Edible - San Joaquin Valley - Fall 2021

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Celebrating the bounty of the San Joaquin Valley Fall 2021

THE TASTES OF FALL Member of Edible Communities FALL 2021

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telling the story of how the City eats anD DrinKs • no. 52 sPring 2018

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Bottling liQuiD Courage maKing sPiCeBush fiZZ BiointensiVe orCharDs Boom irish Bars’ fluiD iDentity a Brewery-fermentary-juiCery in one Member of Edible Communities

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COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

Member of Edible Communities No. 39 | Winter 2019

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HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

INLAND NORTHWEST ®

M AU I • No 4 9 • S U M M E R • 2 0 1 9 E AT • G ROW • C O OK • C E L E B R AT E

'tis the season issue 4 | holiday 2020

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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telling the story of how gotham eats • no. 30 july�august ����

Goat Milk Soft SErvE ConSCiEntiouS CatErinG

US $5.00

CatChinG thE BluES

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loCavorE BEEr Member of Edible Communities

SEEdinG ChanGE at rikErS iSland

ANDERSON VALLEY • LOW PROOF SPIRITS • BLACK VINES MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

N O. 45

FLINTER 2019

MEMPHIS FOODFM anD COMMUNITIN TE MIDOUT

FAMILIAR FACES KITCHEN QUARTERBACKS CLASSIC COCKTAILS UNSOLICITED ADVICE

Member of Edible Communities

Issue 45

Spring 2020 MARIN & WINE COUNTRY

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

m a n h at ta n

Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities.

We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada. ediblecommunities.com

E AT. D R I N K . S H O P. L O C A L .

NO.3 | SPRING 2021 | MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

Stay up to the minute on all things edible at: ediblecommunities.com

CONTENTS FALL 2021

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meet the farmer D R E AM Y C R E AM ERY

edible drink 10 | Signature Cocktails

edible endeavors 28 | Q &A with Sweet Thistle Farms

edible entrepreneur 32 | Libelula Restaurant in Fresno

Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery

edible tip 31 | C innamon

Photo courtesy of Libelula Restaurant

featured recipes 16 | G oat Cheese Balls with Honey 26 | Favorite Apple Pie

special section 18 | From Edible Communities

in every issue 0 5 | Editor’s Note 0 6 | Farmers Markets 07 | C ontributors 0 8 | Local & In Season 09 | N ew & Notable

ON THE COVER

Fig, Honey and Goat Cheese plus Cream Cheese Galette Photo by Dakota Jacobi

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D A K O T A LY N N PHOTOGRAPHY

DA KOTA LYNNPHOTOGRA PH Y@ G MA IL .CO m W W W.DA KOTA LYNNPHOTO.COM

If you sell food, you need JD Food JD Food is your local, family-owned, food distributor based right in the agricultural heart of Central California.

(559) 445-1123 JDfood.com

FALL 2021 We’re delighted by the many edible offerings available during fabulous fall – persimmons, pomegranates and pumpkins are just a few of the ingredients that are bringing us great joy this season. Which are your favorite fall flavors?

In this issue, we’ll introduce you to more of the chefs, farmers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors in the San Joaquin Valley. Rocky Oats Goat Creamery prepares small-batch artisan farmstead cheese while their cats, dogs, rescue donkeys, cow, chickens and Nubian goats watch over the operation. Sweet Thistle Farms hosts dinners on their farm where they grow gorgeous flowers, veggies and fruits, and now is the perfect time to take a stroll through their pumpkin patch. Libelula Restaurant in Fresno is famous for its larger-than-life cinnamon roll, but it offers a menu full of imaginative specials that might turn you into a regular.

A sprinkle of cinnamon not only adds the taste of fall to your favorite pastry, dessert or tea, but it’s also good for you – packed with antioxidants, it’s said to reduce inflammation, lower blood sugar and potentially even reduce the risk of heart disease. Treat yourself to that snickerdoodle!

If you’re ready to spend a little time in the kitchen, we have some autumninspired recipes for appetizers, desserts and cocktails that will impress your friends and family. Check out our list of local farmers markets so you can start your next recipe with produce that doesn’t get any fresher. If you prepare something worth showing off, tag us @ediblesjv and you could be featured in our next issue.

“Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.” –

Harriet Van Horne

edible

SAN JOAQUIN VALLE Y

®

YVONNE MAZZOTTA publisher MICHELLE ADAMS publisher MONICA FATICA editor in chief KERRI REGAN copy editor BRENNA DAVID advertising sales representative www.ediblesjv.com 1475 Placer Street, Suites C & D Redding, CA 96001 530.246.4687 office 530.246.2434 fax Email General/Sales and Advertising information: info@ediblesanjoaquin.com

©2021 by Edible San Joaquin Valley Magazine.

All

rights

reserved.

Reproductions without permission are

strictly

prohibited.

