mint leaves, plus more for garnish ½ oz. fresh lime juice ¾ oz. Monin Mojito mix (you could also substitute a simple syrup) A generous pour (about 1.5 oz.) of rum (“plain old Bacardi,” says Acevedo, but you could also use Treaty Oak Platinum Rum) Topo Chico or other fizzy water Muddle mint leaves with lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Strain the mixture into a highball glass. Add Monin or simple syrup and rum, stirring well. Fill glass with ice cubes, then top off with desired amount of Topo Chico. Garnish with mint leaves.

24

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Lettuce help you grow your own!

8648 OLD BEE CAVES RD. (512)288-6113 www.naturalgardeneraustin.com

NOW JUICING

3421 South Lamar in the 704 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

25

26

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

KATHIE SEVER

BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

O

n a hot evening in ear-

trade shows and music festivals

ly June, Kathie Lebeck

nationwide. The validation has

Sever starts dinner by

made her as happy as an intense-

making a fire in a circle of rocks

ly private person can be, but no

in her Austin backyard. Back-

amount of success, she says, is a

packing season has just begun in

substitute for the solitude of her

the High Sierra of California—

beloved wilderness backpacking.

her favorite place on earth—but

Her need to go there, and do that,

this summer, she’ll be way too

is genetic. “My mom and dad were

busy to spend much time there.

outdoorsy,” she says. “They met

This outdoor dinner is a com-

leading trips for the Sierra Club.

promise—not cooked at a rug-

In the 1960s, my mom was hired as

ged campsite on a small white-

cook for an expedition in Alaska.

gas stove, not in response to a

The men went off and did a first

pleasantly bottomless hunger, not

ascent while she made camp and

after a long day of hiking. It trig-

fended off grizzly bears.”

gers good memories all the same.

“There’s

something

Sever’s California childhood

primal

was full of extended hikes with

about walking all day long, not

extended family—beginning on

thinking about much except how

her mother’s back in a homemade

to get to the next place you need

backpack,

to be in time to eat,” Sever says.

her sometimes grumpy teens

“I’m always so desperate to be

and persisting even after moving

there that when I finally arrive,

continuing

through

to Montana and then to Texas.

I feel instantly blissed out. Because some parts of life are

These days, she treks with her children (11 and 15), her sister

just so fraught—doing what’s best for your kids, dealing with

Debbie and her kids, and her mother, who is more devoted

your business, wondering how to afford to keep living in Aus-

to solo expeditions and minimalist gear at 80 than she was at

tin. It’s a never-ending hustle. But somehow, very, very stren-

40. Sever and her sister like to spend winters planning food

uous backpacking is not.”

for the next family hike. They don’t mess with the expensive,

The view from her fire ring comprises roses and toma-

freeze-dried meals sold by outfitters. Instead, they stockpile

to plants, her kids’ well-used trampoline and the unassuming

extra portions of one-pot dinners—preserving them in a dehy-

shack where her popular line of swank and rustic western-in-

drator and measuring them into zip-close bags. “In camp, you

spired, custom-embroidered (and sometimes recycled) cloth-

add boiling water and let it rehydrate,” Sever says. “We’ll bring

ing is designed and made. A few years ago, she rebranded her

tubes of butter or coconut butter or ghee, and add in some fat,

business as Fort Lonesome, rebuilt a vintage chain-stitch sew-

or maybe a can of sardines, with the oil. My sister and I are

ing machine and put it to use. The new entity took off. Sev-

all about the ritual. We’ll take our time, stirring and chatting.”

eral well-known musicians and actors were already wearing

Sever’s kettle begins to boil on the grate over the open fire.

her handmade shirts, but now the fashion world was paying

She empties a bag of multicolored food flakes into a bowl,

attention. She hired four seamstresses, added more vintage ma-

adds hot water and stirs—taking her time. After a while, the

chines and took Fort Lonesome on the road to maker events,

ingredients reassemble into chicken curry with chard and EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

27

build your own at

11525 Manchaca Road

order online at

slavonkandhortus.com delivery

build your own bar

jasmine rice—a hot and surprisingly substantial dinner. “It turns into a sort of heavenly goop,” Sever says. “And it almost always tastes amazing. At the end of the day, when the sweat starts to cool and you’re feeling a little chill and you finally get that first taste of food? Like nectar of the gods.”

event decor

SOUTH 6000 S. Congress • NORTH 5000 N. Lamar

squarerut.com Facebook and Twitter (@SquareRut)

KATHIE SEVER’S “HEAVENLY CAMPSITE GOOP”

Fall is Golden WilDflOWer.Org

J o i n us th is seaso n fo r Austin Museum Day Bug Night Out Native Plant Sale Texas Native Plant Week 28

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Sept. 20 Oct. 2 Oct. 10-11 Oct. 18-24

Feeds 3–4 hungry hikers Special equipment needed: A dehydrator 1–2 T. olive oil, coconut oil, ghee or butter, plus extra for serving* 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 lb. chard or kale, ripped into manageable pieces 2 c. cooked, shredded chicken 2 c. prepared jasmine rice (cooked in bone broth, if possible) 1 small jar prepared curry sauce (Sever likes Thai Kitchen Curry Simmer Sauce—not the paste!)

Sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until translucent and slightly browned. Add the greens and stir-fry until wilted. Add the chicken and rice, stirring until heated through. Stir in the entire jar of curry sauce and simmer for 5 minutes or so to meld flavors. Remove from the heat and spread thinly on silicone drying mats. Place the mats in a dehydrator and process until dry and crunchy—usually about 12 hours. Check to make sure no moist bits remain. Remove from the dehydrator, transfer to a plastic zip-close bag and crush with your hands, or a rolling pin, into smaller bits. To rehydrate, empty the bag into a pot or large thermal cup, add 2 cups of hot-to-boiling water and stir occasionally until the water is absorbed. Before serving, stir in additional butter or oil—about 1 tablespoon per person. *Use fat sparingly in recipes you plan to dehydrate. Add it in just before serving.

k eepin’ it fresh and local

Rainbow carrots for Chef Chris at 360

Chef Dee Dee examines the peaches for cobblers

Chef Rojo chooses tomatoes for Oak Hill

Round Rock’s Chef John picks okra

OAK HILL • ROUND ROCK • 360 jackallenskitchen.com

PEOPLE

TERESA WILSON

BY A N N A TO O N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K N OXY

T

eresa Wilson speaks quite softly. It’s a strain to hear her voice above the passing cars on Airport Boulevard as she sits on the sunlit patio of her newest restaurant, Sala and Betty.

The space, previously occupied by Stallion Grill,

30

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

has been thoughtfully renovated and reopened as a hybrid—casual cuisine with a decided nod to the upscale, partnered with a drive-thru offering sandwiches and a la carte items such as pork shoulder and bake-at-home soufflé. What’s the concept?

Sign up for a design consult and receive a $50 gift card.

Simple.

Treehouse.co/kitchen

At TreeHouse, we believe good design should always support thoughtful building. Design, at the end of the day, should make the world a better place.

There’s no better place to start than your home.

TreeHouse.co 512-861-0712 Kitchen Design · Flooring · Lighting · Gardening & more

4477 S. Lamar Blvd., Suite 600 Austin, TX 78745

HOSTED BY

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2015 4PM – 8PM A celebration of local farmers, chefs and the magic that happens when they come together!

FEATURED CHEFS Andrew Curren | Arro, Italic, 24 Diner, Easy Tiger Jason Stude | Boiler Nine Bar & Grill Andrew Wiseheart | Contigo, Gardner Zach Hunter & James Robert | Fixe Erica Beneke | Max’s Wine Dive Mark Buley & Sam Hellman-Mass | Odd Duck, Barley Swine Harold Marmulstein | Salty Sow Josh Jones | Salt & Time Rocky Stubblefield | Stubb’s BBQ

L i v e M u s i c by L o s t P i n e s • C r a f t B e e r & W i n e $

75 General Admission

|

$

150 VIP

Tickets must be purchased in advance, not available at the door. TRA-Sunday-Supper.Eventbrite.com

- Sponsored by Chef Works, Coca-Cola, Edible Austin, Infinite Monkey Theorem, Mission Restaurant Supply, Moody National Bank, Real Ale Brewing Co., Stubb’s BBQ, Texas Beef Council, Weige Knives, Yeti

- Benefitting -

“…you have to remember that just because it’s a male-dominated industry doesn’t mean you can’t be a big part of it. I lift as much as anyone else. You can do anything in the kitchen. Just remember that.” —Teresa Wilson “That is the million-dollar question,” Wilson says with a laugh.

As children, Wilson and her sister called each other “Sala”—a term of endearment they thought sounded like the Spanish ed they couldn’t both be Sala. “She said, ‘You’re Betty,’ and I’m

“The Jemima Code digs deep to unearth treasures and histories of black cooks, their books, and their recipes.”

like, ‘Alright, I’m Betty,’” recalls Wilson. It’s this sentimentality

— M A R C U S S A M U E L S S O N, author of Yes, Chef

their mother spoke at home. Eventually, Wilson’s sister decid-

and lack of pretension that make it difficult to imagine the fineboned, delicate Wilson as a culinary powerhouse, but then again, there’s no need to imagine. From her humble beginnings at Bill Miller Bar-B-Q to her remarkable stint as the chef/owner of the now-shuttered (though not for lack of acclaim) French restaurant Aquarelle, the self-taught Wilson has indelibly marked the Austin food scene with her refined and sophisticated approach to preparing food, from bordelaise to her mother’s stewed potatoes.

Born in Colorado to a military family, Wilson spent much of her early life traveling throughout the United States—with stops in Spain as well as Japan—before moving to Austin as an eighth-grader in 1975. After receiving a full-ride scholarship to the University of Texas in chemical engineering, Wilson married, had a child and then divorced, only to find herself in need of an income. Working at Bill Miller Bar-B-Q helped ends meet until her eldest brother suffered a diving accident and was para-

The Jemima Code Two Centuries of African American Cookbooks

BY TONI TIPTON-MARTIN For e wor ds by Joh n Egert on a n d Ba r b a r a H a be r

Showcasing one of the world’s largest private collections of African American cookbooks, ranging from rare nineteenth-century texts to modern classics by Edna Lewis and Vertamae Grosvenor, this lavishly illustrated collection speaks volumes about America’s food culture.

lyzed. Wilson found a job working nights so that she could help take care of her brother during the day while her mother and sister worked. It was then, while working at a music venue on

university of texas press

Sixth Street, that she met the manager of an Italian restaurant called Basil’s—one of the first fine-dining restaurants in Austin

utexaspress.com

after The Courtyard and Jeffrey’s.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

33

Custom & From Scratch!

Wilson worked at Basil’s for 17 years—eventually running the

Cakes | Sculpted Designs Small Bites | Cake Bars Cupcakes | Popper Shots

catering side of the business and working the line filling in for one of three chefs when they vacationed. During her tenure, she also met business partner Robert Brady. The two began traveling together to France—honing their classic French-cooking skills— and opened Aquarelle in 2000. Tucked into a charming, elegant home on a then-sleepy West Sixth Street, Aquarelle consistently garnered strong accolades and remained a fine-dining stalwart for 12 years, until Wilson and Brady decided it was the right time within their partnership to close the restaurant. Wilson’s plans

4201 S. Congress #101 512.797.7367

for the property were to open a Latin-influenced restaurant

bluenotebakery.com

called Chonita’s (the name itself a tribute to her grandmother),

Gluten Free Available!

but they were put on indefinite hold when an offer was made and the property was sold.

In the years between the closing of Aquarelle and the opening

“Best place to cure what ails you”

of Sala and Betty, Wilson chose to focus on her family—spending time with her two younger children who struggled with dyslexia. “It was at a critical time, and I was able to be there every day,” she says. “It was a two-year program, and one was finishing and one was just starting. I never thought I’d see the day where

SATURDAY NATURAL TALKS Always free! Always empowering!

Come in to see us! Mon.–Sat. 10–6:30 or visit us online.

theherbbar.com 200 W. Mary St. 512.444.6251

34

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

they could come home and do their homework and not need my help, but it’s here, so…I could have retired and continued to focus on motherhood, but I just couldn’t give it up.”

In light of her long track record in a decidedly male-dominated industry, and the fact that she’s jumped back in, were there any challenges? “For women, I would say to keep a good

sense of humor, because you know, you just have to laugh some things off because there’s a lot of ego,” she says. “You can see some of the power plays and to not get caught up in that, but you have to remember that just because it’s a male-dominated industry doesn’t mean you can’t be a big part of it. I lift as much as anyone else. You can do anything in the kitchen. Just remember that.”

While the restaurant is in its infancy and requires extensive hours, Wilson somehow finds time to help out with numerous charity organizations, including the Dyslexia Center of Austin and Green Corn Project. She’s also a member of the Austin chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier. One nonprofit particularly close to her heart is Urban Roots, and after meeting Executive Director Max Elliott, Wilson decided to get involved. “Max approached me about doing a community lunch, so I said ‘Absolutely.’ I really admire his program and the kids who are a part of that. To see the transition from when they first start to two years later, it’s a real proud moment for Urban Roots.” In fact, Wilson plans to purchase produce from Urban Roots when the farm recovers from the spring floods.

“I think it’s really important to give back, and if I can help in any way,” she says, “I will.”

While Wilson nurtures Sala and Betty and builds the business, Chonita’s remains an aspiration. “Let’s get through this first,” she says. “Right now I’m a little tired, but when you have that in your blood, and it’s just your drive, it’s hard to let it go.”

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

35

COOKS toolbox

HERS AND HERS MUST-HAVE KITCHEN TOOLS

BY J O A N N SA N TA N G E LO A N D K AT E PAY N E

B

ecause I write books and features about food, most people assume I’m solely responsible for all things food and drink that come from our kitchen. But the truth is, even though I can cook the daily meals, and am pretty good at it, that doesn’t mean I like to do it. Luckily, my wife and I are very different.

When Jo Ann and I were dating and living together for the first time in our small Brooklyn apartment, she opened my eyes to the cyclical nature of the kitchen— transforming my bachelorette kitchen habits into the

JO ANN’S

1.

LODGE 12” CAST-IRON SKILLET.

Simple, minimal, one-pan cooking is my kitchen MO, and a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet is so versatile that I cook almost all of our meals in it—from a weeknight chicken dinner to date-night seared duck breasts with marsala wine (a very basic, yet totally delicious way to cook duck; the recipe is from Eugenia Bone’s “The Kitchen Ecosystem”). The beauty of cast iron is that it can go from stovetop to oven. The most important thing to consider, though, is cleaning.

Don’t let it soak in water or let it sit while still wet—this will cause it to rust. After cooking and scraping out the remains of dinner, I usually heat water in our teakettle, pour it into the skillet and gently rub with a pan brush to remove food debris. Then I dry it with a paper towel and add a few drops of neutral/high-heat oil (we use sunflower).

36

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

lifestyle of a cooking person—something I’d always hoped to be but never quite mastered. She’s the type of person for whom cooking is relaxing and enjoyable, and this relationship to food and cooking set the stage for our current roles. She’s the one who makes sure we eat, and I’m the special projects coordinator— the keeper of the breads, jams, pickles, kimchis, ice creams, bitters, liqueurs, etc. (and the one responsible for the supplemental pizzazz). Our essential tools reflect these general roles. —Kate Payne

2.

BOOS CUTTING BOARD. We inherited a vintage version of this board from Kate’s grandmother. I can’t imagine not having this beauty on our counter. I love the size and stability, and I like to lay out all the ingredients I’m about to use on it—it helps me see what I have and decide how it will be cut, sliced and diced, as well as think about seasoning and flavors. Being able to move the peppers to the left so that I can mince the garlic and then slice the zucchini, all on one board, is simply magic to my minimalist cooking heart.

3.

WÜSTHOF CLASSIC 7” SANTOKU KNIFE.

4.

I love my knife—it’s super light, yet effective and versatile. I use this knife two to three times a day to slice, dice, chop and mince. I was recently over at a friend’s house preparing a meal, and all they had was a dull, cheap knife. After I finally sawed my way through the meal prep, I understood why she didn’t like to cook. A good, sharp knife makes all the difference in the world when preparing fresh ingredients, and is probably the most essential tool for any chef or home cook. Getting a good one doesn’t require a whole paycheck, and a whole set is not needed. Start with one great knife and add to your arsenal over time.

WOODEN SCRAPER SPATULA.

Next to our stove, we have about 10 wooden cooking utensils (spatulas and spoons).

By far, my favorite is the spatula. I use it for almost every meal. It’s an essential tool for cooking in cast iron or enameled cast iron (my other favorite cooking pan): It stirs, it scrapes (without scratching) and it stands up to high heat. A few nice burn marks on a wooden utensil give it character, and one never has to worry about it melting. Ditch that plastic black number acquired in college and upgrade to this classic version.

KATE’S

1.

BREADMAN BREAD MACHINE. I know bread machines seem like a cheater method—sucking the fun out of the art of bread-making— but when you bake a loaf of gluten-free bread every other week, it’s essential. I combine my dry flour blend in batches of three or four and store them in mason jars in the refrigerator. When it’s time to bake, I combine the wet ingredients, pull out a jar of the dry, add yeast and let two hours and 40 minutes elapse until that fresh-baked bread smell permeates the house. I’ve always used thrift-store machines and got hooked on a particular Breadman model I once found. When this one retires, I’ll happily purchase another—I’m very pleased with the functionality and final product.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

37

2.

RUBBERMAID HIGH-HEAT SPATULA. This might just be my desert island kitchen tool—provided one can make cakes, custards and jams on said island. I learned about the supreme usefulness of these spatulas from my mother, who was in the restaurant business for 30 years. They withstand about any abuse one can inflict, but I recommend dedicated spatulas for pickling and savory projects, because no one wants garlic or other spices (that the silicone can retain) in their strawberry jam or vanilla ice cream.

3.

WIRE MESH STRAINER. I use this strainer constantly for many of my kitchen projects. It’s a perfect tool for removing the fruit after the first stage of fermenting raw, live vinegars, or for straining the custard before adding cream in French-style ice cream. With other projects, I add a layer of filtration with a fine-weave muslin to strain whey from the yogurt I make (this produces a thicker, Greek-style texture), or I use a coffee filter inside the strainer to catch sediment from tinctured bitters, tonics, and other syrups and infusions.

4.

LE CREUSET 8-QUART STOCK POT. This pot always seems to be full. I use it for the obvious stocks and broths made from saved bones and vegetable scraps that are kept in three freezer bins (one chicken, one fish and the “other” category that is mostly beef and pork, with veggie scraps distributed among each). When a bin is full, it’s time to make stock. I also use this pot for small-batch canning. A 9-inch round cake rack fits perfectly in the bottom, converting this pot into a small canning pot that can accommodate about as many half-pint jars as most of my canning recipes yield and as my home garden produces at one harvest. I pull out the 12-quart stainless steel pot, or the 14-quart lobster pot when I need to can taller jars like pints or quarts. Since this 8-quart pot works with my induction burner as well, I tend to take it with me when canning in the wild (libraries, bookstores and other places with a power outlet but no true kitchen).

