Elie Saab
Narciso Rodriguez
Marc Jacobs
Michael Kors
Balmain
Chanel
Q
uestion: What’s black and white and great all over? Answer: Virtually every major look out there for spring/ summer 2013! ... and we do mean nearly EVERY terrific look that came down the runway, from Paris to London to Milan to New York (we show some of the best from those runways above) not to mention quite a few down under. As we first noted last issue, nothing will beat the sharp, classic, high-definition contrast of black and white in clothes and accessories this season. Beyond all the clichés such as ‘opposites attract’ or even ‘Ebony and Ivory living in total harm-on-y’, it’s ageless, timeless and suddenly looks so fresh, so modern, and just so RIGHT again after so many seasons of clashing colour and dizzying prints. What’s more, the options this season now stretch way beyond that predictable ‘white shirt/black skirt’ uniform. The newsworthy looks for you to sew on these six pages (and again, we are only showing you the very tip of the iceberg when it comes to the limitless possibilities) would never, ever be mistaken for a waiter’s costume. In fact, black and white can be applied to any look, anywhere, anytime. What’s more, the move to black and white will get even stronger into winter 2014, which definitely makes it something to watch. After all, as the rest of the world becomes a rather hazy, murky place, who wouldn’t love at least this sort of clarity in their closet? It’s no accident that this dynamic duo has long ago reached classic status, as it can be the best and easiest answer now to any pressing fashion question, such as how to mix prints, proportions or shapes. Wearing checks, stripes AND spots in one outfit may sound like a one-way ticket to mess city, but the clear-cut contrast of black and white effectively cleans up all that print mixing, so that it instead becomes a fun, fresh update to your casual everyday basics, such as that light spring-weight trenchcoat, easy jersey t-shirt and pants on the facing page (a slim pair of white or black pants or jeans could easily replace those side-striped pants for a more classic look).
BLACK & All the news in
14
Get The Look
Jean Paul Gaultier
Céline
Ralph Lauren
By Eddi Frantz
Trenchcoat – Vogue V8884 view B. Jersey top – New Look 6216. Pants – McCall’s ‘Fashion Star’ M6707 view B. Shoes – Pinup Couture at amazon.com. Watch – Pandora at Pandora.net Note: All accessories – similar styles available locally.
WHITE Runway photography: Firstview.com and GoRunway.com
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A
fter seasons (years!) of dress-and-cardigan softness, tailoring has once again become an important part of fashion, but as we showed with last season’s modernised pantsuits, it’s very different to the aggressive power suiting of yesteryear. If the look of suiting, however soft and relaxed it’s become, is still too much, breaking it up with black and white gives it the fresh, easy attitude of separates, but without sacrificing the elegant polish of a suit. In other words, you can have your tailoring and ease up, too! The key item this (and every) spring/summer – the white jacket. We admit, it won’t be the most practical item in your closet, or the easiest to keep clean, but nothing looks sharper or more elegant … and nothing makes all that black more wearable in warm weather. We show it in two distinct guises – on the facing page as a classic long-line shape, updated with a pair of printed pants (as we mentioned before, a small, geometric pattern on black is the easiest, most forgiving way to wear print on your lower half), and with contrasting black lapels added to the Vogue pattern’s shorter version at right for a fresh take on the tuxedo ‘Spencer’ jacket. Worn over a sleek dress that has a trompe l’oeil look of separates, this look is an unexpected twist on the traditional skirt suit and is as dressedup as black and white gets for day. What else now constitutes a ‘suit’? The old corporate-minded rules have long ago been abolished. A jacket doesn’t even have to be part of the equation anymore, especially when warm weather calls for a very specific sense of ease … an ease that’s beautifully delivered in a graphic white-banded cardigan (this and every season, a modern soft alternative to a jacket), over some classic menswear-style pants, as in the facing page’s inset sketch. It’s a pant style that is ALWAYS right no matter what fashion is doing, shown here last winter in a brightly coloured wool. In an ivory-hued cotton, linen, crepe or even a soft jersey, it may be the only touch of ’tailoring’ you need as spring turns to summer. Often thought of as too mumsy or too masculine, the tailored blouse, newly sleek and fitted to a woman’s curves has come back to fashion’s frontlines this spring with a vengeance. It makes a refreshing change from all those bare jersey knit tops of the last few years. Expect to see plenty of terrific options over the next few seasons, but to start off, go for a simple, sleeveless button-down in a classic gingham check. Top international designers such as Miuccia Prada have revived this picnic-table classic to become spring’s favourite check and it looks better than ever. It’s also a fresher, more unexpected partner to that classic cardigan and pants, as are some boldly patterned accessories such as a pair of animal-print shoes and a boldly striped tote. As we’ve noted before, a multitude of different patterns are mixed with ease when you’re just dealing with black and white. More inspirational ideas for mixing prints and spring’s hot stripes overleaf ...