Articles

and advertisements in Edible San Joaquin Valley Magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the

management,

employees,

or

freelance writers. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If an error is found, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us of the mistake. The businesses,

locations

and

people

mentioned in our articles are solely determined by the editorial staff and

Photo courtesy of Sweet Thistle Farm

are not influenced by advertising.

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FARMERS MARKETS —a quick look—

OLD TOWN CLOVIS FARMERS MARKETS Saturdays: 9-11:30am year round Located at Pollasky between 5th & Bullard Fridays: 5:30-8pm April-October Located at Pollasky between 3rd & 7th HARLAN RANCH FRESH MARKET Wednesdays (year round) 5-9pm.

1620 N. Leonard Ave., Clovis VISALIA FARMERS MARKETS Saturdays: 8-11:30am year round Located at Caldwell and Shady St. Kaweah Health Market on Wednesdays: 8 am-11:30am seasonal Located at the corner of Akers and Tulare DOWNTOWN VISALIA’S CERTIFIED FARMERS MARKET Thursdays 5-8:30pm, 4-7pm (after daylight savings) Church & Main, Beginning Sept. 23 RIVER PARK FARMERS MARKET Tuesdays 5-9pm / Saturdays 10am-3pm River Park Shopping Center, Nees and Blackstone 220 E Paseo del Centro, Fresno

THURSDAY NIGHT MARKET PLACE May through October 5-8pm Irwin & Seventh Streets, Hanford FORT WASHINGTON FARMERS MARKET Year round Sundays 9am-2pm / Wednesdays 5-9pm Riverview Shopping Center at Fort Washington and Friant Roads, across the street from the east entrance of Woodward Park, Fresno VINEYARD FARMERS MARKET Year round Wednesdays 3-6pm / Saturdays 7am-noon Rain or shine 100 West Shaw Ave., Fresno KERMAN FARMERS MARKET March through October 5-8pm Once per month on Wednesdays TESORO VIEJO FARMERS MARKET Year round Every other Sunday 9am-1pm In Tesoro Viejo Town Center Hwy 41 and Avenue 15/ Tesoro Viejo Blvd.

4150 Town Center Blvd., Madera

Contact us to have your Farmers Market added to this list: info@ediblesanjoaquin.com

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Rachel Trigueiro, wife, mom of four and writer, spends her days homeschooling, cooking and re-heating her coffee. As a child she dreamed of being a talk-show host and today sees others’ stories as a gift to be shared. When she’s not writing or dabbling in a creative venture, she loves spending time with her family.

Melissa Mendonca is a graduate of San Francisco State and Tulane universities.

She’s a lover of airports and road trips and believes in mentoring and service to create communities everyone can enjoy.

Her favorite words are rebar, wanderlust and change.

Yvonne Mazzotta is inspired by the need. A publisher, content creator, graphic designer and mother of three, she brings beauty to all that she does. Marketing manager for a queen bee operation, Yvonne is grateful for beekeepers and farmers who bring the foods we highlight to the family tables. Whether it’s feeding her curiosity or finding the right balance in a brand campaign you can guarantee, she’s on it!

Dakota Jacobi has been capturing love stories for three years, photographing families, seniors and couples. She aims to document the candid, organic, and “unposed” moments of life. Her mission is to not just take great pictures, but to build relationships and create experiences for her clients. When she’s not adventuring around California or editing in her favorite coffee shop, she spends her days at home with her two kids. www.dakotalynnphoto.com

Monica Fatica is queen of the juggle.

From editing community magazines to dabbling in the farming industry, there aren’t many tasks Monica won’t try.

When she isn’t running from job to job, the married mother of three is catching up with family and loving all over her fur babies. Her passion for helping others and the love for her community inspire her to contribute to spreading all the good happening in the valley.

Michelle Adams publisher, designer, photo-retoucher, accountant, wife and mother, she puts the M in multitasking.

Michelle brings the calm and steady to an often chaotic environment and is a force of great wisdom with a gift for color choice. She loves bringing the great stories to life within the pages of multiple publications through beautiful design. But her favorite thing to do is spending time with her husband and daughter.

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local & in season Fall Harvest

FRUIT, NUTS & SEEDS Asian Pears Almonds Apples Figs Grapes Kiwis Lemons Navel Oranges Olives Peaches Pecans Persimmons Pistachios Plums Pluots Pomegranates Raisin Grapes Walnuts

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FIELD CROPS Beans Clover Seeds Corn Cotton Potatoes Rice Sorghum Sugar Beets

VEGETABLE, BERRIES & MELONS Bok Choy Broccoli Cabbage Carrots Cauliflower Celery Lemon Grass Lettuce Limas Melons Onions Peas Pumpkins Snap Peas Squash Sweet Corn Sweet Potatoes/Yams Tomatoes Turnips

NEW & NOTABLE

Annesso Pizzeria

Fresno Street Eats

annessopizzeria.com

Find them on Facebook and Instagram The newly opened Annesso Pizzeria in North Fresno serves up modern pizza with an old-school technique and is the sister restaurant of The Annex Kitchen. You’ll find 12-inch pies inspired by traditional Italian and New York-style pizzas, salads, appetizers, soft serve ice cream along with an expansive bar that offers made-from-scratch cocktails.