JO ANN SANTANGELO Jo Ann Santangelo is a photographer and filmmaker based in Austin, Texas, who specializes in long-term, in-depth documentary projects.

Her work explores issues of discrimination, sexual identity and marginalized communities. Her work has appeared in The Washington Post, The Guardian, Mother Jones, Texas Observer, The Advocate, Food & Wine, Edible Austin and in numerous international publications, and has been exhibited in galleries in New York, California, Massachusetts, Texas, Arizona, Connecticut and Oregon. See her work at joannsantangelo.com

KATE PAYNE Kate Payne is an author and freelance writer, and a frequent consultant for design, decor, cooking and crafting publications and sites. She lives in Austin and teaches classes on food preservation, liqueurs and bitters and other topics, both privately and at culinary centers across the country. Her books “Hip Girl’s Guide to Homemaking” (HarperCollins, 2011) and “Hip Girl’s Guide to the Kitchen” (HarperCollins, 2014) are available wherever books are sold. Read more about Kate on her blog: hipgirlshome.com and website: katepayne.net 38

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

tomorrow exchange buy * sell*trade Your Baking Headquarters Tools & Supplies

for making cakes, cookies and candies

Decorating Classes

beginner to advanced 9070 Research Blvd.

(512) 371-3401 www.MakeItSweet.com

ON THE DRAG: 2904 Guadalupe St. 512-480-9922

BuffaloExchange.com

Heirloom Treasures for Texas Tables G i f t s • H o u s e w a r e s • G a r d e n • H a r d w a r e • Fe e d

501 Bastrop Hwy, Austin 512-385-3452 Monday-Saturday 8am to 6pm

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

39

MARKETPLACE

MONGERS MARKET + KITCHEN

BY ST EV E W I LSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY A L I SO N N A R RO

40

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

“I’d go skulking around Austin looking for the same quality of fish you get in Corpus Christi, but couldn’t find it,” he says. “So I figured I could do better.” —Roberto San Miguel

R

oberto San Miguel, co-owner of Mongers Market +

altogether to fish for profit in his native Corpus Christi.

Kitchen, can cuss like a sailor when he wants to, but

After Texas banned commercial trout and redfish in 1981,

mostly when he’s quoting sailors. Thing is, he knows

he and some friends started selling amberjack and other

a lot of sailors.

He repeats an especially long and pungent blue streak that he heard from the mouth of a sea dog back in 2007,

Gulf fish instead. Finding himself stranded on an oil rig in a storm that “pretty much sank” his boat, he switched from fish-catching to fish-buying (more money, less wet).

when Texas started making commercial anglers pay for the

He returned to fishmongering years later as a sideline

right to catch a set quota of red snapper. A former Corpus

while he worked as a research specialist in the state attor-

Christi fisherman himself, San Miguel thought the quotas

ney general’s office. He needed a way to pay off his student

were a good idea, but he listened respectfully until he could

debts, and the Gulf (or at least what was in the Gulf ) called

work in a question: “Who’s got the most quotas and are they

to him. “I’d go skulking around Austin looking for the same

willing to part with some snapper?”

quality of fish you get in Corpus Christi, but couldn’t find

San Miguel has always been enterprising like that. When

it,” he says. “So I figured I could do better.”

he tired of working for newspapers in the 1970s, he started

That’s when San Miguel found the person with all the

one of his own. At the start of the 1980s, he left journalism

red snapper: Mark Friudenberg of Captain Mark’s Seafood

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

41

in Freeport. After striking a deal with Friudenberg and a few oth-

taken out the permits on an East Cesar Chavez space to start a

er suppliers, San Miguel became one of Austin’s only sources of

fish-and-chips shop but never followed through. Even then, San

Gulf seafood straight off the boat. Ever since, he’s set off for Free-

Miguel and Stark had plenty of red tape to slash. “It took six

port once a week and returned the same day with 1,000 pounds

months just to get the lights on,” he says.

of snapper, grouper, flounder, tuna, swordfish and other delights

Mongers finally opened last March. Stark creates the menu

that Austin would otherwise have to get frozen. “The fact of the

every day from a boutique selection of whatever weighty spec-

matter is, I just have to have my fresh seafood,” he says. “So to be

imen the staff hauls in from the refrigerated truck. San Miguel

honest with you, this is a pretty selfish endeavor.”

sells a sampling behind his case by the door. “Look at these

Getting a steady supply of fish was the easy part. After initial talks with Austin chefs went practically nowhere, San Miguel

shrimp!” he brags about a particularly tasty looking selection under the glass. “You need sunglasses!”

figured he could ride the “buy local” craze and set up shop at

For San Miguel, no fish tastes like Gulf fish, and he defends

the downtown farmers market in 2008. He became one of the

the oft-ridiculed waters in which they splash. He says snapper

market’s most popular sellers, but he was after a bigger catch:

populations are healthy, and the 2010 oil spill did no lasting

Jeffrey’s, Four Seasons and another 80 restaurants who became

damage. As for the stink, he says that’s just the Sargasso Sea

wholesale customers because of the booth. “Being at the market

rolling in—a necessary part of life in the Gulf. (Named for the

was a marketing ploy,” he says.

seaweed Sargassum, the sea originates from the North Atlantic

Four years later, San Miguel quit the farmers market to pur-

and is made up of a floating mass of seaweed.) “It builds habitats

sue an idea he’d always talked about with Shane Stark, executive

for sea life, and when it washes away in September, you can see

chef of Kenichi: expand the booth into a permanent location and

sailfish a hundred yards off the beach,” he says. “Go far enough

attach a restaurant to it. “You’ve got to admit, I’ve got balls like

out there, and you can see straight down to the bottom. It’s so

church bells to make the attempt,” he says.

beautiful.”

Planning to retire from his government job, San Miguel hoped to open Mongers within the year, but Austin real estate had oth-

Mongers Market + Kitchen

er plans. Every space was either too expensive or unavailable.

2401 E. Cesar Chavez St.

Finally, in 2013, one of the many real estate agents San Miguel

512-215-8972

regularly pestered called with the perfect spot. Someone had

mongersaustin.com

231 San Saba Ct. • Blanco, TX 78606 42

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Hey Big Kids!

Get “Back to School” with one of our Cheese Classes.

4220 Duval Street | (512) 531-9610

www.AntonellisCheese.com

Kuhlman Cellars provides intimate and unique sommelier guided wine tastings including chef designed bites with each wine.

Appointments Accepted: Friday & Saturday: 11am - 6pm Sunday: 12-5pm 512-920-2675 (CORK) appointments@kuhlmancellars.com

18421 E US 290 Stonewall, TX kuhlmancellars.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

43

COME IN & EN J OY OUR SE A SONAL ITEMS .

HANDMADE FROM SCRATCH T H E D O M A I N 11506 Century Oaks Terrace 512.339.4400 N O R T H I TA L I A R E S TAU R A N T. COM

NOR_Austin_EdibleAustin_SeptOct2015_7.5x4.75.indd 1

7/21/15 10:51 AM

Lone Star Foodservice is committed to delivering the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to discerning chefs across Texas.

As a silent partner to our chefs, we are an innovative resource for their emerging needs.

Texas’ Premier Distributor of Niman Ranch

Austin | Dallas | Fort Worth | Houston | San Antonio Executive Chef Camden Stuerzenberger, Fork & Vine

Interested in joining Lone Star?

Contact hr@lonestarfood.com 512.646.6218 | LoneStarFood.com

cooking BASICS

RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE

BY W I L L PAC KWO O D • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H CU T T

R

agù alla Bolognese is a rich yet delicate meat sauce originating in Bologna, the capital of Emilia-Romagna. Ragù is a classification of thick, meat-based sauces generally served with pasta, and on October 17, 1982, Bologna’s chapter of the Accademia Italiana della Cucina chose one recipe to be accepted as the “most accurately true” ragù alla Bolognese. Of course, this set off weeks of debate, discussion and questions about the most traditional ingredients, the most traditional quantities of said

ingredients, the most traditional method of preparation and the origin of ragù alla Bolognese. As with all other authentic Italian foods, there are as many recipes and variations as there are cooks.

What can be agreed upon, though, is that ragù alla Bolognese is finely minced meat long-simmered with various vegetables, aromatics, liquids and the addition of tomato, crushed and/or paste. To better understand the finished product, let’s look at the individual components.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

45

FATS Emilia-Romagna occupies the majority of the Po Valley, Italy’s agriculture center, and produces large quantities of milk and dairy products. Butter is the obvious choice of cooking fat—it adds a subtle richness and sweetness to the finished sauce. Usually, a small amount of olive oil or vegetable oil is added to help raise the smoking point and prevent the butter from burning.

AROMATICS Carrot, celery and onion are almost always included—they provide depth to the long-cooking ragù. In addition, softer more delicate herbs, such as parsley and bay leaves, are often included to add freshness. Harsher flavors such as garlic and more robust herbs and spices are usually omitted.

MEATS Today, beef is the most commonly used meat. Pork and veal are often included to add texture and richness.

The best cut is from the shoulder of the animal, the chuck and pork butt. These cuts benefit from the long cooking time and have a great meat-to-fat ratio. Many recipes also include pancetta, salt pork and chicken livers, each of which add additional flavors and consistencies.

LIQUIDS

We Support Local Farmers • Tree Covered Patio Fresh Ingredients • Cooking from Scratch BEER DINNER with Karbach Brewing Co Sept. 16 Get your tickets now!

GREEN CHILE FEST All September

Milk is usually the first liquid added during the simmering process. Milk adds a subtle sweetness and aids in softening the meats. Wine adds flavor, and more importantly, acidity. Only use a wine you would drink—any negative flavors in the wine will become more evident during the cooking process. Tomato puree adds additional liquid and that expected tomato-y flavor, but remember, this is a meat ragù, not tomato sauce; tomato only plays a supporting role. Broth is used when additional liquid is needed (make sure it’s very mild or diluted with water so as not to overpower the other flavors). Heavy cream, sometimes reduced to a thick consistency, is often added immediately before serving.

ADDITIONAL FLAVORS 700 E. Whitestone Blvd #204, Cedar Park 512-528-0889 • bluecornharvest.com 46

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Other flavors are sometimes included: Nutmeg is fairly common, adding a pleasant earthiness. Rinds

America’s WINE

SPIRITPESRS&TOBREEER SU

Proud to be in TEXAS!

More than 8,000 wines, including the perfect one for tonight’s dinner.

With a Texas-sized selection, Total Wine & More has a wine to pair with whatever Austin is planning for dinner. We have the city’s largest selection of wine, spirits and beer under one roof–at the lowest prices. We are proud to offer a huge assortment of artisanal, hand-crafted Texas wines, beers and spirits. Because we have more than 115 superstores, we have the buying power to bring you the best wines at the lowest prices.

Our wine team is the best trained in the industry.

Just think of them as tour guides guiding you through the great wine regions of the world.

They are committed and dedicated to bringing you the Total Wine Experience.™

GRAND OPENING! SUNSET VALLEY Sunset Valley Village (adjacent to Nordstrom Rack) 5601 Brodie Lane Sunset Valley, TX 78745 (512) 892-8763

www.totalwine.com

GET ON HILL COUNTRY TIME.

Why wait for the weekend to start having fun? Go for a hike, do some fishing, take in a wine tasting or find that missing piece of art in your life. plan your vacation at marblefalls.org.

ONCE YOU FIND US YOU WON’T FORGET US!

14 ACRE GARDEN CENTER TREE FARM ORGANIC GARDENING SUPPLIES VEGETABLE GARDENING HEADQUARTERS 830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls www.BackboneValleyNursery.com 48

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

of Parmigiano-Reggiano and anchovies are also often used to add savory notes (aka umami).

SERVING SUGGESTIONS Ragù alla Bolognese is most typically served with tagliatelle (a flat pasta similar to fettuccine). Small- to medium-sized hollow maccheroni shapes, such as rigatoni, penne and garganelli are also suitable. Round noodles such as spaghetti are never served with ragù alla Bolognese because of their inability to hold the sauce.

Ragù alla Bolognese is also an important component of lasagne alla Bolognese.

RAGÙ ALLA BOLOGNESE Makes 8 generous servings 2 T. olive oil

Worth The Journey Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views

The Restaurant at Compass Rose Cellars Proprietors: Mark Watson and Will Cleveland Chef: Bryan Gillenwater • Wine Maker: Jeff Ivy

Casitas opening soon!

Call to reserve! Special pricing for wine club members.

2 T. unsalted butter 1 small yellow onion, peeled and minced 1 rib celery, washed, trimmed and minced 1 small carrot, peeled, trimmed and minced 3 T. flat-leaf parsley, leaves only, minced

Hye Texas • compassrosecellars.com • 830-868-7799 Thursday: noon-5 pm • Friday–Sunday: noon–9 pm

1 lb. ground beef ½ lb. ground veal ½ lb. ground pork 1 c. whole milk 1 c. white wine Nutmeg, to taste 14 oz. whole plum tomatoes, pureed using a food mill 1 T. tomato paste

Let us be your “end of the road” stop on Wine Road 290.

1 1-by-3-inch Parmigiano-Reggiano rind 2 bay leaves Salt and black pepper, to taste In a large pot, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, carrot and parsley to the pan and stir to coat.

Season with a small amount of salt and pepper and allow the vegetables to sweat for 5 to 7 minutes. Add the meat to the vegetables and break up using a wooden spoon. Allow the meat to cook just until the raw color goes away. Add the milk and bring to a simmer.

Allow the mixture to simmer until the milk has fully evaporated.

Add the wine and allow the mixture to simmer for 10 minutes.

Add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to a very low simmer and allow the sauce to simmer for 4 hours. Add a small amount of water if the sauce becomes too dry.

After 4 hours, adjust the seasonings, remove the bay leaves and the rind and use the sauce as needed. Any leftover sauce can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 weeks. Buon appetito!

21 ALL-Texas wines for tasting!

TexasHillsVineyard.com 1 mile east of Johnson City • 830-868-2321 EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

49

cooking BASICS

FLOUR TORTILLAS

BY I L I A N A D E L A V EGA A N D I SA B E L TO R R E A L BA

T 50

ortillas are the unrivaled accompaniment to any meal

thing to see all over Mexico.

in Mexico. And as such, they perform the same role

Unlike corn tortillas, flour tortillas call for salt and some

as bread in European cultures and rice in Asian cul-

type of fat such as lard, shortening or—as we’ve seen in recent

tures. All tortillas are flat, round disks made from cooked

times—oil or butter. The techniques and equipment used to

nixtamalized masa (corn dough) or wheat flour, and their

make flour tortillas are completely different than those used

original purpose was to serve as plates and silverware, hold-

for corn, as well. Whereas corn tortillas are flattened with

ing and complementing all types of food—a very common

a tortilla press, flour tortillas must be flattened and shaped

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

into circles with a rolling pin. And it’s important to mention that even though both kinds of tortillas are found throughout Mexico, flour tortillas originated in the Northern states of the country and had not been introduced to the Central/Southern states until recent decades. The proximity of the Northern states to the U.S. may explain why flour tortillas are more popular in this country and why they are more prevalent in the American derivations of Mexican food.

Before making the dough, decide what kind of fat will be used. Lard will make for a very flavorful tortilla, but it will also make it a bit tough. (Some recipes call for baking powder, which can make the tortillas fluffier but because it can also make them quite tough, we don’t recommend it.) We like

Happy Hour —

All Night Every Wednesday

25% off small plates & desserts and ½ off wine & beer by the glass

1200B W. 6th St. | CafeJosie.com

to use shortening to achieve perfectly soft and easy to handle tortillas.

To make the tortillas, mix the ingredients together until the dough has a smooth and homogenized consistency, then allow it to rest before dividing into small balls. Once you’ve formed the balls, it’s important to let them rest another 20 minutes so that the gluten can relax before shaping them into the desired thickness and size using a rolling pin. In contrast to corn tortillas that need to be cooked immediately after flattening, several flour tortillas can be rolled and stacked before cooking on a comal (flat griddle). As the tortillas are cooked, they can be placed inside a cloth napkin, which is usually then placed inside a canasta (woven basket). One last note: Don’t worry if your tortillas are not perfectly round—they will be equally delicious no matter what the shape!

FLOUR TORTILLAS Makes approximately 30 1½-ounce tortillas 2 lb. all-purpose flour 1 T. fine sea salt 7 oz. vegetable shortening 1 c. hot water (as warm as you can handle) In a large bowl, combine the flour and the salt. Use your hands to mix in the vegetable shortening until the mixture feels like breadcrumbs. Add the water in small amounts and continue kneading until the dough forms a smooth ball that is firm and elastic. Do not over-knead or the tortillas will be tough. Let the dough rest 20 minutes, then divide it into 1 ½ -ounce chunks. Shape each chunk into a round patty as follows: Using the table and the palm of your hand, flatten out each chunk into a thick patty about ½-inch thick.

Pull back the edges to the center and press down, turn it upside down and flatten again with the palm of your hand to form a patty.

Let the patties rest, covered with a kitchen towel, for 20 minutes.

Heat a well-seasoned comal or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Using a rolling pin, and working on an unfloured surface, roll out each patty to make very thin tortillas. Place a tortilla on the comal, cook it for 30 seconds and flip to cook on the other side for 30 more seconds—or until it has golden-brown spots, inflates and is cooked through. Repeat the process with the remaining patties.

Keep the tortillas warm until ready to serve.

turn your PASSION into your PROFESSION You have a world-class, plant-based professional culinary school right in your backyard.

RSVP online to attend a FREE Open House Scholarships Available.

Approved for GI Bill® Benefits.

Day, Evening and Weekend Programs.

Ayurveda | Macrobiotics | Raw and Living | Vegan | Vegetarian

www.naturalepicurean.com

|

512.476.2276

Located in Austin, TX EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

51

Over 200 Texas Hill Country Products

Sure to delight your taste buds.

Visit us at 15894 US Hwy 290 E. P. 830.644.2604 Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Stonewall, Texas 78671 www.burgscorner.com

Fredericksburg, Texas 78624 www.littlechef.com ∙ info@littlechef.com 830.997.4937

Wine Tasting ~ Bistro Wine Club ~ Private Events Annual Events Hours: Monday - Thursday, 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.

Friday & Saturday, 10 a.m. - 6 p.m.

Sunday, Noon – 6 p.m.

Last wine tasting, 30 min before closing.

www.beckervineyards.com 830-644-2681 Directions: 11 miles east of Fredericksburg, 3 miles west of Stonewall, off US Hwy 290 at Jenschke Lane.

Der Küchen Laden ∙ 258 E. Main St. Fredericksburg, TX 78624 830.997.4937 info@littlechef.com www.littlechef.com

Now Open

52

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

SINCRONIZADAS DE HONGOS CON SALSA DE JITOMATE ASADO Y CHILE SERRANO (MUSHROOM TORTILLA SANDWICH WITH ROASTED TOMATO AND SERRANO SALSA) Makes 4 For the salsa: 5 ripe Roma tomatoes 2 serrano chilies, or to taste 1 garlic clove, unpeeled 1 t. salt, or to taste Dry-roast the tomatoes, chilies and garlic on a comal or skillet set over medium heat. Remove the garlic when brown spots appear on the papery skin, then peel and reserve. Keep turning the tomatoes and chilies as they char. Discard the stem of the chilies. Place the tomatoes, chilies and garlic in a blender, season with salt and blend. The sauce should be thick.