SUITS: NOW AS SIMPLE AS 16
Get The Look (Main image) Jacket – Vogue V8887 view B. Bowed blouse – Simplicity 1779. Pants – Simplicity ‘Amazing Fit’ pants 1696. Hat – Collection XIIX at piperlime.gap.com Shoes – whitehouseblackmarket.com Vintage brooch – editor’s own (similar items on etsy.com) (Below) Cardigan – McCall’s M6708 view C. Sleeveless shirt – Butterick B6085. Pants – Vogue V8836. Belt – Ralph Lauren (selected outlets) Shoes – Manolo Blahnik Tote bag – Butterick B5842 ‘see & sew’ view B. (Opposite page) Jacket – Vogue V8887 view A. Dress – Vogue V8787 view F. Earrings – Chanel. Note: All accessories – similar styles available locally.
BLACK
AND WHITE
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ven though black and white is always elegant, they can also be a lot of fun, especially when exploring the infinite possibilities of how this dynamic duo looks in print.
In a season where most prints have sharpened their focus to clean, graphic effect, there’s nothing that beats a stripe, and those stripes never look cleaner, sharper or more graphic than in black and white. Just one striped piece will effectively update any outfit (and since stripes are on EVERYTHING this season, that piece is entirely up to you, even if it’s just a striped ballet flat or filmy scarf!). Don’t just think of the usual Breton stripes on that top or those not-quite-easy to wear bold ‘jailbird’ stripes however, as now there are so many ways to walk the line. The size and placement of those stripes can also be quite flattering. White ribbon-style ones can race around a simple black sheath dress as we show in the inset at right, effectively sharpening up the dress’s lines as well as slimming down your own. It’s also a very wearable update on the sometimes not-so-easy to wear colourblocking of the past few seasons. As noted earlier on, mixing several prints in black and white is a snap. The trick is to balance a feminine pattern (like the soft ethnic print on the dress on this page) with those crisp, graphic stripes, such as on the cardigan over it. Opposites DO attract, in print as well as in colour. Don’t be afraid of striping your lower half, as vertical stripes are of course an easy trick to visually lengthen and slim down that area. The easy menswear style pants we showed on the previous page are a warm-weather classic. They become something else entirely when they’re striped as shown in the main image on the facing page, and the mix of double and single black stripes makes those white pants more flattering to your figure than you may think (any type of irregular stripe would do the same thing, and even a classic black pinstripe is a wonderfully wearable option). Even though black and white loves mixing prints, keeping the pieces on top very simple and plain is a failsafe option if you’re going to wear such a bold stripe down below; the long-line black vest is not only very flattering if you’re a bit queasy about how your hips and thighs will look, but it’s also another great updater that can be thrown over anything, from a soft-skirted print dress to even your basic t-shirt and jeans. A final word about accessories: There will be a multitude of sharp black and white looks around this spring, and we accessorised these pages in only that colour scheme to emphasise the myriad possibilities, but one of the other great advantages of black and white is that they’re the perfect foil for any colour, from cool neutrals to hot brights, and even all the clear Lucite accessories that will be big this season. A highly textured natural tan brown belt, a brightly coloured shoe or bag, or some transparent Lucite jewellery can deliver just as much impact. Even though black and white is the look of the season, woman cannot live on monochrome alone.
Cardigan – McCall’s M6708 view B. Dress – McCall’s ‘Fashion Star’ M6700. Sandals – Lanvin at farfetch.com (similar styles available locally).
PRINTS & STRIPES TURN 18
Get The Look (Main image) Vest – Burda Style B7211 view A. Tank top – Kwik•Sew K3740 view B. Pants – Vogue V8836. Shoes – Chanel (Inset) Dress – Adapted from McCall’s M6699. Bangles – (chequerboard) Chamak by Priya Kakkar at cusp.com (striped) Fornash at simplysoles.com Shoes – Via Spiga. Earrings – Chanel. Note: All accessories – similar styles available locally.
SOFT SHAPES INTO STRONG STUFF 19