Fresno Street Eats is the area’s food truck destination hosting a dozen pop-up locations throughout the week. You can visit their social media pages to find a spot near you. We especially enjoy their block parties in the Downtown Brewery District where they offer great music, great drinks and great vibes!

Tea Time Bake Shop

Cork & Knife Clovis

teatimebakeshop.wordpress.com

corknknife.com

Not only does this social media-based small business offer delicious made-toorder pies, pastries, cakes, cookies and breads but they also offer tea party planning services.

Follow them on Facebook or Instagram to keep an eye out for their holiday-themed treat boxes.

Located in Old Town Clovis is Cork & Knife’s newest boutique wine bar and tapas bar. This is the type of place you’ll want to go to slow down, relax and enjoy all the flavors while spending time with friends or your significant other. They also offer catering services and Sunday brunch.

Pacific Fried Chicken Co pacificfriedchicken.com

If you love fried chicken but want to experience new flavors, then you’ll want to add this new Fresno restaurant to your list of must tries. They serve up Asian double fried chicken wings, traditional fried chicken and chicken sandwiches paired with their made-from-scratch Pacific Asian sauces.

Don’t forget to indulge in their comfort food side dishes, too!

Sweet Girl Farms sweetgirlfarms.com

This year-round farmer operated farm stand is worth the drive to Reedley to find fresh-from-the-farm seasonal produce and a community feel, according to out-oftown visitors. The stand also offers jams, honey, salsas, nuts, dried fruit and fresh-cut flowers.

Photos sourced from Instagram and Facebook

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edible DRINK

S I G N AT U R E

Cocktails Apple Butter Old Fashioned Cocktail

ITEMS NEEDED • Cocktail shaker • Jigger or ounce measuring cup • Measuring cup and tablespoon • Your favorite old-fashioned style glass • Wide bowls or plates for dipping glass rim

INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1. Add sugar to the glass rim by dipping into some apple cider, then dipping into the sugar.

INGREDIENTS 1-2 T apple butter (amount based on sweetness preference) 2 oz. bourbon ¼ cup apple cider 2 splashes bitters (we used Angostura) Ice for shaker Sugar (use a course sugar, or a cinnamon sugar mix would work)

STEP 3. Shake to combine.

OPTIONAL Club soda (to cut sweetness) Ice for drink (we used sphere shaped) GARNISH IDEAS Sliced apple Star of anise Cinnamon stick Orange peel

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STEP 2. Add ice, apple butter, bourbon, apple cider and bitters into the cocktail shaker.

STEP 4. Add ice (optional) then pour shaker contents into your glass. Top with club soda (optional).

STEP 5. Garnish and enjoy!

Fig & Sage Cocktail ITEMS NEEDED • Cocktail shaker • Jigger or ounce measuring cup • Muddler • Measuring cup and sauce pan • Your favorite cocktail glass INGREDIENTS 2 figs plus more for garnish (we used mission figs) 2 oz. rum (we used white rum) 1 oz. Grand Marnier 1 oz. Sage Simple Syrup (see below) Juice from half a lemon Club soda Ice for shaker and for cocktail SAGE SIMPLE SYRUP INGREDIENTS 3 sage sprigs plus more for garnish 1 cup of sugar 1 cup of water

SAGE SIMPLE SYRUP INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1. Add water, sugar and sage sprigs to small saucepan.

STEP 2. Turn heat to medium-high and occasionally stir until it reaches a boil.

STEP 3. Turn off heat and let steep for 30-45 minutes.

STEP 4. Strain before using (can be made ahead of time and stored in fridge).

COCKTAIL INSTRUCTIONS STEP 1. Muddle figs in your cocktail shaker.

STEP 2. Add rum, Grand Marnier, sage simple syrup, lemon juice and ice to cocktail shaker then shake until combined.

STEP 3. Pour into cocktail glass and top with club soda.

STEP 4. Add some sage sprigs and figs for garnish and enjoy!

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MEET THE FARMER

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dreamy creamery Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery Story by Rachel Trigueiro

T

HE SAYING GOES, “Great cheese come from happy cows and happy cows come from

California.” But cows aren’t the only happy four-legged cheese makers in California. Right in the heart of the Central Valley are some very happy goats, producing really great cheese.

Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery offers small-batch artisan farmstead cheese from its dreamy creamery in Clovis. Margie and Joel Weber, the creamery’s partners, run a smooth operation with cats, dogs, rescue donkeys, a cow and chickens. But the beautiful Nubian goats are the real stars. Some might even say, royalty.

“We have a passion for taking care of our animals. It’s actually a joke how well we take care of them,” Margie says with a chuckle. “All the goats are named after a princess, country-western singer or other significant characters.” They are treated as such and wear a collar with their name.