For the filling: 1½ T. canola oil ½ white onion, sliced in julienne strips 2 serrano chilies, or to taste, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped ½ lb. mushrooms, sliced 1 T. epazote leaves, chopped To finish: 8 flour tortillas 3 c. Oaxaca cheese, shredded Heat the oil in a sauté pan, add the onion and chilies and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, then mix in the mushrooms, reduce the heat to simmer and cover with a lid. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes until the mushrooms are cooked through. Add the epazote and move the pan off the heat. Place 4 tortillas on a flat surface. Using half of the cheese, make a thin layer on top of each tortilla. Divide the mushroom filling among the 4 tortillas and top with an even layer of the remaining cheese. Cover each with one of the remaining tortillas.

Heat a comal or a griddle over medium-low heat. Place the sincronizadas (tortilla sandwiches) on top—pressing down with a spatula as they cook. The tortillas should have some brown spots and be slightly crispy, while the filling should be warm and the cheese melted. Cut them in half, or not, and serve warm with the salsa on the side.

3D mammography is at HCM. 3D technology captures images of the breast from different angles to produce a highly accurate picture. This allows radiologists to see smaller cancers with much more detail than a traditional 2D mammogram.

Schedule today!

HCM BREAST CENTER

(830) 990-6181 Brune Professional Building 808 Reuben St, Fredericksburg hillcountrymemorial.org/bc

A Spoonful of Shopping Helps the Mammogram Go Down The HCM PINK CARD , a discount card from local retailers, will be given to women who receive their annual mammogram at the HCM Breast Center.

Go online for a list of participating vendors. hillcountrymemorial.org/pinkcard

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

53

cooking BASICS

GUMBO

BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N

J 54

ust say the city’s name—New Orleans—and most like-

erally agreed that Native Americans, slave traders and enslaved

ly your mind will conjure up visions of food and drink.

Africans all lent their hands to the creation of the dish. Okra, a

And somewhere in the sensuous mélange of remem-

key ingredient in gumbo, used both for its flavor and its prop-

bered aromas, textures and heat levels, a bowl of dark and

erties as a thickener, was introduced by Africans, who brought

mysterious, spicy, brooding gumbo will surely emerge.

the ingredient to New Orleans via the Caribbean. Okra was called

New Orleans is credited with the original conception of

ngombo or kingombo in the Bantu dialect, and gave the famous dish

gumbo, a dish indicative of the famous Creole city. And it’s gen-

its name. Another important ingredient, filé, or the dried, ground

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

leaves of the sassafras tree, was created by the native Choctaws, who ground the powder and sold it in outdoor markets in New Orleans.

Filé is typically stirred into the gumbo at the table, to further flavor and thicken the brew. Something to keep in mind: Because okra will attain a ropey or “slimy” consistency if cooked for long periods, adding it toward the end of the gumbo cooking process will result in okra with a bit of crunch left and no objectionable slime.

Gumbo can be made by mixing and matching ingredients with just about any meat, fish or fowl as long there’s a good flavor base, and that base should start with a dark roux and include high-quality stock. Various types of stock can be found in specialty markets, and often seafood stock is sold by reputable seafood markets or is available in gels, which can be reconstituted in water. (If you are making a gumbo with chicken or quail, use a good poultry stock.)

Making the roux is a hands-on process, which requires a commitment of time and patience. To save time in making future pots of gumbo, it’s possible to make the roux in large quantities (you could even go ahead and add the requisite “holy trinity” of vegetables: onions, bell peppers and celery) and freeze it in one-pot-sized batches. Thaw before using.

SEAFOOD FILÉ GUMBO Serves 8–10 2 c. dark roux (see recipe below) 2 large onions, cut into ½-inch dice 2 medium green bell peppers, cut into ½-inch dice 1 large red bell pepper, cut into ½-inch dice 5 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch dice 5 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 T. minced fresh thyme 4 fresh bay leaves, minced 1 T. minced fresh basil ½ c. minced flat-leaf parsley, divided 1½ t. dried oregano 1 t. freshly ground black pepper 4 qt. seafood stock 6 small blue “gumbo” crabs, cleaned and broken in half Kosher salt and cayenne pepper to taste (but it should be spicy) 3 c. sliced fresh okra (or 1 lb. frozen, sliced okra, thawed) 2 lb. small shrimp (70/90 count, often called “gumbo shrimp”), peeled and deveined 1 lb. blue crab claw meat, picked through to remove any bits of shell or cartilage 1 qt. oysters with their luscious liquor Cooked white long-grain rice Filé powder, for serving Thin-sliced green onions, for garnish Tabasco or Crystal Hot Sauce

Dinner tues-sun 5-10pm Lunch tues-sat 11-2pm Brunch sun 10:30-2:30pm

café & bistro 1 6 9 2 0 R an c h R o ad 1 2 • Wi m be r l e y , T X 78676

512-847-5700 • www.jobellcafe.com

GUMBO ROUX Makes 2 cups 2 c. fresh leaf lard (available at Dai Due and my favorite) or vegetable shortening 2 c. all-purpose flour

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

55

Jazzed Up Casual Dining & Catering

CREATIVE EXCELLENCE FOR EVENTS LARGE & SMALL DESIGN II CATERING Design2Caters.com

Come Enjoy our Patio Setting and New Menu!

r tBin Telaxans co DisBecstokeptvesecre

FULL BAR AND PRIVATE PARTIES Open for Lunch & Dinner Tues-Fri 11-2:30 & 5-9, Sat 5-9 56

COOKS 2015

919 Main Street, Bastrop 512-321-3577 baxtersonmain.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

www.blancochamber.com / 830-833-5101

Making the roux is a hands-on process, which requires a commitment of time and patience.

Begin by making the roux. Melt the lard or shortening in a large, deep-sided cast iron skillet over medium heat. When the fat is hot, add the flour all at once and stir or whisk quickly to blend the fat and flour until smooth. (Your choice of stirring implement should be guided by the fact that the roux will take a while to make, and metal utensils tend to become very hot. A whisk with a wooden handle or a large wooden spoon will keep the stirring process cool.) If necessary, use the back of a spoon to smooth out any lumps of flour. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Cook, STIRRING OR WHISKING CONSTANTLY, until the roux is a deep mahogany color—about 30 to 45 minutes. This process cannot be rushed; deep flavor develops while stirring the roux slowly, and the flour particles must be kept in constant motion or the roux will burn and cannot be used. If small black flecks appear in the roux, it has been burned and must be discarded; a burned roux will impart a bitter and scorched taste. Use extreme caution not to splash any of the roux onto your skin. It’s lethally hot and can cause a serious burn. At this point, either continue with the recipe or immediately transfer the finished roux to a heavy metal bowl to cool and use another time or freeze. If cooling the roux, continue to whisk for about 15 minutes to prevent separation. The roux may be refrigerated for up to a week or frozen for up to 6 months.

If continuing with the recipe, after the roux has reached a deep mahogany color, quickly add the onions, red and green bell pepper, celery, garlic, thyme, bay leaves, basil, ¼ cup of the parsley, oregano and black pepper. Stir to blend into the roux. Continue to cook, stirring, until the vegetables are wilted and the onion is transparent—about 15 minutes. Set aside. While cooking the vegetables in the roux, bring the stock to a full boil in a heavy-bottomed, 10–12-quart soup pot over medium-high heat. When the vegetables are cooked in the roux, add the roux mixture to the boiling stock, all at once, stirring vigorously. Continue to stir until the roux and the vegetables are well blended. Add the gumbo crab bodies, season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper and allow the emerging gumbo to boil for about 15 minutes. Skim off any fat that rises to the surface and discard. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 1 hour—stirring often. Then stir in the okra, shrimp and crabmeat. Cook for an additional 15 minutes, then add the oysters and their liquor. Cook just until the oysters begin to curl around the edges—about 10 minutes. Do not overcook.

To serve the gumbo, place a portion of the cooked rice (about ½ cup) in the bottom of individual deep rimmed soup plates.

Ladle the gumbo over the rice in each bowl—making sure to get a crab body in each bowl. (They’re traditionally pulled apart and sucked after eating the gumbo–their flavor is quite extraordinary!) Pass the filé powder to be stirred into the gumbo (about a heaping teaspoon per bowl) and garnish with a scattering of green onions and the rest of the parsley. Pass the Tabasco or Crystal Hot Sauce for additional pizzazz. Enjoy!

Honest-to-Goodness Good Texas Cooking 2002 Manor Rd. Austin, TX 78722 – (512) 479-5006 OPEN M-F: 11AM – 10PM, S&S: 8AM – 10PM W W W.HOOVERSCOOKING.COM

World-class beer. Honky-tonk. And real food.

theabgb.com

Proudly serving Texas raised Beef, Grassfed-Longhorn and Bison burgers.

807 W. 6TH STREET 512-472-0693

HutsFrankandAngies.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

57

cooking BASICS

BULGOGI SSAM

BY CA RO L I N E H A H M • P H OTO G R A P H Y BY L E A H OV E RST R E E T

I

t’s fascinating to me how Korean food has slowly made its

“Oh my god! What is that smell?” My brother coolly respond-

way into the mainstream American palate. I remember grow-

ed, “Oh...that’s kimchi,” like it was no big deal. As for me, I

ing up on Long Island, in a predominantly white, middle-class

chose the cowardly road and attempted to shield my non-Ko-

neighborhood, and being one of the only Asian kids in my entire

rean friends from anything different as I tried to assimilate as

school. I used to be embarrassed to have my non-Korean friends

quickly as possible. I distinctly remember begging my mom to

come over in the event that my grandmother was making some-

buy Wonder bread, Hellmann’s mayonnaise and Oscar Meyer

thing “weird” or “different” and possibly offensive to the noses

bologna so that she could make me a sandwich every day in-

of my friends—such as the smell of kimchi (which I like to refer

stead of a bento box of rice, bulgogi (grilled marinated meat)

to as Korean sauerkraut) or doenjang, a kind of fermented bean

and kimchi. Now, many years later, I’m proud to introduce my

paste like miso that’s used in soups, stews and sauces.

friends to the tastes, smells, traditions and experiences of Ko-

I’ll never forget the time one of my older brother’s friends opened the refrigerator, immediately shut it and exclaimed, 58

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

rean culture, and I’m grateful to my mother and grandmother for instilling in me a love for gardening and cooking.

BULGOGI SSAM (MEAT LETTUCE WRAPS) Serves 4 When I first moved to Austin in 2013, it didn’t take long to realize there was no place to go when I had a craving for my grandmother’s cooking, or even a place to get simple Korean barbecue that was accessible to non-Korean speakers. But one conversation with Chef Todd Duplechan, owner of Lenoir and Métier, led to a an opportunity for me to introduce my family’s cuisine via a Korean pop-up at Lenoir in the summer of 2014. I included galbi ssam (marinated short rib lettuce wraps) as the final course. In today’s recipe, I’m using the same marinade as I did for the ribs but with a different cut of meat. Bulgogi literally translates to “fire meat.”

Ideally, you would grill the meat over charcoal or on a gas grill, but you can easily sauté it in a pan, too.

8 garlic cloves, peeled 1 thumb-size knob of ginger, peeled 1 c. pureed or grated fruit (I prefer Asian pear but you can use Fuji apple, kiwi, pineapple, etc. When using pineapple, be careful not to leave the meat in the marinade for more than an hour because the meat will begin to disintegrate. I’ve made that mistake once and never again!)

1 c. soy sauce 2 T. toasted sesame oil 4 T. brown sugar 2 t. gochugaru (Korean red pepper; you can substitute ground black pepper or cayenne pepper, to taste) ½ yellow onion, cut into slivers

2 bunches scallions, chopped 2 lb. meat (I prefer either rib-eye or hanger steak—which can be purchased at Salt & Time—sliced thinly by the butcher or by hand. If doing it yourself, it helps to slightly freeze the meat before slicing to achieve thin slices.)

Whole-leaf red Bibb lettuce, washed Cooked rice, for serving Ssamjang (spicy Korean sauce available at Asian markets), for serving Perilla leaves (available at Springdale Farm from my grandmother’s seeds, or you can substitute shiso leaves available at most Asian markets), for serving Kimchi, for serving Pickled garlic and/or pickled garlic scapes (homemade or purchased at an Asian market) Grate (using a Microplane) or finely chop the garlic, ginger and Asian pear and place in a bowl. Add the soy sauce, sesame oil, brown sugar and gochugaru and mix well. Add the onion and scallions to the bowl. Add the meat slices and incorporate into the marinade. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 12, depending on the thickness of the meat. Remove the meat from the marinade and grill over hot coals or on a gas grill for a few minutes per side. Serve with the lettuce leaves, rice, hot sauce, perilla leaves, kimchi and pickled garlic or scapes to make individual wraps.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

59

at HOME

WEIGE KNIVES

BY CLAIRE CELLA • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JESUS HIDALGO

T

ravis Weige is accustomed to speed—he used to work as a media sales executive and was inundated daily by a deluge of digital communication and contact. These

influences show, too: Words tumble out of his mouth rapidly, fervently and pragmatically, with practiced ease. It might seem surprising, then, that he’s since renounced his successful fast-paced career for a craft where one project can take not only hours but days to complete. Instead of a computer screen, Weige now stares into the orange glow of a kiln.

It was at the end of 2011 that Weige and his wife bought their home in Sunset Valley, and shortly after when Weige began making his first knives as a rather haphazard hobby in his new garage—anything to distract him from the recurring grind of computers, conference calls and commutes. After cobbling together a used grinder, band saw and sander from within the ramshackle remnants of his father’s old barn, Weige began putting them to use—drawing on what he learned from “the University of YouTube,” he says, and “every book on knife-making there is.” While making his fifth or sixth knife, the well-worn sander caught on fire—forcing Weige to douse the whole thing with a bucket of cold water. But it would take more than a few measly flames to douse Weige’s interest in knife-making. In fact, the setback only seemed to solidify his enthusiasm, and he decided to fully invest in the hobby—purchasing a grinder from knife-master and mentor John Stout.

It took Weige almost a year to make a knife worth selling or putting his name on. His standards are fiercely exacting, and he’s compelled to create quality, which is why it still takes him a relatively long time to make a knife—about three days, he says—in a society increasingly accustomed to instant gratification. However, the precious time Weige spends with each knife, and the patience exhibited by each customer, are crucial components to the production of the sleek, solid and stunning tool Weige hands over in the end.

“I would recognize any knife I’ve ever made, down to every little detail,” Weige says. “They’re like children—they all have tales and travels. They start here in the shop, each one

60

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

“Making knives...it’s about immortality almost, and knowing this knife is going to outlive me…it’s part of your legacy as a person to do something that’s going to outlive you, I think.” —Travis Weige

is different and each one will go on to make its own journey

Weige can begin building his or her knife—teasing out the in-

when it leaves. Making knives...it’s about immortality almost,

formation he needs to create a truly customized experience.

and knowing this knife is going to outlive me—not that I’m

He takes measurements and molds of customers’ hands and

obsessed with immortality, but it’s part of your legacy as a per-

even asks for details about what type of cutting board they

son to do something that’s going to outlive you, I think.”

use, what type of knives they use, what they ate last night,

And while each knife will leave Weige’s garage workshop

in addition to preferences for size, shape and type. Currently,

with a small stamp of his own personality, it truly is more

Weige makes predominantly chef’s knives in varying lengths

about the relationship the knife will have with its new owner.

and styles, but he also makes paring, slicing, boning, utility

Weige takes avowed pride in the fact that he makes kitchen

and the Japanese Santoku and Nakiri knives—essentially, any

knives—knives that belong in the heart of a home—and that

classic kitchen knife a customer might desire.

they can withstand religious use every day.

It takes about an hour or more with each customer before

Weige’s blades are made from Crucible Industries’ stainless steel, “the oldest steel manufacturing company in the

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

61

country,” he says. And the wood he uses for the handles is sourced from myriad places—his backyard, salvaged grandfather clocks, burls of healing trees and “even the side of the road,” he says with a laugh. He personally stabilizes each piece of wood—removing the moisture and infusing it with resin for strength and resilience.

Shaping the wooden handle, one of the last steps of the creation process besides finally sharpening the blade, is Weige’s favorite.

“When you’re cleaning up the handle, that’s when the knife starts to come alive,” he says. “You’ve been working on it for three or so days and you don’t know, and never know, how it’s going to look until that point. It’s like finally seeing the bride.”

Personally, Weige is a fan of using local woods such as Texas pecan and Texas mesquite when he can, but he also uses maple, cocobolo, oak, ironwood and walnut, among others. Beyond type,

weekly, local prix-fixe menu • family owned

the most important characteristics for the wood are contrast and marbling, he says. Compared to the typical black laminated plastic handles most people are used to, Weige’s handles resemble small kaleidoscopes imbued with the individual hues and patterns of natural wood grains. And, as jewels to these crowns, he adds stainless steel and copper mosaic pins handmade by Sally Martin, a like-minded artisan from Oregon.

Customers eager to get their hands on their own Weige knife will have to join the list—the year-and-a-half-long waiting list, that is. Weige’s assistant, Dirk Michener, is helping to whittle down the

1807 South First Street 512-215-9778 lenoirrestaurant.com

long wait, and there are plans to train another apprentice, but while on the list, you’ll be in good company among Chefs Paul Qui, Bryce Gilmore and Aaron Morris. Renowned chefs and restaurateurs, such as Jack Gilmore and Chris TenEyck (Jack Allen’s Kitchen), Hoover Alexander (Hoover’s Cooking), Skeeter Miller (County Line), Rob Lippincott (Güero’s), Jesse Herman (Sway) and Todd Duplechan (Lenoir) have already waited their turn and now wield Weige knives in their restaurant kitchens.

“This is not a fast thing; this is a slow thing,” Weige stresses to each of his customers, and he asks that, after they give him their deposit, they forget about him. “When you hear from me again,” he says, “you’re going to be extremely happy.”

EXPERIENCE A LITTLE BIT OF SPAIN HERE IN AUSTIN

Visit weigeknives.com for more information.

1500 South Lamar Blvd. ⁄ 512-473-2211

barlataaustin.com

eat well.

11th & lamar 512-482-8868

winkrestaurant.com 62

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

Green Mango Real Estate

Inspiration

We m a k e

buying houses a delicious experience

.   www.g reenmangorealestate.com

Y O U R H O M E S AY S A L O T A B O U T Y O U . W E ’ R E H E R E T O L I S T E N .

Your home is a reflection of you. Ferguson’s product experts are here to listen to every detail of your vision, and we’ll work alongside you and your designer, builder or remodeler to bring it to life.

Schedule a one-on-one consultation with us today.