Margie’s love for animals started long ago on her family’s cow dairy. After 40 years as a registered nurse, she returned to her roots on the farm and says the cheese is in honor of her parents’ Spanish and Dutch heritage. She takes pride in the high-quality cheese they produce, and also in the life they give their animals.4

continued on page 14

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“We breed them once a year and we’re always there whenever they kid. When a goat is no longer needed at the creamery, they retire to our home.” Just like one of the pets.

Most of the goats are related and enjoy the dynamics of mother-daughter relationships. The sisters know they are sisters and want to be milked together, six at a time. Goats like routine and they also have cliques. “When they go on the milking stand each day, they have their own order and you don’t change that,” Margie says.

When the goats first kidded, Margie began her life as a cheese maker. In September 2018, the Webers opened the creamery, with 14 goats milking from February to November. Now, for the first time, the creamery will be milking year-round with 25 goats milking daily.

“Goats can produce one gallon daily, which varies with time of the year,” Margie says. “We are currently producing 90 gallons a week or 360 per month. It takes one gallon of

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milk to make one pound of cheese. We have a batch vat pasteurizer which holds seven to 15 gallons at one time.

We use a bucket system for milking goats and store milk in 2.5-gallon cans for no longer than three days to make the cheese.”

Being a small-batch artisan farmstead means the creamery only uses its herd’s milk to make the cheese in traditional ways. “The only machine used is the vat since all our cheese is pasteurized for public safety. Our cheesemaking has many steps, which are done by hand.”

The creamery boasts eight varieties of cheese: three fresh, two ripened and three aged. The variety determines the time it takes to produce. For example, fresh cheese, like Princess Pride, takes three days from milk in a bucket to packaged up, ready to sell. Other cheeses, like gouda, take six months of aging before they are ready to go to market.

Margie starts her busy days at 5:30am. With a very full plate of goats and cheese, she is also gathering eggs from the chickens that were added to the farm last fall. Up to 100 different colored eggs are collected in a day and sold by the dozen, following the California egg safety standard.

The chickens are welcome, resourceful guests at the farm, eating the goats’ alfalfa scraps and leftover grain from the milking stands.

You can find the creamery’s cheese and eggs weekly at Vineyard Farmers Market in Fresno and buy cheese on Saturdays at the Visalia Farmer’s Market.

Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery offers the highest quality hand-crafted goat cheese because of the hard work and dedication from its team of interns, FFA students, artisans and producers. Plans for the future include opening the farm stand Mondays through Saturdays with increased items for cheese boards and farm-to-table meals. They also hope to host farm tours on Saturday mornings for the public and further develop their partnership with Sweet Thistle to expand U-Pick flowers, pumpkin patch and farm-to-table dinners. •

“We breed them once a year and we’re always there whenever they kid.

When a goat is no longer needed at the creamery, they retire to our home.”

Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery www.rockyoaksgoatcreamery.com Find them on Facebook and Instagram

Photos on this page courtesy of Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery

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FEATURED RECIPE

it’s the GOAT Goat Cheese Balls with Honey

INGREDIENTS:

8-10 oz. of goat cheese 2-3 T flour

1 egg, beaten

¾ cup Panko bread crumbs (regular bread crumbs will work) Honey for garnish

DIRECTIONS: STEP 1: Cut the goat cheese into 20-24 equal size pieces.

TEP 2: Roll each piece into S ball shapes and place onto plate.

TEP 3: Freeze pieces for 20-30 S minutes.

TEP 4: Add flour, beaten S egg and bread crumbs each into separate dishes.

TEP 5: Remove goat cheese S from freezer. Dip each one into (1st) flour, (2nd) egg, and (3rd) bread crumbs.

TEP 6: Add breaded goat S cheese balls into air fryer and spray with olive oil or non-stick cooking spray (oven can be used in lieu of air fryer).

TEP 7: Cook at 390 degrees S for 6-8 min, checking until desired crispness is reached (if using an oven, bake at 475 for approximately 8 min).

TEP 8: Transfer goat cheese S balls to a serving dish and drizzle with honey.

TEP 9: Let cool before S enjoying!

TIPS: Add crushed walnuts, pistachios, pecans or seasonings to the bread crumb mixture for added texture and flavor. Dried and chopped cranberries or apricots can be added to the goat cheese for added sweetness.

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BRADSHAW HONEY FARMS

Local Love For Local Honey RAW • UNFILTERED • FRESH

Sip. Stay. Savor. Play.

O ur S o uth Gate to Yo sem ite.

It ’s yo ur G e taway !

Spice pumpkin smoothie with Bradshaw Honey!

Visit www.idlehourwinery.com to book a room at the inn or reserve your table for a tasting or a meal at our kitchen.

LUNCH Thursday-Monday 12-4pm SUNDAY BRUNCH 10am-2pm WINE BAR Wednesday-Saturday 4-9pm

Shop Local.