AUSTIN (512) 445-5140 FERGUSON.COM/SHOWROOMS ©2015 Ferguson Enterprises, Inc.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

63

Experience our NEW Fall Menu

NOW OPEN IN MUELLER ACROSS FROM THE THINKERY

Passionate about quality food & partnering with local farms and businesses.

TROO DESIGNS

Great Food, great drinks go best with

KITCHENS . BATHS . INTERIORS

great company!

5900 W. Slaughter Lane Ste. D 500 512-351-8436

districtaustin.com

64

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

4646 Mueller Blvd. #1050 Austin 78723 512-596-2927

www.TrooDesignsKBI.com

social COOKING

CLUB CROSSROADS

BY LES MCGEHEE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELANIE GRIZZEL

A

long the railroad stops of long ago, you’d often find a café nestled near the tracks. A tiny town, a dirt road, a simple kitchen—all elements that contributed to a crucible of connection, a crossroads at mealtime. Men who would have otherwise never sat down together would do so over

the same fare—whatever the café was serving that day. And even though it was a gathering of men with disparate experiences and lives, a shared meal offered just enough cover to allow any core values that men talk to men about to move around without feeling stared at.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

65

Clockwise from upper left: Austin Men’s Cooking Club members Tim O’Brien, Jacob Kornerup, Scott Carden, Tom Sunstrom (founder), Mark Alexander, Blake Wendel

The men move like a flock of manly culinary birds, and there’s so much natural cooperation that it’s difficult, at first, to tell which members are the veterans.

Flash forward to today—we’re just west of the crossroads of train tracks and nearby Manor Road, and as if a sauté

within forty-eight hours,” he says. That’s when I knew I was on to something.”

pan had projected the Batman beacon onto the cloud bot-

The interested men agreed to meet, cook and have guy

toms over Austin, men of all stripes have convened at the

fun once a month—taking turns creating menus. They’d each

kitchen of the Sustainable Food Center for a working party.

chip in about $30 for the night’s food and drink, and Sunstrom

The rhythm and blues is a little too loud, the beer and wine

would rent a commercial kitchen. “In the old days, I’d bring

are being reviewed (over beer and wine) and free hands are

everything,” he says. “I’d load my truck with pans, plates and

grabbing at pots, pans and cooking plans. Part chef laboratory,

utensils, all the spices…everything, basically. We really scored

part guy’s night out and 100-percent fun dinner party, it’s the

when we started working with the Sustainable Food Center.

Austin Men’s Cooking Club.

It’s such a great organization and a professional kitchen.”

Ringmaster Tom Sunstrom loves these nights. “Philip cre-

Those small, early gatherings slowly evolved into an orga-

ated the menu for tonight. I chose the wines,” he says. “And

nized group of about 30 men (about half of which RSVP on

Tom plays the music too loud,” someone in the group inter-

any given cooking night), and Sunstrom says it’s been fascinat-

jects. “And he isn’t cooking anything yet! He also brought the

ing—even beneficial—to witness the connections made over

knife-sharpening guy out to sharpen all our personal knives!”

the years. “I remember getting great advice from a financial

The men move like a flock of manly culinary birds, and

advisor I was cooking with about sending my kids to college,”

there’s so much natural cooperation that it’s difficult, at first,

he says, the words muffled by the big bite of mortadella pâté

to tell which members are the veterans. “Blake over there…

he’s chewing. (All agree that Dwayne, who owns a limo compa-

he’s a first-timer,” Sunstrom says. Blake, the account manager

ny, rocked the pâté tonight.)

for an online company, has been here all of five minutes and is

Tom tours the cooking stations and describes the menu.

already responsible for an entire menu item. He smiles while

“We’re having chicken saltimbocca, tomato and goat cheese

happily cutting tomatoes with calm precision. “I guess I’m do-

salad, some spaghetti on the side with lemon, garlic, and

ing this right,” he says. “They sure look great.” Meanwhile, vet-

breadcrumbs, some bruschetta brushed with truffle oil…and

eran member Jacob begins working the skillets, and appears to

Mark is making dessert macaroons with dark chocolate and a

be having a little too much fun while occasionally spouting off

peach gelato with Fredericksburg peaches.” Already available

cooking facts to no one in particular. “It’s important to keep

are savory roasted nuts and Dwayne’s mortadella pâté with

this right at a hundred fifty-five degrees!”

crostini.

It was about 12 years ago when all of this began. Sunstrom

There are some mad skills in the room, but not everyone

already loved to cook, and because he was a dad, he and his

is on the same level. A couple of the members are culinary

wife logged plenty of time in the kitchen. Yet, he wanted some-

school graduates, including real estate agent Mark who used

thing more. “My thing was to shop at the markets on Saturday

to cook for Emeril in Las Vegas. “Remember the night Chris

and cook all day Sunday with music on,” he says. “I’d have so

burned his eyebrows off?” he asks, referring to his nearby fel-

much fun doing that—experimenting with dishes and local in-

low member. “He had to go home to his wife who’s an ob-gyn

gredients—but I struggled with the fact that I could spend two

and have her inspect his burnt brows!” Chris smiles but does

days making the perfect coq au vin and, two bites in, the kids

not respond. “AND HE’S A PHYSICIST!” Mark finishes. Ev-

were asking for macaroni and cheese with hot dogs and peas.”

eryone laughs while one member casually passes by another

Then he read an article in the Austin American-Statesman

and salts his dish without asking—a move that, in many envi-

about a German man in the Hill Country who’d organized a

ronments, could cause a hand to get severed. Yet, this group

men’s cooking club. Sunstrom learned that manly cooking

moves and functions as one cohesive body.

clubs are quite common in Germany—many small villag-

Members use the equipment with aplomb and clean as they

es have them, and they even have competitions. He was in-

go; no one gets cut or burned and they’re on schedule. Jacob

trigued, and created a flyer and put it up at some local mar-

pulls the spaghetti and reminds aloud: “One gallon salted to one

kets. “I’m looking for a few good men. Austin Men’s Cooking

pound of spaghetti!” One person juices the lemons while an-

Club. Email me if interested,” it read. “I had thirty-two replies

other prepares the crushed breadcrumbs and basil for garnish.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

67

Meanwhile, a long table is set with flowers, wine and dishes.

Then comes the glorious dinner. “My wife didn’t want me to come tonight. I told her we never cancel once we’ve committed!” says one member. “I think that the amazing leftovers she’ll have in her lunch at work tomorrow will soften her.”

“My wife was glad I left!” says another.

After dinner, knife-sharpening expert John Cruthirds gives a speech. The ensuing conversation is a bizarre nerdfest of knife and chef knowledge mixed with hyperbolic exchanges.

“You gotta make sure you don’t hump down on the choil!”

Cruthirds says with devoted intensity. “Find yourself a hone within reason!” “Yeah…that hone is best,” concurs Jacob.

“Forged knives don’t bend like pressed steel knives,” adds Cruthirds. Then the table breaks into nods, mumbled agreements and a discussion about knife alloys and cutting board preferences (teak is the favorite with its natural antibacterial qualities, followed by bamboo and plastic).

The evening comes to a close and the club members finish clearing the table. “About six years ago, I realized what I love most about this and why I’ve made it a part of my life,” says Sunstrom. “We have tall guys and short guys, we have straight guys and gay guys, we have married, divorced and single guys, we have retired guys and college guys, we have business professionals and stay-at-home dads. Not a month goes by where I don’t just take a step back and watch. Many of these guys would NEVER cross paths in this lifetime. When you witness a married empty-nester, retired commercial pilot in a discussion with a young, gay, college student who’s in a fight with his boyfriend relating to each other while cooking homemade tres leches…you can’t help but think you are on to something pretty damned cool.”

MORTADELLA PÂTÉ Serves 12 1 lb. mortadella with pistachios, chopped into chunks, chilled ¼ c. balsamic vinegar ¼ c. ricotta ½ c. heavy cream 1 T. unsalted butter 4 T. olive oil Salt (already pretty salty) and pepper, to taste Pinch nutmeg ½ c. shelled pistachios Sprig rosemary, for garnish Toasted crostini and assorted crackers, for serving In a food processor, puree the mortadella with all of the ingredients except for the ½ cup of pistachios until the texture is creamy.

Scoop the pâté into a serving bowl, cover and allow to chill in the fridge. Toast the pistachios on a small cookie sheet at 350° until lightly toasted—about 5 to 10 minutes. (Coat with a little olive oil and salt beforehand, if desired.) Let the pistachios cool for a few minutes, then toss them across the top of the pâté. Garnish with the rosemary for color and serve with the crostini and crackers.

68

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

what we’re DRINKING

WITH COOKS

BY T E R RY T H O M PSO N -A N D E RSO N • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY W H I T N EY M A RT I N

A

s with every issue of “Cooks,” we hope you discover some exciting new recipes to try. But what to drink and serve with them? We’ve put together a few pairing suggestions

below to make the experimenting, supping and sipping experience a little easier.

Jim Spencer’s tomato soup (page 77). This quick and easy, but hearty and delicious, soup needs a wine that’s high in acid to stand up to the tomatoes, but also one that’s not overly tannic. Opt for a lighter red such as a sangiovese. Winemaker Kim McPherson has been working with this Tuscan classic varietal for more than a decade, and has developed it into an iconic Texas taste. The McPherson Cellars 2013 Sangiovese is a perfect fit.

Will Packwood’s ragú alla Bolognese (page 49). A classic Italian dish deserves to be paired with a classic Italian wine with good acidity to match that of the sauce. Duchman Family Winery’s Montepulciano fits the bill. If a white wine is preferred, the Duchman Vermentino would be a nice match—especially since Packwood uses white wine in the sauce.

Ben Runkle and Natalie Davis’ kibbeh (page 80). Because of Terry Thompson-Anderson’s seafood gumbo (page 55).

the distinct earthy flavors of lamb in kibbeh, a wine with equally

Should it be beer or wine? If you’re on the beer side, try Real

earthy notes is needed. Kiepersol Estates 2011 Syrah, with its nose

Ale Brewing Company’s Brewhouse Brown Ale, a bold, bock-

of dried figs and enticing palate of anise and spice, blueberry,

style beer that can stand up to the gumbo’s complex flavors. For

toast, sweet tobacco, blackberry and dried plum is, hands-down,

those who prefer wine, the selection needs to be as full-bodied

an ideal match.

and enigmatic as the dark, brooding stew. With its chewy characteristics and dark berry nuances, the Perissos Vineyard 2012 Petite Sirah is a perfect choice.

Chief Art Acevedo’s Cuban salad and steak (page 24). Normally, pairing a single wine with a salad and a meaty entrée such as steak poses problems, because the usually acidic salad dressing

Caroline Hahm’s bulgogi (page 59). You might try pairing

demands a high-acid wine while the entrée does not. But since

this intensely flavored Korean dish with Austin Beerworks’

this salad contains no vinegar, the pairing becomes easier. A well-

hearty and palate-refreshing Peacemaker. For wine drinkers, it

grilled, aged rib-eye steak begs for a big, bold red wine, and the

gets a little more challenging. Look for a wine that’s not too

Texas Hills Vineyards 2012 Kick Butt Cab is a superlative

earthy or full-bodied, and avoid wines with heavy tannins.

choice: The supple tannins and rich, jammy berry flavors, along

Llano Estacado 2012 Cellar Reserve Tempranillo is a good

with the undertones of earthy, Texas limestone minerality, will

choice. It’s 79 percent tempranillo and 21 percent Mourvèdre,

make that steak dance. Of course, you could always take Chief

which gives it a gentle, slightly sweet red fruit, medium acid and great

Art’s suggestion and pair this dish with one of his refreshing

balance to support the umami and delicious fattiness of the dish.

mojitos instead.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

69

edible BOOKS

UNPROCESSED A Q&A WITH MEGAN KIMBLE

BY KRISTI WILLIS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVEN MECKLER

F

resh out of graduate school at

through valuable research about the im-

the University of Arizona, Megan

pact of processed food on our bodies and

Kimble was broke, frustrated and

environment; and provides practical ad-

looking for ways to make a difference in

vice on how to make changes to one’s diet.

how she ate. She’d been reading books

While most readers might not sign

about industrial meat production and

up for a butchering class, they can still

farming and how they impact our envi-

gain wisdom from Kimble’s willingness

ronment. She knew she wanted to make

to do so, as well as from the lessons she

changes, but was unclear about which

learned about respecting food and its

direction to go on such a limited budget.

origins. “I’m really grateful for sliced

She’d joined a Community Supported

bread and the conveniences that enable

Agriculture (CSA) program but was still

a busy, modern life,” says Kimble. “I’m

hungry for more ways to change. That’s

not advocating that we go back to this

when she stumbled across the October

idealized moment of doing all the work

Unprocessed challenge issued by the

ourselves, but learning where my food

blog Eating Rules.

comes from and what I was consuming was important.”

The challenge—encouraging people to shun processed food for one month—was

And even though Kimble’s strict ban

already underway when Kimble jumped in

on processed food is over, she still pays

to see if she could do it. “I tried it for a few

careful attention to everything she eats.

“I’m an obsessive ingredient label reader

weeks and it brought up so many issues for me of what makes food processed and where you draw the line,” she

and avoid refined sugar and additives in most foods,” she says.

says. “I decided to do it for a year. I had yo-yo dieted throughout my

“I do make an exception now for sweets. I eat a little chocolate

life and had a weird relationship with food. I wanted to find some-

every day so I mostly buy chocolate from the store, and I recently

thing different.”

went out for ice cream with my sister. It was nice.”

With the start of the new year, Kimble cleaned out the pantry, set her resolve and started her quest. She dove into the challenge with

While on your year-long odyssey, was there anything that you

gusto—learning to make things for herself that most would leave

missed intensely?

to professionals. She started baking her own bread, moved on to

Giving up refined sugar was really hard…all of the things that

making chocolate at home and even made her own salt from Pacif-

refined sugar is in like ice cream, brownies and cookies. I figured

ic Ocean water—a process that raised eyebrows when she used her

out how to “unprocess” most of those things—making brownies

parents’ California kitchen as her laboratory.

with honey, and making my own chocolate—but that was hard. And

Post-challenge, Kimble drew on her journalism background to

throughout the year, there were things like cheddar Chex Mix and

craft the experiences from that year into an insightful new book,

snack foods that I thought about. I used to drink a lot of Diet Coke

“Unprocessed: My City-Dwelling Year of Reclaiming Real Food.”

and soda, and in the middle of summer, I really wanted a Diet Coke,

Part memoir, part instruction manual, the book guides readers

but then I had it after my year and it didn’t taste good to me. It tasted

through the different hurdles Kimble faced on her journey; educates

like chemicals. A year was long enough to change how things tasted.

70

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

What was your biggest challenge besides the refined sugar?

The social aspect of eating out in the world was a big challenge. Food has such strong social connectors, and I never really solved that problem. It would be someone’s birthday at the office and I would decide that I was going to sing “Happy Birthday,” but I wasn’t going to eat the cake. There are so many ways that food permeates our lives that it required constant vigilance to refrain from those moments, and the process of explaining to people who weren’t necessarily close friends why I wasn’t participating—it was awkward to explain why I have this weird eating pattern.

During the year, was there any food that you had previously disliked but then changed your mind about?

Edis Chocolates Handcrafted Chocolate Truffles & Fine Desserts Fair Trade Chocolate & Natural Ingredients

3808 Spicewood Springs Rd.

512-795-9285

edischocolates.com

There isn’t any particular food, but I started to have a new appreciation for simpler foods. I became more attuned to flavors like really good cheese or really good bread and learned how to make simpler meals and have them be delicious. Since I wasn’t eating all the crazy stuff that is in processed food, I was also more liberal with things like cream, cheese and butter—the delicious fatty foods that I had tried to eat sparingly—and my meals were so much more rich and satisfying.

Was there any unexpected learning for you?

With every food, I learned something new about how we process it and how it affects us. I struggled with figuring out additives— where they come from and what they do to our bodies. I learned that there are more than 10,000 additives in our food, and the FDA has only regulated half of them. That’s a terrifying statistic. If the FDA can’t keep up with it, how can I as an individual consumer keep up?

Were there any tools that you used to help you decipher the additives?

Yes—the Center for Science in the Public Interest has an app called Chemical Cuisine that is very helpful. Part of the bargain you have to strike is: When is a certain additive okay (because it’s hard to completely remove them 100 percent of the time)? This app

GROCERY • ESPRESSO • DELI WINE & BEER TO STAY OR GO HOUSE MADE SPECIALTIES GRAB & GO

is helpful because it ranks each additive based on how it’s used, where it comes from and the studies that show whether it is harmful for our bodies. Understanding where something falls on that spectrum is very useful.

3RD & LAVACA • 4TH & NUECES 6TH & CONGRESS • 3RD & BRAZOS 51 RAINEY STREET WWW.ROYALBLUEGROCERY.COM

Do you still take on some big projects like making your own salt?

I don’t make my own salt, but I do occasionally make my own chocolate because I like kitchen projects. It’s fun to make bread, pizza dough and pasta. I still can tomatoes every summer, but some of the projects I wanted to know how to do—like making mead— didn’t turn out that good, and there are people who do that better than I could.

909 West Mary St. 512-494-6436

thai-fresh.com coffee : wine bar : gluten-free bakery : cooking classes

For someone who wants to start eating less processed food, but maybe doesn’t have the time to dedicate to it like you did, where would you advise them to start?

Read the ingredients label on every package of food that you buy. Once you realize what you are eating, it’s almost impossible to not buy different things—it’s that simple act of awareness.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

71

UNPROCESS YOURSELF: SUGAR From “Unprocessed” by Megan Kimble. Copyright © 2015 by Megan Kimble.

Reprinted by permission of William Morrow, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. f you’re going to eat something sweet, make it count. The fact that

I

though I love the portability of a prepackaged bar when I find myself

sugar is really not good for us will not make me stop eating it—life

hungry in a processed-only place.

much more careful about how and when I let sweetness into my life.

liquid, added and in bulk—remember: Sugar is sugar. There are import-

is too short to live without sweetness. Rather, knowing this makes me Check savory foods like mustard or marinara sauce to make sure they don’t have added sugars. Don’t buy presweetened foods, like

When faced with the many varieties of sugar—both granulated and ant differences between types of sugar, but what’s more important than the specifics of each kind is quantity. Less sugar is better sugar.

honey-flavored yogurt or maple-cinnamon oatmeal. Instead, buy

To make chocolate, you’ll need: cacao powder or paste and cacao

plain or un-flavored foods and add the sweetness in yourself. You

butter; a sweetener, like agave or honey; and salt and vanilla extract.

will, I promise, add less than what would have been added for you

Measure two units of cacao powder or paste for every one of cacao

(and skip a bunch of other artificial ingredients). Marinara sauces

butter. Cut the cacao butter into small pieces, which will help it melt

and salad dressings often contain added sugars—whole-wheat bread

evenly. The best way to melt the cacao butter is in a double boiler; if

is another common culprit, as is, unbelievably, deli meat. I’ve seen

you don’t have one, you can balance a glass or aluminum bowl on top

breakfast cereals filled with as many as five kinds of sugar—if you

of a saucepot of hot (not boiling) water. The butter will melt pretty

want a little sweetness to start your morning, add it yourself. Food

quickly; as soon as it becomes liquid, add the powder and whisk until

for Life sells unsweetened granola; so do most natural food stores.

smooth—the mixture should have the consistency of chocolate sauce.