Support Small Business.

Family owned and operated since 1958 @bradshawhoney www.beebotanical.com

www.queensinn.com

41139 Highway 41, Oakhurst Inn: 559-683-4354 Winery & Kitchen: 559-760-9090

falling for you

FRESH INGREDIENTS | UNIQUE COMBINATIONS | HOMEMADE SALSAS

edible

San Joaquin Valley tells the stories of the extraordinary farmers, ranchers,

cheesemakers, bakers, brewers, winemakers, chefs and other food and drink artisans in Fresno County and surrounding areas of the valley.

FALL in love with our Quesadillas at our Hanford location: 102 W Seventh St., Hanford

www.ediblesjv.com Email info@ediblesanjoaquin.com for more information.

W W W.Q U E S A D I L L AG O R I L L A .C O M

608 EAST WELDON AVE, FRESNO 102 W SEVENTH ST., HANFORD // 41119 SIERRA DR., THREE RIVERS

E A T. D R I N K . T H I N K .

On the following pages, we bring you the second in a series of thought leadership stories that span topics of sustainability, access to healthy foods and

local communities who are tireless champions in the battle against nutrition insecurity and hunger.

nutrition, restaurant revitalization and regenerative agriculture. These are

Dr. Frank says “the power of one can be huge,” and we could not agree

the values that Edible Communities, as an organization, has been devoted

more. One person, one organization, one community—each purpose driven,

to for the past two decades. Our work lends itself to the singular notion that

can massively impact our food system. We believe that every person should

excellent storytelling has the power to change lives, and that by exploring and

have access to a high-quality diet that is filled with nutritious foods that

elevating important conversations like these, we can effect everlasting change

are raised and grown using sustainable practices. As consumer advocates we

in our communities too.

all play a critical role in reshaping the demand for this, and we all must be

Please join us in supporting the work of our featured subjects—Michel

diligent in advancing this agenda if we are to ensure that no one is left behind.

Nischan, sustainable food advocate and co-founder of Wholesome Wave; and

Tracey Ryder

native food historian and chef, Dr. Lois Ellen Frank—two heroes from our

Co-Founder, Edible Communities

Chef Michel Nischan Photo courtesy of Wholesome Wave

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S E C T ION

R ET H I N K I N G H U N G E R Why Feeding Those in Need Must Focus on Nourishment

STORY

BY

Joy Manning

When anyone in a community struggles with food

equality. Communities of color and those living in poverty

insecurity, it’s everybody’s problem. In the United States

in the U.S. got sick from COVID-19 at a rate two to three

alone, an estimated $90 billion in excess healthcare costs

times higher than the rest of the country, according to the

annually are associated with food insecurity, according to

2020 Wholesome Wave impact report. The underlying rea-

research from the Sodexo Stop Hunger Foundation’s study

sons why aren’t specific to the pandemic. “Four of the Top

conducted by researchers affiliated with Harvard’s School

5 drivers of this disparity are obesity, diabetes, hyperten-

of Public Health, Brandeis University and Loyola Univer-

sion and heart disease,” says Nischan. These are all chronic

sity. The social and emotional toll hunger takes on commu-

conditions that can be prevented and often reversed by in-

nities is harder to quantify, but no less deeply felt.

creasing access to nutritious food.

But of course, for those personally experiencing food

Yet, when the foremost experts in hunger talk about

insecurity, the problems are impossible to ignore. For

hunger in terms of food security, it drives a cultural con-

those receiving SNAP (Supplemental Nutrition Assistance

versation that leads food banks to be well-stocked, but of-

Program) benefits, getting the most calories for their dollar

ten it’s with ultra-processed food. “It has to be about more

is likely at the forefront of their mind, and sometimes that

than getting meals on the table,” Nischan says.

means families eat more processed foods than they’d like.

To that end, Nischan and Wholesome Wave co-found-

Michel Nischan, a four-time James Beard Award-winning

er Gus Schumacher worked on a SNAP “doubling” pro-

chef and sustainable food movement leader, is working to

gram that makes every $1 a participant spends worth $2

change that. And for Wholesome Wave, the nonprofit he

when they buy produce. What began as a nascent pilot

founded in 2007, it is a primary goal.

program in Columbia, Md., in 2005 has since grown into

Wholesome Wave recently reset its priorities, in fact, and

a federally funded program started by Wholesome Wave

will now squarely focus on nutrition—not food—insecurity.

that helps more than 40 million people eat more greens

The goal is to change the way people think about hunger.

and less instant ramen.

The distinction between food security and nutrition

As part of Nischan’s shift to nutrition security, Whole-

security is a critical one, according to Nischan. Most

some Wave is also ramping up its Produce Prescription

North Americans have access to enough calories to avoid

Program. It’s an umbrella program that partners with lo-

hunger thanks to government programs, food banks and

cal organizations, such as hospitals and health clinics, to

hunger relief organizations. “This makes them technical-

empower doctors to write prescriptions for nutrient-dense

ly ‘food secure,’ but they’re still not getting the nutrition

fruits and vegetables, often local, that patients pick up

they need to be healthy,” says Nischan. “We aren’t solving

weekly, free of charge.

the real problem.