For sweet treats, look for foods that have been sweetened with

Take the bowl off the heat and let the chocolate sauce cool for about

natural sweeteners like honey, maple syrup, molasses, or dates, all of

half an hour, or until it reaches room temperature. Reheat the water

which come packed with good nutrients and are often used in much

and warm the liquid chocolate while stirring; add a tablespoon or two

smaller quantities. Lärabars are my favorite sweet snack, made with

of honey, a pinch of salt, and a dash of vanilla extract. After a minute

some variation of dates, dried fruit, and nuts. You can make home-

or two—while the liquid is still shiny—remove from heat and pour

made Lärabars with a food processor and the same ingredients, al-

into a mold; leave it in the refrigerator for at least an hour to set.

“...a fine embodiment of innovative agricultural and architectural preservation.” ~ edible Austin

lospoblanos.com

72

COOKS 2015

Farm Shop • Dining • Lavender Fields • Historic Inn • Organic Farm • Weddings EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

edible BEAUTY

NATURAL SKIN CARE

BY E L I Z A B E T H W I N S LOW • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY J E N N A N O RT H C U T T

T

he skin you’re in is the only skin you’ve got. It only

high levels of polyphenols found in olive oil act as antioxidants

makes sense, then, to take good care of it—it has to

that not only help prevent damage done by the sun but also

last a lifetime. As a protective barrier, our skin can

repair and renew skin that has been overexposed to the sun.”

be occasionally subjected to harsh environmental conditions.

Finding the balance between soaking in essential vitamin D

During the warmer months, this can mean sunburns from high

and not overexposing skin to the point of sunburn is one of the

ultraviolet (UV) exposure and breakouts from sweat, grime and

greatest challenges of the season. Nicholson’s advice: “If you

blocked pores. And while it’s true that skin is a barrier, it’s also

do overexpose, marinate in olive oil! The polyphenols in olive

permeable, so treating summer’s host of skin challenges with

oil will speed your recovery while feeding and nourishing your

chemicals or questionable ingredients isn’t the best plan. Luck-

skin.” Another favorite nourishing oil is avocado oil, which is

ily for us, we have several natural skin care experts in our com-

rich in omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A, D and E. With its

munity, ready to guide us through taking the best possible care

thin consistency, avocado oil penetrates the skin, but it’s also

of one of our biggest assets.

thick enough to serve as a protective barrier—much like a lo-

Mariska Nicholson’s Texas olive oil-based skin care line

tion—locking in moisture. Apply either oil just like a lotion, and

Olive + M grew out of the desire for an unadulterated, nutri-

use the good stuff—refined oils don’t contain the nutrients that

ent-rich and all-natural skin care solution for herself. Several

extra-virgin oils do.

years ago, she began mixing oil blends in her own kitchen that,

At People’s Pharmacy, Julia Strickler, ND also advises cus-

once applied, made her skin radiant and glowing. Soon, friends

tomers to nourish skin—with a focus on the inside first. “Make

and family began commenting on her youthful-looking skin and

sure to eat foods high in antioxidants and healthy oils,” she says.

asked her to make some of the magic potions for them. Nich-

“And hydrate! Add trace minerals to your water if you’ve been

olson is especially interested in the ways olive oil rejuvenates

sweating or drinking [alcohol].” She also recommends eating

and heals the skin. “We tend to spend more time outside in the

foods rich in vitamin C and collagen and taking high-quality

summer and consequently in the sun,” she says. “Free radicals

supplements, including minerals such as zinc and selenium and

produced by the sunlight cause damage to the skin cells. The

antioxidants such as CoQ10, resveratrol and astraxanthin.

Summer’s high UV exposure is of special concern to Strickler.

she says. Make it easier on your skin by minimizing drying

“These rays from the sun are specifically what trigger sunburns

soaps and long hot showers. Again, load up on vitamin C and

and premature aging,” she says. “Excessive exposure to ultravi-

antioxidants. When damage happens, she advocates single-in-

olet rays can lead to damaged skin cells including the epitheli-

gredient home remedies to help support skin. Keep it simple,

al DNA. The classic symptoms of sunburn, including redness,

she says. “Apply black tea topically for its astringent skin-tight-

swelling and pain, result from the prostaglandins and cytokines

ening purposes to help stressed skin, or cucumbers for rehy-

trying to heal from the acute toxic exposure to the UV rays.

drating tissues—especially the delicate tissues around the eyes.

Eventually, the body begins to heal and sheds the damaged skin

Vinegar or mustard can take the sting out of a sunburn. The key,

when your skin peels after the sunburn.”

again, is don’t overdo it and plan ahead!”

Strickler’s favorite remedy for sunburn? Our good old hero,

Local author and natural skin care advocate Mary Helen

aloe vera. “Try to use a fresh leaf when possible (simply slice

Leonard has written the book on simple, natural-ingredi-

open and rub over affected areas) or the most pure form you

ent remedies. She’s been writing about DIY living for more

can purchase,” she advises. “I keep some sliced aloe leaves

than 10 years on her personal blog, Mary Makes Good, and

ready in the freezer to help with my occasional kitchen burn,

on The Natural Beauty Workshop, an online publication of

but this is also great for sunburns.” Strickler also likes a product

natural skin care ingredient supplier From Nature With Love.

called Miracle Mist. “It’s another personal favorite for topical

Her recently published book, “The Natural Beauty Solution,”

use, as it was designed to help with burn repair by addressing

is a step-by-step guide to replacing the commercial skin- and

the pH and microbial balance of the skin.”

hair-care products in our routine with natural alternatives and

Breakouts from sweat, grime and over-the-counter skin

easy homemade recipes. Like Strickler, Leonard also believes

products are also a focus for the folks Strickler advises. Unfor-

in keeping things as simple as possible—not only for health

tunately, the only real solution is to avoid heat and sun as much

reasons, but also for the sake of economy and convenience.

as possible. Strickler says with a laugh, “Personally I get a rash

An avid cook, she approaches caring for her skin and hair with

from nearly every commercially available sunscreen, so I’m a

the same values she applies to what she does in the kitchen:

huge advocate of covering up!” Above all, hydrate and moisturize,

quality over complexity. For example, a favorite everyday

CILANTRO YOGURT MASK Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard This creamy mixture of cooling cilantro and soothing cucumber can help to calm upset skin. Yogurt acts as a gentle cleanser by exfoliating the skin with natural lactic acid. Honey adds a touch of moisturizing benefit to the mix, making this a great treat for skin that has been dried out or irritated. ¼ c. plain Greek yogurt ¼ c. chopped fresh cilantro ¹/8 c. seeded and diced cucumber 1 t. honey Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and pulse until smooth. Place the mixture inside a cheesecloth-lined sieve and set over a bowl to strain for at least an hour or overnight. It should thicken after sitting for a while. Spread the mixture over your face—avoiding sensitive areas such as your eyes and nostrils.

74

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

facial scrub is made from nothing but rice flour and water.

Leonard notes that summer’s sudden changes in temperature and humidity can make it challenging to keep skin balanced.

“Add a little extra sweat and grime from outdoor activities,” she says, “and you can see why summer breakouts are so common.

Just washing your face a little more often can make a big difference, especially after exercising. If dry skin is a problem, try adding a drop of honey to your usual toner or moisturizer.” Honey, available from local producers in pure form, is a natural humectant and can actually draw moisture to the skin. Locking in moisture is helpful during hot weather when the air is constantly drying out skin. Leonard also advocates the healing properties of the aloe vera plant. “The pure gel [also labeled “juice”] can be bought by the bottle or pressed from fresh leaves. I also love using puréed cucumber, cilantro and plain yogurt to make fresh masks if my skin gets too unhappy.”

BLACK TEA POULTICE Courtesy of Julia Strickler, ND Brew a cup of black tea by pouring heated water over a black tea bag or loose-leaf tea for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the tea bag or leaves, moisten a cotton ball in the tea and dab gently over skin—the tannins and astringent properties will help to tighten pores. You can also put the tea into a spray bottle and gently spritz the tea over the face and neck. The tea bags can also be applied to the eye areas as a way to help combat puffy eyes.

And of course, drink the tea! It’s high in flavonoids and antioxidants, including polyphenols.

FRESH ALOE AND SHEA BODY CREAM Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard

VINEGAR OR MUSTARD COMPRESS Courtesy of Dr. Julia Strickler, ND Using white vinegar compresses or spritzes can take the sting out of sunburns for some people and also offers antimicrobial benefits. Dilute standard white vinegar (5 percent acetic acid) in a 1-to-1 ratio with pure water, wet a cloth in the mixture then apply directly to sunburned areas. Alternatively, spritz the mixture using a spray bottle with a mister setting. Use caution if there are any cuts or open blisters—vinegar STINGS! Leave the vinegar on for 10 to 15 minutes and then feel free to wash it off to avoid the vinegar smell. Apply full-strength, regular yellow mustard for the same benefits as the vinegar, but use caution: There can still be a bit of sting if there are open areas of skin. If there are any skin cuts or wounds, using full-strength milk topically in a compress is also an option.

RICE FLOUR AND WATER FACIAL SCRUB Courtesy of Mary Helen Leonard Try this easy recipe for an everyday facial scrub. Combine 1 tablespoon rice flour with 1 to 3 teaspoons water—adding more water as necessary to achieve a loose paste consistency.

This simple body cream is made by emulsifying cooling aloe vera and moisturizing shea butter. This recipe makes enough for one generous helping of cream—the perfect amount to moisturize your whole body in one treatment or to spot-treat troublesome patches of dry skin over a couple of days. Adding the optional essential oils of peppermint or chamomile will add a chilly tingle to the cream or give it a soothing anti-inflammatory effect, respectively.

1 t. beeswax (about 5 grams) 1 T. shea butter ¼ t. soy lecithin or pure lanolin 2 T. aloe vera gel/juice ¼ t. honey Pinch sea salt 5 drops peppermint or chamomile essential oil (optional) Combine the beeswax, shea butter and lecithin in a double boiler and heat until fully melted. Stir the ingredients to make sure they’re wellblended. In a second saucepan, heat the aloe vera, honey and salt, and blend well. Remove the wax mixture from the heat and whisk it vigorously as you pour in the hot aloe mixture in a very slow, steady stream.

Continue whisking for several minutes as the cream cools. It should become thick and opaque. Stir in the essential oil, if using. The cream will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days but is best used right away.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

75

76

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

JIM SPENCER

BY RO B I N C H OT Z I N O F F • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

“I

never cook,” says KXAN weather forecaster Jim

pensive, and I guess I’m kind of a cheapskate, so I make it in

Spencer. “It’s embarrassing. I like to blame it on the

big quantities, just like my mom did.”

fact that I’m so busy, or that I don’t like the cleanup

Following a method his mother pioneered 30-some-odd

part, or that I’m on a diet. Actually, I am on a diet. I work out

years ago in the small town of Lindsay, Oklahoma, Spencer

with a trainer and he has me on this warrior diet—it dates

opens three large cans of Campbell’s Family Size Tomato

back to the hunters and gatherers. It sounds completely crazy,

Soup. Elbow macaroni gets thrown into boiling water. “And

but you don’t eat before 6:30 p.m., maybe three days a week.”

here’s the secret,” he says. “Instead of adding a can of water

Okay, but what stops him from cooking himself a late dinner? “Busy,” he says sheepishly. “Really, really busy. Over the

for each can of soup, you fill that can up with milk. Making it into CREAM of tomato soup.”

Memorial Day weekend, I was overwhelmed with emails—it

After stirring the salmon-pink concoction around for a few

topped a thousand. People sending crazy cloud photographs;

minutes, he adds the cooked elbow macaroni. “How much de-

people thanking us for our coverage; people commenting

pends on how you’re feeling about your carbs,” Spencer sug-

that they’d never seen a stretch of weather like that.”

gests. “Do you want a piece of pasta in every bite? How filling

Neither had Spencer. May 2015 saw the worst tornado out-

do you want it to be?” He fixes himself a bowl, salts and pep-

break since 1981 and record-breaking catastrophic flooding in

pers it fastidiously and adds saltines—not in just any old way.

the Hill Country as well as the “all-time historic Shoal Creek

There’s an art to it. “I like to float them whole on the surface

flood.” But even without epic weather, Spencer gets more

and then tap them with a spoon till they go under.”

than his share of calls and emails. He’s been on the air at

Spencer has eaten this soup in bed on a tray with fold-

KXAN for 25 years, and at this point, a lot of Austinites think

able legs, but also on his sofa on an autumn afternoon while

of him as their own personal emissary to the climate gods. “I

watching football with friends, because you don’t have to

get letters asking me to forecast the weather for someone’s

need comforting to appreciate comfort food. “I make enough

daughter’s wedding—in October,” he says with a laugh. “I try

to last for DAYS,” he says. “I will feed it to myself, I will feed

to get back to them and tell them what normal is for that time

it to my friends and they will eat it right up.”

of year. People ask me what to do about mosquitoes. I hear from farmers wondering about rain.”

And why not? Spencer’s fans seem to share his fascination with weather. He credits a childhood in Oklahoma’s “Tornado Alley” as setting his stage. “When that tornado siren went off, we had to get down in the creepy cellar with the spiders and the storm would rage over…it was scary,” he says. “By third grade, though, I was dying to see this tornado we had to run from.”

At age 11—already a seasoned viewer of local TV news— he knew what he wanted to be when he grew up: a weather forecaster in Oklahoma City, the Hollywood of meteorology.

It took him a while to accept Austin as a hometown. “But now I love it,” he says. “The weather is just severe enough.”

Still, this past spring’s weather was over-the-top traumatic, tragic and exhausting for many. Which brings us to the one dish Spencer actually does know how to prepare. “I learned it from my mother,” he says. “She made it any time we were ill, because it’s a kind of comfort food. It’s also inex-

JIM SPENCER’S “SEVERE” WEATHER SOUP Serves 8–10 1 12-oz. bag large elbow macaroni 3 23½-oz. cans condensed tomato soup About 1½ qt. milk Salt and pepper 1 sleeve saltine crackers Fill a stockpot about half full of water and bring to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook to desired tenderness. While it cooks, add the tomato soup to another large pot, followed by three soup-cans-full of milk. Stir well and bring to a simmer. Drain the cooked pasta and add the desired amount to the soup. Heat everything to your satisfaction. Serve with saltines, salt, pepper and, if desired, a big dash of Tabasco or Tapatío Hot Sauce.

For an “extreme makeover” of Spencer’s tomato soup recipe (it’s just a tad more healthy), visit edibleaustin.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

77

78

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

BEN RUNKLE AND NATALIE DAVIS

BY A B BY CA R N EY • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

A

s Natalie Davis kneads out the bottom layer of lamb

ability to hold their scotch. “Natalie’s mother and her aunt

for a baked kibbeh, her husband Ben jokes, “Yes, a

have gotten me incredibly drunk making grape leaves with

true butcher wants to make a dish that’s meat stuffed

them on multiple occasions,” he says with a laugh. “Grape

with more meat. But it’s actually a very delicate dish. One of

leaves, or dolmas, are another classic dish in her family, and

the coolest things about it is that you almost make a pastry or

her aunt has a grapevine in her backyard in Queens. We

crust out of the meat, and you make a batter with the bulgur.”

would go out and pick them when they got nice and tender,

Kibbeh, a traditional dish served at nearly every Lebanese

and boil them in a pressure cooker—going through all those

celebration, is typically made two ways: baked and raw. The

steps instead of using the canned leaves. That’s something

baked version, made from a minced leg of lamb, involves two

that even in the best restaurants is hard to do, and it definite-

layers: sautéed lamb and onion atop lamb and bulgur. Every-

ly inspired how we do things at Salt and Time.”

one has their own style and special way of baking it—some

Natalie designs intricate patterns into the top layer of

like it very crispy while others like it a bit thicker. Much at-

lamb after Ben has prepped all of the meats. She’s true to

tention is given to the top layer, which can be designed sim-

form as a designer, which she attributes to her late grandfa-

ply or with great flair, using the most rudimentary of design

ther. “I can hear him yelling at me,” she says, “like, ‘It’s too

tools: a simple butter knife. Raw kibbeh, on the other hand,

thick over here! Really thin it out!’ He was always very par-

is a seasoned lamb tartare made with the same ingredients as

ticular about how things should be done. He’s the one who

the baked version. The couple is making both versions today.

taught me to shine my shoes, and taught me how to decorate

With all of this beautiful, fresh meat being used, and es-

our Easter cookies.”

pecially in light of the couple’s line of work as owners of the

Ben and Natalie volley back and forth with a natural

popular butcher shop and salumeria Salt & Time, it’s hard to

rhythm as they cook and prepare together—Ben dicing cu-

believe that there was a time when they actually eschewed

cumbers for the accompanying cucumber sauce and check-

meat. As people who give much thought and attention to ev-

ing in to be sure he’s achieved the right thickness; Natalie

ery detail of their lives, they’d cut meat out of their diets

approving and, like any great project manager, consulting

as a way to eat intentionally. But as Ben boils it down, “I’m

with her team, as well. She asks Ben what he thinks of the

too much of a skeptic to stick with anything that long.” And

kibbeh’s thickness. It’s just right, he says. “Thanks, Boo,” she

after closing the long-distance stretch of their relationship

responds.

and moving in together in Oakland, they joined a meat CSA

After putting the dish in the oven, Natalie gets to work on

program. It was the end of their vegan/vegetarianism, and

the raw kibbeh—a dish, she says, that goes quickly at parties

the beginning of a journey into butchery and cooking meat.

and has even had children fighting over it. Ben suggests add-

“We were getting massive amounts of meat and trying to fig-

ing in spices and tasting as you go, and notes that this is a

ure out what the hell to do with all of it,” he says. “We made

good dish for overcoming “the ick factor” of raw meat. “And

some pretty ridiculous meals and lots of sausage.”

if the meat is prepped right,” he adds, “you don’t have to be

Natalie continues to work the kibbeh while sharing stories

expert at cutting it.”

of her family’s cooking traditions. Since her mother is from

With both dishes finished, the pair confesses that this was

Lebanon and her family emigrated to the U.S. in the ’60s, Na-

their first time making kibbeh together. They’re happy it was

talie says she’s cut from a cloth of “boisterous and opinionat-

documented because Natalie jokes that her family won’t be-

ed, but ultimately very caring” Lebanese cooks. “I come from

lieve it otherwise. Now, eating from a shared victory plate,

a family of project managers,” she jokes.

the couple’s focus shifts to other important milestones, such

Ben remembers being impressed early on with her family’s commitment to quality in their cooking, as well as their

as renovations on their South Austin home and the dog they might adopt.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

79

BEN AND NATALIE’S “FIRST-TIME” KIBBEH, TWO WAYS Each dish serves 6–8

Casual French Bistro Since 1982 510 Neches St. 473-2413 LUNCH Tues.–Fri. DINNER Tues.–Sun.

For the cucumber sauce: 1 medium cucumber, peeled, diced 2 c. plain whole-milk yogurt 1 T. minced fresh mint 1 t. salt Mix together all of the ingredients and chill.

www.cheznousaustin.com

5011 BURNET RD.

Craft Cocktails. Family Owned. Plenty of Parking.

OPEN TIL MIDNIGHT EVERY NIGHT

416barandgrille.com

For the baked kibbeh: 1 c. pine nuts or blanched slivered almonds Olive oil 2 white onions, diced 1 lb. ground lamb or beef 2 T. sea salt, divided 2 t. cinnamon, divided 2 t. allspice, divided 2 t. cumin, divided 1 c. bulgur 1¼ lb. boneless leg of lamb (ask your butcher for completely denuded meat, free of fat or sinew) 1 small white onion, chopped To make the baked kibbeh: Toast the nuts in a dry skillet and set aside. Coat a hot skillet with olive oil, add the diced onions and cook until they soften and begin to become translucent. Add the ground meat and a pinch each of the salt, cinnamon, allspice and cumin, then brown for approximately 10 minutes. Add the nuts and continue to cook until the meat is thoroughly cooked. Strain off the fat and set aside. Heat the oven to 350°. Cover the bulgur in water and soak.

Mince the leg of lamb by hand or with a meat grinder. Pour the bulgur into a fine mesh strainer and press out as much water as possible.

Place the minced lamb, bulgur, chopped onion and the rest of the spices into a food processor and blend into a smooth paste. (Do it in batches, if needed.) Adjust the seasoning to taste* (you can taste it raw IF you bought fresh, high-quality lamb), using more seasoning in this mixture than in the sautéed lamb. Coat a 14-inch baking dish with olive oil (a round pan is preferable). Make a thin layer of lamb and bulgur mixture on the bottom and sides of the dish, like a pie crust. Place a layer of the sautéed lamb and onion mixture over the crust. Top with another layer of lamb and bulgur mixture—using your fingers to flatten the meat across the top. Use a butter knife to cut pie slices and then a crosshatch pattern (try to only cut through the top layer). Make a ¼-inch hole in the center with your finger. (This helps it cook evenly and makes it easier to serve.) Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil over the top. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the top is brown and crispy. Serve with the cucumber sauce.

To make the raw kibbeh*: Use approximately 1 cup of the raw lamb and bulgur mixture and add an additional ¼-cup soaked bulgur. Top with a small amount of the sautéed lamb and onion mixture and serve with pita bread, raw scallions and radishes. *Note from the Health Department: Consuming raw or undercooked meats, poultry, seafood, shellfish, or eggs may increase your risk of foodborne illness.

80

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

fire-breathing works of art texasovenco.com | 512 222 OVEN

handcrafted wood-burning ovens & pizza oven kits

GOOD FOOD SMART PEOPLE for

28 locations in Central Texas

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

81

82

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS at home

THE QUESADAS

BY C L A I R E C E L L A • P H OTO G RA P H Y BY K AT E L ESU EU R

T

he Quesada family is prismatic. Not because of the rain-

we need some green in there.’ I’m definitely into making sure

bow-striped skirt that greets me at their front door,

there’s a color balance. I don’t like when things are too much of

worn by galloping younger daughter Marcelle. And not

one color. I’m not a purist.”

because of the productive prowess that emanates from parents

She incorporates this variation into Craftbox Agency—the

Celeste and Adrian, founders of Craftbox Agency and Level One

business she started in 2010 as a platform for doing what she

Studios, respectively. No, this family of four (not including a dog,

does best. Over the past 17 years, Celeste has been producing

two parakeets and three chickens) is prismatic in the way that

momentous events such as the Austin Music Awards and the

they’re multidimensional—at once crisp, clean and polished, but

Austin Film Society’s Texas Film Hall of Fame Awards; orga-

at the same time, courageously colorful, often in refreshingly un-

nizing fundraising galas for nonprofits such as the SIMS Foun-

tethered ways.

dation; and managing marketing strategies for Austin retailers,

As they cook together in their narrow kitchen, they each bring

restaurateurs, musicians and nonprofits. “I named it Craftbox

something to the project. Adrian’s admiration for his family is

because I wanted to be very diverse and to mimic a toolbox that

pronounced, while Celeste’s energy spins around an infatuation

I could pull out any tool that I needed for a specific job or hire

with the taste, texture and smell of spice—from chopped peppers,

the people that I wanted to work with,” she says.

to dashes of hot sauce, to heavy sprinkles of cumin. Their older

Adrian is also a master at diversification of talent. He’s the

daughter Amelie’s perhaps-inherited meticulousness surfaces as

drive behind Level One Studios, the production studio and cre-

she slowly stacks avocado atop perfect triangles of quesadilla.

ative music lab based in their house. Adrian has produced music

And Marcelle’s rompish little spirit bounces around the room and

for David Garza, Daniel Johnston, Suzanna Choffel, and the band

never ceases to be anything but cute.

The Sword, in addition to musical scores for documentaries such

The family’s proud Latin American heritage is ever-present—

as “Inside the Circle.” But this multi-instrumentalist and Gram-

in the eclectic art that fills almost every white space of wall,

my award winner is also renowned for his own philharmonic

in the Spanish they use with fluency and in the piquant dishes

flair in bands such as Spanish Gold, The Echocentrics, Ocote

they’re preparing today. Celeste chops carrots, rainbow chard

Soul Sounds, Grupo Fantasma and most recently, Brownout.

and onions for a traditional Mexican breakfast dish similar to

The Quesadas’ daily menu often mimics Celeste’s and Adrian’s

huevos en rabo de mestiza (poached eggs in tomato-chili sauce),

natural ability to variegate. Main meals are usually vegetable

but the Quesadas don’t really have a name for this dish—they

gumbo, stew or hash, which serve as hearty, colorful scoops to

just know they love it. The idea for it came from their favorite

place atop spaghetti, beans, rice or…“Pizza!” Marcelle enthusi-

breakfast spot, La Estancia (in Laredo) where they often visit

astically chimes in from below, causing everyone in the cozy

extended family. As she chops, Celeste reminisces about the

kitchen to laugh. She and Amelie have since snuck back inside

homemade tortillas and fiery red salsas her grandmother made

and now clutch two brown eggs in their small hands. As the dish

her as a child. Meanwhile, Marcelle and Amelie rummage in the

comes together, Celeste adds the sauce to the sautéed vegeta-

fridge for their own tortillas to take out to the chickens, each

bles, then fills the deep basin of the warmed molcajete, a Mexi-

sneaking little crescent bites from the flat rounds with not-so-

can version of a mortar, used to grind, mix and serve. On top, she

secret giggles.

adds cheese and breaks the fresh eggs into wells.

“I do not make homemade tortillas, though,” Celeste admits

With all of the Quesadas in the kitchen, it’s easy to imagine the

with a laugh. “Because it’s 2015, I’ve got two kids and I’m com-

chaos that can erupt during early weekday hours. As if on cue, Mar-

pletely overbooked.” But she does cook. “I don’t know if I’m a

celle tugs on her mother’s pants pleading for a bowl of edamame,

good cook,” she says, “but I do like to. I don’t really use a cook-

while Amelie insists that she would rather eat quesadillas. Celeste

book though—I’m not very precise.” This is a surprising admis-

and Adrian comply, smiling. “We’re a very normal family of four,”

sion from an accomplished events planner, but she quickly ex-

Celeste says. “There are no pretenses about this.”

plains that it’s all about the colors. “I’ll look at a dish or a group

Family is, after all, the foundation for Celeste’s and Adrian’s

of ingredients and say, ‘Okay, it’s got a lot of red and orange, but

relationship. Although the two met through work 13 years ago EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

83

with careers in this industry who want a family,” Adrian says.

“People were shocked,” Celeste says about her decision to move from New York to Austin to be with Adrian. “I had been working for the BBC. But I felt certain that it wasn’t that I wouldn’t have a career; it was just that, I wanted it all—a family, my own business—and I was just going to go for it. Our little casita Quesada was meant to be.

This is what it was going to be.”

And with that, the dish is ready to come out of the oven—the eggs now ivory and gold, nestled in red and green and orange. Celeste walks the molcajete outside where it now sits atop a table cloaked in white lace, embellished with succulents and graced by not one but three bottles of hot sauce.

Outside, it’s much quieter, but there’s still a soundtrack: the padding of small feet in the wet grass, the clink of utensils, the clucking chickens and the giggles from Marcelle and Amelie. Adrian digs into the dish—noting that the one in Laredo is just a simple red ranchero sauce. “But this one, here—ours—we definitely add more vegetables: carrots, rainbow chard and herbs,” he says, as he scoops and connected through their shared passions for music and cul-

a pile onto Celeste’s plate, the thick crimson sauce spreading over

tural arts, it was their unconventional and unyielding desire for

it, ready to be soaked up by waiting tortillas. “There’s definitely

a family that kept them together. “You don’t always find people

more color here.”

ADRIAN AND CELESTE QUESADA’S “MOLCAJETE DE MANITAS” (The Quesadas decided to name this dish in honor of their daughters’ little hands that always seem to be busy in the kitchen.)

Serves 4–6 Special equipment needed: A molcajete Olive oil to prep the molcajete 1 garlic clove to prep the molcajete Splash of olive oil 2 lb. tomatoes, chopped 1 c. onion, slivered or thinly sliced, divided 1 garlic clove, minced 2 bay leaves 3 T. olive oil 1–2 c. chopped veggies (Celeste’s favorites are kale, spinach, fresh corn, rainbow chard, carrots and bell peppers) Juice of 1 lime Salt, pepper, ancho chili powder, oregano and cumin, to taste ½ c. queso fresco, crumbled 1–2 eggs 1 t. kosher or sea salt, or to taste 1 ripe avocado, sliced and drizzled with a little lemon juice Crème fraîche or sour cream, optional Cilantro, washed and chopped Corn tortillas or toast, optional Lime wedges for serving Heat the oven to 450°. Oil the inside of the molcajete and rub it with the fresh garlic clove. Place it on a cookie sheet so the little legs don’t slip through the oven rack and put it in the oven to warm. In a medium saucepan, sauté the tomatoes, half the onions, the garlic and bay leaves in a splash of olive oil. Cover with water and bring to a boil over me84

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

dium-high heat. Simmer until thoroughly cooked—about 10 minutes.

Take out the bay leaves, place the mixture in a blender and puree until smooth (if you don’t have a blender, don’t worry about it). In a large, heavy-bottomed pan set over medium heat, pour in the oil. Once hot, cook the rest of the onion—stirring now and then, until soft and translucent—about 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the veggies and let them cook for 1 or 2 minutes. Pour in the tomato sauce, add the lime juice, sprinkle in the seasonings, to taste, and let it thicken for about 10 to 12 minutes (you can make this sauce ahead of time and refrigerate it). Carefully add the mixture to the molcajete while it’s still in the oven, sprinkle the cheese on top and then crack in an egg or two. Sprinkle the salt on top of the eggs, then close the oven and let them poach to the desired consistency (cooked whites with runny yolks take about 4 to 5 minutes).

Once it’s ready, tell all children and dogs to get out of the kitchen and carefully pull the molcajete out of the oven. (Y’all, this thing is HOT and stays hot for a while. ¡Cuidate!) Garnish with the ripe avocado slices and crème fraîche or sour cream and fresh cilantro, if desired. Serve with slightly charred tortillas and maybe an extra squeeze of lime.

O ctober 25th, 2015 9am - 4pm at

B arr M ansion

fermentation workshops

all proceeds benefit the Texas Farmers’ Market Farmer Emergency Fund

keynote speaker

*

jennifer McGruther

*

of Nourished kitchen

local vendors culture swap *

Artisan lunch menu *

craft beverages

for tickets & info visit

*

texasfarmersmarket.org

kraut mob presented by

thanks to additional sponsors

FERMENTED RELISHES

BY KATE PAYNE • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ANN SANTANGELO

T

86

hanksgiving and holiday feasts are times to fill plates,

excellent candidate for fermenting projects—and relishes are a

enjoy the company of friends and family and savor fall’s

versatile route to incorporate them into any feast.

arrival with hearty root vegetables and long-roasted fare.

Cranberries have a uniquely American history to boot. In-

But my favorite thing about this time of year is the cranberries.

digenous to North America, they’re native from Wisconsin to

Within the last few years of teaching about the health benefits

Maine—stretching as far south as North Carolina to the Ap-

of fermentation, I’ve become more interested in incorporating

palachian Mountains. Native Americans used them for food,

fermented foods into holiday feasts, for both the benefit of tra-

medicine and to treat food poisoning. They’re full of antioxi-

dition and digestion. Much to my delight, cranberries are an

dants and are thought to help liver function, prevent urinary

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

tract infections, offer anticarcinogenic compounds and vita-

might not be much of a flavor difference with some relish-

min C, fiber and an array of phytonutrients. Add fermentation

es or condiments that are already tart from vinegar, but rest

to the mix and we have a superfood!

assured, live cultures and a nutrient boost have been add-

Lacto-fermentation is the process of adding salt to vegetables and fruits to create a suitable environment for very spe-

ed—tasty reasons why an extra scoop of chutney or relish dolloped on that serving of turkey is a good idea.

cific types of bacteria to grow and thrive and, in turn, slowly acidify the food. Lactobacillus bacteria produces lactic acid—responsible for the tart and sour flavors—when it eats the sugars in the vegetables and fruits (the salt inhibits other microorganisms from causing spoilage). The other type of fermentation that everyone is no doubt familiar with, alcohol, involves adding sugar instead of salt and allowing yeast and other microbes to eat that sugar in a controlled environment to produce beer, wine, mead and other tasty libations.

Lacto-fermented foods help us digest other foods we consume when eaten in small, supplemental quantities at every meal. Fermentation unlocks certain vitamins and minerals that were not accessible to us in the raw materials; for example, B vitamins 1–3, riboflavin, niacin and thiamin levels all increase when a vegetable or fruit is fermented. Additionally, fermented foods offer detoxifying and anticarcinogenic compounds that are the byproducts of bacteria breaking down larger compounds within our food. And then there are the probiotics, the benefits of which are well-documented. Live cultures of good bacteria jumpstart our immune system every time we eat them, which is a really great reason to start fermenting relishes and condiments.

There are two ways to ferment relishes. The first method involves combining all of the raw materials and fermenting them together. The second involves culturing any existing relish or condiment with whey or water kefir. Whey is easy to obtain from store-bought plain yogurt or from the process of making yogurt at home. Whey is rich in minerals, enzymes and live cultures such as lactobacillus, which makes it a great starter culture.

To obtain whey from existing yogurt, set a wire mesh strainer over a glass bowl. Dampen and wring out a piece of fine-weave muslin and place it over the strainer. Pour the contents of a 1-quart container of plain, whole-milk yogurt into the strainer and let it sit for up to an hour. This will produce a thick, Greek-style yogurt that is delicious drizzled with honey (or saved and topped with fermented cranberry relish) and about 1 cup of whey dripped into the bowl below.

Straining for longer will yield a yogurt cheese and even more whey. Whey keeps in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. (My book, “Hip Girl’s Guide to the Kitchen,” offers a list of “10 whey cool things to do with whey” if you want more ideas of how to use it.)

Use the ratio of 1 tablespoon of whey to culture up to 1 cup (8 ounces) of relish, sauce or any condiment. Allow the culturing to take place by leaving the mixture covered at room temperature for 24 hours. Depending on the base item, the culture may make it taste a bit more sour or tart. There

FERMENTED CRANBERRY RELISH Yields 1 pint 1 orange, peeled, seeds removed 1 medium apple, cored ½ c. fresh or frozen cranberries 2 T. coconut palm sugar (may sub brown or regular sugar) 1 t. cinnamon ¼ t. fine sea salt 2 T. whey Combine all of the ingredients except for the whey in a food processor and pulse to chop and combine. Do not puree. Transfer the contents to a pint-size mason jar and stir in the whey. Cap the jar and allow the relish to sit at room temperature for 1 to 3 days.

Check on the jar daily—stirring the mixture with a clean spoon.

Taste the relish and let it continue to ferment if a more sour taste is preferred. Place the finished jar in the refrigerator where it will continue to slowly ferment. Eat within 3 to 6 months for optimal flavor.

CRANBERRY RELISH, TRADITIONAL AND CULTURED Yields 1 pint 1 cinnamon stick, crushed 8 cloves ¼ t. cardamom seeds 2 c. fresh or frozen cranberries 1 c. apple cider vinegar 1 /³ c. sugar 1 /³ c. golden raisins 1 /³ c. dried cranberries 3 T. honey 2 T. whey Create a spice packet by wrapping the cinnamon, cloves and cardamom in a small piece of muslin or securing them inside a muslin tea bag and set aside. Combine the remaining ingredients except for the whey in a heavy-bottomed saucepan or enameled cast-iron pan. Add the spice packet and simmer for 20 to 40 minutes, or until the syrup in the mixture thickens and the bubbles are spaced out, darker and glassy in appearance. Pour the relish into a clean, pint-size mason jar and cool to room temperature. To culture it, add the whey when the mixture is no hotter than 80°. Stir to combine. Cap the jar and allow it to sit at room temperature for 24 hours. Place the jar in the refrigerator where it will keep for up to 6 months. If not culturing, place the jar in the refrigerator after it has cooled sufficiently and follow the storage guideline above.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

87

CAPITAL AREA FOOD BANK

WHAT ORANGE CAN DO

BY HANK PERRET President and CEO of Capital Area Food Bank of Texas

O

range is unique. While the word has

the “Pecan Capital of the World.” The couple

few rhyming buddies in the English

traveled across the country transporting nuts

language, it’s well connected to cui-

until the ’70s, when work began to dwindle and

sines in the kitchen. It’s the color of pumpkin

eventually dried up. Augustina says they chan-

pie—a Thanksgiving must-have. It’s the sweet,

neled other talents and worked from home, but

tangy fruit most consumed by children. And

as she’s aged, she’s battled medical conditions.

it’s the color of squash—a vegetable that can

She suffered her first stroke in the ’80s, a sec-

transform into a variety of savory sidekicks.

ond one in the ’90s (the same year her husband

But to food banks across the nation, or-

passed away) and her third in the early 2000s.

ange is more than the color of some of the food

Relying only on her husband’s life insur-

distributed to an estimated 37 million people

ance and unable to work, Augustina makes and

in need. It’s the campaign color of “Hunger

sells handcrafted blankets for extra income.

Action Month” each September—a month

“The insurance from my husband’s death is

dedicated to bringing awareness to the hunger

what I used to pay the light and water,” she

issue affecting those who are food-insecure.

says. “But sometimes, it’s not enough to even

In Central Texas, the Capital Area Food

buy myself shoes or a dress. I don’t know what

Bank (CAFB) serves 46,000 clients each week with the help of near-

I would do without the food pantry.”

ly 300 partner agencies throughout 21 counties. The face of hunger

Without the San Saba Food Pantry, a CAFB partner agency,

doesn’t just require emergency relief, but resources that can lead to

Augustina would struggle to put food on the table. And she’s just

a sustainable life. The realities of low wages, increased cost of living

one of many who struggle to make ends meet. Unfortunately, until

and dwindling social services support have made food banks one of

we make hunger issues a priority in Central Texas, she won’t be

the main sources of the nourishment hard-working families need.

the last.