“It’s about people having the kind of diet that promotes good health and prevents disease,” he says. It’s also about

“Many people visit the doctor and hear, ‘If you don’t eat better, the next time I see you you’ll have type 2 diabetes,” says Nischan. His next big goal is securing Medicaid and

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Medicare funding for these programs so they become as common as prescriptions are for drugs. “Your insurance company will pay for a kidney transplant, but not the vegetables that can prevent the disease,” he says.

Piloted in 2010, the Produce Prescription Program is ambitious, but peer-reviewed research shows that it works. A 2017 study published in Preventive Medicine Reports showed that participation in the program helped

HUNGER BY THE NUMBERS The problem of food and nutrition insecurity across North America is incalculable, but these sobering statistics show that work still must be done to ensure everyone gets the nourishment they need to live a full life and prevent disease.

bring down participants’ A1C (a number that indicates one’s average blood sugar level). A 2012 study in the journal Public Health Nutrition showed produce prescriptions improve overall well-being.

I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S :

35 million Americans live in households that struggle with food and nutrition insecurity.

84 percent of households served by Feeding America, a network of food banks, say they buy cheap food instead of fresh food to ensure they’ll have enough to eat.

27.5 percent of households with kids are food and nutrition insecure.

19.1 percent of Black households and 15.6% of Hispanic households experience food and nutrition insecurity.

1 in 19 Americans relies on SNAP benefits.

Image courtesy of Wholesome Wave

This is not to say that Nischan believes Wholesome Wave has all the answers. From the beginning, Wholesome Wave has partnered with local organizations to bring ideas and funding to a collaboration that fits the specific needs of its community. “We don’t want to be the organization that rides into your town with our solution to your problem. Addressing nutrition insecurity is different in every community,” he says. And, as we know, paying attention to those differences is critical to finding solutions.

Continued...

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S E C T IO N

I N CA N A DA :

1 in 8 Canadian households faces food and nutrition insecurity.

1 in 6 Canadian children experiences food and nutrition insecurity.

In Ontario, 3,282,514 visits were made to food banks in 2019-2020.

Black and Indigenous people are 3 times more likely to be food and nutrition insecure than white people.

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edible

Communities

MARKETPLAC E

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S E C T IO N

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Dr. Lois Ellen Frank | Photo by Daphne Hougard

Indigenous communities, for example, live with some of

sauce. “These are ancestral foods that promote wellness,”

the highest rates of food and nutrition insecurity in North

she says. After the training, 32 families received the pre-

America. A study published in 2017 in the Journal of Hunger

pared dish, plus the recipe and the ingredients they’d need

& Environmental Nutrition found that from 2000 to 2010,

to make it themselves. “You think you aren’t teaching that

25% of American Indians and Alaska Natives were consis-

many people, but it’s a ripple effect,” she says. One family

tently food insecure. It’s a daunting statistic.

passes the information to another.

Dr. Lois Ellen Frank is a Santa Fe, N.M.-based chef

This passing of knowledge from one person to the next

and native food historian. She believes that the health and

can help keep food traditions alive. “It takes only one gen-

nutrition security of Indigenous communities (and all

eration for a recipe or a method of agriculture to disappear.”

communities for that matter) can best be served by put-

And preserving these recipes and traditions matters

ting attention and energy into solutions and not focusing

when it comes to solving the problem of food insecurity. A

on the problems. Frank would rather focus on concrete

2019 study published in the journal Food Security suggests

tasks she can do to help. “I’m a big advocate of the power

that tribal communities can achieve increased food secu-

of one person,” she says. She provides culinary training to

rity and better health outcomes if they have greater access

those who cook in community centers and schools to help

to their traditional foods and the ability to hunt, fish and

people reconnect with traditional foodways through native

preserve native foods.

plants and recipes.

Recently, she taught cooks in one school to make refried bean enchiladas with corn and zucchini in a red chili

For some, starting a nonprofit organization is a great way to make a difference. But, as Dr. Frank also reminds us, helping just one person can have an impact too. e

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FEATURED RECIPE

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the apple pie of your eye Favorite Apple Pie Recipe by Yvonne Mazzotta Rich, buttery crust and warm spiced apples will be a great start to the Autumn season.

FOR THE PIE CRUST:

DIRECTIONS PIE CRUST:

12 ⅓ 3 1 1 8 1

STEP 1: Cut the butter in small chunks along with the vegetable shortening and refrigerate.