Throughout the year, but especially in September, CAFB is at the

Donors, volunteers and advocates make it possible for the food

frontline of advocacy—reminding us that one in six Central Texans

bank to connect more people to healthy food and reduce the health

is at risk for hunger, like Augustina.

risks associated with an insufficient diet. Let’s work together to fo-

Augustina was born and raised in the small town of San Saba, Texas. In the early ’50s and ’60s, she and her late husband made their living harvesting pecans—the given career for many living in

WINNER

2013 Office of Sustainability, City of Austin Resource Recovery Award Top 50 Restaurants - Austin American-Statesman Top Pizzas in Austin - Thrillist.com

Austin-style pizza with a thin crust, local veggies, and homemade sauces.

1401 B ROSEWOOD AVE. 78702

5312 AIRPORT BLVD. STE G 78751

4 67 8 9 0 0 1809-1 W. ANDERSON LN. 78757

cus on a different version of orange this September and make a real difference in the lives of Central Texans.

Visit austinfoodbank.org for more information.

“The Ultimate Nursery for Herbs” Austin Chronicle

Culinary herbs for chefs— and fruit trees, veggies and native plants for gardeners

Sign up for free gardeners tips newsletter at

itsaboutthyme.com

512-280-1192 88

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

11726 Manchaca

GREEN CORN PROJECT

A LITTLE HELP

BY RENEE STUDEBAKER

T

he Green Corn Project (GCP) just got a little greener thanks to a smart idea from longtime volunteers Liz and Wayne Kesterson: The couple suggested adding monarch butterfly

host plants to the nonprofit group’s spring vegetable garden installations. “We’re both avid butterfly gardeners,” says Liz. “And we know the monarchs are in severe decline. So the thought occurred to us that if we could simply add a couple of milkweed seedlings in each garden that Green Corn Project installed or refurbished each season, we could help the monarchs in their migration.”

Milkweed is the monarch caterpillar’s only food source, and of course drawing pollinators to any garden is always a good thing.

The GCP board members were unanimous in their support for the suggestion. “The milkweed project was a great idea,” says the board’s co-president Carla Crownover. “And our garden recipients were very happy to add milkweed to their gardens.”

Grow Locally, Cook Globally 17 th A nnuAl F All F estivAl

Sunday, October 25 Gates open from noon to 3pm Boggy Creek Farm - Food from Austin’s top restaurants - Chef demonstrations - Live music

Teams of volunteers planted about 20 native milkweed seedlings (Asclepias tuberosa) in about 10 gardens during the spring planting season. Funds to pay for the project came from a matching grant from the ExxonMobil Foundation via its Volunteer Involvement Program. (Wayne was a longtime employee of Exxon until he retired in 2001.) “The program encourages current and former Exxon employees to volunteer,” says Liz. “And they’ll send the [nonprofit]

Tickets available online

www.greencornproject.org $35 in advance, $40 at the door, children under 12 free

organization a grant of five hundred dollars for each twenty hours of volunteer work done during a year. We each spent at least twenty hours on GCP projects during the past year, so we applied for, and received, a thousand dollars in grant payments.”

It takes a number of grants like this one every year, along with a core group of dedicated volunteers, to keep the GCP on track with its mission to make organic, homegrown vegetables and herbs more accessible to families and community organizations in low-income areas. And now, with the Kesterson milkweed project, the GCP can also help make organic, homegrown milkweed more accessible to the monarchs who, along with their caterpillars, need it to support the Texas leg of the annual migratory journey from Mexico to the northern United States and Canada.

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS 2015

89

edible MARKETPLACE

Free-range venison, antelope, and wild boar meat Diamond H Ranch Quail Dorper Lamb

Order Online www.brokenarrowranch.com

Sauveur skin care

A small skin studio with a big heart.

Soup, Salads, Sandwiches, Local Beer & Wine

Using only Organic products.

12 of Blanco’s Real Ale beers on tap Mon. - Thur. 10:30 am - 3:30 pm Fri. - Sat. 10:30 am - 9:00 pm & Sunday 10 :00 am - 3:00 pm

featuring local lavender lemonade.

830-833-0202 / www.redbud-cafe.com

®

All Natural, DEET-Free Insect Repellent Made from 100% Essential Oils

Portable Personal Protection Anytime...Anywhere...

Smells Good to You...Tastes Bad to Bugs!

BOOK ONLINE NOW! sauveurskincare.com STORY AND NUTRIFACTS AT: DOSLUNASCHEESE.COM

Boggy Creek Farm MARKET DAYS:

Wednesday and Saturday 8 AM to 1 PM www.boggycreekfarm.com

Visit Bug-Bouncer.com to find a local retailer near you

90

COOKS 2015

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

THE DIRECTORY ARTISANAL FOODS Antonelli’s Cheese Shop We love cut-to-order artisanal cheese and all that goes with it. Order a picnic platter, take a class or host a private guided event. Free tastings daily.

512-531-9610 4220 Duval St. antonellischeese.com

Broken Arrow Ranch We field harvest truly wild animals for high-quality free-range venison, antelope and wild boar meat. Diamond H Ranch Quail from Bandera also available.

800-962-4263 3296 Junction Hwy., Ingram brokenarrowranch.com

Edis Chocolates Handmade chocolate truffles and fine desserts, free of preservatives and additives. Our desserts are made with fair trade chocolate. Excellent gluten-free options.

512-795-9285 3808 Spicewood Springs Rd., Ste 102 edischocolates.com

BAKERIES Blue Note Bakery Blue Note Bakery is Austin’s premier custom cake shop, meticulously creating one-of-akind desserts for your special occasions.

512-797-7367 4201 S. Congress Ave., Ste. 101 bluenotebakery.com

Tiny Pies Tiny Pies are just like grandma made only smaller. Both savory & sweet. We cater, offer corporate gifting ideas, deliver locally & ship nationally.

512-916-0184 5035 Burnet Rd. tinypies.com

BEVERAGES Becker Vineyards Winery, vineyards, and tasting room with wines for tasting and for sale.

Lavender fields, lavender products and annual Lavender Fest.

830-644-2681 464 Becker Farms Rd., Stonewall beckervineyards.com

Brooklyn Brewery Leading the world in beers made in Brooklyn.

718-486-7422 brooklynbrewery.com

Compass Rose Cellars Lone Star Foodservice Lone Star Foodservice is a famly-owned wholesale meat company, whose mission is to source and deliver the finest cuts of natural beef, pork and lamb to tables across Texas.

512-646-6218 1403 E. 6th St. lonestarfood.com

Sweet Ritual Artisanal microcreamery featuring 17 flavors of alternative ice cream - made with cashew, almond and coconut bases. Gluten-free options. Dairy and egg free.

512-666-8346 4500 Duval St. sweetritual.com

Texas Olive Ranch Fresh Texas-grown extra virgin olive oil from Carrizo Springs, infused olive oil and balsamic vinegar at farmers markets in Austin, SA, NB, Houston, Dallas.

877-461-4708 texasoliveranch.com

Experience chef-inspired dining at our intimate winery with breathtaking Hill Country views at Compass Rose Cellars in Hye, TX. Worth the journey.

830-868-7799 1197 Hye-Albert Rd., Hye compassrosecellars.com

High Brew Coffee A low calorie, cold-brew coffee made of the highest quality ingredients in a handy 8 oz. can providing a smooth, bold experience that is Better, Not Bitter™.

512-853-9696 highbrewcoffee.com

Real Ale Brewing Co.

Wedding Oak Winery

Handcrafted beer that is unfiltered, unpasteurized, and only in Texas. Visit us in Blanco for pints, flights, and free tours 11am - 5pm, Thu - Sat. 830-833-2534 realalebrewing.com

Texas winery using 100% Texas grown wine grapes located in a historic 1926 building. Open 7 days a week.

Specializes in Mediterranean varietals.

Great patio.

325-372-4050 316 E. Wallace, San Saba weddingoakwinery.com

Spec’s Wine Spirits and Finer Foods Family-owned since 1962, Spec’s offers expert service and Texas’ largest selection of wines, spirits and beers along with gourmet foods and more!

512-366-8260 4978 W. US Hwy. 290 512-342-6893 10515 N. MoPac Hwy. 512-280-7400 9900 S. I-35 512-263-9981 13015 Shops Pkwy.

512-366-8300 5775 Airport Blvd. specsonline.com

SquareRüt Kava Bar Kava is known to ease anxiety and stress as well as relax your muscles while bringing clarity to your mind.

Come chill out at SquareRüt Kava Bar. 512-382-9293 6000 S. Congress Ave. 512-452-5282 5000 N. Lamar Blvd. squarerut.com

Texas Hills Vineyard Winemaking, wine sales, tasting room, patio for picnics, gifts, award-winning wines, fun-loving staff and a beautiful place to visit.

930-868-2321 878 RR 2766, Johnson City texashillsvineyard.com

Total Wine With a Texas-sized selection, Total Wine & More has a wine to pair with whatever Austin is planning for dinner.

512-892-8763 5601 Brodie Ln., Sunset Valley totalwine.com

Kuhlman Cellars Join us Friday-Sunday for an intimate Sommelier guided wine tasting including chef-designed, small-bite, cuisine custom paired with each wine.

512-920-2675 18421 E. US 290, Stonewall kuhlmancellars.com

Paula’s Texas Spirits Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur & Paula’s Texas Lemon Liqueur—all natural and handmade in Austin since 2006. Available throughout Texas. paulastexasspirits.com

Twin Liquors Family owned and Authentically Austin™ since 1937 - Twin Liquors helps customers match wine and spirits to every occasion. 75 Central Texas locations.

1-855-350-TWIN (8946) 512-451-7400 1000 E. 41st St. #810 512-402-0060 12528 Texas 71, Bee Cave 512-872-4220 210 University Blvd, Ste. 120, Round Rock twinliquors.com

BOOKSELLERS BookPeople Texas’ leading independent bookstore since 1970. Located in the heart of downtown, BookPeople has been voted best bookstore in Austin for over 15 years!

512-472-5050; 603 N. Lamar Blvd. bookpeople.com

University of Texas Press Our mission is to advance and disseminate knowledge through the publication of books and journals and through electronic media.

512-252-3206 utexaspress.com

CATERING AND MEAL DELIVERY Coté Catering Coté Catering is a boutique farm-totable catering company dedicated to creating exciting, fresh cuisine for weddings, parties, and events of all kinds. Our seasonal, sustainable menus will entertain and delight your guests.

512-638-2144 cotecatering.com

Pink Avocado Catering A custom catering company specializing in tailored menus, incredible food and surprisingly personal service.

512-656-4348 401 Sabine St. Ste. B pinkavocadocatering.com

Spoon & Co. Catering It’s our business to delight you with the details, memorable events with mindfully chosen, prepared and presented food and a caring crew!

512-912-6784 spoonadco.com

DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION Texas Oven Co. Experts in designing and building wood-burning ovens. Our handcrafted ovens are fire-breathing works of art. We are also a Forno Bravo pizza oven dealer.

512-222-6836 texasovenco.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM COOKS COOKS2015 2015

91

Get to know the farmers in the Finger Lakes, the artisans of Michiana, the vintners in Vancouver and more as we serve up the best local food stories from the fields and kitchens of edible communities. edible BLUE RIDGE

No. 27 Spring 2013

Austin

®

Celebrating Central Texas food culture, season by season

Number 25 Winter 2015

Member of Edible Communities

edible cape cod

FREE

®

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods, Season by Season

Celebrating the food culture of Central Virginia

!"#$%&'()%*$())+, -./$ %**+%0

With Meat & Cheese, Wendy Mitchell’s Entrepreneurial Avalanche Gains Speed

The

WELLNESS W

!""#$#%"$&'()#*+",+-".$%,/$01#&%"'2 $&,))""$',(*#"'2$&(345!(6"'*2$0'"7!(*#"'

Issue

DRAM BITTERS | 20 STANDOUT COLORADO PRODUCTS | MAKE AHEAD BREAD Member of Edi bl e Communi t i es

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

EDIBLE BLUE RIDGE

edible

no. 43 / winter 2014

Quicks Hole Tavern ● CBI’s Farm Manager Joshua Schiff ● Cape Cod ARK ● R.A. Ribb’s Custom Clam Rakes

edible

Farmers’ Markets, Food and WWI I on Cape Cod ● Off-Shore Lobstering ● Pawpaws ● Cultivating Crustaceans

N O.29 WINTER 2015

EAT. DRINK. THINK.

edible

CAPITAL DISTRICT Eat. Drink. Read. Think.

Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities

WINTER 2015 | 1

Member of Edible Communities Complimentary

Member of Edible Communities

Celebrating local, fresh foods in Dallas, Fort Worth and North Texas—Season by Season

No. 23 Fall 2014

Columbus Issue No. 15

Celebrating Local Foods, Season by Season

®

Fall 2013

Fall Comfort Food OBERLIN • GRANARIES OF MEMORY • INTEGRATION ACRES • STONEFIELD NATURALS SCHMALTZ • THE APPLE • WILLOW BASKETS • OHIO’S HISTORIC BARNS

edible GREEN MOUNTAINS

Member of Edible Communities

edible Front Range

®

Celebrating local Colorado food, farms and cuisine, season by season Summer 2008 Number 2

edible

No. 12 2015

green mountains

The Liquid Assets Issue

THE LIQUID ASSETS ISSUE

LIVE LOCAL * LIVE WELL

WINTER 2015 No. 12

A Dandelion Manifesto King Cheese TransFarming Suburbia Farm-Side Suppers

Goats Galore | Berries | Hillcroft Spice Trail In the Kitchen with MasterChef Christine Ha ediblehouston.com

Member of Edible Communities

Member of Edible Communities

edible LOUISVILLE® & THE BLUEGR ASS REGION

edible

PROUD MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

edible

Issue 30 | February–March 2015 $5.95

Celebrating the Pleasure of Local Food and Beverage

May/June 2015 Issue 1 | $5.95

HOUSTON

celebrating vermont’s local food culture through the seasons

Harvest the Summer

The FruiTs OF The Fall harvesT

edible



LOUISVILLE® & THE BLUEGR ASS REGION

Member of Edible Communities

edibleMEMPHIS

®

marin & wine country Issue 17 Spring 2013

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

Celebrating the Abundance of Local Foods in the Mid-South, Season by Season Spring 2013 Number 25 • $4.99

Issue 30 | February-March 2015

the

DAIRY ISSuE

Cracking Spring HILLBILLY ACRES FARM • GRAVY • SASSY SAUSAGE BIANCA’S FRIDGE • BEER FOR BREAKFAST BACKYARD CHICKENS • SONNY SALT

| Chocolate: A Sweet Tradition & The Sweet Smell of Success | A Cut Above | Pot Luck

edible OTTAWA

edible Nutmeg® Member of Edible Communities

Winter 2012-13 · Celebrating Local Food, Farms, and Community in the Nutmeg State · Number 24

NO. 1 NOVE M BE R/ D E CE M BE R 2014

Member of Edible Communities

OT TAWA E AT. D R I N K . R E A D . T H I N K .

FALL 2014

HO M E F O R T HE HO L I DAYS NO. 1 NOVE M BE R/ D E CE M BE R 2014

A LOCAVORE THANKSGIVING www.EDIBLENUTMEG.com

late summer/early fall 2012

HOTEL DINING: AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

45

NATIONAL CAPITAL REGION • PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY • EASTERN ONTARIO Member of Edible Communities

EO NOV COVER.indd 1

edibleRHODY ®

Celebrating the Bounty of Rhode Island, Season by Season

10/23/14 5:18 PM

edible

RICHMOND

Celebrating Food and Culture in the River City and Surrounding Communities

State Bird Support Local Community, Food & Drink Member of Edible Communities Member Edible Communities

edible

ISSUE 21 • SPRING 2014

Santa Barbara Good food. Good drink. Good read. • No. 24 • Spring 2014

Celebrating the Local Food and Wine Culture of Santa Barbara County

Recycle, reuse, reclaim, rethink

5 YEAR

Anniversary Issue Greg Frey Jr. | Increasing biodiversity | Fixing food waste | Old Harbor Distillery Bioremediation | Chickens as recyclers | Point Loma Farm

The Art of Small Farming Tending Henry The Perfect Salad MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

24

HARVEST 2014

ev

VANCOUVER G WINE COUNTRY E A T. D R I N K . R E A D . T H I N K .

e

®

v

ISSUE THIRTY SEVEN • HIGH SUMMER 2014

HOMEMADE STOCK • GARLIC • HOT COCKTAILS • SEEDS

No. 24, Harvest 2014

Our Food, Our Stories, Our Community

Member of Edible Communities

gateway fruit • fool for summer • wine country roads A MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Subscribe online to any edible magazine by clicking on the “edible PUBLICATIONS” page at www.ediblecommunities.com and select the magazine of your choice.

Stay up to the minute on all things edible with Facebook, Pinterest, Tumblr and Twitter, or listen to our stories come to life on edible Radio—www.edibleradio.com

Troo Designs

Rainwater Revival

We are a local design studio that specializes in creating the home you dream of with our passion in kitchen, bath, and interior design.

512-596-2927 4646 Mueller Blvd., Ste. 1050 troodesignskbi.com

The Rainwater Revival is set for Sat, Nov 7 in Dripping Springs. A FREE event to learn about rainwater harvesting -- speakers, vendors, food, music, fun!

512-479-9426 Dripping Springs Ranch Park & Event Center rainwaterrevival.com

Ferguson Enterprises

Recycling The Past

Dreaming of a new kitchen or bath?

No one helps homeowners bring their vision to life better than Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery.

512-445-5140 700 E. St. Elmo Rd. ferguson.com/content/showrooms

EDUCATION The Natural Epicurean At The Natural Epicurean, we train professional chefs, health coaches, and consumers in plant-based health-supportive culinary techniques.

512-476-2276 1700 S. Lamar Blvd. naturalepicurean.com

EVENTS

Architecture, design and nature all collide at our 12,000 sq. foot sales and event venue in Round Top, TX. Procurers of architectural salvage and oddities.

609-618-7606 1132 N. FM 1291, Round Top recyclingthepast.com

Texas Reds Festival Texas Reds Festival is a two-day festival that celebrates beef and wine!

Held in Historic Downtown Bryan, the festival also features live music & artists.

979-822-4920 texasredsfestival.com

Lone Star Farmers Market Providing fresh fruits, vegetables and quality products. Located at The Shops at the Galleria every Sunday from 10 am–2 pm in the Lowe’s parking lot.

512-924-7503 12611 Shops Pkwy., Ste. 100, Bee Cave lonestarfarmersmarket.com

Dripping with Taste Festival

Sustainable Food Center

All the flavors of Texas in one fun afternoon. Distilled spirits, wines and craft beers, great hill country food, artisans, music, grape stomp & much more!

512-858-4740 1042 Event Center Dr., Dripping Springs drippingwithtaste.com

Gruene Music & Wine Fest This Americana event benefiting the United Way features the best in live Texas music and the best in Texas food and wines at Gruene Hall and The Grapevine.

830-629-5077 1281 Gruene Rd., New Braunfels gruenemusicandwinefest.org

SFC cultivates a healthy community by strengthening the local food system and improving access to nutritious, affordable food.

512-236-0074 400 W. Guadalupe St. 3200 Jones Rd., Sunset Valley 2835 E. Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

4600 Lamar Blvd.

2921 E. 17 St., Bldg C (Office) sustainablefoodcenter.org

Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Come celebrate local food, art and live music every Sunday at our unique East Austin market!

We accept SNAP/WIC. Free parking.

512-553-1832 401 Comal St. hopefarmersmarket.org

Niman Ranch Niman Ranch raises livestock traditionally, humanely and sustainably to bring you the finest tasting meat in the world.

510-808-0330 nimanranch.com

Royalty Pecan Farms A family owned & operated pecan farm featuring a gift shop, event venue and tourist attraction. Great source for fresh Texas pecans, pies, breads and gifts.

979-272-3904 10600 State Hwy 21 E, Caldwell royaltypecans.com

FINANCIAL Capital Farm Credit Capital Farm Credit is your financial lending partner, providing loans for recreational land, home loans and small and large acreage tracts.

512-892-4425 5900 Southwest Pkwy., Ste. 501 512-715-9239 301 W. Polk St., Burnet 979-968-5750 456 N. Jefferson St., La Grange 512-398-3524 1418 S. Colorado St., Lockhart 830-626-6886 426 S. Seguin Ave., New Braunfels capitalfarmcredit.com

GROCERS

FARMS Burg’s Corner

830-693-2815 100 Avenue G., Marble Falls marblefalls.org

Oktoberfest

Gabriel Valley Farms

With over 20 craft beers on hand along with live music and genuine German cuisine, Oktoberfest in La Grange is a must!

Join us October 10th on the Square!

979-968-3017 oktoberfestlagrange.eventbrite.com

We are a wholesale nursery specializing in growing certified organic herb & vegetable plants. Look for our “yellow tag” plants at your favorite nursery.

512-930-0923 gabrielvalleyfarms.com

Selling the highest quality natural and organic products.

512-542-2200 525 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-345-5003 9607 Research Blvd.

512-206-2730 12601 Hill Country Blvd., Bee Cave 512-358-2460 4301 W. William Cannon wholefoodsmarket.com

HEALTH AND BEAUTY Hill Country Memorial Hospital Hill Country Memorial is a nationally recognized nonprofit hospital in Fredericksburg with a reputation of delivering remarkable care.

830-997-4353 1020 S. State Hwy. 16, Fredericksburg 830-428-2345 1580 S. Main St., Ste. 101, Boerne 844-362-7426 1331 Bandera Hwy., Ste. 3, Kerrville 830-693-7942 2511 US Highway 281, Ste. 800, Marble Falls 830-798-1821 204 Gateway N., Ste. B, Marble Falls hillcountrymemorial.org

Peoples Rx Austin’s favorite pharmacy for more than 30 years, Peoples integrates nutrition, supplements and medicine with natural remedies and custom Rx compounding.

512-219-9499 13860 Hwy. 183 N., Ste. C 512-459-9090 4018 N. Lamar Blvd.

512-444-8866 3801 S. Lamar Blvd.

512-327-8877 4201 Westbank Dr. peoplesrx.com

Wiseman Family Practice

Farmhouse Delivery

Fredericksburg peaches. Local fruit and vegetable stand. Peach ice cream. Peach Cider. Over 100 Texas gourmet jarred products. Sweet snacks and gifts.

830-644-2604 15194 E. US Hwy 290, Stonewall burgscorner.com

Marble Falls/Lake LBJ Chamber of Commerce

Whole Foods Market

FARMERS MARKETS

Austin Alfresco is an exclusive food and wine overnight glamping retreat and festival. Located on picturesque Carson Creek Ranch near downtown Austin, TX. 512-758-9076 austinalfresco.com

Austin Alfresco

HOPE Farmers Market at Plaza Saltillo

We bring the farm to your door, offering home or office delivery of local produce, meat, dairy, eggs, and local, artisanal products.

512-529-8569 farmhousedelivery.com

Royal Blue Grocery Downtown Austin’s neighborhood grocer—with dairy, prepared foods, beer and wine, Royal Blue has it all, in a convenient and compact format.

Catering too!

512-499-3993; 247 W. 3rd St. 512-476-5700; 360 Nueces St. 512-469-5888; 609 Congress Ave. 512-386-1617; 301 Brazos St., Ste. 101 512-480-0036; 51 Rainey St. royalbluegrocery.com

Wiseman Family Practice is an integrative medical practice in Austin, Tx that focuses on health education and natural approaches to wellness.

512-345-8970 2500 S. Lakeline Blvd. Ste. 100, Cedar Park 3345 Bee Caves Rd., Ste. 101 3801 S. Lamar Blvd. wisemanfamilypractice.com

HOUSEWARES AND GIFTS Callahan’s General Store Austin’s real general store…hardware to western wear, from feed to seed!

512-385-3452 501 Bastrop Hwy. callahansgeneralstore.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS2015 2015 9393 COOKS

Der Küchen Laden

Natural Gardener

Retail gourmet kitchen shop, featuring cookware, cutlery, bakeware, small electrics, textiles and kitchen gadgets.

830-997-4937 258 E. Main St., Fredericksburg littlechef.com

We are a garden center and teaching facility dedicated to promoting organic time-tested gardening practices.

512-288-6113 8648 Old Bee Caves Rd. naturalgardeneraustin.com

The Herb Bar

LODGING AND TOURISM

Best place to cure what ails you and a healing resource center since 1986. Our Optimal Health Advisers are highly trained, knowledgeable and compassionate.

512-444-6251 200 W. Mary St. theherbbar.com

Slavonk & Hortus Slavonk & Hortus’ unfurling world of terraria is a place to purchase and make terrariums. We make deliveries to the Greater Austin Area and offer custom event design.

888-272-6499 11525 Manchaca Rd. slavonkandhortus.com

Bastrop Culinary District With over 18 restaurants and 11 food related businesses, historic downtown Bastrop has something for every palate. Come visit and experience the food!

512-303-0904 visitbastrop.com

Blanco Chamber of Commerce & Tourism Bureau

LANDSCAPE AND GARDENING

Discover the fun and beauty of the Texas Hill Country in Blanco. We are your source of where to eat, shop, stay and play in Blanco.

830-833-5101 312 Pecan St., Blanco blancochamber.com

Barton Springs Nursery

Brenham/Washington County CVB

Locally grown Texas native plants. Organic pest management. Environmentally friendly soil amendments. Beautiful gifts.

512-328-6655 3601 Bee Caves Rd. bartonspringsnursery.net

Backbone Valley Nursery A destination garden center with over 14 acres of plants, vegetables, orchids, trees, and landscape supplies.

Once you find us you won’t forget us!

830-693-9348 4201 FM 1980, Marble Falls backbonevalleynursery.com

It’s About Thyme Garden Center Top quality culinary herbs for chefs, and native plants for gardeners. A nursery with expert staff and pocket-friendly prices. Free lectures most Sundays.

512-280-1192 11726 Manchaca Rd. itsaboutthyme.com

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center The Wildflower Center is a native plant botanic garden, a university research center and one of the 1,000 places to see before you die.

512-232-0100 4801 La Crosse Ave. wildflower.org

The Great Outdoors Nursery A garden store and so much more!

512-448-2992 2730 S. Congress Ave. gonursery.com

Visit Brenham and Washington County, home of the birthplace of Texas, Washington-on-the-Brazos State historic site. scenic drives, wineries and great lodging.

979-836-3696 115 W. Main St., Brenham visitbrenhamtexas.com

Bullock Texas State History Museum The Bullock Texas State History Museum includes three floors of exhibitions, an IMAX® theater, a 4D special-effects theater, café, and museum store.

512-936-8746 1801 N. Congress Ave. thestoryoftexas.com

Deer Lake Lodge and Spa

Onion Creek Kitchens at Juniper Hills Farm

Austin Beer Garden Brewing Co.

Cooking classes, beautiful dining room venue for private events, hill country cabin rental.

830-833-0910 5818 RR 165, Dripping Springs juniperhillsfarm.com

Locally-sourced lunch and dinner.

Craft brewery, live music, good people, dog friendly, creative community. #beermakesitbetter #ouratx 512-298-2242 1305 W. Oltorf St. theabgb.com

NON-PROFIT

Barlata Tapas Bar

Texas Restaurant Association The advocate, educator and voice of the Texas restaurant industry.

512-457-4100 1400 Lavaca St. restaurantville.com

PHOTOGRAPHY AND ART

Located in the heart of South Lamar. Barlata offers a variety of tapas, paellas, regional Spanish wines and cavas. Come and enjoy a bit of Spain with us.

512 473-2211 1500 S. Lamar Blvd., Ste. 150 barlataaustin.com

Baxters On Main

The Contemporary Austin The Contemporary Austin reflects the spectrum of contemporary art through exhibitions, commissions, education and the collections. The Contemporary aspires to be an essential part of city life.

512-453-5312 700 Congress Ave. 512-458-8191 3809 W. 35th St. thecontemporaryaustin.org

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

Casual fine dining restaurant and catering. We welcome private parties.

Catering for all of your needs.

512-321-3577 919 Main St., Bastrop baxtersonmain.com

Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill Blue Corn Harvest Bar & Grill is a farm-to-table restaurant located in Cedar Park. Locally owned and operated, we keep Cedar Park fresh!

512-528-0889 700 E. Whitestone Blvd., Ste 204, Cedar Park bluecornharvest.com

Austin Label Company Custom Labels up to 10 x 20 on paper, foil, synthetics, multiple adhesives, embossing, hot foil and UV coatings.

Proud members of Go Texan, FTA and TWGGA. 512-302-0204 1610 Dungan Ln. austinlabel.com

Cafe Josie Established in 1997, Cafe Josie strives to provide our guests with a memorable dining experience focusing on using locally sourced ingredients.

512-322-9226 1200 B W. 6th St. cafejosie.com

REAL ESTATE Chez Nous

Green Mango Real Estate

Deer Lake is an organic spa and resort.

We offer a full service spa and salon, juicing classes, yoga, weekend retreats and a respite from every day life.

936-647-1383 10500 Deer Lake Lodge Rd, Montgomery deerlakelodge.com

Boutique firm specializing in Central Austin since 1987, especially the 78704 where we have sold more homes than any other single realtor.

512-923-6648 905 Avondale Rd. greenmangorealestate.com

Los Poblanos Historic Inn & Organic Farm

RESTAURANTS

Los Poblanos is set amongst 25 acres of lavender fields, an organic farm, and lush gardens, with 20 guest rooms and award-winning field-tofork dining.

505-344-9297 4803 Rio Grande Blvd. NW, Los Ranchos de Albuquerque, NM lospoblanos.com

416 Bar & Grille

A casual french bistro, serving Austin since 1982, Chez Nous offers a delectable selection of regional french cuisine and wines in a relaxed, convivial and intimate atmosphere.

512-473-2413 510 Neches St. cheznousaustin.com

District Kitchen + Cocktails Americana Cuisine - Full service restaurant serving dinner until midnight seven days a week. Saturday and Sunday brunch starting at 10 a.m. 416 craft cocktails.

512-206-0540 5011 Burnet Rd. #150 416barandgrille.com

District proudly partners with local farms and businesses to create an eclectic seasonal brunch and dinner menu. The industrial-style decor or the huge tree covered patio makes for a great dining atmosphere.

512-351-8436 5900 W. Slaughter Ln., Ste D500 districtaustin.com

EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM COOKS COOKS2015 2015

95 95

presents

Currently showing on PBS Television Check Your Local Listings or go to ediblefeast.com

www.ediblecommunities.com

East Side Pies

The Leaning Pear Café & Eatery

Thai Fresh

TreeHouse

512-524-0933 1401B Rosewood Ave. 512-454-7437 5312 G Airport Blvd.

512-467-8900 1809-1 W. Anderson Ln. eastsidepies.com

Serving the Texas Hill Country fresh and seasonal favorites using local ingredients.

512-847-7327 111 River Rd., Wimberley leaningpear.com

Thai Fresh offers authentic Thai food, cooking classes, coffee bar, gluten free bakery. We source locally grown and raised ingredients.

512-494-6436 909 W. Mary St. thaifreshaustin.com

At TreeHouse, We specialize in high preference, design, and outdoor solutions and products for the home.

512-861-0712 4477 S. Lamar Blvd. Suite 600 treehouse.co

Finn & Porter Finn & Porter is fresh and modern.

Locally sourced and exquisitely presented. The freshest seafood, steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to offer.

512-493-4900 500 E. 4th St. finnandporteraustin.com

Hoover’s Cooking From scratch Texas home cooking.

Serving comfort food favorites like CFS, meatloaf and southern-style veggies; vegetarian options. BBQ, Sat. and Sun. breakfast.

512 479-5006 2002 Manor Rd. hooverscooking.com

Hut’s Hamburgers An Austin Tradition since 1939 featuring Grassfed Longhorn Beef and bison burgers.

512-472-0693 807 W. 6th St. hutsfrankandangies.com

Jack Allen’s Kitchen Texan in spirit and local in source, Jack Allen’s Kitchen serves up Texas-inspired cuisine, fresh cocktails, cold beers and good times daily.

512-852-8558 7720 W. Hwy. 71 512-215-0372 2500 Hoppe Tr., Round Rock jackallenskitchen.com

Jobell Cafe & Bistro We offer a carefully selected and prepared take on French bistro fare with wonderful wines all served amidst the intimacy and charm of Texas Hill Country.

512-847-5700 16920 Ranch Road 12, Wimberley jobellcafe.com

Lenoir Lenoir is an intimate, family-run restaurant offering a weekly, local prix-fixe menu, great wine and friendly service.

512-215-9778 1807 S. 1st St. lenoirrestaurant.com

North Italia A modern take on the best of traditional Italian cuisine, North is a neighborhood restaurant made for sharing, sipping, and savoring.

512-339-4400 11506 Century Oaks Terrace, Suite 124 northitaliarestaurant.com

Otto’s German Bistro Otto’s offers German-inspired fare in Fredericksburg, Texas. Featuring locally sourced produce and meats. Local beers and wines on tap, handcrafted cocktails.

830-307-3336 316 E. Austin St., Fredericksburg ottosfbg.com

Red Mango - The 704 Red Mango has a variety of nutritious options for the 704 community. Known for all natural frozen yogurt, fresh juice, protein smoothies and more!

512-356-9574 3421 S. Lamar Blvd. facebook.com/redmangoatx

Salt & Time Butcher Shop & Salumeria A full service Butcher Shop and restaurant, 100% locally sourced meat and produce, house made deli meats, charcuterie and salumi.

512-524-1383 1912 E. 7th St. saltandtime.com

Slate Restaurant Mediterranean inspired cuisine serving lunch and dinner and brunch on the weekends.

512-474-2194 612 W. 6th St. slateaustin.com

Urban Mattress ThunderCloud Subs For fresh, fast and healthy, head on over to your neighborhood ThunderCloud Subs, Austin’s original sub shop. Now with 30 locations in Central Texas.

512-479-8805 thundercloud.com

At Urban Mattress North Austin we want you to wake up well. And we know you’re ready to find the best mattress that will help you do just that.

512–354-7579 9901 N. Capital of Texas Hwy, Ste 140 512-298-3043 4001 N. Lamar, Ste 225 urbanmattress.com

The Turtle Restaurant Your destination for food prepared from locally available, seasonal ingredients.

325-646-8200 514 Center Ave., Brownwood theturtlerestaurant.com

Vaudeville & V Supper Club Vaudeville is the foodie Mecca in the Hill Country. You will find under one roof a bistro, wine and gourmet market, a fine dining restaurant and much more!

830-992-3234 230 E. Main, Fredericksburg vaudeville-living.com

Wink Restaurant & Wine Bar The daily menu is based on local artisans. Wink happily embraces omnivores, vegetarians, vegans, pescetarians and special dietary issues.

512-482-8868 1014 N. Lamar Blvd. winkrestaurant.com

SPECIALTY MARKET Buffalo Exchange New & Recycled Fashion. Buy, sell, trade designer wear, basics, vintage, and one-of-a-kind items. You can receive cash or trade for clothing on the spot!

512-480-9922 2904 Guadalupe St. buffaloexchange.com

Make It Sweet Kerbey Lane Cafe

Stella San Jac

Kerbey Lane Cafe is a local Austin haunt serving up tasty, healthy food (mostly) 24/7. Stop by any of our 6 locations for a delicious stack of pancakes!

512-451-1436 kerbeylanecafe.com

Stella San Jac is a Southern-style restaurant offering an eclectic Austin-American menu featuring locally inspired dishes and cocktails.

512-792-5648 310 E. 5th St. stellasanjac.com

At Make It Sweet, you can find tools, supplies and ingredients to make cakes, cookies and candies and learn fun, new techniques in the classes offered.

512-371-3401 9070 Research Blvd. makeitsweet.com EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM EDIBLEAUSTIN.COM

COOKS2015 2015 9797 COOKS

Charles Atlas, Institute for Turbulence Research (from Tornado Warning), 2008. Four-channel synchronized video projection, transparent screen, VMU, sound. Dimensions variable. Running time: 6:00. Installation view, Nobody Gets to See the Wizard. Not Nobody. Not Nohow, Anna Kustera Gallery, New York, 2010. Artwork © Charles Atlas. Courtesy the artist; Luhring Augustine, New York; and Vilma Gold, London. Image courtesy the artist; Luhring Augustine, New York; and Vilma Gold, London. Photograph by Glen Fogel.

ART DE TERROIR

Strange Pilgrims September 27, 2015 – January 24, 2016 Works by fourteen internationally recognized artists across three sites.

On view at the Jones Center, the Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park at Laguna Gloria and the Visual Arts Center at The University of Texas.

Jones Center 700 Congress Avenue Austin, TX 78701 512 453 5312

Betty and Edward Marcus Sculpture Park / Laguna Gloria 3809 West 35th Street Austin, TX 78703 • 512 458 8191

thecontemporaryaustin.org

Visual Arts Center / The University of Texas 2300 Trinity Street Austin, Texas 78712

Mikaila Ulmer Founder and CEO Bee Sweet Lemonade

LOCAL BUSINESSES START SMALL America’s Healthiest Grocery Store® wfm.com/valuesmatter

DOMAIN: Just off Mopac, North of Braker | NORTH: Highway 183 & 360 | DOWNTOWN: 6th & Lamar SOUTH: William Cannon & Mopac | WEST: Hill Country Galleria @wholefoodsATX

© 2015 Whole Foods Market IP, L.P.

We are part of a growing consciousness that’s bigger than food— one that champions what’s good, and the greater good, too.

Where value is inseparable from values.