T cold butter cup cold vegetable shortening cups flour tsp. salt T sugar T ice water egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water for egg wash

FOR THE FILLING:

4 pounds Granny Smith apples, peeled, quartered and sliced Zest of one lemon 2 T fresh, squeezed lemon juice ½ cup sugar plus 1 tablespoon to sprinkle on crust ¼ cup flour 1 tsp. salt ¾ tsp. cinnamon ½ tsp. ground nutmeg ½ tsp. ginger

STEP 2: Place the flour, salt, and sugar in a bowl or food processor and pulse a few times to mix. Add butter and shortening. Pulse 8-10 times, until the butter is the size of peas. While the machine is running, pour the ice water down the feed tube and pulse the machine until the dough begins to form a ball.

STEP 3: Place the dough on floured board and roll into a ball. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

STEP 4: Cut the dough in half and roll each piece on the floured board into a circle. Roll from the center to the edge adding flour to make sure it doesn’t stick.

Fold the dough in half and lay it in the pie dish then unfold to fit the pan. You will do the same fold technique with the top crust.

DIRECTIONS FILLING AND PIE: STEP 1: Cut apples in ¼ inch slices and combine in a bowl with the zest, juice, sugar, flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger.

STEP 2: Roll out half the pie dough and drape it over the pie pan to extend about ½ inch over the rim.

STEP 3: Fill the pie with the apple mixture. Brush the edges of the bottom crust with egg wash so the top crust will adhere.

STEP 4: Lay the top crust over the apple filling and trim the edges about an inch over the rim. Tuck the edges under the bottom crust and crimp the two together with your fingers. Brush the entire top crust with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar and cut at least four slits to provide venting for the steam while cooking.

STEP 5: Bake on cookie sheet for an hour, then check apples to see if they are tender.

Cook another 15 minutes if apples are still firm. Look for the crust to be brown and juices bubbling out. Best served warm with ice cream or fresh whipped cream.

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EDIBLE ENDEAVORS

Feast on the Farm Q&A with Sweet Thistle Farms

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Edible: Please tell us about Sweet Thistle Farms.

Sarah: Sweet Thistle is a small family farm in Clovis that grows 40 varieties of cut flowers, veggies and fruit and offers a fall pumpkin patch. My husband, Luke, and I are both fifth-generation farmers and enjoy growing and cultivating the land in the fertile soil of California. We offer Community Supported Agriculture boxes, farm stand, u-pick flowers and pumpkins, and we sell at local farmers markets.

Edible: How did hosting outdoor dinners on the farm come to be? Are they offered on a regular basis?

Sarah: We started the dinners to give people an opportunity to get out of the city to the farm, so they could enjoy the great view of the Sierra Nevadas and eat real food. Farm meals are a way to expose the community and customers to agriculture through food that is grown and produced here at the farm and Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery. We select chefs or caterers and work with them to create a seasonal menu using local food. The San Joaquin Valley is the number one producer of food; what an amazing blessing it is to not only see the fruit growing on the trees and have local dairies, but to know the actual farmers who grew your dinner. We mainly offer monthly farm dinners, but we host brunches too.

Edible: What items do you sell at your farm store?

Sarah: Our farm stand offers: Rocky Oaks Goat Creamery cheese, Ferry Farms orange juice, local honey, dried fruit and nuts, Seven Dot beef and bone broth, Tattered Farms goat soaps, lotions and candles, seasonal fresh fruit and veggies, flower arrangements, farm press cards and tea towels.

Edible: What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

Sarah: I’m a former demolition derby driver winner and love county fairs. You can always find me checking out the canning entries.

Edible: Can you tell us about some of the other guest experiences that are available at the flower farm?

Sarah: Sweet Thistle offers flower arrangement workshops, flower crown classes, Christmas wreath workshops in November. We take a small number of volunteers for “dirt therapy” Fridays, where they come out and help with farm chores and learn about the different aspects of flower farming. 4

continued on page 30

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Edible: Where can your flowers be found?

Sarah: You can find our flowers at the Visalia Farmers Market, the Vineyard Farmers Market, the Tesoro Viejo Farmers Market and at our farm stand on Tuesday and Thursdays. You can also visit our website to sign up for weekly and monthly boxes.

We also offer flowers for weddings and special events.

Edible: What’s on the horizon for Sweet Thistle Farms?

Sarah: We’re excited to expand our lavender from four rows to 20 rows this winter/spring. We will be offering a 2022 domestic club membership for a monthly meeting of workshops and classes, where people can learn useful skills like canning, flower designing, cast iron cleaning, soap making and cheese making. • Sweet Thistle Farm • www.sweetthistlefarms.com Find them on Facebook and Instagram

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EDIBLE TIP

Fall is in the air and it smells like cinnamon. Cinnamon is harvested from the inner bark of a small

Cinnamon

evergreen tree. This aromatic spice flavors a wide variety of sweet treats, from breakfast cereals to pastries (hello cinnamon rolls) and desserts, to a variety of hot drinks (pumpkin spice latte anyone?). And to top it off, it’s loaded with health benefits.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF CINNAMON Packed with antioxidants Anti-inflammatory properties May reduce the risk of heart disease Lowers blood sugar levels Helps fight bacterial and fungal infections Can reduce insulin resistance May have beneficial effects for:

Anyone who gives you a cinnamon roll fresh out of the oven is a friend for life.

-Lemony Snicket

•Neurodegenerative diseases like

Alzheimer’s and Parkinson’s

•Protecting against cancer

•Fighting HIV

WHERE TO USE Apple pie see recipe in this issue Snickerdoodle cookies soft and chewy, a tasty sweet treat Cinnamon tea warm and comforting on a brisk morning

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EDIBLE ENTREPRENEURS

On a Whim Libelula Restaurant in Fresno Story by Melissa Mendonca

HE NEARLY THREE-POUND CINNAMON ROLL for which people to flock to Libelula started out as an initial draw to the downtown Fresno restaurant when it opened in March 2019. “That wasn’t even something that was supposed to stay on the menu,” says Ian Cookson, the owner and head chef, with a laugh.

Yet stay it has, as an iconic staple of a menu that changes daily based on the season and Cookson’s whim.

“We’re not very easily described,” says Cookson. “We just make seasonal food that’s good. Most people come in for the specials.”

The specials are based on what’s available through local farms as well as what he has the mind to create. “One of the reasons I opened my own restaurant was so I could do that,” he says. There’s always a burger of the week, but what it will be, he says, is based on “whatever I’m inspired by over the week.”

Inspiration comes through the numerous relationships Cookson has with farmers throughout the Valley, many of which were developed during his time as head chef at The Vineyard Restaurant and Bar in Madera. “It was the place to go for most of the farmers,” says Cookson. “Halfway through a dinner service, a farmer would come in with a crate of something and say, ‘Do what you can with it.’” He thrived on the challenge and realized he wanted the opportunity to do something like that daily.

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“The whole reason I opened Libelula was to have that artistic input,” he adds. “It’s a creative outlet that I couldn’t do elsewhere.”

The restaurant boasts a few staples that, like the cinnamon roll, are fan favorites and aren’t going away. The Eggs Benedict features house-made porchetta and hollandaise sauce and is one of the most popular items on the menu. “We’ve been selling that since the day we opened and we sell a bunch of it every day,” says Cookson.

While he appreciates having a well-loved staple, he also thrives on being able to create Fig Toast as a special when figs are in season, using house-made sourdough, ricotta cheese, local figs, fresh herbs and caramelized onions.

“We try to make as much as we can in-house,” he adds, such as sauces and flavored butters.

Pastries come from his daughter, Ivy, who at a mere 19 years of age already has four years of experience baking with her dad. “She’s been my pastry chef since she was 15. She worked with me at The Vineyard, as well,” says Cookson. “I see in her what I had in me, but it was a lot easier to recognize it in her.

She’s going to be way more important than me some day.” Plans are in the works to open a store-front next door to their restaurant where patrons can purchase a variety of Ivy’s baked goods.4 continued on page 34

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“The whole reason I opened Libelula was to have that artistic input,” he adds. “It’s a creative outlet that I couldn’t do elsewhere.”

The whole family jumps in at Libelula, including Cookson’s partner, Kim Sarabian, who runs social media as well as the front of the house. “She’s the personality,” says Cookson. “She’s really good with people; she’s the one who makes people happy when they’re here.” Children Donavan, 15, Sebastian, 14, and Aris, 13, also help, often bussing or doing dishes.

While Libelula is a breakfast and lunch restaurant, they do make it a point to open during Art Hops, which will find people ordering in the middle of the night. “We’re on the side of the old Crest Theatre,” says Cookson, noting that his decision to locate in downtown Fresno was intentional. “It’s one of the nicest business communities I’ve ever been involved in. It’s growing every day. It’s changing, it’s evolving.”

Despite the setbacks of the COVID-19 pandemic, Cookson is proud that the restaurant has “rolled with all these punches” and is still around. He credits the support of the people of Fresno, and the farmers and farm workers who have supported him through thick and thin. “We’re still here,” he says. “We’re going to do our best to make it through.”

Libelula means dragonfly, and is a whimsical symbol for the family since Ivy was a little girl and pointed out that one had landed on her finger. “They just always seem to be around when we’re around,” Cookson says. Dragonflies bring joy to the family, as does the restaurant. “I’m happy that this is what I’m able to do to support my family,” says Cookson. Numerous fans agree. • Libelula • 1154 Broadway St., Fresno (559) 570-8180 Find them on Facebook and Instagram

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Every day is a good day to give thanks.

FAMILY OWNED AND OPERATED Mary’s Turkeys is proud to be family owned and operated since 1954. Mary’s sons, David and Ben Pitman, are thirdgeneration Pitman farmers who lead the company today.

Mary’s name is on these turkeys because they are raised the old-fashioned way.

Healthy for the turkeys and for the people who eat them!

Experience Mary’s many offerings. For store locations visit marysturkeys.com